0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- 888- - 888
0:00:07 > 0:00:11- Every island - transports you to another world.
0:00:15 > 0:00:17- Where natural life...
0:00:17 > 0:00:21- ..and the nature of life have - evolved in their own unique way.
0:00:22 > 0:00:27- But due to the pressures of the - modern world, the tide is turning...
0:00:30 > 0:00:33- ..for better or for worse.
0:00:35 > 0:00:40- In this series, we meet islanders - all over the world.
0:00:43 > 0:00:46- People who are proud - of their history...
0:00:46 > 0:00:50- ..who are preserving their customs - and who are patriotic.
0:00:55 > 0:00:57- But the globalization - of the world...
0:00:58 > 0:01:02- ..has made it impossible - for islanders to stand alone.
0:01:05 > 0:01:06- In many ways...
0:01:07 > 0:01:10- ..these shores are leading - the battle to save the planet.
0:01:13 > 0:01:16- The island's fate - is critical to us all.
0:01:35 > 0:01:40- The beautiful island of Cyprus lies - in the eastern Mediterranean Sea.
0:01:53 > 0:01:57- Nine thousand kilometres - of idyllic coastline.
0:02:01 > 0:02:04- Hundreds of acres - of fertile plains...
0:02:06 > 0:02:10- ..set against a backdrop - of dramatic mountain ranges.
0:02:15 > 0:02:18- For both visitors and natives...
0:02:18 > 0:02:21- ..this place could be paradise.
0:02:22 > 0:02:26- But if Cyprus - has been blessed by its climate...
0:02:26 > 0:02:28- ..its location has been a curse.
0:02:35 > 0:02:40- Throughout the ages, the island - has been a stepping stone...
0:02:40 > 0:02:45- ..for marauding armies from Europe, - Africa and the Middle East.
0:02:47 > 0:02:52- Ruling the whole Mediterranean Sea - was the goal of any despot.
0:02:53 > 0:02:58- The starting point in the crusade - for power was here in Cyprus.
0:02:58 > 0:03:04- After landing here, they were - only one step away from the east...
0:03:04 > 0:03:07- ..or the west.
0:03:07 > 0:03:11- The ground beneath my feet - is red from the bloodshed...
0:03:11 > 0:03:15- ..of battles in both the distant - and the recent past.
0:03:15 > 0:03:18- Sadly, the conflict continues.
0:03:18 > 0:03:23- On a small island such as this, - is all the conflict necessary?
0:03:28 > 0:03:33- In 1974, - the battle lines were drawn again.
0:03:38 > 0:03:41- This time, - the Greeks and the Turks...
0:03:42 > 0:03:45- ..who lived on the island - turned on each other.
0:03:49 > 0:03:53- The battles left visible scars - on the landscape...
0:03:53 > 0:03:56- ..and on the minds of the people.
0:03:56 > 0:04:01- Today, it is now one island - made up of two nations.
0:04:03 > 0:04:05- Cyprus is divided.
0:04:05 > 0:04:07- North versus south.
0:04:08 > 0:04:11- Muslim versus Greek Orthodox, - Turk versus Greek.
0:04:12 > 0:04:15- There are those, however...
0:04:15 > 0:04:20- ..who aspire to a new future - of a united Cyprus.
0:04:21 > 0:04:24- Can they bring harmony - to a divided island?
0:04:24 > 0:04:26- THEY SING IN GREEK
0:04:35 > 0:04:39- I have been reluctant - to visit Cyprus down the years.
0:04:40 > 0:04:45- I'm not sure why, - but it may be an irrational reason.
0:04:45 > 0:04:49- I'd feel as though I was betraying - Greek friends...
0:04:49 > 0:04:53- ..who happen to live on one - of the islands nearest to Turkey.
0:04:53 > 0:04:56- They remain sceptical - of the Turks' motives.
0:04:56 > 0:05:01- So I come here - with my heart ruling my head.
0:05:01 > 0:05:06- I wonder if I'll leave here - with my head ruling my heart?
0:05:12 > 0:05:16- Cyprus is an ancient world - of legends and of love.
0:05:17 > 0:05:20- This is the birthplace - of Aphrodite...
0:05:20 > 0:05:23- ..the Roman goddess - of love and beauty.
0:05:30 > 0:05:34- Legend has it that Aphrodite - arose from the sea here.
0:05:34 > 0:05:39- It's said that if you swim around - Aphrodite's Rock three times...
0:05:40 > 0:05:44- ..you will be blessed - with eternal beauty.
0:05:54 > 0:05:58- The legend is an excellent - marketing ploy to attract tourists.
0:06:03 > 0:06:07- Every year, 2.5 million tourists - flock to these shores.
0:06:09 > 0:06:13- But tourism - isn't a new concept in Cyprus.
0:06:15 > 0:06:20- The first tourists came to enjoy - the landscape and the views.
0:06:20 > 0:06:24- The sunshine, food and wine - were added bonuses.
0:06:24 > 0:06:28- Cyprus's long and complex history - was another attraction.
0:06:29 > 0:06:32- But these days, - a very different kind of tourist...
0:06:32 > 0:06:35- ..comes here in search of fun.
0:06:49 > 0:06:54- Cyprus is now the clubbing capital - of the eastern Mediterranean.
0:06:54 > 0:06:58- The former sleepy fishing villages - of Aiya Napa and Paphos...
0:06:59 > 0:07:02- ..are now dancing - to a different beat.
