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0:00:07 > 0:00:11- Every island - transports you to another world.
0:00:13 > 0:00:17- Where natural life and the nature - of life have evolved...
0:00:18 > 0:00:20- ..in their own unique way.
0:00:22 > 0:00:26- But due to the pressures of the - modern world, the tide is turning.
0:00:29 > 0:00:31- For better...
0:00:31 > 0:00:33- ..and for worse.
0:00:36 > 0:00:40- In this series, we meet islanders - all over the world.
0:00:44 > 0:00:48- Those who are proud of their - history, who cling to their customs.
0:00:51 > 0:00:53- Those who are patriotic.
0:00:56 > 0:00:59- But the globalization - of the world...
0:00:59 > 0:01:03- ..has made it impossible - for islanders to stand alone.
0:01:06 > 0:01:08- In many ways, these shores...
0:01:09 > 0:01:12- ..are leading the battle - to save the planet.
0:01:13 > 0:01:17- The island's fate - is critical to us all.
0:01:37 > 0:01:42- The unique Caribbean island of Cuba - has always enchanted me.
0:01:49 > 0:01:51- Cuba is the country of Castro...
0:01:51 > 0:01:55- ..communism, cocktails, - cigars and Cadillacs.
0:01:55 > 0:02:00- It has an interesting history, - and the past can be seen everywhere.
0:02:00 > 0:02:04- But time doesn't stand still - - not even in Cuba.
0:02:04 > 0:02:05- Vamos.
0:02:12 > 0:02:14- I've always wanted to come here.
0:02:15 > 0:02:18- I love its history - and I speak Spanish.
0:02:19 > 0:02:21- I've long been a fan of its music.
0:02:22 > 0:02:24- Muy bien! Muy bien!
0:02:24 > 0:02:29- The dream of an equal, socialist - society has always interested me.
0:02:33 > 0:02:36- But I've heard - that Cuba is changing.
0:02:36 > 0:02:39- Is the old way of life disappearing?
0:02:39 > 0:02:42- Are the old heroes less popular - these days?
0:02:42 > 0:02:47- Over there on that hill - is where Che Guevara lived in Cuba.
0:02:47 > 0:02:50- Che Guevara, Fidel...
0:02:50 > 0:02:52- ..Raul.
0:02:52 > 0:02:56- The men who brought communism - to Cuba are still familiar.
0:02:58 > 0:03:02- But more than half a century - has passed since their heyday.
0:03:06 > 0:03:10- Fidel Castro - led a socialist revolt in Cuba...
0:03:10 > 0:03:12- ..in 1959...
0:03:12 > 0:03:16- ..turning it into the world's - only communist island.
0:03:20 > 0:03:24- Since gaining power, Fidel - has withstood the world's efforts...
0:03:25 > 0:03:27- ..to overthrow him.
0:03:27 > 0:03:31- Many Cubans - are still faithful to him...
0:03:31 > 0:03:33- ..and his vision.
0:03:38 > 0:03:42- I've come to meet the people - who are products of that vision.
0:03:43 > 0:03:48- People who, despite every - difficulty, are trying to excel.
0:03:50 > 0:03:53- Those who are true to their faith, - even in adversity.
0:03:56 > 0:04:00- Although Fidel - is still regarded as a hero...
0:04:00 > 0:04:03- ..his brother, Raul, - now leads Cuba into the future.
0:04:05 > 0:04:08- He promises to reform the regime...
0:04:08 > 0:04:10- ..and improve living standards.
0:04:11 > 0:04:15- But could the compromise - destroy communism in Cuba?
0:04:18 > 0:04:22- These days, the island - welcomes overseas tourists.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26- Our money revives the economy.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33- But our presence here - is also a problem.
0:04:34 > 0:04:38- Capitalism, which has been - a dirty word for decades...
0:04:38 > 0:04:40- ..is starting to emerge.
0:04:41 > 0:04:46- Rather than being stuck in the past, - is Cuba about to change for good?
0:04:46 > 0:04:48- And in haste?
0:05:01 > 0:05:04- Havana is one of the liveliest - cities in the world.
0:05:06 > 0:05:10- It's hot here, and pretty, - and it's full of surprises.
0:05:14 > 0:05:19- There is culture and history - on every street corner.
0:05:20 > 0:05:25- But in my opinion, the best thing - about Havana is its people.
0:05:27 > 0:05:30- They love their country...
0:05:30 > 0:05:33- ..and make the most of their lives.
0:05:38 > 0:05:41- Sometimes they smile - and often they dance.
0:05:46 > 0:05:51- During the past half a century...
0:05:51 > 0:05:56- ..they've also had to be inventive - to overcome difficulties.
0:06:00 > 0:06:05- While some have praised Fidel - for introducing communism...
0:06:06 > 0:06:08- ..and stability to Cuba...
0:06:08 > 0:06:10- ..others have shunned him.
0:06:16 > 0:06:21- The campaign against him is led - by the United States of America.
