0:00:00 > 0:00:00- *
0:00:01 > 0:00:06- Wales is known the world over - for its magnificent scenery...
0:00:07 > 0:00:10- ..but its history - goes back centuries.
0:00:11 > 0:00:14- This tradition - goes back thousands of years.
0:00:15 > 0:00:16- How hard can it be?
0:00:18 > 0:00:23- History, ghost stories and legends - are steeped in these stones.
0:00:25 > 0:00:29- In this programme, - we're in the Newcastle Emlyn area.
0:00:29 > 0:00:34- Carmarthenshire, Ceredigion - and Pembrokeshire all meet up here.
0:00:34 > 0:00:37- The River Teifi - snakes between them...
0:00:38 > 0:00:40- ..sometimes a border...
0:00:40 > 0:00:45- ..and sometimes linking the crafts - and traditions that define us.
0:00:48 > 0:00:52- I've wanted to come here for years, - and I can't believe I'm here.
0:01:09 > 0:01:11- It's a special part of Wales...
0:01:12 > 0:01:15- ..of rolling hills and wide valleys - in every direction.
0:01:16 > 0:01:21- Castles, wars, - fiery dragons and bloody battles.
0:01:21 > 0:01:24- They're all part - of the unique Emlyn district.
0:01:25 > 0:01:30- That's alongside living traditions, - a revival of local crafts...
0:01:30 > 0:01:32- ..and one eye always on the future.
0:01:32 > 0:01:34- This is our habitat.
0:01:43 > 0:01:46- The main town is Newcastle Emlyn...
0:01:47 > 0:01:50- ..although the castle - isn't all that new.
0:01:51 > 0:01:53- It was built about 800 years ago...
0:01:54 > 0:01:59- ..to replace the old one, - a few miles downriver.
0:01:59 > 0:02:03- The castle, and the river, - of course, are still here.
0:02:05 > 0:02:08- We're on the northern side - of Newcastle Emlyn.
0:02:09 > 0:02:12- The River Teifi is there, - and we're in a different county.
0:02:13 > 0:02:18- I grew up here in Adpar as a child, - in Cardiganshire, now Ceredigion.
0:02:18 > 0:02:20- So, this side - is the village of Adpar?
0:02:21 > 0:02:26- It's Adpar now, but many years ago, - it was called Trefhedyn.
0:02:26 > 0:02:30- There were two pubs here, - a corner shop, everything.
0:02:30 > 0:02:33- I even went to primary school here.
0:02:33 > 0:02:36- Although you lived here, - in a different county...
0:02:36 > 0:02:41- ..did you still consider yourself - to be Newcastle Emlyn people?
0:02:41 > 0:02:46- Definitely, and if we went away - and were asked where we were from...
0:02:46 > 0:02:49- ..we'd always say Adpar - in Newcastle Emlyn.
0:02:49 > 0:02:51- It was - an important part of the town.
0:02:52 > 0:02:55- We're Adpartonians, - a special breed.
0:02:55 > 0:02:56- Special!
0:03:08 > 0:03:10- We're by the river now.
0:03:10 > 0:03:13- It's like an artery for the area.
0:03:13 > 0:03:15- Yes, definitely.
0:03:16 > 0:03:20- It flows down from the Teifi Pools, - up near Tregaron...
0:03:20 > 0:03:24- ..and powers several mills en route.
0:03:24 > 0:03:28- Woollen mills, and some - that generated electricity...
0:03:28 > 0:03:30- ..like the one in town years ago.
0:03:30 > 0:03:33- Back in the 1800s, - the Cawdor estate this side...
0:03:34 > 0:03:37- ..and the Fitzwilliam estate - on the other worked together...
0:03:38 > 0:03:41- ..to run water to the mills...
0:03:41 > 0:03:46- ..but also to maintain - an open flow for salmon.
0:03:46 > 0:03:49- Salmon fishing - was important at that time.
0:03:50 > 0:03:54- As children, - we crossed from Adpar there.
0:03:54 > 0:03:58- There was a wooden footbridge - which is sadly no longer there.
0:03:58 > 0:04:01- We'd cross the bridge - to that island there.
0:04:02 > 0:04:05- When we were naughty, - we'd cross these falls...
0:04:06 > 0:04:10- ..over to Carmarthenshire, - to the castle.
0:04:10 > 0:04:15- It was a big adventure, - many happy childhood memories.
0:04:28 > 0:04:30- How would you describe the town?
0:04:30 > 0:04:33- How would you describe the town?- - Newcastle Emlyn is a unique town.
0:04:34 > 0:04:37- The market's been important - for years, and remains so.
0:04:37 > 0:04:42- The market in town, attracting - the surrounding rural communities...
0:04:43 > 0:04:45- ..to sell livestock.
0:04:45 > 0:04:48- Capel Iwan, Talgarreg, - Beulah, Ffostrasol...
0:04:48 > 0:04:51- ..feed the town with Welshness.
0:04:51 > 0:04:54- It's nice to see - local young people...
0:04:55 > 0:05:00- ..setting up new businesses - and promoting the language here.
0:05:00 > 0:05:02- It's very nice to see.
0:05:05 > 0:05:09- So, a traditional rural area - with a seemingly quiet market town.
0:05:10 > 0:05:15- But the Emlyn district - does harbour darker stories...
0:05:15 > 0:05:18- ..from medieval times - to the present day.
0:05:19 > 0:05:24- I'm walking through Adpar, - with Newcastle Emlyn behind me.
0:05:24 > 0:05:27- This part of the village - has an unusual name...
0:05:28 > 0:05:31- ..which ties in - with several bloody tales.
0:05:33 > 0:05:36- I'm making my way to Bryndioddef - - the hill of suffering.
0:05:37 > 0:05:39- During the Civil War, - Cromwell's men...
0:05:40 > 0:05:44- ..killed every local soldier - after blowing up the castle.
0:05:44 > 0:05:49- Apparently, he executed some of them - and their heads rolled downhill...
0:05:49 > 0:05:52- ..and that's how Bryndioddef - got its name.
0:05:55 > 0:05:58- Some bloody tales - belong to distant history...
0:05:59 > 0:06:02- ..but there are also - more recent chilling events.
0:06:04 > 0:06:06- It doesn't look much, I know...
