0:00:00 > 0:00:00- *
0:00:01 > 0:00:06- Wales has a history of rebellion - through the centuries.
0:00:08 > 0:00:12- It was also a cradle - for the Industrial Revolution.
0:00:12 > 0:00:15- It's easy to take - our industries for granted.
0:00:15 > 0:00:18- It somehow feels - as if they've always been here.
0:00:18 > 0:00:22- There was no Twitter - to air grievances 200 years ago.
0:00:23 > 0:00:26- You had to stand up and act.
0:00:28 > 0:00:32- This programme - comes from Merthyr Tydfil.
0:00:32 > 0:00:35- It may be a small area, - but it has lots to offer...
0:00:36 > 0:00:41- ..from the splendour of the wealthy - ironmasters and innovators...
0:00:41 > 0:00:44- ..to the remains - of heavy industries.
0:00:50 > 0:00:51- This is hard work!
0:01:02 > 0:01:07- Although an industrial town, - Merthyr Tydfil is in a scenic area.
0:01:08 > 0:01:11- To the south, - the valleys head towards Cardiff.
0:01:11 > 0:01:16- To the north, the Brecon Beacons - draw adventurers from far and wide.
0:01:19 > 0:01:25- As you can see from here, - industry is only part of the story.
0:01:25 > 0:01:31- Perhaps this area transforms itself - faster than any other part of Wales.
0:01:31 > 0:01:34- This is our habitat.
0:01:45 > 0:01:50- Merthyr Tydfil's development - is comparatively unusual.
0:01:50 > 0:01:52- It's not a market town or a port...
0:01:52 > 0:01:56- ..and it can't trace its development - back over millennia.
0:01:56 > 0:02:01- At the end of the 17th century, - there were only 40 houses here.
0:02:01 > 0:02:07- But the population exploded such, - thanks to the iron industries...
0:02:07 > 0:02:12- ..that Merthyr Tydfil - was once Wales' most populous town.
0:02:14 > 0:02:20- The heavy industries have long gone, - but over 60,000 still live here.
0:02:20 > 0:02:25- Young people are bringing a spark - and an energy to the town's future.
0:02:29 > 0:02:32- We've come to Dowlais today...
0:02:33 > 0:02:37- ..because there's a room here named - after my John Owen, my grandfather.
0:02:38 > 0:02:41- He was one of the last workers - at the Ifor Works...
0:02:42 > 0:02:45- ..which was the last ironworks - in Dowlais.
0:02:45 > 0:02:48- This is a photo of him - as a young man.
0:02:49 > 0:02:55- This photo was taken - on the day the last cast was made.
0:02:55 > 0:02:59- There were only seven years - between that day and my birth.
0:02:59 > 0:03:01- Even so, it's like some legend.
0:03:02 > 0:03:06- There's a huge difference - between my experience of Merthyr...
0:03:06 > 0:03:12- ..and my grandfather's first-hand - experience of those industries.
0:03:13 > 0:03:14- It's the same, but different...
0:03:15 > 0:03:18- ..like returning to somewhere - familiar yet unfamiliar.
0:03:18 > 0:03:20- But the way you tell it...
0:03:20 > 0:03:24- ..local people - are still proud of Merthyr Tydfil.
0:03:24 > 0:03:26- Extremely proud.
0:03:26 > 0:03:28- It may be be - one of the few things left.
0:03:29 > 0:03:32- So many buildings have been lost, - but the history remains.
0:03:33 > 0:03:36- That's why people - hold onto it so tightly.
0:03:37 > 0:03:41- But I think Merthyr as a town - has a reputation beyond its size.
0:03:41 > 0:03:45- Its reputation - is so much bigger than the place.
0:03:48 > 0:03:52- There's a reason - why Merthyr is so well known.
0:03:53 > 0:03:57- It played a pivotal role - in the Industrial Revolution...
0:03:58 > 0:04:01- ..and also in the revolution - of the working class.
0:04:09 > 0:04:13- Today, I'm on the trail - of the Merthyr Rising...
0:04:13 > 0:04:18- ..the industrial action that started - a war between workers and masters.
0:04:19 > 0:04:22- From the town centre, - I'll head to Penydarren Park...
0:04:22 > 0:04:28- ..before focusing on the man who - became a symbol of the uprising...
0:04:28 > 0:04:30- ..Dic Penderyn.
0:04:30 > 0:04:34- Merthyr lay in the shadow - of numerous ironworks...
0:04:35 > 0:04:37- ..like this one, Cyfarthfa.
0:04:37 > 0:04:42- Over a third of Merthyr's population - worked in the iron industry...
0:04:42 > 0:04:46- ..for two very wealthy families, - the Guests and the Crawshays.
0:04:48 > 0:04:51- The town and the industry, - were having a tough time.
0:04:52 > 0:04:56- The price of iron was low, - and ordinary people were suffering.
0:04:56 > 0:05:01- In 1830, bailiffs entered the home - of an old lady, Margaret Rees...
0:05:01 > 0:05:05- ..dragged her from her bed - and left her dying in the street.
0:05:05 > 0:05:09- With growing tension - between workers and masters...
0:05:09 > 0:05:11- ..something had to change.
0:05:11 > 0:05:13- The protests lacked focus.
0:05:14 > 0:05:17- There was no clear leader - or distinct aim...
0:05:17 > 0:05:22- ..but it sparked a movement - that began right here in Merthyr.
0:05:23 > 0:05:25- Before long, - it would shake the world.
0:05:28 > 0:05:31- The rising - and the working class leaders...
0:05:31 > 0:05:35- ..aren't the only people - remembered in Merthyr.
0:05:35 > 0:05:39- The home of musician Joseph Parry...
0:05:39 > 0:05:43- ..who composed Aberystwyth - and Myfanwy, still stands here.
0:05:44 > 0:05:48- One particular project brings - a poet and an artist together...
0:05:48 > 0:05:53- ..to ensure that these historic - buildings will never be forgotten.
0:05:53 > 0:05:58- I'm working on a drawing - of Chapel Row.
0:05:58 > 0:06:01- I'll also include Dowlais...
0:06:02 > 0:06:05- ..the windows of Dowlais and so on.
0:06:05 > 0:06:10- This is part of a special project - that you're both involved with.
