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0:00:09 > 0:00:13- There's a story behind the name - of every house, field...
0:00:13 > 0:00:16- ..mountain and beach.
0:00:16 > 0:00:19- Our history - isn't always on the surface.
0:00:19 > 0:00:21- You must search for it...
0:00:22 > 0:00:25- ..and sometimes unlock it - layer by layer.
0:00:34 > 0:00:38- We'll be focusing on the names - of shores in this series.
0:00:38 > 0:00:41- Then, why start - in the middle of the mountains?
0:00:41 > 0:00:44- The journey ahead, - on land and sea...
0:00:44 > 0:00:46- ..will be influenced by quarries.
0:00:47 > 0:00:50- Granite, lead, manganese...
0:00:50 > 0:00:53- ..jasper, and, of course, slate.
0:00:53 > 0:00:57- We're in North Wales this time. - This is Arfordir Cymru.
0:01:16 > 0:01:21- During this series, we'll - travel along Llyn's coastal path...
0:01:21 > 0:01:25- ..which stretches - from Caernarfon to Porthmadog.
0:01:25 > 0:01:28- 84 miles - of quaint seaside villages...
0:01:28 > 0:01:30- ..rocks and caves.
0:01:30 > 0:01:33- I'll be meeting the area's locals...
0:01:34 > 0:01:37- ..and hearing the stories - behind these lovely names.
0:01:45 > 0:01:48- This is - one of the last strongholds...
0:01:48 > 0:01:52- ..where the Welsh language, - its idioms and dialect...
0:01:52 > 0:01:55- ..is spoken - by the majority of inhabitants.
0:01:55 > 0:01:59- And it's water, be it river or sea, - that will lead the way.
0:02:08 > 0:02:12- We'll also explore the rivers - at each end of our journey...
0:02:13 > 0:02:16- ..following the Seiont - from Llanberis to Caernarfon...
0:02:16 > 0:02:19- ..before circling - the Llyn Peninsula and Bardsey...
0:02:20 > 0:02:24- ..and joining the River Dwyryd - towards Blaenau Ffestiniog.
0:02:31 > 0:02:35- Although the Llyn Peninsula - will claim most of our attention...
0:02:36 > 0:02:38- ..our journey covers a wider area...
0:02:38 > 0:02:42- ..touching the shores - of Arfon and Eifionydd.
0:02:42 > 0:02:45- Flanking the series at both ends...
0:02:45 > 0:02:47- ..is slate.
0:02:47 > 0:02:50- It's left its mark - not only on the landscape...
0:02:51 > 0:02:54- ..but in a more abstract way, - on people's way of thinking...
0:02:55 > 0:02:57- ..their literature - and their speech.
0:03:03 > 0:03:07- In its heyday, 3,000 men - worked at the Dinorwic quarry.
0:03:08 > 0:03:11- They had - their own unique vocabulary.
0:03:14 > 0:03:19- In some quarries, the word the men - used for quarrelling was haldiwario.
0:03:19 > 0:03:23- There was a different vocabulary - in different areas.
0:03:23 > 0:03:27- They had names for their tools too, - such as miniar bach.
0:03:28 > 0:03:31- This was the Cyn Manollt.
0:03:32 > 0:03:35- The name given to this was a cowjan.
0:03:40 > 0:03:44- In this programme, we follow - the water from Llanberis...
0:03:44 > 0:03:49- ..to the Menai Strait before making - our way to the village of Trefor.
0:03:51 > 0:03:55- Llyn Padarn was formed - at the end of the last Ice Age.
0:03:55 > 0:03:57- It's home to the char...
0:03:57 > 0:04:01- ..a rare breed of fish which is - only found in glacial waters.
0:04:08 > 0:04:12- Anglers fish for trout and salmon - in the river below the lake.
0:04:12 > 0:04:15- I think I'll try my luck.
0:04:28 > 0:04:30- Seiont means strong and powerful.
0:04:31 > 0:04:34- In certain parts, - it's easy to understand why.
0:04:34 > 0:04:36- Huw Hughes is secretary...
