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0:00:38 > 0:00:43- Pembrokeshire's coastal path - stretches for more than 186 miles.
0:00:44 > 0:00:46- Beginning in Amroth in the south...
0:00:46 > 0:00:50- ..it will guide me - to St Dogmaels in the north.
0:00:52 > 0:00:55- Joining me - are naturalist Elinor Gwynn...
0:00:56 > 0:00:59- ..and poet and lecturer - Damian Walford Davies.
0:01:01 > 0:01:06- This week, we explore the area - between Abereiddy and Dinas Cross.
0:01:24 > 0:01:26- Pembrokeshire's coastal path...
0:01:27 > 0:01:30- ..leads people to picturesque - and historical places...
0:01:31 > 0:01:33- ..such as this old quarry...
0:01:33 > 0:01:36- ..a few miles north - of St David's.
0:01:39 > 0:01:42- The quarry opened in 1840.
0:01:42 > 0:01:47- It supplied slate, - both locally and further afield.
0:01:47 > 0:01:52- By 1904, the industry was in decline - and the quarry closed down.
0:01:52 > 0:01:56- Local fishermen blasted a channel - through to the sea...
0:01:57 > 0:01:59- ..in order to create a safe haven.
0:01:59 > 0:02:03- Between the grey of the rocks - and the reflected blue of the sky...
0:02:04 > 0:02:08- ..it's no wonder the place - has been nicknamed the Blue Lagoon.
0:02:13 > 0:02:16- The slate started out as fine silt.
0:02:16 > 0:02:20- It slowly sank into a tropical sea - millions of years ago.
0:02:22 > 0:02:26- But Abereiddy slate - was of poor quality.
0:02:26 > 0:02:31- Abereiddy slate used for roof tiles - only lasted 40 years.
0:02:31 > 0:02:35- Caernarfonshire slate - lasted for more than 100 years.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40- However, the slate was still used - locally and was also exported...
0:02:40 > 0:02:44- ..to the south-west of England - and to cities like Bristol.
0:02:51 > 0:02:53- These seven cottages...
0:02:54 > 0:02:58- ..were built by quarry owners - for the quarrymen in 1840.
0:02:58 > 0:03:02- They were simple, - two-roomed cottages.
0:03:02 > 0:03:08- According to the 1851 census, - 16 people lived here...
0:03:08 > 0:03:10- ..mainly men in their 20s and 30s.
0:03:11 > 0:03:15- Interestingly, most of them - came from North Wales.
0:03:16 > 0:03:20- This row of cottages - was referred to as The Street.
0:03:20 > 0:03:24- But during a prosperous period - in the quarry's history...
0:03:24 > 0:03:27- ..the street was known - as Little Brighton...
0:03:28 > 0:03:31- ..which was - a much more impressive name.
0:03:32 > 0:03:35- But The Street's history - came to an end in 1938...
0:03:35 > 0:03:39- ..when a torrential storm - tore through the village.
0:03:40 > 0:03:42- It flooded this entire street.
0:03:42 > 0:03:47- Around the same time, the village - suffered an outbreak of typhoid.
0:03:50 > 0:03:54- Abereiddy has seen a lot of comings - and goings over the years...
0:03:54 > 0:03:57- ..as a direct result of industry.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00- But the place - is still popular with tourists...
0:04:01 > 0:04:05- ..who walk along the many paths - of this wonderful coastline.
0:04:05 > 0:04:07- Whoaaaa!
0:04:09 > 0:04:12- As a National Park warden...
0:04:12 > 0:04:16- ..have you noticed increased use - of the path over the years?
0:04:16 > 0:04:21- Yes, it has been used much more - over the past 10-15 years...
0:04:21 > 0:04:24- ..with people enjoying the open air.
0:04:25 > 0:04:28- We've also noticed - an increase in outdoor pursuits.
0:04:29 > 0:04:33- Do these new activities - have a damaging effect?
0:04:33 > 0:04:37- Some of these activities - can pose an adverse risk...
0:04:37 > 0:04:41- ..but we work closely - with outdoor pursuits companies...
0:04:41 > 0:04:46- ..in partnership with the National - Trust and the Countryside Council.
0:04:46 > 0:04:50- We regularly hold - Outdoor Charter Group meetings...
