0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:04- This is the story of my return - to a village in Nigeria...
0:00:04 > 0:00:08- ..where I taught for two years - back in the mid-1980s.
0:00:08 > 0:00:10- The village is called Gbara.
0:00:10 > 0:00:15- It's rural, ancient, unique - and difficult to reach.
0:00:15 > 0:00:18- My story is told in two programmes.
0:00:18 > 0:00:20- The journey to the remote place.
0:00:20 > 0:00:23- A way of life that's timeless.
0:00:23 > 0:00:27- Incredible honorary celebrations.
0:00:28 > 0:00:31- Laughter and tears - as I face up to my past.
0:00:31 > 0:00:33- 888
0:00:38 > 0:00:40- 888
0:00:45 > 0:00:47- 888
0:00:52 > 0:00:54- 888
0:01:03 > 0:01:05- I'm back here in Nigeria...
0:01:06 > 0:01:09- ..for the first time - in a quarter of a century.
0:01:09 > 0:01:13- This is Abuja, - the capital city of Nigeria.
0:01:13 > 0:01:16- This is where I start - my journey to Gbara...
0:01:16 > 0:01:19- ..where I was a teacher - for two years.
0:01:19 > 0:01:23- Why am I here? - I'd like to meet my old pupils.
0:01:23 > 0:01:25- I want to see if it's changed.
0:01:25 > 0:01:29- Above all, I've been wanting - to show it to people...
0:01:29 > 0:01:31- ..and now I can share it with you.
0:01:34 > 0:01:36- Nigeria has been described - as dangerous...
0:01:37 > 0:01:40- ..dirty, cruel, noisy and violent.
0:01:40 > 0:01:43- Only a masochist would holiday here.
0:01:44 > 0:01:49- Kidnaps and murders are common, - and armed gangs are everywhere.
0:01:49 > 0:01:53- But I know differently, or I ought - to know, having lived here.
0:01:54 > 0:01:58- There aren't nicer people - than those in Nigeria.
0:01:59 > 0:02:01- Voluntary Service Overseas - VSO...
0:02:02 > 0:02:04- ..sent me here in 1984.
0:02:04 > 0:02:06- I had no choice where I was sent.
0:02:07 > 0:02:10- Katie and I were sent to Nigeria - for two years.
0:02:10 > 0:02:14- That's a very long time - for a 22-year-old from Dolgellau.
0:02:15 > 0:02:16- Why did I go?
0:02:17 > 0:02:20- I was adventurous - and always had wanderlust.
0:02:20 > 0:02:22- With college days behind me...
0:02:22 > 0:02:25- ..marriage and mortgage - weren't a priority.
0:02:25 > 0:02:30- Instead, I was feasted upon by - mosquitoes in the village of Gbara.
0:02:31 > 0:02:34- Since then, - I've had a varied career...
0:02:34 > 0:02:37- ..as an author, to name but one.
0:02:37 > 0:02:41- I've seen all seven continents, - as a broadcaster.
0:02:41 > 0:02:44- Gbara spurred me on - to be serious about writing.
0:02:45 > 0:02:46- I published my diary...
0:02:46 > 0:02:50- ..and was awarded the Crown - at the Urdd Eisteddfod...
0:02:50 > 0:02:54- ..for a work inspired totally - by my experiences in Gbara.
0:03:02 > 0:03:06- As it's now apparently - such a dangerous country...
0:03:06 > 0:03:09- ..I've engaged the help - of a local guide.
0:03:09 > 0:03:11- This is Victor, from Lagos.
0:03:14 > 0:03:18- I arranged to meet up with him - in a hotel in the capital, Abuja.
0:03:18 > 0:03:22- He says we'll need to travel - through Niger state...
0:03:22 > 0:03:25- ..via Minna and Bida...
0:03:25 > 0:03:30- ..before reaching somewhere - too small to be on the map - Gbara.
0:03:30 > 0:03:32- I don't know who I'll be seeing.
0:03:33 > 0:03:35- Victor wants to surprise me.
0:03:35 > 0:03:39- That's fine, and the prospect - of the journey excites me.
0:03:39 > 0:03:44- Yet, the first of his surprises - hits me like a mallet.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47- I met a couple of people...
0:03:47 > 0:03:51- ..who have some messages for you, - on video.
0:03:51 > 0:03:52- OK.
0:03:52 > 0:03:54- OK.- - Hold your breath.
0:03:55 > 0:03:57- So.
0:05:26 > 0:05:31- Finally, we leave our secure hotel - to see the real Nigeria...
0:05:31 > 0:05:34- ..endless countryside - and cassava fields.
0:05:34 > 0:05:38- It's enlivened - by occasional hustle and bustle.
0:05:38 > 0:05:43- Roads are bad, the car's a wreck - and the mosquitoes are alert.
0:05:43 > 0:05:47- I now sense a change. - The landscape's changing.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- I feel as though I'm going home.
0:05:50 > 0:05:55- We're now in Niger state, - one of the 36 states of Nigeria.
0:05:55 > 0:05:57- It's a really vast country.
0:05:57 > 0:06:02- Niger state is the largest of all - the states and Minna is its capital.
0:06:02 > 0:06:07- Nigeria is home - to over 140 million people.
0:06:07 > 0:06:11- That's 20% of Africa's population - and it continues to grow.
0:06:12 > 0:06:16- Minna was quite large in the 1980s - but now I'm amazed by its size.
0:06:16 > 0:06:19- The market hasn't changed at all.
0:06:20 > 0:06:25- It's still a throbbing melting pot - of colours, voices, buying, selling.
0:06:25 > 0:06:28- Different aromas fill the air.
0:06:33 > 0:06:37- Suddenly, amidst the din, - I hear someone calling my name.
0:06:37 > 0:06:39- Miss Bethan!
0:06:42 > 0:06:44- Hello, Musa.
0:06:49 > 0:06:51- This is Musa A Baba.
0:06:51 > 0:06:53- You've grown!
0:06:53 > 0:06:55- I'm face to face, well, almost...
0:06:56 > 0:06:58- ..with the boy who's now a giant.
0:06:58 > 0:07:01- Musa A Baba - is the first person from Gbara...
0:07:01 > 0:07:04- ..I've met - in a quarter of a century.
0:07:04 > 0:07:07- He was 14 years old when I last - saw him and only this tall.
0:07:07 > 0:07:09- You're now wearing glasses too!
0:07:10 > 0:07:12- Musa looked after our cats.
0:07:12 > 0:07:14- He kept me safe once...
0:07:14 > 0:07:16- ..when some teachers were drunk.
0:07:17 > 0:07:21- "You are fine now, Miss Bethan, - but you should lock your door."