0:07:03 > 0:07:06- But don't forget - that the beautiful people...
0:07:07 > 0:07:09- ..also came here decades ago.
0:07:14 > 0:07:17- In the 1960s, - before the advent of mass tourism...
0:07:18 > 0:07:23- ..the seaside town of Famagusta - was a paradise for wealthy celebs.
0:07:23 > 0:07:26- It was a hot spot for such stars...
0:07:26 > 0:07:30- ..as Brigitte Bardot, - Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton.
0:07:37 > 0:07:42- In 1974, the golden era - came to an abrupt end.
0:07:45 > 0:07:49- This town, that was once dripping - with wealth, is now dead.
0:07:50 > 0:07:55- Its decline has nothing to do - with the economic downturn...
0:07:55 > 0:07:57- ..or a shortage of tourists.
0:08:01 > 0:08:03- It's all down to a bloody conflict.
0:08:05 > 0:08:09- When the Greek army - tried to annex Cyprus...
0:08:09 > 0:08:13- ..Famagusta was caught - at the centre of the conflict.
0:08:17 > 0:08:22- Determined to protect its interests, - Turkey launched an invasion.
0:08:27 > 0:08:30- The town was evacuated - in a matter of hours...
0:08:30 > 0:08:33- ..before fighting broke out.
0:08:33 > 0:08:36- By the time a ceasefire - was announced...
0:08:36 > 0:08:41- ..the Turks had occupied - the northern third of the island.
0:08:47 > 0:08:51- The UN created a border - to separate the two sides.
0:08:51 > 0:08:55- That border, the Green Line, - is still in force today.
0:08:55 > 0:08:58- It serves as a permanent partition.
0:08:59 > 0:09:03- Southern Cyprus is a republic - that's home to Greek Cypriots.
0:09:03 > 0:09:07- It is internationally acknowledged - as an EU member state.
0:09:08 > 0:09:12- In the north is the Turkish - Republic of Northern Cyprus.
0:09:12 > 0:09:16- Turkey is the only country - to acknowledge its sovereignty.
0:09:19 > 0:09:24- The centre of Famagusta - belongs to the Turkish Republic...
0:09:24 > 0:09:27- ..but tourist areas and beaches - remain in the Buffer Zone.
0:09:28 > 0:09:30- No-one lives there any more.
0:09:30 > 0:09:33- Only United Nations peacekeepers - are seen there.
0:09:36 > 0:09:38- Famagusta is a ghost city.
0:09:39 > 0:09:42- When the Turks invaded Cyprus - in 1974...
0:09:42 > 0:09:46- ..the Greek Cypriots - who had lived there...
0:09:46 > 0:09:49- ..fled to other parts of the island.
0:09:49 > 0:09:52- Since then, - stories have turned into legends.
0:09:52 > 0:09:55- Exaggerated ones, I'm sure.
0:09:55 > 0:09:59- Dinner plates left on tables, - lights being left on...
0:09:59 > 0:10:03- ..and even washing - still hanging on the line.
0:10:05 > 0:10:09- One of those who was forced to flee - is Andreas Hatziaros, a farmer.
0:10:09 > 0:10:11- He's a Greek Cypriot...
0:10:12 > 0:10:16- ..whose birthplace, Axna, remains - in the Buffer Zone in the distance.
0:10:20 > 0:10:25- Andreas was 16 when his family - was driven out of their homes.
0:10:25 > 0:10:30- He remembers leaving everything - when the Turks invaded his village.
0:10:38 > 0:10:45- The family owned a sprawling farm, - most of which lies in no-man's-land.
0:10:45 > 0:10:48- Only a small part of it remains...
0:10:48 > 0:10:50- ..on the Greek side - of the Green Line.
0:10:51 > 0:10:53- HE SPEAKS GREEK
0:10:54 > 0:10:57- All the land that you see - belonged to us, he says.
0:10:57 > 0:11:00- We're bitter. - How else would we feel?
0:11:03 > 0:11:08- The Turks would have occupied - more of his family's land...
0:11:08 > 0:11:12- ..had it not been - for a British Army base nearby.
0:11:15 > 0:11:19- Today, Axna is uninhabited - and quiet.
0:11:20 > 0:11:25- From the safety of the Greek side, - Andreas can only stare longingly...
0:11:25 > 0:11:28- ..at the Turkish soldiers - on his church's roof.
0:11:30 > 0:11:33- This sign says it all about Cyprus.
0:11:33 > 0:11:37- The Cyprus of today, - not the Cyprus of old.
0:11:37 > 0:11:42- It's in three languages - - English, Greek and Turkish.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45- That side belongs - to the British Army.
0:11:45 > 0:11:51- This side belongs - to the Turkish Cypriot army.
0:11:51 > 0:11:55- Andreas, the lowly farmer, - is caught in the middle.
0:11:57 > 0:11:59- He once farmed 60 acres.
0:11:59 > 0:12:03- Now, he's only permitted - to farm four acres.
0:12:06 > 0:12:10- The loss of his inheritance - and his livelihood...
0:12:10 > 0:12:14- ..is a constant reminder - of the schism dividing Cyprus.
0:12:16 > 0:12:20- There are no Cypriots living here, - says Andreas.
0:12:21 > 0:12:23- If there are Turks living here...
0:12:23 > 0:12:26- ..there's no such thing - as a Cypriot nation.
0:12:31 > 0:12:35- Believe it or not, the dispute - over belonging to a nation...
