0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- 888- - 888
0:00:07 > 0:00:10- Every island - transports you to another world.
0:00:13 > 0:00:16- Where natural life - and the nature of life...
0:00:17 > 0:00:20- ..have evolved - in their own unique way.
0:00:21 > 0:00:24- But due to the pressures - of the modern world...
0:00:25 > 0:00:27- ..the tide is turning.
0:00:29 > 0:00:33- For better and for worse.
0:00:38 > 0:00:41- In this series, we meet islanders - all over the world.
0:00:42 > 0:00:45- People who are proud - of their history...
0:00:46 > 0:00:48- ..those who preserve - their customs...
0:00:51 > 0:00:54- ..and those who are patriotic.
0:00:56 > 0:00:58- But due to globalization...
0:00:58 > 0:01:02- ..it's impossible for islanders - to stand alone.
0:01:04 > 0:01:06- In many ways...
0:01:06 > 0:01:10- ..these shores are leading - the battle to save the planet.
0:01:12 > 0:01:14- The island's fate - is critical to us all.
0:01:35 > 0:01:39- Just below the equator, - close to the East African coast...
0:01:39 > 0:01:41- ..lies an island - with an enchanting name.
0:01:42 > 0:01:43- Zanzibar.
0:01:45 > 0:01:49- Made up of a cluster of islands - and coral reefs...
0:01:49 > 0:01:52- ..it has two main islands, - Unguja and Pemba.
0:01:58 > 0:02:00- A million inhabitants...
0:02:00 > 0:02:04- ..are trying to escape - some of the horrors of the past.
0:02:07 > 0:02:11- The majority are Swahili - who follow the Islamic faith.
0:02:15 > 0:02:21- The island has been influenced - by many cultures through the ages.
0:02:25 > 0:02:27- For a journalist like myself...
0:02:28 > 0:02:32- ..the big story is the impact - of those influences.
0:02:33 > 0:02:36- Zanzibar became famous - as a trading port for slaves....
0:02:37 > 0:02:39- ..and exotic spices.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43- Cloves, turmeric...
0:02:43 > 0:02:45- ..cinnamon and black pepper.
0:02:50 > 0:02:53- Zanzibar was formerly called - the Spice Islands.
0:02:53 > 0:02:57- The winds that help steer - this ship to shore...
0:02:57 > 0:03:01- ..once turned this archipelago...
0:03:02 > 0:03:04- ..into East Africa's - main trading centre.
0:03:04 > 0:03:09- These same winds brought Arabs, - the Portuguese and Britons here.
0:03:09 > 0:03:13- All these influences - are still evident today.
0:03:15 > 0:03:17- CROWD CHEERS
0:03:22 > 0:03:24- As they celebrate independence...
0:03:24 > 0:03:28- ..people are still mindful - of the servitude of the past.
0:03:30 > 0:03:33- As we've been told - by those who remember...
0:03:33 > 0:03:37- ..a bloody interracial conflict - erupted in 1964.
0:03:46 > 0:03:50- After almost half a century - of troubles...
0:03:50 > 0:03:54- ..poverty and sickness levels - are worse than ever.
0:03:57 > 0:04:01- New industries such as tourism - may appear attractive...
0:04:02 > 0:04:05- ..but there is a risk - of further exploitation.
0:04:05 > 0:04:10- Ordinary people rarely reap - the rewards gained from tourism.
0:04:13 > 0:04:17- These exclusive resorts - are islands of a different kind.
0:04:18 > 0:04:22- But there are those - who are instigating change.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26- It's hard work for meagre wages...
0:04:27 > 0:04:30- ..but they are starting - to lay new foundations.
0:04:30 > 0:04:35- Zanzibar now has a chance - to turn the tide once and for all.
0:04:40 > 0:04:44- Zanzibar City on Unguja - is the islands' capital city.
0:04:44 > 0:04:50- A culturally diverse city - has evolved from the old town.
0:04:53 > 0:04:58- New skills have since surfaced, - though the old crafts still remain.
0:05:04 > 0:05:06- Stone Town is the old city.
0:05:07 > 0:05:10- This was the Arab Empire's - commercial centre.
0:05:10 > 0:05:15- The Arabs' wealth was dependent - on the slave and spice trades.
0:05:15 > 0:05:18- Today, they are historic remains.
0:05:22 > 0:05:26- You can tell a lot about a place's - history from its architecture.
0:05:27 > 0:05:31- But in order to get a feel - for a country's character...
0:05:32 > 0:05:34- ..you have to meet its people.
0:05:37 > 0:05:41- People like the songstress - and dancer, Bi Kidude.
0:05:42 > 0:05:44- She's preserving - cultural traditions.
0:05:45 > 0:05:50- But morally, in a Muslim country, - she has blazed her own trail.
0:05:52 > 0:05:55- She has also broken - many of the rules.
0:06:00 > 0:06:02- I smoke Embassy, she tells me.
0:06:04 > 0:06:06- I used to drink a long time ago too.
0:06:09 > 0:06:13- Some say she's over a hundred, - but she claims to be in her 80s.
0:06:13 > 0:06:16- She is well known in Zanzibar.