0:06:10 > 0:06:14- It's a joint project - between the two of us...
0:06:14 > 0:06:16- ..combining art and poetry.
0:06:17 > 0:06:21- I'm very passionate - about architecture...
0:06:22 > 0:06:26- ..and the idea that architecture - can reflect the history of a place.
0:06:26 > 0:06:31- In my first week as a student - at the University of Liverpool...
0:06:31 > 0:06:35- ..I was given a project - to draw several buildings.
0:06:35 > 0:06:39- One of them struck me - as particularly interesting.
0:06:39 > 0:06:43- Within a week, it was demolished, - and I wasn't aware of that fact.
0:06:43 > 0:06:48- A building disappearing can have - a psychological effect on residents.
0:06:48 > 0:06:50- It's happened to you, in a way.
0:06:50 > 0:06:55- The sadness that so many buildings - in Merthyr have been lost.
0:06:55 > 0:07:00- Merthyr is infamous - for architectural loss.
0:07:00 > 0:07:05- Considering that it was once the - world's leading industrial centre...
0:07:05 > 0:07:09- ..so few things remain - to attest to that rich history.
0:07:09 > 0:07:11- When you lose buildings...
0:07:11 > 0:07:15- ..you lose more than architecture - and physical structures.
0:07:16 > 0:07:17- Time is breached.
0:07:17 > 0:07:20- A part of the fabric of the town - is now missing.
0:07:20 > 0:07:25- You have examples - of drawings you've done in Cardiff.
0:07:25 > 0:07:27- I take it from the tiger..
0:07:27 > 0:07:29- Yes, this is Butetown.
0:07:30 > 0:07:31- This is Splott.
0:07:31 > 0:07:35- The idea of the other Dowlais works - that was in that part of Cardiff.
0:07:36 > 0:07:41- Workers from the valleys - went to work in the works in Splott.
0:07:42 > 0:07:45- That's why Welsh - stayed stronger in Splott...
0:07:45 > 0:07:48- ..longer than it did - in other parts of Cardiff.
0:07:49 > 0:07:53- At the turn of the century, - most people in Merthyr spoke Welsh.
0:07:54 > 0:07:57- Those workers - were transplanted to Splott.
0:07:58 > 0:08:00- So, Welsh was stronger there.
0:08:01 > 0:08:06- Do you think there is such a thing - as Welsh architecture?
0:08:06 > 0:08:11- Looking at the architecture - of these cottages in particular...
0:08:11 > 0:08:15- ..they are a little larger - than typical valley houses.
0:08:16 > 0:08:21- I'm given to understand - that they housed ironworkers...
0:08:21 > 0:08:25- ..who were more skilled - than ordinary workers.
0:08:26 > 0:08:30- It's sad that they wouldn't - have survived as they have...
0:08:30 > 0:08:34- ..if Joseph Parry - hadn't been born and raised here.
0:08:34 > 0:08:38- If it wasn't for that link - with someone famous...
0:08:38 > 0:08:40- ..or comparatively famous, - at least...
0:08:40 > 0:08:44- ..these houses - would also have been demolished.
0:09:01 > 0:09:06- The Taff Trail runs over 55 miles - from Cardiff to Brecon...
0:09:06 > 0:09:09- ..past some of South Wales' wonders.
0:09:09 > 0:09:13- This leisurely section, - through Cefncoedycymer...
0:09:14 > 0:09:16- ..seems unremarkable from here.
0:09:16 > 0:09:21- But to be exact, the path doesn't - actually go through the village.
0:09:21 > 0:09:24- It goes over it.
0:09:24 > 0:09:28- Walkers and cyclists - use this path today...
0:09:28 > 0:09:31- ..but years ago, it was different.
0:09:31 > 0:09:35- In the 1860s, work began - on building the viaduct...
0:09:35 > 0:09:38- ..to link Merthyr Tydfil - with Brecon.
0:09:38 > 0:09:44- Railways spread like fireworks - across the country at the time...
0:09:44 > 0:09:47- ..but laying tracks - wasn't without its problems.
0:09:48 > 0:09:51- This viaduct is unique, - in that it's curved.
0:09:52 > 0:09:56- That was to avoid land owned - by ironmaster Robert Crawshay...
0:09:56 > 0:09:59- ..who didn't want - such a thing near it.
0:10:02 > 0:10:06- It cost a total of 25,000.
0:10:07 > 0:10:09- That's about 2 million - in modern terms.
0:10:09 > 0:10:13- Small change, given the importance - of trains to the area.
0:10:13 > 0:10:18- But it's important to remember - the importance of this area...
0:10:18 > 0:10:22- ..to the development of the railway - industry in the first place.
0:10:23 > 0:10:25- You could say - that it all began here.
0:10:27 > 0:10:27- .
0:10:33 > 0:10:33- *
0:10:34 > 0:10:36- For a century up to the 1960s...
0:10:37 > 0:10:41- ..the Brecon and Merthyr Railway - ran north of Merthyr Tydfil...
0:10:41 > 0:10:46- ..part of a railway network - that carried cargo and passengers...
0:10:46 > 0:10:48- ..across the South Wales Valleys.
0:10:48 > 0:10:52- Today, the Brecon - Mountain Railway runs here.
0:10:52 > 0:10:55- It has carried tourists - for almost 50 years now.
0:10:56 > 0:11:00- But trains ran through Merthyr - Tydfil long before this line.
0:11:00 > 0:11:03- Long before any line, actually.
0:11:03 > 0:11:07- If we think of early trains, - some names quickly spring to mind.
0:11:08 > 0:11:10- At the top, Stephenson's Rocket.
0:11:10 > 0:11:12- But 25 years before the Rocket...
0:11:12 > 0:11:18- ..a young industry was taking its - first steps here in Merthyr Tydfil.
0:11:29 > 0:11:34- In 1803, Samuel Homfray, - owner of Penydarren Ironworks...
0:11:34 > 0:11:37- ..went to Cornwall to meet - a colourful young engineer...
0:11:38 > 0:11:41- ..who knew steam engines - better than anyone.
0:11:41 > 0:11:44- His name was Richard Trevithick.
0:11:44 > 0:11:48- Homfray wanted Trevithick - to devise a steam hammer...