0:07:21 > 0:07:24- "Goodnight, goodbye, - Allah protect you."
0:07:26 > 0:07:30- He's now a nurse, training - for further qualifications.
0:07:30 > 0:07:35- He's invited me to his family home, - in a compound on the edge of town.
0:07:35 > 0:07:37- Hello.
0:07:38 > 0:07:41- Pleased to meet you.
0:07:41 > 0:07:44- I'm in Musa's home now, - they're all happy.
0:07:44 > 0:07:47- It's an honour - when a guest visits their home.
0:07:48 > 0:07:51- So we're here...
0:07:51 > 0:07:55- ..and I've met his wife, - who speaks perfect English.
0:07:55 > 0:07:57- They have three lovely children.
0:07:58 > 0:08:01- We gave them gifts from Wales, - bubbles and books.
0:08:01 > 0:08:04- They seemed to enjoy them.
0:08:04 > 0:08:06- That's a good one.
0:08:07 > 0:08:12- She's a nice woman. She really - impacts more in our knowledge.
0:08:12 > 0:08:15- In our school then, - we don't have libraries.
0:08:15 > 0:08:17- She established the library.
0:08:18 > 0:08:21- She was very kind and is generous.
0:08:21 > 0:08:27- I'm like a squirrel. I never throw - anything away, especially letters.
0:08:27 > 0:08:29- You don't have a copy, do you?
0:08:29 > 0:08:31- I don't have a copy.
0:08:32 > 0:08:34- I thought you'd like to see it.
0:08:34 > 0:08:38- "I miss you so much, - sometimes I do dream with you.
0:08:38 > 0:08:42- "May I say long life and prosperity - to you and your family.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45- "I wish you all best wishes."
0:08:46 > 0:08:49- It's great to see Musa - and his family.
0:08:50 > 0:08:52- I'm glad to see he's done so well.
0:08:52 > 0:08:56- I want to see more former pupils, - and to proceed to Gbara.
0:08:56 > 0:09:01- She's a person that after 25 years - of her departure still remembers.
0:09:01 > 0:09:05- In fact, it's great, - it's very great.
0:09:07 > 0:09:10- Then came a surprise - not set up by Victor.
0:09:11 > 0:09:14- The venue was, of all places, - a fast food outlet.
0:09:14 > 0:09:16- Musa wanted me to see Mr Bigg's.
0:09:16 > 0:09:19- It's a McDonalds type of place.
0:09:19 > 0:09:23- It shows how Nigeria's changed - - "What do you think of this?"
0:09:23 > 0:09:28- And I go, "Mmmm." I'm not keen - on these places at home, actually.
0:09:28 > 0:09:32- I was munching my pepe chicken. - Someone came in and greeted Musa.
0:09:33 > 0:09:36- We looked at each other - and I gestured like this.
0:09:38 > 0:09:42- I couldn't recall his name - - he's Mohammed, a popular name...
0:09:42 > 0:09:45- ..but I certainly - remembered his face.
0:09:45 > 0:09:48- I never had a photo of Ali Mohammed.
0:09:48 > 0:09:53- However, his distinctive face - had stayed in my memory.
0:09:53 > 0:09:58- He had intelligent eyes - and the Nupe marks on his cheeks.
0:09:58 > 0:10:01- The boys all had old white shirts - and shorts.
0:10:01 > 0:10:03- Having footwear was a bonus.
0:10:03 > 0:10:07- They'd walk many, many miles - to be educated by us.
0:10:11 > 0:10:12- That's how you remember me.
0:10:12 > 0:10:14- That's how you remember me.- - Exactly, exactly, exactly.
0:10:14 > 0:10:19- Miss Bethan, I put the hair down, - now I look more like me.
0:10:20 > 0:10:22- How do I say see you soon? - Sai ka' degi?
0:10:22 > 0:10:24- Sai ka' degi.
0:10:25 > 0:10:28- Drive safely. - Going the wrong way. Oh!
0:10:28 > 0:10:30- Not everybody could afford that car.
0:10:30 > 0:10:33- I'm invited to his home tonight.
0:10:33 > 0:10:36- I can't wait to find out - how much of a Mr Big he is!
0:10:37 > 0:10:41- There's one who's done well, - if that's how you measure success.
0:10:41 > 0:10:44- But I couldn't remember his name!
0:10:44 > 0:10:46- CHUCKLES
0:10:58 > 0:11:00- I kept a diary in primary school.
0:11:00 > 0:11:04- Ever since then, - I've kept one regularly most years.
0:11:05 > 0:11:07- I'd write a full page every day.
0:11:07 > 0:11:10- Occasionally, nothing much happens.
0:11:10 > 0:11:14- This is the diary - that I took with me to Gbara.
0:11:14 > 0:11:18- 1984, and I have two others, - both very full.
0:11:18 > 0:11:23- As I said in my foreword - to Dyddiadur Gbara (Gbara Diary)...
0:11:23 > 0:11:27- ..I kept detailed diaries, - now my treasured possessions.
0:11:27 > 0:11:30- I'd like to share extracts - with you.
0:11:30 > 0:11:35- You may learn about these people - and their way of life.
0:11:36 > 0:11:39- Who's to say - that our lifestyle is superior?
0:11:39 > 0:11:41- I've brought my 1984 diary with me.
0:11:42 > 0:11:46- It'll remind me of the person I was, - and of Nigeria then.
0:11:46 > 0:11:51- Reproducing the diary wasn't enough. - The contents were emotional.
0:11:51 > 0:11:56- Descriptive passages were lacking, - but I found these in my letters.
0:11:57 > 0:12:01- Between both sources, there emerges - a more balanced picture.
0:12:01 > 0:12:04- How I'd have survived - without my diary...
0:12:04 > 0:12:06- ..I don't know - it was my mate.
0:12:07 > 0:12:10- I guess my diary - is still my best friend.
0:12:12 > 0:12:13- .
0:12:15 > 0:12:15- 888
0:12:15 > 0:12:16- 888- - 888
0:12:16 > 0:12:21- I'm journeying through Nigeria - to the small village of Gbara.
0:12:21 > 0:12:24- I was a VSO teacher there - 25 years ago.
0:12:24 > 0:12:28- Today, we leave Minna for Bida, - a three-hour trip.
0:12:29 > 0:12:32- However, - it isn't going according to plan.
0:12:32 > 0:12:35- Last night was rather eventful.
0:12:35 > 0:12:37- Can you see our old van over there?
0:12:37 > 0:12:40- When our driver started it, - it went up in flames.
0:12:41 > 0:12:44- He was upset and in tears - but he's OK now.
0:12:45 > 0:12:48- Today we have another bus - in similar condition.
