0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:04- Glamorganshire is Wales's - most populated county...
0:00:04 > 0:00:06- ..and its second largest.
0:00:06 > 0:00:09- With all those people - and all that land...
0:00:09 > 0:00:15- ..this may be the Welsh county with - the richest architectural heritage.
0:00:15 > 0:00:16- Welcome to Y Ty Cymreig.
0:00:20 > 0:00:22- 888
0:00:25 > 0:00:27- 888
0:00:30 > 0:00:32- 888
0:00:35 > 0:00:37- 888
0:00:38 > 0:00:43- In this programme, a manor house - in the Vale of Glamorgan.
0:00:44 > 0:00:49- A Walterston house whose name - was changed from English to Welsh.
0:00:49 > 0:00:53- In Penarth, we see The Red House, - which is actually white.
0:00:54 > 0:00:56- First, - a farm which was once a castle.
0:00:56 > 0:00:58- Welcome to the programme.
0:01:14 > 0:01:19- We're in Glamorganshire, the most - highly populated county in Wales.
0:01:19 > 0:01:23- Yes, over 1.5 million people - live in this large county.
0:01:23 > 0:01:27- Half of the population of Wales - lives in this old county.
0:01:28 > 0:01:29- Everyone lives here!
0:01:29 > 0:01:33- It's a county which has - a vast mixture of terrain.
0:01:34 > 0:01:36- Deep valleys in the south...
0:01:36 > 0:01:40- ..and flat agricultural land - which flows down to the sea.
0:01:40 > 0:01:43- It stretches to Swansea - and the Gower.
0:01:43 > 0:01:48- That gives us a huge scope to find - houses in their original condition.
0:01:48 > 0:01:53- You'd be forgiven for thinking that - but it's been a real struggle.
0:01:53 > 0:01:57- It amazes me, considering the size - of Glamorganshire.
0:01:57 > 0:02:00- The grants system in the valleys...
0:02:00 > 0:02:04- ..transformed almost all - of the old Victorian terraces.
0:02:04 > 0:02:06- The miners' houses, in other words.
0:02:06 > 0:02:07- The miners' houses, in other words.- - Real Welsh houses!
0:02:07 > 0:02:10- Hitler left his mark on Swansea...
0:02:10 > 0:02:14- ..and little remains untouched - on the Gower Peninsular.
0:02:14 > 0:02:19- The problem in the Vale of Glamorgan - is the money from Cardiff.
0:02:19 > 0:02:21- People moved here from Cardiff...
0:02:21 > 0:02:25- ..and used their money - to renovate old farmhouses.
0:02:25 > 0:02:29- Glamorganshire - is full of gold-plated taps!
0:02:29 > 0:02:32- That's not true of this place, - thankfully.
0:02:32 > 0:02:36- It's in good condition, - considering its age.
0:02:36 > 0:02:38- It dates back to the 15th century.
0:02:39 > 0:02:42- Arguably, it dates back - to the 11th century...
0:02:42 > 0:02:44- ..as it was originally a castle.
0:02:45 > 0:02:49- It's called Castle Farm but - there's no castle to be seen here.
0:02:49 > 0:02:53- It isn't next to a castle, - so this may be the old castle...
0:02:53 > 0:02:58- ..adapted in the 15th century, - after the times of Owain Glyndwr.
0:02:58 > 0:03:00- Which part is the castle?
0:03:00 > 0:03:02- Which part is the castle?- - This wall.
0:03:02 > 0:03:04- We're standing on the old wall.
0:03:04 > 0:03:06- The gable end, too.
0:03:07 > 0:03:09- After Owain Glyndwr's revolution...
0:03:10 > 0:03:15- ..people decided to use the walls - as a foundation for this hall house.
0:03:15 > 0:03:17- We're here to see the hall.
0:03:17 > 0:03:20- This is a first for Y Ty Cymreig.
0:03:20 > 0:03:23- We've never before - seen a medieval hall house...