0:04:37 > 0:04:41- ..of the Seiont, - Gwyrfai and Llyfni Fishing Society.
0:04:45 > 0:04:48- You're in a place of - exceptional beauty, I must admit.
0:04:48 > 0:04:52- I wouldn't call it beautiful, - I'd call it magical.
0:04:52 > 0:04:55- Especially on a day like today.
0:04:55 > 0:04:58- How long - have you been fishing this river?
0:04:59 > 0:05:04- I've been fishing in these waters - since I was 11 years of age.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08- Our aim is to head for the sea - and try to follow the water...
0:05:08 > 0:05:11- ..from Llyn Padarn and downwards.
0:05:11 > 0:05:14- You use the name Saint - for this river.
0:05:14 > 0:05:17- As the river - runs from Llyn Padarn...
0:05:17 > 0:05:22- ..down to the sea, that stretch - of water is called Saint.
0:05:22 > 0:05:26- Everyone refers to it as Seiont - and it's Seiont on the maps.
0:05:27 > 0:05:30- I assume - there are various names along it?
0:05:30 > 0:05:33- Yes, there are interesting names.
0:05:33 > 0:05:39- When you start out from Llyn Padarn, - the two pools you come to...
0:05:39 > 0:05:41- ..are Rhyd Bach and Rhyd Mawr...
0:05:42 > 0:05:45- ..which run into a lake - called Llyn Bogelyn.
0:05:46 > 0:05:48- Llyn Bogelyn?
0:05:48 > 0:05:53- It runs from Llyn Bogelyn - to what they call Seston Fawr.
0:05:53 > 0:05:56- There are no other - antiquated names...
0:05:56 > 0:05:59- ..until you reach Pont Rhythallt.
0:05:59 > 0:06:02- Because there's a station there...
0:06:02 > 0:06:05- ..they call the turn Tro Tryciau.
0:06:06 > 0:06:09- The place below that - is called Fflatiau Hen Lanciau.
0:06:09 > 0:06:13- What did the hen lanciau - (unmarried men) do there, I wonder?
0:06:13 > 0:06:18- The lake above this pool - is called Llyn Doctor.
0:06:18 > 0:06:21- And then we reach here.
0:06:21 > 0:06:24- It's called Llyn Tywod, - as I understand...
0:06:24 > 0:06:28- ..because the mill - treated the slate with sand...
0:06:28 > 0:06:30- ..quite possibly to clean it.
0:06:30 > 0:06:35- The sand washed the water and - the riverbed was a blanket of sand.
0:06:35 > 0:06:37- That's why it's called Llyn Tywod.
0:06:38 > 0:06:40- We own - a large part of the River Gwyrfai.
0:06:40 > 0:06:46- Some of the pools have interesting - names. Llyn Fuwch (Lake Cow).
0:06:46 > 0:06:52- That's above Pont Y Gwredog - and Carreg Pechodau (Rock of Sins).
0:06:52 > 0:06:55- Have you ever heard of that?
0:06:55 > 0:06:58- There was a bwytwr pechodau - (sin eater) from Waunfawr.
0:06:58 > 0:07:02- They'd put something really tasty - like bread or cake...
0:07:02 > 0:07:08- ..on the chest of the deceased - and place them on the rock.
0:07:08 > 0:07:13- Someone would then come around - and eat them.
0:07:13 > 0:07:15- You have to ask, who ate his sins?
0:07:15 > 0:07:18- Of course, - there's always a pecking order!
0:07:18 > 0:07:23- If he was being paid, it'd take - a lot of money to eat all my sins!
0:07:36 > 0:07:40- The Seiont reaches the estuary - near Caernarfon Castle...
0:07:40 > 0:07:45- ..which is testament to Edward I's - decision to placate the Welsh.
0:07:45 > 0:07:48- Its strategic location - next to the Menai Strait...
0:07:48 > 0:07:52- ..facilitated control of the water - between the mainland and Anglesey.
0:07:52 > 0:07:57- The town's name is easily explained. - Caer (fort) ar (on) Fon (Anglesey).
