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0:00:36 > 0:00:41- Pembrokeshire's coastal path - stretches for more than 186 miles.
0:00:41 > 0:00:46- Beginning in Amroth in the south, - it will guide us to St Dogmaels.
0:00:49 > 0:00:52- Joining me on my journey - is naturalist Elinor Gwynn...
0:00:53 > 0:00:56- ..and poet and lecturer - Damian Walford Davies.
0:01:02 > 0:01:07- Today, we head from Milford Haven - harbour to Newgale beach.
0:01:10 > 0:01:14- This stretch displays - the path's rich diversity...
0:01:14 > 0:01:18- ..of landscape, wildlife - history and industry.
0:01:22 > 0:01:28- Damian traces the history of one of - the county's most interesting towns.
0:01:32 > 0:01:34- At the end of the 18th century...
0:01:35 > 0:01:39- ..Milford Haven was no more than - two farms, one medieval chapel...
0:01:40 > 0:01:43- ..and a collection - of fisherman's cottages.
0:01:43 > 0:01:45- Things have changed.
0:01:58 > 0:02:03- Here's a list for you - - Texaco, Esso, BP, LNG.
0:02:04 > 0:02:08- Giants of the energy industry, - but a world far removed...
0:02:08 > 0:02:13- ..from the one in which Milford's - first inhabitants lived.
0:02:13 > 0:02:17- But there is something that links - those contrasting worlds.
0:02:18 > 0:02:19- Oil.
0:02:20 > 0:02:22- Milford Haven was founded in 1792...
0:02:23 > 0:02:27- ..when the families of whale hunters - from the island of Nantucket...
0:02:28 > 0:02:30- ..on the Massachusetts coast...
0:02:30 > 0:02:33- ..were invited - to establish a colony here.
0:02:50 > 0:02:54- There were several reasons - why the people of Nantucket...
0:02:54 > 0:02:57- ..were so willing to settle here.
0:02:57 > 0:03:03- Firstly, they wanted to avoid paying - the high taxes on whale oil imports.
0:03:04 > 0:03:08- They wanted to be closer to London, - the focal point of the industry.
0:03:08 > 0:03:12- As Quakers and faithful servants - of the British state...
0:03:13 > 0:03:16- ..they wanted to flee - their country...
0:03:16 > 0:03:19- ..following the seven-year - War of Independence.
0:03:19 > 0:03:23- But what were their feelings - when they landed here...
0:03:24 > 0:03:28- ..and when Milford Haven evolved - in the years that followed?
0:03:28 > 0:03:33- Street after street and building - after building were erected.
0:03:33 > 0:03:37- At the centre of it all - was the Quakers' meeting house.
0:03:43 > 0:03:47- It's hard to imagine - the families of whale hunters...
0:03:47 > 0:03:51- ..leaving Nantucket - to come to Milford Haven...
0:03:51 > 0:03:54- ..and establishing - a brand-new colony.
0:03:54 > 0:04:00- The only thing here was the sea - and safe mooring for ships nearby.
0:04:01 > 0:04:06- It was then up to them, - along with a man named Greville...
0:04:07 > 0:04:11- ..who was responsible for looking - after Lord Hamilton's land...
0:04:11 > 0:04:13- ..to develop the town.
0:04:13 > 0:04:16- That's precisely what they did.
0:04:16 > 0:04:18- Whaling was a global industry.
0:04:18 > 0:04:23- Yes, it was, - and by 1850 or thereabouts...
0:04:23 > 0:04:26- ..the Americans alone...
0:04:26 > 0:04:30- ..had a whaling fleet - of over 750 ships.
0:04:30 > 0:04:36- It was an adventure for them to come - from Nantucket to Milford Haven.
0:04:36 > 0:04:39- But they were whale hunters...
0:04:39 > 0:04:43- ..and would have been - accustomed to danger.
0:04:43 > 0:04:47- Yes, indeed, and they were - thousands of miles from home.
0:04:48 > 0:04:51- The whale is the largest mammal - in the world...
0:04:51 > 0:04:53- ..and they hunted it.
0:04:53 > 0:04:56- We're all familiar with Moby Dick.
0:04:56 > 0:05:00- In that novel, - there's a character called Starbuck.
0:05:00 > 0:05:04- The Starbucks - were the first people to land here.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08- One of them came over - to look at the place.
0:05:08 > 0:05:12- He decided it was suitable - to live and work here.
0:05:12 > 0:05:16- The town is littered - with names from history.
0:05:16 > 0:05:20- It's full of names - like Nantucket Avenue...
0:05:21 > 0:05:24- ..and Priory Road.
0:05:24 > 0:05:28- Hamilton Terrace, Charles Street - and Robert Street...
0:05:28 > 0:05:31- ..are named - after the town's founders.