0:06:07 > 0:06:10- ..but I'm standing - on something very unexpected.
0:06:10 > 0:06:12- A nuclear bunker.
0:06:13 > 0:06:17- I'm going to do something - not many get the chance to do.
0:06:19 > 0:06:23- From the 1950s to the early '90s, - throughout the Cold War...
0:06:23 > 0:06:27- ..there were similar bunkers - all over the UK...
0:06:27 > 0:06:33- ..to gauge the effects of a nuclear - bomb should one strike nearby.
0:06:34 > 0:06:37- It's a good job - I'm not scared of spiders.
0:06:41 > 0:06:43- There's a lot of water down here.
0:06:45 > 0:06:50- Volunteers were trained to measure - a nuclear bomb's side effects...
0:06:50 > 0:06:53- ..from this room, - 15 feet underground...
0:06:53 > 0:06:56- ..with a concrete floor, - walls and roof...
0:06:57 > 0:07:00- ..between seven inches - and a foot thick.
0:07:00 > 0:07:05- This is when they expected the end - of the world, 23 minutes to three.
0:07:07 > 0:07:12- I don't want to spend another minute - here, let alone having to work here.
0:07:14 > 0:07:15- Horrible.
0:07:16 > 0:07:19- Such places haven't been closed - for all that long.
0:07:19 > 0:07:22- This is what they looked like - underground.
0:07:23 > 0:07:27- A ladder to climb down, - a bunk to sleep two persons...
0:07:28 > 0:07:30- ..and monitoring equipment.
0:07:30 > 0:07:34- We're only talking - about the 1980s and 1990s here.
0:07:34 > 0:07:36- Very recent history.
0:07:36 > 0:07:41- We can only hope that we'll never - have to use such places again.
0:07:52 > 0:07:55- The Teifi is one - of Wales' prettiest rivers...
0:07:56 > 0:08:00- ..from its source - in the Cambrian Mountains...
0:08:00 > 0:08:04- ..to the dolphins - in its estuary on Cardigan Bay.
0:08:04 > 0:08:08- It also runs the length - of the Emlyn district...
0:08:08 > 0:08:10- ..and draws the area together.
0:08:10 > 0:08:14- But even on this short stretch - of river, stories abound.
0:08:20 > 0:08:24- One man knows this stretch of the - river like the back of his hand.
0:08:25 > 0:08:28- He's also familiar - with the river's characters...
0:08:29 > 0:08:33- ..including a local man - who was quite a fisherman...
0:08:33 > 0:08:36- ..and also something of a poet.
0:08:37 > 0:08:43- William Griffiths' bardic name - was Gwilym Gloff Glan Teifi.
0:08:43 > 0:08:46- He wrote articles and poems...
0:08:46 > 0:08:50- ..for a magazine - called Seren Gomer...
0:08:51 > 0:08:53- ..back in the 1800s.
0:08:53 > 0:08:58- Someone showed me a poem of his - and it wasn't that great.
0:08:58 > 0:09:03- He should have stuck to fishing, - I'm telling you.
0:09:03 > 0:09:04- This is where he caught salmon.
0:09:04 > 0:09:07- This is where he caught salmon.- - He had the rights to this stretch.
0:09:07 > 0:09:13- He was one of the last - with rights to use a spoon net.
0:09:14 > 0:09:17- He'd cast it into this pool - to catch large fish.
0:09:19 > 0:09:24- Someone had carved a niche - in the rock where he could stand...
0:09:24 > 0:09:26- ..and it's still visible now.
0:09:28 > 0:09:32- Fishermen from the past - have left us more than that...
0:09:33 > 0:09:37- ..including names for pools - that are steeped in history.
0:09:38 > 0:09:39- What's this place called?
0:09:39 > 0:09:41- What's this place called?- - Pwll Defaid - sheep pool.
0:09:41 > 0:09:44- This is where - they used to dip sheep.
0:09:44 > 0:09:48- Local farmers - bought their sheep here...
0:09:48 > 0:09:51- ..to dip them, to wash the wool.
0:09:51 > 0:09:55- The sheep were driven - over the bridge to this point.
0:09:55 > 0:10:00- It's called Flat Rock today, - but it was Pwll Defaid years ago.
0:10:00 > 0:10:02- They washed the sheep here.
0:10:03 > 0:10:06- The flock was driven around - three times.
0:10:06 > 0:10:09- The sheep had to swim - from this side to the far side.
0:10:09 > 0:10:11- This photo shows everything.
0:10:11 > 0:10:13- This photo shows everything.- - There are boats in the water here.
0:10:14 > 0:10:16- They're coracles, - one is my Uncle Wil's.
0:10:16 > 0:10:20- That's either Jac or John Trevor.
0:10:20 > 0:10:25- John Trevor used to dip sheep, - but he gave it up.
0:10:26 > 0:10:29- A sheep jumped into his coracle...
0:10:29 > 0:10:32- ..and it went a bit topsy-turvy!
0:10:32 > 0:10:33- ..and it went a bit topsy-turvy!- - A fight broke out!
0:10:34 > 0:10:38- I was dipping a flock one day - when a sheep got into trouble.
0:10:39 > 0:10:45- I got her to the bank down there, - but she was on her last legs.
0:10:46 > 0:10:50- I was rubbing her, - applying pressure and so on.
0:10:50 > 0:10:51- Massage?
0:10:51 > 0:10:52- Massage?- - That's right.
0:10:52 > 0:10:56- Wil came over and said, - "Why are you doing that?
0:10:56 > 0:10:59- "Today's method is mouth-to-mouth!"
0:11:00 > 0:11:01- Then I had to listen to him...
0:11:02 > 0:11:04- BLOWING SOUND
0:11:04 > 0:11:07- ..blowing into the sheep's mouth.
0:11:07 > 0:11:11- He was such a blaggard, - I couldn't raise any doubts.
0:11:12 > 0:11:15- But there we go, these things pass.
0:11:20 > 0:11:20- .
0:11:23 > 0:11:23- Subtitles
0:11:23 > 0:11:25- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:11:27 > 0:11:30- Esgair, Bargoed and Bran streams...
0:11:30 > 0:11:35- ..converge here at Drefach Felindre.
0:11:36 > 0:11:41- They once powered 24 woollen mills - in this village alone.