0:11:48 > 0:11:52- ..but on arriving in Merthyr, - the Cornishman had another idea.
0:11:53 > 0:11:58- There were 9.5 miles of tram tracks - between Penydarren and Abercynon.
0:11:58 > 0:12:02- This was perfect - for what Trevithick had in mind.
0:12:02 > 0:12:06- Ponies and wagons hauled the trams - along the tracks back then.
0:12:07 > 0:12:10- But Trevithick thought - that he had a better idea.
0:12:11 > 0:12:16- He designed - a fairly Gothic-looking machine...
0:12:16 > 0:12:20- ..a huge beast - with wheels everywhere...
0:12:20 > 0:12:25- ..pistons and a narrow chimney - coughing steam everywhere.
0:12:26 > 0:12:32- Ultimately, it came down to a bet - between Homfray and the Crawshays.
0:12:33 > 0:12:36- Could Trevithick's engine...
0:12:36 > 0:12:40- ..haul ten tons of iron - the whole way?
0:12:41 > 0:12:44- The prize? 500 guineas.
0:12:44 > 0:12:48- About 40,000 in today's money.
0:12:51 > 0:12:56- It was a February morning in 1804 - when the engine set off.
0:12:56 > 0:12:59- It's easy for us - to laugh at the scene.
0:12:59 > 0:13:03- This clumsy black engine - crawling along the tracks...
0:13:03 > 0:13:05- ..at five miles per hour.
0:13:05 > 0:13:09- But for people then, - it must have seemed miraculous.
0:13:09 > 0:13:12- That's why 70 local wags - climbed onto the engine...
0:13:13 > 0:13:16- ..more than doubling its weight...
0:13:16 > 0:13:19- ..and becoming - the first train passengers!
0:13:21 > 0:13:23- Trevithick marched - ahead of the engine...
0:13:24 > 0:13:29- ..checking the track and listening - for strange noises from the engine.
0:13:29 > 0:13:33- You can imagine the celebrations - once they reached Abercynon...
0:13:33 > 0:13:35- ..four hours later.
0:13:36 > 0:13:41- Trevithick hadn't fully grasped the - significance of the new invention.
0:13:41 > 0:13:46- Its development was left to others, - like George and Robert Stephenson.
0:13:46 > 0:13:53- But when Stephenson's Rocket - made its maiden trip in 1830...
0:13:53 > 0:13:58- ..the iron for the tracks - came from Penydarren.
0:13:59 > 0:14:04- Another invaluable contribution - by this area to the rail industry.
0:14:12 > 0:14:16- Industry and history are - an integral part of Merthyr Tydfil.
0:14:17 > 0:14:20- You need only scratch the surface - to realize...
0:14:20 > 0:14:24- ..that these influences leave - their mark on everyone in some way.
0:14:27 > 0:14:30- I don't always start with charcoal.
0:14:33 > 0:14:36- It doesn't really matter - what I start with...
0:14:36 > 0:14:38- ..because it's gone at the end.
0:14:45 > 0:14:48- Sometimes, I'll start - with a clear idea...
0:14:48 > 0:14:50- ..and it doesn't change much.
0:14:50 > 0:14:54- But it can sometimes - change completely.
0:15:03 > 0:15:06- Political history - is very important in Merthyr.
0:15:06 > 0:15:09- I think that comes out in my work.
0:15:15 > 0:15:17- It's an interesting question.
0:15:17 > 0:15:21- Would my work look different - if I lived somewhere else?
0:15:21 > 0:15:22- I'm not sure.
0:15:28 > 0:15:31- Originally, - after finishing college...
0:15:31 > 0:15:34- ..my work reacted - to the here and now.
0:15:38 > 0:15:40- But since my children were born...
0:15:40 > 0:15:45- ..I've thought much more about - the future, where we are going.
0:15:48 > 0:15:52- We look at history - through rose-tinted glasses.
0:15:53 > 0:15:57- Yes, history is important, - but we mustn't forget the future.
0:15:57 > 0:16:01- We have to ask the question, - how can we make things better?
0:16:08 > 0:16:12- The streets of Williamstown - are a rare example...
0:16:12 > 0:16:16- ..of working-class houses - in Merthyr Tydfil.
0:16:16 > 0:16:19- Unexpectedly, - it wasn't just the men...
0:16:19 > 0:16:22- ..who worked - in the heavy industries.
0:16:23 > 0:16:25- Some people might not be aware...
0:16:25 > 0:16:29- ..that women were employed - in the ironworks.
0:16:29 > 0:16:32- Some jobs were only done by women.
0:16:32 > 0:16:35- For example, - they worked in the brickworks...
0:16:35 > 0:16:38- ..making bricks - to line the furnaces.
0:16:38 > 0:16:41- Women also did very heavy work...
0:16:41 > 0:16:44- ..cutting limestone - with huge hammers.
0:16:45 > 0:16:48- Women were also employed - as pilers...
0:16:49 > 0:16:52- ..stacking coal - ready for the furnaces.
0:16:53 > 0:16:58- They also worked with the coals - that came out of the furnaces.
0:16:58 > 0:17:01- The tip girls, as they were called.
0:17:01 > 0:17:06- They loaded the stuff onto the trams - and unloaded it onto the tips.
0:17:06 > 0:17:11- 780 women worked - at the Dowlais works.
0:17:11 > 0:17:14- Of those, 20% were under 18.
0:17:19 > 0:17:22- Life for women - in the ironmasters' families...
0:17:22 > 0:17:27- ..was very different to that - of the women of Williamstown.
0:17:27 > 0:17:32- But the likes of Rose Crawshay and - Charlotte Guest did their best...
0:17:32 > 0:17:35- ..to improve the lives - of the workforce.
0:17:36 > 0:17:39- The splendour of the gardens - at Cyfarthfa Castle...
0:17:39 > 0:17:44- ..reflects the wealth - of the Crawshay family at the time.
0:17:44 > 0:17:48- The name Crawshay - rankles greatly with many people...
0:17:49 > 0:17:53- ..which may not be very fair - to the wife, Rose Crawshay.
0:17:53 > 0:17:57- You're right, - the name Crawshay does that.
0:17:57 > 0:18:01- Everyone's familiar with Richard - Crawshay and the men...
0:18:01 > 0:18:04- ..but may be less familiar - with the women.
