0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- 888- - 888
0:00:04 > 0:00:07- Every island - transports you to another world.
0:00:10 > 0:00:12- Where natural life...
0:00:12 > 0:00:16- ..and the nature of life have - evolved in their own unique way.
0:00:18 > 0:00:21- But due to the pressures - of the modern world...
0:00:21 > 0:00:25- ..the tide is turning, - for better and for worse.
0:00:28 > 0:00:33- In this series, - we meet islanders all over the world.
0:00:40 > 0:00:43- People who are proud - of their history...
0:00:43 > 0:00:48- ..who preserve their customs, - who are patriotic.
0:00:48 > 0:00:50- But globalization...
0:00:51 > 0:00:54- ..has made it impossible - for islanders to stand alone.
0:00:54 > 0:00:58- In many ways, these shores - are leading the battle...
0:00:59 > 0:01:02- ..to save the planet.
0:01:02 > 0:01:06- The island's fate - is critical to us all.
0:01:27 > 0:01:30- In the glistening waters - of the Pacific Ocean...
0:01:30 > 0:01:34- ..are the 333 islands - that make up the nation of Fiji.
0:01:34 > 0:01:38- When I lived in Sydney for a while - as an honorary Aussie...
0:01:38 > 0:01:41- ..I was fortunate - to be able to travel.
0:01:41 > 0:01:46- I'd often fly over the South Pacific - and islands such as Fiji...
0:01:46 > 0:01:50- ..and wonder what it would be like - to live there.
0:01:52 > 0:01:55- The opportunity - has now presented itself.
0:01:55 > 0:02:00- I'll explore the secret of Fiji's - success on the rugby field...
0:02:01 > 0:02:04- ..and take a peek - at the national team's plans...
0:02:04 > 0:02:06- ..to beat Wales and the world.
0:02:09 > 0:02:13- I'm also embarking on a journey - from the shoreline...
0:02:13 > 0:02:16- ..deep into the countryside - to work and to play.
0:02:19 > 0:02:23- To drink and to celebrate - with the people of Fiji.
0:02:23 > 0:02:25- THEY SING IN FIJIAN
0:02:31 > 0:02:36- Behind the shelter of coral reefs, - Fijians have a unique way of life.
0:02:41 > 0:02:43- I'm going back in time...
0:02:43 > 0:02:47- ..to experience the ancient customs - of the cannibals.
0:02:51 > 0:02:54- I'll also hear - about the missionaries...
0:02:54 > 0:02:58- ..who believed that they - brought light to a dark island.
0:02:58 > 0:03:02- # What A Friend We Have In Jesus #
0:03:02 > 0:03:08- I taste the island's - most important export - sugar.
0:03:08 > 0:03:12- I hear about the Indians - who came here years ago...
0:03:13 > 0:03:16- ..as slaves to reap the harvest...
0:03:18 > 0:03:21- ..and who now celebrate - their Fijian identity.
0:03:24 > 0:03:28- However, all is not well - on this colourful island.
0:03:28 > 0:03:30- GUNFIRE
0:03:35 > 0:03:38- There are underlying tensions.
0:03:40 > 0:03:45- As global warming takes effect, - another danger has engulfed Fiji...
0:03:46 > 0:03:50- ..one that threatens to turn - this paradise into hell.
0:03:56 > 0:04:00- I'm about to see the effects - of climate change for myself.
0:04:00 > 0:04:04- The coral reefs that protect - the shores are dying.
0:04:04 > 0:04:09- Nobody knows what effect the loss - of these reefs will have on Fiji.
0:04:10 > 0:04:15- The ramifications are so vast - that they prompt one big question.
0:04:15 > 0:04:19- How could an island such as Fiji - with its unique culture...
0:04:19 > 0:04:22- ..withstand a possible - natural disaster?
0:04:33 > 0:04:37- Today, Fiji has a population - of one million.
0:04:37 > 0:04:40- Most of the people - live on the main island, Viti Levu.
0:04:42 > 0:04:45- Inhabitants of the capital, Suva...
0:04:45 > 0:04:48- ..along with a dozen other - major towns...
0:04:48 > 0:04:50- ..enjoy their urban lives.
0:04:52 > 0:04:54- Elsewhere, things are very different.
0:04:58 > 0:05:02- A few kilometres from Viti Levu - is the island of Beqa...
0:05:02 > 0:05:05- ..where the ancient culture - is alive and well.
0:05:09 > 0:05:14- This isn't the leisurely, - smooth journey I was expecting...
0:05:15 > 0:05:18- ..crossing from Suva to Beqa...
0:05:18 > 0:05:22- ..but we'll get a glimpse - of how villagers live here.
0:05:22 > 0:05:26- MEN SHOUT
0:05:44 > 0:05:48- The islanders are preparing - a welcoming ceremony for me.
0:05:50 > 0:05:52- I have to prepare to meet them too.
0:05:53 > 0:05:55- Let me explain.
0:05:55 > 0:05:59- This is the sulu - it's the first - time I've worn a skirt.
0:05:59 > 0:06:01- In public, at least!