0:12:48 > 0:12:52- I was also rudely awoken at 4.00am - by the sound of breaking glass.
0:12:52 > 0:12:57- There'd been an attempted burglary - in the room next door to me.
0:12:57 > 0:13:00- They actually caught the burglar.
0:13:00 > 0:13:02- It may explain my bleary eyes.
0:13:02 > 0:13:05- Something happens all the time.
0:13:10 > 0:13:13- Every so often, - cars are stopped by police.
0:13:13 > 0:13:16- Sometimes they let them pass - through, sometimes not.
0:13:17 > 0:13:19- They're stopping us.
0:13:24 > 0:13:26- Who's the driver?
0:13:35 > 0:13:38- Can I see your boot?
0:13:38 > 0:13:40- He wants to check the back.
0:13:41 > 0:13:44- He'll check - that we have no illegal cargo.
0:13:59 > 0:14:01- OK?
0:14:26 > 0:14:28- The roads have large potholes...
0:14:28 > 0:14:31- ..but they're much improved - since the 1980s.
0:14:31 > 0:14:34- There's quite a large town there.
0:14:34 > 0:14:37- The driver said it was Bida, - and I could hardly believe it.
0:14:38 > 0:14:42- If it is Bida, it's grown. - I don't remember this at all.
0:14:51 > 0:14:56- As I approach Bida, - and the Nupe people, I'm excited.
0:14:56 > 0:15:00- I hear the Nupe language, - and the Nupe people are all around.
0:15:00 > 0:15:05- In spite of the stories of danger - and armed policemen...
0:15:05 > 0:15:08- ..these warm and generous people - haven't changed at all.
0:15:09 > 0:15:11- It may be hazardous down south...
0:15:11 > 0:15:16- ..but here, where the Emir, - the Nupe king, is the boss...
0:15:16 > 0:15:20- ..I feel perfectly safe, - almost at home.
0:15:20 > 0:15:24- I see a man with a T-shirt - from The White Lion, Llantwit Major!
0:15:24 > 0:15:28- Where did you get this shirt, - do you know?
0:15:29 > 0:15:31- I bought it from the market, yes.
0:15:34 > 0:15:36- Llantwit Major is in my country.
0:15:37 > 0:15:38- They are from England.
0:15:38 > 0:15:40- They are from England.- - No, no, Wales.
0:15:41 > 0:15:43- The White Lion is a pub.
0:15:43 > 0:15:45- White Lion, OK.
0:15:45 > 0:15:47- Where they drink beer.
0:15:49 > 0:15:52- Take care of this shirt, - it's important.
0:15:52 > 0:15:54- Yes, I do take care of it.
0:15:56 > 0:15:59- It's the people who make the place - so remarkable.
0:16:00 > 0:16:05- Honestly, wherever you go, - they shout, "Welcome, welcome."
0:16:05 > 0:16:09- It's the first thing they say - to a white face or any stranger...
0:16:10 > 0:16:12- .."Welcome," - not just "Hi, how are you?"
0:16:13 > 0:16:15- It'd be nice if we did the same.
0:16:21 > 0:16:24- The Nupe are in the majority here.
0:16:24 > 0:16:27- They're colourful and lively people.
0:16:27 > 0:16:32- Their characteristic facial marks - show their family origins.
0:16:32 > 0:16:35- The Emir, or Etsu Nupe, - is their chief.
0:16:35 > 0:16:39- In the 1980s, I saw him for myself - in a sala - a royal procession.
0:16:40 > 0:16:44- It was all horses and fanfares. - I only saw him from afar.
0:16:45 > 0:16:48- Life could be quite hard in Gbara.
0:16:48 > 0:16:50- There were no shops - or electricity...
0:16:51 > 0:16:53- ..only rats, insects - and stifling heat.
0:16:54 > 0:16:56- Katie and I came to Bida - most weekends.
0:16:56 > 0:17:00- We'd meet ex-pats, - and collect messages from home.
0:17:05 > 0:17:09- This was always our first stop, - the post office.
0:17:09 > 0:17:12- It was the only link with home.
0:17:12 > 0:17:15- Normally, there'd be a pile of mail - for Katie...
0:17:15 > 0:17:18- ..but little or nothing for me.
0:17:37 > 0:17:43- Nowadays, gap year students - can contact home by text or email.
0:17:43 > 0:17:46- There were no such services - in my day.
0:17:46 > 0:17:51- Letters to Wales were three weeks - in transit, and vice versa.
0:17:52 > 0:17:54- Letters were all-important to me.
0:17:54 > 0:17:59- It was the only way to communicate, - as there was no telephone in Bida.
0:17:59 > 0:18:02- Minna had one expensive telephone.
0:18:10 > 0:18:13- Over several months, - the man here and I became friends.
0:18:13 > 0:18:14- I was a regular visitor.
0:18:15 > 0:18:19- Sometimes, he'd refuse to give me - my letters unless I gave him a tip.
0:18:20 > 0:18:22- I wasn't prepared to do that.
0:18:22 > 0:18:24- I brought him bananas instead.
0:18:24 > 0:18:27- Then he was happy - to hand over my letters.
0:18:27 > 0:18:28- It's the Nigerian mindset.
0:18:30 > 0:18:33- People don't get anywhere - by making demands.
0:18:33 > 0:18:37- By playing the game or making - a joke of it, you'll be fine.
0:18:44 > 0:18:48- Tonight, after our earlier - chance meeting at Mr Bigg's...
0:18:48 > 0:18:50- ..I'm visiting Ali Mohammed.
0:18:51 > 0:18:52- You're highly welcome.
0:18:56 > 0:18:58- Oh, my word.
0:19:02 > 0:19:03- You're highly welcome.
0:19:03 > 0:19:04- You're highly welcome.- - Thank you.
0:19:04 > 0:19:06- Your life has changed.
0:19:06 > 0:19:08- I thank God.
0:19:08 > 0:19:10- I thank God.- - From when I remember...
0:19:11 > 0:19:14- A quiet, clever boy, - who sat next to the head boy.
0:19:14 > 0:19:17- That was Ali Mohammed in school.
0:19:17 > 0:19:20- He wasn't top of the class - in English, as I recall...
0:19:21 > 0:19:23- ..but he excelled at mathematics.
0:19:24 > 0:19:28- He's now head finance officer - for the Niger state government.
0:19:28 > 0:19:33- He's gone to fetch the family, - to introduce everyone to me.
0:19:33 > 0:19:36- I know already, he's told me, - that he has two wives.
0:19:37 > 0:19:41- As he's quite young, that shows - he's done exceedingly well.
0:19:42 > 0:19:43- The house suggests that too.
0:19:44 > 0:19:47- They lived in a small mud hut - when in Gbara.
