Erddig

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0:00:03 > 0:00:07- Did you know that there are - 400 registered gardens in Wales?

0:00:07 > 0:00:11- They can be big, small, - formal or wild.

0:00:11 > 0:00:16- Every garden gives pleasure to the - thousands who visit them every year.

0:00:16 > 0:00:22- I'm visiting a few of our gardens - to see the wealth on our doorstep.

0:00:22 > 0:00:26- It's the golden age of the garden.

0:00:26 > 0:00:29- Welcome to Gerddi Cymru.

0:00:41 > 0:00:43- I know what you're thinking.

0:00:44 > 0:00:48- "This posh house probably belonged - to wealthy, land-owning toffs!

0:00:48 > 0:00:54- "I can guess the rest - and just go home!"

0:00:54 > 0:00:57- However, there's more to Erddig - than you may think.

0:00:59 > 0:01:02- Erddig resembles a grand palace.

0:01:02 > 0:01:04- You can't help but marvel at it.

0:01:09 > 0:01:13- Erddig is situated - near Wrexham in North-East Wales.

0:01:13 > 0:01:17- It's one of Britain's - most notable estates...

0:01:17 > 0:01:19- ..from the late 17th century.

0:01:21 > 0:01:25- The house is set - in 1,200 acres of parkland...

0:01:25 > 0:01:29- ..and there are formal gardens - awash with colour.

0:01:34 > 0:01:38- To understand the garden - and what it represents...

0:01:38 > 0:01:41- ..we must get to know - the previous residents.

0:01:42 > 0:01:44- They weren't kings or lords.

0:01:44 > 0:01:49- They were members of the upper class - who married into money.

0:01:49 > 0:01:54- Erddig has a colourful history - that spans over 300 years.

0:01:55 > 0:01:58- Catrin Wager knows all about it.

0:01:58 > 0:02:02- The house's history - starts with Joshua Edisbury...

0:02:02 > 0:02:04- ..from an upper middle class family.

0:02:05 > 0:02:09- He was appointed High Sheriff - at the end of the 17th century.

0:02:09 > 0:02:15- He didn't feel that his humble home - reflected this new status.

0:02:15 > 0:02:18- Therefore, he built a new home.

0:02:18 > 0:02:23- The original structure at the centre - boasts slightly different brickwork.

0:02:23 > 0:02:29- The home was supposed to cost 700 - but he spent 8,000.

0:02:30 > 0:02:34- This drove him to bankruptcy - and he lost the house and estate.

0:02:38 > 0:02:43- The house was purchased - by a man named John Meller.

0:02:44 > 0:02:47- He was a barrister - who made his fortune in London.

0:02:47 > 0:02:51- He had the required wealth - to extend Erddig.

0:02:51 > 0:02:54- The original structure - was extended to the sides.

0:02:55 > 0:02:57- John Meller was responsible - for this work.

0:02:58 > 0:03:03- It's a very long house - but it isn't very deep.

0:03:03 > 0:03:06- It was built - as a show of his wealth...

0:03:06 > 0:03:12- ..rather than being a mansion like - Chatsworth or other English homes.

0:03:20 > 0:03:24- The facade's splendour and formality - is also echoed inside the home.

0:03:25 > 0:03:30- The house boasts a luxurious decor - and grand furniture.

0:03:34 > 0:03:36- It's like being at Downton!

0:03:37 > 0:03:43- The table is set for ten people and - there's enough room for another ten.

0:03:43 > 0:03:48- It's the perfect room to showcase - wealth and family lineage.

0:03:48 > 0:03:53- The most influential and - longest residing family at Erddig...

0:03:53 > 0:03:55- ..were the Yorkes.

0:03:55 > 0:04:00- Confusingly, each male family member - was called either Simon or Philip.

0:04:06 > 0:04:11- This was their home for 240 years.

0:04:11 > 0:04:16- Their wealth allowed them to spend - extensively on the house and garden.

0:04:17 > 0:04:22- To maintain such a level of luxury, - they needed lots of servants...

0:04:23 > 0:04:25- ..and they lived downstairs.

0:04:30 > 0:04:35- Erddig reflects the varying worlds - of the upstairs, downstairs.

0:04:35 > 0:04:39- A team of faithful servants ensured - the home ran like clockwork.

0:04:40 > 0:04:44- The masters' respect - for their servants is evident.

0:04:51 > 0:04:53- We've certainly arrived downstairs.

0:04:54 > 0:04:56- This gallery - of servants portraits...