0:04:51 > 0:04:54- ..to discuss pursuits and sites.
0:04:54 > 0:04:59- What sort of numbers do pursuits - such as coasteering attract?
0:04:59 > 0:05:03- Interest in coasteering - has skyrocketed.
0:05:03 > 0:05:08- At one time, there were 200 people - here on any given day.
0:05:08 > 0:05:13- Because of that, a licence system - has since been introduced.
0:05:13 > 0:05:15- Now the companies book a slot...
0:05:16 > 0:05:18- ..so that we can cap the numbers...
0:05:18 > 0:05:20- ..on a given day.
0:05:20 > 0:05:24- In terms of increased footfall - on the path...
0:05:25 > 0:05:27- ..are there signs of erosion?
0:05:27 > 0:05:29- Yes, there is some erosion...
0:05:30 > 0:05:35- ..due to the high increase - in visitor numbers and the weather.
0:05:40 > 0:05:42- We assess the path once a year.
0:05:42 > 0:05:48- One person walks the path to compare - the erosion in different places.
0:05:48 > 0:05:53- We assess the worst affected areas - so that they can be addressed...
0:05:54 > 0:05:55- ..and resources put in place.
0:05:56 > 0:05:59- I like the sound - of walking the path once a year!
0:05:59 > 0:06:01- Sadly, that's not down to me.
0:06:01 > 0:06:05- If you're looking for someone, - I'd like to volunteer.
0:06:05 > 0:06:07- OK, I'll let them know!
0:06:29 > 0:06:33- Cromlechs and standing stones - are features of the landscape...
0:06:34 > 0:06:38- ..signifying the mystery of birth, - marriage and death...
0:06:38 > 0:06:42- ..of the coast's old inhabitants - from 5,000 years ago.
0:06:50 > 0:06:54- I've always been fascinated - by cromlechs and standing stones.
0:06:54 > 0:06:57- Friends don't understand - my obsession.
0:06:57 > 0:07:00- Why am I so fond of them?
0:07:00 > 0:07:04- Because each has its own - unique character and presence.
0:07:05 > 0:07:09- Some are like clumsy dinosaurs - clambering out of the sea.
0:07:09 > 0:07:12- Others are more elegant - and dignified.
0:07:12 > 0:07:16- there are those - that have deteriorated over time.
0:07:25 > 0:07:28- Carreg Samson near Abercastle...
0:07:28 > 0:07:32- ..on the coastal path - is one of the dinosaurs.
0:07:32 > 0:07:37- The deceased's ashes would be - scattered in this burial chamber.
0:07:40 > 0:07:43- Notice the enormous capstone.
0:07:43 > 0:07:46- Originally, - it would have been hidden...
0:07:47 > 0:07:49- ..covered by a mound - of earth and stones.
0:07:49 > 0:07:52- The site is extremely significant.
0:07:54 > 0:07:59- A cromlech was located - to mark a tribe's territory.
0:08:04 > 0:08:08- How did Neolithic engineers - lift this capstone?
0:08:08 > 0:08:10- Even now, no-one is sure.
0:08:10 > 0:08:14- Local legend has it that a saint - called Samson erected it.
0:08:14 > 0:08:17- He broke his little finger - in the process.
0:08:17 > 0:08:20- It was placed - underneath this huge stone.
0:08:20 > 0:08:25- Carreg Samson is known locally - as the Grave Of Samson's Finger.
0:08:25 > 0:08:27- It was quite a little finger!
0:08:38 > 0:08:43- Cromlechs aren't the only stones - visible in Pembrokeshire.
0:08:43 > 0:08:47- They share the land with cousins - who are 2,000 years younger.
0:08:49 > 0:08:51- The standing stones.
0:08:54 > 0:08:58- At 2.7 metres high, Rhos-y-Clegyrn - standing stone is quite a sight...
0:08:59 > 0:09:02- ..and even more so - with a covering of lichen.
0:09:02 > 0:09:06- It's believed there were - two stones here at one time...
0:09:06 > 0:09:10- ..with a pavement - of circular stones between them.
0:09:11 > 0:09:15- Charred human remains were found - beneath the supposed pavement.
0:09:15 > 0:09:18- Whatever its architectural design...
0:09:18 > 0:09:22- ..it's obvious that Rhos-y-Clegyrn - was an auspicious ceremonial site.
