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0:00:36 > 0:00:39- The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path - National Trail...
0:00:39 > 0:00:42- ..stretches for more than 186 miles.
0:00:42 > 0:00:45- Beginning in Amroth, - it will guide us...
0:00:45 > 0:00:48- ..to our journey's end - in St Dogmaels.
0:00:50 > 0:00:54- Over the coming weeks, we'll visit - several different locations...
0:00:55 > 0:01:00- ..focusing on archaeology, geology, - wildlife and man's history.
0:01:02 > 0:01:06- Joining me on my journey - is naturalist Elinor Gwynn...
0:01:07 > 0:01:10- ..and poet and scholar - Damian Walford Davies...
0:01:10 > 0:01:14- ..who enjoys looking back - through history.
0:01:25 > 0:01:29- Today's journey along - the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path...
0:01:29 > 0:01:34- ..takes us from Manorbier and - its dramatic castle to Angle Bay.
0:01:55 > 0:01:58- The name Manorbier - means manor of Pyr.
0:01:59 > 0:02:03- Pyr established a hermit's cell - on Caldey Island...
0:02:03 > 0:02:06- ..in the sixth century.
0:02:06 > 0:02:09- It later grew - into a monastic community.
0:02:09 > 0:02:14- Unfortunately, Pyr drowned - in the sea off the island in 521.
0:02:14 > 0:02:19- Manorbier is linked to someone - far more famous - Gerald of Wales.
0:02:20 > 0:02:23- In one of his books, - he wrote that Dyfed...
0:02:23 > 0:02:27- ..is the most productive place - in Wales...
0:02:27 > 0:02:30- ..that Pembroke - is the prettiest part of Dyfed...
0:02:31 > 0:02:35- ..and that this is the most - pleasant place in Pembroke.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40- It's no wonder he said that, - because he was born here.
0:02:55 > 0:02:58- Gerald belonged - to an influential family.
0:02:59 > 0:03:02- His father, William de Barri, - was a Norman knight...
0:03:03 > 0:03:05- ..who took his name - from Barry Island.
0:03:06 > 0:03:10- His mother, Angharad, - was the daughter of Princess Nest.
0:03:10 > 0:03:13- Because of these connections, - Gerald knew everyone.
0:03:13 > 0:03:17- The kings of England, - the princes of Wales and the Pope.
0:03:37 > 0:03:41- Growing up, Gerald's family - called him the little bishop.
0:03:42 > 0:03:45- His Uncle David - was the Bishop of St David's.
0:03:45 > 0:03:48- Gerald grew to be a remarkable man.
0:03:48 > 0:03:53- He was self-righteous, - obsessional, energetic and complex.
0:03:53 > 0:03:58- Although his brothers were happy - to be honourable Norman soldiers...
0:03:58 > 0:04:02- ..he preferred to embrace - his Welsh heritage.
0:04:08 > 0:04:13- In 1188, - Gerald journeyed around Wales...
0:04:13 > 0:04:16- ..and wrote a book - about his travels.
0:04:16 > 0:04:19- This is the first travel guide - to Wales.
0:04:19 > 0:04:24- He describes everything he sees - - miracles, people and landscapes...
0:04:24 > 0:04:29- ..from picturesque Snowdonia - to his beloved Pembrokeshire.
0:04:33 > 0:04:36- He was an international figure - in his day...
0:04:36 > 0:04:38- ..although the world - was smaller then.
0:04:39 > 0:04:43- It was to a certain degree, - but he was an intrepid traveller.
0:04:43 > 0:04:47- He received a church education - in Gloucester...
0:04:47 > 0:04:50- ..and later studied - at the University of Paris.
0:04:50 > 0:04:54- He accompanied the king of England - on his travels...
0:04:54 > 0:04:58- ..he journeyed throughout Wales - and visited Rome three times.
0:04:59 > 0:05:02- He saw a lot - of the Latin Christian world.
0:05:02 > 0:05:06- He had designs on becoming - the Archbishop of St David's...
0:05:07 > 0:05:10- ..but essentially he was a cleric - who wanted to go far.
0:05:11 > 0:05:14- He longed to be appointed - to a wealthy bishopric...
0:05:14 > 0:05:17- ..but these tended to be in England.
0:05:17 > 0:05:21- He was offered four bishoprics...