0:06:01 > 0:06:04- I'm about to enter the village hall - behind me.
0:06:04 > 0:06:10- I'm wearing the sulu to show - my respect for the tribe's chief...
0:06:10 > 0:06:13- ..and all the villagers - here in Beqa.
0:06:19 > 0:06:22- I haven't come empty-handed.
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- I've brought the root - of a kava plant...
0:06:25 > 0:06:28- ..which is used to prepare - a very special drink.
0:06:29 > 0:06:31- Sevusevu. From Wales.
0:06:32 > 0:06:37- The sevusevu, the gift ceremony, - is an important custom for visitors.
0:06:40 > 0:06:43- You should never disrespect - the ritual.
0:06:46 > 0:06:51- The villagers have already brewed - a drink for me from a kava root...
0:06:51 > 0:06:55- ..similar to the one - I presented to the chief.
0:07:00 > 0:07:03- I'm told it's much stronger - than beer...
0:07:03 > 0:07:06- ..and likely to make my head spin.
0:07:08 > 0:07:10- SLOW HANDCLAP
0:07:12 > 0:07:14- Cheers.
0:07:14 > 0:07:19- I'm expected to drink the bowl's - contents in one big gulp.
0:07:21 > 0:07:25- I must remember to clap my hands - after finishing.
0:07:30 > 0:07:34- The tribe's chief is wise.
0:07:34 > 0:07:38- He has appointed a friend - to drink it on his behalf.
0:07:38 > 0:07:43- I wasn't sure what to expect. - It didn't look very appetizing.
0:07:43 > 0:07:48- There wasn't much taste to it either, - but it has left my tongue numb.
0:07:48 > 0:07:52- I'm not sure how I'll feel - in half an hour...
0:07:52 > 0:07:54- ..but it was an experience.
0:08:00 > 0:08:02- The chief is called Tui Sawau.
0:08:02 > 0:08:05- He controls everything - in the village.
0:08:05 > 0:08:08- Today, he has organized a ceremony...
0:08:08 > 0:08:11- ..to show me the power - of the tribe's ancient customs.
0:08:16 > 0:08:18- First, the villagers - light the lovo...
0:08:19 > 0:08:21- ..an earth oven...
0:08:21 > 0:08:23- ..and prepare a traditional feast.
0:08:26 > 0:08:30- Every family contributes - and shares the cooking duties.
0:08:32 > 0:08:37- Feeding the body isn't the only - reason for all the preparation.
0:08:41 > 0:08:44- It's a way of teaching - the local children...
0:08:45 > 0:08:47- ..to respect their customs.
0:08:47 > 0:08:51- Tui Sawau tells me it's essential - to sustain their traditions.
0:08:52 > 0:08:55- It's important to teach the children - to be polite...
0:08:55 > 0:09:00- ..and ensure they understand - the different responsibilities.
0:09:03 > 0:09:07- But beyond the sea, a wind of change - is blowing towards Beqa.
0:09:09 > 0:09:13- The influences of the west - greatly concern Tui Sawau...
0:09:14 > 0:09:16- ..as does Suva's urban lifestyle.
0:09:17 > 0:09:20- He tells me - they are bad influences...
0:09:20 > 0:09:23- ..that threaten - the old communal way of life.
0:09:28 > 0:09:33- Now that I've proven I can drink - kava like a native...
0:09:33 > 0:09:36- ..I get to sample the feast - from the lovo.
0:09:38 > 0:09:40- It's very tasty.
0:09:41 > 0:09:44- It's different, - but it was worth the journey.
0:09:47 > 0:09:51- Next come preparations for the ritual - of which Tui Sawau is so proud.
0:09:52 > 0:09:54- Vilavilairevo.
0:09:55 > 0:09:58- This literally means - jumping into the oven.
0:09:58 > 0:10:00- MEN SHOUT
0:10:01 > 0:10:03- I'd call it walking over hot coals.
0:10:09 > 0:10:13- The ritual is as old as Beqa itself.
0:10:13 > 0:10:15- HE SPEAKS FIJIAN
0:10:16 > 0:10:21- For centuries, Tui Sawau's ancestors - have been walking over hot coals.
0:10:24 > 0:10:27- The legend behind the ritual...
0:10:28 > 0:10:31- ..is familiar - to young and old alike.
0:10:32 > 0:10:37- The legend's hero is a tribal chief - called Tui-na-Iviqalita.
0:10:41 > 0:10:44- One day, Tui-na-Iviqalita - catches a magical eel.
0:10:47 > 0:10:51- He offers to release the creature - back into the sea...
0:10:51 > 0:10:54- ..in exchange for the gift - of fire-walking.
0:10:56 > 0:10:58- Only the men walk over the coals...
0:11:00 > 0:11:04- ..but everyone has a role to play - in the preparations.
0:11:07 > 0:11:10- For four nights - before the ceremony...
0:11:11 > 0:11:14- ..they have to give up - certain privileges.
0:11:17 > 0:11:22- The men are forbidden - from sleeping with their wives.
0:11:24 > 0:11:27- They are also forbidden - from eating coconut.
