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0:00:02 > 0:00:06- Wales is a country - with a wealth of history.
0:00:06 > 0:00:12- History became folk tales - which in turn became legends.
0:00:12 > 0:00:17- Things can get lost, sometimes - for hundreds of thousands of years.
0:00:18 > 0:00:22- Ghosts, dragons, witches.
0:00:22 > 0:00:26- All wild tales, - and nowhere suits them better.
0:00:30 > 0:00:33- This week, - we're in the Vale of Clwyd...
0:00:34 > 0:00:39- ..an expansive agricultural area - that's home to new and old industry.
0:00:40 > 0:00:46- It has numerous remote spots, - hiding a variety of secrets.
0:00:49 > 0:00:52- But be careful, - or you could trample on something.
0:01:12 > 0:01:18- "When Lleweni Fawr was a lake - and Ruthin was a harbour town."
0:01:18 > 0:01:23- That old saying gives us an insight - into how this area once looked.
0:01:23 > 0:01:27- But time changes - the land around us...
0:01:27 > 0:01:32- ..although not necessarily - to the same extent everywhere.
0:01:32 > 0:01:34- This is our habitat.
0:01:43 > 0:01:47- Our journey starts on the outskirts - of the market town of Ruthin.
0:01:47 > 0:01:52- The town's history is more fiery - than that of many other Welsh towns.
0:01:53 > 0:01:54- It saw fierce battles...
0:01:54 > 0:01:59- ..between Owain Glyndwr and the - local lords, the De Grey family.
0:01:59 > 0:02:04- But Ruthin has held on - to its heritage...
0:02:05 > 0:02:07- ..as the architecture proves.
0:02:07 > 0:02:11- Many of the buildings - have stayed unchanged for centuries.
0:02:11 > 0:02:17- There are old hanging beams here, - and boulders linked to King Arthur.
0:02:17 > 0:02:21- It's also where Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau - was first published.
0:02:21 > 0:02:24- South of Ruthin, in Pentrecelyn...
0:02:24 > 0:02:28- ..is a farm that witnessed - all of this, and much more.
0:02:31 > 0:02:36- There are remnants on this farm - that go back millions of years.
0:02:36 > 0:02:39- One of the oldest - is the rock behind us.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43- You can see shells in the rock...
0:02:43 > 0:02:46- ..which proves - that it has been under water.
0:02:46 > 0:02:50- The Vale of Clwyd was once submerged - all the way up to Pentrecelyn.
0:02:51 > 0:02:55- That's how the rock, - the different strata, was formed.
0:02:55 > 0:02:59- The same process is happening - on Australia's coral reef today...
0:03:00 > 0:03:02- ..as happened here - millions of years ago.
0:03:03 > 0:03:04- It's incredible.
0:03:04 > 0:03:07- It is odd to think - what was here then.
0:03:07 > 0:03:11- You could say that the history - of the Vale of Clwyd...
0:03:11 > 0:03:14- ..is contained - within the farm's boundaries.
0:03:14 > 0:03:18- There's a Roman road - near the lower fields.
0:03:18 > 0:03:22- It ran from Caergai, - in Llanuwchllyn, to Chester.
0:03:22 > 0:03:26- Have you been along it at all?
0:03:26 > 0:03:29- I've been along it - with a metal detector.
0:03:29 > 0:03:31- Did you find anything?
0:03:31 > 0:03:33- Did you find anything?- - They took it all with them!
0:03:33 > 0:03:35- They didn't leave anything for me.
0:03:36 > 0:03:39- They have found Roman coins - a mile further south.
0:03:40 > 0:03:43- But I haven't found anything.
0:03:43 > 0:03:48- It must be odd to think that this - place's history goes back so far.
0:03:48 > 0:03:49- I suppose so.
0:03:50 > 0:03:54- I don't think we realize - because we're here every day.
0:04:05 > 0:04:09- My family has been here since 1926, - when my grandfather bought it.
0:04:10 > 0:04:14- The old part of the house, - this corner, was built in 1580.
0:04:14 > 0:04:18- They built an extension in 1620...
0:04:18 > 0:04:21- ..which has a special chimney.
0:04:22 > 0:04:25- It has eight corners.
0:04:25 > 0:04:29- I admire whoever built it - for going to so much trouble.
0:04:29 > 0:04:32- He must have been a craftsman.
0:04:32 > 0:04:36- Grandad, Edward Vaughan Jones, - Ted Ty'n Llanfair...
0:04:36 > 0:04:38- ..kept a threshing machine.
0:04:38 > 0:04:43- I've got a book - that has been kept since 1937-38.
0:04:43 > 0:04:47- It's a record of the farms - where they would thresh.
0:04:48 > 0:04:51- That's my grandfather - on the traction.
0:04:52 > 0:04:53- It's a good photo.
0:04:53 > 0:04:56- They also kept a stallion.
0:04:56 > 0:05:00- The stallion went to one farm - in any area for a day.
0:05:01 > 0:05:05- Other nearby farms would bring - their mares to the stallion.
0:05:05 > 0:05:08- There's a similar list in this book.
0:05:08 > 0:05:13- Service of entire horse, - Celyn Senator, 1938.
0:05:13 > 0:05:14- One or two didn't pay.
0:05:15 > 0:05:17- I'll have to chase them!
0:05:17 > 0:05:19- I'll have to chase them!- - He was a busy boy too.
0:05:19 > 0:05:20- Oh, yes.
0:05:22 > 0:05:24- What about the local farms?
0:05:24 > 0:05:26- What about the local farms?- - It's the commote of Faenol.
0:05:26 > 0:05:31- This side of Llysfasi, - there's still a farm called Faenol.
0:05:31 > 0:05:33- That's what they call this area.
0:05:33 > 0:05:36- I wrote a piece - for the community newspaper...
0:05:37 > 0:05:40- ..about who lived in the commote - 50 years ago.
0:05:41 > 0:05:44- There were about 17 farms - and houses here.
0:05:44 > 0:05:46- It was interesting.
0:05:46 > 0:05:50- Only two farms - are still in the same family today.
0:05:50 > 0:05:54- Ty Isaf down the road, - and I'm here at Ty'n Llanfair.
0:05:55 > 0:06:00- But what is heartening is that 12 - are still owned by Welsh speakers.
0:06:00 > 0:06:02- It's not bad at all.
