Pennod 6

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0:00:39 > 0:00:45- Pembrokeshire's coastal path - stretches for more than 186 miles.

0:00:45 > 0:00:50- It will guide me from Amroth in the - south to St Dogmaels in the north.

0:00:51 > 0:00:55- Joining me on my journey - are naturalist Elinor Gwynn...

0:00:55 > 0:00:59- ..and poet and lecturer - Damian Walford Davies.

0:00:59 > 0:01:02- In the final programme - of the series...

0:01:02 > 0:01:06- ..we'll follow the path - from Newport to St Dogmaels.

0:01:19 > 0:01:23- Countless species of birds - can be seen along the path...

0:01:24 > 0:01:29- ..from seagulls to gannets, - swooping majestically into the sea.

0:01:29 > 0:01:33- One of Pembrokeshire's most loved - seabirds is the puffin...

0:01:33 > 0:01:36- ..the clown of the cliffs.

0:01:36 > 0:01:40- The estuary of the River Nevern - is one of those places...

0:01:40 > 0:01:46- ..where you won't need binoculars - to make out the birds in the mud.

0:01:46 > 0:01:50- I'm here to meet a man - who lives in nearby Newport.

0:01:50 > 0:01:54- He combines two of the things - I love most in the world...

0:01:54 > 0:01:56- ..birds and art.

0:01:58 > 0:02:01- Local artist and sculptor - Wynmor Owen...

0:02:01 > 0:02:06- ..uses old fence posts - to create depictions of wild birds.

0:02:10 > 0:02:14- It's said that when a sculptor - studies a piece of stone or wood...

0:02:15 > 0:02:20- ..he can envisage his sculpture - from just the raw materials.

0:02:20 > 0:02:24- Is that true? When you see a post, - do you know what it's going to be?

0:02:25 > 0:02:27- Yes, it does happen - but not instantly.

0:02:31 > 0:02:34- You notice the grain of the wood.

0:02:34 > 0:02:37- I might saw the top - off an old fence post...

0:02:37 > 0:02:40- ..to get a view of the grain.

0:02:40 > 0:02:45- If I can see it running through - a particular design...

0:02:45 > 0:02:50- ..I'd follow these energy lines - to mimic the bird's motion.

0:02:50 > 0:02:52- That's what I hope to achieve.

0:02:57 > 0:03:02- Wynmor finds his raw materials - in hedges and fields.

0:03:06 > 0:03:10- Thanks to local farmers, - I'm able to acquire old posts.

0:03:11 > 0:03:15- Once I've taken them home, - I study them for a while.

0:03:17 > 0:03:22- Usually, I can see a potential - sculpture emerging in the wood...

0:03:23 > 0:03:26- ..such as a chough, a fulmar - or a seagull in flight.

0:03:26 > 0:03:29- It then comes to life - in front of your eyes.

0:03:30 > 0:03:32- As you turn the wood - and work on it...

0:03:33 > 0:03:35- ..you become part of it.

0:03:35 > 0:03:40- You guide the process along - and work with the wood.

0:03:48 > 0:03:51- You're a native of this area...

0:03:51 > 0:03:56- ..who's aware of the wonders - of your immediate surroundings.

0:03:58 > 0:04:02- I love working outdoors - in such spots as Carn Ingli...

0:04:02 > 0:04:05- ..Pen Y Morfa and up towards Ceibwr.

0:04:05 > 0:04:11- They provide a wealth of inspiration - for my sketches and sculptures.

0:04:12 > 0:04:15- I'm able to capture - the essence of my surroundings.

0:04:21 > 0:04:26- The wonderful chough in its habitat, - the fulmar busy on the cliff.

0:04:27 > 0:04:31- I just want to be part of that - and blend into their world.

0:04:34 > 0:04:38- Notice what they are doing - and not what you want them to do.

0:04:38 > 0:04:42- It's not about how you want - the picture to develop.

0:04:42 > 0:04:46- If you're ready for them, - the pencil does the work.

