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0:00:00 > 0:00:04- You don't need much help to guess - where we are in this programme.
0:00:04 > 0:00:09- There were once 50 windmills - and 50 watermills on this island.
0:00:09 > 0:00:14- They produced flour on the island - known as the Mother of Wales.
0:00:14 > 0:00:18- There's more to Anglesey - than industrial buildings.
0:00:18 > 0:00:20- Welcome to Y Ty Cymreig.
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0:00:43 > 0:00:46- In this programme, we'll see - some of Anglesey's great houses.
0:00:47 > 0:00:49- A chateau - yes, honestly!
0:00:50 > 0:00:53- One of the last thatched cottages - on the island.
0:00:54 > 0:00:56- A lighthouse which is a unique home.
0:00:57 > 0:01:01- A mansion which has been - in the same family for 400 years.
0:01:25 > 0:01:30- Anyone who's spent time on the - Menai Straits has seen this house.
0:01:30 > 0:01:35- It's totally different from - anything else you see on this river.
0:01:37 > 0:01:38- Yes, it's unique.
0:01:39 > 0:01:43- Chateau Rhianfa is probably - the only chateau in Wales.
0:01:44 > 0:01:47- It was designed - to look like a Loire Valley chateau.
0:01:48 > 0:01:52- The land was bought - by the 2nd Baronet of Bodelwyddan...
0:01:52 > 0:01:54- ..Sir John Hay Williams, in 1849.
0:01:55 > 0:01:59- The chateau was designed by - an architect from Liverpool.
0:01:59 > 0:02:03- I'm not sure why they built - a chateau in Wales but why not?
0:02:03 > 0:02:08- Sir John was rich and had romantic - ideas about medieval design.
0:02:09 > 0:02:11- It's a complete fantasy.
0:02:22 > 0:02:26- The garden is an important part - of the Victorian image.
0:02:26 > 0:02:30- Yes, collectors returned - from China, India and so on...
0:02:30 > 0:02:33- ..with rhododendron, frangipani - and so on.
0:02:33 > 0:02:39- Wealthy people bought them - and planted them in their gardens.
0:02:39 > 0:02:42- This garden is sheltered - and that helps.
0:02:42 > 0:02:45- There are several buildings - in the garden.
0:02:46 > 0:02:47- That's a special one.
0:02:47 > 0:02:50- Yes, the dovecote is my favourite.
0:02:50 > 0:02:55- The romantic shape of its roof - is inspired by French designs.
0:02:56 > 0:02:58- I'm very fond - of the fish scale slates.
0:02:59 > 0:03:03- This reflects - the sheer magnitude of their wealth.
0:03:03 > 0:03:08- They could afford to spend pots - of money on a dovecote - on a whim!
0:03:17 > 0:03:20- Much of what we see here - is original to the house.
0:03:20 > 0:03:22- This is a magnificent ceiling.
0:03:23 > 0:03:27- Yes and that's the original paint, - which is wonderful.
0:03:27 > 0:03:32- Considering this place was converted - into student flats in the 1960s...
0:03:32 > 0:03:35- ..it's in amazingly good condition.
0:03:35 > 0:03:40- These American walnut doors are the - best available in the Victorian age.
0:03:40 > 0:03:46- You can see from the decor that the - present owners respect the property.
0:03:46 > 0:03:51- Yes, the 20th century furniture - fits in really well.
0:03:51 > 0:03:56- The architectural features such as - the fireplace and the ceiling...
0:03:57 > 0:04:01- ..are a mixture - of Baroque, Indian and classical.
0:04:01 > 0:04:06- Maybe that's why 20th century - pop art furniture is perfect for it!
0:04:06 > 0:04:09- What is that castle I can see - beneath the window?
0:04:10 > 0:04:12- Whatever it is, it suits the room!
0:04:12 > 0:04:16- You could throw almost anything - into the mix.
0:04:16 > 0:04:22- It looks like William Burgess's work - at Cardiff Castle and Castell Coch.
0:04:22 > 0:04:24- It's actually a working fireplace.
0:04:25 > 0:04:28- It's under a window - but there's a flue to one side.
0:04:44 > 0:04:47- We've moved - to the back of the house.
0:04:47 > 0:04:50- This area looks as though - it should be outside.
0:04:51 > 0:04:53- It was a conservatory - or an orangery.
0:04:54 > 0:04:57- Even here, there's a beautiful - fancy staircase.
0:04:57 > 0:05:02- It looks even more stunning - because the wall is painted black.
0:05:02 > 0:05:06- This really fancy water bowl - is there for the plants.