0:06:23 > 0:06:27- Florida is only 100 miles away - in that direction.
0:06:27 > 0:06:31- But the politics of America and Cuba - are poles apart.
0:06:32 > 0:06:36- For half a century, - America has tried to destroy Castro.
0:06:36 > 0:06:40- But despite their efforts, - they have failed up to now.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46- America imposed an embargo - on Cuba...
0:06:46 > 0:06:50- ..and tried to thwart - international trade links.
0:06:53 > 0:06:57- In the beginning, Fidel found - a way around the embargo problem.
0:06:59 > 0:07:03- He established links with the USSR, - America's arch-rival...
0:07:04 > 0:07:08- ..relying on the Soviets to supply - fuel, food and medical supplies.
0:07:08 > 0:07:11- Everything the islanders needed.
0:07:13 > 0:07:16- Then their lives changed.
0:07:20 > 0:07:23- In 1991, the Soviet Union collapsed.
0:07:26 > 0:07:29- A black cloud - descended over Cuba's economy.
0:07:29 > 0:07:34- It was the dawning of a new era - referred to as "Periodo Especial".
0:07:35 > 0:07:38- A special period - in the island's history.
0:07:43 > 0:07:47- Without basic necessities from - Russia, goods were in short supply.
0:07:47 > 0:07:52- The economy collapsed - and the islanders faced a famine.
0:07:59 > 0:08:03- Fidel acknowledged he would have - to veer in a new direction.
0:08:03 > 0:08:10- He invited tourists into Cuba - to spend their wealth.
0:08:12 > 0:08:14- For the first time in centuries...
0:08:14 > 0:08:19- ..islanders came face to face - with people from the mainland.
0:08:19 > 0:08:24- But how could Cuba cater - for tourists and their foreign ways?
0:08:28 > 0:08:31- There was a shortage of restaurants - in Havana.
0:08:34 > 0:08:38- So Fidel gave people special - permission to open restaurants...
0:08:39 > 0:08:42- ..known as paladares - in their own homes.
0:08:45 > 0:08:48- Elizabeth Mantero - and her son, Lazaro...
0:08:49 > 0:08:51- ..took advantage - of the opportunity.
0:08:51 > 0:08:55- In 1995, they transformed - their front room...
0:08:55 > 0:09:00- ..and opened a restaurant - called Los Amigos.
0:09:00 > 0:09:02- THEY SPEAK SPANISH
0:09:06 > 0:09:10- Elizabeth says that the menu - offers traditional Cuban food.
0:09:10 > 0:09:12- Chicken, beans and rice.
0:09:12 > 0:09:16- But when Los Amigos first opened...
0:09:16 > 0:09:20- ..Cuba was still reeling - from the Special Period.
0:09:22 > 0:09:27- It was difficult for Elizabeth - and Lazaro to feed themselves...
0:09:27 > 0:09:29- ..let alone customers.
0:09:31 > 0:09:36- During this time, - Lazaro lost four stone in weight.
0:09:42 > 0:09:45- Today, the situation - has improved greatly.
0:09:47 > 0:09:51- But there are still restrictions - when buying ingredients.
0:09:52 > 0:09:57- The government dictates that - she shops in state-owned markets...
0:09:58 > 0:10:01- ..although vegetables - are far more expensive here.
0:10:06 > 0:10:08- Elizabeth - also has to buy meat wisely.
0:10:10 > 0:10:12- She's only allowed pork and chicken.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18- Every cow in Cuba - belongs to the government.
0:10:18 > 0:10:21- Steak is only served - in state-run restaurants.
0:10:24 > 0:10:27- If Elizabeth were to serve beef - at Los Amigos...
0:10:28 > 0:10:30- ..she could be sent to prison.
0:10:33 > 0:10:38- But at least nowadays she can buy - a variety of fresh ingredients...
0:10:38 > 0:10:41- ..and cook a wide range of dishes.
0:10:47 > 0:10:50- Chicken soup - is today's dish of the day...
0:10:54 > 0:10:57- ..along with the biggest avocado - I've ever seen.
0:10:57 > 0:10:59- Es muy grande!
0:10:59 > 0:11:02- To make things - even more difficult...
0:11:02 > 0:11:06- ..the government prohibits paladares - from advertising.
0:11:07 > 0:11:12- It is only by word of mouth that the - restaurant attracts its customers.
0:11:12 > 0:11:16- The service and the kitchen - must always be at their best.
0:11:23 > 0:11:25- Luckily, I'm not cooking.
0:11:31 > 0:11:34- There's always a queue - waiting for a table at Los Amigos.
0:11:35 > 0:11:39- People who are keen to taste - authentic home-cooked food.
0:11:43 > 0:11:48- But not every business on the island - is restricted by the government.
0:11:52 > 0:11:56- A few hours from Havana by car, - a different kind of Cuba awaits me.
0:11:58 > 0:12:01- The rules are different here...
0:12:01 > 0:12:03- ..and it's a different world.
0:12:06 > 0:12:06- .