0:06:02 > 0:06:05- The language is perfectly safe.
0:06:08 > 0:06:13- The past is much in evidence - here at Ty'n Llanfair.
0:06:13 > 0:06:17- It's strange to think - that we can walk the same paths...
0:06:18 > 0:06:21- ..as Roman soldiers - through these fields.
0:06:21 > 0:06:26- The history we're looking at - in Denbigh is different.
0:06:26 > 0:06:32- Legends, superstition and tales - of ghosts and witches abound.
0:06:34 > 0:06:37- I'm off on a circuit - of Denbigh today.
0:06:38 > 0:06:41- I'll head up to the castle...
0:06:41 > 0:06:44- ..then go to Llannefydd, - north of the town.
0:06:45 > 0:06:49- Denbigh has a reputation - for being a superstitious place.
0:06:50 > 0:06:53- They take ghosts and witches - very seriously.
0:06:54 > 0:06:59- The adventurer HM Stanley, - who was born here, noticed this.
0:07:00 > 0:07:03- "If the grown folk - had not all shared belief...
0:07:03 > 0:07:07- "..in these gruesome creatures, - I might have doubted they existed.
0:07:07 > 0:07:10- "But I remember to have seen them - huddle close to the fire...
0:07:11 > 0:07:12- "..look at the shadows...
0:07:13 > 0:07:17- "..as though they lay in way - for darkness to pounce upon them...
0:07:17 > 0:07:20- "..and carry them off - into the ghostly limbo."
0:07:21 > 0:07:24- More recently, - a TV programme got into trouble...
0:07:24 > 0:07:28- ..for dubbing Denbigh - "the village of the damned"...
0:07:28 > 0:07:32- ..because there's so much here - to chill the blood.
0:07:33 > 0:07:37- I won't label the town, but lots of - things go bump in the night here...
0:07:38 > 0:07:39- ..if you know where to look.
0:07:40 > 0:07:42- Take the witches of Denbigh.
0:07:42 > 0:07:44- Sydney used to summon Satan.
0:07:44 > 0:07:47- Actually, it was her son - dressed as Satan.
0:07:47 > 0:07:50- Sioned Gorn - could foresee the future...
0:07:51 > 0:07:54- ..and hunt ghosts - like any proper psychic.
0:07:54 > 0:07:58- Then there was Bella Fawr, seen - in this painting by Edward Pugh.
0:07:59 > 0:08:02- Apparently, - she removed a curse from him...
0:08:03 > 0:08:05- ..and got this as a thank you.
0:08:05 > 0:08:07- The witches weren't all bad.
0:08:08 > 0:08:11- The witches - lived near the Lenten Pool...
0:08:12 > 0:08:16- ..which is now in the grounds - of the old psychiatric hospital.
0:08:17 > 0:08:20- The site is now - too dangerous to enter.
0:08:20 > 0:08:23- Because the building is collapsing?
0:08:23 > 0:08:27- Or because the witches hung around - for ages after their deaths?
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- You decide, because - I'm not hanging around.
0:08:36 > 0:08:40- North of Denbigh, on the western - side of the Vale of Clwyd...
0:08:40 > 0:08:45- ..there are surprises within - the Elwy Valley's limestone cliffs.
0:08:46 > 0:08:51- The caves were formed by the River - Elwy thousands of years ago.
0:09:08 > 0:09:09- You probably can't tell...
0:09:10 > 0:09:13- ..but I'm on the land - of Plas-yn-Cefn near St Asaph...
0:09:15 > 0:09:17- ..owned by the Wynn family.
0:09:18 > 0:09:21- If you know the area, - you'll know the name.
0:09:21 > 0:09:25- The Wynn family - extends back for many centuries.
0:09:25 > 0:09:29- They can trace their lineage back - to Llywelyn ap Gruffudd...
0:09:29 > 0:09:31- ..or Llywelyn the Last.
0:09:36 > 0:09:42- But the more you peer into Cefn's - history, the further back you go...
0:09:42 > 0:09:44- ..past generations of ancestors...
0:09:44 > 0:09:49- ..to the beginnings of our country - and of mankind itself.
0:09:52 > 0:09:55- Charles Darwin himself - came here in 1831...
0:09:56 > 0:10:00- ..while on a geological trip - with Professor Adam Sedgwick.
0:10:00 > 0:10:02- An odd couple, - if ever there was one.
0:10:03 > 0:10:08- Darwin nurtured the revolutionary - ideas that would make him famous...
0:10:08 > 0:10:12- ..while Sedgwick - had a very different standpoint.
0:10:15 > 0:10:19- Like many others, - Sedgwick still believed...
0:10:19 > 0:10:23- ..that the story of Noah - and the flood was literally true.
0:10:23 > 0:10:27- He hoped to find evidence of that - here among the rocks of North Wales.
0:10:31 > 0:10:35- Sedgwick didn't find - the evidence that he sought.
0:10:35 > 0:10:38- But somewhere - in the bowels of the earth here...
0:10:39 > 0:10:41- ..they did find - the tooth of a rhino...
0:10:42 > 0:10:46- ..that lived here 125,000 years ago.
0:10:50 > 0:10:54- Right after leaving North Wales, - Darwin boarded the Beagle.
0:10:54 > 0:10:56- It took him to the Galapagos...
0:10:57 > 0:11:01- ..where he made one of mankind's - most staggering discoveries.
0:11:01 > 0:11:03- His theory of evolution.
0:11:03 > 0:11:06- And while that occupied his mind...
0:11:07 > 0:11:10- ..had he gone - into another cave nearby...
0:11:11 > 0:11:14- ..he wouldn't have found - a rhino's tooth...
0:11:14 > 0:11:17- ..but the tooth of something - much more remarkable.
0:11:18 > 0:11:18- .
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0:11:26 > 0:11:31- The Vale of Clwyd - isn't famous for its industry.
0:11:31 > 0:11:35- There are no furnaces - or factories churning out smoke...
0:11:35 > 0:11:40- ..and the old railways that once - served the area are long gone.
0:11:40 > 0:11:45- But there is a successful company - near Llannefydd...
0:11:45 > 0:11:49- ..whose produce is distributed - all over the world.
0:12:00 > 0:12:05- You don't expect to come across - a brand-new factory...
0:12:05 > 0:12:08- ..in a peaceful rural part - of the Vale of Clwyd.
