0:00:00 > 0:00:04- We doubted the existence - of a quintessentially Welsh house...
0:00:05 > 0:00:07- ..in past series of Y Ty Cymreig.
0:00:08 > 0:00:12- However, we did discover - distinctive, regional variations.
0:00:12 > 0:00:16- In this series, we'll visit - the former 13 Welsh counties...
0:00:16 > 0:00:19- ..to solve the mystery - of the Welsh house.
0:00:20 > 0:00:22- 888
0:00:25 > 0:00:27- 888
0:00:30 > 0:00:32- 888
0:00:35 > 0:00:37- 888
0:00:40 > 0:00:44- Our whistle-stop tour of the - counties starts in Cardiganshire.
0:00:44 > 0:00:48- My guide is Dr Greg Stevenson - and his dog, Minti.
0:00:49 > 0:00:54- In this programme, we visit - a Victorian house in Aberystwyth...
0:00:54 > 0:00:59- ..a farmhouse in Strata Florida - and a mansion near New Quay.
0:01:08 > 0:01:10- Our journey begins in Llanon.
0:01:42 > 0:01:46- We start with a house that's - at the bottom of the social ladder.
0:01:49 > 0:01:51- What makes this cottage so special?
0:01:51 > 0:01:53- What makes this cottage so special?- - This is the Welsh house, for me.
0:01:53 > 0:01:59- A whitewashed, thatched cottage with - corrugated iron over the thatch.
0:02:00 > 0:02:05- A house like this usually has a - window either side of the front door
0:02:06 > 0:02:07- Yes, that's true.
0:02:07 > 0:02:12- What is now the back of the house - was the front, originally.
0:02:12 > 0:02:15- A cottage was built - directly in front of it...
0:02:15 > 0:02:21- ..so they reversed it and this - has been the front for a century.
0:02:23 > 0:02:24- Let's take a look inside.
0:02:25 > 0:02:28- This is a real gem. - It's hardly changed at all.
0:02:28 > 0:02:30- This floor is magnificent.
0:02:32 > 0:02:36- Yes, pebbles are often used - in this part of Cardiganshire.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40- The worn pebbles look like ropes.
0:02:40 > 0:02:44- A house like this, so close to - the sea, has strong maritime links.
0:02:45 > 0:02:49- A child carved pictures of boats - in the partition.
0:02:50 > 0:02:53- There are actual ropes - in the kitchen.
0:02:53 > 0:02:56- Look at this amazing ceiling!
0:02:58 > 0:03:00- It almost looks trendy.
0:03:01 > 0:03:03- Does it serve a structural purpose?
0:03:04 > 0:03:10- Yes, people used straw rope to tie - down the thatch in the winter.
0:03:11 > 0:03:14- The rope keeps - the bundles of straw in place.
0:03:14 > 0:03:19- Another feature reminiscent - of the house's original period...
0:03:19 > 0:03:21- ..is this louvre chimney.
0:03:22 > 0:03:25- Yes, everything about it - screams out Cardiganshire.
0:03:26 > 0:03:29- This fireplace is so open, - it has no boundaries.
0:03:30 > 0:03:32- They'd burn peat in this fire.
0:03:32 > 0:03:36- It suits a thatched cottage - because it gives off no sparks.
0:03:37 > 0:03:40- They could hardly - have burnt the carpet, anyway!
0:03:40 > 0:03:43- What about the garret? - Is it original?
0:03:44 > 0:03:47- There was probably a garret - from the start...
0:03:47 > 0:03:51- ..but this was rebuilt - in the late 19th century.
0:03:51 > 0:03:55- They used the sides of an old - cupboard bed in the ceiling.
0:03:56 > 0:03:58- Those aren't planks of wood.
0:04:18 > 0:04:23- There must have been thousands of - houses like this in Cardiganshire.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26- Sadly, they've almost all vanished.
0:04:26 > 0:04:30- This was the most common - type of house in this area...
0:04:30 > 0:04:34- ..but it's now - the rarest type of house.
0:04:34 > 0:04:38- The new houses are the same shape - but they're bungalows!