0:19:47 > 0:19:51- Look over there - that television - is much better than mine.
0:19:53 > 0:19:55- I don't know if I was an influence.
0:19:55 > 0:19:58- I'd like to think I might have been.
0:19:58 > 0:20:02- He appears genuinely - very, very pleased that I'm here.
0:20:02 > 0:20:05- As well as his two wives - and eight children...
0:20:06 > 0:20:08- ..he's adopted five other children.
0:20:09 > 0:20:13- He wants to help as best he can, - as he has the financial resources.
0:20:13 > 0:20:16- Because you have a nice house, - you can adopt.
0:20:16 > 0:20:21- I adopt, and I help them, - to train them for a good future.
0:20:24 > 0:20:26- Yes, what a man.
0:20:26 > 0:20:29- He's not only - got himself out of poverty...
0:20:29 > 0:20:33- ..but other people's children too.
0:20:33 > 0:20:35- Are you proud of this man, yeah?
0:20:36 > 0:20:37- Yes.
0:20:38 > 0:20:40- I'm proud too.
0:20:41 > 0:20:45- Suddenly, he went to the kitchen - for another surprise.
0:20:45 > 0:20:48- I don't know what's happening.
0:20:51 > 0:20:53- Head boy!
0:20:53 > 0:20:55- LAUGHTER
0:20:56 > 0:20:58- This is Isah.
0:20:58 > 0:21:02- He's a very likeable boy - and was a hard-working pupil.
0:21:02 > 0:21:04- He's now a teacher.
0:21:04 > 0:21:05- Are you surprised?
0:21:05 > 0:21:08- Are you surprised?- - I am, I am, I am. Gosh!
0:21:08 > 0:21:11- You live in Bida too. - Goodness me.
0:21:13 > 0:21:14- You have three wives.
0:21:14 > 0:21:15- You have three wives.- - Yes.
0:21:16 > 0:21:17- No? Two.
0:21:17 > 0:21:19- LAUGHTER
0:21:19 > 0:21:21- Gosh, you've both done so well.
0:21:24 > 0:21:28- It's not too late for me now - to show you all my achievements.
0:21:28 > 0:21:30- Academic achievements.
0:21:30 > 0:21:32- So we taught you well?
0:21:32 > 0:21:33- So we taught you well?- - Yes.
0:21:34 > 0:21:37- I thought my two years there - hadn't helped them much.
0:21:37 > 0:21:40- Maybe, after all, - I was some help to them.
0:21:42 > 0:21:45- Seeing Ali and Isah again is lovely.
0:21:45 > 0:21:47- I'm glad they've done so well.
0:21:47 > 0:21:50- Despite an electricity power cut...
0:21:50 > 0:21:54- ..Ali's still keen to show me - all his academic certificates.
0:21:56 > 0:22:00- Yes, these have succeeded. - What of the others at Gbara?
0:22:00 > 0:22:02- I'll soon be finding out.
0:22:02 > 0:22:05- See you in another 25 years.
0:22:05 > 0:22:09- Little did I guess - I'd see them again much sooner.
0:22:12 > 0:22:16- I hope to fulfil it, that one day - you'll see me at your compound.
0:22:16 > 0:22:18- You're welcome to my compound.
0:22:23 > 0:22:25- They've done remarkably well.
0:22:25 > 0:22:28- Gbara, as you'll see, is so remote.
0:22:32 > 0:22:36- The teachers sent there, - by and large, were being penalized.
0:22:36 > 0:22:39- It's unbelievable...
0:22:39 > 0:22:43- ..that they've come from that - to reach this level here.
0:22:43 > 0:22:46- Ali, goodness me, has a Master's.
0:22:48 > 0:22:50- He says he'll visit me in Wales.
0:22:51 > 0:22:53- If any of them will, it'll be him.
0:22:53 > 0:22:55- He'll be able to afford it.
0:22:55 > 0:22:58- I hope my house - doesn't disappoint him.
0:23:04 > 0:23:08- Katie and I also called often - at the Catholic church in Bida.
0:23:08 > 0:23:11- No, not for the reason - you might be thinking.
0:23:12 > 0:23:14- We would come here for some fun.
0:23:14 > 0:23:19- We'd play cards with Father Con - and Sisters Mary and Cleophas.
0:23:20 > 0:23:24- I'm back here, and I'm meeting - the newly-appointed priest.
0:23:25 > 0:23:28- So it's only your second day here.
0:23:28 > 0:23:30- Yes, I came on Saturday evening.
0:23:31 > 0:23:34- Yesterday was my first day, - and today's my second.
0:23:34 > 0:23:37- You don't remember - the priests who were here before.
0:23:37 > 0:23:40- I would remember some of them.
0:23:40 > 0:23:43- I know Father Con lived here.
0:23:43 > 0:23:44- Ah, you know Father Con.
0:23:44 > 0:23:47- Ah, you know Father Con.- - I know Father Con very well.
0:23:48 > 0:23:50- Can you give me his number?
0:23:51 > 0:23:52- His email, anything!
0:23:52 > 0:23:54- His email, anything!- - I can give you his phone number.
0:23:57 > 0:24:00- Leave your number - and I can get back to you.
0:24:01 > 0:24:03- Why not leave him a message?
0:24:03 > 0:24:09- Hello, Father Con, - this is a blast from the past.
0:24:09 > 0:24:11- I don't know if you remember me.
0:24:11 > 0:24:15- Do you remember Bethan - who was in Gbara from 1984 to 1986?
0:24:15 > 0:24:20- I used to play bridge with you - and Sister Mary and Sister Cleophas.
0:24:20 > 0:24:25- I brought you Black Label whisky, - duty free, back from Wales.
0:24:25 > 0:24:28- I'm here in Bida, - in front of the church.
0:24:51 > 0:24:54- The penny's just dropped for me.
0:25:00 > 0:25:02- I started to cry inside the church.
0:25:02 > 0:25:05- I'd only been inside once before.
0:25:05 > 0:25:07- It was the link, no doubt...
0:25:07 > 0:25:11- ..with Father Con, - who was the priest there...
0:25:11 > 0:25:15- ..Sister Mary and Sister Cleophas, - all three from Ireland.
0:25:16 > 0:25:19- They were very important to me.
0:25:19 > 0:25:23- They were such fun to be with, - when I'd had a bad week.
0:25:23 > 0:25:26- You know... oh... a week full of...
0:25:26 > 0:25:28- ..trials and tribulations...
0:25:28 > 0:25:31- ..frustrated - with the school children...
0:25:31 > 0:25:33- ..no chalk, no letters for me.
0:25:34 > 0:25:36- Sister Mary was a character.