0:18:04 > 0:18:07- Rose Crawshay was quite remarkable.
0:18:07 > 0:18:12- She wanted to improve the lot - of women of that age.
0:18:12 > 0:18:18- She was a member of an organization - that supported women's suffrage...
0:18:18 > 0:18:24- ..and campaigned for women's rights - in divorce cases, for example...
0:18:24 > 0:18:28- ..and childcare, - and she worked extremely hard.
0:18:29 > 0:18:33- Even so, - the names of the wealthy families...
0:18:33 > 0:18:37- ..are still held in contempt - in the town.
0:18:37 > 0:18:41- Many question if the work to improve - workers' living conditions...
0:18:42 > 0:18:44- ..was merely philanthropy...
0:18:44 > 0:18:48- ..or rather an attempt to tame them - and prevent any revolt.
0:18:50 > 0:18:52- Taking all this - into consideration...
0:18:53 > 0:18:55- ..do you think - it was a cynical scheme?
0:18:56 > 0:19:00- There is a cynical element, - but good work was done.
0:19:00 > 0:19:05- The wives of the ironmasters - played an important role in that.
0:19:06 > 0:19:09- You might have heard - of Lady Charlotte Guest.
0:19:09 > 0:19:12- She came to Merthyr - as a young woman, about 18.
0:19:13 > 0:19:16- She married a man - who was much older than her...
0:19:16 > 0:19:19- ..Josiah John Guest, - owner of the Dowlais works.
0:19:20 > 0:19:24- When she came here, she became - interested in Welsh and learnt it.
0:19:25 > 0:19:29- She became famous, of course, - for translating the Mabinogi.
0:19:30 > 0:19:34- The people of Merthyr held Lady - Charlotte Guest in high regard.
0:19:35 > 0:19:38- She was a great believer - in education.
0:19:38 > 0:19:44- She did think that a good education - was important, as she had received.
0:19:44 > 0:19:48- She wanted children and adults - to be given opportunities.
0:19:49 > 0:19:51- She had a plan to establish schools.
0:19:52 > 0:19:56- A lot of the profits of Dowlais - was spent on establishing schools.
0:19:57 > 0:19:59- She was prominent in that respect.
0:20:16 > 0:20:19- Today, I'm on the trail - of the Merthyr Rising.
0:20:21 > 0:20:27- As May 1831 went on, the Merthyr - Rising grew ever more fervent.
0:20:28 > 0:20:30- There were protests every night.
0:20:31 > 0:20:35- At the end of the month, a gathering - was held on the moor above Dowlais.
0:20:35 > 0:20:39- That's when some names - first came to prominence.
0:20:39 > 0:20:43- Dic Dywyll was a blind man - who gave a long speech...
0:20:43 > 0:20:48- ..drawing workers' attention - to the ironmasters' huge salaries...
0:20:48 > 0:20:51- ..and Lewis Lewis, - Lewsyn yr Heliwr...
0:20:51 > 0:20:54- ..the most influential figure - of the entire rebellion.
0:20:56 > 0:21:01- Lewsyn led the men, standing - in front of them, fist raised.
0:21:01 > 0:21:07- The men in turn followed him, - chanting Welsh slogans.
0:21:11 > 0:21:17- On 2 June, Lewsyn yr Heliwr led the - men down to the old Castle Hotel.
0:21:18 > 0:21:24- While local businessmen met inside, - Lewsyn and his men stood outside...
0:21:24 > 0:21:27- ..demanding a fair price for bread - and wage rises.
0:21:27 > 0:21:30- Between the two factions - stood the army.
0:21:32 > 0:21:36- After the demands were refused, - the army's weapons were stolen...
0:21:37 > 0:21:42- ..and turned against them - in a battle on Merthyr's streets.
0:21:42 > 0:21:46- All the authorities could do - was make the odd arrest...
0:21:46 > 0:21:50- ..in an attempt to maintain - some sort of order.
0:21:50 > 0:21:52- One detainee was Lewsyn yr Heliwr.
0:21:52 > 0:21:56- The other is a man whose name - is now in the history books.
0:21:58 > 0:22:01- The workers ruled the town for days.
0:22:01 > 0:22:06- Eighteen members of the public were - killed, and hundreds were injured.
0:22:08 > 0:22:13- The ironmasters managed to flee - to Penydarren House down the road...
0:22:13 > 0:22:15- ..and locked the doors behind them.
0:22:21 > 0:22:26- The work done by Richard Trevithick - here in Merthyr Tydfil...
0:22:26 > 0:22:29- ..was pivotal to the development - of the steam train.
0:22:30 > 0:22:34- After his engine successfully hauled - ten tons of iron and 70 men...
0:22:34 > 0:22:39- ..you could say that this was - the world's first passenger train.
0:22:39 > 0:22:43- But ask most people - who invented the steam train...
0:22:43 > 0:22:46- ..and not many - would say Richard Trevithick.
0:22:55 > 0:22:58- By the time trains - came to the fore in the 1830s...
0:22:58 > 0:23:02- ..Richard Trevithick - barely had a penny to his name...
0:23:02 > 0:23:06- ..even though he'd made - lots of other people wealthy.
0:23:06 > 0:23:10- He returned from South America, - after numerous failed ventures...
0:23:11 > 0:23:15- ..and the patent for his Penydarren - locomotive had been lost.
0:23:19 > 0:23:23- In 1833, - Trevithick died of pneumonia.
0:23:23 > 0:23:27- There were no friends or relatives - by his deathbed...
0:23:27 > 0:23:30- ..and he was buried - in an unmarked grave.
0:23:30 > 0:23:32- But his name hasn't been forgotten.
0:23:33 > 0:23:35- A society has been named after him.
0:23:35 > 0:23:38- Statues, buildings - and streets commemorate him...
0:23:39 > 0:23:43- ..in Cornwall, Cardiff, - Dartford, London and Abercynon...
0:23:43 > 0:23:45- ..and here - in Merthyr Tydfil, of course.
0:23:47 > 0:23:52- But it's sad, somehow, - that such a talented innovator...
0:23:54 > 0:23:58- ..didn't receive the recognition - he deserved while he was alive.
0:24:01 > 0:24:01- .
