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0:00:36 > 0:00:38- Pembrokeshire's coastal path...
0:00:38 > 0:00:42- ..stretches for more than 186 miles.
0:00:42 > 0:00:44- Beginning in Amroth...
0:00:44 > 0:00:48- ..it will guide us - to our journey's end in St Dogmaels.
0:00:50 > 0:00:55- Over the next six weeks, we will - visit several different locations...
0:00:55 > 0:01:00- ..focusing on architecture, geology, - wildlife and man's history.
0:01:01 > 0:01:05- Joining me on my journey - is naturalist Elinor Gwynn...
0:01:06 > 0:01:09- ..and poet and scholar - Damian Walford Davies...
0:01:09 > 0:01:13- ..who enjoys looking back - through history.
0:01:14 > 0:01:18- Creating a coastal path came about - during a period of optimism...
0:01:18 > 0:01:21- ..following the Second World War.
0:01:21 > 0:01:24- In 1951, - renowned naturalist RM Lockley...
0:01:24 > 0:01:26- ..worked out the path's route.
0:01:27 > 0:01:30- A study was presented - to the government in 1953...
0:01:30 > 0:01:35- ..but it took until 1970 to get - the permission of 150 landowners...
0:01:35 > 0:01:38- ..before they could officially open - the path.
0:01:54 > 0:01:56- This is a diverse path...
0:01:57 > 0:02:00- ..in terms of nature, - landscape and the history of man.
0:02:00 > 0:02:03- It has something for everyone.
0:02:03 > 0:02:07- It's 186 miles long - and full of diversity...
0:02:08 > 0:02:10- ..from its limestone cliffs...
0:02:10 > 0:02:14- ..and St Brides Bay with its views - across the peninsula...
0:02:15 > 0:02:18- ..to the remarkable - northern landscape.
0:02:18 > 0:02:22- There's also a variety of sea birds - and plant life here...
0:02:22 > 0:02:25- ..so there's plenty - to suit all tastes.
0:02:26 > 0:02:29- The path's creator - must have been a diplomat.
0:02:29 > 0:02:32- I think the 17 years it took...
0:02:32 > 0:02:36- ..for the path to finally be created - in 1970...
0:02:36 > 0:02:39- ..was something extraordinary - and unique.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43- We must thank the landowners - because most of the path...
0:02:44 > 0:02:46- ..runs through private land.
0:02:46 > 0:02:51- Their generosity and willingness to - cooperate with the National Park...
0:02:52 > 0:02:56- ..means that the thousands - who walk along this path...
0:02:56 > 0:03:00- ..are treated to the area's - breathtaking scenery.
0:03:00 > 0:03:06- I've heard that it's wise to begin - in the south and head northwards.
0:03:06 > 0:03:11- It's true. Those who have walked it - say it's best to begin in the south.
0:03:12 > 0:03:15- The start is much steeper - going south from St Dogmaels.
0:03:15 > 0:03:19- Once you reach that area, - you have become used to the terrain.
0:03:20 > 0:03:23- The legs have hardened - and it's easier to walk.
0:03:25 > 0:03:29- Our journey takes us - from the dramatic beach at Amroth...
0:03:29 > 0:03:33- ..to the remarkable geology - of Skrinkle Haven.
0:03:33 > 0:03:37- My first port of call is Tenby.
0:03:40 > 0:03:42- With its picturesque harbour...
0:03:42 > 0:03:46- ..and glorious architecture - from various eras...
0:03:46 > 0:03:48- ..it's a sight to behold.
0:03:50 > 0:03:54- I've been coming to Tenby - since I was five years old...
0:03:54 > 0:03:56- ..on Sunday school trips.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00- I've always thought of it - as an upper-class lady...
0:04:00 > 0:04:04- ..dressed in long, white gloves - and the finest jewellery...
0:04:04 > 0:04:07- ..that has been in the family - for generations.
0:04:07 > 0:04:11- Yes, it's an ancient, dignified - and elegant town.
0:04:21 > 0:04:26- Tenby has sustained numerous attacks - over the centuries.
0:04:26 > 0:04:31- Once the Normans settled here, the - Welsh frequently returned to attack.
0:04:31 > 0:04:35- Llywelyn ap Gruffudd - and Owain Glyndwr attacked Tenby...
0:04:35 > 0:04:37- ..as, later, did Oliver Cromwell.
0:04:38 > 0:04:40- To withstand constant attacks...