0:04:57 > 0:05:02- ..is testament to the relationship - between the owners and their staff.

0:05:02 > 0:05:05- It was a custom - to photograph servants.

0:05:05 > 0:05:08- Here, there's a fondness - to the photographs.

0:05:09 > 0:05:13- Every employee has their own frame - on the wall...

0:05:13 > 0:05:18- ..and there are numerous poems - to praise their efforts.

0:05:18 > 0:05:22- On this side, the workers - have posed for a group photograph.

0:05:23 > 0:05:27- The verse refers to one staff - member in particular, Ned Davies.

0:05:27 > 0:05:32- He's dressed in a bow tie and suit - but was employed to fetch water.

0:05:32 > 0:05:37- "His duties mainly, so they tell, - were fetching water from the well."

0:05:37 > 0:05:43- Some 50 years later, a similar photo - was taken with different servants.

0:05:43 > 0:05:46- Where would Erddig be - without its gardens?

0:05:46 > 0:05:49- The gardeners - have also been photographed.

0:05:50 > 0:05:54- This is Albert Gillam - who was aged 32 in 1911.

0:05:55 > 0:05:57- He looks like a very serious man.

0:06:05 > 0:06:09- The gardens at Erddig - were developed over 300 years.

0:06:09 > 0:06:14- The land has been transformed - into colourful gardens...

0:06:14 > 0:06:18- ..to offer architectural - and horticultural variety.

0:06:30 > 0:06:35- The landscape designer, Helen Scutt - enjoys the gardens at Erddig.

0:06:37 > 0:06:42- As someone who knows Erddig well, - what exactly does it have to offer?

0:06:42 > 0:06:46- We're walking through the original - 18th century Edisbury garden...

0:06:47 > 0:06:50- ..designed in the - William and Mary style.

0:06:50 > 0:06:55- It's a structured garden - with low hedgerows and formal trees.

0:06:55 > 0:06:57- These are apple trees.

0:06:57 > 0:07:01- I can remember walking here in May.

0:07:01 > 0:07:06- There were Narcissus poeticus - daffodils from the Middle Ages.

0:07:06 > 0:07:12- The apple trees were in bloom - and there was a strong, sweet aroma.

0:07:12 > 0:07:18- There was also a magical - buzzing noise coming from the bees.

0:07:19 > 0:07:22- Edisbury's successors at Erddig - were Meller and Yorke.

0:07:23 > 0:07:27- They developed some of the garden's - notable features...

0:07:27 > 0:07:31- ..including the avenue - of pleached limes...

0:07:31 > 0:07:36- ..and the lakes - which provide habitats for wildlife.

0:07:38 > 0:07:43- There's also a splendid Victorian - Garden in front of the house.

0:07:56 > 0:07:58- At the heart of the garden...

0:07:58 > 0:08:02- ..we can see the family's - obsession with symmetry.

0:08:02 > 0:08:05- Everything had to be symmetrical.

0:08:05 > 0:08:09- It's the perfect example - of the William and Mary style.

0:08:09 > 0:08:14- There's a large grass terrace - running the length of the house.

0:08:14 > 0:08:19- As you come down the levels, - there are oblong gardens.

0:08:19 > 0:08:24- There are numerous - rectangular gardens on the estate.

0:08:24 > 0:08:26- There's a wonderful pond too.

0:08:26 > 0:08:29- It's a sign of wealth and luxury.

0:08:29 > 0:08:33- It proved they had plenty of room - to be perfectly symmetrical.

0:08:33 > 0:08:37- I like the canal - but I don't think it's long enough.

0:08:37 > 0:08:43- It should reach the sculptures but - it's too short and disproportionate.

0:08:43 > 0:08:47- Mathematics was very important - in a garden of this kind.

0:08:47 > 0:08:53- There was an emphasis - put on geometry and angles.

0:09:05 > 0:09:10- Erddig garden has something special - to offer in every season.

0:09:11 > 0:09:17- The skilled planting and designing - gives a stunning garden all year.

0:09:18 > 0:09:20- However, - this wasn't always the case.

0:09:21 > 0:09:24- Today, we're lucky that - there's a garden here at all.

0:09:25 > 0:09:27- I'll see you after the break.

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0:09:31 > 0:09:31- Subtitles

0:09:31 > 0:09:33- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:09:41 > 0:09:42- Welcome back.

0:09:43 > 0:09:48- The Landscape Garden movement - during the mid-18th century...