0:04:38 > 0:04:42- Yes, they're white, - single-storey properties.
0:04:42 > 0:04:44- This house looks older than it is.
0:04:44 > 0:04:46- This house looks older than it is.- - Yes, it looks really primitive.
0:04:46 > 0:04:49- If you want to see - a really primitive house...
0:04:50 > 0:04:52- ..follow me, to Llanarth.
0:04:52 > 0:04:53- Come on, Minti!
0:05:11 > 0:05:15- Some parts of Wales - are full of 16th century houses.
0:05:15 > 0:05:20- That's not true in Cardiganshire, - other than its castles and churches.
0:05:21 > 0:05:26- This is a 15th century house, with - an extension built in the 1670s...
0:05:26 > 0:05:30- ..which has a Georgian facade, - to the left.
0:05:31 > 0:05:33- The two parts - don't sit well together.
0:05:34 > 0:05:37- It tells us a lot - about houses from different periods.
0:05:39 > 0:05:42- Henry of Richmond, - who became Henry VII...
0:05:42 > 0:05:45- ..stopped here en route to Bosworth.
0:05:45 > 0:05:48- The room in which he slept - has been kept.
0:05:49 > 0:05:53- During the 17th century, - they wanted to create a new house...
0:05:53 > 0:05:56- ..whilst preserving - the history of the original house.
0:05:56 > 0:05:58- Let's take a look.
0:06:07 > 0:06:09- This front door is magnificent.
0:06:09 > 0:06:12- Yes. - It dates back to the 17th century.
0:06:12 > 0:06:15- Our tour begins - in the old part of the house.
0:06:20 > 0:06:22- This is the old part of the house.
0:06:22 > 0:06:26- This is a lovely room - with a huge fireplace.
0:06:27 > 0:06:30- It's a world away from next door.
0:06:30 > 0:06:31- It's really low.
0:06:36 > 0:06:39- Dr Dilwyn Thomas - and Rhiannon, his wife...
0:06:40 > 0:06:43- ..have lived in Plas y Wern - for fifty years.
0:06:43 > 0:06:47- The pair are as passionate as ever - about their home.
0:06:47 > 0:06:51- We lived in a rented house - in Llanon for two years.
0:06:52 > 0:06:56- We travelled to north Wales - to visit my parents...
0:06:56 > 0:07:00- ..and we bought - 'Country Life' in Aberystwyth.
0:07:00 > 0:07:04- In it, we saw a picture of this - place and we learnt it was for sale.
0:07:05 > 0:07:08- We were up north for two nights...
0:07:08 > 0:07:12- ..and we were desperate - to come back and see the house!
0:07:13 > 0:07:15- We fell in love with the house.
0:07:17 > 0:07:21- The outside was a mess, there was - no water and no electricity.
0:07:22 > 0:07:24- You're going back a few years.
0:07:24 > 0:07:27- Yes, I'm going back almost 50 years.
0:07:28 > 0:07:33- A doctor friend of ours said we had - to be young and very energetic...
0:07:34 > 0:07:40- ..to be able to tackle the work - which lay ahead of us here.
0:07:57 > 0:08:00- Can we finally walk in - through the grand front door?
0:08:01 > 0:08:05- Yes but first, let's stop - and marvel at this fantastic door.
0:08:06 > 0:08:09- This part of the house - was built in the 1670s.
0:08:09 > 0:08:12- This door - is original to that period.
0:08:12 > 0:08:16- Can you see the three seashells - above the door?
0:08:16 > 0:08:20- They symbolize - a pilgrimage made by the family.
0:08:20 > 0:08:25- They sailed from Cardigan - to Santiago de Compostela.
0:08:25 > 0:08:27- I take it they were Catholics.
0:08:27 > 0:08:30- I take it they were Catholics.- - Yes, they were very proud Catholics.
0:08:31 > 0:08:34- I love the key to this door. - It's huge!
0:08:34 > 0:08:36- I want to take it home with me!
0:08:39 > 0:08:41- It's really thick.
0:08:41 > 0:08:42- It's really thick.- - Yes, it's heavy.