0:11:28 > 0:11:29- RHYTHMIC DRUMMING
0:11:34 > 0:11:37- Before fire-walking, - they perform the Meke...
0:11:37 > 0:11:41- ..a dance that summons the spirit - of the Sawau tribe.
0:11:47 > 0:11:53- The dance is a reminder of old - battles and keeps the history alive.
0:11:53 > 0:11:56- RHYTHMIC BEATS AND CHANTS
0:11:58 > 0:12:02- It's said that the Meke - can foresee the future.
0:12:10 > 0:12:14- I'm just going to see - how hot these stones are.
0:12:16 > 0:12:19- I definitely wouldn't want to walk - over those.
0:12:20 > 0:12:22- MEN SHOUT
0:12:24 > 0:12:27- The priest begins the ceremony...
0:12:27 > 0:12:31- ..calling on the men - to prepare the fire pit.
0:12:34 > 0:12:37- Everybody must follow - his instructions.
0:12:44 > 0:12:48- The stones reach a temperature - of 300 degrees Celsius.
0:12:52 > 0:12:54- If someone breaks the rules...
0:12:54 > 0:12:58- ..they would certainly burn, - says Tui Sawau.
0:13:03 > 0:13:06- The big moment has finally arrived.
0:13:15 > 0:13:18- One by one, - the men challenge the heat...
0:13:20 > 0:13:24- ..and follow - in the footsteps of their ancestors.
0:13:29 > 0:13:35- Successfully crossing the stones - safeguards the tribe's honour.
0:13:35 > 0:13:37- MEN SING
0:13:49 > 0:13:52- Tui Sawau realizes...
0:13:52 > 0:13:56- ..that he cannot protect his people - and customs for ever.
0:13:56 > 0:13:58- CHIEF SPEAKS IN FIJIAN
0:13:59 > 0:14:02- You can't keep all influences - at bay, he says.
0:14:08 > 0:14:11- Black clouds are gathering - on the horizon for Beqa...
0:14:12 > 0:14:18- ..changes that not even the tribe's - prophetic ceremonies can foresee.
0:14:18 > 0:14:18- .
0:14:22 > 0:14:22- 888
0:14:22 > 0:14:24- 888- - 888
0:14:30 > 0:14:33- Change is about to sweep - across Fiji's shores...
0:14:35 > 0:14:39- ..but this isn't the first - unexpected wave to wash over them.
0:14:42 > 0:14:47- Less than 150 years ago, - cannibals lived here.
0:14:49 > 0:14:51- Tribal warfare was commonplace.
0:14:52 > 0:14:55- The ultimate revenge - was to eat the enemy.
0:15:00 > 0:15:04- Back on Viti Levu, - the islanders are coming together...
0:15:05 > 0:15:08- ..to recreate their bloodthirsty - history in a play.
0:15:13 > 0:15:16- I enter a dark cave - in the depths of the jungle...
0:15:16 > 0:15:20- ..to watch one of the strangest - things I've ever seen.
0:15:28 > 0:15:33- They're dramatizing the story - of a Christian missionary...
0:15:33 > 0:15:36- ..who came here - to eradicate cannibalism.
0:15:38 > 0:15:42- In 1867, a young minister - called Thomas Baker...
0:15:42 > 0:15:45- ..paid the ultimate price - for his mission.
0:15:45 > 0:15:50- He was offered as a sacrifice - to the local war god.
0:15:55 > 0:15:59- He was slaughtered, - cooked and eaten.
0:16:10 > 0:16:13- At least Thomas's sacrifice - wasn't in vain.
0:16:14 > 0:16:17- The missionaries - eventually civilized the island...
0:16:18 > 0:16:20- ..and eradicated violent practices.
0:16:21 > 0:16:24- Nowadays, Fiji's Christians - refer to the old days...
0:16:25 > 0:16:28- ..as na gauna ni tevoro - - the time of the devil.
0:16:30 > 0:16:33- There are now a quarter of a million - Methodists in Fiji.
0:16:34 > 0:16:36- Asenatha Vicana is one of them.
0:16:38 > 0:16:40- SHE SPEAKS FIJIAN
0:16:41 > 0:16:45- When the missionaries - brought the gospel to the island...
0:16:45 > 0:16:49- ..people turned their back - on cannibalism and warfare.
0:16:53 > 0:16:55- Asenatha is a Sunday school teacher.
0:16:56 > 0:16:59- She's also the wife - of a village chief...
0:16:59 > 0:17:03- ..in the north of Viti Levu, - Fiji's main island.
0:17:05 > 0:17:10- She's searching for a way to combine - her faith with Fiji's old rituals.
0:17:16 > 0:17:18- God is the priority, says Asenatha.
0:17:19 > 0:17:23- We pray to God first...
0:17:23 > 0:17:27- ..before the ceremony - and the traditional celebrations.
0:17:27 > 0:17:29- CHILDREN SING IN FIJIAN
0:17:36 > 0:17:38- # Read your Bible
0:17:38 > 0:17:42- # Pray every day, pray every day
0:17:42 > 0:17:44- # Pray every day #
0:17:45 > 0:17:48- When the missionaries - introduced Christianity to Fiji...