0:24:08 > 0:24:08- Subtitles
0:24:08 > 0:24:10- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:24:14 > 0:24:19- We're on the trail of Merthyr - Tydfil's remarkable history.
0:24:19 > 0:24:24- No story is bigger - than that of the Merthyr Rising...
0:24:24 > 0:24:29- ..when thousands of workers - revolted against the ironmasters.
0:24:33 > 0:24:37- Every year, tens of thousands - of football fans...
0:24:37 > 0:24:40- ..come here to Penydarren Park.
0:24:40 > 0:24:42- But in June 1831...
0:24:42 > 0:24:46- ..with the Merthyr Rising - taking over the streets...
0:24:46 > 0:24:49- ..the welcome here - was much more tepid.
0:24:51 > 0:24:54- This is the old site - of Penydarren House's gardens...
0:24:55 > 0:24:57- ..home of the Homfray family.
0:24:57 > 0:25:02- Much of the Merthyr Rising's history - is focused on the workers.
0:25:02 > 0:25:06- But another battle was brewing - between the ironmasters themselves.
0:25:07 > 0:25:11- They shared politics and beliefs - but weren't all that united.
0:25:11 > 0:25:16- The Guests from Dowlais didn't like - the Crawshays from Cyfarthfa.
0:25:16 > 0:25:20- They viewed Cyfarthfa Castle - as a mere folly...
0:25:20 > 0:25:24- ..and couldn't abide William - Crawshay's very short temper.
0:25:25 > 0:25:30- But Penydarren ironmaster Samuel - Homfray's temper was even worse.
0:25:30 > 0:25:32- He lived at Penydarren House.
0:25:32 > 0:25:35- For a time, - during the Merthyr Rising...
0:25:35 > 0:25:38- ..the ironmasters - were under his roof...
0:25:38 > 0:25:42- ..having locked themselves in - to flee the madness outside.
0:25:44 > 0:25:47- At the root of all this - was business and money.
0:25:47 > 0:25:50- The Guests were wealthier - than the Crawshays...
0:25:51 > 0:25:53- ..who were wealthier - than the Homfrays.
0:25:53 > 0:25:55- Nothing has changed.
0:25:55 > 0:25:59- But unlike some other - British industrialists...
0:25:59 > 0:26:02- ..they lived in Merthyr - and made their homes here.
0:26:03 > 0:26:06- Both the Crawshays - and Guests spoke Welsh...
0:26:07 > 0:26:10- ..not that it was - of much comfort to the workers.
0:26:10 > 0:26:14- Outside Penydarren House, - the town was being torn apart.
0:26:14 > 0:26:17- In Hirwaun, - the workers killed a calf...
0:26:18 > 0:26:20- ..and soaked a flag in its blood.
0:26:20 > 0:26:22- The red flag.
0:26:22 > 0:26:24- The same red flag - that would be adopted...
0:26:25 > 0:26:28- ..by workers' movements - all over the world.
0:26:28 > 0:26:32- With people from Yorkshire to London - taking notice...
0:26:32 > 0:26:35- ..and workers - all over Britain rousing...
0:26:35 > 0:26:38- ..the authorities - had to stop things quickly.
0:26:43 > 0:26:47- Cyfarthfa Castle was the grand home - of the Crawshay family...
0:26:47 > 0:26:51- ..who made their fortune - in the iron industry.
0:26:51 > 0:26:53- By today, - it's a tourist attraction.
0:26:55 > 0:26:58- Part of the castle - houses Merthyr Tydfil's museum.
0:26:58 > 0:27:02- But for almost 70 years, - until the 1980s...
0:27:02 > 0:27:05- ..the building - had a very different purpose.
0:27:05 > 0:27:10- Hundreds of local children knew it - as Cyfarthfa Castle Grammar School.
0:27:11 > 0:27:15- I spent seven years here...
0:27:15 > 0:27:19- ..between 1954 and 1961, - but I never came to this room.
0:27:19 > 0:27:22- This was the staffroom at the time.
0:27:22 > 0:27:23- It's very grand.
0:27:24 > 0:27:26- It is now, but it wasn't then.
0:27:26 > 0:27:30- In the far end - was the headmaster's room.
0:27:32 > 0:27:37- This was the corridor - where the headmaster...
0:27:37 > 0:27:40- ..and all the teachers...
0:27:40 > 0:27:44- ..strode grandly - towards that door...
0:27:44 > 0:27:48- ..where the hall was, and where - the daily morning service was held.
0:27:50 > 0:27:55- Unfortunately, only the museum - section of the former school...
0:27:55 > 0:27:57- ..is safe enough to explore today.
0:27:58 > 0:28:03- But clear traces remain outside, - bringing back happy memories.
0:28:04 > 0:28:08- It's an inspiring place - in which to go to school.
0:28:08 > 0:28:12- It's a striking and majestic - castellated building.
0:28:12 > 0:28:17- It was considered to be - an exceptional school in Merthyr.
0:28:17 > 0:28:21- There was another grammar school - in Merthyr, the County...
0:28:21 > 0:28:25- ..but the County School - wasn't as good as Cyfarthfa.
0:28:25 > 0:28:31- Cyfarthfa Castle Grammar School, - the former home of the Crawshays.
0:28:32 > 0:28:36- We used to walk through that door - into the school.
0:28:36 > 0:28:39- On the wall in front of us...
0:28:39 > 0:28:43- ..we were greeted by pictures - of successful former pupils.
0:28:43 > 0:28:46- Gwyn Alf Williams, Glanmor Williams.
0:28:47 > 0:28:49- They were the first things we saw.
0:28:51 > 0:28:55- One teacher in particular - inspired his pupils...
0:28:55 > 0:28:57- ..and kindled lifelong passions.
0:29:01 > 0:29:06- This was the important room for me, - the classroom of Arthur Harris.
0:29:07 > 0:29:10- I spent three years here...
0:29:11 > 0:29:15- ..at the feet - of this Gamaliel among teachers.
0:29:16 > 0:29:22- Arthur always emphasized - the value of first-hand experiences.
0:29:22 > 0:29:27- To get first-hand experiences, - you had to leave the classroom...
0:29:28 > 0:29:30- ..and go out into the field.
0:29:30 > 0:29:34- Go to local quarries - to savour the thrill...
0:29:34 > 0:29:38- ..of coming across - some of the minerals in the rocks...