0:03:23 > 0:03:26- ..where the hall - is on the first floor.
0:03:39 > 0:03:40- Well!
0:03:41 > 0:03:43- Isn't it fantastic?
0:03:43 > 0:03:46- We've seen several hall houses - on Y Ty Cymreig...
0:03:46 > 0:03:49- ..but you see the purpose - of this room at a glance.
0:03:50 > 0:03:54- You can sense how it felt - to stand in an open hall like this.
0:03:55 > 0:04:00- Standing outside, I didn't expect it - to look like this on the inside.
0:04:00 > 0:04:04- You certainly don't expect - to find this on the first floor.
0:04:04 > 0:04:10- There are a handful of these in - Glamorganshire and in Pembrokeshire.
0:04:11 > 0:04:13- The concept stems from castles...
0:04:14 > 0:04:19- ..where the living accommodation - was upstairs for security reasons.
0:04:19 > 0:04:22- Is this roof structure original?
0:04:22 > 0:04:26- We're looking at a castle which - was adapted in the 15th century.
0:04:27 > 0:04:31- That wall and the gable - date back to the 11th century...
0:04:31 > 0:04:34- ..but the room was built - during the 15th century.
0:04:34 > 0:04:37- Most of the roof structure - is 15th century.
0:04:38 > 0:04:42- However, it was renovated - in Victorian times.
0:04:42 > 0:04:48- The fancy pieces of woodwork are - relatively new, Victorian additions.
0:04:48 > 0:04:52- It's spectacular and amazing - that it's still intact.
0:04:52 > 0:04:57- Yes, and you see how it felt - to be in a fancy room such as this.
0:04:57 > 0:05:00- The details - reveal the status of the family.
0:05:00 > 0:05:02- There are two fireplaces here.
0:05:03 > 0:05:07- A small one in the old castle wall - and a more recent one over here.
0:05:08 > 0:05:10- What can you tell me about them?
0:05:10 > 0:05:13- The smaller one - was part of the castle...
0:05:13 > 0:05:16- ..so the castle bedroom - had a fireplace.
0:05:17 > 0:05:18- That's what we see there.
0:05:19 > 0:05:24- This huge chimney is connected to - what you see downstairs...
0:05:24 > 0:05:27- ..in what was - the castle's main kitchen.
0:05:27 > 0:05:29- This one looks Tudor to me.
0:05:30 > 0:05:33- The shape of the stonework - suggests that.
0:05:35 > 0:05:40- This dates back to the period - during which the hall was created.
0:05:40 > 0:05:44- There are few 15th century - fireplaces of this size in Wales.
0:05:45 > 0:05:48- That's why - this is a Grade I listed building.
0:05:48 > 0:05:51- Grade I is the highest grading.
0:06:43 > 0:06:47- We've left one magnificent building - and come to another.
0:06:47 > 0:06:51- Yes, - this is a fantastic Tudor manor.
0:06:51 > 0:06:55- There are a lot of Tudor houses - in the Vale of Glamorgan.
0:06:55 > 0:07:00- We're talking about the 16th century - during the reign of Elizabeth I.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03- This gable end is striking...
0:07:03 > 0:07:07- ..but I'm aware there is - a much larger structure behind it.
0:07:07 > 0:07:11- Was there more than one house - within this building?
0:07:11 > 0:07:13- Yes, it's a massive property.
0:07:13 > 0:07:17- The floor plan - reveals a complicated design.
0:07:17 > 0:07:23- There were two kitchens here, which - suggests two families lived here.
0:07:23 > 0:07:26- We know it was built - between 1580 and 1600...
0:07:26 > 0:07:31- ..and it may have been the home - of a large extended family.
0:07:32 > 0:07:34- Where's the main house?
0:07:34 > 0:07:35- Where's the main house?- - This isn't it!
0:07:36 > 0:07:41- You have to go to the front - to see the house in its full glory.