0:17:49 > 0:17:52- ..the faith - was completely alien to them.
0:17:57 > 0:18:00- Religious icons - such as this black Christ...
0:18:00 > 0:18:05- ..are an effort to show that Jesus - saved people from all races.
0:18:07 > 0:18:09- The islanders were converted...
0:18:11 > 0:18:15- ..and Fiji is today considered - to be the Pacific's Bible Belt.
0:18:20 > 0:18:24- I couldn't be further - from Bethesda chapel in Tumble...
0:18:24 > 0:18:26- ..where I went as a child.
0:18:26 > 0:18:31- But the smiles tell you how much - they enjoy Sunday school, as I did.
0:18:35 > 0:18:38- After Sunday school, the luli drum - heralds morning service.
0:18:43 > 0:18:48- At one time, the luli was used - to summon the men to battle.
0:18:52 > 0:18:56- These days, it's the chapel faithful - who come to sing hymns.
0:18:56 > 0:18:59- # What A Friend We Have In Jesus #
0:19:07 > 0:19:11- Asenatha says that singing hymns - brings her closer to God.
0:19:14 > 0:19:17- When you sing, - the words of the hymn touch you.
0:19:20 > 0:19:24- You're glorifying God - and thanking him for his blessings.
0:19:47 > 0:19:52- Asenatha is keen to extend - the blessings outside chapel too.
0:19:54 > 0:19:58- As the chief's wife, the welfare - of the community is her concern.
0:20:03 > 0:20:05- She is the mother of the village.
0:20:05 > 0:20:08- If someone is starving, - Asenatha feeds them.
0:20:14 > 0:20:17- If someone is crying, - she comforts them.
0:20:17 > 0:20:20- She does all she can - for the villagers.
0:20:27 > 0:20:32- Asenatha's philanthropy - extends beyond the village of Navola.
0:20:34 > 0:20:39- In 2004, she founded - the area's first nursery school.
0:20:41 > 0:20:44- She says it's vital - that the children are educated.
0:20:47 > 0:20:50- Education can transform villages - such as ours.
0:20:51 > 0:20:57- There is now a network of nursery - schools in neighbouring villages.
0:20:59 > 0:21:03- By combining her faith - and her duty to the tribe...
0:21:03 > 0:21:06- ..Asenatha brings blessings - to everyone.
0:21:08 > 0:21:10- THEY PERFORM THE CIBI
0:21:11 > 0:21:15- But the old and the new - don't always sit well together.
0:21:24 > 0:21:27- The Cibi is an ancient battle chant.
0:21:27 > 0:21:32- It's a chorus that disturbs - any rugby team taking on Fiji.
0:21:35 > 0:21:39- One of the team's stars - explains the meaning of the words.
0:21:39 > 0:21:43- "I have a shield, I have a spear
0:21:43 > 0:21:45- "We're ready to go into battle
0:21:45 > 0:21:48- "We will beat you."
0:21:48 > 0:21:50- Sireli Naqelevuki is a centre.
0:21:50 > 0:21:55- He has performed the Cibi - at more than 20 internationals.
0:21:58 > 0:22:03- He says the Cibi makes you feel - as if you're preparing for battle.
0:22:04 > 0:22:08- It gives you strength - and excites you.
0:22:13 > 0:22:18- Unfortunately, some of Fiji's chapel - faithful didn't see it that way.
0:22:20 > 0:22:24- In 2009, with the backing - of the team's minister...
0:22:24 > 0:22:29- ..the Cibi was banned - because it was deemed unchristian.
0:22:32 > 0:22:36- For the first time in 70 years, - the team dropped the Cibi...
0:22:37 > 0:22:39- ..before a big game - against Scotland.
0:22:43 > 0:22:45- The team was trounced.
0:22:45 > 0:22:48- Had they angered the ancient gods?
0:22:52 > 0:22:56- For rugby supporters in rural Fiji...
0:22:56 > 0:22:59- ..this was their cue - to tackle the prejudice.
0:23:00 > 0:23:05- They fought to restore the ritual - in the nation's favourite sport.
0:23:11 > 0:23:15- Like Christianity, - rugby came to Fiji from Europe.
0:23:15 > 0:23:18- The people are passionate about it.
0:23:21 > 0:23:25- The sport is an important part - of their everyday lives.
0:23:31 > 0:23:34- Sireli says that rugby - is slowly becoming a religion.
0:23:35 > 0:23:38- It has a large following - in the villages.
0:23:40 > 0:23:46- The children develop the skills - and the confidence at a young age.
0:23:50 > 0:23:52- This is incredible.
0:23:54 > 0:23:57- There are people of all ages here.
0:23:57 > 0:24:01- Twenty-year-olds and five-year-olds - are playing together.
0:24:01 > 0:24:05- They have natural flair. - It's fantastic to watch.
0:24:05 > 0:24:08- No wonder - they're such good sevens players.
0:24:09 > 0:24:11- Incredible.
0:24:12 > 0:24:14- It's nice to see people - enjoying rugby.