0:09:30 > 0:09:33- It's easy to get a feel - for the past here.
0:09:33 > 0:09:37- Imagine the scene - - flames burning, chanting...
0:09:37 > 0:09:41- ..ceremonies conducted - within a stone circle.
0:09:41 > 0:09:44- And a final farewell - to a member of the tribe.
0:10:12 > 0:10:17- This is St Gwyndaf's Church - in Llanwnda on Strumble Head.
0:10:17 > 0:10:20- When the church - was restored in 1881...
0:10:20 > 0:10:24- ..six stones from the ninth century - were discovered.
0:10:24 > 0:10:28- Five of them - were in the church's exterior wall.
0:10:29 > 0:10:33- Four of them were decorated - with simple crosses.
0:10:38 > 0:10:41- Each of these stones - acts like a small window...
0:10:41 > 0:10:45- ..on the rich history of this site.
0:11:02 > 0:11:05- The fifth stone - may be the most interesting.
0:11:05 > 0:11:08- It was carved - for the monks who lived here.
0:11:09 > 0:11:11- A face is visible here.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14- Here are the eyes, - the nose and mouth.
0:11:15 > 0:11:19- Four lines for the hair, - falling over the cheeks and ears.
0:11:20 > 0:11:23- At the top - is the Cross of St Andrew.
0:11:23 > 0:11:26- The question is, whose face is it?
0:11:26 > 0:11:28- A woman's face? A monk's face?
0:11:28 > 0:11:30- Or the face of Christ?
0:11:30 > 0:11:32- Who knows?
0:11:48 > 0:11:53- As well as outside, this church - also has ancient stones inside.
0:11:54 > 0:11:56- There's one on each window sill.
0:11:57 > 0:12:01- The old monk still watches - over his flock from the beam.
0:12:07 > 0:12:11- To me, these stones - aren't cold and morbid slabs.
0:12:12 > 0:12:17- They represent living presences - that are rooted, unlike ourselves...
0:12:17 > 0:12:19- ..in their homeland.
0:12:19 > 0:12:22- Despite every effort - by scientists...
0:12:23 > 0:12:28- ..historians and writers - to demystify them...
0:12:28 > 0:12:30- ..the mysticism remains.
0:12:31 > 0:12:34- So I say, long live - the language of the stones!
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0:12:46 > 0:12:50- As our journey - along the coastal path continues...
0:12:50 > 0:12:54- ..Elinor explores the architecture - of the county's cottages.
0:13:12 > 0:13:17- There's a diversity of buildings - on the Pembrokeshire coast.
0:13:17 > 0:13:20- Some are renowned, - such as Pembroke Castle...
0:13:21 > 0:13:25- ..St David's Cathedral - and the Bishop's Palace.
0:13:28 > 0:13:32- But the buildings - that capture the county's spirit...
0:13:32 > 0:13:35- ..are simpler structures...
0:13:35 > 0:13:40- ..such as lime kilns, mills, - farmhouses and cottages.
0:13:41 > 0:13:44- This example sits comfortably - in its surroundings.
0:13:45 > 0:13:49- It's perfectly situated - in this part of north Pembrokeshire.
0:14:04 > 0:14:09- Building and restoring houses - sympathetically is a challenge...
0:14:09 > 0:14:13- ..and can be a contentious issue - within a national park.
0:14:13 > 0:14:16- Edward and Hedydd - are a couple who have succeeded.
0:14:17 > 0:14:18- Edward is a builder...
0:14:19 > 0:14:23- ..and Hedydd is a teacher - with an interest in local history.
0:14:23 > 0:14:26- This house - looks as if it's been here...
0:14:26 > 0:14:29- ..in this landscape for centuries.
0:14:29 > 0:14:34- But it didn't look like this at all - when you bought the place.
0:14:34 > 0:14:38- It's an old building, - maybe 200 years old...
0:14:38 > 0:14:43- ..but it was vacant - before we bought it.
0:14:43 > 0:14:49- Someone may have lived here once, - but they were outhouses by then.
0:14:49 > 0:14:53- I know you explored - traditional houses in the area...
0:14:53 > 0:14:56- ..to decide on features you liked.
0:14:56 > 0:15:02- Which features did you decide - to incorporate into your home?