0:08:44 > 0:08:45- What a wonderful doorway!
0:08:45 > 0:08:48- What a wonderful doorway!- - Yes and the carpentry is amazing.
0:08:48 > 0:08:49- It's all panelled.
0:08:53 > 0:08:54- It's a really lovely room.
0:08:54 > 0:08:56- It's a really lovely room.- - Yes, it's wonderful.
0:08:56 > 0:08:58- This is all pine.
0:08:58 > 0:09:03- It looks like oak but it's pine, - stained to look like oak.
0:09:03 > 0:09:05- We associate pine with Scandinavia.
0:09:06 > 0:09:08- Yes and that's where - this pine came from.
0:09:09 > 0:09:13- The original receipt for the wood - is in the National Library.
0:09:13 > 0:09:17- It was shipped over - to Aberystwyth harbour in 1670.
0:09:17 > 0:09:22- It's fascinating to learn - that pine was imported back then.
0:09:22 > 0:09:24- The ceiling is stunning.
0:09:25 > 0:09:29- Yes, indeed. This house - is full of remarkable ceilings.
0:09:29 > 0:09:34- This one has a Tudor rose - in the middle and it's lovely.
0:09:34 > 0:09:39- The family wanted to underline - its connection with Henry VII...
0:09:39 > 0:09:41- ..200 years after his visit!
0:09:42 > 0:09:44- Let's enter the drawing room.
0:09:44 > 0:09:47- It comes from the term - 'to withdraw'.
0:09:49 > 0:09:52- It would be a pleasure - to withdraw in here.
0:09:54 > 0:09:56- It's a really light room.
0:09:56 > 0:10:00- Yes, it's entirely different - from the room next door.
0:10:00 > 0:10:02- The paint isn't original.
0:10:02 > 0:10:07- It's a Georgian shade but it's only - been here since the 20th century.
0:10:07 > 0:10:10- The fireplace - is on the gable end wall.
0:10:11 > 0:10:15- You can imagine - how warm these rooms must have been.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18- Many people lived in hall houses.
0:10:18 > 0:10:23- A house with wood-panelled walls, - low ceilings and a fireplace...
0:10:23 > 0:10:25- ..must have been sheer luxury.
0:10:42 > 0:10:46- A substantial sum of money must have - come into this house at some point.
0:10:47 > 0:10:52- Wealth was displayed through - features like wide, fancy stairways.
0:10:52 > 0:10:55- Every step is really low too.
0:10:56 > 0:10:57- Yes, it's a very gradual staircase.
0:10:58 > 0:11:02- They knew how to design a staircase - in the 17th century.
0:11:02 > 0:11:03- I love the spindles.
0:11:04 > 0:11:06- This is Henry VII's room.
0:11:06 > 0:11:08- This is Henry VII's room.- - Is he home?
0:11:29 > 0:11:32- We're at the top of the house.
0:11:32 > 0:11:36- You might expect to see - the servants' quarters up here...
0:11:36 > 0:11:39- ..but what you see here - is an open hall.
0:11:39 > 0:11:43- It's a shock to find this here, - at the top of the house.
0:11:43 > 0:11:45- It was adapted in the 1930s.
0:11:45 > 0:11:48- Alistair Graham, - a friend of Evelyn Waugh...
0:11:49 > 0:11:51- ..lived here during that period.
0:11:52 > 0:11:55- He threw huge, famous, - allegedly debauched parties.
0:11:56 > 0:12:00- This was famous as a party house - and this was the music room.
0:12:08 > 0:12:11- What do you like most - about this house?
0:12:12 > 0:12:14- Peace and tranquillity.
0:12:14 > 0:12:16- All the rooms are quiet.
0:12:17 > 0:12:21- I sit in my library, which is - above this room, and feel at peace.
0:12:21 > 0:12:24- The world passes me by - when I'm in there.
0:12:24 > 0:12:29- Can you see a time - when you'll leave this house?
0:12:29 > 0:12:31- Yes - in a wooden box.
0:12:31 > 0:12:33- I'm not leaving before then!