0:09:48 > 0:09:52- ..provided an opportunity - to cut back on formality...

0:09:52 > 0:09:56- ..and create something more natural.

0:09:56 > 0:10:01- It wasn't easy to extend and develop - the land beyond the estate's walls.

0:10:02 > 0:10:04- This vista looks natural...

0:10:04 > 0:10:09- ..but in the 18th century, this land - was a wild forest full of dangers.

0:10:09 > 0:10:13- Therefore, a vision was needed - to transform the land.

0:10:13 > 0:10:15- It's very British.

0:10:15 > 0:10:19- This was the first time - they attempted to improve nature.

0:10:19 > 0:10:24- They relaxed in this safe - and attractive environment.

0:10:24 > 0:10:28- They changed the course of rivers - along the landscape...

0:10:28 > 0:10:30- ..and created lakes.

0:10:31 > 0:10:33- They controlled nature.

0:10:34 > 0:10:38- People like us - could wander around the grounds...

0:10:38 > 0:10:41- ..whilst the gentry - were at their London homes.

0:10:41 > 0:10:44- The poor were allowed - into the gardens.

0:10:44 > 0:10:49- We now consider this view - to be a completely natural one.

0:10:49 > 0:10:52- Yes, and it's a beautiful sight.

0:10:52 > 0:10:58- If the land had been left alone, - we would be faced with a forest now.

0:10:58 > 0:11:01- This view is much more attractive.

0:11:01 > 0:11:04- What are the features - of a Landscape Garden?

0:11:04 > 0:11:07- There aren't lines or structures.

0:11:07 > 0:11:12- You'll only find wonderful views - and aesthetically pleasing planting.

0:11:15 > 0:11:18- Trees were an important feature.

0:11:18 > 0:11:23- Tree-lined avenues were planted - to draw the eye into the distance.

0:11:27 > 0:11:31- Was creating their own landscape...

0:11:31 > 0:11:35- ..something that hailed from - their ability to travel Europe...

0:11:35 > 0:11:40- ..collecting ideas from abroad and - bringing them back to their gardens?

0:11:40 > 0:11:42- That's always been the case.

0:11:43 > 0:11:45- People started travelling...

0:11:45 > 0:11:49- ..and visited places such as Persia.

0:11:49 > 0:11:54- They witnessed the paradise gardens - and brought their ideas back.

0:11:54 > 0:11:57- It affected - how gardens were designed.

0:11:57 > 0:12:00- They incorporated influences - from everywhere.

0:12:01 > 0:12:03- Are these trees indigenous to Wales?

0:12:04 > 0:12:07- Most of these trees are indigenous.

0:12:07 > 0:12:11- If you drive around - the rest of the park...

0:12:11 > 0:12:15- ..you'll see Wellingtonias - which don't even look natural.

0:12:16 > 0:12:20- During the 19th century, people - started travelling to America...

0:12:21 > 0:12:23- ..and returned with seeds.

0:12:23 > 0:12:28- They didn't plant for themselves - but for the future.

0:12:29 > 0:12:31- Yes, that's true.

0:12:32 > 0:12:36- Today, you can gain pleasure - from buying a brand-new Bentley.

0:12:36 > 0:12:41- In the past, they would invite - people to see their Wellingtonias!

0:12:41 > 0:12:45- An avenue of small Wellingtonias - was a status symbol!

0:12:50 > 0:12:54- The famous architect employed - to develop the avenues of trees...

0:12:55 > 0:13:00- ..and to design the vast grounds - at Erddig was William Eames.

0:13:04 > 0:13:10- Eames would always search for ruins - to include in his landscape design.

0:13:10 > 0:13:16- However, he was unaware of the - important motte-and-bailey castle...

0:13:16 > 0:13:20- ..that lay hidden beneath the trees - that he'd planted.

0:13:26 > 0:13:31- Alister Williams, a local historian - is familiar with the castle's story.

0:13:33 > 0:13:36- There isn't a connection - between the castle and house.

0:13:37 > 0:13:41- The castle's history - dates back to Norman times.

0:13:41 > 0:13:47- We believe that it's a late example - of a motte-and-bailey castle.

0:13:47 > 0:13:52- It's possible that there is - a similar castle in Wrexham.

0:13:52 > 0:13:58- This would have been the - local Norman lord's headquarters...

0:13:58 > 0:14:02- ..to keep an eye on the Welsh - living in that direction.

0:14:03 > 0:14:07- Is there a specific reason - why it's located here?