0:04:46 > 0:04:48- Ideas flood into your mind...

0:04:48 > 0:04:52- ..and you know you're at one - with the bird's spirit.

0:04:52 > 0:04:55- That element - is very important to me.

0:05:23 > 0:05:28- You wouldn't normally associate - Pembrokeshire with forests...

0:05:28 > 0:05:32- ..but you needn't stray - too far from the coastline...

0:05:32 > 0:05:36- ..to find wonderful examples, - such as Ty Canol woods.

0:05:50 > 0:05:55- There has been some kind of woodland - here ever since the last Ice Age.

0:05:55 > 0:05:58- They are mainly oak and hazel trees.

0:05:58 > 0:06:02- Further down the slope, - oak trees grow to a lofty height.

0:06:02 > 0:06:07- On the upper slopes, - where rocks are prominent...

0:06:08 > 0:06:12- ..the oak trees have withered - and wound around the rocks.

0:06:15 > 0:06:20- This became a National Nature - Reserve back in the 1980s.

0:06:20 > 0:06:24- One of the most important features - of its location...

0:06:25 > 0:06:27- ..is the diversity - of moss and lichen.

0:06:27 > 0:06:33- More than 400 types of lichen - have been registered here...

0:06:33 > 0:06:37- ..making it one of the most fertile - sites in Wales, if not Britain.

0:06:44 > 0:06:47- Lichen and moss grow abundantly - in ancient forests...

0:06:48 > 0:06:50- ..where the air is pure and moist.

0:06:50 > 0:06:53- But it's important to the lichen...

0:06:53 > 0:06:56- ..that there is plenty - of penetrating sunlight.

0:06:57 > 0:06:59- In order to witness this...

0:06:59 > 0:07:04- ..you only need compare the trees - in this moist environment...

0:07:04 > 0:07:07- ..where the trees - are covered in moss...

0:07:07 > 0:07:11- ..with the trees - that grow outside the woodland...

0:07:11 > 0:07:16- ..where there is more diversity - of lichen on the bark and branches.

0:07:25 > 0:07:30- Grazing ensures that tree trunks - and large rocks...

0:07:30 > 0:07:32- ..aren't choked by too much growth.

0:07:33 > 0:07:38- The wood has been grazed - by cattle, ponies and sheep.

0:07:38 > 0:07:42- It is still used - for grazing purposes today.

0:07:50 > 0:07:53- In a place as unspoilt as this...

0:07:53 > 0:07:57- ..it's hard to imagine - that any sort of control is needed.

0:07:57 > 0:08:01- But I'm sure plenty goes on - behind the scenes.

0:08:01 > 0:08:03- Yes, you're right.

0:08:03 > 0:08:08- The most important thing - is to allow grazing to continue.

0:08:08 > 0:08:12- But grazing - brings about problems of its own.

0:08:12 > 0:08:16- As you can see in this area...

0:08:16 > 0:08:19- ..the trees are similar - in terms of size and age.

0:08:20 > 0:08:24- Sheep tend to graze on any new - growth that begins to sprout.

0:08:24 > 0:08:27- We've fenced off - a couple of areas...

0:08:27 > 0:08:30- ..to prevent livestock - from going there.

0:08:31 > 0:08:37- This allows the immature trees - to grow to a much bigger size.

0:08:37 > 0:08:40- We then move the fencing - to another area.

0:08:40 > 0:08:44- Once in a while, - we chop down trees...

0:08:44 > 0:08:48- ..especially those near paths, - for reasons of safety.

0:08:48 > 0:08:53- It also allows more daylight - to penetrate the woodland.

0:08:54 > 0:08:57- We very much hope - that any changes we make here...

0:08:58 > 0:09:02- ..won't have an adverse effect - on the existing woodland.

0:09:02 > 0:09:05- There's a special atmosphere here.

0:09:05 > 0:09:07- I'm glad to hear that.

0:09:30 > 0:09:34- The National Park - has long been trying...

0:09:35 > 0:09:39- ..to increase the value of trees - from native woodlands.