0:05:06 > 0:05:08- Look at those Romanesque columns!
0:05:08 > 0:05:11- It's all very, very ornate.
0:05:12 > 0:05:17- It must have been very expensive and - no-one could afford to do it today.
0:05:17 > 0:05:20- There's a huge element - of fantasy here.
0:05:21 > 0:05:22- Yes, it's pure fantasy.
0:05:24 > 0:05:27- Wealthy Victorians - were very conservative...
0:05:27 > 0:05:32- ..but the architecture we see here - is anything but conservative!
0:05:52 > 0:05:55- This lady is the reason we're here.
0:05:55 > 0:05:57- Yes, that's Lady Sarah...
0:05:57 > 0:06:01- ..the woman responsible for - the decor of this place.
0:06:01 > 0:06:05- She doesn't look too happy about it - in that portrait!
0:06:08 > 0:06:10- How many houses have a lift?
0:06:10 > 0:06:11- How many houses have a lift?- - Very few.
0:06:15 > 0:06:16- Come on, Minti!
0:06:37 > 0:06:41- When someone mentions a lighthouse, - you think of this.
0:06:41 > 0:06:43- Tall and stripey - with a light on the top.
0:06:44 > 0:06:46- Think again - some are different.
0:07:04 > 0:07:07- I've always wanted to see - a lighthouse on Y Ty Cymreig.
0:07:08 > 0:07:10- There are nine of them on Anglesey.
0:07:10 > 0:07:12- Tell me about this one.
0:07:12 > 0:07:14- Tell me about this one.- - It was built in 1835.
0:07:14 > 0:07:17- It's unusual, - in that it has no tower.
0:07:18 > 0:07:23- Most of our lighthouses were built - in association with Trinity House...
0:07:23 > 0:07:26- ..but this one - was built by Jesse Hartley.
0:07:26 > 0:07:28- It looks like a castle.
0:07:28 > 0:07:33- Neo-Gothic fashion was growing - and it looks like a mini mansion...
0:07:33 > 0:07:36- ..or a lodge for a mansion - from that period.
0:07:41 > 0:07:45- Why did they need three houses?
0:07:46 > 0:07:48- Three people ran every lighthouse.
0:07:49 > 0:07:52- One lighthouse keeper - and two pilots.
0:08:02 > 0:08:06- We live in the main house and we - let the cottages to holidaymakers.
0:08:07 > 0:08:13- Iona, Robin and Finn, the - Irish Wolfhound, own the lighthouse.
0:08:14 > 0:08:17- How did you come across this place?
0:08:18 > 0:08:21- When we first met each other, - over 20 years ago...
0:08:22 > 0:08:24- ..we came here for a picnic.
0:08:24 > 0:08:26- We sat there and Robin said...
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- .."If I could live anywhere - in the world, it would be here."
0:08:31 > 0:08:35- I replied, "Don't be silly! - Who could buy a lighthouse?"
0:08:35 > 0:08:38- Many years later, - we were on holiday here...
0:08:39 > 0:08:44- ..when we passed an estate agent - and saw Point Lynas was for sale.
0:08:45 > 0:08:47- Two years later, we bought it.
0:08:47 > 0:08:51- Are you in charge - of keeping the lamp shining?
0:08:52 > 0:08:56- No, although Robin says - I'm the foghorn in this place!
0:08:56 > 0:08:59- Trinity House - maintain the lighthouse building.
0:09:01 > 0:09:04- They come here once a month - to keep an eye on it.
0:09:17 > 0:09:18- How does the lamp work?
0:09:18 > 0:09:20- How does the lamp work?- - It's a work of art.
0:09:21 > 0:09:23- It's really beautiful.
0:09:24 > 0:09:27- All the hard work - is done by three small bulbs.
0:09:28 > 0:09:30- I have one of those bulbs - in my pocket.
0:09:30 > 0:09:33- Look how incredibly small this is!
0:09:33 > 0:09:38- Three 250 watt bulbs, what you'd - have in a domestic light fitting...
0:09:38 > 0:09:40- ..light up this room.
0:09:40 > 0:09:42- You can see the light 20 miles away.
0:09:43 > 0:09:47- The magnifying work - is all done by these lovely lenses.
0:09:47 > 0:09:50- Yes, the glass is really wonderful.
0:09:50 > 0:09:52- Yes, indeed.
0:09:53 > 0:09:57- How was the light produced - before electricity was invented?
0:09:58 > 0:10:01- They used paraffin lamps - and oil lamps before that.