0:06:16 > 0:06:20- She preserves a traditional form - of singing called Tarab.
0:06:21 > 0:06:23- SINGS IN SWAHILI
0:06:31 > 0:06:35- Although she is from - an ordinary neighbourhood...
0:06:35 > 0:06:38- ..she has sung all over the world.
0:06:39 > 0:06:41- SHE SPEAKS SWAHILI
0:06:41 > 0:06:46- In the beginning, I went to Germany, - Hamburg, Berlin, France...
0:06:46 > 0:06:49- ..Japan, Finland, Sweden.
0:06:49 > 0:06:53- Wherever you can think of, - I've been there.
0:06:55 > 0:06:57- I've been to Italy, you know!
0:07:05 > 0:07:08- Despite her age, - Bi continues to perform.
0:07:18 > 0:07:22- Tarab combines Arabic music - with Swahili songs about life.
0:07:25 > 0:07:29- It's yet another reflection - of Zanzibar's colourful history.
0:07:33 > 0:07:36- Nowadays, - she's able to sing in public.
0:07:36 > 0:07:38- But in the early days...
0:07:38 > 0:07:42- ..she sang and danced aboard - the ships of the Arab masters.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46- Back then, - women had to adhere to the rules.
0:07:46 > 0:07:48- SHE SPEAKS SWAHILI
0:07:51 > 0:07:54- Back in the old days, - you had to do this.
0:07:56 > 0:07:58- You had to cover your face.
0:08:01 > 0:08:03- We don't have to do that any more.
0:08:03 > 0:08:06- We want the audience to see us.
0:08:15 > 0:08:18- But the songs were much more - than mere entertainment.
0:08:20 > 0:08:23- They were a way - of fighting for one's rights.
0:08:25 > 0:08:29- In a song called Kijiti, - Bi sings about the injustice...
0:08:29 > 0:08:32- ..of a pregnant woman - who was murdered.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38- "Look at what Kijiti did" - goes the song.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45- She went with a visitor - into the wilderness...
0:08:46 > 0:08:48- ..and she came back dead.
0:09:08 > 0:09:12- A century after Kijiti was written, - women are still suffering.
0:09:13 > 0:09:16- They still don't have equal rights.
0:09:20 > 0:09:25- They are expected to obey their - fathers, to hide their bodies...
0:09:25 > 0:09:28- ..and to behave respectfully.
0:09:28 > 0:09:32- It's their duty to do their best - to please their husbands...
0:09:33 > 0:09:35- ..and to learn how to achieve this.
0:09:35 > 0:09:40- Thanks to Bi Kidude, I'm able - to watch a traditional ceremony.
0:09:40 > 0:09:43- It's usually held in private.
0:09:52 > 0:09:56- Aided by Bi Kidude - and a stiff drink...
0:09:56 > 0:10:01- ..the girls prepare for - an important initiation ceremony.
0:10:13 > 0:10:18- As a rule, only women are allowed - to witness the unyago ceremony.
0:10:21 > 0:10:24- It prepares a young girl - for marriage...
0:10:24 > 0:10:27- ..and the next chapter of her life.
0:10:36 > 0:10:39- Bi tells me - that first they cleanse her...
0:10:39 > 0:10:43- ..then she's taught how to behave - and how to make her husband's bed.
0:10:44 > 0:10:48- The role of the wife is to treat - and care for her husband.
0:10:55 > 0:10:58- To the enchanting beats - of the drum...
0:10:58 > 0:11:01- ..they show her - exactly how to behave in bed.
0:11:04 > 0:11:08- Men aren't usually allowed - anywhere near the unyago ceremony.
0:11:08 > 0:11:11- A part of the ritual - is performed in public...
0:11:12 > 0:11:14- ..but this part is held in private.
0:11:19 > 0:11:22- I doubt they are carrying on - the way they usually do...
0:11:22 > 0:11:24- ..but I'm privileged to be here.
0:11:25 > 0:11:29- The ceremony also teaches - another kind of wisdom.
0:11:29 > 0:11:34- The girls learn how to handle - a difficult or cruel husband...
0:11:34 > 0:11:38- ..and how to survive married life.
0:11:38 > 0:11:41- There is a strong bond - between these women.
0:11:42 > 0:11:46- Bi Kidude is worried - that the old ways are dying out.
0:11:49 > 0:11:50- When I die...
0:11:50 > 0:11:55- ..if no-one's around to maintain it, - the tradition will be lost.
0:11:57 > 0:11:59- Since she has passed on - the knowledge...
0:12:00 > 0:12:04- ..the unyago may still - have a place in the modern world.
0:12:06 > 0:12:06- .
0:12:10 > 0:12:10- 888
0:12:10 > 0:12:12- 888- - 888
0:12:20 > 0:12:25- Like many other African countries, - Zanzibar is again at a crossroads.
0:12:26 > 0:12:29- This is one of the most - important dates in the calendar.
0:12:30 > 0:12:34- It's a reminder of the revolution - that gave Zanzibar independence.
0:12:34 > 0:12:37- But today is even more important.
0:12:37 > 0:12:41- The two main parties - have merged to form one government.
0:12:41 > 0:12:44- People are hopeful - of a new beginning.