0:25:36 > 0:25:38- "There you go, what a woman."
0:25:38 > 0:25:40- Sister Cleophas was 86.
0:25:40 > 0:25:43- She often asked, - "Would you like a cup of tea?"
0:25:43 > 0:25:48- Father Con smoked, enjoyed a whisky - and joked all the time.
0:25:48 > 0:25:51- Also, most importantly...
0:25:51 > 0:25:54- ..was the time - when I fell very seriously ill.
0:25:54 > 0:25:57- I thought I was dying.
0:25:57 > 0:25:59- I was far away from here.
0:25:59 > 0:26:01- I was stuck there by myself.
0:26:02 > 0:26:06- I was in the middle of nowhere, - leaning and sliding against a tree.
0:26:06 > 0:26:09- I was going to faint or something.
0:26:09 > 0:26:13- I recall thinking to myself, - "I'm going to die here."
0:26:13 > 0:26:16- "If I just faint here - oh, my God."
0:26:16 > 0:26:18- By some good fortune...
0:26:18 > 0:26:22- ..a nice car drove up and stopped - then the driver looked at me.
0:26:22 > 0:26:24- He was a Nigerian - a priest.
0:26:25 > 0:26:27- He asked me if I was ill.
0:26:27 > 0:26:29- I said I was going to Bida.
0:26:29 > 0:26:32- He knew Sister Mary - and Sister Cleophas.
0:26:32 > 0:26:34- He brought me to their house.
0:26:34 > 0:26:37- I recall walking into the kitchen.
0:26:37 > 0:26:39- They both stared at me.
0:26:39 > 0:26:42- "Bethan, what are you doing here?"
0:26:42 > 0:26:46- "I'm not very well," I said - and I crashed to the floor.
0:26:46 > 0:26:48- Apparently, I fell flat on my face.
0:26:48 > 0:26:53- Somehow, they carried me upstairs - and I stayed there for a week.
0:26:53 > 0:26:56- I dreamt, - spoke gibberish and perspired.
0:26:56 > 0:26:59- I had those hot and cold flushes.
0:26:59 > 0:27:03- Malaria was a possibility - but I never found out what it was.
0:27:03 > 0:27:06- I received some treatment or other.
0:27:06 > 0:27:11- I said some very strange things - to Sister Cleophas, the 86-year-old.
0:27:11 > 0:27:13- She never revealed what exactly!
0:27:14 > 0:27:16- I blush when thinking about it.
0:27:16 > 0:27:17- GIGGLES
0:27:18 > 0:27:21- That's what this place brings back.
0:27:23 > 0:27:24- .
0:27:25 > 0:27:25- 888
0:27:25 > 0:27:27- 888- - 888
0:27:33 > 0:27:38- I'm now in the nearest large town - to my old haunt, Gbara village.
0:27:38 > 0:27:41- It's been an emotional trip so far.
0:27:41 > 0:27:45- There have been surprises - and friendly faces from the past.
0:27:45 > 0:27:49- Isah's taking me to see Gogo.
0:27:49 > 0:27:51- She was the girl you saw on tape.
0:27:51 > 0:27:53- So I'm tearful already.
0:27:59 > 0:28:01- Gogo?
0:28:01 > 0:28:03- Gogo.
0:28:03 > 0:28:07- Thank you, - welcome, welcome, welcome.
0:28:13 > 0:28:15- You've not changed.
0:28:17 > 0:28:20- Tears flow as I recall - this lovely little girl.
0:28:20 > 0:28:22- She sat in the front of the class.
0:28:23 > 0:28:26- Girls don't have the freedom - that we do.
0:28:26 > 0:28:28- They were rather quiet and shy...
0:28:28 > 0:28:32- ..apart from Gogo, - who laughed and smiled constantly.
0:28:32 > 0:28:37- So, in your family, - your husband, you, four children?
0:28:37 > 0:28:38- Six children!
0:28:38 > 0:28:41- How many people sleep in this room?
0:28:48 > 0:28:49- Six people.
0:28:49 > 0:28:51- Six people.- - Six people, ah. Right, OK.
0:28:51 > 0:28:53- Six sleep here, OK.
0:28:54 > 0:28:57- Would you like to see a photo? - Can you see yourself?
0:29:01 > 0:29:04- You haven't changed much though.
0:29:04 > 0:29:06- You were always smiling.
0:29:06 > 0:29:08- LAUGHTER
0:29:11 > 0:29:14- Gogo and her friends - would often call at my house.
0:29:14 > 0:29:18- They loved my old magazines, - such as Cosmopolitan.
0:29:18 > 0:29:21- Girls are the same the world over!
0:29:22 > 0:29:24- She shows me her kitchen.
0:29:24 > 0:29:27- It looks poor by our standards, - I know.
0:29:27 > 0:29:31- It's a typical town house. - Her husband is a teacher.
0:29:31 > 0:29:34- There's medicine on the boil - as she's not well.
0:29:34 > 0:29:37- Nupe folk use traditional medicines.
0:29:37 > 0:29:39- They do work sometimes!
0:29:40 > 0:29:43- Another favourite, - her friend Fatima, is absent.
0:29:43 > 0:29:46- She was a lovely girl, really shy.
0:29:46 > 0:29:48- She died of an unknown illness.
0:29:48 > 0:29:52- Yes, life here remains fragile.
0:29:52 > 0:29:56- The greatest impact on women - since I was here, is Sharia law.
0:29:57 > 0:30:00- But when the hijab is discarded, - I see again the young girl.
0:30:01 > 0:30:04- She's wearing a colourful, - traditional dress.
0:30:04 > 0:30:07- Here, men may have - as many as four wives...
0:30:07 > 0:30:10- ..so I ask about husband sharing.
0:30:10 > 0:30:12- Your husband has only one wife.
0:30:16 > 0:30:19- Do you think maybe - he will take a second wife?
0:30:19 > 0:30:23- You prefer to have your husband - to you, only you.
0:30:23 > 0:30:25- LAUGHTER
0:30:25 > 0:30:27- Yes.
0:30:27 > 0:30:29- LAUGHTER
0:30:30 > 0:30:31- Gogo was ever the honest one!
0:30:35 > 0:30:40- Her English is so good, considering - her education stopped when I left.
0:30:40 > 0:30:45- I wonder what might she have - achieved had she stayed at school.
0:30:45 > 0:30:47- I'll see her again, for sure.
0:30:50 > 0:30:52- OK, be good.
0:30:54 > 0:30:55- Don't cry now.
0:31:02 > 0:31:04- It has amazed me.
0:31:04 > 0:31:07- It's the same wherever I go here.
0:31:07 > 0:31:09- They're showing me such respect.