0:05:21 > 0:05:24- ..two in Ireland, - as well as Bangor and St Asaph.
0:05:25 > 0:05:27- He turned them all down.
0:05:27 > 0:05:31- The second time he was nominated - as Bishop of St David's...
0:05:31 > 0:05:33- ..he was over 50 years old.
0:05:33 > 0:05:37- He realized that the English - bishoprics were out of his reach.
0:05:38 > 0:05:41- Instead, he focused on St David's - and made the most of it.
0:05:42 > 0:05:45- He argued that the bishopric - of St David's...
0:05:45 > 0:05:50- ..should be the archbishopric - of Wales, which was ambitious.
0:05:51 > 0:05:55- It was an ambition - that he failed to fulfil.
0:05:55 > 0:06:01- He was three-quarters Norman - and coveted a bishopric in England.
0:06:01 > 0:06:04- Why then is he called - Gerald of Wales?
0:06:04 > 0:06:08- His Latin name, Giraldus Cambrensis, - is ambiguous.
0:06:08 > 0:06:12- His English name is perhaps - more fitting - Gerald of Wales.
0:06:13 > 0:06:16- Essentially, that's what he was.
0:06:16 > 0:06:19- He came from Wales - but wasn't a true Welshman.
0:06:19 > 0:06:21- He couldn't even speak Welsh.
0:06:29 > 0:06:34- It's difficult to sum up - Gerald's trials and tribulations.
0:06:35 > 0:06:37- He was a diplomat and theologian...
0:06:37 > 0:06:40- ..a prolific author - and tireless traveller.
0:06:41 > 0:06:43- But one thing is certain.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46- He was one of the most - charismatic characters...
0:06:47 > 0:06:49- ..of the turbulent Middle Ages.
0:07:10 > 0:07:15- This is Stackpole National Nature - Reserve, south of Pembroke.
0:07:16 > 0:07:19- I'm here today to catch a glimpse - of a rare creature.
0:07:19 > 0:07:22- It's one of Wales's rarest bats.
0:07:34 > 0:07:37- There are 69 species - of horseshoe bat...
0:07:37 > 0:07:40- ..five in Europe and two in Britain.
0:07:40 > 0:07:43- Both the greater horseshoe bat...
0:07:43 > 0:07:46- ..and the lesser horseshoe bat - can be found in Stackpole.
0:07:47 > 0:07:50- The greater horseshoe bat - is the rarer of the two.
0:07:50 > 0:07:54- In terms of size and shape, - they resemble a fist...
0:07:54 > 0:07:57- ..and weigh - between 15 and 34 grams.
0:08:03 > 0:08:05- Why are they called horseshoe bats?
0:08:06 > 0:08:11- The folds around the nose - are shaped like a horseshoe.
0:08:12 > 0:08:15- It's associated - with their predatory function.
0:08:15 > 0:08:19- They emit ultrasound - from their nostrils.
0:08:19 > 0:08:23- That hits their prey - as they fly around.
0:08:24 > 0:08:26- The sound bounces back to the bat...
0:08:26 > 0:08:31- ..so they can track the location - of the creatures they want to hunt.
0:08:37 > 0:08:41- During spring and summer, - females converge...
0:08:41 > 0:08:45- ..to give birth to their young, - one per adult female.
0:08:47 > 0:08:52- Horseshoe bats mostly gravitate - towards fairly grand buildings...
0:08:52 > 0:08:55- ..those built before the 1900s...
0:08:55 > 0:09:00- ..with plenty of loft space - and slate roofs, usually.
0:09:10 > 0:09:13- The various species of bat - eat different foods...
0:09:13 > 0:09:15- ..and hunt in different ways.
0:09:16 > 0:09:19- Some hunt by flying - over grasslands...
0:09:20 > 0:09:22- ..and swooping down on prey.
0:09:22 > 0:09:26- Some hide in the branches - of trees and pounce on prey...
0:09:26 > 0:09:28- ..as birds do.
0:09:31 > 0:09:33- They're able to travel - long distances...
0:09:34 > 0:09:38- ..as much as 14km in a night - from their nursery roosts...
0:09:38 > 0:09:40- ..to find foraging habitats.
0:09:41 > 0:09:44- There is a wealth - of unimproved grassland here.
0:09:45 > 0:09:48- It teems with insects at night.
0:10:12 > 0:10:17- It's 8.55pm and they're leaving - their roost in their droves.