0:12:50 > 0:12:55- Since 1964, one party had formed - the Revolutionary Government.
0:12:55 > 0:13:00- This show of power has attracted - thousands of supporters.
0:13:00 > 0:13:04- But that power - has since been divided.
0:13:04 > 0:13:08- The pageant is an attempt - to assert power and authority...
0:13:09 > 0:13:11- ..and to instil fear.
0:13:11 > 0:13:15- The same uniforms were worn - by the old British Army...
0:13:15 > 0:13:19- ..but there are no white faces - among the dignitaries here.
0:13:20 > 0:13:23- The focus is entirely on Africa.
0:13:23 > 0:13:25- HE SPEAKS SWAHILI
0:13:30 > 0:13:33- When election results - can be fixed...
0:13:33 > 0:13:36- ..there's no need - for rousing speeches.
0:13:36 > 0:13:39- This is more of an annual report - by the President.
0:13:40 > 0:13:44- It sums up what has been done - and sets out future promises.
0:13:44 > 0:13:47- All the excitement - proves too much for some.
0:13:50 > 0:13:52- The speeches tend to drag on...
0:13:52 > 0:13:56- ..longer than the formalities - in a Welsh chapel service.
0:13:57 > 0:14:00- An Anglo-Welshman - called Lloyd William Matthews...
0:14:00 > 0:14:03- ..trained Zanzibar's first army.
0:14:03 > 0:14:06- Unfortunately, - he didn't train the orators.
0:14:07 > 0:14:09- They are devoid of humour.
0:14:09 > 0:14:11- HE SPEAKS SWAHILI
0:14:15 > 0:14:19- But there is a long history behind - these revolution celebrations.
0:14:32 > 0:14:34- A little over 300 years ago...
0:14:35 > 0:14:38- ..after years of trading - in Zanzibar...
0:14:38 > 0:14:41- ..the Arab Omani Empire - became its rulers.
0:14:43 > 0:14:46- Their wealth was largely acquired - by the slave trade.
0:14:47 > 0:14:51- Many inhabitants today - are the descendants of those slaves.
0:14:58 > 0:15:00- Beauty hides many flaws.
0:15:00 > 0:15:03- The ornate entrance - is a sign of wealth.
0:15:04 > 0:15:09- This is the house of Tippu Tip, - who was a notorious slave trader.
0:15:09 > 0:15:11- Less than 150 years ago...
0:15:12 > 0:15:16- ..he brought thousands of people - from the Congo to be sold here.
0:15:22 > 0:15:27- A part of the old slave market - has been turned into a museum.
0:15:49 > 0:15:55- Only by being here - do you get a sense of the atrocity.
0:15:55 > 0:15:58- In this small cell, - 75 women and children...
0:15:59 > 0:16:02- ..would have been confined - for days at a time...
0:16:02 > 0:16:05- ..with no food or water...
0:16:05 > 0:16:08- ..and no channel for the sewage.
0:16:08 > 0:16:11- The weak would die - and the strong would be sold.
0:16:12 > 0:16:16- They would have walked for thousands - of miles across Africa...
0:16:16 > 0:16:19- ..with chains around their necks...
0:16:20 > 0:16:22- ..one human in each metal collar.
0:16:26 > 0:16:31- More than 15,000 slaves a year - would have passed through Zanzibar.
0:16:34 > 0:16:36- Many would have stayed here...
0:16:36 > 0:16:40- ..to work on their Arab masters' - clove plantations.
0:16:48 > 0:16:53- This modern sculpture portrays - the slave trade over a century ago.
0:16:53 > 0:16:59- In 1964, some of the consequences - of slavery and oppression...
0:16:59 > 0:17:03- ..surfaced once again - with yet more bloodshed.
0:17:09 > 0:17:11- 12th January, 1964.
0:17:11 > 0:17:16- The Africans turned on the Arabs - and their government...
0:17:16 > 0:17:18- ..who had the support of Britain.
0:17:22 > 0:17:25- It was a day of murder - and destruction.
0:17:29 > 0:17:35- Overnight, 17,000 Arabs and other - ethnic minorities were murdered.
0:17:41 > 0:17:44- The rest of the world - paid little attention.
0:17:44 > 0:17:48- This film is the only proof - of what happened here.
0:17:49 > 0:17:54- A bloody victory secured power - for the African natives.
0:17:57 > 0:18:02- The wealthy Arabs who managed - to escape the massacre...
0:18:02 > 0:18:04- ..fled for their lives.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09- Two months after the revolution...
0:18:09 > 0:18:15- ..Zanzibar's new African governors - joined Tanganyika on the mainland...
0:18:15 > 0:18:19- ..to form the new republic - of Tanzania.
0:18:19 > 0:18:21- GUNFIRE
0:18:21 > 0:18:26- But violence and politics - have gone hand in hand since then.
0:18:26 > 0:18:30- The Revolutionary Government - has been accused of tyranny.
0:18:31 > 0:18:36- But last year, the two main parties - decided to work together.
0:18:36 > 0:18:40- There was a referendum to form - a government of national unity.
0:18:41 > 0:18:44- They were the first-ever - non-violent elections.