0:12:09 > 0:12:12- But over 30,000 pots of yoghurt...
0:12:12 > 0:12:15- ..in 14 flavours - are produced here every day...
0:12:15 > 0:12:19- ..and the business is still growing.
0:12:20 > 0:12:22- But it was different at the outset.
0:12:27 > 0:12:30- Our parents started back in 1985.
0:12:30 > 0:12:35- I was six then, and I've grown up - with the whole process.
0:12:36 > 0:12:39- I saw my parents - slaving away late at night...
0:12:39 > 0:12:42- ..trying to pack yoghurt into pots.
0:12:42 > 0:12:46- The bus dropped me off - at the crossroads after school.
0:12:47 > 0:12:52- If they'd got to black cherry, - they could have a relaxed evening.
0:12:53 > 0:12:58- But if they were only on pineapple, - they'd be at it until nine or ten.
0:12:59 > 0:13:00- I've seen it all.
0:13:00 > 0:13:04- I've had - an incredible upbringing, in a way.
0:13:04 > 0:13:05- So, it'll remain a family company.
0:13:05 > 0:13:10- So, it'll remain a family company.- - It'd be nice to carry on the story.
0:13:11 > 0:13:14- But I'd never pressurize anyone.
0:13:14 > 0:13:18- I had dreams - back when I was ten years old.
0:13:18 > 0:13:22- I didn't see my future - in packing yoghurts!
0:13:22 > 0:13:25- There's no pressure on anyone - to join the business.
0:13:26 > 0:13:31- Packing yoghurts may be one way - to describe this booming business.
0:13:31 > 0:13:34- But it all started - over 30 years ago...
0:13:35 > 0:13:37- ..in very different circumstances...
0:13:38 > 0:13:42- ..as Tal-y-Bryn dairy farm - sought new ways to make money.
0:13:43 > 0:13:45- It was tough, - because it was just us two.
0:13:46 > 0:13:48- Gareth milked - and I bottled the milk.
0:13:48 > 0:13:52- We washed the bottles here, - these bottles.
0:13:52 > 0:13:56- That's how we started, - with the hot water cupboard.
0:13:56 > 0:14:01- It's all very well to think - we're an entrepreneurial bunch.
0:14:01 > 0:14:06- What inspired us to make yoghurt...
0:14:07 > 0:14:11- ..was the fact that we had - a by-product on our hands.
0:14:11 > 0:14:13- That was cream.
0:14:13 > 0:14:17- If you could sell cream one way - and skim in another...
0:14:18 > 0:14:21- ..for the same price as milk, - it was a gold watch.
0:14:22 > 0:14:26- But when the cream - became a business in itself...
0:14:27 > 0:14:30- ..we had a big surplus of skim.
0:14:30 > 0:14:34- It was wooden spoon time, - profits were small.
0:14:34 > 0:14:36- That's what happened.
0:14:36 > 0:14:40- We had to do something - with the skim.
0:14:40 > 0:14:43- The business has stayed - at the family home.
0:14:43 > 0:14:47- The company's history is here, - and your roots are in the area.
0:14:48 > 0:14:49- You must be proud of that.
0:14:50 > 0:14:54- A few have asked why we don't - relocate to an industrial estate.
0:14:54 > 0:14:57- But everyone likes coming here.
0:14:57 > 0:15:01- People like to come here for supper, - come here to visit us.
0:15:02 > 0:15:05- The Llannefydd area - is very important to us.
0:15:05 > 0:15:08- This is where the story is.
0:15:08 > 0:15:11- People can see who produced it...
0:15:12 > 0:15:15- ..and where it's been produced.
0:15:15 > 0:15:20- Even today, in these modern times, - people like that.
0:15:20 > 0:15:23- But having seen - what you've created...
0:15:23 > 0:15:27- ..and the fact that the company - is in your children's hands...
0:15:27 > 0:15:30- ..that must fill you with pride.
0:15:31 > 0:15:34- Yes, we do feel proud, - and it's nice to sit back.
0:15:34 > 0:15:37- But I'm a hands-on person. - I like to keep busy.
0:15:37 > 0:15:39- I don't really like to sit back.
0:15:39 > 0:15:44- It's hard when they're doing it, - as long as they do it right.
0:15:45 > 0:15:47- That's what we don't like!
0:15:47 > 0:15:51- Not that they do it the right way, - that they do it our way!
0:16:03 > 0:16:06- Yes, it's hard to let go sometimes.
0:16:07 > 0:16:10- But if you do - let your imagination run free...
0:16:10 > 0:16:14- ..the Clwydian Hills - can be an inspirational location.
0:16:20 > 0:16:25- Recently, I've started - to look to the hills.
0:16:25 > 0:16:29- The Clwydian Hills are incredible.
0:16:31 > 0:16:34- The next step, - rather than just looking at them...
0:16:34 > 0:16:36- ..was to get them working for me.
0:16:37 > 0:16:40- To use the mountain - to create patterns on material.
0:16:41 > 0:16:44- I'm not sure yet - where the idea will take me.
0:16:44 > 0:16:47- That the mountain itself - leaves a mark.
0:16:49 > 0:16:51- As the years have passed...
0:16:51 > 0:16:55- ..I've realized that we are - perpetuating a very old Welsh craft.
0:16:56 > 0:16:57- The craft of quilting.
0:17:00 > 0:17:04- It is important to me - to keep that tradition alive.
0:17:04 > 0:17:08- It's a native Welsh craft - that has travelled the world.
0:17:10 > 0:17:14- I also want to develop the craft - into the future...
0:17:14 > 0:17:18- ..by using more contemporary - and experimental techniques.
0:17:23 > 0:17:27- The line between art and craft - is fairly thin.
0:17:31 > 0:17:35- It can take months, years even...
0:17:35 > 0:17:39- ..for a project - to mature in the subconscious.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45- It's not the stitching - that takes time.
0:17:45 > 0:17:49- Your time is invested - in planning and preparation.
0:17:51 > 0:17:54- It's part of your identity, - I think...
0:17:55 > 0:17:59- ..when you live in such a scenic - and inspirational area.
0:18:07 > 0:18:10- All kinds of horrors - have taken place...
0:18:11 > 0:18:13- ..within and outside Denbigh Castle.
0:18:14 > 0:18:19- As a result, there's no surprise - that ghost stories and worse abound.
0:18:22 > 0:18:24- In the 13th century, - there's a story...