0:10:17 > 0:10:21- I'd forgotten - how large these bats are.
0:10:21 > 0:10:25- Their wingspan - is around 14 inches.
0:10:25 > 0:10:29- That's much bigger - than the lesser horseshoe.
0:10:31 > 0:10:33- I've tuned in this monitor...
0:10:34 > 0:10:38- ..to a frequency of 83kHz - so that it picks up the bat noises.
0:10:38 > 0:10:41- You can hear - their wonderful gargling sound.
0:10:42 > 0:10:44- Only horseshoe bats emit this sound.
0:10:44 > 0:10:48- Other species - make a clicking or ticking sound.
0:10:48 > 0:10:51- It's a very distinctive - and pleasant sound.
0:11:00 > 0:11:05- As a keen bat watcher, I've often - watched them leave their roosts...
0:11:05 > 0:11:08- ..and hibernate underground.
0:11:08 > 0:11:12- But watching them like this - in the wild is captivating.
0:11:13 > 0:11:17- They're like black eyelashes - fluttering in the darkness.
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0:11:53 > 0:11:57- The dichotomy of the next location - on the coastal path...
0:11:57 > 0:12:00- ..has attracted Damian's attention.
0:12:00 > 0:12:04- Linney Head is both unusual - and perplexing.
0:12:04 > 0:12:09- Access to the shoreline - is restricted by the MOD.
0:12:09 > 0:12:13- We have to turn our backs - on our old friend, the sea...
0:12:13 > 0:12:15- ..and plough across the peninsula...
0:12:16 > 0:12:20- ..following roads - rather than the winding trail...
0:12:20 > 0:12:23- ..of the Pembrokeshire coastline.
0:12:23 > 0:12:27- This is a land of tension, - a land of tanks.
0:12:27 > 0:12:30- A land of chaos, a land of ruins.
0:12:35 > 0:12:37- "The swallow will find its nest...
0:12:37 > 0:12:40- "..but kinship leaves the fireside.
0:12:40 > 0:12:45- "Calendar of the homestead, - finished, and the family fled.
0:12:45 > 0:12:47- "People letting the land go wild
0:12:47 > 0:12:50- "From their heart's country exiled.
0:12:51 > 0:12:55- "A poor thing splendour will be - Along the banks of the Lini."
0:13:00 > 0:13:03- Here's a history lesson, - and like all history lessons...
0:13:04 > 0:13:06- ..it's full of paradox - and contrast.
0:13:06 > 0:13:12- In 1939, the Ministry of War - acquired 6,000 acres of land...
0:13:12 > 0:13:17- ..to create an artillery range - here on Linney Head.
0:13:17 > 0:13:21- The existing community - was forced to relocate.
0:13:24 > 0:13:29- It was easy enough to do - because they were estate tenants.
0:13:30 > 0:13:34- The West German army's panzers - occupied the range in the 1960s.
0:13:35 > 0:13:39- That arrangement - came to an end in 1996.
0:13:39 > 0:13:44- But this land is still used - as a functioning firing range...
0:13:44 > 0:13:48- ..to train young British men - and women for combat.
0:13:56 > 0:13:59- Access to the range - is restricted.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03- The guns are rarely quiet - in Castlemartin.
0:14:03 > 0:14:07- But there is now a bridle path...
0:14:08 > 0:14:10- ..that snakes its way - around the coastline.
0:14:17 > 0:14:21- When the Ministry of War announced - it was acquiring Castlemartin...
0:14:22 > 0:14:25- ..Waldo wrote - Daw'r Wennol Yn Ol I'w Nyth.
0:14:25 > 0:14:29- I'm about to read you a letter - from Waldo to Prosser Rhys...
0:14:30 > 0:14:32- ..the editor of Y Faner, in 1939.
0:14:32 > 0:14:37- "When I read the poem - that I sent you to my friends...
0:14:37 > 0:14:42- "..they said I hadn't explained - the issue clearly enough in it.
0:14:42 > 0:14:46- "It's about the farms - between the marshland and the sea...
0:14:46 > 0:14:49- "..where the tank range - will soon be located.
0:14:49 > 0:14:53- "So I rewrote the poem - in order to personalize it.
0:14:57 > 0:15:01- "The sober cows' procession - with their offering will not come.