0:10:01 > 0:10:04- There was a massive fire risk - in the house.
0:10:05 > 0:10:08- The keeper's house - is just behind this wall.
0:10:08 > 0:10:10- That's why it's a stone staircase.
0:10:24 > 0:10:27- What do you like most - about living here?
0:10:27 > 0:10:30- The best thing about it is the sea.
0:10:30 > 0:10:32- I love to sit and watch the sea.
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0:10:50 > 0:10:52- 888- - 888
0:10:55 > 0:11:00- Welcome back to Y Ty Cymreig - and to a hidden gem - Carreglwyd.
0:11:15 > 0:11:18- Unlike the chateau we saw earlier, - this is tucked away.
0:11:19 > 0:11:21- Yes, it's completely private.
0:11:21 > 0:11:24- This mansion was built in 1634.
0:11:24 > 0:11:28- It isn't on a hilltop - and it offers no glorious views.
0:11:28 > 0:11:30- In fact, it's hidden in a hollow.
0:11:44 > 0:11:48- To all intents and purposes, - it looks like a Georgian house.
0:11:48 > 0:11:50- It's been remodelled.
0:11:51 > 0:11:55- Everything to the left of the - central chimney is 17th century.
0:11:55 > 0:11:59- Everything to the right of it - is 18th century...
0:11:59 > 0:12:02- ..and there are - some Victorian touches here.
0:12:02 > 0:12:04- It looks like one building.
0:12:05 > 0:12:08- For once, pebbledash - has proved to be an asset!
0:12:08 > 0:12:11- Yes, but I'd never say that - about any other house!
0:12:12 > 0:12:15- They worked hard - to keep the symmetry.
0:12:15 > 0:12:17- What features can we see here?
0:12:17 > 0:12:20- These are Georgian windows.
0:12:20 > 0:12:22- Ordinary ones to the left...
0:12:22 > 0:12:26- ..and huge ones to the right, - in the dining room.
0:12:27 > 0:12:31- The dormers at the top - have side-hung sashes.
0:12:32 > 0:12:36- The Georgian fanlight - above the door is outstanding.
0:12:51 > 0:12:54- This is the best view of the house.
0:12:54 > 0:12:58- The trouble is I can't turn the boat - around to admire it!
0:13:02 > 0:13:06- Wherever we look in this room, - there's a chunk of history.
0:13:06 > 0:13:09- There are centuries of history - in this room.
0:13:11 > 0:13:15- Yes, Carreglwyd has been - in the same family...
0:13:15 > 0:13:18- ..since it was built - in the 17th century.
0:13:18 > 0:13:22- There are portraits on the walls - in almost every room.
0:13:22 > 0:13:26- In the hall, the first room you see - when you enter the house....
0:13:27 > 0:13:31- ..is a portrait of William Griffith, - who built this house.
0:13:32 > 0:13:34- He was Master of the Rolls - for Charles I.
0:13:34 > 0:13:39- The golden handshake he received - upon his retirement...
0:13:39 > 0:13:40- ..paid for this house.
0:13:41 > 0:13:42- Who's that lady?
0:13:42 > 0:13:43- Who's that lady?- - That's his wife.
0:13:44 > 0:13:46- Her portrait is twice as big as his!
0:13:47 > 0:13:48- It doesn't say her name.
0:13:48 > 0:13:53- She's known as The Wife of - Chancellor Griffith of Carreglwyd.
0:14:00 > 0:14:06- The owner and passionate caretaker - of Carreglwyd now is Tom Carpenter.
0:14:06 > 0:14:09- The house has been adapted - several times.
0:14:10 > 0:14:13- I took over the estate in 1982.
0:14:13 > 0:14:17- A significant amount of - renovation work was carried out...
0:14:17 > 0:14:19- ..between 1982 and 1985.
0:14:20 > 0:14:24- My aim was to return this part - of the house to the 1760s.
0:14:24 > 0:14:28- The kitchen and breakfast room - have been modernised.
0:14:29 > 0:14:32- That contrast works well for us.
0:14:33 > 0:14:38- My wife made the greatest sacrifice - and she did most of the hard work.
0:14:41 > 0:14:44- It's great - in spring, summer and autumn...
0:14:44 > 0:14:47- ..but winter - continues to be a challenge.
0:14:47 > 0:14:51- High oil prices - make it an expensive house to heat.
0:14:51 > 0:14:54- Have you made sacrifices - or is it a privilege?
0:14:55 > 0:14:56- It's both of those things.
0:14:57 > 0:15:02- I can't imagine being away from here - for a long period of time.