0:14:07 > 0:14:11- There's a steep slope - on three sides.

0:14:11 > 0:14:17- At the bottom, the River Clywedog - is fed by the Black Brook.

0:14:17 > 0:14:21- There's also water - on three sides of this peninsula.

0:14:22 > 0:14:26- Intruders could only enter - the castle from a single direction.

0:14:26 > 0:14:30- When the castle was built, - there wasn't any trees here.

0:14:31 > 0:14:35- Every tree would have been removed - to open it up.

0:14:35 > 0:14:40- The estate has respected the site - and it hasn't been demolished.

0:14:40 > 0:14:44- The estate is responsible - for planting these trees...

0:14:44 > 0:14:48- ..which have helped - to protect the castle.

0:14:49 > 0:14:53- Every year, thousands of visitors - come to see Erddig...

0:14:54 > 0:14:57- ..and pass this castle - without knowing of its existence.

0:14:58 > 0:15:03- Luckily, William Eames carefully - designed his natural landscape...

0:15:03 > 0:15:05- ..to protect something so important.

0:15:14 > 0:15:17- Eames was - a nationally renowned designer...

0:15:18 > 0:15:21- ..but he spent much of his time - in this part of Wales.

0:15:21 > 0:15:26- He redesigned the land at Erddig, - oversaw work at Chirk Castle...

0:15:26 > 0:15:28- ..and at the Penarlag Rectory.

0:15:29 > 0:15:34- This is where Erddig's historical - documents and letters are stored.

0:15:35 > 0:15:39- It's no longer a rectory - but a records office.

0:15:50 > 0:15:55- We're fortunate that Erddig - didn't destroy any documents.

0:15:55 > 0:16:01- There are letters from members of - the family that date back centuries.

0:16:01 > 0:16:05- They didn't throw anything away - and kept lists of what they grew.

0:16:06 > 0:16:09- These lists are incredible.

0:16:10 > 0:16:13- Nearly 100 fruits are listed.

0:16:14 > 0:16:18- There were cherries - on the east and north walls.

0:16:19 > 0:16:24- They grew peaches and numerous - varieties of plums and cherries.

0:16:24 > 0:16:29- The family obviously had - a keen interest in gardening.

0:16:29 > 0:16:31- Yes, they certainly did.

0:16:31 > 0:16:37- These lists date back to when Eames - redeveloped the front of the house.

0:16:38 > 0:16:43- "Woodman understood his duties - to prevent mischief in the woods."

0:16:43 > 0:16:46- What sort of mischief - happened in the woods?

0:16:46 > 0:16:49- He might be referring - to over pruning.

0:16:49 > 0:16:54- They kept every letter - that refers to the house...

0:16:54 > 0:16:56- ..and the garden.

0:16:56 > 0:17:00- It's unusual to find a home - as old as Erddig...

0:17:00 > 0:17:03- ..with a beautiful Eames landscape - to the front...

0:17:03 > 0:17:07- ..and an old garden - to the rear of the home.

0:17:07 > 0:17:09- John Caesars was the gardener.

0:17:09 > 0:17:11- John Caesars was the gardener.- - He was the head gardener.

0:17:12 > 0:17:15- He sent a letter to Simon Yorke.

0:17:15 > 0:17:20- There's mention of how a pigeon - was killed by Robert Henshaw's son.

0:17:20 > 0:17:23- "Last Friday, - after I went to Llangollen...

0:17:24 > 0:17:27- "..took the gun and shot - several of your pigeons...

0:17:28 > 0:17:32- "..one of which he brought into the - house and called it a wood pigeon."

0:17:33 > 0:17:37- He was sacked - for shooting the pigeon.

0:17:38 > 0:17:42- We also have evidence of how much - the estate servants were paid.

0:17:43 > 0:17:47- On Friday 24 November 1749...

0:17:48 > 0:17:52- ..boys burning cuttings - were paid two shillings.

0:17:52 > 0:17:57- Rob Price and George Taylor dug - the flower bed for two shillings.

0:17:57 > 0:17:59- I'd do it for that price!

0:17:59 > 0:18:02- They got a shilling - for cutting hedges.

0:18:03 > 0:18:07- Wages weren't very good at Erddig - but the staff were well-respected.

0:18:07 > 0:18:10- They had a team who enjoyed working.

0:18:10 > 0:18:14- It's interesting - that every detail was listed.

0:18:16 > 0:18:21- The archive material is valuable - for today's gardeners at Erddig.