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0:12:45 > 0:12:45- 888
0:12:45 > 0:12:47- 888- - 888
0:12:51 > 0:12:55- We've seen a modest cottage - and an impressive mansion.
0:12:55 > 0:12:58- What's the next item on the menu?
0:12:58 > 0:13:03- You can't make a programme about the - history of Cardiganshire houses...
0:13:03 > 0:13:06- ..without including a farmhouse.
0:13:06 > 0:13:08- This is a fine example.
0:13:08 > 0:13:10- This is a fine example.- - What makes it so remarkable?
0:13:10 > 0:13:12- We're next to the abbey.
0:13:13 > 0:13:17- We all know about the Dissolution - of Monasteries Act of 1536.
0:13:18 > 0:13:23- There was plenty of stone around for - anyone who wanted to build a house.
0:13:23 > 0:13:28- This was built on the foundations - of an abbey building.
0:13:28 > 0:13:31- This is no ordinary farmhouse. - It's quite grand.
0:13:31 > 0:13:33- Yes and that's why I chose it.
0:13:34 > 0:13:38- There are plenty of 19th century - farmhouses in Cardiganshire...
0:13:39 > 0:13:43- ..with a parlour and a kitchen - with a staircase in the middle.
0:13:43 > 0:13:46- This is surprisingly different.
0:13:51 > 0:13:55- Ty'r Abaty has been - in the Arch family for generations.
0:13:55 > 0:13:59- Dai Arch's generation was the - last one to be raised in the home.
0:14:02 > 0:14:04- No-one has lived here for 15 years.
0:14:04 > 0:14:07- No-one has lived here for 15 years.- - It's been empty for over 15 years.
0:14:07 > 0:14:09- Mam was the last person to leave.
0:14:11 > 0:14:13- It's been empty since then.
0:14:14 > 0:14:19- The Arch family came here when - they became gamekeepers at Nanteos.
0:14:19 > 0:14:24- This place was then - a part of the Nanteos estate.
0:14:25 > 0:14:30- One of the Arch family members then - settled here and farmed the land.
0:14:30 > 0:14:32- You were raised in this house.
0:14:33 > 0:14:33- What sort of experience was it?
0:14:33 > 0:14:36- What sort of experience was it?- - I was one of five children.
0:14:37 > 0:14:39- We had no electricity.
0:14:39 > 0:14:44- We had a stream of visitors - and the place was always alive.
0:14:44 > 0:14:46- They were happy days.
0:14:47 > 0:14:51- We walk straight into the main room, - which is a huge kitchen.
0:14:54 > 0:14:58- The hearth is always the heart - of the home and this is huge!
0:15:00 > 0:15:03- That's a crane - to lift the cooking pot.
0:15:03 > 0:15:05- Yes, it's a great example.
0:15:06 > 0:15:09- Up there is the spit rack - above the fire.
0:15:09 > 0:15:11- To store items that weren't in use.
0:15:21 > 0:15:24- I'm sure they built another kitchen - out the back.
0:15:24 > 0:15:27- Yes, there's a modern kitchen there.
0:15:27 > 0:15:30- There is also a dairy or pantry.
0:15:30 > 0:15:34- It's where they'd cure meat, - make cheese and store milk.
0:15:34 > 0:15:36- Was it a productive farm?
0:15:37 > 0:15:40- Yes, although the land - is relatively poor quality here.
0:15:40 > 0:15:44- The premier agricultural land - is in the south of the county.
0:15:44 > 0:15:49- Other than this main room, is there - anything else that's worth seeing?
0:15:50 > 0:15:51- Yes, indeed.
0:15:51 > 0:15:54- Let's start with the staircase.
0:15:54 > 0:15:55- Is it at the rear?
0:15:55 > 0:15:57- Is it at the rear?- - Yes and you'll soon see why.
0:16:01 > 0:16:03- The staircase is fantastic.
0:16:03 > 0:16:06- The standard of craftsmanship - is outstanding.
0:16:06 > 0:16:11- The staircase is at the rear - of the house, which is unusual.
0:16:11 > 0:16:15- Was it moved from a prominent - position at the front of the house?
0:16:16 > 0:16:17- Yes, most probably.