0:29:38 > 0:29:42- ..and, better still, - some of the fossils in the rocks.
0:29:42 > 0:29:48- Personally, coming here today - is a very sad experience.
0:29:48 > 0:29:54- Not just because this classroom - has now been lost...
0:29:54 > 0:30:00- ..but also because this is one - of Merthyr's landmark buildings.
0:30:01 > 0:30:03- The home of the Crawshays...
0:30:04 > 0:30:08- ..the most important ironmasters - in this area.
0:30:08 > 0:30:11- By now, - substantial parts of the building...
0:30:12 > 0:30:15- ..have gone to the dogs, - make no bones about it.
0:30:30 > 0:30:33- You can't walk through Merthyr...
0:30:33 > 0:30:36- ..without noticing the statues - of boxing heroes.
0:30:37 > 0:30:40- As well as those - who made their mark in the ring...
0:30:40 > 0:30:45- ..one son of Merthyr made his mark - as a boxing journalist and author.
0:30:47 > 0:30:51- I was an ordinary news journalist...
0:30:52 > 0:30:56- ..but a vacancy cropped up for - Western Mail boxing correspondent.
0:30:57 > 0:31:00- That's how I started, - about 40 years ago.
0:31:01 > 0:31:05- What is it about the sport - that attracts you?
0:31:05 > 0:31:11- It's always said that you play - football, rugby and cricket.
0:31:11 > 0:31:14- In boxing, no-one plays.
0:31:14 > 0:31:19- It's hard, it's serious - and it's dangerous, I must admit.
0:31:19 > 0:31:21- But there's something about boxing.
0:31:22 > 0:31:24- It provides a thrill - other sports don't.
0:31:25 > 0:31:30- What is it about this area - that turned out so many fine boxers?
0:31:31 > 0:31:34- Most of the men in Merthyr - in days gone by...
0:31:35 > 0:31:37- ..either worked in the pits...
0:31:38 > 0:31:42- ..or in the ironworks in Dowlais.
0:31:42 > 0:31:45- They were hard men, who worked hard.
0:31:45 > 0:31:46- Strong men.
0:31:46 > 0:31:52- That was the way - arguments were sorted out.
0:31:52 > 0:31:56- In Merthyr and all the valleys, - boxing booths came around.
0:31:56 > 0:32:00- They'd go from fair to fair - or from village to village.
0:32:01 > 0:32:05- They'd stay for a weekend, - and local boys got a chance...
0:32:05 > 0:32:10- ..to challenge the semi-professional - boxers in the booths.
0:32:10 > 0:32:14- Boxers like Jim Driscoll - and Jimmy Wilde...
0:32:14 > 0:32:17- ..learnt their craft...
0:32:18 > 0:32:22- ..in the booths against men - of different sizes...
0:32:22 > 0:32:25- ..and different levels of skill...
0:32:25 > 0:32:28- ..or no skill at all!
0:32:28 > 0:32:34- They learnt how to avoid punches - as well as how to throw them.
0:32:42 > 0:32:47- Dowlais Amateur Boxing Club - is still as popular as ever.
0:32:47 > 0:32:51- The town's youngsters - are taught their craft...
0:32:52 > 0:32:56- ..by two men who were trained - by boxing giant Eddie Thomas.
0:33:01 > 0:33:05- At one time, Eddie Thomas, - and it's never been known before...
0:33:05 > 0:33:07- ..and won't be again...
0:33:07 > 0:33:10- ..Eddie Thomas - had the whole Welsh side...
0:33:10 > 0:33:13- ..from the flyweight, that was me...
0:33:13 > 0:33:17- ..right up to light heavyweight.
0:33:17 > 0:33:20- He didn't have a heavyweight, - and that's all.
0:33:20 > 0:33:24- Only one in the Welsh side - wasn't in Eddie Thomas' gym.
0:33:24 > 0:33:25- All of them?
0:33:26 > 0:33:29- Every one of them, all fighting - for Wales at the same time.
0:33:30 > 0:33:31- So, who's that then?
0:33:31 > 0:33:33- That's me and Winstone.
0:33:34 > 0:33:37- We were a good team, - weren't we, Ger?
0:33:37 > 0:33:39- We had a bit of fun, mind.
0:33:42 > 0:33:45- It's clear that boxing - is in the blood in Merthyr.
0:33:46 > 0:33:50- The next generation is just as keen - to share their experiences.
0:33:51 > 0:33:52- What do you like about coming here?
0:33:52 > 0:33:54- What do you like about coming here?- - I like to keep fit.
0:33:54 > 0:33:56- I think it's fun.
0:33:56 > 0:33:59- And it brings colour - to your cheeks!
0:34:00 > 0:34:03- I'm wearing these, - so should I have a go?
0:34:04 > 0:34:05- Me or you?
0:34:05 > 0:34:06- Me or you?- - You go first, then me.
0:34:07 > 0:34:08- Start with a jab.
0:34:08 > 0:34:09- Start with a jab.- - A jab first.
0:34:10 > 0:34:11- Jab, right.
0:34:12 > 0:34:13- Keep them up.
0:34:13 > 0:34:14- Keep them up.- - Keep them up.
0:34:14 > 0:34:16- And hit it hard.
0:34:17 > 0:34:20- And try not to laugh!
0:34:21 > 0:34:21- .
0:34:28 > 0:34:28- Subtitles
0:34:28 > 0:34:30- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:34:30 > 0:34:33- Unlike any other town - in Wales or the world...
0:34:34 > 0:34:37- ..Merthyr Tydfil - has three statues of boxers.
0:34:37 > 0:34:39- They are the town's big heroes.
0:34:39 > 0:34:41- They sweated and bled...
0:34:41 > 0:34:45- ..and literally fought - to leave their mark.
0:34:46 > 0:34:51- Eddie Thomas was the first - major boxing hero in Merthyr.
0:34:51 > 0:34:56- It's said that the statue follows - the town's honourable tradition...
0:34:56 > 0:34:58- ..of defying the authorities...
0:34:58 > 0:35:03- ..by aiming a punch towards - the town hall and its councillors.
0:35:03 > 0:35:05- Howard Winstone - was a world champion...
0:35:06 > 0:35:10- ..and the only Welshman to win gold - at the Cardiff Empire Games.