0:18:24 > 0:18:28- ..that the son of Henry de Lacy, - Earl of Lincoln...
0:18:28 > 0:18:33- ..who built this castle - for Edward I, fell into this well.
0:18:34 > 0:18:37- He was only 15 - when the accident happened.
0:18:37 > 0:18:40- Ever since, - it's said that you can see him...
0:18:41 > 0:18:44- ..peeping through the windows - looking sad.
0:18:44 > 0:18:46- Some claim to have heard screams...
0:18:46 > 0:18:50- ..and to feeling nervous - and fearful for no reason.
0:18:53 > 0:18:58- There's also a story about a woman - in white roaming these walls...
0:18:59 > 0:19:02- ..and a dark shape - darting around the place.
0:19:03 > 0:19:06- But the most famous story - is even more incredible.
0:19:09 > 0:19:11- A dragon lived here - in Denbigh Castle.
0:19:12 > 0:19:14- Local people called it "bych".
0:19:14 > 0:19:16- It made its home in the castle...
0:19:17 > 0:19:21- ..and plummeted from the sky, - attacking the villagers...
0:19:21 > 0:19:24- ..and snatched grazing animals - from nearby fields.
0:19:25 > 0:19:28- The villagers had no choice - but to suffer in silence...
0:19:28 > 0:19:31- ..until one hero saved the day.
0:19:31 > 0:19:34- He rushed towards the creature...
0:19:34 > 0:19:36- ..and stabbed the dragon - with his sword.
0:19:37 > 0:19:41- People started to celebrate - and chant "Dim bych" - no dragon.
0:19:42 > 0:19:48- And, according to legend, - fantastically but unbelievably...
0:19:48 > 0:19:52- ..that's how Dinbych - got its Welsh name.
0:20:01 > 0:20:04- It's strange how our image - of somewhere can change.
0:20:05 > 0:20:07- Back in the early 20th century...
0:20:07 > 0:20:12- ..local children played in the caves - that are all over the Cefn estate.
0:20:12 > 0:20:14- No-one thought twice about it.
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- But in 1978, archaeologists - came across remains here...
0:20:19 > 0:20:25- ..that were older than any - human remains ever found in Wales.
0:20:26 > 0:20:29- And since local children - used to play here...
0:20:29 > 0:20:32- ..it would be a shame - to see the tradition die out.
0:20:33 > 0:20:37- It was also a chance to share - the story with some local families.
0:20:37 > 0:20:43- When the archaeologists came here, - they dug outside the cave as well.
0:20:43 > 0:20:46- This is a photo of them digging.
0:20:47 > 0:20:51- That's where they found - a bear skull.
0:20:51 > 0:20:56- That proves there were animals here - that you don't see today.
0:20:56 > 0:20:57- Look at the huge tooth.
0:20:57 > 0:20:58- Look at the huge tooth.- - It's really big.
0:20:59 > 0:21:03- The most surprising thing - that they found during the dig...
0:21:04 > 0:21:08- ..were teeth - from a Neanderthal child...
0:21:08 > 0:21:11- ..from over 200,000 years ago.
0:21:15 > 0:21:20- As an archaeologist, I'm so excited - to be visiting this particular cave.
0:21:20 > 0:21:25- Since the incredible discovery, - very few visitors are allowed here.
0:21:25 > 0:21:28- But we're honoured - to have been permitted...
0:21:29 > 0:21:32- ..to unlock the door - that was put in place...
0:21:32 > 0:21:36- ..after the National Museum - of Wales archaeologists...
0:21:36 > 0:21:39- ..completed their work in 1985.
0:21:39 > 0:21:40- Let's see what's here.
0:21:41 > 0:21:44- If you look carefully, - what do you see here?
0:21:44 > 0:21:45- Stones.
0:21:45 > 0:21:46- Stones.- - Stones, yes.
0:21:46 > 0:21:48- And clay.
0:21:48 > 0:21:51- Does everything here look the same?
0:21:51 > 0:21:56- The top is more rough and uneven.
0:21:56 > 0:22:00- But further down, - it's really smooth.
0:22:00 > 0:22:03- That shows that they formed - in different ways.
0:22:04 > 0:22:07- You have material - that flowed into this cave.
0:22:08 > 0:22:12- Above that, - stalagmites formed and grew.
0:22:15 > 0:22:19- That was dated back - to 220,000 years ago.
0:22:19 > 0:22:23- This flowed in, - then stalagmites grew.
0:22:23 > 0:22:29- This filled the cave up to the - opening through which we came in.
0:22:30 > 0:22:36- Nothing came into the cave - until about 80,000 years ago.
0:22:37 > 0:22:42- Another flow then came in - to leave the upper deposits.
0:22:42 > 0:22:47- By dating this layer - to 220,000 years ago...
0:22:47 > 0:22:50- ..the rocks beneath - are clearly older.
0:22:50 > 0:22:55- That's how they know how old - the bones and stones there are.
0:23:01 > 0:23:03- I think there is - some awareness locally.
0:23:04 > 0:23:07- But if you asked someone - on the street in Denbigh...
0:23:07 > 0:23:11- ..it's quite possible - that they'd be unaware...
0:23:11 > 0:23:16- ..that one of the most important - archaeological finds in Wales...
0:23:16 > 0:23:18- ..was made a stone's throw away.
0:23:19 > 0:23:22- Did you know a lot - about these caves before today?
0:23:23 > 0:23:25- I knew about the caves' existence...
0:23:25 > 0:23:29- ..and that they'd found - the bones and the teeth here...
0:23:29 > 0:23:32- ..but I've never - had the chance to visit.
0:23:32 > 0:23:35- I'm so glad - to have been able to come here...
0:23:35 > 0:23:40- ..to see somewhere so important - as regards Welsh history...
0:23:40 > 0:23:42- ..our ancient history...
0:23:42 > 0:23:46- ..to see the site - where these discoveries were made.
0:23:55 > 0:23:58- I've been in lots of ancient caves.
0:23:58 > 0:24:00- They're remarkable places.
0:24:01 > 0:24:03- When we think about Welsh history...
0:24:03 > 0:24:06- ..the music and the literature...
0:24:07 > 0:24:09- ..our history as people...
0:24:10 > 0:24:14- ..there were people here hunting...
0:24:15 > 0:24:16- ..worrying...
0:24:16 > 0:24:17- ..laughing...