0:12:35 > 0:12:40- ..today takes precedence over - classical wonders from antiquity.
0:12:40 > 0:12:40- .
0:12:45 > 0:12:45- 888
0:12:45 > 0:12:47- 888- - 888
0:12:55 > 0:12:59- Since its very beginnings, - people have fought over Cyprus.
0:13:04 > 0:13:06- Its fertile soil and location...
0:13:07 > 0:13:10- ..were huge rewards - for those navigating the seas.
0:13:14 > 0:13:17- They came from Europe, - Asia and Africa.
0:13:20 > 0:13:22- After each offensive...
0:13:23 > 0:13:28- ..the inhabitants would have - to conform to a new master...
0:13:28 > 0:13:31- ..and new religion.
0:13:31 > 0:13:35- The ancient city of Salamis - attests to its turbulent history.
0:13:39 > 0:13:43- Its deep harbour was a gateway - for marauding troops.
0:13:46 > 0:13:50- Cyprus's history is ancient - and incredibly complicated.
0:13:50 > 0:13:53- Many different nations - have ruled the island...
0:13:54 > 0:13:58- ..including Assyrians, - Egyptians, Persians and Romans.
0:13:58 > 0:14:03- French crusaders ruled it - for three centuries...
0:14:03 > 0:14:07- ..the Venetians - for almost 80 years...
0:14:07 > 0:14:09- ..and the Turks for three centuries.
0:14:09 > 0:14:13- The British were also here, - for close to 80 years.
0:14:13 > 0:14:18- So, in actual fact, - how Greek is the island after all?
0:14:22 > 0:14:25- Someone able to shed light - on the subject...
0:14:25 > 0:14:29- ..is Italian historian - Professor Luca Zavagno.
0:14:29 > 0:14:33- He has spent a lifetime researching - the ancient mysteries of Salamis.
0:14:37 > 0:14:39- HE SPEAKS ITALIAN
0:14:39 > 0:14:43- The professor dreams - of uncovering its wonders.
0:14:43 > 0:14:47- Another amphitheatre - is waiting to be excavated nearby.
0:14:48 > 0:14:51- It was a sprawling city, - similar to Pompeii.
0:14:54 > 0:14:58- But the schism in Cyprus - is so grave...
0:14:58 > 0:15:04- ..that even its ancient history - has become part of the ongoing feud.
0:15:06 > 0:15:09- Because Salamis - is in the Turkish north...
0:15:09 > 0:15:14- ..there's an international ban - on archaeological excavations.
0:15:15 > 0:15:20- It's hard to believe and even harder - for the professor to accept...
0:15:20 > 0:15:25- ..that it's impossible to uncover - Salamis's remarkable history.
0:15:29 > 0:15:33- It's so frustrating - that the last archaeological dig...
0:15:33 > 0:15:36- ..happened in 1974, he says.
0:15:37 > 0:15:42- The embargo prohibits - any archaeological activity...
0:15:43 > 0:15:46- ..unless it's for - conservation purposes.
0:15:50 > 0:15:54- As someone who specializes - in the Byzantine period...
0:15:54 > 0:15:58- ..it's a personal tragedy - for the professor...
0:15:58 > 0:16:04- ..considering how important - Salamis could be archaeologically.
0:16:09 > 0:16:14- The feud continues - in this lost paradise.
0:16:20 > 0:16:24- What Luca had to say - angers me greatly.
0:16:24 > 0:16:29- Due to the political situation, - his work has been halted.
0:16:29 > 0:16:32- He can't continue this vital work...
0:16:32 > 0:16:37- ..that could greatly benefit - Cyprus's hopeless situation.
0:16:37 > 0:16:40- But as someone once told me...
0:16:40 > 0:16:44- ..a lot of heads - need to be knocked together.
0:16:47 > 0:16:49- The cause of Cyprus's division...
0:16:50 > 0:16:54- ..goes to the heart - of the capital, Nicosia...
0:16:54 > 0:16:57- ..or Lefkosia in Greek.
0:16:57 > 0:17:01- The Green Line - runs through the city's centre.
0:17:01 > 0:17:06- It's the only capital city - in the world that remains divided.
0:17:09 > 0:17:13- The scars from the battle - between the two nations...
0:17:13 > 0:17:15- ..are all around.
0:17:22 > 0:17:27- There are no guns here, - but everything else is ready.
0:17:28 > 0:17:31- This picture postcard view...
0:17:31 > 0:17:35- ..was viewed by angry eyes - years ago.
0:17:37 > 0:17:39- The 1,000 UN peacekeepers...
0:17:40 > 0:17:42- ..who are here - to preserve the peace...
0:17:43 > 0:17:46- ..are a constant reminder - of the ongoing feud.
0:17:47 > 0:17:51- Though the flags of both nations - fly above the city...
0:17:51 > 0:17:55- ..one establishes dominion - over the island.
0:17:57 > 0:18:01- Carved on a slope - outside the city...
0:18:01 > 0:18:04- ..is the largest flag in the world.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09- The Turkish Republic - of Northern Cyprus flag...
0:18:10 > 0:18:14- ..measures 75,000 square metres - and can be seen from space.
0:18:15 > 0:18:19- Roughly translated, the slogan - reads, "Proud To Be A Turk".
0:18:20 > 0:18:23- Greek Cypriots - inhabit the south of the city...
0:18:24 > 0:18:26- ..that's called Lefkosia in Greek.
