0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- 888- - 888
0:00:06 > 0:00:11- Every island - transports you to another world.
0:00:15 > 0:00:19- Where natural life and the nature - of life have evolved...
0:00:19 > 0:00:22- ..in their own unique way.
0:00:27 > 0:00:32- But due to the pressures of the - modern world, the tide is turning.
0:00:35 > 0:00:38- For better and for worse.
0:00:42 > 0:00:46- In this series, we meet islanders - all over the world.
0:00:49 > 0:00:52- Those who are proud - of their history...
0:00:54 > 0:00:56- ..who preserve their customs...
0:00:58 > 0:01:00- ..and who are patriotic.
0:01:04 > 0:01:07- But globalization - has made it impossible...
0:01:07 > 0:01:10- ..for islanders to stand alone.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13- In many ways, these shores...
0:01:13 > 0:01:17- ..are leading the battle - to save the planet.
0:01:19 > 0:01:24- The island's fate - is critical to us all.
0:01:42 > 0:01:45- A thousand kilometres - from Ecuador's mainland...
0:01:45 > 0:01:47- ..in the glistening Pacific Ocean...
0:01:48 > 0:01:52- ..lies the amazing archipelago - of the Galapagos Islands.
0:01:57 > 0:02:01- Formed after a volcanic eruption - deep under the seabed...
0:02:01 > 0:02:06- ..this is the habitat - of our planet's rarest species.
0:02:09 > 0:02:13- Nature has had to adapt in order - to survive in this environment.
0:02:15 > 0:02:20- It has helped to build man's - understanding of the natural world.
0:02:22 > 0:02:25- I'm going to the Galapagos Islands.
0:02:26 > 0:02:30- I have repeated those words - to myself countless times recently.
0:02:31 > 0:02:35- Whenever I mentioned to friends - who have an interest in nature...
0:02:35 > 0:02:39- ..that I was coming here, - they called me a lucky devil!
0:02:39 > 0:02:42- Without wishing to romanticize...
0:02:42 > 0:02:48- ..it's among the few places on earth - that's still an unspoilt paradise.
0:02:53 > 0:02:57- The wild seas surrounding the - Galapagos were a natural defence.
0:02:58 > 0:03:01- For thousands of years, - this rugged landscape...
0:03:01 > 0:03:03- ..was beyond the reach of man.
0:03:06 > 0:03:09- Up until two centuries ago...
0:03:09 > 0:03:12- ..few people knew - of the islands' existence.
0:03:14 > 0:03:16- But 1835 was the year...
0:03:16 > 0:03:20- ..that changed the course - of the islands' history.
0:03:21 > 0:03:26- Charles Darwin landed here - more or less by chance...
0:03:27 > 0:03:31- ..on his way home - from an expedition to South America.
0:03:31 > 0:03:34- It was during his exploration...
0:03:34 > 0:03:39- ..that Darwin developed his theories - of natural selection and evolution.
0:03:45 > 0:03:47- He began to realize...
0:03:48 > 0:03:53- ..that some of the answers to life's - mysteries could be unlocked here.
0:03:53 > 0:03:57- It took decades before he turned - his early experiences...
0:03:57 > 0:04:00- ..into his theory of evolution.
0:04:00 > 0:04:03- When The Origin Of Species - was published...
0:04:03 > 0:04:09- ..he shattered ancient beliefs - about the world around us.
0:04:09 > 0:04:14- The charm of these remote islands - has enchanted us ever since.
0:04:16 > 0:04:22- Since the Galapagos have shown us - the evolution of the human race...
0:04:22 > 0:04:27- ..they must also be able to show us - what the future has in store.
0:04:33 > 0:04:38- The islands are so important and so - fragile that they must be protected.
0:04:38 > 0:04:42- That's why they are - a World Heritage Site.
0:04:48 > 0:04:51- Man is the stranger - in this habitat.
0:04:51 > 0:04:54- Man was the last creature - to arrive.
0:04:55 > 0:04:59- Neither the native animals - nor the world's rarest birds...
0:05:00 > 0:05:02- ..have learnt to fear us.
0:05:07 > 0:05:10- Until recently, - only a handful of people lived here.
0:05:11 > 0:05:16- These days, the Galapagos Islands - are home to 22,000 inhabitants.
0:05:22 > 0:05:26- Almost half the population - live on the island of Santa Cruz...
0:05:27 > 0:05:29- ..in the town of Puerto Ayora.
0:05:34 > 0:05:38- These days, continuous streams - of people and goods...
0:05:38 > 0:05:42- ..pass through the harbour, - unlike 50 years ago...
0:05:42 > 0:05:46- ..before the steady stream - of incomers arrived.
0:05:51 > 0:05:54- The influx of immigrants...
0:05:54 > 0:05:58- ..has been a contentious issue - in rural Wales for generations.
0:05:59 > 0:06:02- It will be interesting for me - to hear from the son...
0:06:02 > 0:06:06- ..of one of the first families - to settle in the Galapagos.
0:06:07 > 0:06:10- I'm looking forward - to my conversation with Gil De Roy.
0:06:11 > 0:06:13- HE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:06:15 > 0:06:19- In the early days, - the people who came here to live...
0:06:20 > 0:06:22- ..were fleeing the modern world.