0:07:56 > 0:07:59- The front is far more striking.
0:07:59 > 0:08:02- You get no sense of this - from the gable end.
0:08:02 > 0:08:06- Tudor design - packed in lots of small gables.
0:08:06 > 0:08:09- It also incorporated - several chimneys.
0:08:09 > 0:08:13- The front of this property - has changed very little.
0:08:14 > 0:08:19- The windows are in such good - condition, they can't be original.
0:08:19 > 0:08:22- You're wrong - they are original.
0:08:22 > 0:08:26- Only one of the windows - in the whole house isn't original.
0:08:26 > 0:08:30- The sash window - with the yellow bricks around it.
0:08:31 > 0:08:33- All the other windows are original.
0:08:33 > 0:08:37- The chimneys seem stunted, - considering the age of the house.
0:08:38 > 0:08:40- Yes, they're not tall - for a Tudor house.
0:08:41 > 0:08:46- The family chose to demonstrate - its wealth through the huge windows.
0:08:46 > 0:08:49- It looks like a modern house - for its period.
0:08:49 > 0:08:53- The windows - were the family's status symbols.
0:09:05 > 0:09:09- It's unusual to enter a manor house - through the front door...
0:09:09 > 0:09:12- ..and step straight into a kitchen.
0:09:12 > 0:09:16- The fireplace suggests - it was originally a kitchen.
0:09:16 > 0:09:20- The huge room next to this - was the hall, as it were.
0:09:20 > 0:09:23- This is a cosy, comfortable room.
0:09:23 > 0:09:27- Life here in 16th century was - a world away from hall house life.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31- Most members of the gentry - lived in hall houses...
0:09:31 > 0:09:35- ..but here you have huge windows - and big fireplaces.
0:09:36 > 0:09:41- You could heat a room like this - and this was the modern way of life.
0:09:42 > 0:09:45- Which features firmly place this - in the 16th century?
0:09:45 > 0:09:49- Many things here - date back to the late 16th century.
0:09:49 > 0:09:51- The excellent windows...
0:09:51 > 0:09:55- ..and the stone arch - leading to the staircase.
0:09:55 > 0:09:58- The stairs curl above the fireplace.
0:09:58 > 0:10:01- It's a feature of Glamorganshire.
0:10:01 > 0:10:04- There's some plasterwork - in the parlour...
0:10:05 > 0:10:11- ..bearing the Tudor rose and - the letters ER - Elizabeth Regina.
0:10:11 > 0:10:16- This family who lived here used - Tudor symbols all over the house.
0:10:19 > 0:10:21- Judging by the size of the house...
0:10:22 > 0:10:25- ..how important - were its original owners?
0:10:25 > 0:10:30- The Tubervilles were probably - the most powerful family in the area.
0:10:30 > 0:10:32- They owned a lot of land.
0:10:32 > 0:10:35- This house - demonstrated their status.
0:10:35 > 0:10:38- The village is called Sutton, - after Sutton Manor.
0:11:01 > 0:11:03- This is a spectacular staircase.
0:11:04 > 0:11:06- I assume it's the main staircase.
0:11:07 > 0:11:10- Yes. The oak work - was done by a talented carpenter.
0:11:11 > 0:11:15- The second staircase - curls above the fireplace...
0:11:15 > 0:11:19- ..and the third staircase - is at the rear of the house.
0:11:22 > 0:11:24- This house dates from a time...
0:11:25 > 0:11:29- ..when the owners welcomed - the public into their bedchambers.
0:11:30 > 0:11:33- Yes - that's why the staircase - is so well made...
0:11:34 > 0:11:37- ..and why the first floor fireplaces - are so fancy.
0:11:37 > 0:11:41- One still has - the original Tudor plaster.
0:11:41 > 0:11:45- It's a simple design but the fact - it's on the first floor...
0:11:46 > 0:11:49- ..suggests that - people socialized up there.