0:24:15 > 0:24:20- They're throwing the ball around - and letting their skills do the work.
0:24:23 > 0:24:26- There is support - for any boy from the village...
0:24:26 > 0:24:29- ..who's selected - for the national side.
0:24:32 > 0:24:36- Before a game, Sireli's parents - give him encouragement.
0:24:36 > 0:24:39- "Go out and show the world - that you're a great rugby player.
0:24:40 > 0:24:43- "Bring success back to Fiji."
0:24:50 > 0:24:52- THEY SING IN FIJIAN
0:24:58 > 0:25:00- With the support of the fans...
0:25:00 > 0:25:05- ..the Fiji Rugby Union stood up - against the Christian authorities...
0:25:05 > 0:25:09- ..and demanded that the team - be allowed to perform the Cibi.
0:25:14 > 0:25:18- Once again, the old war cry - echoes across the field.
0:25:23 > 0:25:26- The battle for the Cibi is over...
0:25:26 > 0:25:30- ..but Fiji now faces - a much bigger battle.
0:25:31 > 0:25:34- A sudden change in the weather - is a sure sign.
0:25:34 > 0:25:39- This isn't what I expected - on the paradise island of Fiji...
0:25:39 > 0:25:43- ..but I've obviously brought - the weather with me from Wales.
0:25:44 > 0:25:50- It isn't down to me, of course - - this is the effect of global warming.
0:25:52 > 0:25:56- El Nino - has contributed greatly to that.
0:25:57 > 0:26:02- Variations in ocean temperatures - and air surface pressure...
0:26:02 > 0:26:05- ..on the South American coast...
0:26:05 > 0:26:09- ..cause El Nino to sweep - harsh weather across Fiji.
0:26:15 > 0:26:19- On a rainy day, I take a boat trip - on a traditional vessel....
0:26:19 > 0:26:22- ..and begin to realize - the extent of the problem.
0:26:23 > 0:26:27- The experienced captain tells me - that today is no exception.
0:26:27 > 0:26:30- For the past decade in Fiji...
0:26:30 > 0:26:33- ..every winter and summer...
0:26:34 > 0:26:37- ..has seen a change in temperature - and climate.
0:26:39 > 0:26:42- Beneath the waves, - the damage continues.
0:26:42 > 0:26:45- Due to the warming of the sea...
0:26:45 > 0:26:49- ..the algae that sustain - the coral reefs are dying.
0:26:51 > 0:26:55- The reefs protect Fiji's - fragile coastline from storms.
0:26:57 > 0:27:02- Without the reefs, the tide - threatens to drown seaside homes...
0:27:02 > 0:27:04- ..where 90% of the population lives.
0:27:09 > 0:27:11- History is being washed away.
0:27:13 > 0:27:15- We've read numerous articles...
0:27:15 > 0:27:21- ..and we've heard and seen plenty - about rising sea levels in the media.
0:27:21 > 0:27:25- If you need any proof of that, - just look out to sea here...
0:27:26 > 0:27:29- ..and you'll see that a cemetery - has sunk into the sea.
0:27:30 > 0:27:32- This is Fiji's Cantre'r Gwaelod.
0:27:34 > 0:27:39- Can the damage be reversed - or is it already too late for Fiji?
0:27:41 > 0:27:42- .
0:27:46 > 0:27:46- 888
0:27:46 > 0:27:48- 888- - 888
0:27:54 > 0:27:58- Nobody can rely - on Fiji's weather these days.
0:27:59 > 0:28:01- Years ago, it was far more stable...
0:28:01 > 0:28:07- ..enabling one of the world's most - profitable exports to flourish.
0:28:08 > 0:28:12- I'm in a field, surrounded by one - of Fiji's most lucrative industries.
0:28:12 > 0:28:14- Sugar.
0:28:15 > 0:28:17- Surprise, surprise, it's very sweet!
0:28:17 > 0:28:21- This is the sugar that goes - into your tea and coffee at home.
0:28:24 > 0:28:28- But however sweet the taste, - sugar has a bitter history in Fiji.
0:28:32 > 0:28:35- It's the story - of privileged people...
0:28:35 > 0:28:40- ..lining their pockets - from the toil of poor labourers.
0:28:43 > 0:28:47- In 1874, Fiji was colonized - by the British...
0:28:47 > 0:28:52- ..and their new masters seized - the opportunity to make money.
0:28:54 > 0:28:58- The British brought over - 60,000 Indian labourers...
0:28:58 > 0:29:01- ..to work in the sugar plantations.
0:29:01 > 0:29:05- To all intents and purposes, - they were slaves.
0:29:08 > 0:29:11- The sugar industry flourished - at their expense.
0:29:12 > 0:29:15- It became the cornerstone - of the Fijian economy.
0:29:18 > 0:29:24- Fiji now produces four million tonnes - of sugar cane annually.
0:29:31 > 0:29:34- Small trains - transport the sugar to the mill.
0:29:34 > 0:29:37- There are 600km of railway tracks...
0:29:37 > 0:29:41- ..making it the longest network - of its kind in the world.
0:29:43 > 0:29:45- Wherever you drive on the island...