0:09:39 > 0:09:41- Tell us what's been going on.

0:09:41 > 0:09:44- This is Cilrhedyn Woodland Centre.

0:09:45 > 0:09:48- This place was established in 1994.

0:09:48 > 0:09:51- It started out as a shed - that could be developed.

0:09:52 > 0:09:54- We're fortunate - that Cwm Gwaun is nearby.

0:09:57 > 0:10:01- The National Park - owns extensive woodland.

0:10:01 > 0:10:04- Yes, we own around 200 hectares.

0:10:05 > 0:10:09- We also control another 50 hectares, - so there's plenty of work to do.

0:10:09 > 0:10:12- What do you produce in this centre?

0:10:12 > 0:10:15- We produce items - for the National Park's own use.

0:10:16 > 0:10:20- That includes items for the path...

0:10:20 > 0:10:25- ..gates, stiles, - steps and bridges.

0:10:25 > 0:10:27- That keeps us busy on the whole.

0:10:27 > 0:10:30- Looking into the shed, - it struck me...

0:10:31 > 0:10:34- ..that bundles - of seemingly worthless wood...

0:10:34 > 0:10:39- ..could be turned into gates - worth over 200 in just a few hours.

0:10:39 > 0:10:43- It's astounding - what they can make from the wood.

0:10:43 > 0:10:47- A craftsman can produce gates...

0:10:47 > 0:10:50- ..that will last - for many years to come.

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0:11:18 > 0:11:18- Subtitles

0:11:18 > 0:11:20- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:11:24 > 0:11:28- As our journey - along the coastal path continues...

0:11:28 > 0:11:32- ..Damian examines - some of the county's place names.

0:11:43 > 0:11:46- Place names are like small stores...

0:11:46 > 0:11:50- ..of cultural, historical - and personal information.

0:11:50 > 0:11:53- They also record our roots - and our legends.

0:11:53 > 0:11:57- On the subject of legends, - I'm heading up there.

0:12:08 > 0:12:11- The name Carn Ingli - conveys strength.

0:12:11 > 0:12:15- Literally translated, - it means rocky mountain.

0:12:15 > 0:12:17- There is something iconic...

0:12:17 > 0:12:21- ..authoritative, supernatural even, - about Carn Ingli.

0:12:23 > 0:12:27- Carn Ingli - can hardly be called a mountain...

0:12:27 > 0:12:30- ..but it's in a prominent spot...

0:12:30 > 0:12:33- ..looking down over Cwm Gwaun - in front of me...

0:12:34 > 0:12:37- ..and Newport behind me.

0:12:41 > 0:12:45- This is a hill fort - from the Iron Age.

0:12:45 > 0:12:49- Archaeologist have discovered - the ruins of huts...

0:12:49 > 0:12:52- ..that were home - to more than 150 people.

0:12:52 > 0:12:55- The place is incredibly noble...

0:12:55 > 0:12:58- ..with strong natural defences - on both sides.

0:13:04 > 0:13:07- What about the meaning - of the name itself?

0:13:07 > 0:13:11- Carn Ingli was mentioned - in a document from 1273.

0:13:11 > 0:13:15- Three centuries later, - it was referred to as Carn Englyn.

0:13:15 > 0:13:18- Englyn in this sense - refers to a giant of that name.

0:13:18 > 0:13:21- But I haven't seen him yet!

0:13:27 > 0:13:31- But the best legends - are always about saints, not giants.

0:13:32 > 0:13:37- The best-known tale about Carn Ingli - involves Saint Brynach.

0:13:37 > 0:13:41- He came up here from Nevern - to commune with the angels.

0:13:42 > 0:13:44- Mons Angelorum in Latin...

0:13:44 > 0:13:48- ..and Carn Ingli in Welsh, - ingli meaning angels.

0:13:48 > 0:13:53- Those who want to commune with - the other world still come here...

0:13:53 > 0:13:57- ..be they Celtic, Christian - or some other persuasion.

0:13:57 > 0:13:59- Many spend the night here.