0:18:48 > 0:18:52- Many believe that this - is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.
0:18:58 > 0:19:02- It gives more of a voice - to the people of Pemba...
0:19:02 > 0:19:06- ..where the effects - of the revolution are still evident.
0:19:13 > 0:19:17- This clove farmer, Abdallah Nassor - Abdallah, was there that night.
0:19:18 > 0:19:20- He lost his friends - and his possessions.
0:19:20 > 0:19:24- He has witnessed the decline - of the spice trade.
0:19:27 > 0:19:29- The Arabs had turned Pemba...
0:19:29 > 0:19:34- ..into the world's largest - commercial clove-producing centre.
0:19:35 > 0:19:39- The buds from the flowers - of the clove tree are dried.
0:19:39 > 0:19:43- They're used in cookery, - medicine and perfume.
0:19:43 > 0:19:47- They also boosted - Zanzibar's economy.
0:19:50 > 0:19:54- Following the revolution, the land - was divided between the natives.
0:19:56 > 0:19:59- But practical knowledge was lost...
0:19:59 > 0:20:02- ..and many clove trees have died - as a consequence.
0:20:04 > 0:20:06- MAN SPEAKS SWAHILI
0:20:08 > 0:20:10- Abdallah tells me...
0:20:10 > 0:20:14- ..that clove trees flourished - on this farm.
0:20:14 > 0:20:18- But now, only a third - of the plantation is left.
0:20:20 > 0:20:25- This is how you harvest - and separate the cloves.
0:20:25 > 0:20:28- But difficulties arose...
0:20:28 > 0:20:31- ..when the government - took control of the trade.
0:20:34 > 0:20:37- We have to sell our cloves - to the government.
0:20:37 > 0:20:40- We don't have any choice - in the matter.
0:20:40 > 0:20:44- We can't sell them ourselves - to people from outside.
0:20:46 > 0:20:50- Though the harvest - is much less than it once was...
0:20:50 > 0:20:56- ..many thousands of tons of cloves - are processed in Pemba.
0:20:58 > 0:21:02- Cloves make up almost half - of Zanzibar's economic production.
0:21:02 > 0:21:06- But the farmers - are dismayed and disheartened.
0:21:09 > 0:21:12- From our point of view, - the price is too low.
0:21:13 > 0:21:15- It doesn't meet our demands.
0:21:20 > 0:21:24- The farmers are only getting - half the market price.
0:21:25 > 0:21:30- Though the situation has improved - under the coalition government...
0:21:30 > 0:21:32- ..it is difficult - to make ends meet.
0:21:33 > 0:21:37- Due to the low prices, some farmers - are turning to the black market.
0:21:43 > 0:21:47- Abdallah has never smuggled, - and as such is unsure of the price.
0:21:51 > 0:21:55- But other farmers smuggle cloves - overseas to Kenya.
0:21:58 > 0:22:03- Sometimes, they are caught and - their boats and cloves confiscated.
0:22:03 > 0:22:06- They are then imprisoned.
0:22:17 > 0:22:21- For 150 years, the Arabs' wealth - was derived from cloves.
0:22:21 > 0:22:25- But with the government - now controlling the trade...
0:22:25 > 0:22:31- ..farmers are seriously concerned - about the industry's future.
0:22:33 > 0:22:34- .
0:22:37 > 0:22:37- 888
0:22:37 > 0:22:39- 888- - 888
0:22:41 > 0:22:45- The sea facilitated trade links - with Zanzibar...
0:22:45 > 0:22:49- ..but half the population - now lives in abject poverty.
0:22:49 > 0:22:54- These islanders hope that new wealth - will come from overseas...
0:22:55 > 0:22:58- ..in the form of tourists.
0:23:00 > 0:23:04- There's no need to ask what the - fastest growing industry is here.
0:23:04 > 0:23:09- Tourism offers new business - and employment opportunities.
0:23:09 > 0:23:11- But it needs to be regulated...
0:23:12 > 0:23:15- ..to ensure local people - profit from it.
0:23:19 > 0:23:22- At the Forodhani night market - in Stone Town...
0:23:23 > 0:23:27- ..resident stallholders - prepare food for the tourists.
0:23:31 > 0:23:35- All these diverse cultures - come together...
0:23:35 > 0:23:40- ..amid the smoke and the various - sights and sounds of the capital.
0:23:40 > 0:23:43- It's no longer a town for the rich.
0:23:43 > 0:23:46- With a new tourist trade...
0:23:46 > 0:23:48- ..and a change in attitude...
0:23:48 > 0:23:51- ..the old and the new - are coming together.
0:23:52 > 0:23:55- But the real wealth - isn't to be found in Forodhani.
0:23:56 > 0:24:01- Most visitors stay - at the purpose-built resorts.
0:24:02 > 0:24:05- They fly in, stay there, - and fly back out again.
0:24:08 > 0:24:11- They see nothing of the island - apart from the beaches...
0:24:12 > 0:24:15- ..and ordinary islanders - rarely see their dollars.
0:24:22 > 0:24:25- But far from the beaches - and the airport...
0:24:26 > 0:24:28- ..some locals offer holidaymakers...