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0:12:15 > 0:12:20- The coastal resort of Varadero - lies 130 kilometres east of Havana.
0:12:25 > 0:12:30- Every year, over a million people - visit its wonderful beaches.
0:12:31 > 0:12:34- Though I'm not a fan - of sunbathing...
0:12:34 > 0:12:36- ..I can see the appeal.
0:12:36 > 0:12:42- If you like beach holidays, - then Varadero would be paradise.
0:12:45 > 0:12:48- Beyond the beaches, - you'll find another reason...
0:12:49 > 0:12:51- ..for Varadero's popularity.
0:12:54 > 0:12:58- This is where Cuba's - grandest hotels are situated.
0:13:01 > 0:13:05- The all-inclusive hotels - are owned by foreign companies.
0:13:09 > 0:13:12- But Cuba's government - owns the land...
0:13:12 > 0:13:16- ..and charges the hoteliers - a high price.
0:13:17 > 0:13:23- Capitalist schemes such as this - help to sustain communism in Cuba.
0:13:26 > 0:13:30- Without the revenue from tourism...
0:13:30 > 0:13:33- ..the island's economy - would collapse.
0:13:35 > 0:13:37- Beyond the luxury hotels...
0:13:40 > 0:13:43- ..is a very different community.
0:13:46 > 0:13:50- In the old town, the residents - go about their everyday lives.
0:13:54 > 0:13:58- They receive all kinds of benefits - from the government.
0:14:01 > 0:14:04- Ration shops provide the essentials.
0:14:04 > 0:14:07- Bread, sugar and fresh eggs.
0:14:07 > 0:14:10- Supplies to keep the wolf - from the door.
0:14:13 > 0:14:18- Tourists rarely see this side - of Castro's paradise.
0:14:18 > 0:14:23- The ordinary townspeople aren't - allowed into the grand hotels.
0:14:23 > 0:14:26- Security guards patrol the gates...
0:14:26 > 0:14:29- ..and keep the rich and poor apart.
0:14:33 > 0:14:37- But some people have found a way - around the rules.
0:14:37 > 0:14:43- One man who's building a new future - for himself is Rafael Calderon.
0:14:45 > 0:14:50- He has been granted a special - licence to sell crafts to tourists.
0:14:57 > 0:15:01- Rafael comes to the beach daily - to make money selling souvenirs.
0:15:04 > 0:15:06- Or, in this case, to show me...
0:15:07 > 0:15:10- ..how to make a hat - from palm leaves.
0:15:14 > 0:15:15- It's not easy.
0:15:16 > 0:15:18- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:15:23 > 0:15:28- Rafael has practised his craft - since he was five years old.
0:15:33 > 0:15:38- A native of Varadero, he remembers - it as a fishing village.
0:15:38 > 0:15:42- He tells me - the place has changed significantly.
0:15:45 > 0:15:49- Varadero is now Cuba's - prime destination for tourists.
0:15:50 > 0:15:52- THEY SPEAK SPANISH
0:15:54 > 0:15:59- People come here from Europe, South - America, Italy, Britain, Germany.
0:15:59 > 0:16:01- From all over.
0:16:01 > 0:16:07- Despite the change, Rafael is glad - that he's able to earn a living.
0:16:07 > 0:16:11- People like him - keep the tourists happy...
0:16:13 > 0:16:17- ..and keep Cuba's economy afloat.
0:16:19 > 0:16:23- But I'm looking for something other - than the luxury of Varadero.
0:16:25 > 0:16:27- MAN SINGS IN SPANISH
0:16:33 > 0:16:38- I want to experience the cultured - Cuba I've heard so much about.
0:16:41 > 0:16:44- Back in the capital, Havana, - I find it...
0:16:44 > 0:16:48- ..around every corner.
0:16:53 > 0:16:56- Cuba has a unique - musical tradition.
0:16:56 > 0:17:02- The city echoes to songs and rhythms - from Africa and Spain.
0:17:04 > 0:17:07- In Cuba, people dance - with incredible vigour.
0:17:18 > 0:17:20- They can also move gracefully...
0:17:21 > 0:17:23- ..and with discipline.
0:17:24 > 0:17:26- GENTLE PIANO MUSIC
0:17:27 > 0:17:31- Classical ballet is - an important part of Cuban culture.
0:17:36 > 0:17:41- As with many other things, - ballet came from the Soviet Union.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45- Ordinary folk - have embraced the dance.
0:17:50 > 0:17:56- Alberto Lorenzo is a teacher - at the Cuban National Ballet School.
0:17:57 > 0:18:01- It's the largest academy of its kind - in the world.
0:18:03 > 0:18:05- The standard is exceptionally high.
0:18:08 > 0:18:13- Alberto tells me that Cuban people - are proud of their ballet tradition.
0:18:13 > 0:18:16- This is the island's - most important art.
0:18:16 > 0:18:20- It's one of the few things in Cuba - that can be exported.
0:18:24 > 0:18:26- Alberto is a former pupil.