0:06:22 > 0:06:26- They craved the simple life, - but more than that, freedom.
0:06:35 > 0:06:39- Gil and his family live on a farm - similar to that of his parents...
0:06:39 > 0:06:44- ..who came here from Belgium - about 50 years ago.
0:06:45 > 0:06:49- Growing up, Gil and his sister - were at one with nature.
0:06:50 > 0:06:52- He's still proud of the fact...
0:06:52 > 0:06:56- ..that he didn't own a pair of shoes - until he was in his twenties.
0:07:00 > 0:07:03- The woods and beaches - were his classroom...
0:07:03 > 0:07:07- ..and he learnt all about - the island's creatures.
0:07:12 > 0:07:16- But Gil De Roy's paradise - was short-lived.
0:07:26 > 0:07:31- As the boy grew into a man, - the tourist industry also grew.
0:07:31 > 0:07:35- Gil seized the opportunity - to use his practical knowledge.
0:07:38 > 0:07:43- He used the family's boat - to start a business as a tour guide.
0:07:43 > 0:07:48- He also explored more of his native - habitat in the company of tourists.
0:07:50 > 0:07:52- I loved sharing my knowledge...
0:07:53 > 0:07:56- ..and getting to know the islands - a little better.
0:07:56 > 0:07:58- It was an invaluable experience.
0:08:06 > 0:08:09- This is the only place on earth...
0:08:09 > 0:08:12- ..that allows man - to connect with wildlife...
0:08:13 > 0:08:15- ..in its natural habitat.
0:08:20 > 0:08:24- This is what attracted - the early tourists.
0:08:24 > 0:08:27- I remind myself that it is people...
0:08:27 > 0:08:30- ..who are the strangers here.
0:08:37 > 0:08:42- But as more and more tourists - came here...
0:08:42 > 0:08:47- ..the thrill of being a tour guide - lost its appeal for Gil.
0:08:47 > 0:08:51- He sought work that enabled him - to spend more time at home.
0:08:52 > 0:08:55- He now earns a living - making jewellery.
0:08:56 > 0:08:59- He's an accomplished - jewellery designer.
0:09:05 > 0:09:07- His creations are sold locally.
0:09:08 > 0:09:13- The inspiration for his fine work - comes from the natural world.
0:09:16 > 0:09:20- But he has to appeal to the tastes - of a wide range of tourists...
0:09:21 > 0:09:23- ..who come to the Galapagos.
0:09:29 > 0:09:33- The number of tourists - increases each year.
0:09:33 > 0:09:38- During the early 1990s, - 60,000 tourists visited annually.
0:09:40 > 0:09:44- That number has since trebled.
0:09:46 > 0:09:51- I'm used to seeing - Snowdonia's paths being eroded.
0:09:52 > 0:09:55- To prevent something similar - happening here...
0:09:55 > 0:10:00- ..the authorities have imposed - restrictions on tourist areas.
0:10:04 > 0:10:07- Gil tells me - that I must be accompanied...
0:10:07 > 0:10:11- ..by a National Park official - before visiting certain sites.
0:10:15 > 0:10:19- But the same rules - also restrict residents' freedom.
0:10:19 > 0:10:23- Visiting the family's old boat - was a strange experience.
0:10:23 > 0:10:26- Gil is no longer allowed - to use the boat.
0:10:29 > 0:10:32- Restrictions have made life awkward.
0:10:32 > 0:10:37- New rules mean that Gil - isn't even allowed to weigh anchor.
0:10:38 > 0:10:42- It's permanently moored here, - trapped like a bird in a cage.
0:10:47 > 0:10:51- All Gil wants is to be able - to live closer to nature...
0:10:51 > 0:10:53- ..as he did previously.
0:10:53 > 0:10:56- He claims to have lost his freedom.
0:10:56 > 0:10:59- A considerable amount of freedom.
0:11:06 > 0:11:08- Gil's bolt-hole...
0:11:08 > 0:11:13- ..is the family home in the hills - beyond the bustle of Puerto Ayora.
0:11:13 > 0:11:17- The family hopes to return - to the simple life.
0:11:20 > 0:11:25- Although he's keen for his daughter - to learn jewellery design...
0:11:25 > 0:11:27- ..he intends to give it up - in future...
0:11:28 > 0:11:33- ..to focus on being self-sufficient, - detached from the outside world.
0:11:39 > 0:11:44- I'm struck with a sense of both - admiration and despair for Gil.
0:11:44 > 0:11:49- He's a quiet yet strong character - who grows his own coffee crop...
0:11:49 > 0:11:52- ..and manages to live frugally.
0:11:56 > 0:12:00- Gil De Roy's goal - is to build his own Utopia.
0:12:00 > 0:12:05- But others have very different aims - for the Galapagos.
0:12:06 > 0:12:06- .
0:12:11 > 0:12:11- 888
0:12:11 > 0:12:13- 888- - 888
0:12:17 > 0:12:21- Geologically, life is a very - recent event on the Galapagos.
0:12:23 > 0:12:29- For millions of years, - these volcanic rocks were barren...
0:12:30 > 0:12:35- ..until seeds carried by the winds - and migrating birds...
0:12:35 > 0:12:37- ..began to sprout.
0:12:42 > 0:12:45- Land animals - were carried by driftwood...