0:05:46 > 0:05:51- Unfortunately, the success of the - Milford Americans was short-lived.
0:05:51 > 0:05:54- The world turned - to another form of fuel...
0:05:54 > 0:05:57- ..oil derived from coal - rather than whale oil.
0:05:57 > 0:06:01- Many of the Quakers left, - some of them moving to London...
0:06:01 > 0:06:04- ..others moving back to Nantucket.
0:06:04 > 0:06:09- Charles Greville, whose plan it was - to attract the Quakers, died.
0:06:10 > 0:06:13- No other industry - came to fill the gap.
0:06:13 > 0:06:18- Milford Haven had to wait - until the late Victorian era...
0:06:18 > 0:06:22- ..to enjoy another period - of industrial prosperity.
0:06:25 > 0:06:29- So while you're sipping - your next Starbucks coffee...
0:06:29 > 0:06:32- ..spare a thought - for the other brand.
0:06:32 > 0:06:36- The Starbuck family - from Nantucket and Milford Haven!
0:07:15 > 0:07:18- Wildlife behaves differently - in a nature reserve...
0:07:19 > 0:07:23- ..maybe because man - doesn't pose a threat.
0:07:24 > 0:07:28- Skomer is home - to over 300,000 birds...
0:07:28 > 0:07:32- ..including my favourite bird - in the whole world.
0:07:32 > 0:07:36- Skomer is an old Scandinavian name - meaning cleft island.
0:07:37 > 0:07:41- From afar, the island looks - as if it has been split in two.
0:07:43 > 0:07:48- I was 14 years old when I first - came to Skomer to study birds.
0:07:49 > 0:07:52- Something happened then - that has stayed with me.
0:07:52 > 0:07:56- It was the first time I fell in love - with the idea of islands.
0:07:59 > 0:08:03- There is something very strange - about islands.
0:08:03 > 0:08:07- Here, I'm a prisoner, - surrounded by the sea...
0:08:07 > 0:08:10- ..yet I feel completely free.
0:08:12 > 0:08:16- Over time, people have come here - in search of various things.
0:08:16 > 0:08:21- The Vikings searched for bounty - along the Pembrokeshire coastline.
0:08:21 > 0:08:25- Rabbits were farmed here - in Norman times and later.
0:08:25 > 0:08:29- Nowadays, people come here - to observe wildlife.
0:08:29 > 0:08:30- It's all around.
0:08:44 > 0:08:48- Although there are many species - of birds on Skomer...
0:08:48 > 0:08:51- ..people throng here - to see the puffin.
0:08:52 > 0:08:54- There is something - very special about it.
0:08:55 > 0:09:00- It's like a seaside clown - with its mischievous and sad eyes.
0:09:00 > 0:09:05- Then there's the triangular beak, - which is fantastic...
0:09:05 > 0:09:08- ..for burrowing - and attracting a mate...
0:09:09 > 0:09:11- ..but mostly for catching fish.
0:09:26 > 0:09:31- Rabbits and puffins have left - their mark on the landscape.
0:09:31 > 0:09:36- One particular type of bird - has taken full advantage of this.
0:09:36 > 0:09:40- Manx shearwaters nest - in old rabbit burrows.
0:09:40 > 0:09:43- In order to see this bird...
0:09:44 > 0:09:47- ..we have to wait until nightfall.
0:09:53 > 0:09:55- LOUD SQUAWKING
0:10:02 > 0:10:07- Manx shearwaters return to shore - around midnight.
0:10:13 > 0:10:15- They return to the island to rest...
0:10:16 > 0:10:19- ..and to feed their mate - in the underground nest.
0:10:22 > 0:10:25- But it wouldn't be safe - to return by moonlight...
0:10:26 > 0:10:29- ..because seagulls - wait outside the hole...
0:10:29 > 0:10:32- ..ready to pounce and ravage them.
0:10:44 > 0:10:48- When the Vikings landed - on the Isle of Man...
0:10:48 > 0:10:50- ..this is the noise they heard.
0:10:51 > 0:10:53- LOUD SQUAWKING
0:10:55 > 0:10:59- They thought it was the cry - of dead sailors.
0:10:59 > 0:11:03- But it's the noise - of the colony...
0:11:04 > 0:11:07- ..saying, - "Come in from the open sea.
0:11:07 > 0:11:11- "There are plenty of us here, - so it's safe."
0:11:16 > 0:11:21- The birds on Skomer - are happy to fly to Ireland...
0:11:21 > 0:11:23- ..to forage for food every day.
0:11:23 > 0:11:26- As summertime ends...
0:11:26 > 0:11:31- ..they migrate across the South - Atlantic to Argentina and Brazil.
0:11:31 > 0:11:33- They are real pilgrims.
0:11:33 > 0:11:36- This isn't their natural habitat.
0:11:36 > 0:11:39- They are seabirds - of the great ocean.
