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0:00:36 > 0:00:41- Pembrokeshire's coastal path - stretches for more than 186 miles.
0:00:41 > 0:00:44- Beginning in Amroth in the south...
0:00:44 > 0:00:47- ..it will guide us - to St Dogmaels in the north.
0:00:49 > 0:00:52- Joining me on my journey - is naturalist Elinor Gwynn...
0:00:53 > 0:00:56- ..and poet and lecturer - Damian Walford Davies.
0:00:56 > 0:01:01- This week, we follow the path - from Solva to Whitesands.
0:01:19 > 0:01:22- In 1942, artist Graham Sutherland...
0:01:22 > 0:01:26- ..described the appeal - of Pembrokeshire for artists...
0:01:27 > 0:01:29- ..especially St David's Head.
0:01:29 > 0:01:31- He wrote the following.
0:01:31 > 0:01:35- "The quality of light - is magical and transformational.
0:01:35 > 0:01:40- "As I stare at the sun's rays - striking a distant slope...
0:01:40 > 0:01:45- "..I feel the tranquillity which - follows an explosion of light.
0:01:45 > 0:01:49- "This is what is experienced - when one looks at the sun...
0:01:49 > 0:01:51- "..and turns away suddenly."
0:01:54 > 0:01:56- Since the 18th century...
0:01:56 > 0:01:59- ..artists from all backgrounds - have been drawn here.
0:01:59 > 0:02:03- Each one responds - to an ancient landscape...
0:02:03 > 0:02:07- ..which is transformed - thousands of times a day...
0:02:07 > 0:02:11- ..by that magical light - caught between land and sea.
0:02:26 > 0:02:29- Linda Norris - settled in Pembrokeshire in 1993.
0:02:29 > 0:02:33- She's an artist - who paints the wind and light.
0:02:33 > 0:02:35- Her artwork is distinctive.
0:02:35 > 0:02:38- They depict a turbulent sea - and a brooding sky...
0:02:39 > 0:02:42- ..that suggest an impending - or passing storm.
0:02:46 > 0:02:49- What attracted you to Pembrokeshire?
0:02:50 > 0:02:54- I came to Pembrokeshire - originally...
0:02:54 > 0:02:58- ..because I'm fond - of the wild landscape...
0:02:58 > 0:03:01- ..the incredible light - and the colours.
0:03:01 > 0:03:07- I draw my inspiration - from the landscape, the weather...
0:03:07 > 0:03:09- ..and the seasons.
0:03:09 > 0:03:12- How do you go about your work?
0:03:12 > 0:03:17- When I first moved - to Pembrokeshire in 1993...
0:03:17 > 0:03:22- ..I worked outdoors - on the landscape itself for years...
0:03:22 > 0:03:25- ..just to get to know the colours...
0:03:25 > 0:03:27- ..the light...
0:03:28 > 0:03:30- ..and the geography.
0:03:30 > 0:03:33- But I now work indoors - in the studio...
0:03:33 > 0:03:36- ..because I'm interested...
0:03:36 > 0:03:39- ..in portraying feelings - rather than details.
0:03:39 > 0:03:43- You're currently experimenting - with paintings...
0:03:43 > 0:03:45- ..from an aerial perspective.
0:03:46 > 0:03:48- What's your reason for this?
0:03:48 > 0:03:51- For me, it's very interesting...
0:03:51 > 0:03:54- ..to get - a very different perspective...
0:03:55 > 0:03:58- ..of the landscape - with which I'm familiar.
0:03:58 > 0:04:02- I've worked for many years - amid the landscape...
0:04:02 > 0:04:06- ..but it's different - looking down on it from above.
0:04:06 > 0:04:08- It has opened up a different world.
0:04:08 > 0:04:09- It has opened up a different world.- - Yes, it has.
0:04:26 > 0:04:30- We're here in Caerfai Bay, - south of St David's.
0:04:30 > 0:04:35- It's an incredible location, - so my question seems odd.
0:04:35 > 0:04:38- What attracts you - to this special place?
0:04:41 > 0:04:45- I love the edge, the boundary - between land that has been tended...
0:04:45 > 0:04:48- ..and that which has eroded.
0:04:49 > 0:04:51- That's part of the appeal.
0:04:51 > 0:04:54- But it's also down - to the time of day.
0:04:54 > 0:04:57- You can look out - first thing in the morning...