0:12:46 > 0:12:50- ..following heavy floods - in faraway continents.
0:12:53 > 0:12:58- But when people - began to inhabit the islands...
0:12:58 > 0:13:01- ..strange new species - were introduced.
0:13:05 > 0:13:11- Many mice and insects came here - unwittingly, in ships' holds.
0:13:14 > 0:13:17- Others were introduced - intentionally...
0:13:18 > 0:13:21- ..to provide sustenance - for the new population.
0:13:24 > 0:13:27- But the strange animals - posed a serious threat...
0:13:28 > 0:13:30- ..to the islands' native species.
0:13:34 > 0:13:37- Following thousands of years - of separation...
0:13:37 > 0:13:41- ..they were unable to fight - new diseases and compete for food.
0:13:44 > 0:13:48- The giant tortoise - is on the brink of extinction.
0:13:52 > 0:13:56- These days, man's relationship - with the giant tortoise...
0:13:56 > 0:13:58- ..is one of compromise.
0:13:58 > 0:14:00- We're on farmland here.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03- It's inevitable that the tortoise - will eat the crops.
0:14:04 > 0:14:09- If the tortoise is to survive, - then we must learn to coexist.
0:14:09 > 0:14:12- This farmer - has adapted his methods...
0:14:12 > 0:14:17- ..by growing fruits on trees - that tortoises can't reach...
0:14:17 > 0:14:19- ..thus protecting his crops.
0:14:20 > 0:14:22- He also keeps cattle.
0:14:22 > 0:14:26- The barbed wire - has been positioned high enough...
0:14:26 > 0:14:29- ..for the tortoise - to pass underneath it.
0:14:29 > 0:14:31- But as I watch this creature...
0:14:31 > 0:14:35- ..I can't help but think - of thousands of his ancestors...
0:14:36 > 0:14:39- ..that were captured - by sailing vessels...
0:14:39 > 0:14:43- ..to provide food - for the sailors on their voyages.
0:14:43 > 0:14:46- But while this tortoise - is likely to survive...
0:14:47 > 0:14:49- ..it is already too late - for many more.
0:14:56 > 0:14:59- The famous Lonesome George...
0:14:59 > 0:15:03- ..is the only remaining - Pinta tortoise in the world.
0:15:03 > 0:15:06- When he dies, - the species will become extinct.
0:15:09 > 0:15:13- One can only hope that George's fate - will remind tourists...
0:15:14 > 0:15:17- ..of the fragile nature - of these wonders.
0:15:23 > 0:15:28- Nowadays, 150,000 tourists - flock to these shores every year.
0:15:29 > 0:15:31- As tourist numbers increase...
0:15:31 > 0:15:35- ..the very future of these islands - hangs in the balance.
0:15:40 > 0:15:43- I'm just one of the thousands.
0:15:43 > 0:15:47- The Galapagos' astounding appeal - is understandable.
0:15:47 > 0:15:51- Nature is handed to you on a plate.
0:15:58 > 0:16:01- I can stare - right into this pelican's eyes.
0:16:04 > 0:16:09- I think he will tire of me - staring at him...
0:16:09 > 0:16:11- ..before I will tire of him.
0:16:11 > 0:16:13- He's incredible.
0:16:13 > 0:16:18- When you're given the opportunity - to be this close to such a bird...
0:16:18 > 0:16:21- ..you notice how cold his eyes are.
0:16:21 > 0:16:26- I remember reading an article - by Bill Condry in The Guardian...
0:16:26 > 0:16:28- ..about the great blue heron.
0:16:28 > 0:16:31- He said - that by staring into its eyes...
0:16:31 > 0:16:35- ..you can see how they have - descended from dinosaurs.
0:16:36 > 0:16:40- Remembering things like that - is incredibly appropriate...
0:16:40 > 0:16:42- ..here in the Galapagos.
0:16:48 > 0:16:51- That's enough. - It's his place, after all.
0:16:52 > 0:16:55- Yes, the Galapagos Islands - belong to their creatures.
0:16:56 > 0:16:59- But these days, they rely on people - to care for them...
0:16:59 > 0:17:03- ..people like vet Marilyn Cruz.
0:17:03 > 0:17:05- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:17:06 > 0:17:09- She's passionate about animals.
0:17:09 > 0:17:13- She learns something new every day - by being with them.
0:17:18 > 0:17:23- She feels there's an understanding - between the animals and her.
0:17:26 > 0:17:32- When I'm with the sea lions, - I forget everything else.
0:17:32 > 0:17:34- I forget about the world.
0:17:37 > 0:17:39- I focus completely on the animals.
0:17:45 > 0:17:50- The Galapagos' sea lions - are unlikely to become extinct...
0:17:50 > 0:17:52- ..but they are under threat.
0:17:57 > 0:18:00- Rising sea temperatures - and climate change...
0:18:01 > 0:18:04- ..has affected the food chain - in the Galapagos.
0:18:05 > 0:18:10- These days, there are fewer fish - to feed the sea lions...
0:18:10 > 0:18:13- ..and many have died - from disease and famine.
0:18:17 > 0:18:22- Marilyn has created a database - to monitor the sea lions' health.
0:18:25 > 0:18:30- But she's also keen to protect them - from another kind of danger.