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0:12:00 > 0:12:04- Our journey - along the coastal path continues.
0:12:04 > 0:12:08- Elinor Gwynn - visits the Marloes Peninsula.
0:12:13 > 0:12:17- Visitors tend to hurry - across the Marloes Peninsula...
0:12:17 > 0:12:20- ..to catch a boat across to Skomer.
0:12:21 > 0:12:24- But it's a fascinating peninsula.
0:12:24 > 0:12:27- If you have time - before catching the boat...
0:12:27 > 0:12:30- ..the Deer Park is worth a visit.
0:12:30 > 0:12:34- It's unlikely - that deer have ever lived here...
0:12:34 > 0:12:37- ..but the stone wall - that runs along the headland...
0:12:38 > 0:12:40- ..was built - by Lord Kensington in 1847.
0:12:41 > 0:12:45- But for 20 years, ponies, sheep - and cattle have grazed here...
0:12:45 > 0:12:48- ..as part of a project - to restore coastal habitats.
0:12:58 > 0:13:03- It's been years since I was - last here, and it's changed a lot.
0:13:03 > 0:13:08- My first job after college was with - the National Trust in Pembrokeshire.
0:13:08 > 0:13:13- My main task was to restore habitats - along the coastline.
0:13:13 > 0:13:17- This was one of the first places - I was assigned to.
0:13:17 > 0:13:22- The middle of the plateau - was choked by brambles, ferns...
0:13:22 > 0:13:24- ..and thick vegetation.
0:13:24 > 0:13:29- We set about cutting down - the dense overgrowth...
0:13:29 > 0:13:33- ..with a small tractor - and chains swirling about behind it.
0:13:33 > 0:13:37- I came back year after year - to check the plateau...
0:13:37 > 0:13:40- ..and it was a success.
0:13:40 > 0:13:44- It's wonderful - to see heather and gorse...
0:13:44 > 0:13:49- ..providing a habitat - for a better diversity of wildlife.
0:13:49 > 0:13:53- The marked difference today - compared with when I left...
0:13:54 > 0:13:58- ..is the carpet of bluebells - on the heathland.
0:14:05 > 0:14:07- Although I left a long time ago...
0:14:07 > 0:14:12- ..it's nice to know - that the work we did has paid off.
0:14:12 > 0:14:17- Tell us about what's been happening - over the past twelve years.
0:14:17 > 0:14:22- The work you began made us realize - how important it was to continue...
0:14:22 > 0:14:24- ..and build on that work.
0:14:24 > 0:14:28- We want to reintroduce - grazing control.
0:14:28 > 0:14:31- Grazing pasture - is incredibly important.
0:14:31 > 0:14:33- Since World War II...
0:14:33 > 0:14:38- ..all the energy, - enthusiasm and resources...
0:14:38 > 0:14:41- ..have been ploughed - into agricultural land.
0:14:42 > 0:14:45- To a large extent, this type of land - has been neglected...
0:14:46 > 0:14:49- ..to the detriment of wildlife.
0:14:49 > 0:14:54- The farming community has lost the - skills required to control the land.
0:14:54 > 0:14:58- It's down to a combination - of financial help...
0:14:58 > 0:15:01- ..practical help with stock...
0:15:01 > 0:15:04- ..and the creation - of a grazing network...
0:15:04 > 0:15:10- ..to enable landowners to keep - suitable stock on the land.
0:15:16 > 0:15:22- Over time, farmers became - more comfortable with the idea.
0:15:22 > 0:15:25- They bought their own stock...
0:15:25 > 0:15:28- ..in order to make it - a sustainable venture.
0:15:33 > 0:15:38- A unique experiment is taking place - on the Marloes Peninsula.
0:15:38 > 0:15:41- It's being carried out - on Trehill Farm.
0:15:43 > 0:15:46- Trehill is a National Trust farm.
0:15:46 > 0:15:49- It was decided - that there was scope here...
0:15:49 > 0:15:53- ..to create a new habitat, - but not quite from scratch.
0:15:54 > 0:15:56- Before the coastal path opened...
0:15:57 > 0:16:01- ..there would have been heathlands - along the cliffs.
0:16:01 > 0:16:05- The ultimate aim - was to recreate old habitats.
0:16:09 > 0:16:13- In order to fulfil - this incredibly ambitious goal...
0:16:13 > 0:16:18- ..various techniques were used - on different parts of the headland.
0:16:20 > 0:16:23- This area has received - the full treatment.
0:16:24 > 0:16:27- It was once just vegetation - with fertile soil.
0:16:28 > 0:16:31- In order to change - the composition of the soil...
0:16:31 > 0:16:35- ..and enable heathland - and coastal grasses to grow...
0:16:35 > 0:16:37- ..the topsoil was removed.