0:04:57 > 0:05:01- ..and think you're seeing the shape - of a church lychgate.
0:05:02 > 0:05:04- But later in the day...
0:05:04 > 0:05:07- ..it looks more like columns.
0:05:07 > 0:05:09- It's very inspiring...
0:05:10 > 0:05:13- ..as is the land - during those precious moments...
0:05:13 > 0:05:17- ..when the sun - and the clouds move across it.
0:05:17 > 0:05:20- You become very aware - of the time of day.
0:05:21 > 0:05:24- In order to capture - those precious moments...
0:05:24 > 0:05:26- ..what do you do?
0:05:27 > 0:05:29- Do you sketch?
0:05:29 > 0:05:33- I draw a few sketches, but I tend - to stick to the same routine.
0:05:33 > 0:05:37- I usually come out on my own - and spend the entire day here.
0:05:38 > 0:05:41- I'll take this with me. - This is my sketchbook.
0:05:41 > 0:05:45- It allows me - to collect so much information.
0:05:46 > 0:05:50- Much more than if I were - to sit in one spot all day.
0:05:51 > 0:05:57- The camera can record - any sudden changes in the landscape.
0:05:57 > 0:06:00- I'll then go back to the studio...
0:06:00 > 0:06:07- ..and work from maybe three, four - or five photographs that I've taken.
0:06:07 > 0:06:13- I make an effort to make sure - the colours are very transparent.
0:06:13 > 0:06:16- I stick to just three colours.
0:06:16 > 0:06:20- I layer pure colours - on top of each other.
0:06:21 > 0:06:26- It gives a similar effect - to light streaming through glass.
0:06:30 > 0:06:33- What attracts you - to this geographical edge?
0:06:34 > 0:06:36- Is it out of genuine concern?
0:06:36 > 0:06:39- It's definitely a concern of mine...
0:06:39 > 0:06:42- ..because it's happening - on a gradual scale.
0:06:42 > 0:06:47- We should be aware of the fact - that our land is disappearing.
0:06:47 > 0:06:53- A distant relative of mine - remembers sheep grazing...
0:06:53 > 0:06:56- ..on a section of this coastline.
0:06:56 > 0:07:00- That land - is no longer accessible on foot.
0:07:00 > 0:07:03- It has been separated - from the mainland.
0:07:04 > 0:07:09- The path itself - is also causing erosion.
0:07:09 > 0:07:12- It's becoming wider and wider.
0:07:13 > 0:07:16- When I used to come here - years ago...
0:07:17 > 0:07:21- ..the path was narrow - and neatly kept.
0:07:21 > 0:07:24- But it's now becoming - more like the M4.
0:08:12 > 0:08:17- Much has been written - about the history of St David...
0:08:17 > 0:08:21- ..but little is known about Non, - our patron saint's mother.
0:08:23 > 0:08:25- Who was this woman?
0:08:25 > 0:08:29- She was known by different names - - Non, Nonnita and Nonna.
0:08:30 > 0:08:35- She belonged to a noble family - with strong links to Ireland.
0:08:35 > 0:08:39- She was a nun at Ty Gwyn, - a few miles along the coast.
0:08:39 > 0:08:43- Legend has it that she was raped - by Sanctus, King of Ceredigion...
0:08:44 > 0:08:48- ..and that she came to this field - when it was time to give birth.
0:08:51 > 0:08:54- It was a wild and stormy day.
0:08:54 > 0:08:57- But in the field - in which David was born...
0:08:57 > 0:09:01- ..it was a summer's day, - with sunshine and blue skies.
0:09:03 > 0:09:08- A small chapel was erected - in the spot where David was born.
0:09:09 > 0:09:13- It became an important place - for pilgrims heading to St David's.
0:09:14 > 0:09:18- During the Middle Ages, - two pilgrimages to St David's...
0:09:19 > 0:09:22- ..were equivalent - to one pilgrimage to Rome.
0:09:22 > 0:09:27- The pilgrims' generous donations - filled the cathedral's coffers.
0:09:40 > 0:09:43- There are many stories about Non.
0:09:43 > 0:09:48- According to legend, this well - appeared the second David was born.
0:09:48 > 0:09:52- Another legend claims - it was her reason for coming here.
0:09:53 > 0:09:58- Women believed that the water - would ease the pain of childbirth.
0:10:01 > 0:10:04- Over the years, - the water has been used...
0:10:04 > 0:10:07- ..to treat rheumatism - and eye diseases.