0:11:42 > 0:11:46- This skilled art - is still practised at Melin Teifi.
0:11:46 > 0:11:50- It was once one of Wales' - most important industries.
0:12:00 > 0:12:04- I started here with a summer job - while I was at college.
0:12:05 > 0:12:10- The manager at the time, Mr Willden, - asked if I'd like to stay on.
0:12:10 > 0:12:14- In the meantime, - I had met Diane, my wife upstairs.
0:12:15 > 0:12:16- You keep her upstairs!
0:12:16 > 0:12:18- You keep her upstairs!- - Yes, upstairs.
0:12:19 > 0:12:23- We both worked together - for many years here...
0:12:23 > 0:12:25- ..until it closed in 1980.
0:12:26 > 0:12:30- I then asked Brian, - who worked here at the time...
0:12:30 > 0:12:32- ..he's my foreman here now...
0:12:32 > 0:12:36- ..if he'd like to carry on, - and we tried to open up ourselves.
0:12:36 > 0:12:40- There were so many woollen mills - in this one village.
0:12:41 > 0:12:43- That's right.
0:12:43 > 0:12:48- What is it about the area - that created so much industry?
0:12:48 > 0:12:52- Three streams - run through the village.
0:12:53 > 0:12:58- They're important because you needed - power to drive the machinery.
0:12:59 > 0:13:02- A few started - and others then followed suit.
0:13:02 > 0:13:08- The same water, the same river, - could turn several wheels.
0:13:08 > 0:13:13- The industry fell into decline - in the 1980s. Why was that?
0:13:13 > 0:13:19- In my opinion, duvets came in - and blankets weren't necessary.
0:13:19 > 0:13:23- They became very popular, - and cost became a concern.
0:13:24 > 0:13:25- It's turned around now...
0:13:26 > 0:13:29- ..and demand for traditional - Welsh blankets is back.
0:13:30 > 0:13:32- There's plenty of work about now.
0:13:32 > 0:13:36- To be honest, this factory - could be twice the size.
0:13:36 > 0:13:41- But I'm getting on now, and I don't - need to work any harder than I do.
0:13:44 > 0:13:48- While the weaver creates - traditional Welsh patterns...
0:13:49 > 0:13:54- ..sewing and dispatching orders - across the globe goes on upstairs.
0:13:57 > 0:13:58- I'm sewing shirts.
0:14:00 > 0:14:04- A lot of people buy them - because it's our special pattern.
0:14:05 > 0:14:09- Americans often, - and this one's going to Germany.
0:14:09 > 0:14:12- What's Raymond like as a boss?
0:14:12 > 0:14:14- What's Raymond like as a boss?- - He's alright.
0:14:17 > 0:14:19- I'm up here and he's down there.
0:14:20 > 0:14:22- What's this here?
0:14:22 > 0:14:26- That was my wage packet - when I started here, 53 years ago.
0:14:26 > 0:14:29- 3, 18 shillings and eightpence.
0:14:30 > 0:14:32- I don't get much more now!
0:14:38 > 0:14:43- This is the wide loom, - used to make blankets and quilts.
0:14:43 > 0:14:46- We're looking at the programme...
0:14:46 > 0:14:50- ..that tells the weaver - what the loom is doing.
0:14:51 > 0:14:56- Every pulley raises a harness, - and heads cross between them.
0:14:56 > 0:14:59- There's a small chain there.
0:14:59 > 0:15:04- That tells the weaver at any time - what colour is being woven in.
0:15:05 > 0:15:07- That's how you get the pattern.
0:15:08 > 0:15:09- Do they still make looms?
0:15:09 > 0:15:11- Do they still make looms?- - No, they're not made any more.
0:15:11 > 0:15:15- They stopped for good in 1967, - and you can't get spare parts now.
0:15:15 > 0:15:20- All we have is what we've collected - down the years...
0:15:20 > 0:15:23- ..or what you can steal - off another weaver!
0:15:29 > 0:15:34- Weaving and coracles aren't - the only rural crafts around here.
0:15:41 > 0:15:44- The process is the same - as when my mother did it.
0:15:45 > 0:15:48- Of course, she did it - on a small scale.
0:15:49 > 0:15:55- But the process is all done by hand, - and it's nice that it continues...
0:15:55 > 0:15:57- ..without any modern machinery.
0:15:59 > 0:16:03- Mam made Caerphilly cheese, - more than anything.
0:16:04 > 0:16:08- But she never sold any, - because we only had two cows.
0:16:17 > 0:16:23- The main reason we started Caws - Cenarth was because of milk quotas.
0:16:24 > 0:16:28- Some farmers were pouring milk - into the gutter.
0:16:32 > 0:16:36- But I'd been raised - too close to Ceredigion to do that!
0:16:43 > 0:16:46- It's nice because you can - forget about everything else.
0:16:47 > 0:16:50- You're completely focused - on making the cheese.
0:16:53 > 0:16:58- I think I'm still learning, - even after 30 years.
0:16:58 > 0:17:00- It's a fairly complicated process.
0:17:02 > 0:17:05- But it's nice - to continue the old ways.
0:17:11 > 0:17:15- If you gave six people - the same recipe...
0:17:16 > 0:17:20- ..the cheese they made - would turn out totally different.
0:17:22 > 0:17:27- Whoever makes the cheese - puts a piece of themselves into it.
0:17:31 > 0:17:36- I firmly believe that the best thing - you can add to cheese is love.
0:17:44 > 0:17:48- Cenarth Falls are among - the most popular falls in Wales...
0:17:48 > 0:17:51- ..to be painted or photographed, - and you can see why.
0:17:52 > 0:17:55- It's also home - to the National Coracle Centre.
0:17:55 > 0:18:01- It keeps alive a tradition that - goes back maybe thousands of years.
0:18:04 > 0:18:09- The annual river festival - is built on this tradition.
0:18:09 > 0:18:13- But in order to take part, - I need to know a bit more.
0:18:16 > 0:18:17- This is a Teifi coracle.
0:18:17 > 0:18:21- They have different shapes - on different rivers.
0:18:21 > 0:18:25- My great-grandfather - apparently made them...
0:18:25 > 0:18:28- ..and fished on the River Neath, - a long time ago.
0:18:29 > 0:18:30- Would they be a different shape?