0:29:46 > 0:29:49- ..small trains - run parallel with the road.
0:29:52 > 0:29:55- When the slave labour system - came to an end in 1917...
0:29:55 > 0:29:59- ..the Indian immigrants - had settled here.
0:30:03 > 0:30:07- Few could afford to return to India, - even if they wanted to.
0:30:12 > 0:30:15- Indians now make up - 40% of Fiji's population.
0:30:17 > 0:30:19- Lal Phillip is one of them.
0:30:20 > 0:30:24- He's a descendant - of the original slave labourers.
0:30:25 > 0:30:27- HE SPEAKS FIJIAN
0:30:27 > 0:30:32- His ancestors came to Fiji by boat - to work on the sugar plantations.
0:30:36 > 0:30:40- Many died on the voyage and their - bodies were thrown overboard.
0:30:44 > 0:30:48- These days, Lal farms four acres - of sugar cane.
0:30:50 > 0:30:54- His family has retained - the old Indian customs...
0:30:54 > 0:30:58- ..despite being the fifth generation - to be raised in Fiji.
0:31:12 > 0:31:14- MAN CHANTS
0:31:14 > 0:31:17- They've also retained their faith.
0:31:22 > 0:31:28- This Hindu temple is the largest - in the southern hemisphere.
0:31:28 > 0:31:32- It attracts hundreds of worshippers - every day.
0:31:32 > 0:31:37- The faithful come to worship Murugan, - the god of seasonal rains.
0:31:41 > 0:31:46- They ask him to bless Fiji - and make it fertile.
0:31:47 > 0:31:51- But is Murugan listening - to their prayers?
0:31:57 > 0:32:02- According to Lal, - the rain failed in 1996 and 1997.
0:32:05 > 0:32:08- Cattle died and food became scarce.
0:32:09 > 0:32:11- The drought almost killed them.
0:32:14 > 0:32:18- El Nino causes extremes - in weather conditions.
0:32:18 > 0:32:22- Fiji suffers increasing droughts - as well as raging storms.
0:32:27 > 0:32:31- It used to rain in December, - January and February...
0:32:31 > 0:32:35- ..but it's now dry all season long.
0:32:38 > 0:32:41- Without the rain, - the sugar doesn't grow.
0:32:41 > 0:32:44- Each year, the yield is lower.
0:32:47 > 0:32:51- Fiji's entire economy is reliant - on a good sugar harvest.
0:32:54 > 0:32:59- But the lack of rain isn't the only - problem facing Fiji's sugar growers.
0:32:59 > 0:33:01- GUNFIRE
0:33:10 > 0:33:13- Thirty years of ethnic conflicts - have rocked Fiji.
0:33:16 > 0:33:21- They stem from tensions - between native Fijians...
0:33:21 > 0:33:23- ..and Fijian Indians.
0:33:28 > 0:33:33- The civil unrest - has led to bloodshed on both sides.
0:33:36 > 0:33:39- The Fijian government - has suffered four coups...
0:33:39 > 0:33:43- ..and thousands have fled to India.
0:33:43 > 0:33:46- However, fleeing has never been - an option for Lal.
0:33:52 > 0:33:55- He's a Fijian Indian of mixed blood.
0:33:58 > 0:34:01- He was born in Fiji - and the island is his home.
0:34:05 > 0:34:10- Since 2006, there has been a period - of political calm in Fiji...
0:34:11 > 0:34:14- ..but the battle - against El Nino continues.
0:34:21 > 0:34:26- In the shadow of the mountains, - another landscape is in danger.
0:34:27 > 0:34:31- Fiji's highlands - are a pure paradise.
0:34:33 > 0:34:36- I was determined to see them - with my own eyes.
0:34:39 > 0:34:42- I'm on my way up - to the mountains...
0:34:43 > 0:34:45- ..in this solid-looking vehicle.
0:34:45 > 0:34:50- Although I'm feeling fit and well, - I have to see a doctor.
0:35:00 > 0:35:03- The doctor lives - in the heart of Viti Levu...
0:35:03 > 0:35:07- ..in a remote village - in the Nausori Highlands.
0:35:18 > 0:35:23- It's as if time has stood still - in Navala.
0:35:26 > 0:35:30- Villagers work together - for the benefit of the community.
0:35:33 > 0:35:36- I have a small cottage in Cardiff.
0:35:36 > 0:35:38- I know now - what kind of roof it needs.
0:35:41 > 0:35:46- Every family has a home built - and repairs are carried out for free.
0:35:47 > 0:35:50- Education is also free.
0:35:50 > 0:35:52- Today's lesson is Geography.
0:35:52 > 0:35:56- All these children - had heard about Wales...
0:35:56 > 0:35:59- ..but none of them - were sure where it was.
0:35:59 > 0:36:01- One of them went to fetch a map...
0:36:02 > 0:36:05- ..and now they all know - where Wales is.
0:36:10 > 0:36:14- This is the doctor - I've come all this way to see.
0:36:18 > 0:36:22- Millie Sura cares for everybody - in the village.
0:36:24 > 0:36:27- She's a traditional - medicine woman...