0:13:59 > 0:14:03- I don't know what they're like - when they come down, mind you.

0:14:17 > 0:14:22- Bayvil is a small hamlet - near Nevern.

0:14:22 > 0:14:26- You'd find a record of this place - dating back to 1273...

0:14:26 > 0:14:31- ..if you were to sift through old - manuscripts in the National Library.

0:14:31 > 0:14:36- But the name Bayvil is neither - Welsh nor English in origin.

0:14:36 > 0:14:40- It actually derives - from the French belle ville...

0:14:41 > 0:14:43- ..which means pretty town.

0:14:43 > 0:14:47- On a day like today, - it's a fitting description.

0:14:57 > 0:15:00- But why did this small hamlet - adopt a French name?

0:15:00 > 0:15:05- Perhaps a Frenchman named it - after a pretty town in Normandy.

0:15:06 > 0:15:09- Maybe he named it - to remind him of home.

0:15:14 > 0:15:17- This is Bayvil's - handsome Georgian church.

0:15:18 > 0:15:23- The original church belonged - to French monks from St Dogmaels.

0:15:23 > 0:15:25- The old parish of Bayvil...

0:15:25 > 0:15:29- ..was under the secular - and religious rule of France.

0:15:51 > 0:15:56- In a document dating back to 1605, - it is referred to as Trellifan.

0:15:57 > 0:15:59- "In English called Toadstown."

0:16:00 > 0:16:05- It is a very stark name - for a toads' farm or town.

0:16:13 > 0:16:16- Place names embody accent, - pronunciation...

0:16:16 > 0:16:21- ..and patois, which all contribute - to the richness of language.

0:16:21 > 0:16:24- Take the archaic Trellifan, - for example.

0:16:24 > 0:16:28- In the local dialect, - llifan is the word for toad.

0:16:31 > 0:16:34- The plural form is lliffannod, - not llyffantod.

0:16:35 > 0:16:37- Another plural form is llyffaint...

0:16:38 > 0:16:41- ..which gives the name - used today, Trellyffaint.

0:16:44 > 0:16:47- How did the place - become known as Trellyffaint?

0:16:47 > 0:16:51- Historian George Owen - associates the place...

0:16:51 > 0:16:55- ..with a character in a story - called Seisyll Esgairhir...

0:16:55 > 0:16:57- ..who was plagued by toads.

0:16:57 > 0:17:02- Hundreds of them were killed, - but it didn't make a difference,

0:17:07 > 0:17:10- Seisyll's friends - put him in a sack...

0:17:10 > 0:17:12- ..and hung him on a lofty branch.

0:17:12 > 0:17:15- Unfortunately, - the toads could climb trees.

0:17:16 > 0:17:18- They went into his sack - and ate him alive...

0:17:19 > 0:17:21- ..leaving only his bones.

0:17:21 > 0:17:25- Being eaten alive by toads. - What a way to go!

0:17:29 > 0:17:31- Carn Ingli - mount of angels.

0:17:32 > 0:17:34- Bayvil - belle ville.

0:17:34 > 0:17:36- And Trellyffaint...

0:17:36 > 0:17:40- ..farm of the toads, - toads that eat human flesh!

0:17:40 > 0:17:43- Literature, history and dialect.

0:17:43 > 0:17:46- These place names - encompass all three.

0:17:46 > 0:17:50- They connect us to the past - and bring us legends...

0:17:50 > 0:17:54- ..so that we may better understand - today and tomorrow.

0:17:59 > 0:18:04- Walking the northern part - of the path is quite a challenge.

0:18:04 > 0:18:07- It's like a fairground ride, - climbing and falling...

0:18:08 > 0:18:11- ..and clinging like a leech - to the rugged cliffs.

0:18:13 > 0:18:17- This area is also - a geological treasure trove.

0:18:17 > 0:18:23- I visited one with Richard Vaughan, - who's a National Park ranger.

0:18:23 > 0:18:26- The Witch's Cauldron was created...