0:18:30 > 0:18:34- Would they be a different shape?- - Yes, every river was different.
0:18:34 > 0:18:36- But that was before my time!
0:18:36 > 0:18:39- Long before your time.
0:18:39 > 0:18:41- You're a young man - to be in a coracle.
0:18:42 > 0:18:43- I grew up with them.
0:18:44 > 0:18:45- My father had one.
0:18:45 > 0:18:47- And you're continuing the tradition.
0:18:47 > 0:18:49- And you're continuing the tradition.- - Yes, I have my own licence.
0:18:49 > 0:18:51- So, I go out myself now.
0:18:51 > 0:18:54- How were these made traditionally?
0:18:54 > 0:18:56- Cow hide, initially.
0:18:56 > 0:18:57- Cow hide, initially.- - Cow hide?
0:18:57 > 0:19:00- It's like a basket, in a way.
0:19:00 > 0:19:02- What's the wood?
0:19:02 > 0:19:04- What's the wood?- - It's willow, soaked for a year.
0:19:04 > 0:19:07- That makes it pliable enough - to weave into a basket.
0:19:08 > 0:19:12- That's covered with canvas - and painted with bitumen.
0:19:12 > 0:19:14- And that keeps the water out.
0:19:14 > 0:19:15- And that keeps the water out.- - Or it should.
0:19:16 > 0:19:18- Yes, it should be waterproof.
0:19:18 > 0:19:22- But a coracle - is useless on dry land.
0:19:22 > 0:19:25- As the competitors are arriving...
0:19:25 > 0:19:28- ..and as I've agreed to race, - I need a lesson.
0:19:28 > 0:19:32- One foot in one corner, - one foot in the other corner.
0:19:32 > 0:19:35- Sit in the middle - or you'll tip over.
0:19:35 > 0:19:37- I don't want to tip over.
0:19:37 > 0:19:38- And you're away.
0:19:40 > 0:19:42- And I just rotate the paddle.
0:19:42 > 0:19:44- Can I turn around?
0:19:44 > 0:19:46- Turning's easy.
0:19:47 > 0:19:49- What isn't easy is going forwards.
0:19:49 > 0:19:52- Keep rotating the paddle.
0:19:52 > 0:19:55- You have to turn the blade as well.
0:19:56 > 0:19:57- Now, you're moving.
0:19:57 > 0:20:00- I am moving, but it's difficult.
0:20:00 > 0:20:01- I am moving, but it's difficult.- - Come towards me.
0:20:01 > 0:20:03- There we are.
0:20:04 > 0:20:05- Oh, I see.
0:20:05 > 0:20:06- You've got it.
0:20:08 > 0:20:12- How do you think I'll do - in the race this afternoon?
0:20:12 > 0:20:15- Do you have any words of advice?
0:20:15 > 0:20:17- You'll do alright, I think.
0:20:18 > 0:20:23- The river's flowing fairly quickly, - so that will help you out.
0:20:23 > 0:20:24- It'll help me, then.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27- It'll help me, then.- - Yes, but I don't think you'll win.
0:20:28 > 0:20:33- I don't expect to win, I just want - to stop before reaching Cardigan!
0:20:33 > 0:20:35- Stop in Cenarth and you'll be fine.
0:20:46 > 0:20:50- Five miles upriver from Cenarth - is Llandyfriog church.
0:20:51 > 0:20:57- Settling an argument with a sword - or gun was once fairly common.
0:20:57 > 0:21:01- There are records of at least - a thousand such duels in Britain.
0:21:01 > 0:21:05- The remains of one losing duellist - lie in this churchyard.
0:21:07 > 0:21:10- Thomas Heslop - was from the West Indies.
0:21:10 > 0:21:16- In 1814, he became the last man - to die in a duel in Wales.
0:21:17 > 0:21:21- The row was between Heslop - and local solicitor John Beynon.
0:21:21 > 0:21:23- After a day's hunting...
0:21:23 > 0:21:26- ..and a few pints - at the Old Salutation in Adpar...
0:21:26 > 0:21:28- ..things went from bad to worse.
0:21:29 > 0:21:33- Two days later, on 10 September, - the pair met in this field.
0:21:34 > 0:21:38- They should have taken ten paces - before turning and firing...
0:21:39 > 0:21:42- ..but John Beynon - only took five paces.
0:21:43 > 0:21:48- He turned, fired his gun - and Thomas Heslop died instantly.
0:21:49 > 0:21:52- That was the last duel - to take place in Wales.
0:21:54 > 0:21:58- John Beynon got away with a fine, - but he was no longer welcome here.
0:21:59 > 0:22:02- He fled to America and disappeared.
0:22:03 > 0:22:07- But local people - still remember Thomas Heslop.
0:22:07 > 0:22:10- The winners don't always - write the history books.
0:22:17 > 0:22:22- Most of us have probably slept - under a traditional Welsh quilt...
0:22:23 > 0:22:28- ..without truly considering the work - it takes to weave such patterns...
0:22:28 > 0:22:33- ..or that the patterns have been - handed down through the generations.
0:22:34 > 0:22:38- Melin Teifi - sells traditional clothes...
0:22:38 > 0:22:42- ..and patterns - like Caernarfon and Dyffryn...
0:22:43 > 0:22:48- ..next door to the workshop, - a living exhibit of an industry...
0:22:48 > 0:22:51- ..that has shaped this area - for centuries.
0:22:51 > 0:22:54- These machines are so big...
0:22:55 > 0:22:58- ..yet they turn out - such detailed patterns.
0:22:58 > 0:23:03- Every head that comes through - from the ladder at the back...
0:23:03 > 0:23:07- ..runs through an eyelet - that moves up and down...
0:23:07 > 0:23:10- ..and through those slots here.
0:23:10 > 0:23:13- They control - the width of the fabric.
0:23:13 > 0:23:19- I think there are four in each - of those, and six of those per inch.
0:23:19 > 0:23:24- That's 24 threads per inch - across from here to there.
0:23:24 > 0:23:25- It's so detailed.
0:23:25 > 0:23:27- It's so detailed.- - Yes, it is.
0:23:27 > 0:23:30- When you see the completed fabric...
0:23:31 > 0:23:34- ..you appreciate them so much more.
0:23:41 > 0:23:44- How long have you - been doing this, Ken?