0:36:27 > 0:36:31- ..like many of her female relatives - before her.
0:36:31 > 0:36:33- SHE SPEAKS FIJIAN
0:36:33 > 0:36:37- Millie keeps her medicinal potions - a secret.
0:36:40 > 0:36:43- She says that she can't reveal - what's in them.
0:36:45 > 0:36:49- If she shared that information, - the medicine wouldn't work.
0:36:53 > 0:36:57- Millie can soothe pain - by creating a natural antiseptic.
0:36:58 > 0:37:01- It's made from plants - collected from the nearby forest.
0:37:04 > 0:37:06- Take the mango tree, says Millie.
0:37:08 > 0:37:09- It has so many uses.
0:37:11 > 0:37:16- You can scrape the bark - and mix it with hot water and salt.
0:37:18 > 0:37:21- You can gargle with it - to soothe toothache.
0:37:23 > 0:37:26- It can also be used - to treat diarrhoea.
0:37:29 > 0:37:33- Diarrhoea is a very serious complaint - in a village such as this.
0:37:33 > 0:37:35- It can kill small children.
0:37:40 > 0:37:46- Accompanied by her husband, Moses, - Millie collects the plants she needs.
0:37:51 > 0:37:55- She has to travel some distance - to find certain plants.
0:37:55 > 0:37:58- Others grow - in hard-to-reach places...
0:37:58 > 0:38:01- ..such as cliffs and mountain tops.
0:38:06 > 0:38:11- The plants that are hardest - to come by are the most beneficial.
0:38:14 > 0:38:19- The wisdom Millie possesses - is a very powerful thing.
0:38:22 > 0:38:26- However, she's wholly dependent - on the natural pharmacy...
0:38:26 > 0:38:29- ..that grows - in the surrounding woodland.
0:38:31 > 0:38:34- Climate change - threatens this green pharmacy.
0:38:36 > 0:38:42- She has to walk further and further - to find the plants she needs.
0:38:44 > 0:38:48- She is concerned that, one day, - they will stop growing.
0:38:51 > 0:38:54- I've had a fantastic day.
0:38:54 > 0:38:57- It's a day I'll never forget.
0:38:57 > 0:39:00- I came up to Navala...
0:39:01 > 0:39:03- ..to speak to the medicine woman...
0:39:04 > 0:39:06- ..to find out - how she cured illnesses...
0:39:07 > 0:39:10- ..with plants - from the surrounding valley...
0:39:10 > 0:39:12- ..but I found much more than that.
0:39:12 > 0:39:17- The villagers have been hospitable - and they are all contented.
0:39:18 > 0:39:23- There are no western influences, - no money and no luxuries.
0:39:24 > 0:39:27- They have very little - apart from love for each other.
0:39:28 > 0:39:31- I've never seen - such a spirit before.
0:39:32 > 0:39:36- But it isn't just Fiji's mountains - that hide surprises.
0:39:39 > 0:39:41- Its shores hold secrets too.
0:39:42 > 0:39:43- .
0:39:47 > 0:39:47- 888
0:39:47 > 0:39:49- 888- - 888
0:39:54 > 0:39:57- As my journey around Fiji - nears its end...
0:39:57 > 0:40:00- ..I hear the same message - echoing across the islands.
0:40:04 > 0:40:07- The climate is changing - so suddenly...
0:40:08 > 0:40:13- ..that nature can't adapt - quickly enough...
0:40:14 > 0:40:16- ..especially along the coast.
0:40:18 > 0:40:24- Although it looks beautiful here, - there are problems under the surface.
0:40:24 > 0:40:28- The coral reefs, - sand and fish are in danger.
0:40:30 > 0:40:33- As these waters become warmer...
0:40:33 > 0:40:35- ..the coral is dying.
0:40:37 > 0:40:41- Without the reef to protect them - from the ferocity of the sea...
0:40:41 > 0:40:43- ..every beach is in danger.
0:40:46 > 0:40:50- The fragile ecosystem - of Fiji's coast is under threat.
0:40:56 > 0:41:02- Panapasa Namali is on a personal - mission to restore the equilibrium.
0:41:04 > 0:41:08- Safeguarding the Pacific Ocean - is part of his tribe's history.
0:41:10 > 0:41:13- He says he was specifically chosen - by Naka Levu...
0:41:14 > 0:41:16- ..chief of the Nadroga tribe.
0:41:18 > 0:41:23- His ancestors have always enjoyed - a special relationship with the sea.
0:41:27 > 0:41:28- To protect his legacy...
0:41:29 > 0:41:34- ..Panapasa is working - on an ambitious project.
0:41:36 > 0:41:38- The coral is the starting point.
0:41:41 > 0:41:46- The coral defends the beach - by taming the stormy waves...
0:41:46 > 0:41:49- ..before they reach the shore.
0:41:52 > 0:41:55- Panapasa is fully aware - of the reef's importance.
0:41:56 > 0:42:00- When a cyclone or a tsunami - hit the island...
0:42:00 > 0:42:03- ..the reef would protect - the islanders...
0:42:03 > 0:42:05- ..from the damaging force.