0:24:29 > 0:24:32- ..authentic Zanzibari experiences...
0:24:33 > 0:24:37- ..that respect the environment - and way of life.
0:24:42 > 0:24:45- In the village of Jendele...
0:24:45 > 0:24:48- ..in the centre - of the main island...
0:24:48 > 0:24:51- ..Mustafa Makame - organizes excursions...
0:24:51 > 0:24:56- ..to show the link between wildlife - and his people's history.
0:24:57 > 0:25:02- One of the attractions - of the Ufufuma Forest...
0:25:02 > 0:25:07- ..are the red colobus monkeys, - some of Africa's rarest animals.
0:25:13 > 0:25:16- They are unique to Zanzibar.
0:25:16 > 0:25:21- Tourists can learn about much more - by coming to observe them.
0:25:23 > 0:25:27- First, the forest must be cleared - to give easy access.
0:25:28 > 0:25:30- The billhook comes in handy.
0:25:30 > 0:25:34- You can understand - why every home has one of these.
0:25:34 > 0:25:38- It's used to clear paths or to kill - snakes and other creatures.
0:25:39 > 0:25:43- I have some way to go before I win - the briar-chopping championships!
0:25:47 > 0:25:52- But perhaps I'll be aided - by the witch doctor.
0:25:52 > 0:25:55- Many local people - still have faith in them.
0:25:55 > 0:25:59- Perhaps the witch doctor - can help make dreams come true.
0:25:59 > 0:26:03- Through him, I can talk - to the spirit world.
0:26:03 > 0:26:05- I ask for something...
0:26:05 > 0:26:09- ..and the spirits - will ask for something in return.
0:26:14 > 0:26:17- I don't know - exactly what's going on here...
0:26:18 > 0:26:22- ..but we've come into the forest, - to a cave possessed by spirits.
0:26:22 > 0:26:25- I'm about to ask the witch doctor...
0:26:26 > 0:26:30- ..whether the spirits - can bring luck to Mustafa's project.
0:26:30 > 0:26:32- Let's see what happens.
0:26:36 > 0:26:38- HE SPEAKS SWAHILI
0:26:41 > 0:26:46- They say the witch doctor's spells - aren't effective for white people.
0:26:46 > 0:26:51- In order for them to work, you have - to believe in the man's power.
0:26:53 > 0:26:57- But in the dark cave, surrounded - by the aroma of incense...
0:26:57 > 0:27:02- ..it's easy to believe that - the ritual would have an impact.
0:27:02 > 0:27:04- THEY SPEAK SWAHILI
0:27:04 > 0:27:09- The only word I understood - was "pesa", which means money.
0:27:09 > 0:27:12- That goes to show - that the spirits are wise.
0:27:23 > 0:27:27- We use the money - generated by tourism...
0:27:27 > 0:27:30- ..to help the community - as much as we can.
0:27:32 > 0:27:35- It's helped us to get electricity - in Jendele.
0:27:38 > 0:27:41- The school - has also had books and pencils.
0:27:45 > 0:27:48- Families have been helped - to send their children here.
0:27:53 > 0:27:56- Tourism is still - a fledgling industry in Ufufuma.
0:27:57 > 0:28:00- Without funds, - it's difficult to advertise.
0:28:00 > 0:28:05- But they've already made a small - contribution to people's lives.
0:28:05 > 0:28:09- Tourism could be the way forward.
0:28:12 > 0:28:14- Mustafa is keen to attract tourists.
0:28:15 > 0:28:19- But on one of the smaller islands, - people are wary of outsiders.
0:28:22 > 0:28:27- The island of Tumbatu is only - 1 miles from the main island...
0:28:27 > 0:28:30- ..but, culturally, - it's a world away.
0:28:35 > 0:28:37- People here - have kept their distance.
0:28:37 > 0:28:39- There have been few tourists...
0:28:40 > 0:28:43- ..and no other camera crew - has been allowed to film there.
0:28:49 > 0:28:55- This was once Zanzibar's capital, - but the people here are different.
0:29:03 > 0:29:06- Tumbatu natives - believe they are descendants...
0:29:07 > 0:29:11- ..of the first Persian kings - who came in the 10th century.
0:29:11 > 0:29:16- They are devout Muslims, afraid - of the influences of tourism...
0:29:16 > 0:29:21- ..despite having little else - to improve their standard of living.
0:29:22 > 0:29:25- They aren't used to the camera...
0:29:25 > 0:29:28- ..but are pleased to be able - to finally tell their story.
0:29:36 > 0:29:40- The Tumbatu people are among - the best seafarers in East Africa.
0:29:40 > 0:29:44- They are descended from the Persians - whose dhows landed centuries ago.
0:29:48 > 0:29:52- For local men, the sea - is about the only source of income.
0:29:59 > 0:30:00- Despite his seamanship...
0:30:01 > 0:30:04- ..Suleiman Mohammed Haji - lives from hand to mouth.
0:30:07 > 0:30:10- His small canoe - only allows him to fish...
0:30:10 > 0:30:15- ..in the sea surrounding Tumbatu, - where fish are becoming scarce.
0:30:21 > 0:30:25- Sometimes the cage is empty, - so he goes without food.