0:18:26 > 0:18:29- They are proud of their - Greek Orthodox religion.
0:18:30 > 0:18:31- This is an affluent city.
0:18:32 > 0:18:36- The sociable nature of the Greeks - is very prominent...
0:18:36 > 0:18:39- ..in the taverna and cafe neon.
0:18:41 > 0:18:43- I would have thought...
0:18:43 > 0:18:47- ..that life was sweet for residents - of a street such as this one...
0:18:48 > 0:18:52- ..with a cloudless blue sky - and warm sunshine.
0:18:52 > 0:18:55- But there's pain - behind closed doors.
0:18:56 > 0:18:59- The pain of people who remember - living as refugees.
0:19:03 > 0:19:07- Charis Charilaou has raised - his children in the capital.
0:19:07 > 0:19:12- But he himself was raised in a town - which is now in the Turkish north.
0:19:13 > 0:19:15- HE SPEAKS GREEK
0:19:16 > 0:19:21- Before 1974, he and his family - lived in the pretty town of Morphou.
0:19:23 > 0:19:25- They had a large garden...
0:19:25 > 0:19:28- ..surrounded by lemon, orange - and tangerine trees.
0:19:29 > 0:19:33- But Charis's paradise - would be destroyed.
0:19:36 > 0:19:41- During the 1960s, - the ethnic conflict intensified...
0:19:41 > 0:19:45- ..with both sides - guilty of serious violence.
0:19:45 > 0:19:49- For Turkish Cypriots, - the Turkish invasion of 1974...
0:19:50 > 0:19:52- ..was their salvation.
0:19:56 > 0:19:58- But for the 200,000 - Greek Cypriots...
0:19:59 > 0:20:01- ..who lived in the north, - it was a tragedy.
0:20:03 > 0:20:08- What followed could only be - described as ethnic cleansing.
0:20:09 > 0:20:13- 100,000 Turkish Cypriots - fled from the south to the north.
0:20:17 > 0:20:20- Greek Cypriots like Charis...
0:20:20 > 0:20:24- ..who lived in the north - were forced to flee...
0:20:24 > 0:20:27- ..leaving their homes - and livelihoods behind.
0:20:31 > 0:20:34- We left all our belongings behind.
0:20:34 > 0:20:38- None of us believed - that we would never return.
0:20:38 > 0:20:42- We only took the smallest bundle - of clothes with us.
0:20:45 > 0:20:48- Today, all he has left - is a photo album...
0:20:48 > 0:20:52- ..to share - with the family's new generation.
0:20:57 > 0:20:59- Charis treasures the photographs.
0:21:00 > 0:21:03- How else could he show - his grandchildren...
0:21:04 > 0:21:06- ..the life they had in Morphou?
0:21:08 > 0:21:12- Even after 40 years, the photos - still cause him pain.
0:21:16 > 0:21:18- This is the country of my ancestors.
0:21:18 > 0:21:22- Of course I still have a longing - and a yearning to have it back.
0:21:25 > 0:21:29- His old home is only 40km away...
0:21:29 > 0:21:33- ..but his chances of returning - are very slim.
0:21:33 > 0:21:36- Though my Greek is poor, - I wanted to ask Charis...
0:21:36 > 0:21:40- ..what it's been like - to live as a refugee for so long.
0:21:41 > 0:21:43- SHE SPEAKS GREEK
0:21:49 > 0:21:54- Anyone who hasn't been a refugee - can't understand, he says.
0:21:58 > 0:22:02- Without having lost loved ones - in conflict...
0:22:02 > 0:22:06- ..and waiting for them to return, - nobody can understand.
0:22:15 > 0:22:19- The waiting continues - for many more families.
0:22:21 > 0:22:25- More than 2,000 people - are still unaccounted for...
0:22:26 > 0:22:28- ..following the conflict.
0:22:32 > 0:22:37- So far, only 217 bodies - have been identified...
0:22:38 > 0:22:40- ..and returned to their families.
0:22:44 > 0:22:44- .
0:22:48 > 0:22:48- 888
0:22:48 > 0:22:50- 888- - 888
0:22:51 > 0:22:55- On the island of Cyprus, - the Greek and Turkish communities...
0:22:55 > 0:22:58- ..are completely separated.
0:22:58 > 0:23:02- In order to learn more - about this sad situation...
0:23:02 > 0:23:05- ..I'd have to visit both sides.
0:23:05 > 0:23:08- I've crossed the famous Green Line.
0:23:08 > 0:23:12- We weren't allowed to film - the checkpoint.
0:23:12 > 0:23:14- We had to show our passports...
0:23:14 > 0:23:19- ..not on the Greek side because - they don't acknowledge the border...
0:23:19 > 0:23:21- ..but on the Turkish side.
0:23:21 > 0:23:25- We've been granted a visa - to come to the north.
0:23:26 > 0:23:29- It's like dividing Wales - into two countries...
0:23:29 > 0:23:33- ..and having to show our passports - in somewhere like Aberystwyth.
0:23:34 > 0:23:39- The Greek south is a member - of the European Union...
0:23:40 > 0:23:43- ..and permitted to trade - with the rest of the world.
0:23:44 > 0:23:46- ..except the north of Cyprus.
0:23:46 > 0:23:51- For businesses in the north, - the situation is much worse.
0:23:51 > 0:23:55- Only Turkey acknowledges - its Turkish Cypriot republic.
0:23:56 > 0:23:59- Everything - must first be approved by Turkey.