0:23:44 > 0:23:48- Oh, it's about 50 years, 1956.
0:23:48 > 0:23:52- I saw you working on this, - the Caernarfon pattern.
0:23:52 > 0:23:54- Is it still as popular as ever?
0:23:54 > 0:23:55- Is it still as popular as ever?- - Yes, it is.
0:23:55 > 0:23:58- It's hard to believe - it's still going.
0:23:58 > 0:24:00- I'm fed up of looking at it!
0:24:01 > 0:24:04- But, clearly, not everyone is.
0:24:05 > 0:24:06- How do you measure it?
0:24:06 > 0:24:10- You have to know exactly - where one ends and one begins.
0:24:11 > 0:24:13- What I do is insert this...
0:24:14 > 0:24:17- ..and keep going - until I get to the end.
0:24:17 > 0:24:21- This mark here means - that a single quilt has been done.
0:24:22 > 0:24:26- When it gets to here, - I have a double quilt.
0:24:27 > 0:24:31- Then you turn the fringe - and start again.
0:24:31 > 0:24:33- You'd better get back to work.
0:24:33 > 0:24:35- You'd better get back to work.- - Yes, probably.
0:24:35 > 0:24:37- You carry on - and I'll measure for you.
0:24:38 > 0:24:39- Hold onto it tightly!
0:24:49 > 0:24:53- Watching you at work, - I can see how satisfying it is...
0:24:53 > 0:24:58- ..for you to be making a living - from something that you love doing.
0:24:58 > 0:24:59- That's true enough.
0:25:00 > 0:25:04- We have been through - a difficult period...
0:25:04 > 0:25:06- ..but things have picked up.
0:25:06 > 0:25:10- Demand is high - for traditional products.
0:25:10 > 0:25:13- They're back in fashion, - without a doubt.
0:25:13 > 0:25:17- The orders we have coming in...
0:25:18 > 0:25:21- ..prove that there's enough work - to be going on with.
0:25:21 > 0:25:23- I hope that continues.
0:25:32 > 0:25:36- At its peak, the woollen industry - was driven by the power of water.
0:25:37 > 0:25:40- That's celebrated - on a short stretch of the Teifi...
0:25:40 > 0:25:42- ..in Cenarth annually.
0:25:46 > 0:25:51- The Cenarth River Festival - has activities for the whole family.
0:25:51 > 0:25:56- But there's one main attraction, - and I'm proud to be taking part.
0:26:08 > 0:26:10- It's a river festival...
0:26:10 > 0:26:14- ..and as such, the activities - are focused on the river.
0:26:14 > 0:26:18- There are coracles every year, - kayaks have since come in.
0:26:18 > 0:26:23- They come here because we want - to do things on the river.
0:26:23 > 0:26:25- There are a lot of tourists here.
0:26:26 > 0:26:29- I suppose some come - especially to see the coracles.
0:26:29 > 0:26:34- A lot of people do come for that, - some for the whole weekend.
0:26:35 > 0:26:39- The river - is the focus of the festival.
0:26:55 > 0:27:01- As the crowds gathered on the banks, - I had just one thing on my mind.
0:27:01 > 0:27:03- The great coracle race.
0:27:04 > 0:27:08- Would I remember anything - from my lesson with Matthew?
0:27:08 > 0:27:10- Get in and get comfortable.
0:27:11 > 0:27:12- I'm fine now.
0:27:12 > 0:27:13- I'm fine now.- - Happy?
0:27:46 > 0:27:50- Well, the race is over - and I'm still alive.
0:27:50 > 0:27:53- That's the main thing, - for me and my family!
0:27:53 > 0:27:58- The water was moving quickly, - or it seemed to from here.
0:27:58 > 0:28:02- But once I got in the boat - and went out into midstream...
0:28:02 > 0:28:05- ..where I thought - I'd be carried along quickly...
0:28:05 > 0:28:08- ..it hardly moved at all.
0:28:08 > 0:28:11- The experienced coraclers - sped along...
0:28:11 > 0:28:15- ..while I was still - under the bridge like a fool!
0:28:15 > 0:28:19- But the crowd was very supportive.
0:28:20 > 0:28:23- It wasn't too bad, - and you only learn from experience.
0:28:28 > 0:28:28- .
0:28:33 > 0:28:33- Subtitles
0:28:33 > 0:28:35- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:28:41 > 0:28:45- A stone's throw - from Newcastle Emlyn is Henllan...
0:28:45 > 0:28:48- ..one of the prettiest areas - along the Teifi.
0:28:49 > 0:28:53- But as you can imagine, the scenery - doesn't tell the whole story.
0:28:53 > 0:28:57- I'll take you back to a time - when this area, like many others...
0:28:58 > 0:29:00- ..was under the shadow of war.
0:29:05 > 0:29:08- Between 1940 and 1941...
0:29:08 > 0:29:12- ..a camp was built - south of Henllan...
0:29:12 > 0:29:16- ..to hold the growing numbers - of prisoners of war...
0:29:16 > 0:29:18- ..flowing into Britain.
0:29:19 > 0:29:23- Suddenly, - this area was full of foreign men...
0:29:23 > 0:29:27- ..and some left their mark - in more ways than one.
0:29:31 > 0:29:34- Welcome to Camp 70, Heledd.
0:29:34 > 0:29:38- Imagine this place - with no trees and no buildings...
0:29:39 > 0:29:42- ..just 18 acres of level ground.
0:29:42 > 0:29:46- They built a prison camp here...
0:29:46 > 0:29:52- ..to house Italian POWs - from the Sahara, Tunisia and Libya.
0:29:52 > 0:29:55- Over 1,000 were held prisoner here.
0:29:55 > 0:29:56- Here in Henllan?
0:29:56 > 0:29:58- Here in Henllan?- - Yes, for four and a half years.
0:29:58 > 0:29:59- Why here?
0:29:59 > 0:30:02- Why here?- - It was far from the English Channel.
0:30:02 > 0:30:06- More food had to be grown - during the war...
0:30:06 > 0:30:11- ..so, they were sent out - to work on farms every day.
0:30:16 > 0:30:21- I'm trying to imagine the place - as it was so many years ago.
0:30:21 > 0:30:24- The sounds, what was here and so on.