0:30:31 > 0:30:36- He tells me that the sea is his - source of income and sustenance.
0:30:36 > 0:30:39- If I don't catch any fish, - I have no other means.
0:30:40 > 0:30:43- No other means of earning a living.
0:30:45 > 0:30:50- With three wives and a large family, - I'm under pressure to catch fish.
0:30:55 > 0:30:58- Suleiman's situation isn't unusual.
0:31:00 > 0:31:03- Around 4,000 people - live on the island...
0:31:04 > 0:31:08- ..where the poverty - and limited resources are evident.
0:31:11 > 0:31:16- But the islanders are very proud - of their culture and religion.
0:31:21 > 0:31:24- Religion is another element - ruling their lives here.
0:31:24 > 0:31:27- CALL TO PRAYER
0:31:29 > 0:31:32- The Arabs brought Islam to Zanzibar.
0:31:32 > 0:31:35- It's the islands' main religion...
0:31:37 > 0:31:39- ..especially in Tumbatu.
0:31:39 > 0:31:42- Men pray five times a day...
0:31:42 > 0:31:45- ..and cleanse before each session.
0:31:51 > 0:31:55- According to their leader, - Mwadini Makame...
0:31:55 > 0:31:57- ..it is their faith - that sets them apart.
0:31:58 > 0:32:00- HE SPEAKS SWAHILI
0:32:02 > 0:32:04- In today's Zanzibari society...
0:32:04 > 0:32:09- ..the people of Tumbatu - are never guilty of misbehaving...
0:32:09 > 0:32:13- ..because we follow our faith - and culture.
0:32:18 > 0:32:23- Visitors swim in the sea and lie - on beaches wearing only swimsuits.
0:32:24 > 0:32:29- Local people have started copying - the visitors' behaviour.
0:32:29 > 0:32:31- That's why I fear tourism.
0:32:35 > 0:32:38- But the people - long for more resources...
0:32:38 > 0:32:42- ..and modern implements - to make their lives easier.
0:32:42 > 0:32:45- The big question in Tumbatu is...
0:32:45 > 0:32:48- ..can they have the kind - of developments they need...
0:32:49 > 0:32:51- ..without resorting to tourism?
0:32:55 > 0:32:58- There is strength - in being an island.
0:32:58 > 0:33:00- But there is also weakness.
0:33:02 > 0:33:07- As the world gets smaller, - decision time gets closer.
0:33:07 > 0:33:07- .
0:33:11 > 0:33:11- 888
0:33:11 > 0:33:13- 888- - 888
0:33:17 > 0:33:23- One of Zanzibar's biggest problems - is the lack of medical facilities.
0:33:25 > 0:33:30- Even in the capital's Stone Town, - the lack of resources proves fatal.
0:33:38 > 0:33:42- One in three Zanzibaris - have no clean drinking water.
0:33:45 > 0:33:48- Even where there are - community water supplies...
0:33:48 > 0:33:52- ..the load is difficult - and heavy to carry.
0:33:57 > 0:34:00- Public hygiene is another problem.
0:34:03 > 0:34:07- Only 20% of Zanzibaris live - in a home with a sewerage system.
0:34:08 > 0:34:13- In the poorer areas, - the streets reflect that.
0:34:15 > 0:34:17- Without basic hygiene...
0:34:18 > 0:34:21- ..and only three hospitals - on the main island...
0:34:21 > 0:34:24- ..diseases like cholera - can spread easily.
0:34:24 > 0:34:28- Malnutrition - causes long-term problems.
0:34:31 > 0:34:36- The average life expectancy - in Zanzibar is very low as a result.
0:34:36 > 0:34:38- Fifty is considered old.
0:34:40 > 0:34:43- It's the children who suffer most.
0:34:43 > 0:34:46- Treatable diseases - and malnutrition...
0:34:47 > 0:34:52- ..mean that one in six children - die before they are seven years old.
0:34:55 > 0:35:00- Without modern medical resources, - many turn to traditional methods...
0:35:01 > 0:35:03- ..such as herbal remedies.
0:35:04 > 0:35:08- They even turn to traditional - religions and witch doctors.
0:35:13 > 0:35:16- Some still believe in the spirits - - the Shetani.
0:35:19 > 0:35:23- Instead of struggling - to find modern health-care...
0:35:24 > 0:35:25- ..they use ancient methods.
0:35:26 > 0:35:31- This woman is suffering - from a severe headache.
0:35:31 > 0:35:35- She blames the spirits - for possessing her.
0:35:36 > 0:35:38- HE SINGS
0:35:38 > 0:35:42- Using special rhythms, - the witch doctor calls the Shetani.
0:35:43 > 0:35:46- He must please the Shetani - in order to get rid of them.
0:35:51 > 0:35:54- Four sessions may be needed...
0:35:54 > 0:35:58- ..before the spirits tell him - what they need.
0:35:58 > 0:36:02- The witch doctor receives money, - food and even animals...
0:36:03 > 0:36:05- ..as a sacrifice - on behalf of the Shetani.
0:36:13 > 0:36:17- The hospitals, - with their limited resources...
0:36:17 > 0:36:20- ..have to compete - against the spirits.