0:24:18 > 0:24:22- ..and living their lives - near this cave...
0:24:23 > 0:24:25- ..far before that all began.
0:24:26 > 0:24:27- .
0:24:32 > 0:24:32- Subtitles
0:24:32 > 0:24:34- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:24:36 > 0:24:40- We're in the scenic Vale of Clwyd...
0:24:40 > 0:24:45- ..on the trail of ghost stories, - legends and historical remains.
0:24:46 > 0:24:50- This particular vale - is replete with stories.
0:24:50 > 0:24:54- One family in particular - has more stories than anyone.
0:25:03 > 0:25:06- I'm a little north of Denbigh, - at Lleweni Parc.
0:25:06 > 0:25:09- It's a lovely place - to walk and fish...
0:25:09 > 0:25:12- ..or to fly above the area - in a glider.
0:25:16 > 0:25:21- The gliders soar above the old home - of the Salisbury family.
0:25:21 > 0:25:25- They built these gardens - almost 400 years ago.
0:25:25 > 0:25:29- There's an old folk song - called Ysbryd Dafydd Salisbury...
0:25:29 > 0:25:32- ..about one family member - roaming on horseback...
0:25:33 > 0:25:36- ..in the middle of the night, - moaning and groaning.
0:25:36 > 0:25:40- There's also a tale about the ghost - of a giant of a man...
0:25:40 > 0:25:44- ..roaming and carrying huge blocks - of wood on his shoulders.
0:25:46 > 0:25:49- Some connect that ghost - with John Salisbury...
0:25:49 > 0:25:51- ..also known as Sion y Bodiau...
0:25:51 > 0:25:56- ..the same man that they say - killed the dragon at Denbigh Castle.
0:25:57 > 0:26:00- But John Salisbury - was also a man of flesh and blood.
0:26:00 > 0:26:03- He was a soldier and an MP...
0:26:04 > 0:26:07- ..and was also at one time - Denbighshire's wealthiest man.
0:26:08 > 0:26:12- With two thumbs on each hand, - you might think he had it tough...
0:26:12 > 0:26:15- ..especially - if you believe the story...
0:26:15 > 0:26:19- ..that he wrestled a lion - just to please Elizabeth I.
0:26:20 > 0:26:25- These are the Salisbury family's - former stables, Lleweni Hall.
0:26:25 > 0:26:29- From here, the family - spread across the world.
0:26:29 > 0:26:34- One of them was among the founders - of the city of Halifax, Nova Scotia.
0:26:34 > 0:26:37- Another was friends - with William Shakespeare.
0:26:37 > 0:26:39- Soldiers, poets, adventurers.
0:26:40 > 0:26:43- But we shouldn't forget - the women of the family.
0:26:43 > 0:26:46- One settled in Llannefydd, - where I'm heading now.
0:26:47 > 0:26:50- The stories about her - are a bit more credible.
0:26:50 > 0:26:51- Well, just.
0:26:54 > 0:26:59- As the main town of the Vale - of Clwyd since the 13th century...
0:26:59 > 0:27:02- ..Ruthin has a tumultuous history.
0:27:02 > 0:27:06- Welsh princes and English barons - battled for this part of Wales.
0:27:09 > 0:27:14- In 1400, Owain Glyndwr came here - and set fire to the town.
0:27:14 > 0:27:18- It's hard to find buildings - that are older than that.
0:27:18 > 0:27:22- But with Nantclwyd y Dre, - we get relatively close.
0:27:22 > 0:27:25- Built in 1435...
0:27:25 > 0:27:30- ..this is the oldest - timber-framed townhouse in Wales.
0:27:32 > 0:27:34- As you'd expect - in such an old house...
0:27:34 > 0:27:39- ..there are layers upon layers - of history here.
0:27:39 > 0:27:41- Over the years, it has been home...
0:27:42 > 0:27:45- ..to solicitors, teachers, - merchants and doctors...
0:27:46 > 0:27:49- ..as well as noblemen - leading leisurely lives.
0:27:51 > 0:27:53- Wherever you go in Ruthin...
0:27:53 > 0:27:56- ..the history of law and order - follows you around.
0:27:56 > 0:27:59- Ruthin is a peaceful town now...
0:27:59 > 0:28:03- ..but it wasn't - in the time of Owain Glyndwr.
0:28:07 > 0:28:12- After Glyndwr razed the town - to the ground in 1400...
0:28:12 > 0:28:15- ..rebuilding work began.
0:28:15 > 0:28:19- Thanks to research - on Nantclwyd y Dre's oak timbers...
0:28:19 > 0:28:23- ..it's possible to date it - to that exact period.
0:28:25 > 0:28:29- What we're seeing here - is the original house.
0:28:29 > 0:28:31- It was only 30 years...
0:28:31 > 0:28:36- ..after Owain Glyndwr came - and set the town on fire.
0:28:36 > 0:28:40- He was doing battle - with Reginald de Grey...
0:28:40 > 0:28:43- ..who lived in the town's castle.
0:28:44 > 0:28:46- Was the house rebuilt then?
0:28:46 > 0:28:48- We don't really know.
0:28:48 > 0:28:51- There must have been - something there.
0:28:51 > 0:28:53- But that's the first house - we know of.
0:28:54 > 0:28:58- The first person to live here - was Gronw ap Madog.
0:28:59 > 0:29:00- A proper Welsh name.
0:29:01 > 0:29:05- He married a woman called Suzanna, - an Englishwoman.
0:29:05 > 0:29:10- Reginald de Grey was getting rent - of about two shillings for the land.
0:29:10 > 0:29:11- Right.
0:29:12 > 0:29:16- But when he found out that Suzanna - was marrying a Welshman...
0:29:16 > 0:29:19- ..the rent went up - to eight shillings.
0:29:19 > 0:29:24- This area here - is part of the back gardens.
0:29:24 > 0:29:27- But this area behind us - is something different.
0:29:27 > 0:29:29- Yes, this was the lord's garden.
0:29:30 > 0:29:33- Originally, this didn't belong - to Nantclwyd y Dre.
0:29:34 > 0:29:36- This garden belonged to the castle.
0:29:36 > 0:29:40- The food for the castle - was grown here.
0:29:41 > 0:29:44- We're going back to the 1600s now.
0:29:44 > 0:29:49- Nantclwyd rented the land - from the castle.