0:04:41 > 0:04:44- ..numerous defensive structures - were built in the town.
0:04:45 > 0:04:49- Towers and sturdy walls made - the inhabitants feel more secure...
0:04:50 > 0:04:55- ..when they faced a threat - from Spain in 1588.
0:05:09 > 0:05:15- But Tenby's history isn't just - about skirmishes and battles.
0:05:15 > 0:05:19- Situated in the heart of the town - is a holy haven of tranquillity.
0:05:19 > 0:05:24- The medieval parish church - of St Mary's...
0:05:24 > 0:05:28- ..is among the largest in Wales, - where tourists like myself...
0:05:28 > 0:05:30- ..can become pilgrims.
0:05:31 > 0:05:36- The church dates back to 1210, - when Gerald of Wales was its rector.
0:05:36 > 0:05:40- He complained that someone - had forgotten to pay him.
0:05:40 > 0:05:44- The seaport grew - and with it the export of canvas...
0:05:44 > 0:05:47- ..coal and leather - from Pembrokeshire.
0:05:47 > 0:05:52- In return, architectural ideas - for churches were imported...
0:05:52 > 0:05:56- ..ideas which originated - in Devon and Somerset.
0:06:07 > 0:06:10- The roof and the arches...
0:06:10 > 0:06:15- ..are heavily influenced by the - architecture of the West Country.
0:06:27 > 0:06:29- But despite the church's beauty...
0:06:30 > 0:06:33- ..it's the town's houses - which catch the eye...
0:06:33 > 0:06:36- ..and stay in the memory.
0:06:36 > 0:06:40- Are you like a child in a sweet shop - when you come here?
0:06:40 > 0:06:43- Yes. You never know - what awaits you inside.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46- The interior has the wow factor - as you enter.
0:06:47 > 0:06:50- You're greeted by something - you weren't expecting.
0:06:57 > 0:07:01- The stairs are magnificent - as they guide you upstairs.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03- You walk into this room...
0:07:04 > 0:07:06- ..and you're struck by the windows.
0:07:06 > 0:07:11- You expect to see Georgian windows, - but they have a certain quirkiness.
0:07:11 > 0:07:15- The arches in the windows - are reminiscent of the Tudor era.
0:07:15 > 0:07:18- Their shape isn't what you'd expect.
0:07:21 > 0:07:24- You'd expect to see features...
0:07:24 > 0:07:29- ..from the Tudor period because the - town is crammed with such buildings.
0:07:29 > 0:07:32- But they fell into disrepair...
0:07:32 > 0:07:36- ..and houses like these - capitalized on that fact.
0:07:36 > 0:07:39- That's an interesting way - of looking at it.
0:07:40 > 0:07:45- There were many medieval buildings - and later came the Tudor buildings.
0:07:46 > 0:07:49- There are narrow streets...
0:07:49 > 0:07:52- ..and low-level houses.
0:07:52 > 0:07:56- You then come across - these grander buildings...
0:07:56 > 0:07:59- ..that are more substantial.
0:07:59 > 0:08:04- They either replaced or were built - on top of low-level houses.
0:08:04 > 0:08:09- Perhaps they looked back in time - and recreated what was here before.
0:08:10 > 0:08:14- They kept certain features - like the arches...
0:08:14 > 0:08:17- ..and incorporated them - in the new houses.
0:08:17 > 0:08:21- Some experts suggest - that this type of architecture...
0:08:22 > 0:08:24- ..is the safe option.
0:08:24 > 0:08:27- Would you agree with them?
0:08:27 > 0:08:30- It's safe in one respect - because in the Georgian era...
0:08:31 > 0:08:34- ..they liked square, rectangular - or cubic structures.
0:08:35 > 0:08:40- But they have incorporated - different shapes and features...
0:08:40 > 0:08:43- ..like the arches, - and somehow it works.
0:08:50 > 0:08:53- In terms of growth...
0:08:53 > 0:08:57- ..the town has always attracted - lots of tourists.
0:08:58 > 0:09:01- They were often - well-heeled tourists.
0:09:01 > 0:09:03- Certainly by the 18th century...
0:09:04 > 0:09:07- ..wealthy Britons - took a fancy to the place...
0:09:07 > 0:09:13- ..and it became fashionable to own - a holiday home here in Tenby.
0:09:13 > 0:09:17- Once one person came here, - others followed...
0:09:17 > 0:09:19- ..and they therefore set a trend.
0:09:20 > 0:09:22- A lot of hard work...