0:36:20 > 0:36:23- There are many reasons - why local people...
0:36:24 > 0:36:27- ..are turning their backs - on the old remedies.
0:36:27 > 0:36:31- It may be down to cost, - but more than likely superstition.
0:36:31 > 0:36:35- This hospital's obstetrics unit - is incorporating old methods.
0:36:36 > 0:36:37- Traditional midwives...
0:36:38 > 0:36:42- ..have been encouraged - to promote hospital treatment.
0:36:47 > 0:36:51- This hospital, - in the small town of Makunduchi...
0:36:52 > 0:36:55- ..has a maternity unit and clinic...
0:36:55 > 0:36:58- ..that provides health-care - for mother and child.
0:36:59 > 0:37:02- BABY CRIES
0:37:03 > 0:37:06- But reaching local people - is a challenge...
0:37:07 > 0:37:10- ..for the hospital's manager, - Zainab Othman.
0:37:12 > 0:37:13- SHE SPEAKS SWAHILI
0:37:14 > 0:37:17- The Makanduchi Project - is a UK charity...
0:37:17 > 0:37:22- ..that donates funds and resources - and helps Zainab run the hospital.
0:37:25 > 0:37:29- However, there are only 34 beds - and two junior doctors...
0:37:29 > 0:37:34- ..to meet the health-care needs - of 40,000 local residents.
0:37:38 > 0:37:42- But by working wisely, - Zainab's team helps to save lives.
0:37:47 > 0:37:49- After giving birth...
0:37:50 > 0:37:54- ..this woman was losing blood - and needed a transfusion.
0:37:54 > 0:37:58- Without it, she would have died.
0:38:00 > 0:38:05- But for most women, - hospital births are a rarity.
0:38:05 > 0:38:08- It's difficult - to reach the hospital in time.
0:38:11 > 0:38:14- Often, the only way - to reach Makanduchi Hospital...
0:38:15 > 0:38:20- ..was on foot or by bicycle, - even when the woman was in labour.
0:38:21 > 0:38:26- Zainab decided to begin a new scheme - to offer an alternative.
0:38:30 > 0:38:34- Women can call a special number - and a driver will collect them.
0:38:35 > 0:38:37- SHE SPEAKS SWAHILI
0:38:38 > 0:38:42- The service also deals - with antenatal problems.
0:38:44 > 0:38:49- The service only started operating - a few months ago.
0:38:49 > 0:38:52- It's the first of its kind - in the country.
0:38:52 > 0:38:58- The other task is to persuade - local women to use the new service.
0:39:00 > 0:39:05- Most pregnant women - rely on traditional midwives.
0:39:07 > 0:39:11- They have a wealth - of obstetric experience...
0:39:12 > 0:39:14- ..but no modern training.
0:39:18 > 0:39:23- The service is helpful, as long - as the mothers pick up the phone.
0:39:23 > 0:39:26- The secret is getting - traditional midwives...
0:39:27 > 0:39:30- ..to persuade the mothers - to come to the hospital.
0:39:33 > 0:39:36- But they have to work - much further than that...
0:39:36 > 0:39:39- ..and convince the entire community.
0:39:40 > 0:39:45- Zainab has regular meetings - with village leaders.
0:39:48 > 0:39:50- It's an advantage - that she is a Zanzibari...
0:39:50 > 0:39:55- ..but it's hard for a female to lead - in such a traditional culture.
0:39:57 > 0:40:01- It's rare that women - tell men what to do.
0:40:01 > 0:40:05- Not all men will accept it.
0:40:07 > 0:40:09- SHE SPEAKS SWAHILI
0:40:10 > 0:40:13- Zainab says - it makes her job more difficult.
0:40:16 > 0:40:19- Some people ask - why a woman is in charge.
0:40:19 > 0:40:22- This is another challenge for her.
0:40:24 > 0:40:27- Because these people - are village leaders...
0:40:27 > 0:40:30- ..they are in tune - with their communities.
0:40:30 > 0:40:36- The leaders are informed of the - hospital's record, good and bad.
0:40:36 > 0:40:41- They can then come to meetings - to discuss matters and future plans.
0:40:46 > 0:40:50- Trying to convince people to embrace - new modes of living and working...
0:40:50 > 0:40:53- ..is Zanzibar's greatest challenge.
0:41:00 > 0:41:04- There are small signs - that things are starting to change.
0:41:13 > 0:41:19- Until recently, a female football - team would have been unheard of.
0:41:21 > 0:41:27- But residents are now used to seeing - the Women's Fighters team training.
0:41:27 > 0:41:30- They also play - against male opponents.
0:41:31 > 0:41:34- Symbolically, - this is more than just a game.
0:41:38 > 0:41:41- Efforts by women - to earn their place...
0:41:41 > 0:41:44- ..are also happening - in more important fields than sport.
0:41:46 > 0:41:50- Some women are earning - their own living.
0:41:56 > 0:42:00- As Stone Town's old buildings - are turned into new hotels...
0:42:01 > 0:42:04- ..some women - are doing the manual labour.
0:42:06 > 0:42:09- As far as the women are concerned...