0:07:57 > 0:07:59- A fort opposite Anglesey.
0:08:01 > 0:08:05- In the shadow of the imposing castle - is the slate quay...
0:08:05 > 0:08:07- ..which is now a car park.
0:08:08 > 0:08:12- As the name suggests, - this place has a very rich history.
0:08:20 > 0:08:25- The slate quay was an essential link - of the slate industry's chain.
0:08:26 > 0:08:28- During the Industrial Revolution...
0:08:29 > 0:08:31- ..cities were rapidly expanding...
0:08:31 > 0:08:35- ..and there was - a sustained demand for slate...
0:08:35 > 0:08:37- ..to build factories and houses.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40- It was Dyffryn Nantlle slate - which came here.
0:08:40 > 0:08:42- It'd reach the slate quay...
0:08:42 > 0:08:46- ..before being loaded on to ships - and exported worldwide.
0:08:49 > 0:08:54- The Menai isn't a river, it's a - strait between island and mainland.
0:08:54 > 0:08:56- The name's origin is unknown.
0:08:57 > 0:09:01- It's possible that the Men - refers to Myned, the verb to go...
0:09:01 > 0:09:03- ..or to flow.
0:09:04 > 0:09:09- The Menai can be very unpredictable - in terms of its tides, currents...
0:09:09 > 0:09:12- ..and sandbanks.
0:09:12 > 0:09:16- I'd better take someone experienced - along with me.
0:09:29 > 0:09:33- For many years, salmon fishing...
0:09:33 > 0:09:38- ..was a very important pursuit - in Caernarfon.
0:09:38 > 0:09:42- Tony Lovell comes from a long line - of Caernarfon's salmon fishermen.
0:09:44 > 0:09:48- How long have the Lovells - been salmon fishing?
0:09:48 > 0:09:50- About a century, I'd say.
0:09:50 > 0:09:53- It might even be longer.
0:09:53 > 0:09:55- Along with - other families in the town.
0:09:56 > 0:09:58- Yes, many other families.
0:09:58 > 0:10:01- You've brought - a photo of yourself in your heyday.
0:10:01 > 0:10:05- Yes, I've brought one of me - when I was 20 years old.
0:10:07 > 0:10:08- Which one are you?
0:10:09 > 0:10:11- The thinnest, of course.
0:10:11 > 0:10:15- The thin, fit one. - Who are the other men?
0:10:15 > 0:10:18- Jim Lovell, Ned Dolly Head.
0:10:19 > 0:10:20- Tommy Walley...
0:10:21 > 0:10:24- ..Tony Lovell and Jack Bank.
0:10:25 > 0:10:28- There were - quite a few characters among us.
0:10:28 > 0:10:30- I'm sure you had fun.
0:10:30 > 0:10:33- What was your job on the boat?
0:10:33 > 0:10:37- It was my duty - to steer the boat, coil the ropes...
0:10:38 > 0:10:41- ..and get the boat ready - for the next haul.
0:10:42 > 0:10:44- How do you - go about catching salmon?
0:10:45 > 0:10:48- We'd start out from the dock - at four hours of tide...
0:10:48 > 0:10:51- ..which means from high tide.
0:10:52 > 0:10:55- You mean when the tide - has been at its height?
0:10:55 > 0:10:57- Yes, we'd come to the fishing patch.
0:10:58 > 0:11:01- What happened there?
0:11:01 > 0:11:06- We more or less went straight out, - to the large float.
0:11:06 > 0:11:10- We turned at a 45-degree angle - and went out on an arc.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14- So you went - straight out to half the net...
0:11:14 > 0:11:16- ..and then 45 degrees after that.
0:11:17 > 0:11:20- Then we came to - what we call the outer pole.
0:11:20 > 0:11:24- From the outer pole, - we had a rope to shore.
0:11:24 > 0:11:27- We rowed full speed to shore...
0:11:28 > 0:11:30- ..and then it's haul away.
0:11:30 > 0:11:32- You call it haul away?