0:18:28 > 0:18:32- He started training at the age - of 21, which is old in ballet terms.
0:18:33 > 0:18:37- Nowadays, most children begin - at nine years of age.
0:18:38 > 0:18:43- The academy is special because the - girls and boys start at a young age.
0:18:49 > 0:18:53- Dance isn't the only subject taught.
0:18:53 > 0:18:57- Pupils also receive - academic tuition.
0:18:57 > 0:18:59- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:19:02 > 0:19:04- They look so lovely.
0:19:04 > 0:19:07- There's a contented atmosphere here.
0:19:07 > 0:19:10- It's a pleasant environment.
0:19:13 > 0:19:15- I think we'd better go.
0:19:18 > 0:19:21- With dedication, - these children will go far.
0:19:28 > 0:19:32- One boy who's reaching for the stars - is Victor Estevez.
0:19:36 > 0:19:39- The 17-year-old is a gifted pupil.
0:19:39 > 0:19:42- Originally from Camaguey - in the south...
0:19:43 > 0:19:47- ..his family persuaded him - to move 500km to Havana to study.
0:19:52 > 0:19:57- He tells me that the idea came - from his uncle, a former dancer.
0:19:57 > 0:20:00- He recognized Victor's potential.
0:20:06 > 0:20:11- Victor is just one of the hundreds - of boys studying at the academy.
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- In Cuba, there is no stigma attached - to male ballet dancers.
0:20:20 > 0:20:23- It's even considered macho here.
0:20:27 > 0:20:32- It's little wonder when pain - is an integral part of the process.
0:20:32 > 0:20:35- As I find out for myself.
0:20:38 > 0:20:42- Alberto has persuaded me - to have a ballet lesson with Victor.
0:20:45 > 0:20:49- I had ballet lessons as a child - but I've never worn pointes.
0:20:49 > 0:20:51- It's a shock to the system.
0:20:55 > 0:20:56- Ouch!
0:20:57 > 0:20:59- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:21:02 > 0:21:04- It's a real sacrifice!
0:21:04 > 0:21:06- Ouch!
0:21:08 > 0:21:13- Sore feet are just one thing Victor - has to suffer if he is to succeed.
0:21:18 > 0:21:22- The academy's halls of residence - are located five miles away.
0:21:24 > 0:21:27- This is Victor's home - for the time being.
0:21:28 > 0:21:30- It looks more like an army barracks.
0:21:35 > 0:21:37- After being woken at 5.00am...
0:21:37 > 0:21:41- ..a nurse takes the temperature - of every pupil...
0:21:42 > 0:21:45- ..to make sure - they're all fit and healthy.
0:21:47 > 0:21:52- The state pays for the pupils' food, - clothes and accommodation...
0:21:52 > 0:21:56- ..but it's inevitable - that Victor misses his parents.
0:21:58 > 0:22:00- They are only able to visit him...
0:22:01 > 0:22:04- ..during the ballet festival, - but he returns home...
0:22:05 > 0:22:07- ..whenever he gets the chance.
0:22:12 > 0:22:14- After travelling across the city...
0:22:15 > 0:22:19- ..Victor usually starts his lessons - at 6.00am...
0:22:19 > 0:22:21- ..six days a week.
0:22:23 > 0:22:27- Today, he faces - a different challenge.
0:22:32 > 0:22:34- He's giving me a ballet lesson.
0:22:43 > 0:22:45- PIANO MUSIC
0:23:11 > 0:23:12- Very good.
0:23:13 > 0:23:15- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:23:17 > 0:23:21- I'm as red as a beetroot - after only a few minutes...
0:23:21 > 0:23:24- ..in the sweltering heat - of the studio.
0:23:24 > 0:23:27- But Victor dances - up to eight hours a day.
0:23:27 > 0:23:29- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:23:32 > 0:23:36- He says he enjoys every minute, - and that he loves ballet.
0:23:37 > 0:23:39- For him, it doesn't feel like work.
0:23:42 > 0:23:45- He has another reason - for persevering.
0:23:51 > 0:23:54- If he succeeds - as a professional dancer...
0:23:54 > 0:23:57- ..he'll get to travel the world.
0:24:02 > 0:24:06- There's no doubt - that Cubans lack material wealth...
0:24:07 > 0:24:12- ..but there are advantages - to living in a communist state.
0:24:13 > 0:24:17- In those areas, - Cuba leads by example.
0:24:19 > 0:24:19- .
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0:24:27 > 0:24:31- For 50 years, the world has punished - Cubans for daring to live...
0:24:32 > 0:24:34- ..under a communist regime.
0:24:38 > 0:24:43- The USA's strict sanctions - have restricted Cuba's economy.
0:24:45 > 0:24:50- People can scarcely afford imported - goods we take for granted...
0:24:50 > 0:24:52- ..from shampoo...
0:24:52 > 0:24:54- ..to toilet paper.
0:24:58 > 0:25:03- But there's one service - on which Cubans can truly rely.