0:18:30 > 0:18:32- An unexpected danger.
0:18:34 > 0:18:36- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:18:39 > 0:18:43- Owning a dog has become fashionable - on the islands.
0:18:43 > 0:18:47- They're a problem because they carry - a number of diseases.
0:18:47 > 0:18:52- It's difficult to prevent these - diseases spreading to wildlife.
0:18:53 > 0:18:56- We have to be very cautious.
0:19:01 > 0:19:05- Distemper poses a serious threat.
0:19:06 > 0:19:09- It was first detected in 2001.
0:19:12 > 0:19:14- The disease spreads like wildfire.
0:19:15 > 0:19:20- The disease wreaked havoc last time, - killing 400 dogs.
0:19:23 > 0:19:26- Once the disease takes hold...
0:19:26 > 0:19:31- ..it is easily passed on to other - animals through the dog's saliva.
0:19:34 > 0:19:38- Marilyn worries - that distemper could wipe out...
0:19:38 > 0:19:42- ..the islands' sea lion population.
0:19:47 > 0:19:50- By monitoring - the sea lions' health...
0:19:50 > 0:19:55- ..Marilyn and her team of wardens - hope to prevent an epidemic.
0:19:55 > 0:19:57- SEA LION SCREECHES
0:20:00 > 0:20:03- Catching a sea lion - requires patience.
0:20:03 > 0:20:08- Once it has been caught, - the veterinary work begins.
0:20:11 > 0:20:14- The more information collected...
0:20:14 > 0:20:18- ..the better the chance - of protecting the animals.
0:20:19 > 0:20:24- It's good to know there have been - no cases of distemper detected...
0:20:25 > 0:20:27- ..among the sea lions - of San Cristobal.
0:20:27 > 0:20:32- These are merely - preventative measures...
0:20:32 > 0:20:34- ..to keep diseases at bay.
0:20:35 > 0:20:39- For many, it is the sea lions - that define the Galapagos Islands.
0:20:43 > 0:20:46- It is the pups - that are most at risk...
0:20:46 > 0:20:50- ..because their immune system - has not yet fully developed.
0:20:50 > 0:20:53- Samples of blood, saliva and faeces - are taken.
0:20:53 > 0:20:58- The pups' condition reflects - the health of the entire population.
0:21:01 > 0:21:04- The vet cuts a pattern - in the sea lion's coat...
0:21:05 > 0:21:07- ..to allow them to recognize it - in future.
0:21:12 > 0:21:16- It requires expertise to treat - a wild animal so effortlessly.
0:21:17 > 0:21:21- The work of Marilyn and her team - is commendable.
0:21:26 > 0:21:30- The fresh samples are quickly taken - to the laboratory.
0:21:35 > 0:21:37- If disease is detected...
0:21:37 > 0:21:41- ..they are able to take - immediate action.
0:21:41 > 0:21:45- We must protect our species - for all our sakes.
0:21:45 > 0:21:49- The animals are part - of an evolutionary process...
0:21:49 > 0:21:53- ..the likes of which you won't - find elsewhere in the world.
0:21:54 > 0:21:57- She is laying a foundation - for the future.
0:21:58 > 0:22:01- If the islands' creatures - were struck by disease...
0:22:01 > 0:22:05- ..scientists would come here - to find the answers.
0:22:05 > 0:22:09- This work is important to those - who want to preserve wildlife...
0:22:09 > 0:22:11- ..and the natural world.
0:22:12 > 0:22:14- It's vital to animals and to us...
0:22:14 > 0:22:17- ..because we share that environment - with them.
0:22:22 > 0:22:25- Today, man's intervention - is evident.
0:22:25 > 0:22:29- In the current climate, - that isn't about to change.
0:22:32 > 0:22:36- Puerto Ayora has a population of - 12,000 and its economy is thriving.
0:22:37 > 0:22:40- Jobs and wages here - are better than in Ecuador.
0:22:43 > 0:22:45- Muchas gracias.
0:22:47 > 0:22:48- Gracias.
0:22:48 > 0:22:52- In 2010, due to a sudden rise - in population...
0:22:52 > 0:22:56- ..Ecuador's government - ordered a census of the islands.
0:23:00 > 0:23:05- Schoolchildren - were sent to collect statistics.
0:23:05 > 0:23:09- The information will be used - to plan for the future.
0:23:12 > 0:23:16- It's clear that the town - will have to expand further.
0:23:17 > 0:23:21- Every spare inch of land - is being replaced by concrete.
0:23:31 > 0:23:34- But it has to end somewhere...
0:23:34 > 0:23:38- ..and in this case, - it's the National Park boundary.
0:23:43 > 0:23:46- Before the ink has dried - on the census forms...
0:23:47 > 0:23:50- ..the government - is eager to assert its authority.
0:23:54 > 0:23:59- I'd never met an immigration officer - before coming to the Galapagos...
0:24:00 > 0:24:03- ..let alone seeing someone - such as Erick Sotomayor at work.
0:24:07 > 0:24:10- Erick is the head of a unit - of twelve officers.
0:24:10 > 0:24:16- Each week, they intercept traffic - to check travellers' documents.
0:24:17 > 0:24:21- I'm not comfortable - in this sort of situation...
0:24:21 > 0:24:25- ..but it's a regular occurrence - for the people of the Galapagos.