0:15:14 > 0:15:18- These windows - are bigger than the other ones.
0:15:18 > 0:15:19- It's a lighter room.
0:15:19 > 0:15:21- It's a lighter room.- - Yes.
0:15:21 > 0:15:23- That's the original stain.
0:15:23 > 0:15:25- They haven't been painted.
0:15:26 > 0:15:29- These arches - are very much Georgian features.
0:15:29 > 0:15:32- Yes, they're typically Georgian.
0:15:32 > 0:15:36- We're talking about - the classical period here.
0:15:36 > 0:15:39- This curved door - leads to the kitchen.
0:15:39 > 0:15:42- This is one of my all-time - favourite doors.
0:15:43 > 0:15:48- Imagine how difficult it must have - been to hang a curved door!
0:15:48 > 0:15:50- It's verging on the impossible.
0:15:51 > 0:15:53- It could do with some polish!
0:15:56 > 0:15:59- It's wonderful - to be enveloped in history.
0:15:59 > 0:16:04- This magnificent landing - is like a first floor hall.
0:16:04 > 0:16:07- It's big enough - to be a take-off and landing!
0:16:07 > 0:16:12- This is the main staircase and the - servants' staircase is next to it.
0:16:13 > 0:16:16- From what period - does this part date?
0:16:16 > 0:16:19- It's the original - 17th century building...
0:16:20 > 0:16:24- ..as you can see from the beams - and the mouldings.
0:16:25 > 0:16:27- This is definitely 17th century.
0:16:27 > 0:16:30- Did this room - have a particular function?
0:16:31 > 0:16:35- Its size suggests to me - this was a reception room.
0:16:35 > 0:16:39- It's certainly a great space - in which to display heirlooms.
0:16:39 > 0:16:42- Are there bedrooms off this landing?
0:16:42 > 0:16:45- Are there bedrooms off this landing?- - Yes, let me show you my favourite.
0:16:46 > 0:16:48- Isn't it lovely?
0:16:49 > 0:16:52- It isn't a huge room - but the fireplace is wonderful.
0:16:52 > 0:16:58- It dates back to the Regency period, - which was the early 19th century.
0:16:58 > 0:17:02- We tend to link Georgian style - with plain designs.
0:17:02 > 0:17:04- Yes, classical designs.
0:17:04 > 0:17:06- This is exceptionally fancy!
0:17:07 > 0:17:11- There's a dado rail and a - decorative strip around the ceiling.
0:17:12 > 0:17:13- It really is ornate.
0:17:15 > 0:17:19- Yes but think about the - leading architect, John Nash...
0:17:19 > 0:17:25- ..and his work at Yr Hafod - and in the famous Brighton Pavilion.
0:17:26 > 0:17:29- We see similar designs - on this fireplace.
0:17:29 > 0:17:33- This Indian shape - was the height of fashion.
0:17:34 > 0:17:37- Chinese and Indian designs - were all the rage.
0:17:38 > 0:17:40- There's no plaster here - - it's all wood.
0:17:41 > 0:17:43- The cornice is made of wood as well.
0:17:55 > 0:17:57- Does it feel like a Welsh house - to you?
0:17:57 > 0:18:01- The children all speak Welsh - and I feel Welsh.
0:18:01 > 0:18:04- My family - is a part of the history of Wales.
0:18:04 > 0:18:08- Being a part of the 'Yes' campaign - for the Welsh Assembly...
0:18:09 > 0:18:11- ..made it all come alive for me.
0:18:11 > 0:18:14- Everyone has a part to play - in the new Wales...
0:18:14 > 0:18:16- ..and I'm proud of that.
0:18:23 > 0:18:28- It's my duty to help my children - follow their own path in life...
0:18:28 > 0:18:32- ..and also to be a part - of preserving Carreglwyd.
0:18:38 > 0:18:42- Once, Anglesey was covered with - whitewashed thatched cottages.
0:18:43 > 0:18:47- Today, Swtan in the north of the - island, is the last one standing.
0:18:49 > 0:18:51- Greg, you must be in your element.
0:18:52 > 0:18:54- Yes, this cottage - makes my heart sing.
0:18:55 > 0:18:57- This is why we make Y Ty Cymreig.
0:18:57 > 0:19:01- It's all about - pretty, original cottages like this.
0:19:01 > 0:19:04- This is - the quintessential Welsh house.
0:19:04 > 0:19:05- Yes, indeed.
0:19:28 > 0:19:32- We're very close to the sea. - Was this a fisherman's cottage?
0:19:33 > 0:19:34- It was a smallholding.