0:18:27 > 0:18:30- ..by the battle - between land and sea.

0:18:31 > 0:18:33- Yes. It was an old cave at one time.

0:18:33 > 0:18:37- Over time, it has been battered - by ferocious waves.

0:18:37 > 0:18:41- The waves are now threatening - to wash away the arch forever.

0:18:41 > 0:18:45- Perhaps, but not today. - Maybe tomorrow.

0:18:52 > 0:18:58- You know all about maintenance work - because you've done it yourself.

0:18:58 > 0:19:02- Yes, my first job - with the National Park...

0:19:02 > 0:19:08- ..was to bring the new bridge - down the slopes behind us.

0:19:08 > 0:19:09- It was hard work!

0:19:09 > 0:19:11- It was hard work!- - How did you do it?

0:19:12 > 0:19:17- We used a wheelbarrow, - a lot of energy and ropes!

0:19:18 > 0:19:21- It was hard work - and required a lot of manpower.

0:19:33 > 0:19:38- Your parents and brother - are farmers in Cwm Gwaun...

0:19:39 > 0:19:42- ..but you decided - to become a ranger.

0:19:42 > 0:19:44- They're happy I stayed in the area.

0:19:45 > 0:19:47- Although I work here full-time...

0:19:48 > 0:19:52- ..I help out on the farm - in the evenings and on weekends.

0:19:52 > 0:19:55- Did you go away to study?

0:19:55 > 0:19:58- I went away for a couple of years...

0:19:58 > 0:20:01- ..but I wanted to come back - to work for the Park.

0:20:01 > 0:20:03- I'm glad I did.

0:20:07 > 0:20:12- You must enjoy showing people - around because ultimately...

0:20:13 > 0:20:16- ..it's a resource for people - as well as a nature reserve.

0:20:17 > 0:20:19- You want people to see it.

0:20:19 > 0:20:23- It would be nice - to keep it to ourselves...

0:20:23 > 0:20:27- ..but we want to show - what we've done here...

0:20:27 > 0:20:32- ..and maintain the path - so that people can enjoy it.

0:20:37 > 0:20:41- It's a special area. - It's a nice place in which to work.

0:20:41 > 0:20:46- The people are nice, but the best - thing is being out in the open air.

0:20:46 > 0:20:48- This is your office.

0:20:48 > 0:20:51- Yes, my office and my desk. - I'm very lucky.

0:21:12 > 0:21:17- In Poppit, there's a plaque - marking the end of the coastal path.

0:21:17 > 0:21:21- But the path - officially ends in St Dogmaels.

0:21:35 > 0:21:38- Our journey ends - here in St Dogmaels.

0:21:38 > 0:21:41- A path isn't just a way - of getting from A to B.

0:21:42 > 0:21:46- It's a way to view a landscape's - rhythm and formation...

0:21:46 > 0:21:48- ..and to observe wildlife.

0:21:48 > 0:21:52- Since being in Pembrokeshire, - I've come to realize...

0:21:52 > 0:21:55- ..that the hands of time - move far slower here.

0:21:56 > 0:22:00- It allows you more time - to appreciate outstanding beauty.

0:22:09 > 0:22:13- # If I were in your company

0:22:15 > 0:22:17- # We'd walk along the shore

0:22:18 > 0:22:21- # While waves crashed on the bay

0:22:23 > 0:22:26- # The howling wind leaves a scar

0:22:28 > 0:22:30- # As it pounds the poor gravel

0:22:31 > 0:22:35- # As it pounds the poor gravel

0:22:44 > 0:22:46- # This is my love

0:22:47 > 0:22:50- # Under the willow tree on the hill

0:22:52 > 0:22:55- # Where the well flows beneath

0:22:56 > 0:22:58- # And my heart is on fire

0:23:01 > 0:23:03- # When I rest with you

0:23:04 > 0:23:09- # When I rest with you

0:23:13 > 0:23:18- # I will run to you

0:23:18 > 0:23:21- # To you #

0:23:30 > 0:23:32- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:32 > 0:23:32- .