0:24:26 > 0:24:29- The aim of these spot checks...
0:24:29 > 0:24:33- ..is to catch people - who are working here illegally.
0:24:34 > 0:24:36- They are searching - for drivers today.
0:24:41 > 0:24:44- Immigration is an emotive subject...
0:24:45 > 0:24:49- ..but the authorities are determined - to keep it under control.
0:24:49 > 0:24:52- The vast majority - live here legally.
0:24:53 > 0:24:58- But it's a tough job - to catch all the illegal immigrants.
0:25:00 > 0:25:03- ERICK SPEAKS SPANISH
0:25:03 > 0:25:07- When somebody doesn't have - the relevant papers...
0:25:07 > 0:25:10- ..we check whether they're on - the civic register.
0:25:10 > 0:25:14- That's how we find out whether they - have the right to be here or not.
0:25:20 > 0:25:22- HE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:25:23 > 0:25:24- Muchas gracias.
0:25:25 > 0:25:30- Erick is the officer responsible - for organizing the traffic checks.
0:25:30 > 0:25:32- They only have half an hour.
0:25:32 > 0:25:36- Word travels fast - on such a small island.
0:25:36 > 0:25:39- People are on their mobile phones - straight away.
0:25:39 > 0:25:43- They have to work quickly - then move to a different location.
0:25:44 > 0:25:49- They're only here a short time - before moving elsewhere.
0:25:52 > 0:25:57- According to some, Erick - and the officers are heavy-handed.
0:25:57 > 0:26:01- He acknowledges - that his job is far from easy.
0:26:04 > 0:26:09- Erick tells me that he and his - colleagues have been threatened.
0:26:09 > 0:26:11- Threatened with violence.
0:26:14 > 0:26:19- Erick is called back to the office - to deal with a serious matter.
0:26:20 > 0:26:24- They have caught two people...
0:26:25 > 0:26:28- ..who don't have - the necessary paperwork.
0:26:28 > 0:26:33- I'm here at the office to find out - what's going to happen to them.
0:26:40 > 0:26:42- Two days ago, this young woman...
0:26:42 > 0:26:45- ..was asked to produce - her residency papers.
0:26:46 > 0:26:50- She doesn't have the necessary - documents and has confessed...
0:26:51 > 0:26:54- ..that she is an illegal immigrant.
0:26:57 > 0:27:01- By law, - she must be deported immediately.
0:27:03 > 0:27:08- Erick must ensure that she boards - the next plane to Ecuador.
0:27:09 > 0:27:11- THEY SPEAK SPANISH
0:27:18 > 0:27:23- The police escort her to the - airport, while Erick follows...
0:27:24 > 0:27:28- ..to ensure the deportation - process is carried out.
0:27:32 > 0:27:34- That is his duty.
0:27:35 > 0:27:37- His conscience is clear.
0:27:37 > 0:27:41- He is aware of the dangers - of overpopulation...
0:27:41 > 0:27:44- ..to the islands' unique habitat.
0:27:47 > 0:27:50- If there were no laws - to protect the Galapagos...
0:27:50 > 0:27:55- ..I'm convinced some of our - native species would become extinct.
0:27:56 > 0:27:59- It would be total chaos here.
0:28:00 > 0:28:04- Man would be the only species - to survive.
0:28:14 > 0:28:16- That is his stark message.
0:28:16 > 0:28:18- But Erick isn't made of stone.
0:28:19 > 0:28:23- He knows that there is pain - behind every case like this.
0:28:25 > 0:28:29- It appears that the girl - had come to the Galapagos...
0:28:29 > 0:28:32- ..to escape an unhappy marriage - in Ecuador.
0:28:33 > 0:28:37- When she returns home, she will - be shunned by her community.
0:28:37 > 0:28:40- Her husband - could make life difficult for her.
0:28:41 > 0:28:44- Erick says he will see - what he can do to help her.
0:28:47 > 0:28:50- This is a very poignant story.
0:28:50 > 0:28:54- This girl is being deported - to the mainland...
0:28:54 > 0:28:59- ..but I'm sure you would sympathize - with her plight.
0:28:59 > 0:29:03- But when you consider that - she is one of 1,000 immigrants...
0:29:03 > 0:29:06- ..trying to work here illegally...
0:29:06 > 0:29:09- ..it puts the situation - into context.
0:29:09 > 0:29:11- The constitution of the Galapagos...
0:29:11 > 0:29:17- ..is very strict towards those - who work and live here illegally.
0:29:17 > 0:29:20- Some argue that it contravenes - their human rights.
0:29:21 > 0:29:26- But abolishing immigration control - could cause an economic collapse...
0:29:27 > 0:29:30- ..and would certainly cause - an ecological collapse.
0:29:35 > 0:29:35- z/.
0:29:39 > 0:29:39- 888
0:29:39 > 0:29:41- 888- - 888
0:29:44 > 0:29:46- Santa Cruz - was my first port of call.
0:29:47 > 0:29:51- It's now time to visit - some of the less populated islands.
0:29:54 > 0:29:56- I'm heading to Isabela.
0:29:58 > 0:30:03- The sea horse-shaped island - is the largest in the chain.
0:30:09 > 0:30:11- It only has 4,000 inhabitants.