0:19:34 > 0:19:37- The pigsty has gone - but the calf shed is here.
0:19:38 > 0:19:40- There are large gardens here.
0:19:41 > 0:19:46- The oat straw on the roof - suggests they cultivated oat here.
0:19:46 > 0:19:49- It was a smallholding - but they may have fished as well.
0:19:50 > 0:19:53- People did what they could - to make ends meet.
0:19:53 > 0:19:55- The main house is on this side...
0:19:55 > 0:19:58- ..with the fireplace - and the dairy next to it.
0:19:59 > 0:20:02- This was common layout - in west Wales.
0:20:02 > 0:20:05- This floor looks like concrete.
0:20:05 > 0:20:06- No, it isn't concrete.
0:20:07 > 0:20:09- This is the original earth floor.
0:20:10 > 0:20:15- If you look closely, you can see - the nails where the lino was.
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- The roof has been rebuilt - but it is very traditional.
0:20:19 > 0:20:23- The roof trusses are new, - as is the roof structure.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27- The gorse underthatch - is covered with canvas.
0:20:27 > 0:20:32- They would have originally used - old grain sacks.
0:20:32 > 0:20:33- What is the house used for today?
0:20:33 > 0:20:35- What is the house used for today?- - It's a museum.
0:20:35 > 0:20:38- Cadw and the National Trust - aren't involved.
0:20:39 > 0:20:43- The Porth Swtan community, - assisted by Menter Mon...
0:20:43 > 0:20:47- ..raised the money - to carry out this project.
0:20:47 > 0:20:51- Peter Muckle - helped the Porth Swtan community...
0:20:52 > 0:20:56- ..but perhaps the leading expert - was a man who lived in Swtan.
0:21:04 > 0:21:08- Gwilym, you were the last person - to be born in this house.
0:21:08 > 0:21:10- For how long did you live here?
0:21:10 > 0:21:13- I lived here for over 30 years.
0:21:13 > 0:21:15- What memories do you have - of living here?
0:21:16 > 0:21:20- Good memories of long summers - spent on the beach...
0:21:21 > 0:21:23- ..and going fishing with my dad.
0:21:24 > 0:21:27- Going out on balmy summer evenings.
0:21:27 > 0:21:30- Was it a comfortable home?
0:21:30 > 0:21:34- It was alright, - as long as you were by the fire.
0:21:34 > 0:21:40- If you moved away from the fire it - was cold, especially in the winter.
0:21:41 > 0:21:43- It was great in the summer.
0:21:43 > 0:21:45- Where did you sleep?
0:21:45 > 0:21:46- Where did you sleep?- - Up in the cockloft.
0:21:48 > 0:21:49- Up there.
0:22:05 > 0:22:08- This is the calf house - and it is also thatched.
0:22:08 > 0:22:12- They needed the roof nets - because it's windy here.
0:22:12 > 0:22:14- This is a tiny space.
0:22:15 > 0:22:16- This must be the calf.
0:22:16 > 0:22:18- This must be the calf.- - Yes, Minti's new friend!
0:22:18 > 0:22:21- You can see the walls, - which are interesting.
0:22:22 > 0:22:26- This local stone probably came from - the fields and from the beach.
0:22:27 > 0:22:29- They didn't waste whitewash.
0:22:29 > 0:22:32- Only the bottom half of the wall - was whitewashed.
0:22:33 > 0:22:36- It's wonderful to see the gorse.
0:22:36 > 0:22:40- This is how the underthatch looks - without a canvas.
0:22:46 > 0:22:49- Are you proud of - your renovated former home?
0:22:49 > 0:22:54- Yes, I'm proud of it and - it can make me yearn for the past.
0:22:57 > 0:22:59- You're now a grandfather.
0:22:59 > 0:23:02- You're now a grandfather.- - Yes, I have six grandchildren.
0:23:02 > 0:23:04- They love to come here.
0:23:04 > 0:23:07- I hope some of them - help keep this place going.
0:23:14 > 0:23:17- There are few examples like this - in Wales.
0:23:17 > 0:23:19- Unfortunately, that's true.
0:23:19 > 0:23:23- The lesson for us all is - how the community came together...
0:23:24 > 0:23:25- ..to save this place.
0:23:26 > 0:23:29- If everyone in Wales did that...
0:23:29 > 0:23:33- ..we'd have enough houses - to fill 20 series of Y Ty Cymreig!
0:23:33 > 0:23:36- Yes but unfortunately, - that isn't the case.
0:23:54 > 0:23:57- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:23:57 > 0:23:57- .