0:29:49 > 0:29:54- Almost a century passed - before they could buy the land.
0:30:10 > 0:30:14- Do we know - who gardened here originally?
0:30:14 > 0:30:18- Yes, we know the first gardener.
0:30:18 > 0:30:22- A chap called Richard Peart.
0:30:22 > 0:30:25- He was here for 30 years.
0:30:25 > 0:30:28- He was the gardener - of the lord at the castle.
0:30:29 > 0:30:34- We get a lot of Americans - visiting the garden.
0:30:34 > 0:30:37- This is what I tell them - about Richard Peart.
0:30:37 > 0:30:39- We know he was here...
0:30:39 > 0:30:43- ..fifty years before Christopher - Columbus left for the Americas.
0:30:44 > 0:30:46- "Gee, that's kinda great!"
0:30:47 > 0:30:49- They're happy to hear that.
0:30:56 > 0:31:01- We think that this mound - was used to site guns...
0:31:01 > 0:31:03- ..during the Civil War - in the 1600s...
0:31:04 > 0:31:06- ..to fire towards the castle.
0:31:07 > 0:31:09- What's this spot called?
0:31:10 > 0:31:11- This is Cunning Green.
0:31:12 > 0:31:15- From cwningen, - the Welsh word for rabbit.
0:31:15 > 0:31:19- If you stand here, - you'll often see rabbits down there.
0:31:19 > 0:31:24- They reckon that the castle - used it as a rabbit warren.
0:31:24 > 0:31:27- For food, you mean?
0:31:27 > 0:31:30- For food, you mean?- - For food, and for their skins.
0:31:30 > 0:31:34- It's remarkable - that the name has survived.
0:31:35 > 0:31:41- There are still links between - this house and law and order.
0:31:41 > 0:31:45- I know that judges lodged here - three times a year, and so on.
0:31:45 > 0:31:49- But you're an ex-policeman - working in the garden.
0:31:49 > 0:31:52- I was a policeman - in Ruthin in 1984.
0:31:53 > 0:31:56- Yes, there's still a link today.
0:32:00 > 0:32:04- If you venture away from the towns - into rural Vale of Clwyd...
0:32:05 > 0:32:08- ..and you'll be among the finest - scenery Wales has to offer.
0:32:08 > 0:32:13- The likes of Daniel Defoe, Beatrix - Potter and William Wordsworth...
0:32:14 > 0:32:16- ..have all sung the area's praises.
0:32:16 > 0:32:19- Yet, it still retains some secrets.
0:32:19 > 0:32:25- This is Coed Cilygroeslwyd - nature reserve.
0:32:26 > 0:32:29- I've spent a lot of time here - over the years...
0:32:29 > 0:32:32- ..and it's close to where I grew up.
0:32:33 > 0:32:38- But the reserve - is part of a wider woodland.
0:32:38 > 0:32:43- Yes, extending from Pwll-glas - to the town of Ruthin...
0:32:43 > 0:32:45- ..and known as Coed Marchan.
0:32:46 > 0:32:51- It has an interesting history - going back to the Middle Ages...
0:32:51 > 0:32:53- ..when it belonged to Ruthin Castle.
0:32:53 > 0:32:57- It was used for hunting - at that time.
0:32:58 > 0:33:02- Then, later, there was a tannery...
0:33:02 > 0:33:05- ..in Mwrog Street in Ruthin.
0:33:06 > 0:33:09- That industry needed tree bark.
0:33:10 > 0:33:14- So, a lot of these trees - were used at that time.
0:33:14 > 0:33:18- Come the Industrial Revolution, - there was a demand for charcoal.
0:33:19 > 0:33:24- A great many trees - were felled in Coed Marchan.
0:33:25 > 0:33:29- But when demand for coal - took over from charcoal...
0:33:30 > 0:33:34- ..places like Coed Marchan - were left alone...
0:33:34 > 0:33:38- ..and the trees - got a chance to grow again.
0:33:41 > 0:33:44- But there's more to the reserve - than trees.
0:33:51 > 0:33:55- We're coming out of the darkness - now, Heledd...
0:33:55 > 0:33:59- ..to the only part of the reserve - that isn't woodland, the quarry.
0:34:00 > 0:34:02- It's only a small quarry...
0:34:02 > 0:34:07- ..and it hasn't been worked - for a great many years.
0:34:07 > 0:34:12- As a result, the vegetation - has had a chance to flourish.
0:34:12 > 0:34:17- There are interesting plants here...
0:34:17 > 0:34:19- ..some of them rarer than others.
0:34:27 > 0:34:30- There's one very special plant here.
0:34:30 > 0:34:32- It's very rare.
0:34:32 > 0:34:37- This is the only site in Wales - where it grows.
0:34:37 > 0:34:39- That one there?
0:34:40 > 0:34:42- Yes, it's the limestone woundwort.
0:34:42 > 0:34:48- As the name suggests, - it only grows on limestone soil.
0:34:48 > 0:34:51- It's a member of the mint family.
0:34:51 > 0:34:54- You can tell, - the leaves are similar.
0:34:54 > 0:34:59- This is very rare, - confined to this site in Wales...
0:35:00 > 0:35:03- ..and one other site in England.
0:35:03 > 0:35:05- That's it, for the whole of Britain.
0:35:05 > 0:35:06- And only here in Wales?
0:35:06 > 0:35:07- And only here in Wales?- - Yes.
0:35:08 > 0:35:10- Why is it so happy here?
0:35:10 > 0:35:12- Why is it so happy here?- - No-one is very sure.
0:35:12 > 0:35:14- One of the wonders of nature.
0:35:14 > 0:35:16- One of the wonders of nature.- - Yes, a wonder and a mystery.
0:35:26 > 0:35:27- .
0:35:34 > 0:35:34- Subtitles
0:35:34 > 0:35:36- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:35:37 > 0:35:41- More tales of law and order lie - in the shadow of St Peter's tower.
0:35:41 > 0:35:46- The town's buildings seem - more than happy to point them out.
0:35:46 > 0:35:49- If you come to Ruthin, - you'll see the old courthouse.
0:35:50 > 0:35:54- Every criminal had to face it - at one time or another.
0:35:54 > 0:35:59- The last man to be executed - on the square, Charles Meehan...
0:35:59 > 0:36:03- ..was hanged from a beam - on this building in 1679...