0:31:09 > 0:31:11- It's a matter of honour.
0:31:12 > 0:31:14- It's as though I was a princess.
0:31:14 > 0:31:19- It's rather scary, although - perhaps I should have expected this.
0:31:20 > 0:31:24- With the Nigerian way of life, - one never can tell.
0:31:29 > 0:31:31- I'm chuffed, of course.
0:31:31 > 0:31:34- I sense that the greatest reception - lies ahead.
0:31:42 > 0:31:45- We're on our way - but, as ever, I have no idea where.
0:31:45 > 0:31:50- I suspect that Victor enjoys - keeping me in the dark.
0:31:50 > 0:31:53- A girl can only tolerate - so many surprises.
0:31:53 > 0:31:56- I'm also desperate for a wee!
0:32:01 > 0:32:03- I've seen a sign for a college.
0:32:03 > 0:32:08- I'm guessing now, OK, hmm, - that this may involve an old pupil.
0:32:08 > 0:32:13- Perhaps he's high up in the college, - a lecturer or even the principal!
0:32:13 > 0:32:16- Perhaps he's just the cleaner.
0:32:16 > 0:32:18- I don't know, but...
0:32:19 > 0:32:21- I'm right, aren't I?
0:32:21 > 0:32:23- Something like that.
0:32:23 > 0:32:25- Sorry, that was Welsh!
0:32:34 > 0:32:39- I ought to have guessed when Victor - changed his shirt and had a haircut.
0:32:42 > 0:32:44- Hello, my two ex-pupils!
0:32:44 > 0:32:47- Look who's here, all dressed up.
0:32:47 > 0:32:51- Ali and Isah - are both in on the plot.
0:32:52 > 0:32:54- You're making me nervous.
0:33:02 > 0:33:04- I didn't want to come here.
0:33:05 > 0:33:09- I think we're at the home - of a very important person.
0:33:10 > 0:33:12- He's really important, OK?
0:33:13 > 0:33:16- I almost swore, he's that important!
0:33:17 > 0:33:19- Oh... and I want a wee.
0:33:28 > 0:33:32- Do you remember me saying - about seeing the Emir from afar?
0:33:32 > 0:33:35- Well, the current Emir - has invited me to his palace.
0:33:35 > 0:33:39- That's why I'm nervous. - I'm not often in royal company.
0:33:39 > 0:33:42- Victor's explanation doesn't help.
0:33:42 > 0:33:46- All the kingdoms and chieftains - come under the Emirate.
0:33:47 > 0:33:51- We're going to meet the most - important traditional ruler...
0:33:52 > 0:33:56- ..in the whole of the Nupe kingdom.
0:33:59 > 0:34:02- I'm here to meet the most - important man I've ever met.
0:34:02 > 0:34:04- I've had no time to prepare.
0:34:05 > 0:34:07- A speech is expected, guaranteed.
0:34:09 > 0:34:13- Ali introduces me. - He goes over the top, of course.
0:34:47 > 0:34:49- Stand up.
0:34:49 > 0:34:51- APPLAUSE
0:34:51 > 0:34:53- Thank you.
0:34:53 > 0:34:56- Sit down? OK.
0:34:56 > 0:34:59- This is an enormous honour.
0:34:59 > 0:35:04- My former pupils, who are themselves - quite important, were nervous.
0:35:04 > 0:35:09- I was definitely very nervous, - but what an honour and a privilege.
0:35:20 > 0:35:23- I still remember some Nupe.
0:35:23 > 0:35:26- Actually, - I was in Gbara for two years.
0:35:26 > 0:35:30- I am looking forward so much - to returning to Gbara to see more.
0:35:30 > 0:35:35- With my legs trembling, I shut up - and presented him with a gift.
0:35:35 > 0:35:40- Thanks to the others for bringing - the gifts, for I'd brought nothing.
0:35:43 > 0:35:45- Can I give it to you? Yes?
0:35:46 > 0:35:48- It's the flag of Wales.
0:35:48 > 0:35:50- That's our country.
0:35:50 > 0:35:53- The dragon. It's a very pretty flag.
0:35:53 > 0:35:57- So, OK. Thank you.
0:36:02 > 0:36:04- This was a special honour.
0:36:04 > 0:36:07- I didn't want to say or do - the wrong thing.
0:36:07 > 0:36:11- I needn't have worried. - He was a very affable gentleman.
0:36:12 > 0:36:17- It was noisy, but he thanked me for - my two years of service in Gbara.
0:36:47 > 0:36:50- I feel so humble.
0:36:53 > 0:36:56- They placed such emphasis - on what I did.
0:36:56 > 0:36:59- He spoke about the sort of life - I'd given up.
0:36:59 > 0:37:04- He meant home comforts, - all the luxuries we have at home.
0:37:04 > 0:37:08- I did that to be with the mosquitoes - and without water in Gbara.
0:37:08 > 0:37:12- That said, I was enjoying myself - because it was a great adventure.
0:37:12 > 0:37:14- I feel a bit of a fraud.
0:37:15 > 0:37:17- But, no.
0:37:20 > 0:37:22- I deserve this.
0:37:26 > 0:37:27- .
0:37:29 > 0:37:29- 888
0:37:29 > 0:37:31- 888- - 888
0:37:37 > 0:37:42- I'm finally on the final and hardest - leg of the journey to Gbara.
0:37:42 > 0:37:46- We could have canoed the river, - and hiked four muddy miles.
0:37:46 > 0:37:51- Due to the equipment we have, we - must go the long way round, by road.
0:37:51 > 0:37:53- A Land Rover or tractor - would have been handy.
0:37:54 > 0:37:58- The tarmac's disappeared - and our convoy of crocks is slow.
0:37:59 > 0:38:02- Mile by mile, from bridge to bridge, - we travel for hours.
0:38:10 > 0:38:14- In an hour or so, I'll be in Gbara.
0:38:14 > 0:38:17- My stomach's up here - and I feel sick.
0:38:17 > 0:38:20- I'm nervous.
0:38:20 > 0:38:24- Why? Because it'll be carnival time.
0:38:46 > 0:38:50- Once I knew there was a chance - to return to Nigeria and Gbara...
0:38:52 > 0:38:55- ..I took no notice whatsoever...
0:38:55 > 0:39:00- ..of press reports of danger, - and people warning me against it.
0:39:00 > 0:39:02- "You shouldn't go - oh, gosh, no."
0:39:02 > 0:39:05- Absolute rubbish! I knew.
0:39:05 > 0:39:08- I took it all in - with a ton of salt.
0:39:09 > 0:39:11- I thought, "You don't really know."
0:39:13 > 0:39:15- And...
0:39:16 > 0:39:19- ..even if they'd told me, - "No, you can't go now"...