0:12:10 > 0:12:15- How difficult is it to find - houses like this in Glamorganshire?
0:12:16 > 0:12:20- It isn't difficult because - the farmland has always been good.
0:12:20 > 0:12:23- If the land is good, - there is normally money.
0:12:23 > 0:12:26- That's why there are - old houses here.
0:12:28 > 0:12:29- .
0:12:33 > 0:12:33- 888
0:12:33 > 0:12:35- 888- - 888
0:12:38 > 0:12:41- Welcome back to Glamorganshire.
0:12:41 > 0:12:44- This house was called - Walterston Fawr...
0:12:44 > 0:12:47- ..until Non Evans, - its current owner...
0:12:48 > 0:12:50- ..changed it to Trewallter Fawr.
0:13:00 > 0:13:04- A lot of people - thought we were mad to move here.
0:13:05 > 0:13:08- Everyone said - it was in the middle of nowhere.
0:13:08 > 0:13:11- They didn't know - why I wanted to live here.
0:13:11 > 0:13:14- It isn't far from anywhere, - of course.
0:13:15 > 0:13:18- There's a special feel - to this house.
0:13:18 > 0:13:23- The first time I set foot in it, - I knew this is where I wanted to be.
0:13:35 > 0:13:40- Trewallter Fawr shares its name - with the village in which it stands.
0:13:40 > 0:13:43- Yes. It was built - in the late Tudor era.
0:13:43 > 0:13:48- It was built around the time of - the death of Elizabeth I in 1603.
0:13:48 > 0:13:52- We've moved down the social ladder - from the last house.
0:13:52 > 0:13:54- This is a large farmhouse.
0:13:54 > 0:13:56- It's a middle-class house.
0:13:56 > 0:14:00- The windows are the same style - as the ones in Sutton Manor.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03- Yes, but the design is different.
0:14:03 > 0:14:07- You enter the house - and walk into a small lobby...
0:14:08 > 0:14:12- ..which faces the side of the chimney - above the front door.
0:14:12 > 0:14:14- That's unusual.
0:14:15 > 0:14:19- You see houses like this in - Montgomeryshire, around Welshpool.
0:14:19 > 0:14:22- These houses are rare in this area.
0:14:22 > 0:14:24- The floor plan is simple.
0:14:24 > 0:14:28- There are two units to it - - a large room here and another there.
0:14:29 > 0:14:31- Both rooms have huge fireplaces.
0:14:42 > 0:14:46- Considering the age of the house, - this room is very big.
0:14:47 > 0:14:51- Yes, it's a lovely room but - I think it was originally two rooms.
0:14:52 > 0:14:56- This beam suggests there was - a wooden partition here.
0:14:57 > 0:15:02- It's only chamfered on one side, - so there may have been a wall here.
0:15:03 > 0:15:06- Alterations were made - to this house in 1725.
0:15:06 > 0:15:10- We know the date because - it's carved into a windowsill.
0:15:10 > 0:15:13- Thomas Richard - lived here at the time.
0:15:13 > 0:15:18- The iron spit above the fireplace - is probably an example of his work.
0:15:18 > 0:15:21- The front oven - was also his handiwork.
0:15:21 > 0:15:23- It's a stylish house...
0:15:23 > 0:15:28- ..and the materials which create - that style came from local quarries.
0:15:28 > 0:15:33- Yes, especially the windowsills - at the front of the house.
0:15:33 > 0:15:37- Here we see black limestone, - which is very unusual.
0:15:37 > 0:15:40- Iolo Morganwg, who lived locally...
0:15:41 > 0:15:45- ..said when this was polished, - it looked like Kilkenny marble.
0:15:45 > 0:15:51- That's probably why Thomas Richard - carved his name in the limestone.
0:15:53 > 0:15:58- Did you feel someone had already - done a lot of work to the house?
0:15:59 > 0:16:03- Yes, but there was also - a lot of work still to be done.