0:36:03 > 0:36:08- ..for daring to be a Catholic - at a time when that was illegal.
0:36:11 > 0:36:13- Also on the square is Maen Huail.
0:36:14 > 0:36:17- It's said that on this stone, - Huail, son of Caw...
0:36:18 > 0:36:20- ..was beheaded by King Arthur.
0:36:21 > 0:36:25- His crime was making fun - of Arthur's dancing.
0:36:26 > 0:36:28- I don't recall that story - in any film.
0:36:28 > 0:36:34- But there is one famous building - to do with law and order here.
0:36:34 > 0:36:37- This is now - the oldest building on the site.
0:36:37 > 0:36:40- There's been a prison here - since 1654.
0:36:41 > 0:36:45- But this one was built in 1775.
0:36:45 > 0:36:48- It doesn't look - like a prison, does it?
0:36:49 > 0:36:53- Back then, the regime - was completely different.
0:36:54 > 0:36:58- People were confined temporarily - for fairly short periods.
0:36:59 > 0:37:01- Punishments were physical.
0:37:01 > 0:37:04- We could transport prisoners - overseas at that time.
0:37:05 > 0:37:09- The only longer-term inmates - were debtors, those who owed money.
0:37:10 > 0:37:14- But in 1866, a new wing was built...
0:37:14 > 0:37:16- ..based on Pentonville prison.
0:37:17 > 0:37:19- And that's what this is?
0:37:19 > 0:37:22- This looks more like - my idea of a prison.
0:37:22 > 0:37:26- We've inherited the image - of a prison from Pentonville.
0:37:30 > 0:37:33- It was designed - to hold 520 prisoners...
0:37:33 > 0:37:37- ..in cells - measuring 13 feet by seven.
0:37:37 > 0:37:40- The design was such a success...
0:37:40 > 0:37:44- ..that 54 other prisons - based on Pentonville were built.
0:37:44 > 0:37:47- This is what you expect - from a prison...
0:37:47 > 0:37:51- ..having seen Porridge - and various TV programmes.
0:37:52 > 0:37:57- We've inherited that image from - places like this and Pentonville.
0:37:57 > 0:38:01- Cells all around us, - one in each cell.
0:38:01 > 0:38:05- The people of Denbighshire - wrote to Pentonville...
0:38:05 > 0:38:10- ..to ask for a copy of their design, - then they adapted them.
0:38:11 > 0:38:12- Is it the same size as Pentonville?
0:38:12 > 0:38:14- Is it the same size as Pentonville?- - No, it's smaller.
0:38:15 > 0:38:17- A fifth of Pentonville, in a way.
0:38:17 > 0:38:21- Pentonville is derived from - the prefix penta, meaning five.
0:38:21 > 0:38:26- Ruthin is just the one wing, - which is all that was needed.
0:38:26 > 0:38:28- So, this should be Monoville!
0:38:43 > 0:38:46- Outside the 18-inch thick walls...
0:38:46 > 0:38:50- ..there are darker signs - of the prison's history...
0:38:51 > 0:38:53- ..if you know where to look.
0:38:55 > 0:39:00- One of the stones in the wall behind - me is different from the others.
0:39:00 > 0:39:04- It dates back to 1903.
0:39:04 > 0:39:08- I know that because behind it - is the condemned cell...
0:39:08 > 0:39:13- ..where they kept William Hughes, - the only man to be hanged here.
0:39:13 > 0:39:17- They didn't have - a designated condemned cell...
0:39:17 > 0:39:20- ..so they had to adapt one.
0:39:20 > 0:39:22- William Hughes had killed his wife.
0:39:23 > 0:39:25- It was more or less a process.
0:39:26 > 0:39:28- So, there was an opening there.
0:39:29 > 0:39:33- Yes, they made a hole in the wall - through to William Hughes' cell.
0:39:34 > 0:39:39- He just stepped out of the cell - and was hanged that morning.
0:39:39 > 0:39:42- If it wasn't for that stone, - you wouldn't know.
0:39:54 > 0:39:58- I've made my way to Llannefydd, - not far from Llaeth y Llan farm.
0:39:58 > 0:40:00- But that farm there, Berain...
0:40:00 > 0:40:04- ..was the home of Katherine - of Berain in the 16th century.
0:40:04 > 0:40:07- Her story is worth telling.
0:40:07 > 0:40:09- The parts that are true...
0:40:10 > 0:40:12- ..and the parts that aren't.
0:40:15 > 0:40:17- Katherine married four times.
0:40:17 > 0:40:20- That didn't happen often in her day.
0:40:21 > 0:40:26- Her first marriage ended after - nine years on her husband's death.
0:40:26 > 0:40:30- One story has it that she had - one proposal of marriage...
0:40:30 > 0:40:34- ..on the way into the funeral - and another on the way out.
0:40:34 > 0:40:35- Quite a woman.
0:40:37 > 0:40:39- Sadly, the story's not true.
0:40:40 > 0:40:44- But why spoil a good story - with the facts?
0:40:46 > 0:40:49- Her second husband - was Richard Clough.
0:40:49 > 0:40:52- There are a few tales about him too.
0:40:52 > 0:40:56- Some said that he was a spy - for Elizabeth I.
0:40:57 > 0:41:01- Others claimed that he answered - to someone more sinister.
0:41:04 > 0:41:08- It's said that Katherine peered - through the keyhole one night...
0:41:08 > 0:41:12- ..and saw him chatting - at midnight, with the Devil.
0:41:13 > 0:41:18- A little later, Richard Clough - died suddenly while in Germany.
0:41:18 > 0:41:20- Or did the Devil take him?
0:41:22 > 0:41:24- Katherine married two more times.
0:41:24 > 0:41:28- Through it all, and seeing - her son Thomas executed...
0:41:28 > 0:41:31- ..for attempting - to kill Elizabeth I...
0:41:32 > 0:41:34- ..she stayed true to the area.
0:41:34 > 0:41:39- Having patronized dozens - of poets and artists...
0:41:39 > 0:41:43- ..it's easy to see how she won - the soubriquet "Mother of Wales."
0:41:43 > 0:41:48- She's buried in an unmarked grave - somewhere here at Llannefydd church.
0:41:48 > 0:41:50- Only the stories remain.
0:41:54 > 0:41:59- South of Ruthin - is Craig-adwy-wynt reserve.