0:24:01 > 0:24:05- It's a huge disadvantage - for businessmen like Ozan Dagli.
0:24:08 > 0:24:10- HE SPEAKS TURKISH
0:24:10 > 0:24:15- Ozan tells me that he cannot compete - because the duty is so high.
0:24:17 > 0:24:22- Due to numerous problems, - they can only run their business...
0:24:22 > 0:24:25- ..within certain northern confines.
0:24:27 > 0:24:32- Only Turkey acknowledges northern - Cyprus as an independent state.
0:24:32 > 0:24:36- Consequently, all goods - bought and sold here...
0:24:36 > 0:24:41- ..such as food and other produce, - have to come via Istanbul.
0:24:41 > 0:24:44- Even mail - has to go through Turkey first.
0:24:46 > 0:24:51- Selling produce to southern Cyprus - is an impossible problem.
0:24:53 > 0:24:58- Ozan has battled hard to get his - produce into shops in the south.
0:24:58 > 0:25:03- Even the United Nations - has failed to ensure free trade.
0:25:09 > 0:25:14- Ozan says that supermarket owners - in the south...
0:25:14 > 0:25:17- ..reject products from the north...
0:25:17 > 0:25:21- ..because they fear an anti-Turkish - backlash from customers.
0:25:24 > 0:25:27- Ozan has no hope of selling - to shops in the south.
0:25:27 > 0:25:32- International duty makes it - too expensive to export overseas.
0:25:34 > 0:25:37- No wonder he's angry.
0:25:40 > 0:25:45- He is angered by being isolated - from the global market.
0:25:48 > 0:25:52- Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots - live on this island.
0:25:52 > 0:25:57- At the moment, those in the south - are doing all they can...
0:25:58 > 0:26:01- ..to make sure the north - is still isolated, he says.
0:26:06 > 0:26:10- The hopes of even the north's - most successful businesses...
0:26:10 > 0:26:12- ..risk being dashed.
0:26:15 > 0:26:20- Ozan comes across - as a very sensible and astute man.
0:26:20 > 0:26:24- If everyone was like him, - Cyprus would be a true paradise.
0:26:29 > 0:26:34- But restoring paradise takes more - than healing an economic divide.
0:26:36 > 0:26:40- People's faith must also - be taken into consideration.
0:26:41 > 0:26:44- There are two main religions - on the island...
0:26:44 > 0:26:47- ..Greek Orthodox Christianity - and Sunni Islam.
0:26:49 > 0:26:55- Many Christian churches here - have been turned into mosques...
0:26:55 > 0:26:59- ..as a result of people - being displaced through conflict.
0:27:00 > 0:27:05- But this is the first example, - dating back to the 16th century...
0:27:05 > 0:27:09- ..when the island - was conquered for the first time...
0:27:09 > 0:27:12- ..by the Muslim Ottoman Empire.
0:27:12 > 0:27:14- MAN PRAYS IN TURKISH
0:27:20 > 0:27:24- This was once - St Nicholas's Cathedral.
0:27:25 > 0:27:29- The Gothic architecture - of the building in Famagusta...
0:27:29 > 0:27:33- ..is typical of Europe's - medieval churches.
0:27:35 > 0:27:40- When the Ottomans occupied the city, - they took ownership of it.
0:27:44 > 0:27:48- In keeping with Muslim tradition, - the walls were painted white.
0:27:49 > 0:27:51- The stained glass was replaced...
0:27:51 > 0:27:55- ..and every image of the human form - was covered.
0:28:11 > 0:28:16- The Greek Orthodox tradition - is completely different.
0:28:16 > 0:28:22- Churches are colourfully - and meticulously painted.
0:28:22 > 0:28:25- In the valleys - and on the highest mountains...
0:28:25 > 0:28:29- ..are some of the most striking - medieval churches.
0:28:35 > 0:28:39- It's impossible to separate - religion and politics in Cyprus.
0:28:39 > 0:28:43- But in order to understand - what religion means to people...
0:28:43 > 0:28:48- ..you must come to a place like this - on an occasion like this.
0:28:54 > 0:28:59- The village of Peristerona - is preparing for Easter.
0:28:59 > 0:29:04- It's the most important festival - for the Greek Orthodox Church.
0:29:13 > 0:29:17- The Saturday of Holy Week - is a day to meditate and relax...
0:29:17 > 0:29:22- ..for the older members - of the Greek Orthodox community.
0:29:25 > 0:29:28- But for the younger men - and the boys...
0:29:28 > 0:29:30- ..this isn't a time to be idle.
0:29:30 > 0:29:34- On the eve of Easter, they have - to be at their most alert...
0:29:34 > 0:29:38- ..to ensure weeks of hard labour - aren't wasted.
0:29:40 > 0:29:45- Michaelis Savvas and his friends - have been building a bonfire.
0:29:46 > 0:29:48- It has taken weeks to build...
0:29:48 > 0:29:52- ..and its size - is a matter of community pride.
0:29:52 > 0:29:56- They must make sure - it's the biggest local bonfire.
0:29:56 > 0:30:01- Michaelis must spend long nights - keeping vigil over the bonfire.
0:30:02 > 0:30:07- They stay here every night - until the early hours...
0:30:07 > 0:30:10- ..in case people - from other villages...
0:30:10 > 0:30:12- ..steal the wood or set it alight.
0:30:13 > 0:30:18- There's nothing obviously religious - about this untidy pile of wood.