0:16:17 > 0:16:22- This house has undergone many - alterations and rebuilding work.
0:16:22 > 0:16:25- It's possible the stairs were moved.
0:16:39 > 0:16:41- This is the parlour.
0:16:41 > 0:16:45- Yes. It's entirely different - from the kitchen.
0:16:46 > 0:16:50- These panels look smoother - than the ones we saw at Plas y Wern.
0:16:52 > 0:16:56- The panel above the fire is - important - it has a painting on it.
0:16:56 > 0:16:58- It's rather dark.
0:16:59 > 0:17:03- The figure in the middle - represents youth...
0:17:03 > 0:17:06- ..and it's being tempted by evil, - on the right.
0:17:06 > 0:17:09- The owners must have been wealthy.
0:17:09 > 0:17:12- The owners must have been wealthy.- - Yes, it was an aristocrat's house.
0:17:12 > 0:17:17- The picture down there - dates back to the mid-18th century.
0:17:18 > 0:17:20- It's changed since then.
0:17:20 > 0:17:24- Yes, it's lost the dormer windows - and it looks smaller.
0:17:24 > 0:17:26- The picture is misleading.
0:17:28 > 0:17:31- It seems like an ordinary house.
0:17:31 > 0:17:36- It was a mansion in the 18th century - and a farmhouse in the 19th century.
0:17:36 > 0:17:38- It's empty and I worry about it.
0:17:39 > 0:17:42- The ceiling's coming down - and it's damp.
0:17:42 > 0:17:46- There's no other house like it - in Cardiganshire.
0:17:55 > 0:17:59- I think of Aberystwyth - and I think of the Victorian period.
0:18:00 > 0:18:04- The train and other Victorian - additions make the town what it is.
0:18:04 > 0:18:06- I agree with you.
0:18:06 > 0:18:12- Aberystwyth's golden era was in the - late 19th and early 20th centuries.
0:18:16 > 0:18:20- There are great houses - from all periods on Llanbadarn Road.
0:18:21 > 0:18:25- There are Edwardian properties, - a 1930's property...
0:18:25 > 0:18:28- ..and the house we're about to see - - Garth Celyn.
0:18:28 > 0:18:32- The land was - purchased from Gogerddan estate.
0:18:33 > 0:18:35- A man called John Morgan bought it.
0:18:36 > 0:18:37- He was an amazing man.
0:18:37 > 0:18:42- I believe he was ahead of his time, - when it came to this house.
0:18:42 > 0:18:46- He was well-connected, through - his work as a timber merchant.
0:18:46 > 0:18:52- He commissioned an architect - from London to design the house.
0:18:53 > 0:18:55- He worked hard - to build the house...
0:18:56 > 0:19:00- ..but sadly, lived here for only - four years, before he died.
0:19:00 > 0:19:05- Peter Thomas and his family are - Garth Celyn's latest custodians.
0:19:05 > 0:19:09- This is an important Victorian house - in Aberystwyth.
0:19:09 > 0:19:11- Which features do you like?
0:19:13 > 0:19:15- I like everything about this house.
0:19:16 > 0:19:21- Open a Victorian pattern book - and you'd expect to see this house.
0:19:21 > 0:19:26- They've combined local grey stone - with yellow and white stones.
0:19:26 > 0:19:29- This is typical of Aberystwyth.
0:19:29 > 0:19:35- This house faces Llanbadarn Road - but the entrance is on this side.
0:19:35 > 0:19:39- It's a house which has two fronts, - in a manner of speaking.
0:19:47 > 0:19:51- The standard of the exterior - continues inside.
0:19:52 > 0:19:53- This mosaic floor is lovely.
0:19:53 > 0:19:54- This mosaic floor is lovely.- - Yes.
0:19:55 > 0:19:57- The blue tiles are still bright.
0:19:57 > 0:20:00- The blue tiles are still bright.- - Yes - the work of Italian craftsmen.
0:20:01 > 0:20:04- It's unusual - to have such a long hallway...
0:20:04 > 0:20:07- ..before you reach - the centre of the house.