0:16:37 > 0:16:43- Sulphuric waste from the Texaco - oil refinery was dispersed.
0:16:43 > 0:16:48- Bright yellow remnants - can still be found here today.
0:16:48 > 0:16:53- Heather cuttings were taken - from mountains near Treffgarne.
0:16:55 > 0:17:00- Plants such as the sea campion - are beginning to take hold.
0:17:00 > 0:17:04- There are both heathlands - and grasslands...
0:17:04 > 0:17:07- ..on this part of the coastline.
0:17:07 > 0:17:13- This experiment shows how important - it is to show initiative...
0:17:14 > 0:17:18- ..and develop new ideas - to learn from the experience...
0:17:18 > 0:17:23- ..so that we are better placed - to preserve wildlife in future.
0:17:50 > 0:17:55- There are many tales of land - being swallowed by the sea.
0:17:55 > 0:17:58- The most famous is Cantre'r Gwaelod.
0:17:58 > 0:18:02- But it may be an ancient memory - rather than a legend...
0:18:02 > 0:18:06- ..about a time when the tide - created the coastline.
0:18:07 > 0:18:11- Interestingly, - places are still disappearing today.
0:18:46 > 0:18:51- When Gerald of Wales came here - on his travels in 1188...
0:18:52 > 0:18:55- ..he recalled a storm - that had occurred 20 years earlier.
0:18:56 > 0:18:59- The powerful wind covered the land - in a blanket of sand.
0:19:00 > 0:19:04- It also uncovered a primitive forest - underneath the waves.
0:19:05 > 0:19:10- The sea was so ferocious - that fish landed in hedgerows.
0:19:11 > 0:19:14- People were able to catch them - from the branches.
0:19:19 > 0:19:22- You moved here in 1965, Roy.
0:19:23 > 0:19:26- You've seen some changes - in the landscape.
0:19:26 > 0:19:29- Do you think - there will come a time...
0:19:30 > 0:19:34- ..when the village behind us - will disappear?
0:19:34 > 0:19:37- The low-lying land - will be the first to go.
0:19:38 > 0:19:43- The sea has already caused them - a few problems.
0:19:50 > 0:19:55- You wouldn't believe the force - of the sea in the 1989 storm.
0:19:55 > 0:19:59- The sea came up through the river.
0:19:59 > 0:20:02- There used to be a garage there.
0:20:02 > 0:20:08- I saw it being lifted and carried - over the bridge to the other side.
0:20:08 > 0:20:10- It was totally destroyed.
0:20:10 > 0:20:15- Another wave came and crashed - through the cafe's window.
0:20:22 > 0:20:25- As the centuries go by...
0:20:26 > 0:20:30- ..this natural embankment - of gravel and pebbles...
0:20:30 > 0:20:32- ..is gradually disappearing.
0:20:33 > 0:20:38- Thousands and thousands - of pebbles down here...
0:20:39 > 0:20:41- ..protect us from the sea.
0:20:41 > 0:20:43- But they're shifting.
0:20:44 > 0:20:47- When there's a high tide...
0:20:47 > 0:20:50- ..they disappear.
0:20:50 > 0:20:55- They rebuild it, - but it's never the same as it was.
0:20:55 > 0:20:57- It's impossible to do that.
0:20:57 > 0:21:01- The level of the water drops...
0:21:02 > 0:21:04- ..but the stones - are shifting inland.
0:21:06 > 0:21:10- Will we eventually lose the road?
0:21:14 > 0:21:19- You should never, ever, - take the sea for granted.
0:21:19 > 0:21:22- On a sunny day...
0:21:22 > 0:21:26- ..people go swimming - and surfers come here.
0:21:26 > 0:21:29- There could be 50 of them here...
0:21:29 > 0:21:34- ..but in the blink of an eye, - someone can get into difficulties.
0:21:38 > 0:21:41- You can't describe - the force of the sea.
0:21:41 > 0:21:44- It will always win in the end.
0:22:07 > 0:22:13- Far north of here in the Arctic, - the ice caps are melting.
0:22:14 > 0:22:18- Sea levels are rising - and swallowing land.
0:22:18 > 0:22:23- It's happening here gradually - - around a centimetre a year.
0:22:23 > 0:22:27- Ultimately, the sea will claim - around 300 metres of the mainland.
0:22:28 > 0:22:31- The shop, the cafe - and the pub will disappear.
0:22:31 > 0:22:34- A modern take on Cantre'r Gwaelod.
0:22:49 > 0:22:51- Next week, Damian finds artists...
0:22:51 > 0:22:55- ..who have been captivated - and enchanted by the county.
0:22:55 > 0:22:57- Elinor visits St David's Head...
0:22:58 > 0:23:02- ..and I trace the history - of the region's ports.
0:23:31 > 0:23:33- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:23:33 > 0:23:33- .