0:10:07 > 0:10:11- People still come here - to throw money into the well.
0:10:18 > 0:10:22- The nearby chapel - isn't all that old.
0:10:22 > 0:10:27- It was built in 1938 and dedicated - to both St Mary and St Non.
0:10:27 > 0:10:31- How many facts - do we know about her?
0:10:31 > 0:10:37- Written records began - 500 years after her lifetime.
0:10:37 > 0:10:41- It's difficult to say - who this historical figure was.
0:10:41 > 0:10:45- People have always wondered - if she was a real woman...
0:10:45 > 0:10:47- ..who lived in this area.
0:10:48 > 0:10:52- It's impossible to say - due to the lack of early sources.
0:10:52 > 0:10:55- But what's interesting for me...
0:10:55 > 0:11:00- ..is that Welsh people in the Middle - Ages regarded her as a real person.
0:11:00 > 0:11:05- A delightful 15th century poem - by Lewys Glyn Cothi...
0:11:05 > 0:11:09- ..refers to Edudful, - daughter of Cadwgan...
0:11:10 > 0:11:14- ..coming here on a pilgrimage - and bathing in the well's water.
0:11:14 > 0:11:17- "On Sunday, Edudful comes
0:11:17 > 0:11:19- "To pray sincerely to God
0:11:19 > 0:11:24- "She visits Non's Church - and bathes her head in the well
0:11:24 > 0:11:26- "Raises her hands merrily
0:11:26 > 0:11:28- "Worships the holy image."
0:11:30 > 0:11:33- Apart from this chapel and well...
0:11:33 > 0:11:38- ..at least two Welsh churches - have been named after her.
0:11:38 > 0:11:41- But her grave is in Brittany.
0:11:41 > 0:11:47- Yes, but the grave in Brittany - dates to the 15th century.
0:11:47 > 0:11:50- Non died some 600 years earlier.
0:11:50 > 0:11:54- When the legend was passed on - from Wales to Brittany...
0:11:54 > 0:11:57- ..Non became perceived - as a native of Brittany.
0:11:57 > 0:12:01- They claim she felt a strong sense - of guilt after she was raped...
0:12:02 > 0:12:04- ..so she fled to Brittany.
0:12:04 > 0:12:07- There's a beautiful statue of her...
0:12:07 > 0:12:12- ..wearing a nun's headdress, - lying gracefully on top of the tomb.
0:12:15 > 0:12:17- All these versions of her story...
0:12:18 > 0:12:23- ..along with various artefacts - and churches named in her honour...
0:12:23 > 0:12:26- ..suggest that Non - was an important figure.
0:12:27 > 0:12:33- She was important, in the sense - that she represented a holy figure.
0:12:33 > 0:12:39- Medieval Christians - truly believed she had powers.
0:12:40 > 0:12:42- It was easier to devote prayers...
0:12:42 > 0:12:45- ..to a Welsh woman - with local links...
0:12:46 > 0:12:48- ..rather than praying - directly to heaven.
0:12:49 > 0:12:54- Whatever we think about her - as a historical figure...
0:12:54 > 0:13:00- ..what's important to me is the - wealth of mythology surrounding her.
0:13:00 > 0:13:04- She's part of our heritage - and should be celebrated as such.
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0:13:13 > 0:13:16- On the second leg - of this evening's journey...
0:13:16 > 0:13:19- ..Elinor visits St David's Head.
0:13:24 > 0:13:27- There are many rare plants - along the coastline...
0:13:28 > 0:13:31- ..but few - are lucky enough to see them.
0:13:31 > 0:13:34- But sometimes - it's the commonest plants...
0:13:35 > 0:13:37- ..that create - the biggest impression.
0:13:39 > 0:13:43- Take gorse, for example, - which is ubiquitous along the shore.
0:13:44 > 0:13:48- This spiny evergreen shrub - belongs to the clover family.
0:13:48 > 0:13:52- It's as if it flowers - all year long...
0:13:52 > 0:13:55- ..but it's at its best - in early summer...
0:13:55 > 0:13:59- ..when its coconut scent - fills the air on a sunny day.
0:13:59 > 0:14:02- I'm also fond of it - in late summer...
0:14:02 > 0:14:06- ..when the seed pods - crunch under foot.
0:14:16 > 0:14:20- People assume that gorse - blossoms throughout the year...
0:14:20 > 0:14:22- ..because there are two types.