0:15:03 > 0:15:07- It was a ruin when we started...
0:15:07 > 0:15:10- ..but, crucially, - the stone was here.
0:15:10 > 0:15:15- As a builder, I was aware - that it could have been a problem...
0:15:15 > 0:15:19- ..to find stones - to match the existing stonework.
0:15:19 > 0:15:22- We wanted the correct windows too.
0:15:23 > 0:15:25- We went to see cottages - in Abereiddy.
0:15:25 > 0:15:30- The windows had to suit the style - of the cottage and the landscape.
0:15:31 > 0:15:35- We wanted to make sure - we didn't make a mistake.
0:15:35 > 0:15:39- I like the way - you've kept the buildings...
0:15:39 > 0:15:42- ..at a low level - so that they blend in.
0:15:42 > 0:15:47- We didn't want a cottage of this - length because they didn't exist.
0:15:48 > 0:15:52- So we decided to keep one part - that looked like a cottage...
0:15:52 > 0:15:57- ..and the other part - to look like outhouses...
0:15:57 > 0:15:59- ..that were still used as such.
0:16:10 > 0:16:13- I'm interested - in the cement roofs...
0:16:14 > 0:16:17- ..that can be seen - throughout this region.
0:16:17 > 0:16:21- They're so typical - of north Pembrokeshire.
0:16:22 > 0:16:26- But why aren't they found - elsewhere in Wales?
0:16:26 > 0:16:29- They had good quality slate - in North Wales.
0:16:30 > 0:16:33- Here in Pembrokeshire...
0:16:34 > 0:16:36- ..the slate became brittle...
0:16:37 > 0:16:40- ..and porous after a few years...
0:16:40 > 0:16:42- ..so roofs would leak.
0:16:42 > 0:16:45- That's when cement roofs - were introduced.
0:16:45 > 0:16:48- What kind of substances - are used in the cement?
0:16:49 > 0:16:51- We use sand, cement...
0:16:52 > 0:16:54- ..and lime.
0:16:54 > 0:16:59- We also use more modern materials - to help it stick to the slate.
0:16:59 > 0:17:04- In old houses, - each time the roof was grouted...
0:17:04 > 0:17:06- ..more weight was added to it.
0:17:07 > 0:17:11- Around 1.5 tonnes of sand was needed - to build a roof of this size.
0:17:11 > 0:17:16- Over the years, - the roofs started to bow.
0:17:16 > 0:17:20- The timber trusses in old houses - weren't strong enough...
0:17:20 > 0:17:22- ..so roofs began to dip.
0:17:23 > 0:17:29- After all the hard work and effort, - are you happy with the result?
0:17:29 > 0:17:32- Is it exactly - as you imagined it to be?
0:17:32 > 0:17:35- I'm quite happy with it. - I don't want to leave the place.
0:17:36 > 0:17:40- If she's happy, - that's good enough for me.
0:18:03 > 0:18:07- Thinking of Pembrokeshire's - wonderful landscape...
0:18:07 > 0:18:10- ..its people - and its towns and villages...
0:18:10 > 0:18:14- ..it's hard to believe that if you - scraped beneath the surface...
0:18:14 > 0:18:18- ..you'd find something - completely unexpected.
0:18:18 > 0:18:19- Slavery.
0:18:30 > 0:18:32- The Vikings - gave this place its name.
0:18:33 > 0:18:36- Fishguard literally means - fish-catching enclosure.
0:18:37 > 0:18:39- They were very industrious here.
0:18:39 > 0:18:45- They invaded and attacked viciously - as they searched for treasure.
0:18:45 > 0:18:48- They kidnapped people - and used them as slaves.
0:18:55 > 0:18:58- In the nearby village - of Little Newcastle...
0:18:58 > 0:19:01- ..lived a boy - named Bartholomew Roberts.
0:19:01 > 0:19:06- Aged ten, he went to sea - aboard a ship transporting slaves.
0:19:08 > 0:19:11- In time, he became captain - of his own ship.
0:19:11 > 0:19:13- A pirate ship.
0:19:13 > 0:19:16- He became known as Black Bart...
0:19:16 > 0:19:20- ..arguably the most successful - and vicious pirate in history.
0:19:20 > 0:19:24- He attacked 200 ships in two years.