0:42:06 > 0:42:10- A healthy reef is also - a thriving habitat for fish.
0:42:12 > 0:42:17- By feeding on the coral, - the fish regenerate the beaches...
0:42:17 > 0:42:19- ..by producing fresh sand.
0:42:20 > 0:42:25- But this naturally-occurring cycle - is fragile.
0:42:28 > 0:42:32- The warm current - produced by El Nino...
0:42:32 > 0:42:35- ..causes the sea's temperature - to rise.
0:42:35 > 0:42:40- The heat is causing reef to die - at a rate never seen before.
0:42:44 > 0:42:48- In some places, - 80% of the coral dies.
0:42:50 > 0:42:55- Without the reefs to sustain them, - fish are disappearing.
0:42:57 > 0:42:59- Without fish to generate new sand...
0:43:00 > 0:43:04- ..the beaches are being washed away, - exposing bare rock.
0:43:07 > 0:43:12- The marine life - that Panapasa used to see...
0:43:12 > 0:43:15- ..has disappeared from the ocean.
0:43:15 > 0:43:18- He says that the waters - have been ravaged.
0:43:20 > 0:43:22- On the island of Moturiki...
0:43:22 > 0:43:27- ..villagers have pioneered a new way - to restore the balance.
0:43:28 > 0:43:31- They've started to farm coral.
0:43:35 > 0:43:41- Islanders grow wild coral cuttings - on plastic boards.
0:43:41 > 0:43:45- Replanting them - will hopefully resurrect the reef.
0:43:49 > 0:43:54- In a year's time, these cuttings - will have doubled in size.
0:43:59 > 0:44:01- By replanting mature coral...
0:44:01 > 0:44:05- ..the fragile reefs - will flourish once again.
0:44:08 > 0:44:10- This is the outcome of the project.
0:44:11 > 0:44:15- The long-term hope is that - the coral will grow naturally...
0:44:15 > 0:44:17- ..out there on the reef.
0:44:19 > 0:44:23- The project offers - a sustainable future for the reefs...
0:44:24 > 0:44:26- ..and a model - that can be replicated.
0:44:35 > 0:44:37- HE SPEAKS FIJIAN
0:44:37 > 0:44:42- Panapasa believes that if islanders - can regenerate the sea...
0:44:42 > 0:44:47- ..by planting coral, the whole world - could learn from their example.
0:44:47 > 0:44:50- What fish did you say?
0:44:50 > 0:44:52- Hopefully a parrot fish.
0:44:54 > 0:44:58- By creating habitats for the fish - on fragile reefs...
0:44:58 > 0:45:02- ..Panapasa gives the fish - an opportunity to return.
0:45:06 > 0:45:09- He's marketing the scheme - as ecotourism.
0:45:13 > 0:45:17- The tourists learn about the shores - as they help to regenerate them.
0:45:21 > 0:45:24- Although it's too early - to see the results...
0:45:24 > 0:45:28- ..initiatives such as these - are fuelling the battle...
0:45:28 > 0:45:30- ..against climate change in Fiji.
0:45:34 > 0:45:38- Panapasa says that we can't - just think of ourselves...
0:45:38 > 0:45:40- ..and about lining our pockets.
0:45:41 > 0:45:44- We have to consider - generations to come.
0:45:47 > 0:45:49- Two questions remain.
0:45:49 > 0:45:51- Is it enough?
0:45:52 > 0:45:54- And has it come too late?
0:45:59 > 0:46:01- Every island is special.
0:46:03 > 0:46:07- The Fijian islands - are among the best in the world.
0:46:09 > 0:46:13- It was a dream to come to Fiji - to see it with my own eyes.
0:46:16 > 0:46:18- I couldn't have chosen - a better place.
0:46:22 > 0:46:26- Fiji's landscape - will live in my memory forever.
0:46:29 > 0:46:32- Its ancient history - is just as striking.
0:46:37 > 0:46:40- Then, of course, - there's the people.
0:46:44 > 0:46:47- It's the people - who make Fiji so special.
0:46:47 > 0:46:51- I've never met - such a hospitable nation.
0:46:51 > 0:46:54- The people are warm and friendly.
0:46:54 > 0:46:58- The word "Bula" - hello - - echoes all around...
0:46:58 > 0:47:02- ..from the high street and the market - to the beach.
0:47:07 > 0:47:13- These people deserve to live in the - natural beauty that surrounds them.
0:47:14 > 0:47:16- They also deserve assurances...
0:47:16 > 0:47:20- ..that the same beauty - will be seen by their children...
0:47:20 > 0:47:23- ..and their children's children.
0:47:23 > 0:47:27- I've seen evidence - that Fiji's climate is changing.
0:47:27 > 0:47:31- I've also met islanders who are - striving to safeguard their legacy.
0:47:32 > 0:47:36- However, Fiji's fate lies - in the hands of the entire world.
0:47:38 > 0:47:41- The eleventh hour is upon us.
0:47:41 > 0:47:44- Are we ready to fight for the cause?
0:48:15 > 0:48:17- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:48:18 > 0:48:18- .