0:15:02 > 0:15:08- "Nor in Pen-yr-Hollt you'll see - the sheep come to the valley."
0:15:12 > 0:15:18- What's your relationship - with Castlemartin, Cerwyn?
0:15:18 > 0:15:23- It stems from - the harsh winter of 1947.
0:15:23 > 0:15:27- There were huge losses in Preseli, - as there were in other parts...
0:15:27 > 0:15:29- ..due to the severe weather.
0:15:30 > 0:15:35- A Ministry of Agriculture official - by the name of WH Jones...
0:15:35 > 0:15:40- ..thought that the land - at Castlemartin...
0:15:40 > 0:15:43- ..wasn't used by the army in winter.
0:15:43 > 0:15:49- He revived the transhumance system - of moving the sheep during winter.
0:15:49 > 0:15:53- My father was one of the first - to bring sheep here...
0:15:53 > 0:15:57- ..in December 1950, - a week before I was born.
0:15:58 > 0:16:03- There's a strange atmosphere here - because of the contrasts.
0:16:03 > 0:16:04- Are you aware of it?
0:16:04 > 0:16:05- Are you aware of it?- - Yes.
0:16:06 > 0:16:11- It's wasteful because the land - isn't farmed to its full potential.
0:16:12 > 0:16:15- But we're trying - to make the most of the situation.
0:16:16 > 0:16:21- In ten, twenty, fifty years, - this might be farmland once again.
0:16:37 > 0:16:42- This land is a land - of remarkable contrast.
0:16:42 > 0:16:44- On the one hand...
0:16:44 > 0:16:48- ..I see young men - training for the next war.
0:16:48 > 0:16:53- Some are preparing for another - tour of duty in Afghanistan.
0:16:53 > 0:16:59- But as I look around me, I see - a wonderful habitat for wildlife.
0:16:59 > 0:17:02- A diversity of insects and birds.
0:17:02 > 0:17:06- This land hasn't been farmed - since the 1930s.
0:17:07 > 0:17:09- There are no chemicals in the soil.
0:17:10 > 0:17:13- So I'm prompted to ask - the following question...
0:17:13 > 0:17:16- ..in the words of Waldo...
0:17:16 > 0:17:20- .."Winter will pass, but will - the swallow return to its nest?"
0:17:44 > 0:17:48- The coastline is a difficult - environment for wildlife.
0:17:48 > 0:17:52- Imagine how it must feel - being beaten by waves...
0:17:52 > 0:17:55- ..and sucked out - of your familiar habitat...
0:17:55 > 0:18:00- ..and then left exposed to fight - the elements and predators?
0:18:00 > 0:18:03- Because it is so difficult...
0:18:03 > 0:18:07- ..wildlife has had to adapt - in numerous different ways.
0:18:07 > 0:18:11- They've had to adjust - to extremes in temperature...
0:18:11 > 0:18:13- ..and learn to store water.
0:18:14 > 0:18:17- They've also had to learn - when to reproduce...
0:18:17 > 0:18:20- ..in order to synchronize - with the tide.
0:18:23 > 0:18:28- But not all species can adapt - to the change in conditions.
0:18:31 > 0:18:36- Often, species are distributed - into different bands on the beach.
0:18:37 > 0:18:41- This is especially noticeable - in seaweed on secluded beaches.
0:18:42 > 0:18:44- The highest level in all bands...
0:18:44 > 0:18:49- ..gauges the species' ability - to survive out of the sea.
0:18:51 > 0:18:54- Seaweed is among the most familiar - of seaside plants.
0:18:54 > 0:18:58- There are 600 different kinds - throughout Britain.
0:18:58 > 0:19:02- There are common species here...
0:19:02 > 0:19:08- ..the brown bladderwrack - and the green sea lettuce.
0:19:08 > 0:19:12- Interestingly, - seaweed produces mucus.
0:19:12 > 0:19:15- That's swallowed by bacteria...
0:19:16 > 0:19:19- ..and other small creatures...
0:19:19 > 0:19:22- ..and then enters the food chain.
0:19:22 > 0:19:24- Seaweed helps produce...
0:19:24 > 0:19:28- ..the wide range of nutrients - found in our Welsh seas.
0:19:31 > 0:19:33- On craggy beaches such as this...
0:19:33 > 0:19:36- ..rock pools provide - a thriving habitat.
0:19:36 > 0:19:40- They're a diversity - of smaller habitats...