0:09:23 > 0:09:26- ..has gone into this house, - Norton House...
0:09:26 > 0:09:28- ..because it was almost a ruin.
0:09:29 > 0:09:33- Yes, I was looking at photographs - of the place back in 1995.
0:09:33 > 0:09:36- It's remarkable what they've done.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39- They've taken us back in time...
0:09:40 > 0:09:43- ..to an age - when it was in its heyday.
0:09:43 > 0:09:46- They've retained its character...
0:09:46 > 0:09:49- ..which is so typical of the era.
0:10:06 > 0:10:11- In the old days, the residents of - Tenby made a living from fishing.
0:10:11 > 0:10:15- These days, - they're netting tourists instead.
0:10:16 > 0:10:19- It's easy to see why, - with pastel-coloured houses...
0:10:19 > 0:10:21- ..varied architecture...
0:10:22 > 0:10:25- ..and, of course, - the constant presence of the sea.
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0:10:52 > 0:10:56- Our next stop on the Pembrokeshire - Coastal Path is Skrinkle Haven.
0:10:56 > 0:11:00- Elinor is captivated - by its floral tapestry.
0:11:02 > 0:11:06- Among the Pembrokeshire Coastal - Path's most beautiful habitats...
0:11:07 > 0:11:10- ..are the colourful - grassy cliff tops.
0:11:10 > 0:11:13- The best examples - are where the soil is fine...
0:11:14 > 0:11:17- ..and the sea's influence - is at its most powerful.
0:11:17 > 0:11:20- Many of the plants - in this habitat...
0:11:20 > 0:11:24- ..have adapted to the wild elements - and rugged landscape.
0:11:24 > 0:11:27- Thrift grows on the cliff's edge.
0:11:28 > 0:11:31- This flower - grows into a pillow shape.
0:11:31 > 0:11:35- It retains a great deal of moisture - in its petals.
0:11:37 > 0:11:39- Of all the spring flowers...
0:11:39 > 0:11:44- ..my favourite is the spring squill, - a member of the bluebell family.
0:11:45 > 0:11:48- Its thin, yarn-like leaves...
0:11:48 > 0:11:51- ..cover the ground - like wriggly worms.
0:11:56 > 0:12:00- If I walk about ten steps - to the other side of the path...
0:12:00 > 0:12:04- ..I suddenly find myself - in a different habitat.
0:12:05 > 0:12:08- The wind has dipped - and the soil is thicker.
0:12:08 > 0:12:10- It's a grassier location...
0:12:11 > 0:12:15- ..full of wood sorrel, - foxgloves and violets.
0:12:15 > 0:12:19- There is a covering of nettles...
0:12:19 > 0:12:22- ..which is indicative - of fertile soil.
0:12:28 > 0:12:32- Around the corner, - I'm in my seventh heaven.
0:12:32 > 0:12:37- Bees buzz all around me as I walk - through a bed of wild garlic.
0:12:39 > 0:12:41- This plant thrives in fertile soil.
0:12:42 > 0:12:45- The influence - of the limestone below...
0:12:45 > 0:12:49- ..creates an ideal habitat - for this flowering plant.
0:12:50 > 0:12:52- Its white pompoms bloom in April.
0:12:53 > 0:12:58- Among the wild garlic are bluebells, - which flower throughout May.
0:13:04 > 0:13:07- One of the earliest bloomers - on the cliff top...
0:13:07 > 0:13:10- ..is scurvy grass.
0:13:10 > 0:13:14- The Welsh name for it - derives from its leaves...
0:13:15 > 0:13:17- ..which are shaped - like large spoons.
0:13:17 > 0:13:21- In the past, it was known - for its healing properties.
0:13:21 > 0:13:24- It was used by sailors - suffering from scurvy.
0:13:24 > 0:13:28- They'd come ashore to search - for this plant to chew...
0:13:28 > 0:13:32- ..in order to absorb the vitamin C - found in its leaves.
0:13:32 > 0:13:37- We see many precious plants - flowering on this coastal path...
0:13:37 > 0:13:41- ..and they are still as precious - as they once were.
0:14:10 > 0:14:16- The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path - is a modern recreational path.
0:14:16 > 0:14:19- But each time I walk along it...
0:14:19 > 0:14:22- ..I'm conscious of the fact - that the path...
0:14:22 > 0:14:25- ..connects with wider networks.
0:14:25 > 0:14:29- For example, the Cistercian Way - that connected Whitland...