0:14:22 > 0:14:26- Both types blossom - at different times of the year.
0:14:26 > 0:14:29- The first Welsh reference - to gorse...
0:14:29 > 0:14:33- ..is in the 12th century - Black Book Of St David's.
0:14:33 > 0:14:38- The document probably referred - to this, our native western gorse.
0:14:39 > 0:14:41- It grows near to the ground...
0:14:41 > 0:14:44- ..and forms wave-like patterns - amid the heather.
0:14:45 > 0:14:50- Western gorse - flowers in July and August.
0:14:50 > 0:14:55- The other type of gorse - found in Wales is French gorse.
0:14:55 > 0:14:58- It was introduced more recently...
0:14:59 > 0:15:01- ..and flowers earlier in the year.
0:15:01 > 0:15:06- Between these two species, it seems - that gorse is always in bloom.
0:15:06 > 0:15:09- Gorse has been useful - through the ages.
0:15:09 > 0:15:14- It has been used - for various purposes.
0:15:15 > 0:15:18- The flowers - have been used to dye wool.
0:15:18 > 0:15:22- Gorse's main purpose was to provide - sustenance for animals.
0:15:35 > 0:15:40- Some unusual plants can be found - growing among the gorse.
0:15:40 > 0:15:42- One of them is dodder.
0:15:42 > 0:15:45- It's a remarkable plant.
0:15:45 > 0:15:49- It contains no chlorophyll.
0:15:49 > 0:15:52- It grows parasitically on gorse.
0:15:52 > 0:15:55- It is a very rare plant - and grows sporadically...
0:15:55 > 0:15:57- ..on the south coast of England.
0:15:58 > 0:16:01- This is the only spot I know of - in Wales where it grows.
0:16:01 > 0:16:04- It grows like a spider's web...
0:16:04 > 0:16:07- ..or stretched strings of toffee.
0:16:07 > 0:16:09- In late summer...
0:16:10 > 0:16:14- ..white pompom-like flowers - grow along these red strings.
0:16:33 > 0:16:37- Through the ages, the harbours - have been trading centres...
0:16:37 > 0:16:41- ..and important locations - for events and visitors.
0:16:43 > 0:16:48- One of the most prominent harbours - also happens to be the prettiest.
0:16:48 > 0:16:51- At one time, - Solva was a hive of activity.
0:16:51 > 0:16:55- During the 19th century, - as many as 36 ships docked here...
0:16:56 > 0:17:00- ..transporting goods such as wood, - limestone and butter.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03- This was also the centre - of a sinister industry...
0:17:03 > 0:17:07- ..where ships would be lured - to run aground on its rocks.
0:17:07 > 0:17:11- People would flock here - to steal the cargo...
0:17:11 > 0:17:14- ..and in the process, - steal their souls.
0:17:26 > 0:17:30- They lured ships by hanging - a lantern on a cow's tail.
0:17:30 > 0:17:33- That would swing back and forth.
0:17:33 > 0:17:38- They would also light lamps - in their homes to lure ships.
0:17:38 > 0:17:41- It caused them to run aground - on nearby rocks.
0:17:41 > 0:17:44- Their evil actions bore fruit.
0:17:44 > 0:17:48- At night, they would strip people - of their clothes.
0:17:48 > 0:17:53- They even cut off people's fingers - to steal their rings.
0:17:55 > 0:17:57- Apparently, during that time...
0:17:57 > 0:18:01- ..the people of Solva - had cupboards in their homes....
0:18:02 > 0:18:04- ..in which stolen goods were hidden.
0:18:04 > 0:18:07- Contraband cupboards, if you like.
0:18:07 > 0:18:10- There was even a story - about a local vicar...
0:18:10 > 0:18:13- ..who would pray - in the following way.
0:18:13 > 0:18:16- "Please send a shipwreck our way.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19- "Please let us be first - on the scene."
0:18:37 > 0:18:42- Porthclais is a shining example - of a harbour's importance.
0:18:42 > 0:18:45- It was the nearest harbour - to St David's.
0:18:45 > 0:18:49- All the city's goods - would pass through here.
0:18:52 > 0:18:54- What was Porthclais like - in its heyday?
0:18:55 > 0:18:59- The history of Porthclais...
0:18:59 > 0:19:01- ..dates back to Roman times.
0:19:01 > 0:19:05- But it became a hive of activity - in the Middle Ages...