0:39:19 > 0:39:22- ..I'd have b****y well come anyway.
0:39:28 > 0:39:32- In a beautifully setting, on the - fertile banks of the river Kaduna...
0:39:32 > 0:39:37- ..where it meets the river Niger, - is the small village of Gbara.
0:39:39 > 0:39:42- The river - is the heart of the village.
0:39:42 > 0:39:45- Fishermen rely on it - and so do the crops.
0:39:45 > 0:39:47- It's hot here all year round.
0:39:48 > 0:39:50- It's a dusty and humid place.
0:39:50 > 0:39:55- It's one of the prettiest villages - in this part of West Africa.
0:39:55 > 0:39:59- Though not on the map, - it is of importance historically.
0:39:59 > 0:40:02- It's the ancient cradle - of the Nupe people.
0:40:03 > 0:40:07- There is no tap water, - no electricity or grand buildings.
0:40:07 > 0:40:12- There are only mud huts, - stalls and the school.
0:40:13 > 0:40:15- I taught children - aged between 10 and 15.
0:40:16 > 0:40:21- With over 500 languages in Nigeria, - English is the official language.
0:40:21 > 0:40:25- Nupe is the language of the home - and the street in this region.
0:40:25 > 0:40:29- The children were very keen - to learn English.
0:40:29 > 0:40:33- I remember the cute faces in class - and everyone listening intently.
0:40:33 > 0:40:36- They understood - very little at the outset...
0:40:36 > 0:40:39- ..but class - was always a place to have fun.
0:40:39 > 0:40:43- I arrive at Government - Day Secondary School, Gbara...
0:40:43 > 0:40:45- ..for the first time - in over 20 years.
0:40:46 > 0:40:50- Here, waiting for me, are all - the Gbara people, young and old.
0:40:50 > 0:40:54- They include my former pupils - who have travelled here from afar.
0:41:00 > 0:41:03- My ex-students.
0:41:05 > 0:41:08- You remember I am Miss Bethan.
0:41:08 > 0:41:11- Miss Maura and Miss Eilish - were before me.
0:41:11 > 0:41:13- Yes?
0:41:13 > 0:41:17- Katie came for a year too. - Katie and I, we came in 1984.
0:41:17 > 0:41:20- Katie had to leave in 1985.
0:41:20 > 0:41:23- I stayed until 1986. Yes?
0:41:23 > 0:41:27- Seeing the old familiar faces - is a shock to the system.
0:41:27 > 0:41:32- They were children, - but look at them now, all grown up.
0:41:33 > 0:41:35- Obviously, their lives have changed.
0:41:36 > 0:41:40- All teachers have their favourites, - and I'm no exception.
0:41:40 > 0:41:43- Some of you have not changed at all.
0:41:43 > 0:41:47- I recognized you - when you walked in to Mr Bigg's.
0:41:47 > 0:41:52- Umar, you have not changed. - You are exactly the same.
0:41:53 > 0:41:56- And who else? Yunusa, where are you?
0:41:56 > 0:41:58- He's exactly the same.
0:41:58 > 0:42:01- You still look like - when you were 14.
0:42:01 > 0:42:03- LAUGHTER
0:42:05 > 0:42:08- How many wives do you have?
0:42:08 > 0:42:10- How many wives?
0:42:11 > 0:42:13- Four good wives.
0:42:13 > 0:42:15- LAUGHTER
0:42:18 > 0:42:21- Jibrin. Where is Jibrin?
0:42:22 > 0:42:24- You haven't changed.
0:42:25 > 0:42:26- LAUGHTER
0:42:27 > 0:42:31- I tell them that I've published - my diary of our time together.
0:42:31 > 0:42:34- It included - some remarkable letters.
0:42:35 > 0:42:37- Some of you sent me - one or two letters.
0:42:37 > 0:42:42- But there was one boy, he sent - letter after letter after letter.
0:42:42 > 0:42:46- Abdullahi Umar Lenfa-Kuso.
0:42:46 > 0:42:48- It's printed in here.
0:42:48 > 0:42:50- Another one!
0:42:50 > 0:42:54- "Yours faithfully, - Abdullahi Umar Lenfa-Kuso."
0:42:54 > 0:42:57- Here we are. 30th April, 1986.
0:42:58 > 0:43:02- "Since you leave, we have - no English teacher up to now."
0:43:02 > 0:43:05- You didn't have one for a long time.
0:43:05 > 0:43:07- This is Yakubu.
0:43:07 > 0:43:10- I told you - I had some very clever pupils.
0:43:10 > 0:43:13- Yakubu is a genius. Correct?
0:43:14 > 0:43:16- That's you, isn't it?
0:43:17 > 0:43:22- Come here. This is how he looked - when he was a young lad.
0:43:25 > 0:43:27- This whole experience - is quite bonkers.
0:43:27 > 0:43:30- I knew it would be - - I said so, didn't I?
0:43:30 > 0:43:34- I'm all sweaty - but it's lovely seeing them again.
0:43:34 > 0:43:35- Very nice to see you.
0:43:36 > 0:43:39- A favourite photo of the time - has some six pupils in it.
0:43:40 > 0:43:42- I wanted to see - if we could re-create it.
0:43:43 > 0:43:46- In the end, as usual, - everyone wanted to be in it!
0:43:46 > 0:43:48- Cheese!
0:43:48 > 0:43:51- When I had the opportunity - to come back...
0:43:52 > 0:43:54- ..I thought, "Oh, 25 years."
0:43:54 > 0:43:58- Maybe it's too long. Maybe, - I won't remember you, nor you me.
0:43:59 > 0:44:01- Maybe we'll have changed so much.
0:44:01 > 0:44:03- Some of you have changed, yes.
0:44:03 > 0:44:07- Some of you are very big now.
0:44:07 > 0:44:09- Did you think you'd see me again?
0:44:09 > 0:44:10- Yes?
0:44:10 > 0:44:12- Yes?- - No, we never think.
0:44:12 > 0:44:15- I didn't think I'd see you again.
0:44:15 > 0:44:20- I always thought I want to go back, - but, you know, life goes on.
0:44:20 > 0:44:24- I just want you to know - I'm so proud of you.
0:44:24 > 0:44:27- It's true what I said - - it was worth it.
0:44:27 > 0:44:31- It was worth it then. - It's worth it more now.
0:44:31 > 0:44:33- OK, I've finished now.
0:44:38 > 0:44:40- I leave the old English class.
0:44:41 > 0:44:44- Victor says that a party - has been arranged for me.
0:44:44 > 0:44:48- Suddenly, the village chief - starts to bow before me.
0:44:48 > 0:44:50- Coroni!