0:30:19 > 0:30:23- But there's no doubt - that for young men like Michaelis...
0:30:23 > 0:30:27- ..it has genuine - religious significance.
0:30:33 > 0:30:35- The rag doll - on top of the bonfire...
0:30:36 > 0:30:39- ..represents Judas, - who betrayed Christ.
0:30:41 > 0:30:43- They burn it every year...
0:30:44 > 0:30:47- ..to show - that they totally condemn him.
0:30:49 > 0:30:51- Such orthodox beliefs...
0:30:52 > 0:30:56- ..permeate all aspect of rural life - in this part of the island.
0:31:00 > 0:31:04- Michaelis thinks - it's a wonderful custom.
0:31:06 > 0:31:09- It's a way for communities - to celebrate Easter...
0:31:09 > 0:31:12- ..and the resurrection - of their saviour.
0:31:17 > 0:31:19- His mother, Maria, is also busy...
0:31:20 > 0:31:23- ..preparing a traditional - Easter feast.
0:31:23 > 0:31:26- She's keen to teach - the next generation.
0:31:30 > 0:31:33- As her mother and grandmother did...
0:31:33 > 0:31:36- ..Maria now teaches her daughters...
0:31:36 > 0:31:40- ..so that they can continue - the Easter customs.
0:31:43 > 0:31:48- After fasting over Lent, - the Easter Sunday feast...
0:31:48 > 0:31:51- ..is something the whole family - looks forward to.
0:31:54 > 0:31:57- Maria asks her daughter, Christala, - to help.
0:31:59 > 0:32:02- These are flaounes, - the Easter cheese breads.
0:32:03 > 0:32:08- Maria tells me - that the red paint on the eggs...
0:32:08 > 0:32:10- ..is a symbol of Christ's blood.
0:32:10 > 0:32:16- The egg and lemon avgolemono soup - is part of the feast.
0:32:17 > 0:32:22- To accompany the soup, they eat - special bread and boiled meat.
0:32:26 > 0:32:29- A spring lamb - is served as a symbol...
0:32:29 > 0:32:32- ..of Christ's sacrifice - on the cross.
0:32:32 > 0:32:38- They bake the bread with yeast - to represent the resurrection.
0:32:39 > 0:32:43- But this family's faith - is a constant in their lives.
0:32:43 > 0:32:47- Their house - is full of religious icons...
0:32:47 > 0:32:50- ..that are so important to them.
0:32:50 > 0:32:52- BELLS PEAL
0:32:54 > 0:32:57- The church bells - summon the community.
0:33:07 > 0:33:10- The family has invited me - to join them...
0:33:10 > 0:33:13- ..for the climax of their year.
0:33:14 > 0:33:20- The family, along with the others, - are dressed in their Sunday best.
0:33:20 > 0:33:23- Members of the Greek - Orthodox Church...
0:33:24 > 0:33:29- ..have celebrated Easter in this way - since the ninth century.
0:33:30 > 0:33:32- MAN SINGS IN GREEK
0:33:37 > 0:33:43- The words tell the story - of the very first Easter.
0:33:43 > 0:33:47- In the Christian faith, that's when - Jesus rose from the dead.
0:33:53 > 0:33:59- Maria believes that in order - to keep the family together...
0:34:00 > 0:34:02- ..belief in God is essential.
0:34:02 > 0:34:06- It's how children come to learn - the best principles and values.
0:34:12 > 0:34:14- As midnight approaches...
0:34:15 > 0:34:18- ..the lights are turned off - in anticipation...
0:34:18 > 0:34:21- ..of the resurrection.
0:34:23 > 0:34:26- This is the darkest moment - of the year for the faithful.
0:34:26 > 0:34:29- The atmosphere makes you feel...
0:34:29 > 0:34:32- ..as if something big - is about to happen.
0:34:33 > 0:34:35- PRIEST SINGS
0:34:36 > 0:34:41- On the stroke of midnight, - the priest appears...
0:34:41 > 0:34:45- ..and summons his congregation - to light their candles.
0:34:45 > 0:34:49- The villagers - light each other's candles.
0:34:49 > 0:34:53- It's a symbolic ritual - of Christ's light.
0:34:55 > 0:34:57- BELLS PEAL
0:34:58 > 0:35:02- The procession represents - Mary Magdalene and Mary's journey...
0:35:03 > 0:35:06- ..to Jesus's tomb - on the morning of the first Easter.
0:35:12 > 0:35:16- To recall the women's surprise - at seeing an empty tomb...
0:35:17 > 0:35:20- ..the priest announces, - "Christos Anesti!"
0:35:20 > 0:35:22- Christ Is Risen!
0:35:23 > 0:35:27- The congregation replies, - "Alithos Anesti!"
0:35:27 > 0:35:29- Truly, He Is Risen!
0:35:31 > 0:35:33- PRIEST SINGS
0:35:41 > 0:35:43- Behind the church...
0:35:43 > 0:35:49- ..Michaelis watches - weeks of hard work go up in flames.
0:35:50 > 0:35:53- Michaelis stands - alongside his father.
0:35:53 > 0:35:56- Family is just as important - as the rituals.
0:36:00 > 0:36:04- Tonight, scenes like these can be - seen in every village in the south.
0:36:04 > 0:36:09- They are destined to continue, - whatever the island's fate.
0:36:14 > 0:36:17- The procession - returns to the church.
0:36:21 > 0:36:24- Christ is no longer in his tomb.