0:19:05 > 0:19:09- ..because it was the only harbour - close to St David's.
0:19:09 > 0:19:12- The cathedral was being built...
0:19:12 > 0:19:15- ..and wood and stone - were transported by boat.
0:19:15 > 0:19:18- The stone came from Caerfai Bay.
0:19:18 > 0:19:20- It was a very busy period.
0:19:22 > 0:19:25- There are lime kilns - everywhere here.
0:19:25 > 0:19:31- The ships sailed into harbour, - carrying limestone and coal.
0:19:34 > 0:19:37- Each harbour - had at least one lime kiln.
0:19:37 > 0:19:42- Lime was so important for the land - and for construction.
0:19:42 > 0:19:44- The cathedral itself...
0:19:45 > 0:19:48- ..was built using lime - from the kiln in Porthclais.
0:20:00 > 0:20:05- Trading ceased in the harbours - when the railways came.
0:20:06 > 0:20:09- An industry of a different kind - has now taken its place.
0:20:11 > 0:20:14- Where people were once busy...
0:20:14 > 0:20:19- ..transporting, - harvesting and producing...
0:20:19 > 0:20:23- ..they now relax - and enjoy themselves.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27- Unlike Solva...
0:20:27 > 0:20:30- ..where sailors were lured - onto the rocks...
0:20:30 > 0:20:34- ..St Justinian has a long tradition - of rescuing sailors.
0:20:34 > 0:20:38- A lifeboat has operated here - since 1869.
0:20:48 > 0:20:51- We're usually called out...
0:20:51 > 0:20:55- ..around 40-45 times a year.
0:20:55 > 0:20:59- We have to deal - with all kinds of incidents...
0:20:59 > 0:21:02- ..involving swimmers, tankers...
0:21:03 > 0:21:06- ..fishing boats and sailing boats.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11- It is obviously in your blood.
0:21:11 > 0:21:15- Your father and grandfather - were lifeboatmen.
0:21:16 > 0:21:20- My grandfather started in 1936.
0:21:20 > 0:21:25- Some years later, my father - became a lifeboat coxswain.
0:21:25 > 0:21:29- They say it's in the blood...
0:21:29 > 0:21:32- ..so I'm here now too.
0:21:32 > 0:21:36- It's in the blood - but things change.
0:21:36 > 0:21:41- Boats change and you're about - to see a big change here.
0:21:41 > 0:21:43- The station is moving.
0:21:44 > 0:21:48- Yes, we hope to have a new boat - in three or four years' time.
0:21:49 > 0:21:55- We'll need a new station - to house a bigger boat.
0:21:55 > 0:22:00- The current station - is over 100 years old.
0:22:00 > 0:22:02- Things move on.
0:22:02 > 0:22:06- We have to move with the times.
0:22:09 > 0:22:12- On a sunny day, - it's hard to imagine...
0:22:13 > 0:22:15- ..the ferocity of the waves.
0:22:16 > 0:22:18- St Justinian is very busy.
0:22:18 > 0:22:22- All kinds of vessels - sail along the shore.
0:22:23 > 0:22:26- Passengers are ferried - from here to Ramsey Island...
0:22:27 > 0:22:29- ..on regular day trips.
0:22:30 > 0:22:33- The Pembrokeshire coast - is awash with small harbours.
0:22:34 > 0:22:37- Each one looks like - a perfect picture postcard.
0:22:38 > 0:22:39- Each one has its own story.
0:22:40 > 0:22:42- Places for smugglers to hide.
0:22:42 > 0:22:45- Places to import and export - all kinds of cargo.
0:22:46 > 0:22:50- Most importantly, - they offer shelter from storms.
0:22:58 > 0:23:03- Next week, Elinor ventures - into the water at Abereiddy...
0:23:03 > 0:23:07- ..Damian shares his interest - in megalithic tombs...
0:23:08 > 0:23:11- ..and I cover - an unexpected topic - slavery.
0:23:11 > 0:23:15- # Before long, we'll be swimming
0:23:15 > 0:23:19- # Before long, - we'll be swimming in the sea
0:23:20 > 0:23:23- # Have you ever danced?
0:23:23 > 0:23:26- # Have you ever danced - across the sea?
0:23:27 > 0:23:29- # Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh
0:23:30 > 0:23:33- # Oh, oh, oh, oh, - oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh #
0:23:33 > 0:23:35- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:23:35 > 0:23:36- .