0:25:03 > 0:25:07- Although there is sometimes - a shortage of goods...
0:25:07 > 0:25:10- ..there is never a shortage - of doctors.
0:25:10 > 0:25:15- There are more doctors per capita - in Cuba than in any other country.
0:25:17 > 0:25:20- Cuba can be very proud - of its health service.
0:25:23 > 0:25:25- Fidel is to thank for that.
0:25:26 > 0:25:29- Before the revolt in 1959...
0:25:29 > 0:25:33- ..very few islanders - received any form of health care.
0:25:35 > 0:25:40- Fidel established a health service - that was free to everyone.
0:25:42 > 0:25:45- In Cuba today, the infant - mortality rate is lower...
0:25:45 > 0:25:48- ..and life expectancy higher...
0:25:49 > 0:25:51- ..than in the USA.
0:25:55 > 0:25:58- Kania Ramos is a doctor - at Abel Santamaria...
0:25:59 > 0:26:02- ..a hospital located - in the Pinar del Rio province.
0:26:06 > 0:26:11- Though she earns less money - than a taxi driver in Cuba...
0:26:11 > 0:26:13- ..Kania is pleased to work here.
0:26:14 > 0:26:16- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:26:20 > 0:26:24- She tells me that many - family members are doctors too.
0:26:24 > 0:26:29- Being able to treat patients is what - gives her the greatest satisfaction.
0:26:29 > 0:26:33- She says it's wonderful - to see them recover.
0:26:36 > 0:26:38- The hospital also offers...
0:26:38 > 0:26:42- ..alternatives - to conventional medicine.
0:26:43 > 0:26:46- In the consulting rooms...
0:26:46 > 0:26:49- ..unusual practices - are being performed.
0:26:52 > 0:26:55- Kania has given me - special permission to watch.
0:26:58 > 0:27:00- Buenos dias.
0:27:00 > 0:27:03- The patient - who's come to see Kania...
0:27:04 > 0:27:07- ..has been suffering - with stomach pains.
0:27:07 > 0:27:09- Kania is choosing to treat her...
0:27:10 > 0:27:14- ..with a herbal remedy - rather than conventional drugs.
0:27:14 > 0:27:18- The nurse has lit - what looks like a giant cigar...
0:27:19 > 0:27:22- ..and is holding it - above the patient's stomach.
0:27:24 > 0:27:26- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:27:30 > 0:27:33- According to Kania, - the cigar has special herbs...
0:27:34 > 0:27:37- ..that when held - above certain parts of the body...
0:27:37 > 0:27:41- ..have the same sort of effect - as acupuncture.
0:27:41 > 0:27:43- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:27:48 > 0:27:52- Many of these treatments - originally come from China.
0:27:54 > 0:27:59- Traditional Cuban medicine - is also becoming more popular...
0:28:01 > 0:28:05- ..due to the adverse effects - of the Periodo Especial...
0:28:05 > 0:28:07- ..the Special Period.
0:28:10 > 0:28:12- Up until 20 years ago...
0:28:13 > 0:28:16- ..the Soviet Union supplied Cuba - with all its drugs.
0:28:18 > 0:28:21- In return, - the island exported sugar to Russia.
0:28:23 > 0:28:29- But when the USSR collapsed in 1991, - Cuba's drugs supplies disappeared.
0:28:33 > 0:28:38- The islanders had to heal themselves - with traditional methods.
0:28:43 > 0:28:46- These days, the province - of Pinar del Rio...
0:28:47 > 0:28:49- ..is famous for growing tobacco.
0:28:50 > 0:28:53- But medicinal plants - are also grown here.
0:28:57 > 0:29:01- The government - has established farms here...
0:29:01 > 0:29:05- ..to supply drugs - to the health service.
0:29:10 > 0:29:14- This organic farm - stretches over 200 acres...
0:29:15 > 0:29:19- ..and grows all kinds - of medicinal crops...
0:29:19 > 0:29:22- ..to supply - the Abel Santamaria hospital.
0:29:23 > 0:29:26- These plants - sustain the health service...
0:29:26 > 0:29:30- ..and heal patients throughout Cuba.
0:29:31 > 0:29:33- THEY SPEAK SPANISH
0:29:34 > 0:29:38- Back at the hospital, Kania writes - a prescription for the patient.
0:29:39 > 0:29:42- Medicine made from the leaves - of the guava tree.
0:29:46 > 0:29:49- Kania is confident it will work.
0:29:52 > 0:29:55- Medicinal plants - are used every day...
0:29:56 > 0:29:59- ..by almost all the doctors - at the hospital.
0:29:59 > 0:30:04- They are supplementary medicines - and even replace conventional drugs.
0:30:06 > 0:30:11- These medicines aren't only used - in the treatment of minor ailments.
0:30:11 > 0:30:14- Doctors are developing plants...
0:30:14 > 0:30:18- ..that will hopefully cure - more serious illnesses.
0:30:19 > 0:30:21- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:30:24 > 0:30:29- Kania hasn't yet treated people - with cancer and AIDS.