0:36:25 > 0:36:29- The entire village, - at least for one night...
0:36:29 > 0:36:33- ..truly believes - in the resurrection.
0:36:34 > 0:36:37- I bid the Savvas family farewell...
0:36:38 > 0:36:41- ..as they continue - with one other tradition.
0:36:41 > 0:36:45- If they can keep the flame alight - all the way home...
0:36:46 > 0:36:50- ..then they will enjoy - a prosperous year ahead of them.
0:37:00 > 0:37:02- The following day, Easter Sunday...
0:37:03 > 0:37:07- ..there are celebrations - of a very different kind.
0:37:07 > 0:37:11- Christala Savvas and friends - take part in traditional games...
0:37:11 > 0:37:14- ..to mark the beginning of spring.
0:37:17 > 0:37:21- Spirits are high - among the villagers...
0:37:21 > 0:37:25- ..as they feast on huge plates - of souvla, local lamb.
0:37:28 > 0:37:31- Community spirit is important today.
0:37:32 > 0:37:36- There's clearly - something more than religion...
0:37:36 > 0:37:39- ..tying these people to the island.
0:37:39 > 0:37:40- .
0:37:44 > 0:37:44- 888
0:37:44 > 0:37:46- 888- - 888
0:37:52 > 0:37:55- There are few places - in the Mediterranean...
0:37:55 > 0:37:59- ..that are as desolate - as this region of Cyprus.
0:37:59 > 0:38:01- The Karpaz Peninsula.
0:38:06 > 0:38:08- It's referred to as the Panhandle.
0:38:09 > 0:38:13- It extends 80km into the sea - in north-eastern Cyprus.
0:38:15 > 0:38:19- The region is rich - in subterranean water reservoirs.
0:38:19 > 0:38:25- They keep the plains fertile - throughout the summer months...
0:38:25 > 0:38:30- ..while the rest of the island - bakes in the overbearing heat.
0:38:31 > 0:38:35- But that's not the only reason - why the Karpaz Peninsula is unique.
0:38:35 > 0:38:40- When the Turks invaded, - the peninsula was isolated.
0:38:40 > 0:38:45- The Greeks who once lived here - were unable to flee to the south.
0:38:45 > 0:38:49- They stayed here - and lived under Turkish rule.
0:38:50 > 0:38:53- Religion is important - to both communities...
0:38:53 > 0:38:57- ..but it also divides them.
0:38:57 > 0:39:00- The one thing - they both have in common...
0:39:00 > 0:39:02- ..is their love of the landscape.
0:39:02 > 0:39:06- It's something - they're very passionate about.
0:39:06 > 0:39:09- The island is at its most beautiful - in the north.
0:39:12 > 0:39:15- The promise of a simple life...
0:39:15 > 0:39:18- ..tempted Greek Cypriot - Ismail Cemal...
0:39:19 > 0:39:22- ..and his Canadian wife, Lois, - back to the Karpaz...
0:39:23 > 0:39:25- ..after many years overseas.
0:39:28 > 0:39:31- Ismail tells me - that he regards himself a Cypriot.
0:39:31 > 0:39:34- He returned to raise his children...
0:39:34 > 0:39:39- ..in a nicer environment - with two cultures and two languages.
0:39:41 > 0:39:45- Ismail was brought up - near the village of Buyukkonuk.
0:39:45 > 0:39:48- He remembers mixing well - with his neighbours.
0:39:49 > 0:39:51- Greeks and Turks side by side.
0:39:54 > 0:39:56- But when Lois arrived in 1986...
0:39:57 > 0:39:59- ..and adopted the culture - and language...
0:40:00 > 0:40:05- ..she was saddened to hear that the - Greek villagers had been driven out.
0:40:06 > 0:40:08- SHE SPEAKS TURKISH
0:40:10 > 0:40:14- Lois tells me the Greek Cypriots - didn't want to leave.
0:40:14 > 0:40:17- They hadn't offended anyone...
0:40:17 > 0:40:21- ..and claimed to be friends - with the Turks.
0:40:21 > 0:40:24- But the Turks didn't want them here.
0:40:25 > 0:40:27- They were driven out by soldiers.
0:40:29 > 0:40:33- Sixteen Greek Cypriot villagers - were killed in the conflict.
0:40:35 > 0:40:38- Today, there are no signs - of past conflicts...
0:40:38 > 0:40:42- ..but the history - isn't far from people's minds.
0:40:44 > 0:40:49- Lois tells me they discuss politics - and the dispute in Cyprus daily.
0:40:50 > 0:40:54- The older generation remembers - what it was like before 1974.
0:40:55 > 0:40:58- They long for the old days.
0:41:02 > 0:41:06- In an attempt - to move Buyukkonuk forward...
0:41:06 > 0:41:11- ..Lois and Ismail - have created an eco-village here...
0:41:11 > 0:41:14- ..and a self-sufficient community.
0:41:16 > 0:41:18- They recycle water...
0:41:19 > 0:41:21- ..use solar panels...
0:41:22 > 0:41:25- ..and press olives - using traditional methods.
0:41:25 > 0:41:29- They have a vision - of revolutionizing the island...
0:41:29 > 0:41:33- ..by concentrating - on small everyday things.
0:41:33 > 0:41:36- Lois insists on cooking...
0:41:36 > 0:41:40- ..by using traditional methods - and natural ingredients.
0:41:46 > 0:41:49- Lois offers me a taste of Cyprus.