0:30:25 > 0:30:28- The brick and concrete buildings - are still here...
0:30:28 > 0:30:32- ..but there were also 34 cabins - in which the Italians lived.
0:30:33 > 0:30:37- This is a drawing - of how it would have looked.
0:30:37 > 0:30:40- The theatre, the refectory...
0:30:40 > 0:30:44- ..and the cabins - where the Italians lived.
0:30:44 > 0:30:48- They provided enough activities - to keep the Italians entertained.
0:30:48 > 0:30:51- There was a swing band, - a la Glenn Miller.
0:30:52 > 0:30:57- There were four football teams, - they played tennis and bowls.
0:30:57 > 0:30:59- So, they were treated well.
0:30:59 > 0:31:03- The term prisoner of war camp - conjures up a certain image.
0:31:04 > 0:31:06- But this feels rather different.
0:31:06 > 0:31:09- Because they'd got rid - of the Fascists...
0:31:09 > 0:31:13- ..and royalist Italians had produced - weapons to fight the Italians...
0:31:14 > 0:31:16- ..it was the moderate Italians - who remained...
0:31:17 > 0:31:19- ..and they were very easy to handle.
0:31:19 > 0:31:21- Were they allowed out?
0:31:21 > 0:31:24- Were they allowed out?- - Yes, some worked on local farms.
0:31:24 > 0:31:26- When they went out for the day...
0:31:26 > 0:31:31- ..they were given Welsh cakes, bara - brith or apple tarts here and there.
0:31:31 > 0:31:33- They had no money at the camp.
0:31:34 > 0:31:36- They used paper tokens.
0:31:36 > 0:31:40- They couldn't pay - for the cakes directly.
0:31:41 > 0:31:45- At night, after lights out, - they created little craft items.
0:31:46 > 0:31:48- This box is interesting.
0:31:48 > 0:31:53- Inside, unexpectedly, - is a bottle of wine.
0:31:53 > 0:31:55- Would you like to remove the top?
0:31:56 > 0:31:57- It won't hurt you. What is it?
0:31:58 > 0:32:00- Oh, a lighter.
0:32:01 > 0:32:06- They took a bullet, - found a lighter somewhere...
0:32:06 > 0:32:09- ..put the lighter into the cavity...
0:32:09 > 0:32:13- ..then they've made a bottle - as a gift for some farmer's wife.
0:32:13 > 0:32:14- Does it work?
0:32:14 > 0:32:16- Does it work?- - Yes, of course.
0:32:16 > 0:32:20- There's something else in the box.
0:32:20 > 0:32:22- I have a ring for you here.
0:32:23 > 0:32:26- If you'll excuse me, - we're about to get engaged.
0:32:28 > 0:32:31- This ring was made - from an old threepenny bit.
0:32:31 > 0:32:34- They gave them to people - as a thank you.
0:32:35 > 0:32:36- If you'd take it off...
0:32:36 > 0:32:37- If you'd take it off...- - I don't want to!
0:32:37 > 0:32:40- I've got another ring - which is even better.
0:32:40 > 0:32:43- This was made out of a spoon.
0:32:43 > 0:32:46- It's incredible - that they could do such a thing.
0:32:46 > 0:32:50- This was their way - of saying thank you for a kindness.
0:32:51 > 0:32:52- All made here.
0:32:55 > 0:32:57- The Italians may have been POWs...
0:32:58 > 0:33:01- ..but their story - is one of integration...
0:33:02 > 0:33:05- ..and engaging - with their new neighbours.
0:33:05 > 0:33:06- But it wasn't always so.
0:33:07 > 0:33:11- Some local people weren't quite - as peaceful in the past.
0:33:12 > 0:33:16- I'm on the trail of Newcastle - Emlyn's bloody history...
0:33:16 > 0:33:20- ..in the castle - that gives the town its name.
0:33:20 > 0:33:23- It stands proudly behind me, - or it did...
0:33:24 > 0:33:27- ..with the Teifi that way - and Adpar to the north.
0:33:28 > 0:33:31- The castle dates back to 1240.
0:33:31 > 0:33:35- It's one of the few Welsh castles - locally, built by Maredudd ap Rhys.
0:33:36 > 0:33:39- He was a bit fickle, - truth be told...
0:33:39 > 0:33:43- ..loyal to both Wales and England - at different times.
0:33:44 > 0:33:46- Or should that be disloyal?
0:33:47 > 0:33:50- In 1271, his son, Rhys, - succeeded him.
0:33:50 > 0:33:55- Unlike his father, Rhys - remained true to the English cause.
0:33:55 > 0:33:59- Once the war ended, - he was rewarded by the king.
0:34:01 > 0:34:04- He was made a knight - and received lands in Ystrad Tywi.
0:34:04 > 0:34:08- But once you get a taste of power, - you want more.
0:34:08 > 0:34:13- The Lord Rhys changed his tune - and began to fight against England.
0:34:14 > 0:34:16- His rebellion came in 1287.
0:34:16 > 0:34:21- In June, he seized Llandovery, - Dinefwr and Carreg Cennen castles.
0:34:21 > 0:34:26- He set fire to Swansea, - Carmarthen and Llanbadarn Fawr.
0:34:26 > 0:34:29- At the centre of the fighting - was this castle.
0:34:31 > 0:34:36- The English seized it first, - then the Welsh took back control.
0:34:36 > 0:34:40- Eventually, Edward I's might - rained down and laid siege to it.
0:34:41 > 0:34:44- The defenders - were left with no food or water...
0:34:44 > 0:34:47- ..nowhere to turn - and no-one to save them.
0:34:47 > 0:34:50- The soldiers - couldn't come or go for a month.
0:34:50 > 0:34:55- But somehow, the Lord Rhys - escaped from the King's clutches...
0:34:55 > 0:34:56- ..and fled to Ireland.
0:34:57 > 0:35:00- He came back, ready for more, - four years later.
0:35:01 > 0:35:03- But by then, it was too late.
0:35:04 > 0:35:07- His cause was lost - and his men had lost faith.
0:35:07 > 0:35:10- He was imprisoned - and killed in York.
0:35:10 > 0:35:14- He was hung first, then dragged - by wild horses just to make sure.
0:35:15 > 0:35:16- Lovely.