0:18:22 > 0:18:27- The head gardener, Glyn Smith has - benefitted from old traditions...

0:18:27 > 0:18:31- ..and what was left to him - by the Yorkes.

0:18:32 > 0:18:34- Hello, Glyn.

0:18:35 > 0:18:37- Good morning, how do you do?

0:18:37 > 0:18:42- I think the Yorke family - were very good to their servants.

0:18:42 > 0:18:46- They built this cottage - for the head gardener and his wife.

0:18:47 > 0:18:50- It would have saved the Yorkes - on wages, of course.

0:18:50 > 0:18:55- The tradition of the gardener - living here continues to this day.

0:18:57 > 0:19:02- Surprisingly, Erddig only has - three full-time gardeners.

0:19:02 > 0:19:08- Staff costs are the greatest part - of the annual budget.

0:19:08 > 0:19:10- There's always been three gardeners.

0:19:11 > 0:19:15- We supplement that - by bringing in volunteers.

0:19:24 > 0:19:28- It's tradition that a portrait - is painted of every head gardener.

0:19:29 > 0:19:33- Glyn hopes to leave more than a - portrait after 27 years at Erddig.

0:19:33 > 0:19:37- I've been here so long now, - that it's my garden.

0:19:37 > 0:19:42- I'm doing the right thing and - steering it in the best direction...

0:19:42 > 0:19:44- ..so that it's here forever.

0:19:55 > 0:20:00- The arrival of World War I in 1914 - transformed the Erddig estate.

0:20:01 > 0:20:04- Several gardeners were forced - to fight for their country.

0:20:05 > 0:20:08- The photographs, medals - and poetry for the soldiers...

0:20:09 > 0:20:14- ..are proof of the Yorke's respect - to the soldiers and their families.

0:20:19 > 0:20:21- The war left its mark on the estate.

0:20:21 > 0:20:25- Philip Yorke II - and his second wife, Louisa...

0:20:25 > 0:20:28- ..struggled to maintain the estate.

0:20:30 > 0:20:35- The couple had two sons, - quite late in Philip's life.

0:20:35 > 0:20:39- The family was not as rich - as it had been a century earlier.

0:20:39 > 0:20:44- They hoped that their sons - would marry wealthy girls.

0:20:45 > 0:20:49- However, they didn't - and the Erddig estate deteriorated.

0:20:49 > 0:20:54- The eldest son, Simon Yorke - inherited the house in 1922.

0:20:54 > 0:20:59- He lived as a recluse at Erddig - and the house rapidly deteriorated.

0:21:00 > 0:21:04- His brother, Philip Yorke III - inherited the house in 1966.

0:21:04 > 0:21:08- I came to Erddig seven years ago - when my brother died.

0:21:09 > 0:21:13- Suddenly, I found myself with - a responsibility I never expected.

0:21:14 > 0:21:19- Apart from my dog, Trixie, I was the - sole occupant of this vast house.

0:21:19 > 0:21:23- Philip was an eccentric - and interesting man...

0:21:23 > 0:21:26- ..but he didn't have any wealth.

0:21:26 > 0:21:29- The only way - to save our family home...

0:21:29 > 0:21:31- ..was to give it - to the National Trust.

0:21:32 > 0:21:34- But they didn't seem to want it.

0:21:34 > 0:21:40- The National Trust considered - selling the home's treasures...

0:21:40 > 0:21:43- ..and abandoning - this unimportant house.

0:21:44 > 0:21:47- He was determined - that this wouldn't happen.

0:21:47 > 0:21:52- He considered giving the home to - Plaid Cymru, the Conservatives...

0:21:52 > 0:21:56- ..or Prince Charles if - the National Trust didn't want it.

0:21:56 > 0:22:00- However, he insisted that the house - and its contents were preserved.

0:22:01 > 0:22:05- He got his own way - and Erddig remained as it was.

0:22:05 > 0:22:08- We wouldn't be sat here without him.

0:22:08 > 0:22:11- No, we could not enjoy - this lovely garden.

0:22:11 > 0:22:15- Erddig is wonderful - in every sense of the word.

0:22:15 > 0:22:19- It has a rich history - that bridges the centuries...

0:22:19 > 0:22:24- ..and a garden that's a feast - for the eyes throughout the year.

0:22:35 > 0:22:40- You're lucky that I didn't turn - on my heels and leave!

0:23:01 > 0:23:03- S4C Subtitles by Tinopolis

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