0:41:49 > 0:41:51- Seeded bread with raisins...
0:41:51 > 0:41:56- ..and wild berries that provide food - for migrating birds.
0:41:57 > 0:42:00- It's really tasty, - as well as being good for you.
0:42:01 > 0:42:03- It's much better - than a bar of chocolate.
0:42:05 > 0:42:08- Ismail has revived - old carving methods...
0:42:09 > 0:42:14- ..using the wood of olive trees - that would usually be left to rot.
0:42:17 > 0:42:19- In ecotourism, says Ismail...
0:42:19 > 0:42:24- ..natural produce, culture - and traditions are all-important.
0:42:24 > 0:42:29- They are elements - that strengthen people's identity.
0:42:31 > 0:42:34- Ismail has put his tragic - experiences behind him...
0:42:35 > 0:42:38- ..and is focusing - on creating a Utopia.
0:42:38 > 0:42:42- It is difficult for people - to forget the conflict.
0:42:43 > 0:42:46- Ismail puts his faith - in the younger generation...
0:42:46 > 0:42:50- ..who call themselves Cypriots - and nothing else.
0:42:59 > 0:43:03- Back in the divided capital - of Nicosia or Lefkosia...
0:43:04 > 0:43:07- ..no effort has been made - to move forward.
0:43:09 > 0:43:13- But there are those here - who are trying to bridge the gap.
0:43:13 > 0:43:16- The Buffer Zone - is about 100 metres wide...
0:43:16 > 0:43:22- ..but the gap between - the two communities is far wider.
0:43:22 > 0:43:26- I'm here tonight to see - what could eventually become...
0:43:26 > 0:43:29- ..the beginning - of a new understanding.
0:43:31 > 0:43:35- Engineer George Spyrou - believes it is possible...
0:43:35 > 0:43:38- ..for the Turks and the Greeks - to get along.
0:43:41 > 0:43:44- In 1997, he formed a peace choir.
0:43:45 > 0:43:50- The 50 members are both Greek - and Turkish Cypriots.
0:43:51 > 0:43:54- They rehearse - at the Ledra Palace Hotel...
0:43:54 > 0:43:58- ..in the UN-controlled Buffer Zone.
0:44:01 > 0:44:02- Hello there.
0:44:02 > 0:44:03- Hello there.- - Hello.
0:44:04 > 0:44:10- This is where the UN administered - the 1974 prisoner exchange process.
0:44:13 > 0:44:17- People now come here - of their own volition...
0:44:17 > 0:44:19- ..to sing for a better future.
0:44:26 > 0:44:29- CHOIR SINGS
0:44:42 > 0:44:46- According to George, the choir's aim - was to unite two communities.
0:44:46 > 0:44:53- The message of love and peace - would be spread through the music.
0:44:53 > 0:44:56- CHOIR SINGS
0:44:57 > 0:44:59- George is a Greek Cypriot, - born in the south...
0:45:00 > 0:45:05- ..during a turbulent time when both - communities were at loggerheads.
0:45:05 > 0:45:09- He hadn't even spoken to a Turkish - Cypriot until he was 38 years old.
0:45:13 > 0:45:16- George tells me - that curiosity inspired him.
0:45:18 > 0:45:22- He wanted to know who these people - were, how they looked...
0:45:23 > 0:45:26- ..what they talked about - and what ideas they had.
0:45:30 > 0:45:32- What's striking - about this choir...
0:45:33 > 0:45:37- ..is their desire to share - languages, customs and traditions...
0:45:37 > 0:45:41- ..even if it takes - considerable effort.
0:45:45 > 0:45:47- GENTLE STRING MUSIC
0:45:49 > 0:45:52- Two languages - and two communities...
0:45:53 > 0:45:55- ..singing as one.
0:45:55 > 0:45:59- If they can sing like that, - why can't they live like that?
0:45:59 > 0:46:03- "That wondrous day will come," - according to one of their songs.
0:46:03 > 0:46:07- That's certainly - George Spyrou's dream.
0:46:11 > 0:46:15- It's tragic that such a beautiful - island is split in two.
0:46:15 > 0:46:20- We Greek Cypriots - and Turkish Cypriots...
0:46:20 > 0:46:23- ..could have created a paradise - together here.
0:46:28 > 0:46:31- This is my last night in Cyprus.
0:46:31 > 0:46:34- I've accompanied the choir - to Athienou...
0:46:34 > 0:46:39- ..a small Greek enclave - among Turkish Cypriot lands.
0:46:40 > 0:46:42- It is a memorial concert - for two friends...
0:46:43 > 0:46:46- ..one a Greek Cypriot, - the other a Turkish Cypriot...
0:46:46 > 0:46:51- ..who were murdered for trying - to bring peace to two communities.
0:46:51 > 0:46:53- THEY SING IN GREEK
0:46:59 > 0:47:03- I doubt this choir would win - at an eisteddfod in Wales...
0:47:03 > 0:47:09- ..but they have a bigger ambition - that's far more important.
0:47:13 > 0:47:16- I came here - with a bias towards the Greeks.
0:47:16 > 0:47:19- But I've met nice people - from both sides...
0:47:19 > 0:47:23- ..each of them hoping to see - the Green Line eliminated...
0:47:24 > 0:47:27- ..so that everyone - can live in harmony once again.
0:47:43 > 0:47:49- Only then can Cyprus - become a true paradise.
0:48:30 > 0:48:32- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:48:32 > 0:48:32- .