0:44:50 > 0:44:52- OK.
0:44:52 > 0:44:56- You're going for the turbaning - right now, to turban you.
0:44:57 > 0:45:00- Wait. - He said a word there - "coroni"?
0:45:00 > 0:45:05- Coroni. That's what he gave you, - he gave you now, the coronation.
0:45:05 > 0:45:08- But he said "coroni" - - it's the same in Welsh!
0:45:09 > 0:45:11- Oh, really?
0:45:11 > 0:45:15- I realize that it's not just - a party. It's a ceremonial occasion.
0:45:16 > 0:45:18- It's a ceremony for me!
0:45:19 > 0:45:23- The people of Nigeria - know how to organize a ceremony.
0:45:26 > 0:45:31- It's like an eisteddfod - - a pavilion, crowd, musicians...
0:45:32 > 0:45:36- ..and important people all around, - even the Emir's deputy.
0:45:36 > 0:45:38- I had no idea this would happen.
0:45:39 > 0:45:42- I'd guessed they'd wanted - to welcome me...
0:45:42 > 0:45:45- ..but never on this sort of scale.
0:45:45 > 0:45:47- SINGING
0:46:04 > 0:46:06- Next, I was covered with money.
0:46:07 > 0:46:10- It seems that this is the way - the singers are paid.
0:46:13 > 0:46:15- From what I understand...
0:46:16 > 0:46:19- ..this is a large, - important ceremony...
0:46:19 > 0:46:23- ..and it's usually reserved - for honouring new village chiefs...
0:46:23 > 0:46:25- ..or someone akin to a chief.
0:46:26 > 0:46:28- DRUMBEATS
0:46:34 > 0:46:37- One by one, - speeches are made to the crowd.
0:46:38 > 0:46:42- The speakers are happy to be - important and to exaggerate!
0:46:42 > 0:46:45- SPEECHES
0:46:46 > 0:46:50- After a while, I understand - what's going to happen.
0:46:52 > 0:46:55- I'm now an ambassador of Gbara. - Yes, me.
0:46:58 > 0:47:02- This explains - the presence of the Emir's deputy.
0:47:12 > 0:47:14- APPLAUSE
0:47:15 > 0:47:20- It's time now for my maiden speech - as the Jikadia of Gbara.
0:47:25 > 0:47:27- NUPE GREETING
0:47:31 > 0:47:33- You see, I still remember.
0:47:33 > 0:47:36- Yes.
0:47:36 > 0:47:40- Many of you have mentioned - that you were glad...
0:47:40 > 0:47:43- ..that people like myself, - Miss Katie, Miss Maura...
0:47:44 > 0:47:46- ..and Miss Eilish before us...
0:47:46 > 0:47:50- ..that we could leave - the luxuries at home...
0:47:50 > 0:47:53- ..and live with you here in Gbara.
0:47:53 > 0:47:56- But what I must explain is...
0:47:57 > 0:47:59- ..yes, it was hard...
0:47:59 > 0:48:01- ..yes, it was difficult...
0:48:01 > 0:48:05- ..yes, walking to Dancitagi - in the sun was urgh!
0:48:05 > 0:48:08- APPLAUSE
0:48:09 > 0:48:12- And when the mosquitoes - came at night...
0:48:12 > 0:48:14- ..argh!
0:48:16 > 0:48:20- It didn't matter, - because the people of Gbara...
0:48:20 > 0:48:23- ..the students of GDSS Gbara...
0:48:23 > 0:48:26- ..were fantastic.
0:48:26 > 0:48:28- APPLAUSE
0:48:28 > 0:48:30- Yes, clap yourselves.
0:48:30 > 0:48:34- I can also say that there are - some ex-pupils here present...
0:48:35 > 0:48:39- ..who are the most intelligent - people I've ever taught in my life.
0:48:40 > 0:48:42- APPLAUSE
0:48:43 > 0:48:47- How do you thank people - for such a welcome and honour?
0:48:47 > 0:48:51- I'd like them to know - that living and learning here...
0:48:52 > 0:48:54- ..despite the poverty - and lack of resources...
0:48:55 > 0:48:57- ..was one of the best experiences - of my life.
0:48:58 > 0:49:02- I'm here to thank them, - not the other way around.
0:49:02 > 0:49:06- I am so grateful. Thank you - everybody who was involved.
0:49:06 > 0:49:09- I am very, very honoured.
0:49:09 > 0:49:12- Thank you very much, - heartfelt thanks - what an honour.
0:49:13 > 0:49:15- SHE SPEAKS IN NUPE
0:49:15 > 0:49:17- I don't know what else to say - in Nupe.
0:49:18 > 0:49:20- SHE SPEAKS IN NUPE
0:49:20 > 0:49:22- LAUGHTER
0:49:22 > 0:49:24- SINGING
0:49:24 > 0:49:29- To the sound of wailing women, - I'm robed as a Jikadia.
0:49:29 > 0:49:32- The hat's a bit tricky - because of my big head.
0:49:34 > 0:49:36- It's not like the Urdd crown.
0:49:56 > 0:50:01- Then the craziest show on earth - gets under way.
0:50:01 > 0:50:04- It's not like - the Eisteddfod floral dance.
0:50:04 > 0:50:07- This is why I love Nigeria so much.
0:50:37 > 0:50:39- He's a former pupil of mine.
0:51:00 > 0:51:03- I've always wanted - someone to sing just for me.
0:51:03 > 0:51:08- By dusk, I'd experienced - all the emotions under the sun!
0:51:08 > 0:51:12- My first day in Gbara...
0:51:12 > 0:51:16- ..was wildly insane, - more than I'd imagined, a shock.
0:51:17 > 0:51:18- How do I feel about it?
0:51:18 > 0:51:20- A bit... er... oh, God!
0:51:20 > 0:51:23- I don't really deserve it, do I?
0:51:23 > 0:51:25- But, um....
0:51:25 > 0:51:27- ..I'm really delighted...
0:51:27 > 0:51:29- ..delighted.
0:51:38 > 0:51:41- Don't miss the next programme.
0:51:41 > 0:51:44- Watch the children having fun - at their lessons.
0:51:45 > 0:51:48- Learn about ancient and traditional - Nupe ways and customs.
0:51:49 > 0:51:54- Listen to the heartbreaking story - of one exceptional ex-pupil.
0:51:54 > 0:51:59- See me laughing and crying - on a real emotional rollercoaster.
0:51:59 > 0:52:03- You'll see why I still say - that the people of Gbara...
0:52:04 > 0:52:06- ..are the most amiable on earth.
0:52:35 > 0:52:37- S4C Subtitles by Simian 04 Cyf.
0:52:37 > 0:52:38- .