0:35:11 > 0:35:16- Johnny Owen, the Merthyr Matchstick, - European and Commonwealth champ...
0:35:16 > 0:35:19- ..who went on to fight - for the world championship.
0:35:48 > 0:35:51- If people think about boxing - and Merthyr...
0:35:52 > 0:35:55- ..the first name to come to mind - is Eddie Thomas.
0:35:55 > 0:35:58- Eddie Thomas was a fantastic boxer.
0:35:58 > 0:36:02- He was British champion - at amateur and professional level.
0:36:03 > 0:36:08- After retiring, he became - a fantastic manager and trainer.
0:36:09 > 0:36:13- Eddie didn't become world champion, - but two of his fighters did.
0:36:14 > 0:36:17- Howard Winstone from Merthyr - and Scotsman Ken Buchanan.
0:36:18 > 0:36:21- What kind of boxer - was Howard Winstone?
0:36:22 > 0:36:24- He was like his trainer.
0:36:24 > 0:36:27- He used a straight left.
0:36:27 > 0:36:32- Not many boxers nowadays - box like Howard used to box.
0:36:32 > 0:36:37- He won the Lonsdale Belt - as British champion...
0:36:37 > 0:36:43- ..and went on to challenge Mitsunori - Seki of Japan for the world title.
0:36:43 > 0:36:45- Of course, Winstone won the bout.
0:36:45 > 0:36:47- Of course, Winstone won the bout.- - Terrific.
0:36:47 > 0:36:51- Eddie Thomas and Howard Winstone - then went on to influence...
0:36:51 > 0:36:55- ..another famous boxer - from Merthyr, Johnny Owen.
0:36:56 > 0:36:59- Johnny Owen was the next generation.
0:36:59 > 0:37:03- This photo was taken - before he flew out to Los Angeles...
0:37:04 > 0:37:08- ..to fight for the world title - in what would be his last fight.
0:37:08 > 0:37:10- Were you at the fight?
0:37:10 > 0:37:12- I was there, I was there.
0:37:12 > 0:37:15- Johnny was doing well, fair play.
0:37:15 > 0:37:19- He was ahead on points - until the ninth round.
0:37:19 > 0:37:24- The Mexican, Lupe Pintor, - knocked him down in the ninth.
0:37:24 > 0:37:28- He got up and fought - for another three rounds.
0:37:28 > 0:37:31- But when he went down - in the twelfth round...
0:37:32 > 0:37:33- ..he didn't get up.
0:37:34 > 0:37:40- Lupe Pintor came to Wales - several years later, didn't he?
0:37:40 > 0:37:45- Yes, but Lupe was a bit reticent.
0:37:45 > 0:37:49- He wasn't sure - what kind of welcome awaited him...
0:37:49 > 0:37:54- ..given that he had killed - a local hero.
0:37:54 > 0:37:59- I remember, in the rain - in the town centre...
0:38:00 > 0:38:03- ..Johnny's father and Lupe Pintor...
0:38:03 > 0:38:05- ..arm in arm...
0:38:05 > 0:38:10- ..tears rolling down their faces...
0:38:10 > 0:38:13- ..looking at the statue - of Johnny Owen.
0:38:48 > 0:38:53- In the 1820s, this was the site of - the Guest family's Dowlais stables.
0:38:53 > 0:38:57- It's a prime but rare example - of the town's history.
0:38:57 > 0:39:00- Most of the buildings - may have disappeared...
0:39:00 > 0:39:04- ..but the history of Merthyr and - the Rising is still all around us.
0:39:07 > 0:39:11- By 7 June 1831, - 26 people had been arrested.
0:39:13 > 0:39:15- Clearly, that wasn't enough.
0:39:15 > 0:39:17- Someone had to be punished.
0:39:18 > 0:39:23- Lewsyn yr Heliwr, of course, the - closest the rebels had to a leader.
0:39:24 > 0:39:29- It's said that another leading rebel - met the workers in this pub.
0:39:30 > 0:39:32- Richard Lewis - Dic Penderyn.
0:39:34 > 0:39:36- It was alleged that Dic...
0:39:37 > 0:39:40- ..stabbed Private Donald Black - with a bayonet...
0:39:40 > 0:39:43- ..during the melee - outside the Castle Hotel.
0:39:44 > 0:39:47- But what evidence - did they have to prove it?
0:39:47 > 0:39:48- Almost none.
0:39:49 > 0:39:51- When Dic appeared in court...
0:39:51 > 0:39:56- ..neither the prosecution witness - nor the judge spoke a word of Welsh.
0:39:56 > 0:40:02- Dic was taken to Cardiff - and hanged on 13 August.
0:40:02 > 0:40:06- He was then buried - in unconsecrated land.
0:40:06 > 0:40:09- Lewsyn yr Heliwr - was transported to Australia.
0:40:11 > 0:40:14- Some say that Lewsyn - came back to Merthyr once...
0:40:15 > 0:40:20- ..and was seen in the crowd when - the Taff Vale Railway was opened...
0:40:21 > 0:40:25- ..just to have one more look - at his native town.
0:40:27 > 0:40:30- There's one - even more incredible story...
0:40:30 > 0:40:33- ..about a man - called Ieuan or Ianto Parker.
0:40:34 > 0:40:39- On his deathbed 33 years later, - he confessed that he stabbed Black.
0:40:39 > 0:40:42- That Dic Penderyn - was completely innocent.
0:40:43 > 0:40:47- Whatever the truth, - two weeks after the Rising ended...
0:40:47 > 0:40:50- ..trade unions sprouted - across South Wales.
0:40:50 > 0:40:54- The Red Flag spread out - across the world.
0:40:54 > 0:40:59- The Merthyr Rising and the workers' - efforts will never be forgotten.
0:41:03 > 0:41:09- North of Merthyr, near the Brecon - Beacons, lies Pontsticill reservoir.
0:41:09 > 0:41:11- It hides a sad secret...
0:41:11 > 0:41:16- ..caused by past engineers' - lack of geological understanding.
0:41:18 > 0:41:23- We're more or less on the banks - of Pontsticill reservoir...
0:41:23 > 0:41:27- ..in an area that was - a part of my research area.
0:41:27 > 0:41:32- I served my geological - apprenticeship here.