0:14:29 > 0:14:31- ..to Caldey Island.
0:14:32 > 0:14:36- And what about the tourist trails - that stem from Tenby?
0:14:37 > 0:14:40- I'm here in Gumfreston...
0:14:40 > 0:14:43- ..to explore those networks.
0:14:43 > 0:14:47- Gumfreston is less than two miles - west of Tenby...
0:14:47 > 0:14:51- ..and it's here - that all those networks meet.
0:14:55 > 0:14:59- What first attracted people - to Gumfreston...
0:14:59 > 0:15:03- ..a damp rural corner - that is now a churchyard?
0:15:03 > 0:15:07- The answer is three holy wells...
0:15:07 > 0:15:10- ..from three separate sources...
0:15:12 > 0:15:16- ..two of which - bear sulphur and iron.
0:15:17 > 0:15:20- When the wealthy visited Tenby - in the 18th century...
0:15:20 > 0:15:24- ..they sent the town's young men - to Gumfreston...
0:15:24 > 0:15:27- ..to collect the water in a bottle.
0:15:29 > 0:15:34- During the sixth century, monks - used the water for christenings...
0:15:34 > 0:15:36- ..and as a cure for leprosy.
0:15:36 > 0:15:42- In the 18th century, locals used it - to treat rheumatism...
0:15:43 > 0:15:44- ..and eye problems.
0:15:45 > 0:15:46- In the 17th century...
0:15:47 > 0:15:52- ..when Puritanism ended many - of Wales's colourful customs...
0:15:52 > 0:15:56- ..authorities still complained - that locals came to this well...
0:15:57 > 0:15:59- ..to throw pins or nails - into the water.
0:16:00 > 0:16:03- It was an interesting custom - known as throwing Lent away.
0:16:04 > 0:16:08- People came here on Easter Sunday - to mark the crucifixion's end...
0:16:09 > 0:16:13- ..and also the end of a period - of suffering and penance.
0:16:30 > 0:16:34- The wells - first attracted people here.
0:16:34 > 0:16:38- The 12th-century church - was a later addition.
0:16:38 > 0:16:42- Some parts of it date back - to the 14th and 15th centuries.
0:16:42 > 0:16:46- The tower typifies those found - in southern Pembrokeshire...
0:16:47 > 0:16:50- ..rather than the smaller - Celtic churches of the north.
0:17:04 > 0:17:08- Inside St Lawrence's Church, there - are references to the crucifixion.
0:17:09 > 0:17:13- This is a medieval wall painting - that is very hard to make out.
0:17:13 > 0:17:18- Although it's cracked, - there are two interpretations.
0:17:18 > 0:17:22- One is St Lawrence's martyrdom. - This is his gridiron.
0:17:22 > 0:17:26- Legend has it that St Lawrence - was martyred on one of these.
0:17:26 > 0:17:29- He was cooked to death.
0:17:29 > 0:17:33- He apparently endured his torture - and jokingly told his torturers...
0:17:33 > 0:17:37- .."Turn me over, lads, - I think I'm cooked on this side."
0:17:37 > 0:17:41- The second interpretation - is the Christ of tradesmen.
0:17:41 > 0:17:45- You can make out - Christ's crucified feet...
0:17:45 > 0:17:49- ..surrounded by the craft implements - of local people.
0:17:49 > 0:17:53- It's a fishing net, not a gridiron, - and there's a pair of scissors too.
0:17:53 > 0:17:57- It's a warning - against working on a Sunday...
0:17:57 > 0:18:01- ..because breaking the Sabbath - re-crucifies Christ.
0:18:15 > 0:18:17- It's peaceful here now...
0:18:17 > 0:18:21- ..but Gumfreston - was once a bustling community.
0:18:21 > 0:18:26- I'm in the ruins of a village - that stood beside the quay...
0:18:26 > 0:18:31- ..on the estuary of the River Ritec, - which flowed through this valley.
0:18:31 > 0:18:35- Gumfreston communicated with - the world through its waterways.
0:18:36 > 0:18:40- It was a transfer point for goods - from the road to coasting vessels...
0:18:41 > 0:18:42- ..that drifted to Tenby...
0:18:43 > 0:18:45- ..and sailed out to the open seas.
0:18:46 > 0:18:49- But once the river was re-routed...
0:18:50 > 0:18:54- ..Gumfreston went from being - a bustling town to a green island.
0:18:56 > 0:18:58- Brambles - where there was once business.