0:42:00 > 0:42:03- A Site of Special - Scientific Interest...
0:42:03 > 0:42:06- ..it's home - to an increasingly rare creature.
0:42:07 > 0:42:10- So, this area is - called Craig-adwy-wynt.
0:42:11 > 0:42:12- Yes.
0:42:12 > 0:42:15- It's quite a substantial area.
0:42:17 > 0:42:19- It's limestone once again...
0:42:19 > 0:42:24- ..but this end of the rock - has been designated as a reserve...
0:42:24 > 0:42:27- ..specifically for butterflies.
0:42:27 > 0:42:31- I don't know about you, - but when I was younger...
0:42:31 > 0:42:35- ..it felt as if there were - many more species around.
0:42:35 > 0:42:39- There are some - that have always been rare.
0:42:39 > 0:42:43- But some that were considered - to be common a generation ago...
0:42:44 > 0:42:47- ..have become much scarcer.
0:42:48 > 0:42:51- One species that you will see - in this area, Heledd...
0:42:52 > 0:42:56- ..is the pearl-bordered fritillary.
0:42:56 > 0:42:59- There's one over there, actually.
0:43:00 > 0:43:02- It's a pretty butterfly.
0:43:02 > 0:43:06- The fritillary family - are all attractive.
0:43:06 > 0:43:09- An orange and black pattern.
0:43:09 > 0:43:11- They really are attractive.
0:43:11 > 0:43:14- We've been lucky enough - to see one today.
0:43:14 > 0:43:17- Why do they like this place?
0:43:18 > 0:43:20- What attracts them - here in particular?
0:43:20 > 0:43:24- They lay their eggs - on violet plants.
0:43:25 > 0:43:28- The caterpillars - also feed on violets.
0:43:28 > 0:43:31- Violets are common enough.
0:43:32 > 0:43:36- It's a combination - of available food and the site.
0:43:36 > 0:43:40- It's an open aspect, - with different plants.
0:43:42 > 0:43:44- It's perfect for them.
0:43:46 > 0:43:50- How do you see the future - for butterflies?
0:43:51 > 0:43:56- There are numerous species - of butterfly.
0:43:56 > 0:44:02- Some are very common, - and seen in a variety of habitats.
0:44:02 > 0:44:07- Others are seen - in very specific habitats.
0:44:07 > 0:44:10- Their needs are specific.
0:44:10 > 0:44:15- All we can do is provide - the best conditions for them...
0:44:15 > 0:44:18- ..as far as habitats - are concerned...
0:44:18 > 0:44:23- ..and make sure that the plants - on which they rely are available.
0:44:24 > 0:44:27- But there are - wider concerns as well.
0:44:27 > 0:44:29- Matters like global warming.
0:44:29 > 0:44:32- No-one knows for sure - how such a thing...
0:44:33 > 0:44:38- ..can affect small creatures - like the pearl-bordered fritillary.
0:44:53 > 0:44:56- Ruthin Gaol - has been closed since 1916.
0:44:57 > 0:45:01- But stories about one prisoner - are still told by local people.
0:45:02 > 0:45:05- I'm honoured to visit his cell.
0:45:05 > 0:45:09- We're on the ground floor - of the Pentonville block.
0:45:10 > 0:45:15- The regime banned prisoners - from talking to each other at all.
0:45:15 > 0:45:17- There was a system in place...
0:45:17 > 0:45:21- ..to enable those in a cell - to contact staff.
0:45:21 > 0:45:24- A system of wires - that ran to every cell.
0:45:24 > 0:45:28- If you required attention, - you pulled a string in the cell.
0:45:29 > 0:45:32- A flag or something was raised...
0:45:32 > 0:45:36- ..and the man in charge - of each floor of the wing...
0:45:36 > 0:45:39- ..would come to see what was wrong.
0:45:44 > 0:45:46- We'll go into this cell.
0:45:46 > 0:45:48- They're all the same.
0:45:48 > 0:45:53- Coch Bach y Bala would have escaped - from a cell such as this.
0:45:54 > 0:45:55- Have you heard of Coch Bach y Bala?
0:45:55 > 0:45:57- Have you heard of Coch Bach y Bala?- - I have heard the name.
0:45:57 > 0:46:02- He's our most infamous prisoner, - and he escaped from here twice.
0:46:02 > 0:46:03- Twice?
0:46:04 > 0:46:07- He was famous for escaping - from places like this.
0:46:07 > 0:46:10- Here's his mugshot.
0:46:10 > 0:46:12- Here's his mugshot.- - It's a proper mugshot too.
0:46:13 > 0:46:15- He was a serial escaper.
0:46:15 > 0:46:20- He got out of here - by digging a hole in the wall.
0:46:21 > 0:46:25- He'd already fashioned a rope - out of bedlinen.
0:46:25 > 0:46:29- Out he went, down to the ground...
0:46:29 > 0:46:32- ..then up again, - and he ran around the wall.
0:46:32 > 0:46:37- He jumped off the wall into - a haystack on the adjacent farm...
0:46:38 > 0:46:43- ..then into woodland - near Llanfair Dyffryn Clwyd.
0:46:43 > 0:46:46- Eventually, he was found...
0:46:47 > 0:46:50- ..by a gentleman - called Reginald Jones-Bateman.
0:46:50 > 0:46:52- He shot him in the leg.
0:46:54 > 0:46:59- Coch Bach had threatened him - with a metal object in his belt.
0:46:59 > 0:47:02- Jones-Bateman thought - it was a revolver and shot him.
0:47:03 > 0:47:04- Dead?
0:47:04 > 0:47:08- Dead?- - He died of shock and loss of blood.
0:47:08 > 0:47:13- And that was the end of him. - What an interesting story.
0:47:24 > 0:47:29- Whether in historic buildings, - in caves or in the open air...
0:47:30 > 0:47:33- ..there are - striking stories everywhere.
0:47:33 > 0:47:37- You know you're in - a very special part of the country.
0:47:38 > 0:47:43- People were treading the soil here - 250,000 years ago.
0:47:44 > 0:47:49- New industries are also - taking root in the soil here.
0:47:49 > 0:47:53- The past, the present - and the future combine...
0:47:53 > 0:47:56- ..and each of them - shown the same respect.
0:47:57 > 0:48:00- That's what turns a place - into a habitat.
0:48:16 > 0:48:18- S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.
0:48:18 > 0:48:18- .