0:19:31 > 0:19:34- Many mansions were built - in Pembrokeshire...
0:19:35 > 0:19:38- ..with the money made - from buying and selling slaves...
0:19:39 > 0:19:43- ..and from slave labour - on Caribbean sugar plantations.
0:19:43 > 0:19:47- Some of the county's families - became very wealthy.
0:19:49 > 0:19:52- Some of Pembrokeshire's - colourful characters...
0:19:53 > 0:19:55- ..have been involved - in the slave trade.
0:19:56 > 0:19:58- Among them was Black Bart, no less.
0:19:58 > 0:20:04- Yes, one of his first jobs - was on a ship transporting slaves.
0:20:05 > 0:20:09- Ships used to transport slaves - were horrendous...
0:20:10 > 0:20:13- ..not only for the slaves - but also for the crew.
0:20:13 > 0:20:18- You could smell a slave ship - from miles away at sea.
0:20:18 > 0:20:20- In Black Bart's case...
0:20:21 > 0:20:26- ..his ship was attacked - and he was taken hostage.
0:20:26 > 0:20:29- He then joined his captors - as a pirate.
0:20:29 > 0:20:34- In a strange way, - his history is associated...
0:20:34 > 0:20:37- ..with the burgeoning slave trade.
0:20:37 > 0:20:40- Following Black Bart's death - in 1722...
0:20:41 > 0:20:45- ..the golden age of the pirates - came to an end.
0:20:45 > 0:20:48- The pirates, of course, - attacked the slave ships.
0:20:49 > 0:20:52- But once the pirates - had been overpowered...
0:20:53 > 0:20:55- ..the slave trade grew unhindered.
0:20:56 > 0:20:59- The trade grew significantly - in the 18th century.
0:21:01 > 0:21:05- Wales's economy - was linked to the slave trade.
0:21:05 > 0:21:08- Mansions were built - and wealth was generated...
0:21:09 > 0:21:11- ..as a result of slavery.
0:21:11 > 0:21:14- Yes, landowners in Pembrokeshire...
0:21:14 > 0:21:17- ..owned land and slaves - in the Caribbean.
0:21:17 > 0:21:22- The Caribbean was incredibly - important to the slave trade.
0:21:23 > 0:21:27- The Caribbean was more important - to Britain's economy...
0:21:27 > 0:21:31- ..than the North American mainland - in that period.
0:21:32 > 0:21:37- You could argue that much of Wales's - industrial development...
0:21:37 > 0:21:41- ..in the late 18th century - and early 19th century...
0:21:42 > 0:21:44- ..was funded by money from slavery.
0:21:48 > 0:21:52- There is a special example - of slavery in this house.
0:21:53 > 0:21:56- Yes, it involves a slave boy - named Cesar Picton.
0:21:56 > 0:22:00- He was a gift to John Philipps...
0:22:00 > 0:22:03- ..who was one - of the estate's owners.
0:22:04 > 0:22:08- This house was given to Cesar - when he was five or six years old...
0:22:08 > 0:22:10- ..along with a parakeet.
0:22:13 > 0:22:17- It was fashionable at the time...
0:22:17 > 0:22:21- ..to have young black boys - as travelling companions.
0:22:21 > 0:22:26- But in Cesar's case, - he became part of the family.
0:22:29 > 0:22:33- He became a wealthy man.
0:22:33 > 0:22:38- John Philipps's daughters - left him money in their wills...
0:22:38 > 0:22:41- ..and he became far wealthier...
0:22:42 > 0:22:45- ..than many who were born and bred - in south-east England.
0:22:46 > 0:22:48- But Wales became instrumental...
0:22:49 > 0:22:51- ..in ending this abhorrent trade.
0:22:51 > 0:22:54- But there are still traces - in the large estates...
0:22:55 > 0:22:57- ..of wealth derived from slavery...
0:22:58 > 0:23:01- ..during a horrendous period - in our history.
0:23:07 > 0:23:12- Next week, Damian explores the - derivation of county place names...
0:23:12 > 0:23:15- ..Elinor roams in Ty Canol woods...
0:23:16 > 0:23:20- ..and I get the chance to visit - one of the path's hidden gems...
0:23:20 > 0:23:22- ..the Witch's Cauldron.
0:23:51 > 0:23:53- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:23:53 > 0:23:54- .