0:19:13 > 0:19:18- The main reason for establishing the - Pembrokeshire Coast National Park...
0:19:18 > 0:19:23- ..was the stunning variety - of coastal cliffs and landforms.
0:19:23 > 0:19:29- They're a wonder to behold, - but are so much more than that.
0:19:29 > 0:19:31- This variety of rocks...
0:19:31 > 0:19:36- ..has created the different soils, - landscapes and slopes...
0:19:36 > 0:19:41- ..that sustain Pembrokeshire's - wonderful wildlife habitats.
0:19:45 > 0:19:51- The cliffs - have a church-like quality, Dyfed.
0:19:51 > 0:19:56- Yes, I'd agree, but there's also - a castellated feel to them.
0:19:56 > 0:19:59- They're a combination - of limestone...
0:20:00 > 0:20:03- ..and a certain amount - of mudstone...
0:20:04 > 0:20:08- ..which is far softer, of course.
0:20:09 > 0:20:12- Without them, - there wouldn't be a bay here...
0:20:12 > 0:20:17- ..because they're so much softer - than the limestone.
0:20:17 > 0:20:20- This is mudstone.
0:20:20 > 0:20:22- It's very brittle.
0:20:22 > 0:20:25- It breaks very easily.
0:20:25 > 0:20:29- But it's a very different story - when it comes to limestone.
0:20:29 > 0:20:32- It's very sturdy and durable.
0:20:32 > 0:20:35- It's brimming with fossils.
0:20:35 > 0:20:38- What we're seeing here - are remnants of shells.
0:20:39 > 0:20:41- Shells that thrived...
0:20:41 > 0:20:44- ..in tropical, warm, shallow water.
0:20:44 > 0:20:50- This region is also famous - for its combination of limestone...
0:20:50 > 0:20:54- ..sandstone and coal - within a relatively small area.
0:20:55 > 0:20:59- Yes, indeed, although there is only - limestone and mudstone in this bay.
0:21:00 > 0:21:04- If we went to the other bay - situated behind us...
0:21:04 > 0:21:09- ..we'd find the reddish stone, - which is older than the limestone.
0:21:09 > 0:21:11- Inside that red stone...
0:21:12 > 0:21:16- ..you will find a combination - of sandstone layers...
0:21:16 > 0:21:20- ..along with many layers - of mudstone.
0:21:20 > 0:21:23- What's so striking - about this view...
0:21:23 > 0:21:26- ..is that the layers are vertical.
0:21:26 > 0:21:30- It begs the question, why?
0:21:30 > 0:21:35- Throughout different periods - in the earth's history...
0:21:36 > 0:21:39- ..powerful movements - were also occurring...
0:21:39 > 0:21:43- ..when continents - collided against one another.
0:21:43 > 0:21:47- The rocks folded as a consequence...
0:21:48 > 0:21:52- ..leaving once-horizontal strata - standing vertical.
0:21:52 > 0:21:55- That's what's so striking here...
0:21:55 > 0:21:58- ..especially when you look across...
0:21:58 > 0:22:02- ..to that amazing arch - across the water.
0:22:06 > 0:22:10- Powerful forces have created - this rugged landscape.
0:22:10 > 0:22:14- Forces that have been at work - for millions of years.
0:22:15 > 0:22:17- Although it looks so permanent...
0:22:18 > 0:22:21- ..the truth is, - no landscape remains unchanged.
0:22:21 > 0:22:24- Forces are constantly shaping - the landscape.
0:22:25 > 0:22:27- The sea and the weather - pound the land...
0:22:27 > 0:22:32- ..and human intervention is at work, - shaping Pembrokeshire's landscape.
0:22:40 > 0:22:43- # If I were in your company
0:22:44 > 0:22:47- # We'd walk along the shore
0:22:48 > 0:22:51- # Waves would break on the beach
0:22:53 > 0:22:55- # The wind would leave a scar #
0:22:57 > 0:23:03- Next week, as we continue along - the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path...
0:23:03 > 0:23:06- ..Damian visits Castlemartin...
0:23:06 > 0:23:10- ..Elinor explores the beach - in Angle...
0:23:14 > 0:23:16- ..and I'm in Manorbier...
0:23:17 > 0:23:22- ..to discuss that prominent - historical figure, Gerald of Wales.
0:23:22 > 0:23:25- # At rest with you
0:23:26 > 0:23:29- # At rest with you #
0:23:42 > 0:23:44- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:23:44 > 0:23:44- .