0:30:29 > 0:30:33- But clinical trials - are currently being carried out.
0:30:43 > 0:30:48- In the hospitals, old knowledge - is keeping modern socialism alive.
0:30:50 > 0:30:55- This isn't the only example - of past traditions being revived.
0:30:59 > 0:31:03- Across the island, - on the south-eastern coast...
0:31:03 > 0:31:06- ..lies the ancient city - of Santiago de Cuba.
0:31:09 > 0:31:11- It's a town steeped in history.
0:31:16 > 0:31:20- For a brief period - during the 11th century...
0:31:21 > 0:31:23- ..Santiago was Cuba's capital city.
0:31:24 > 0:31:27- It was colonized by the Spanish.
0:31:30 > 0:31:33- It was also conquered - by an explorer from Wales.
0:31:36 > 0:31:39- Santiago has been a strategic port - for centuries...
0:31:39 > 0:31:43- ..and battles have been fought - to take control of it.
0:31:43 > 0:31:49- One of the most well-known invaders - was a certain man from Abergavenny.
0:31:49 > 0:31:52- Captain Morgan. Cheers, Captain!
0:31:54 > 0:31:57- While offering a rum toast - to the captain...
0:31:57 > 0:32:01- ..it's worth noting - that the history is tainted.
0:32:05 > 0:32:08- The conquerors - brought slaves in tow.
0:32:08 > 0:32:12- African people, - who suffered greatly...
0:32:12 > 0:32:15- ..yet who clung - to their unique traditions.
0:32:20 > 0:32:23- Some 15km east of Santiago...
0:32:23 > 0:32:28- ..I visit a place - where African influences survive.
0:32:29 > 0:32:33- I'm in the small town of El Cobre - on a very important day.
0:32:33 > 0:32:37- Today is St Caridad's Day, - the patron saintess of Cuba.
0:32:43 > 0:32:46- There's a sense of excitement - all over town.
0:32:48 > 0:32:53- Throughout the day, visitors have - been arriving in their hundreds.
0:32:59 > 0:33:04- A devotional ceremony to worship - St Caridad takes place tonight...
0:33:04 > 0:33:09- ..the likes of which - El Cobre hasn't seen for decades.
0:33:14 > 0:33:19- At first glance, this appears to be - a typical Catholic mass.
0:33:21 > 0:33:24- But another religion - is practised here.
0:33:24 > 0:33:29- A primitive faith, firmly rooted - in Cuba's ancient past.
0:33:31 > 0:33:37- When the African slaves came here, - they knew their European masters...
0:33:37 > 0:33:41- ..would forbid them - practising their religion.
0:33:41 > 0:33:47- So they camouflaged their pagan gods - as Catholic saints...
0:33:48 > 0:33:51- ..and pretended - to join in the worship.
0:33:54 > 0:33:59- Gradually, the African and Christian - religions blended together...
0:33:59 > 0:34:03- ..to form a new religion - called Santeria.
0:34:04 > 0:34:09- For Santerian believers, the Virgin - isn't just a Catholic icon.
0:34:10 > 0:34:15- She also represents Oshun, - the goddess of water and love.
0:34:17 > 0:34:19- Yellow is Oshun's colour...
0:34:19 > 0:34:24- ..which explains the congregation's - colourful clothing.
0:34:27 > 0:34:32- Such expressions of faith - are a recent development in Cuba.
0:34:33 > 0:34:36- For half a century - following the revolt...
0:34:37 > 0:34:42- ..people were forbidden from - publicly celebrating their faith.
0:34:43 > 0:34:48- More recently, the rules - are gradually becoming more relaxed.
0:34:48 > 0:34:52- The islanders - are repossessing their faith.
0:34:56 > 0:35:01- This year, the people of El Cobre - have been granted permission...
0:35:01 > 0:35:04- ..to parade the Virgin - through the town.
0:35:07 > 0:35:12- It's an important moment, signifying - the regime's new attitude.
0:35:13 > 0:35:17- Twenty years ago, such a procession - would have been impossible.
0:35:20 > 0:35:25- Santeria believers - aren't only found in the church.
0:35:32 > 0:35:36- Abelardo Larduet is immersed - in the ancient religions.
0:35:36 > 0:35:39- Although he sometimes worships - in church...
0:35:39 > 0:35:44- ..he prefers to perform rituals - to his gods at home.
0:35:49 > 0:35:53- I'm invited to visit Abelardo at - his flat on the outskirts of town.
0:35:57 > 0:36:01- The Soviet-looking grey buildings...
0:36:01 > 0:36:04- ..remind me of Russia's - influence on Cuba.
0:36:04 > 0:36:06- Hola!
0:36:06 > 0:36:11- Despite its simple interior, - it provides shelter from the heat.
0:36:11 > 0:36:13- HE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:36:16 > 0:36:20- As well as being a babalawo, - a Santerian priest...
0:36:20 > 0:36:23- ..Abelardo is also a scholar...