0:16:03 > 0:16:08- The windows leaked and there was - no central heating system here.
0:16:09 > 0:16:12- A lot of work needed to be done - to the property.
0:16:14 > 0:16:18- You must make it practical - to live in a house such as this.
0:16:19 > 0:16:25- For example, I should have - a massive front door key.
0:16:26 > 0:16:30- It was impractical - to carry a huge key around with me.
0:16:30 > 0:16:35- We thought long and hard about - fitting a Yale lock in the door.
0:16:35 > 0:16:38- It's important to be sensitive..
0:16:38 > 0:16:41- ..and strike the right balance.
0:16:54 > 0:16:59- This is the lobby you mentioned, - past the front door on the left.
0:16:59 > 0:17:01- Just before we go in...
0:17:02 > 0:17:06- ..if you look here, you can see - how big the fireplace was originally.
0:17:07 > 0:17:12- This was the side of the mantel but - the fireplace has been made smaller.
0:17:12 > 0:17:16- There was a mantel beam here - and there was more depth to it.
0:17:16 > 0:17:18- This must have been a kitchen.
0:17:19 > 0:17:24- This lovely settle probably - dates back to Thomas Richard's time.
0:17:25 > 0:17:30- It's hard to date this house because - many of the details come from 1725.
0:17:30 > 0:17:37- Things such as these beams - are typical of 17th century design.
0:17:38 > 0:17:42- The stopped chamfers, the patterns - on the sides of the beams...
0:17:43 > 0:17:45- ..are typical of the 17th century.
0:17:45 > 0:17:50- There are primitive finger marks - in the plasterwork over here.
0:17:50 > 0:17:53- Again, - this is typical 17th century work.
0:17:53 > 0:17:59- The settle was cut into the ceiling, - which means it's not original.
0:17:59 > 0:18:02- Settles were fashionable in 1725...
0:18:03 > 0:18:08- ..so this part of the house was here - before the days of Thomas Richard.
0:18:09 > 0:18:13- This shape of staircase - is typical of Glamorganshire.
0:18:13 > 0:18:16- These are unusual - in that the treads are wood.
0:18:16 > 0:18:22- Thomas Richard added the wood to - make the stone steps less primitive.
0:18:35 > 0:18:39- Can you foresee a time when - you'd want to move away from here?
0:18:39 > 0:18:40- In a box, hopefully.
0:18:41 > 0:18:44- There's plenty of wood here - to make that box!
0:18:50 > 0:18:53- That was another lovely house, Greg.
0:18:53 > 0:18:56- Yes, it's great to see - the original features.
0:18:57 > 0:19:00- It suits modern living, - 400 years after it was built!
0:19:00 > 0:19:04- The next house - was designed for modern life.
0:19:04 > 0:19:08- The Red House, in Penarth, - was built in around 1900.
0:19:15 > 0:19:19- This is called The Red House - but it doesn't look very red to me.
0:19:20 > 0:19:22- No and it never has been red.
0:19:22 > 0:19:26- There's a good reason - for this being called The Red House.
0:19:26 > 0:19:31- It was named after the home of - William Morris, the famous designer.
0:19:31 > 0:19:35- Architects did it to link themselves - to Morris's work...
0:19:35 > 0:19:38- ..and to the Arts & Crafts movement.
0:19:38 > 0:19:42- This design includes - several Arts & Crafts ideas.
0:19:43 > 0:19:46- Who designed it - and why build it in Penarth?
0:19:46 > 0:19:51- This was the home of the important - Welsh architect, John Coates Carter.
0:19:52 > 0:19:56- He built is for himself - and his wife, who was Swiss.
0:19:56 > 0:19:59- There are clear Alpine touches here.
0:20:00 > 0:20:04- These pillars play a prominent part - in the design.
0:20:05 > 0:20:07- Yes, - there's a mixture of styles here.