0:30:11 > 0:30:14- They only moved there - relatively recently.
0:30:16 > 0:30:22- Puerto Villamil is Isabela's - most populated village.
0:30:22 > 0:30:26- It's here that you get a sense - of the way the islands were...
0:30:26 > 0:30:31- ..before the boom in tourism - happened some 20 years ago...
0:30:32 > 0:30:34- ..and transformed other islands.
0:30:34 > 0:30:37- The atmosphere is calmer - and more laid back.
0:30:37 > 0:30:42- In that respect, - I feel much more at home here.
0:30:42 > 0:30:48- But even here in Villamil, - the winds of change are blowing.
0:30:51 > 0:30:54- The wildlife and the dream - of a simpler life...
0:30:55 > 0:30:57- ..are what attracted people here.
0:30:59 > 0:31:01- Among them is Mathias Espinosa.
0:31:01 > 0:31:06- He and his wife, Maria Augusta, - have lived here for six years.
0:31:06 > 0:31:10- They both agree that Isabela - is an ideal place to raise a family.
0:31:14 > 0:31:16- The children and I...
0:31:16 > 0:31:19- ..love going to the beach - in the morning.
0:31:19 > 0:31:22- I go there in my pyjamas...
0:31:22 > 0:31:25- ..and sit and watch the animals - do their thing.
0:31:26 > 0:31:28- THEY SPEAK SPANISH
0:31:34 > 0:31:38- The island's beauty has captivated - Mathias and his family.
0:31:40 > 0:31:42- It's their bread and butter too.
0:31:46 > 0:31:49- Mathias is passionate - about Isabela's wildlife.
0:31:49 > 0:31:51- He works as a National Park guide.
0:31:55 > 0:31:59- His biggest pleasure is sharing - this habitat with visitors.
0:31:59 > 0:32:03- It's a joy being in the company - of someone so knowledgeable.
0:32:11 > 0:32:14- But despite - the relaxed atmosphere...
0:32:14 > 0:32:17- ..life on Isabela - isn't all plain sailing.
0:32:18 > 0:32:20- HE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:32:21 > 0:32:26- Mathias complains - about a lack of community spirit.
0:32:26 > 0:32:30- Most islanders still consider - Ecuador as their motherland.
0:32:36 > 0:32:39- It was its fishing industry...
0:32:40 > 0:32:43- ..that lured - many of Isabela's incomers.
0:32:43 > 0:32:46- But greed has ravaged the seas.
0:32:48 > 0:32:53- These days, the National Park - prohibits commercial fishing.
0:32:53 > 0:32:55- Fishermen are facing hardship.
0:32:58 > 0:33:03- It's hoped that tourism will - replace fishing as the main revenue.
0:33:09 > 0:33:12- Puerto Villamil - is now awash with tourists.
0:33:13 > 0:33:16- More and more boats - unload passengers...
0:33:16 > 0:33:19- ..each with dollars to spend.
0:33:25 > 0:33:29- But Mathias worries - that things are moving too fast.
0:33:30 > 0:33:33- HE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:33:33 > 0:33:38- We must rein in the economic growth - and coexist with nature.
0:33:39 > 0:33:42- If we fail to do that, - then the animals will migrate...
0:33:43 > 0:33:45- ..and be replaced by concrete.
0:33:47 > 0:33:50- People are undoubtedly - a part of the problem.
0:33:51 > 0:33:54- Conversely, it's people - who can solve the problem.
0:33:54 > 0:33:59- He wants people to work together - to preserve the beauty.
0:33:59 > 0:34:02- Just like many a Welshman - with a vision...
0:34:02 > 0:34:07- ..Mathias has turned to music - as a medium to spread the message.
0:34:08 > 0:34:10- SHE SINGS IN SPANISH
0:34:15 > 0:34:19- Isabela's waves, beaches, - birds and animals...
0:34:19 > 0:34:22- ..provide the inspiration - for the songs.
0:34:26 > 0:34:28- Music is a powerful medium.
0:34:29 > 0:34:31- It captures the imagination...
0:34:31 > 0:34:36- ..and reaffirms the importance - of protecting the Galapagos.
0:34:37 > 0:34:42- We've been writing and performing - songs for more than 20 years.
0:34:43 > 0:34:47- These days, eight young bands - play with us.
0:34:47 > 0:34:49- They all write their own songs.
0:35:04 > 0:35:07- If we can't strike a balance...
0:35:07 > 0:35:10- ..between people - and the natural world here...
0:35:10 > 0:35:14- ..the human race may as well - go to live on the moon.
0:35:22 > 0:35:26- But the preservation of nature - isn't just confined to the land.
0:35:26 > 0:35:29- The seas - are teeming with marine life.
0:35:33 > 0:35:37- Here, the Pacific's - warm and cold currents collide.
0:35:39 > 0:35:43- The waters are overflowing - with food and nutrients.
0:35:44 > 0:35:48- But man's greed - is evident once again...
0:35:48 > 0:35:51- ..and putting one creature - in danger.
0:35:53 > 0:35:55- The shark.
0:35:59 > 0:36:04- A bowl of the famous shark fin - soup will set you back 100.
0:36:06 > 0:36:11- That price prompts people - to hunt sharks in the cruellest way.