0:20:07 > 0:20:11- You can't see the stairs - from the hall and that's important.
0:20:12 > 0:20:16- When you enter a terraced house, - the stairs are in front of you.
0:20:16 > 0:20:21- Here, you walk past the study, - the parlour and the dining room...
0:20:22 > 0:20:25- ..before you see - this high-quality staircase.
0:20:26 > 0:20:30- The service area was under the - stairs behind the obscured glass.
0:20:31 > 0:20:34- How many members of staff - ran this household?
0:20:34 > 0:20:38- Four people worked here - and they lived in the attic.
0:20:38 > 0:20:42- Let's see an interesting feature - on the first floor.
0:20:46 > 0:20:50- I don't think we've seen bathrooms - on Y Ty Cymreig before...
0:20:50 > 0:20:54- ..but we've seen two fine examples - in Cardiganshire.
0:20:54 > 0:20:58- This was the first bath in - Aberystwyth plumbed for hot water.
0:20:59 > 0:21:00- It's a real whopper.
0:21:00 > 0:21:02- Yes, it's deep and it's long.
0:21:02 > 0:21:04- I'd love to bathe in it!
0:21:05 > 0:21:10- It was fitted in 1884, in the early - years of baths with running water.
0:21:12 > 0:21:17- You rang the bell when you were - ready to have your back scrubbed!
0:21:17 > 0:21:20- "I'm ready for my talc and towels!"
0:21:21 > 0:21:24- It looks like a piece of furniture.
0:21:25 > 0:21:29- It was just like a parlour, - with drapes, blinds and wallpaper.
0:21:29 > 0:21:32- It looked like every other room.
0:21:45 > 0:21:48- A few important people - have lived here.
0:21:48 > 0:21:54- Thomas Darlington bought the house - in the early 20th century.
0:21:54 > 0:21:57- Professor Aaron and his family - also lived here.
0:21:59 > 0:22:03- He bought the house in 1942, - during the Second World War.
0:22:03 > 0:22:07- He was banned from taking residence - for three years...
0:22:07 > 0:22:11- ..because the house was commandeered - by the army.
0:22:11 > 0:22:14- They used the house as a hospital.
0:22:14 > 0:22:16- If these walls could talk...
0:22:16 > 0:22:21- ..they'd tell many stories - and share fascinating experiences.
0:22:21 > 0:22:25- Maybe that makes it - an especially warm house.
0:22:25 > 0:22:27- It's a welcoming house.
0:22:38 > 0:22:40- We're now in the roof.
0:22:40 > 0:22:42- Yes, we're almost in the roof.
0:22:43 > 0:22:46- The maids slept here, - on the third floor.
0:22:46 > 0:22:49- There are four rooms - and one tiny one up here.
0:22:49 > 0:22:53- It's no more than a cupboard - but someone must have slept here...
0:22:54 > 0:22:56- ..because the walls are panelled.
0:22:56 > 0:22:59- It was freezing in the winter!
0:22:59 > 0:23:05- Was this beautiful staircase built - just for that tiny room?
0:23:05 > 0:23:09- No, the house's biggest - and best surprise is up here.
0:23:10 > 0:23:13- This is very heavy - as it's made of lead.
0:23:13 > 0:23:15- Let's have a go.
0:23:23 > 0:23:26- You can see - why they wanted a roof terrace.
0:23:27 > 0:23:28- What a stunning view!
0:23:30 > 0:23:36- We're very lucky because we can see - the house's original blueprint.
0:23:36 > 0:23:37- These are quite rare.
0:23:39 > 0:23:42- The roof terrace - wasn't on the original plan.
0:23:42 > 0:23:45- When you look at most blueprints...
0:23:45 > 0:23:49- ..you see the design - is more fancy than the end product.
0:23:50 > 0:23:53- That's because - people usually run out of money.
0:23:54 > 0:23:59- In this case, they added something - extra during the building process.
0:24:00 > 0:24:03- All it needs - is a barbecue and a bar!
0:24:03 > 0:24:04- Yes, a cocktail bar!
0:24:27 > 0:24:29- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:24:29 > 0:24:30- .