0:42:09 > 0:42:14- ..time will tell whether the change - is merely superficial.
0:42:16 > 0:42:22- In the seaside village of Kidoti - in the north of Unguja...
0:42:22 > 0:42:26- ..is a group of females - who have to work to survive.
0:42:38 > 0:42:43- The old tradition of seaweed farming - has now become an industry.
0:42:46 > 0:42:49- This is a seaweed smallholding.
0:42:49 > 0:42:51- The women farm three beaches.
0:42:51 > 0:42:55- They have created a string grid - to cultivate the seaweed.
0:42:56 > 0:43:00- They take a small cutting, - tie it to the string...
0:43:00 > 0:43:02- ..and let it grow for three months.
0:43:02 > 0:43:08- They then collect it, tie another - cutting and the process is repeated.
0:43:17 > 0:43:20- The local name - for this type of seaweed is mwani.
0:43:20 > 0:43:25- It creates a gel which is used - in perfume, medicine...
0:43:25 > 0:43:27- ..and even ice cream.
0:43:27 > 0:43:32- But cultivating and collecting it - is hard work for little reward.
0:43:33 > 0:43:37- The seaweed is dried in fields - of hot stones before it's sold.
0:43:38 > 0:43:43- A lot becomes a little and it's hard - on the back in the sweltering heat.
0:43:48 > 0:43:52- Traditionally, seaweed collecting - was women's work.
0:43:52 > 0:43:56- In Kidoti, some females - are trying to push the boundaries.
0:43:56 > 0:43:58- We've been looking for clues...
0:43:58 > 0:44:01- ..to suggest - there is a desire for change.
0:44:02 > 0:44:05- That often requires determination.
0:44:05 > 0:44:08- Sometimes, it also requires courage.
0:44:11 > 0:44:15- Fatuma Meshenge is one - of the leaders of a cooperative...
0:44:15 > 0:44:18- ..founded by some of the women.
0:44:23 > 0:44:25- She tells me - that she has eight children.
0:44:26 > 0:44:29- Their father died - and now they have no-one but me.
0:44:31 > 0:44:35- As a widow, she has to support - her family on her wages alone.
0:44:35 > 0:44:37- SHE SPEAKS SWAHILI
0:44:39 > 0:44:41- I earn under half a dollar a day...
0:44:42 > 0:44:45- ..but if I don't work, - I don't get anything.
0:44:46 > 0:44:48- The money is a great help.
0:44:49 > 0:44:53- It helps my children go to school - and it pays for their books.
0:44:54 > 0:44:57- For Fatuma, - who is also in poor health...
0:44:57 > 0:45:00- ..education is the key - to a better life for her family.
0:45:01 > 0:45:06- She's glad that her daughters as - well as her sons are being educated.
0:45:07 > 0:45:09- SHE SPEAKS SWAHILI
0:45:11 > 0:45:14- I never went to school, - but I want my children to go.
0:45:15 > 0:45:17- I send them - and demand that they go...
0:45:18 > 0:45:21- ..so that they avoid the problems - I encountered.
0:45:26 > 0:45:29- Aided by the government...
0:45:29 > 0:45:34- ..Fatuma and others have created - an industry out of seaweed farming.
0:45:36 > 0:45:39- Together, they also produce - things like soap...
0:45:39 > 0:45:43- ..to ensure they retain - more of the profit.
0:45:48 > 0:45:52- The seaweed industry accounts - for one dollar in every five...
0:45:52 > 0:45:56- ..of Zanzibar's export revenue.
0:45:58 > 0:46:03- The women are proving that it's - possible to create new industries...
0:46:04 > 0:46:06- ..by being inventive.
0:46:08 > 0:46:12- There are three things - that stand out in the women's story.
0:46:12 > 0:46:15- Their belief that education - brings about hope...
0:46:15 > 0:46:18- ..the dangers of poor health...
0:46:18 > 0:46:21- ..and the fact that women - are earning a living.
0:46:28 > 0:46:32- These are small signs - signifying change.
0:46:32 > 0:46:34- A change for the better.
0:46:38 > 0:46:41- After years of stagnation...
0:46:42 > 0:46:45- ..Zanzibar appears to have the wind - back in its sails.
0:46:48 > 0:46:51- As well as social changes, - political changes...
0:46:51 > 0:46:54- ..are offering some kind of hope.
0:46:54 > 0:46:56- HE SPEAKS SWAHILI
0:46:59 > 0:47:02- There are those who are trying - to bring about change.
0:47:05 > 0:47:07- But the challenge is to change...
0:47:07 > 0:47:11- ..without losing - what makes the island special.
0:47:11 > 0:47:14- To preserve the old - and embrace the new.
0:47:20 > 0:47:24- Despite its contrasts, - in a Muslim country such as this...
0:47:24 > 0:47:27- ..there is still a prominent place - for women.
0:47:28 > 0:47:31- If they're given the power - and opportunity...
0:47:32 > 0:47:34- ..they can aspire - to a better future...
0:47:35 > 0:47:38- ..for themselves and their families.
0:47:38 > 0:47:43- The journey will be a long one, - but it may already have begun.
0:48:27 > 0:48:29- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:48:29 > 0:48:30- .