0:36:12 > 0:36:17- The fins are the only thing of value - to these illegal fishermen.
0:36:17 > 0:36:21- It is the shark's fate to be - dissected with a sharp knife...
0:36:21 > 0:36:24- ..and thrown back into the water - to die.
0:36:28 > 0:36:32- The battle to prevent - illegal fishermen begins here...
0:36:32 > 0:36:35- ..at Santa Cruz's radar station...
0:36:35 > 0:36:40- ..where they monitor every vessel - entering Galapagos waters.
0:36:43 > 0:36:46- The Ecuadorian navy - patrols the marine reserve.
0:36:50 > 0:36:54- By working in tandem with - the National Park authorities...
0:36:55 > 0:36:59- ..they receive data from - the headquarters on the mainland.
0:37:00 > 0:37:02- Very good.
0:37:02 > 0:37:05- The radar control centre - in Santa Cruz...
0:37:06 > 0:37:08- ..monitors a vast expanse of sea...
0:37:08 > 0:37:12- ..and thousands of kilometres - of coastline.
0:37:12 > 0:37:16- Once the station - spots a suspicious vessel...
0:37:16 > 0:37:22- ..the Armada del Ecuador is called - to monitor the situation.
0:37:27 > 0:37:29- The Armada - is a division of the navy...
0:37:30 > 0:37:34- ..which has the power to search - any vessel and arrest any seaman...
0:37:35 > 0:37:37- ..suspected of illegal activity.
0:37:40 > 0:37:44- Although commercial fishing - has been prohibited...
0:37:44 > 0:37:49- ..the sharks and their valuable fins - are still under threat.
0:37:52 > 0:37:54- In order to protect the seas...
0:37:54 > 0:37:59- ..the authorities must be - one step ahead of the villains.
0:38:00 > 0:38:04- Sometimes, a keen nose - is better than a beady eye.
0:38:10 > 0:38:12- I've always admired Labradors.
0:38:13 > 0:38:18- But four-year-old Nico - is one in a million.
0:38:18 > 0:38:22- He has been trained to sniff out - shark fins hidden on the boats.
0:38:25 > 0:38:28- Due to the vastness - of the marine reserve...
0:38:29 > 0:38:32- ..Nico's help is required - almost every day.
0:38:32 > 0:38:35- He's used to everything - that his job entails.
0:38:42 > 0:38:45- These days, - as the islands' population grows...
0:38:45 > 0:38:50- ..more and more cargo ships - sail in and out of the ports.
0:38:52 > 0:38:57- They are perfect places to hide - illegal goods such as shark fins.
0:39:01 > 0:39:05- If they are here, - then Nico is sure to sniff them out.
0:39:09 > 0:39:13- Climbing over empty gas canisters - is dangerous.
0:39:13 > 0:39:16- Nico and his master - must tread very carefully.
0:39:20 > 0:39:24- Heavy cargo reaches the Galapagos - on boats like this.
0:39:24 > 0:39:27- They offload the cargo - at San Cristobal harbour.
0:39:28 > 0:39:30- I really admire Nico's skills.
0:39:30 > 0:39:33- There are numerous smells - to contend with...
0:39:34 > 0:39:37- ..including vegetables, - diesel and saltwater.
0:39:37 > 0:39:39- It would be impossible for us.
0:39:39 > 0:39:41- The dog is searching...
0:39:41 > 0:39:46- ..for illegal imports and exports, - but especially exports.
0:39:46 > 0:39:49- There is a trend - in the affluent west...
0:39:49 > 0:39:52- ..to collect rare animals - and birds' eggs.
0:39:52 > 0:39:56- They are sometimes smuggled - onto boats such as this one.
0:39:56 > 0:39:58- People here are relatively poor...
0:39:59 > 0:40:02- ..so they are tempted - by the illegal market.
0:40:02 > 0:40:06- This is the first step - in preventing that.
0:40:08 > 0:40:08- .
0:40:13 > 0:40:13- 888
0:40:13 > 0:40:15- 888- - 888
0:40:19 > 0:40:23- The sea surrounding the Galapagos - is a Mecca for divers.
0:40:23 > 0:40:28- Before coming to the islands, - I completed a scuba diving course.
0:40:32 > 0:40:34- But you have to respect - these waters.
0:40:35 > 0:40:40- The Russian divers I'm with today - are far more experienced than me.
0:40:43 > 0:40:45- Somebody's low air...
0:40:46 > 0:40:48- ..so we just going to get down...
0:40:48 > 0:40:51- The diving trips are expensive...
0:40:52 > 0:40:55- ..but the luxurious boat - is a world away...
0:40:56 > 0:40:57- ..from the sea beneath it.
0:40:58 > 0:41:01- Sometimes, it means disappointment.
0:41:02 > 0:41:05- It would have been very amusing...
0:41:05 > 0:41:09- ..seeing me, - an inexperienced Welshman...
0:41:10 > 0:41:15- ..swimming alongside - the experienced Russian divers.
0:41:15 > 0:41:19- The organizer said - that the current was too strong...
0:41:19 > 0:41:22- ..for an inexperienced swimmer - like myself.
0:41:22 > 0:41:25- I've only spent four days - underwater...
0:41:25 > 0:41:29- ..or rather four dives - at Vivian Quarry.