0:19:40 > 0:19:43- ..that thrive underneath the cliffs.
0:19:44 > 0:19:47- One of the most beautiful creatures - is the anemone.
0:19:48 > 0:19:52- It's able to filter seawater - and clean it...
0:19:52 > 0:19:55- ..so that the sun's rays - can penetrate deeper.
0:20:03 > 0:20:08- Another familiar seaside creature - is the limpet.
0:20:08 > 0:20:10- It doesn't move very far.
0:20:11 > 0:20:13- It sticks rigidly to the rock.
0:20:14 > 0:20:18- Interestingly, they sense - the presence of predators.
0:20:18 > 0:20:20- They are eaten by starfish.
0:20:20 > 0:20:23- When the tide is in, - the shells are exposed.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27- They sense - the starfish's arm approaching...
0:20:28 > 0:20:34- ..as it tries to get at the limpet's - muscular foot under the shell.
0:20:34 > 0:20:38- It rises up like a mushroom - and slams the shell onto the rock...
0:20:38 > 0:20:41- ..pinching the starfish's arm.
0:20:44 > 0:20:47- Pollution - also affects our coastline.
0:20:47 > 0:20:52- One of the worst cases - along this stretch of shoreline...
0:20:52 > 0:20:55- ..was the Sea Empress oil spill - 15 years ago.
0:20:55 > 0:20:58- On 15 February 1996...
0:20:58 > 0:21:02- ..the Sea Empress ran aground - not far from here.
0:21:02 > 0:21:07- Over the course of five days - in blustery, stormy weather...
0:21:07 > 0:21:11- ..a total of 73,000 tonnes of oil - spilled into the sea...
0:21:11 > 0:21:16- ..and spread extensively, - reaching as far as Carmarthen Bay.
0:21:19 > 0:21:22- The tragedy happened - in late afternoon...
0:21:22 > 0:21:25- ..on that fateful day in February.
0:21:25 > 0:21:29- In 24 hours, - this beach was completely black.
0:21:29 > 0:21:34- It instantly affected the birds - that live here.
0:21:34 > 0:21:38- There is a diversity of species - in this area.
0:21:38 > 0:21:43- There was an effort to catch them - and remove the oil from them.
0:21:43 > 0:21:46- Another of the effects...
0:21:46 > 0:21:51- ..was the spraying of chemicals - to disperse the oil.
0:21:51 > 0:21:55- They were very effective, - but they were toxic.
0:21:59 > 0:22:03- They too ended up - being washed up on the shore.
0:22:04 > 0:22:09- Fifteen years on, there doesn't seem - to be any long-term damage...
0:22:09 > 0:22:12- ..to wildlife in this bay.
0:22:12 > 0:22:15- Numerous chemicals were used...
0:22:16 > 0:22:19- ..but should something else - have been used instead?
0:22:19 > 0:22:23- Spraying chemicals onto the spill - was beneficial...
0:22:23 > 0:22:29- ..because the birds were swooping - into the oil on the sea's surface.
0:22:29 > 0:22:32- In that respect, - they had a positive effect.
0:22:32 > 0:22:36- But it was a very different story - on the beach.
0:22:36 > 0:22:39- Instead of preventing - the use of chemicals...
0:22:39 > 0:22:44- ..research should be carried out - to find safer chemicals...
0:22:45 > 0:22:49- ..that won't leave a lasting effect.
0:22:49 > 0:22:50- So more work needs to be done.
0:22:50 > 0:22:52- So more work needs to be done.- - Yes, definitely.
0:22:54 > 0:22:58- # In the faint glow of the stars
0:22:58 > 0:23:01- # She stands
0:23:03 > 0:23:05- # On the threshold
0:23:07 > 0:23:10- # Of the door #
0:23:13 > 0:23:17- Next week, Damian traces - Milford Haven's history...
0:23:19 > 0:23:23- ..Elinor looks at an experiment - to expand habitats in Marloes...
0:23:24 > 0:23:27- ..and I walk along - Newgale's shingle ridge.
0:23:31 > 0:23:34- # The birds' squawk
0:23:35 > 0:23:38- # Call me forward
0:23:39 > 0:23:43- # Foolish vanity
0:23:43 > 0:23:46- # Pull me back #
0:23:51 > 0:23:53- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:23:54 > 0:23:54- .