0:35:24 > 0:35:28- The river may bind the area, - but there's much more to it.
0:35:29 > 0:35:32- Water and fire come together here.
0:35:37 > 0:35:41- This forge has been in the centre - of the town for 25 years.
0:35:42 > 0:35:47- I'm meeting the man who's determined - to keep this tradition alive.
0:35:48 > 0:35:50- I started out renting next door.
0:35:51 > 0:35:55- This place was empty, - there was nothing here.
0:35:55 > 0:35:57- We're in an agricultural area.
0:35:58 > 0:36:02- Every village around here - would once have had a blacksmith.
0:36:03 > 0:36:05- Yes, maybe even two.
0:36:05 > 0:36:08- There was plenty of work, - repairs and so on.
0:36:09 > 0:36:11- Back then, everything was repaired.
0:36:11 > 0:36:13- Now, it's a chuckaway society.
0:36:14 > 0:36:16- I try to keep that tradition going.
0:36:17 > 0:36:22- What would the old blacksmith do - that you don't do?
0:36:22 > 0:36:23- Horses.
0:36:23 > 0:36:26- Shoeing horses, things like that.
0:36:27 > 0:36:30- Today, that work has split off.
0:36:30 > 0:36:33- You have smiths and farriers.
0:36:33 > 0:36:34- Right.
0:36:34 > 0:36:36- Right.- - In the old days, it was one job.
0:36:36 > 0:36:42- But I like to keep the work going, - and that's why I have a forge.
0:36:42 > 0:36:46- The old blacksmith - had the forge going all day.
0:36:46 > 0:36:50- As someone who's never - done this kind of work...
0:36:50 > 0:36:53- ..is there anything I could do - to see how it goes?
0:36:54 > 0:36:55- You could hit your finger.
0:36:56 > 0:36:57- With a hammer?
0:36:57 > 0:36:58- I've done that before.
0:37:00 > 0:37:04- Weathervanes are popular - in Barry's workshop.
0:37:04 > 0:37:06- But as we're close to the Teifi...
0:37:06 > 0:37:10- ..he wants me - to make a salmon weathervane.
0:37:10 > 0:37:14- Place it on the metal - and press this trigger...
0:37:15 > 0:37:17- ..then follow the line.
0:37:17 > 0:37:19- Slowly does it.
0:37:22 > 0:37:26- As you did when you traced the mark.
0:37:31 > 0:37:33- Did you have whisky for breakfast?
0:37:35 > 0:37:39- Alan can show you, - then you can finish it off.
0:37:40 > 0:37:41- Hopefully.
0:37:48 > 0:37:53- Put the scrolls on - and tack it at the top and bottom...
0:37:53 > 0:37:55- ..and at the bottom again.
0:37:56 > 0:37:57- A bit closer.
0:37:57 > 0:37:58- A bit closer.- - A bit closer? OK.
0:38:11 > 0:38:12- Brilliant.
0:38:13 > 0:38:14- A salmon weathervane.
0:38:21 > 0:38:21- .
0:38:26 > 0:38:26- Subtitles
0:38:26 > 0:38:28- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:38:29 > 0:38:34- I'm realizing a dream by visiting - the Catholic church in Henllan.
0:38:34 > 0:38:39- It was built - by Italian prisoners of war.
0:38:39 > 0:38:43- It's the only church of its kind - on the British mainland.
0:38:45 > 0:38:48- Why do you have such a strong link - with the church?
0:38:49 > 0:38:52- I did a project on altars - with the children at school.
0:38:53 > 0:38:56- I visited five churches - and this was one of them.
0:38:57 > 0:39:01- I learnt that the artist - was Mario Ferlito.
0:39:01 > 0:39:05- The children wanted to write to him, - and that's how it all began.
0:39:05 > 0:39:09- These eleven-year-olds - wrote to Mario.
0:39:09 > 0:39:12- He read their letter - and found out...
0:39:13 > 0:39:15- ..that his work was still here.
0:39:15 > 0:39:19- According to his wife, he broke down - and wept for 20 minutes.
0:39:20 > 0:39:23- The relationship - has lasted over the years...
0:39:23 > 0:39:27- ..through Mario, Maria - and now their two daughters.
0:39:27 > 0:39:29- We'll go in then.
0:39:33 > 0:39:35- If you open that door...
0:39:38 > 0:39:42- ..we're in the Church - of the Sacred Heart.
0:39:42 > 0:39:47- Your eyes are drawn - along these medallions...
0:39:47 > 0:39:53- ..towards the altar, - and the mural of the Last Supper.
0:39:54 > 0:39:55- And he painted all of these?
0:39:55 > 0:39:57- And he painted all of these?- - Yes, just him.
0:40:02 > 0:40:05- If you look at the fifth disciple - from the left...
0:40:06 > 0:40:09- ..wearing mustard yellow clothes...
0:40:09 > 0:40:12- ..that paint was made from onions.
0:40:13 > 0:40:14- No!
0:40:14 > 0:40:17- Mario created all the colours...
0:40:19 > 0:40:23- ..out of what the men brought back - after working on the farms.
0:40:24 > 0:40:25- He didn't have any paint.
0:40:26 > 0:40:27- There was no B&Q back then!
0:40:28 > 0:40:30- He had to create the colours.
0:40:30 > 0:40:31- Take the medallions.
0:40:32 > 0:40:35- The brown was made - from ground tea and coffee.
0:40:35 > 0:40:39- He also boiled fish bones - in the kitchen...
0:40:40 > 0:40:41- ..to make a glue.
0:40:42 > 0:40:46- He used the glue - to bind the paint to the walls.
0:40:46 > 0:40:51- You're talking about vegetables, - flowers, fruit, onions.
0:40:51 > 0:40:54- That's what all these colours are.
0:40:54 > 0:40:57- This is one of the candlesticks.
0:40:58 > 0:41:01- A tin of vegetable oil, perhaps.
0:41:02 > 0:41:07- At the top is the lid of the can, - to hold the wax.
0:41:08 > 0:41:10- All here since the 1940s.
0:41:10 > 0:41:11- All here since the 1940s.- - Yes, still here.
0:41:11 > 0:41:16- A series of pillars - run down either side.
0:41:16 > 0:41:20- The tops of the columns - resemble Greek architecture.