0:41:32 > 0:41:34- This reservoir is interesting.
0:41:35 > 0:41:37- There is an interesting story...
0:41:37 > 0:41:41- ..initially about Pentwyn reservoir - rather than Pontsticill.
0:41:42 > 0:41:47- That was built, more or less, - where the present reservoir narrows.
0:41:47 > 0:41:50- Sadly, the engineer responsible...
0:41:50 > 0:41:53- ..didn't ask why - the valley narrowed.
0:41:53 > 0:41:57- Had he asked that question, - had he inspected the land...
0:41:57 > 0:42:00- ..he would have realized...
0:42:00 > 0:42:05- ..that in the exact spot - where the dam was built...
0:42:05 > 0:42:09- ..there's a huge block - of limestone...
0:42:09 > 0:42:13- ..in the middle - of the old red sandstone.
0:42:13 > 0:42:16- The reservoir leaked.
0:42:16 > 0:42:20- Fifteen million litres - of water a day.
0:42:20 > 0:42:24- As the water leaked - through the cracks in the rock...
0:42:24 > 0:42:26- ..it weakened the dam itself.
0:42:26 > 0:42:29- The fear was - that the dam would fail...
0:42:29 > 0:42:34- ..and that water would cascade - down the Taf Fechan valley...
0:42:35 > 0:42:38- ..towards Cefncoedycymer - and on to Merthyr...
0:42:39 > 0:42:43- ..destroying homes - and buildings in its wake.
0:42:44 > 0:42:48- There was no way to solve - the problem at Pentwyn itself.
0:42:48 > 0:42:51- They had to create - another reservoir...
0:42:51 > 0:42:55- ..this one, Pontsticill reservoir.
0:42:55 > 0:42:57- What was here before the reservoir?
0:42:57 > 0:43:01- What was here before the reservoir?- - The small village of Pontsticill.
0:43:02 > 0:43:07- They had to pay the price - for the engineer's failure...
0:43:07 > 0:43:13- ..to grasp the nature of the land - at Pentwyn itself.
0:43:13 > 0:43:19- A Welsh-speaking community - was submerged.
0:43:19 > 0:43:22- Not unlike Tryweryn, - in that respect.
0:43:22 > 0:43:24- The only difference...
0:43:24 > 0:43:29- ..is that Tryweryn was drowned - for the benefit of Liverpool...
0:43:29 > 0:43:31- ..the other side of Offa's Dyke.
0:43:31 > 0:43:36- Our own people were responsible - for events in the Taf Fechan valley.
0:43:50 > 0:43:54- As an archaeologist, - what interests me about Merthyr...
0:43:54 > 0:43:56- ..is the industry.
0:43:56 > 0:44:00- But that wouldn't have been here - if it wasn't for the geology.
0:44:00 > 0:44:03- Yes, the geology - was vital for the industry.
0:44:04 > 0:44:07- They needed iron ore - in the first place, naturally.
0:44:07 > 0:44:09- Iron ore was plentiful...
0:44:09 > 0:44:14- ..in the same series of rocks - that bore the coal seams.
0:44:14 > 0:44:18- Coal was also needed - to fire the furnaces.
0:44:18 > 0:44:24- But limestone was also needed - to purify the iron, in effect.
0:44:24 > 0:44:29- All three were readily available - in the Merthyr area.
0:44:29 > 0:44:33- As a geologist, do you think - of yourself as a historian?
0:44:34 > 0:44:35- Of course I do.
0:44:35 > 0:44:37- That's the difference between us.
0:44:38 > 0:44:43- You might confine history - to the past 500,000 years...
0:44:44 > 0:44:50- ..whereas I prefer to go back - over 700 million years.
0:44:50 > 0:44:53- That's when the story - in Wales begins.
0:44:53 > 0:44:58- But that's not old either, - in the context of the world...
0:44:58 > 0:45:02- ..in which case - we're talking about rocks...
0:45:02 > 0:45:05- ..that are 4,000 million years old.
0:45:05 > 0:45:07- It's a matter of perspective!
0:45:07 > 0:45:08- Definitely.
0:45:18 > 0:45:23- Before leaving Merthyr, - I'm back at Joseph Parry's home...
0:45:24 > 0:45:29- ..to see the finished drawing - and to hear the poem it inspired.
0:45:31 > 0:45:33- Efa, let's see the completed work.
0:45:36 > 0:45:37- It's wonderful.
0:45:37 > 0:45:43- As well as Chapel Row itself, - I added Bethesda chapel...
0:45:43 > 0:45:48- ..where Joseph Parry's mother - used to run the Sunday school.
0:45:48 > 0:45:52- That's where he was - first introduced to music.
0:45:53 > 0:45:57- I've portrayed Dowlais as it looked - when the ironworks were open...
0:45:58 > 0:46:02- ..and how it looked - when Joseph Parry was growing up.
0:46:02 > 0:46:08- It's lovely, so let's hear the poem - to complete the picture, Morgan.
0:46:09 > 0:46:12- My curse was to eventually - understand her from afar
0:46:13 > 0:46:16- And learning to understand her - was the final exile.
0:46:16 > 0:46:19- Absence is necessary - for Merthyr to reveal its scar.
0:46:19 > 0:46:22- I was far enough away - to see it in its entirety.
0:46:23 > 0:46:25- I'm complete because of it.
0:46:26 > 0:46:28- The old town's notes - are constantly stolen.
0:46:29 > 0:46:31- But a new song is needed - to heal a wider rift.
0:46:31 > 0:46:34- The fields of spoils - will flower soon.
0:46:34 > 0:46:37- Fish will return to the dark waters.
0:46:38 > 0:46:41- But within me, - all the fragments are reunited
0:46:41 > 0:46:44- The rift I created - is filled by my language.
0:46:50 > 0:46:54- As a settlement, - Merthyr is comparatively new.
0:46:54 > 0:46:57- But we now know - that the town's roots...
0:46:57 > 0:47:01- ..in the rock itself - are older than we can imagine.
0:47:01 > 0:47:04- Even though the world has changed...
0:47:04 > 0:47:09- ..I'm confident that Merthyr will - flourish long after we have gone.
0:47:24 > 0:47:26- S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.
0:47:26 > 0:47:26- .