0:41:29 > 0:41:34- It's a world away - from diving here in the Galapagos.
0:41:36 > 0:41:38- I'm a little disappointed...
0:41:39 > 0:41:42- ..but there's also an element - of relief.
0:41:49 > 0:41:52- The strong current - is the greatest danger.
0:41:53 > 0:41:57- The creatures, including the sharks, - are relatively harmless.
0:42:04 > 0:42:07- But you don't have to be - an experienced scuba diver...
0:42:08 > 0:42:10- ..to get a closer view - of marine life.
0:42:12 > 0:42:16- Thankfully, I'm a better sailor - than I am a diver.
0:42:19 > 0:42:24- Yasmania Llerena is a biologist, - heading a team of scientists...
0:42:24 > 0:42:28- ..who are trying to protect - the young sharks of the Galapagos.
0:42:28 > 0:42:33- Yasmania is creating a database - about the life cycle of sharks.
0:42:35 > 0:42:40- There are 30 native breeds of shark - in the islands' waters.
0:42:40 > 0:42:42- We know very little about them.
0:42:42 > 0:42:44- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:42:45 > 0:42:49- It's essential that we study - the sharks of the Galapagos...
0:42:49 > 0:42:54- ..to understand the relationship - between the species.
0:42:58 > 0:43:01- But catching a shark requires skill.
0:43:05 > 0:43:10- They are restless creatures that - are only still when giving birth.
0:43:14 > 0:43:17- The best place to catch them - is in a shark nursery...
0:43:18 > 0:43:22- ..in order to collect samples - and fit an electronic tag.
0:43:25 > 0:43:31- Although it's time-consuming work, - Yasmania never complains.
0:43:31 > 0:43:33- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:43:35 > 0:43:39- I'm at my happiest - when I'm at one with nature...
0:43:40 > 0:43:44- ..especially when I'm with sharks, - because they're incredible.
0:43:44 > 0:43:47- I learn something new every day - at the reserve.
0:43:54 > 0:43:57- The shark is at the top - of the food chain...
0:43:57 > 0:44:00- ..so if the population is healthy - in these waters...
0:44:01 > 0:44:04- ..the other marine life - is healthy too.
0:44:10 > 0:44:12- Once the tag has been fitted....
0:44:12 > 0:44:16- ..it's important to ensure - that the shark has recovered...
0:44:18 > 0:44:22- ..and is able to swim well enough - to avoid danger.
0:44:32 > 0:44:36- My tour of the Galapagos - is drawing to an end...
0:44:36 > 0:44:41- ..but the visit to my final island - promises a special experience.
0:44:43 > 0:44:46- This is the real Galapagos.
0:44:46 > 0:44:50- The wild islands that have - never been touched by man.
0:44:51 > 0:44:53- This is North Seymour Island.
0:44:53 > 0:44:58- I'm already sensing that this - is going to be a special experience.
0:45:04 > 0:45:09- I never thought I'd say I was - used to seeing marine iguanas.
0:45:15 > 0:45:18- But on the arid terrain - of North Seymour...
0:45:18 > 0:45:22- ..I caught my first glimpse - of the land iguana.
0:45:24 > 0:45:26- As I watched him...
0:45:26 > 0:45:30- ..I was again reminded - that I'm the stranger here.
0:45:36 > 0:45:39- The booby - is an accomplished fisherman...
0:45:40 > 0:45:43- ..despite sharing its name - with a stupid person.
0:45:44 > 0:45:47- It's also a rare chance - to see the Galapagos dove.
0:45:50 > 0:45:55- It was the beginning of December - and an unusual time to see chicks.
0:45:55 > 0:45:59- But the seasons here - are unlike our own.
0:46:02 > 0:46:07- Frigate birds inflate their red - pouches during the mating season.
0:46:07 > 0:46:10- But during the rearing season, - scientists now believe...
0:46:10 > 0:46:14- ..that it summons the hen back - to her nest to feed her chicks...
0:46:17 > 0:46:21- ..further proof that we have - much to learn about these islands.
0:46:22 > 0:46:24- THE SEA LION BARKS
0:46:26 > 0:46:30- Charles Darwin spent five weeks - here in the Galapagos.
0:46:30 > 0:46:35- Following 20 years of reflection, - The Origin Of Species was published.
0:46:35 > 0:46:40- It revolutionized the way - we looked at the natural world.
0:46:40 > 0:46:46- I will also reflect on my time here - and cherish the memories.
0:46:48 > 0:46:53- But don't think I'm comparing myself - to Charles Darwin.
0:46:54 > 0:46:56- I'm merely following - in the footsteps of a giant.
0:46:57 > 0:47:00- These islands have created - a lasting impression on me...
0:47:01 > 0:47:03- ..in terms of the wildlife - and also the people.
0:47:04 > 0:47:07- They show great care and passion - for the islands.
0:47:08 > 0:47:10- If there's a lesson to be learnt...
0:47:11 > 0:47:14- ..then we should follow - the islanders' example...
0:47:14 > 0:47:17- ..and preserve the natural legacy.
0:47:18 > 0:47:20- There might then be a future - for us...
0:47:21 > 0:47:24- ..and the beautiful diversity - of nature.
0:48:10 > 0:48:12- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:48:12 > 0:48:13- .