0:20:07 > 0:20:12- The combination of white work and - the red bricks is Queen Anne style.
0:20:13 > 0:20:17- Queen Anne style houses - were popular in 1900.
0:20:17 > 0:20:20- The leadwork on the roof - is striking.
0:20:21 > 0:20:26- John Coates Carter used similar - ideas at Caldey Island Abbey.
0:20:26 > 0:20:30- Here too we see pillars, - leadwork on the roof and a balcony.
0:20:30 > 0:20:33- This is a Spanish-looking balcony.
0:20:33 > 0:20:38- The Arts & Crafts priorities - were to respect craftsmanship...
0:20:38 > 0:20:40- ..and to use the best materials.
0:20:56 > 0:21:01- We've been in the garden - and seen the house's best side.
0:21:05 > 0:21:08- This is the front door, - at the rear of the house.
0:21:08 > 0:21:13- This porch is structured in such - a way that it meets the front door.
0:21:13 > 0:21:17- You weave your way - from the door to the main house!
0:21:17 > 0:21:20- Yes, it's a familiar - Arts & Crafts idea.
0:21:21 > 0:21:26- They created houses which looked - like they evolved over centuries.
0:21:26 > 0:21:28- That's why nothing was simple.
0:21:28 > 0:21:33- They wanted to see several gables, - turrets and a variety of windows.
0:21:34 > 0:21:39- They wanted people to think - the house had always stood there.
0:21:39 > 0:21:43- It's nice to see the plans for - the house as you enter the property.
0:21:44 > 0:21:48- Many John Coates Carter - original plans have survived.
0:21:48 > 0:21:52- Several are kept - at the Victoria & Albert in London.
0:21:52 > 0:21:55- These plans - explain the layout of the house.
0:21:55 > 0:22:00- The front of the house - was the service area.
0:22:00 > 0:22:04- It included the kitchen, - the bathroom and one study.
0:22:04 > 0:22:09- Everything happened on the other - side, at the front... or the rear!
0:22:09 > 0:22:12- The hallway - underlines what you've just said.
0:22:13 > 0:22:18- All the braces - are on the backs of the doors.
0:22:19 > 0:22:22- Yes. When you walk in, - you can't see the stairs.
0:22:22 > 0:22:28- You can see them from the garden - but not from what was the front door.
0:22:29 > 0:22:33- The heart shape is an icon - of the Arts & Crafts movement.
0:22:46 > 0:22:50- It's significant that the doors - leading into this huge room...
0:22:50 > 0:22:54- ..face the glass doors - which lead to the garden.
0:22:54 > 0:22:58- Yes, the garden - was an important part of the design.
0:22:59 > 0:23:03- People thought fresh air - was important to their health.
0:23:03 > 0:23:07- That's why there are windows - all along this room.
0:23:07 > 0:23:11- The doors to the garden - would have been open all summer.
0:23:11 > 0:23:16- The shape of the room is unusual. - It's the width of the house.
0:23:16 > 0:23:19- We're looking at a house - built in around 1900...
0:23:19 > 0:23:23- ..and this is an unusual room - for that period.
0:23:23 > 0:23:26- It's an example of open plan living.
0:23:26 > 0:23:31- It's completely different from - terraced houses built in 1900.
0:23:42 > 0:23:49- The panels, woodwork and fireplaces - remind us of the Gothic period...
0:23:49 > 0:23:53- ..but it is, in fact, - a very modern design.
0:23:53 > 0:23:58- It represented a new lifestyle - but some of the details are antiques.
0:23:59 > 0:24:04- The owner collected German medieval - locks from the 17th century...
0:24:06 > 0:24:11- ..and he also collected Swiss locks - and fitted them on the doors here.
0:24:12 > 0:24:16- Maybe he thought - he lived in medieval times...
0:24:17 > 0:24:19- ..but he designed - a very modern house.
0:24:40 > 0:24:42- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:24:43 > 0:24:43- .