0:36:23 > 0:36:26- ..specializing - in his religion's history.
0:36:28 > 0:36:33- He tells me that 70% of Cubans - believe in Santeria...
0:36:33 > 0:36:35- ..and are true to the old beliefs.
0:36:36 > 0:36:38- THUNDER ROARS
0:36:40 > 0:36:44- Hundreds of thousands of people - across the island...
0:36:45 > 0:36:47- ..worship their pagan gods.
0:36:51 > 0:36:56- People believe that Abelardo - can interpret the gods' messages...
0:36:56 > 0:36:58- ..and come to him for advice.
0:37:09 > 0:37:14- For a small fee, Abelardo reads - the spiritual message in the shells.
0:37:17 > 0:37:21- He offers his customers advice - on all kinds of matters.
0:37:21 > 0:37:23- Money, health...
0:37:23 > 0:37:25- ..and personal issues.
0:37:29 > 0:37:32- He can even foresee the future.
0:37:35 > 0:37:39- This man can look forward - to a happy and healthy life.
0:37:43 > 0:37:47- It's important that Abelardo's - predictions are accurate.
0:37:48 > 0:37:50- His reputation is at stake.
0:37:52 > 0:37:54- WOMAN SINGS
0:37:54 > 0:37:58- But there are other babalawo - who worry less about the facts...
0:37:59 > 0:38:01- ..and more about the showbiz.
0:38:05 > 0:38:09- You'll come across them - on Havana's street corners.
0:38:09 > 0:38:14- As well as predicting the future, - they'll perform complex rituals...
0:38:14 > 0:38:16- ..for a price.
0:38:16 > 0:38:20- It's a practice - that concerns Abelardo.
0:38:22 > 0:38:27- He tells me that people use Santeria - as a means of earning a living.
0:38:28 > 0:38:32- They don't embrace the faith - because it doesn't interest them.
0:38:32 > 0:38:34- WOMAN SPEAKS SPANISH
0:38:40 > 0:38:45- Santiago de Cuba is famous - for another form of performance too.
0:38:46 > 0:38:50- It's one I'm determined to savour - before I leave the city.
0:38:54 > 0:38:54- .
0:38:58 > 0:38:58- 888
0:38:58 > 0:39:00- 888- - 888
0:39:05 > 0:39:09- Santiago de Cuba is the most - musical city in the whole of Cuba.
0:39:13 > 0:39:15- This is the birthplace of son...
0:39:15 > 0:39:19- ..a fusion of African rhythms - and Spanish singing.
0:39:20 > 0:39:25- Son and salsa - are Cuba's defining sounds.
0:39:25 > 0:39:28- It can be heard - in every single tavern.
0:39:30 > 0:39:32- HE SINGS IN SPANISH
0:39:34 > 0:39:37- One of the things I love most - about this place...
0:39:38 > 0:39:41- ..is that everyone, - young and old, rich and poor...
0:39:41 > 0:39:45- ..loses themselves in the music - and the dancing.
0:39:57 > 0:40:02- Cuban people feel the music - in their bones.
0:40:03 > 0:40:06- It's wonderful to see.
0:40:15 > 0:40:17- Muy bien! Muy bien!
0:40:23 > 0:40:27- As the sun sets to the sound - of the church bells pealing...
0:40:27 > 0:40:30- ..the taste of the mojito...
0:40:30 > 0:40:31- ..makes me want to join in.
0:40:31 > 0:40:34- ..makes me want to join in.- - # Migldi, magldi, hey now now
0:40:34 > 0:40:37- # The smithy door open
0:40:37 > 0:40:40- # Migldi, magldi, hey now now
0:40:40 > 0:40:42- # And the smith - with his blackened face
0:40:43 > 0:40:47- # Migldi, magldi, hey now now
0:40:48 > 0:40:51- # At the forge, pumping the bellows.
0:40:51 > 0:40:54- # Migldi, magldi, hey now now
0:40:56 > 0:40:59- # It's a fine thing - on a long winter's night
0:40:59 > 0:41:02- # Migldi, magldi, hey now now
0:41:02 > 0:41:05- # To be the first - to get to the smithy.
0:41:05 > 0:41:07- # Migldi, magldi, hey now now
0:41:08 > 0:41:10- # When there's frost and snow - outside
0:41:11 > 0:41:15- # Migldi, magldi, hey now now
0:41:16 > 0:41:19- # The best place to be - is by the fire.
0:41:19 > 0:41:21- # Migldi, magldi, hey now now
0:41:22 > 0:41:23- And again!
0:41:23 > 0:41:26- And again!- - # Hey now now #
0:41:27 > 0:41:32- From Wales to Cuba, the old songs - are still the favourites.
0:41:36 > 0:41:42- But in Havana, music of another kind - attracts a very different audience.
0:41:46 > 0:41:51- The musicians - look like American rap artists.
0:41:51 > 0:41:53- But this is Cuba...
0:41:53 > 0:41:56- ..and as usual, there's a twist.