0:41:21 > 0:41:26- Schoolchildren collected these tins - and brought them to Henllan...
0:41:26 > 0:41:29- ..and they were used - to create these scrolls.
0:41:30 > 0:41:33- Just ordinary tins, - peas, baked beans, whatever.
0:41:34 > 0:41:37- And local children - gave these to the prisoners?
0:41:37 > 0:41:41- There's an arched piece of wood - on the top part of each window.
0:41:42 > 0:41:46- It gives them the appearance - of church windows.
0:41:46 > 0:41:52- He hadn't had any formal artistic - training, it was all instinctive.
0:41:52 > 0:41:56- The commandant asked him - if he'd like to paint the church.
0:41:57 > 0:42:00- It was quite an honour, - and it's still here today.
0:42:10 > 0:42:14- Wherever you go around here, - the world 'wiber' is evident.
0:42:15 > 0:42:20- It was a type of flying dragon - that once terrorized local people.
0:42:23 > 0:42:27- The story starts in Newcastle Emlyn, - Carmarthenshire...
0:42:28 > 0:42:32- ..and ends on the banks - of the Teifi, in Ceredigion.
0:42:34 > 0:42:38- It was the day of the summer fair, - and the town was packed.
0:42:38 > 0:42:41- Suddenly, - a shadow came over the town.
0:42:41 > 0:42:45- People looked up and saw this beast - landing on the castle tower...
0:42:45 > 0:42:49- ..roaring and breathing fire - and beating its wings...
0:42:49 > 0:42:52- ..and whatever else - they used to do.
0:42:53 > 0:42:57- The fair was over, and it would - have been the end of the town...
0:42:57 > 0:43:00- ..were it not - for one brave soldier...
0:43:00 > 0:43:03- ..who jumped into the river - and stripped.
0:43:03 > 0:43:08- Why the nudity's important, I don't - know, but it's in all the stories.
0:43:08 > 0:43:10- He took aim at the beast.
0:43:10 > 0:43:14- The beast had thick skin, - as hard as stone...
0:43:15 > 0:43:18- ..but there was one soft part, - its navel.
0:43:18 > 0:43:24- The bullet hit the beast, - which roared and flapped its wings.
0:43:24 > 0:43:27- Then it came down to the Teifi - to die.
0:43:29 > 0:43:34- It was impossible to drink the water - or fish in the Teifi for days.
0:43:34 > 0:43:38- The beast's blood and venom - had contaminated the river.
0:43:39 > 0:43:43- It's a wild tale, - an imaginary tale most probably...
0:43:43 > 0:43:47- ..but in nearby Llandysul, - there's a special laboratory.
0:43:48 > 0:43:52- It's one of the world leaders - in the manufacture of antivenom.
0:43:53 > 0:43:55- It must be something in the water.
0:43:56 > 0:44:01- Legends aren't the only things - being kept alive in Newcastle Emlyn.
0:44:02 > 0:44:06- The old tradition - of forging decorative metal...
0:44:07 > 0:44:09- ..remains at the heart of the town.
0:44:09 > 0:44:13- This is a 12 millimetre square bar.
0:44:13 > 0:44:17- It's been twisted - and it'll end up like this.
0:44:26 > 0:44:30- This is the traditional part - of a smith's work.
0:44:31 > 0:44:32- This is the forge...
0:44:32 > 0:44:35- ..and this is how blacksmiths - used to work all day.
0:44:36 > 0:44:41- By the forge in the morning, - and they didn't leave it all day.
0:44:41 > 0:44:46- They used to melt the metal, - bend the metal, make scrolls.
0:44:48 > 0:44:52- How do you know - that it's ready to be worked on?
0:44:52 > 0:44:56- The colour, which is reddish.
0:44:56 > 0:45:01- If you see sparks flying, - it's too hot.
0:45:01 > 0:45:04- The forging heat, as it's called.
0:45:07 > 0:45:10- There's that saying, - strike while the iron's hot.
0:45:11 > 0:45:13- Clearly, - this is where it comes from.
0:45:17 > 0:45:18- It's over to you now.
0:45:33 > 0:45:36- It's square, the shape's changed.
0:45:38 > 0:45:39- I see.
0:45:42 > 0:45:44- There we go, like that.
0:45:44 > 0:45:45- Bend it down.
0:45:45 > 0:45:47- I want it like this.
0:45:47 > 0:45:48- I want it like this.- - Do I hit it like this?
0:45:49 > 0:45:52- Hit that at the tip, slowly.
0:45:54 > 0:45:56- Pretty good.
0:45:57 > 0:46:00- No problem at all, very good.
0:46:00 > 0:46:01- Great!
0:46:06 > 0:46:09- What I find interesting, Barry...
0:46:10 > 0:46:13- ..even though you have - all these machines here...
0:46:13 > 0:46:17- ..you carry on the old traditions - with the forge and so on.
0:46:17 > 0:46:20- It'd be a great shame - if that died off.
0:46:20 > 0:46:23- I get great pleasure - working with the fire.
0:46:23 > 0:46:27- A lot of people come in - and they enjoy watching...
0:46:28 > 0:46:32- ..hearing the hammer - strike the anvil...
0:46:32 > 0:46:34- ..and seeing the forge.
0:46:34 > 0:46:38- As long as I'm alive, there'll be - a forge in Newcastle Emlyn.
0:46:40 > 0:46:44- There is a popular image of Wales - that is, I must admit...
0:46:45 > 0:46:48- ..close to the impression - I've had of this area.
0:46:49 > 0:46:53- A bit out of the way, where time - seems to have stood still.
0:46:53 > 0:46:57- Where old industries and traditions - still hold their own...
0:46:58 > 0:47:02- ..despite every attempt - to sweep them off the map.
0:47:03 > 0:47:06- But the more you scratch - the surface, the more you see.
0:47:06 > 0:47:11- Lost stories, and others - that shatter the peaceful image.
0:47:12 > 0:47:15- They prove that you can't - take anywhere for granted.
0:47:16 > 0:47:19- It's a small area, - but a proud area...
0:47:19 > 0:47:23- ..that's happy to share its secrets - if you know where to look.
0:47:23 > 0:47:27- I wonder what others will come - to light when I return here.
0:47:43 > 0:47:45- S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.
0:47:45 > 0:47:45- .