0:41:57 > 0:42:00- HE RAPS IN SPANISH
0:42:01 > 0:42:04- This is reggaeton, - a fusion of reggae, rap...
0:42:05 > 0:42:08- ..and Latino music - from Puerto Rico and Venezuela.
0:42:09 > 0:42:12- It has a popular following in Cuba.
0:42:13 > 0:42:15- HE RAPS IN SPANISH
0:42:17 > 0:42:23- Tonight, there's a special gig - in one of the city's nightclubs.
0:42:23 > 0:42:27- Friday night in Havana - - it's just gone midnight.
0:42:27 > 0:42:31- I'm hoping to talk to one of - the stars of reggaeton, Kola Loka.
0:42:35 > 0:42:40- These fans have paid 20 - to see Kola Loka perform.
0:42:43 > 0:42:46- That's almost a month's wages - for many Cubans.
0:42:49 > 0:42:51- HE RAPS IN SPANISH
0:42:58 > 0:43:01- But what's so special - about Kola Loka?
0:43:07 > 0:43:10- Why are people willing - to pay so much to see them?
0:43:19 > 0:43:23- The band's frontman, Yasser Puente, - agrees to talk to me.
0:43:27 > 0:43:29- He mentions a saying.
0:43:30 > 0:43:36- "You can't know where you're going - without knowing where you're from."
0:43:36 > 0:43:42- Reggaeton rhythms mixed with Cuban - music makes the band's sound unique.
0:43:42 > 0:43:45- REGGAETON MUSIC
0:43:47 > 0:43:51- It's this combination - of old and new that's so appealing.
0:43:56 > 0:44:01- Yasser tells me that the creation - of reggaeton defines the new Cuba.
0:44:07 > 0:44:09- But not everybody agrees.
0:44:12 > 0:44:16- The government believes - reggaeton's sound and look...
0:44:16 > 0:44:19- ..is too much like - American rap music.
0:44:24 > 0:44:29- They have banned radio stations - from playing Kola Loka's music...
0:44:29 > 0:44:33- ..so the band has to find other ways - to promote themselves.
0:44:35 > 0:44:37- They've struck a deal - with taxi drivers.
0:44:38 > 0:44:42- They've persuaded them to play - their music and sell their CDs.
0:44:44 > 0:44:48- The government has another reason - for banning Kola Loka's songs.
0:44:48 > 0:44:50- HE RAPS IN SPANISH
0:44:53 > 0:44:56- The songs have a message.
0:44:56 > 0:45:00- One which satirizes - everyday life in Cuba.
0:45:03 > 0:45:08- One of their most popular tracks - is La Estafa Del Babalawo.
0:45:08 > 0:45:13- It satirizes the Santeria priests - who charge a fortune...
0:45:14 > 0:45:17- ..for their religious services.
0:45:21 > 0:45:25- In a country where the government - censors criticism...
0:45:25 > 0:45:28- ..it's a way of voicing an opinion.
0:45:30 > 0:45:32- HE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:45:35 > 0:45:38- It's a way of conveying a message - to the Cuban people.
0:45:38 > 0:45:43- It's a way of expressing an opinion - without using violence.
0:45:45 > 0:45:49- Rather than wanting to escape - to America...
0:45:49 > 0:45:53- ..Kola Loka are determined - to stay in Cuba...
0:45:53 > 0:45:56- ..and have their voices heard.
0:46:01 > 0:46:05- From the outside, it's as if Cuba - hasn't changed at all.
0:46:07 > 0:46:11- For over half a century, - Fidel has isolated the country...
0:46:11 > 0:46:13- ..from the rest of the world.
0:46:15 > 0:46:20- By closely following his vision, - he has created a lasting legacy.
0:46:21 > 0:46:26- In terms of literacy, health care - and the arts, Cuba leads the way.
0:46:26 > 0:46:29- But times are changing.
0:46:32 > 0:46:37- The socialist dream is now funded - by tourism and private enterprise.
0:46:39 > 0:46:42- It may be a precarious situation.
0:46:45 > 0:46:48- While Cubans enjoy - the simpler things in life...
0:46:49 > 0:46:52- ..will they too acquire a taste - for material goods...
0:46:54 > 0:46:58- ..once they experience - a small taste of freedom?
0:46:59 > 0:47:02- As they learn - about the outside world...
0:47:05 > 0:47:08- ..will they stay true - to the vision...
0:47:08 > 0:47:13- ..of an island where everyone is - equal and everyone lives in harmony?
0:47:16 > 0:47:19- I came here - to see whether Cuba has changed.
0:47:19 > 0:47:23- It may have changed, but I prefer - to say that it has adapted.
0:47:23 > 0:47:26- I've been struck - by people's patriotism.
0:47:27 > 0:47:30- People really do love this country.
0:47:30 > 0:47:34- Even if the political system - is going to change...
0:47:34 > 0:47:39- ..I believe the Cuban spirit - and its people will survive.
0:48:17 > 0:48:19- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:48:19 > 0:48:19- .