0:11:33 > 0:11:35- Were there names for these patches?
0:11:35 > 0:11:38- Yes. - Treasure Island was by Number 9.
0:11:38 > 0:11:40- What's Number 9?
0:11:40 > 0:11:45- The largest buoy - at the entrance to the dock.
0:11:45 > 0:11:47- Why Treasure Island?
0:11:47 > 0:11:51- Ned Lovell made up that name - because he'd been lucky there.
0:11:51 > 0:11:57- Further down is Glasddwr, - heading towards Porth Lleidiog.
0:11:57 > 0:12:00- Then there was Ty Calch, - Traeth Gwyn and Belan.
0:12:01 > 0:12:02- Did everyone get on well?
0:12:02 > 0:12:04- Did everyone get on well?- - Yes, very well.
0:12:04 > 0:12:09- Was there ever any envy if one of - you had caught more than the other?
0:12:09 > 0:12:11- Of course!
0:12:13 > 0:12:16- But it was always lots of fun.
0:12:21 > 0:12:21- .
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0:12:28 > 0:12:32- We're on the trail of place names - and the stories behind them...
0:12:32 > 0:12:35- ..along the shores - of northwest Wales.
0:12:35 > 0:12:39- We're at the southern tip - of the Menai Strait.
0:12:40 > 0:12:44- Llanfaglan Church - dates from the 13th century...
0:12:44 > 0:12:47- ..and is dedicated - to Saint Baglan ap Dingad.
0:12:47 > 0:12:50- Here we focus - on the derivation of other names.
0:12:50 > 0:12:52- Personal names.
0:12:53 > 0:12:57- Ifor Williams is active - with the Welsh Place-Name Society...
0:12:57 > 0:13:01- ..and is also the caretaker - of this ancient church.
0:13:13 > 0:13:16- There are hundreds of years - of history in these walls.
0:13:17 > 0:13:23- I couldn't help but notice the pews - as I walked in.
0:13:23 > 0:13:27- There are dates and letters - inscribed on mostly all of them.
0:13:28 > 0:13:30- Yes, almost all.
0:13:30 > 0:13:33- The letters denote the names - of the pews' owners.
0:13:33 > 0:13:38- The letter at the top always - refers to the family's surname.
0:13:38 > 0:13:41- Husband on the left, - wife on the right.
0:13:41 > 0:13:43- William and Anne Humphreys - in this case.
0:13:43 > 0:13:48- They farmed Plas Llanfaglan, - the land surrounding the church.
0:13:48 > 0:13:50- More than 300 acres of farmland.
0:13:51 > 0:13:56- I assume it was the most wealthy - and influential families...
0:13:56 > 0:13:58- ..who owned the larger pews?
0:13:58 > 0:14:00- ..who owned the larger pews?- - Yes, they paid someone to make them.
0:14:00 > 0:14:04- Ordinary folk made do - with pews like that one there.
0:14:04 > 0:14:06- That's where I'd sit.
0:14:06 > 0:14:09- That's where I'd sit.- - Me too.
0:14:16 > 0:14:21- These pews were a mark of - a person's status in society, then?
0:14:22 > 0:14:26- Precisely. This one's the best, - it's made from oak.
0:14:27 > 0:14:30- In today's terms, - it's the Rolls Royce of pews.
0:14:30 > 0:14:35- I have to ask, - who owned the main pew?
0:14:35 > 0:14:38- David and Margaret Jones, - whose memorial is behind us.
0:14:38 > 0:14:41- They were a wealthy family.
0:14:41 > 0:14:44- David Jones - lived in Cefn Coed, Llanfaglan.
0:14:44 > 0:14:47- He was a 52-year-old widower.
0:14:47 > 0:14:51- Margaret was an 18-year-old - from Bodfan, Llandwrog.
0:14:52 > 0:14:55- David fancied Margaret.
0:14:55 > 0:14:57- I'm sure he did.
0:14:57 > 0:15:03- The two married two years later - when she was 20 and he was 54...
0:15:03 > 0:15:07- ..on the shortest day of the year - in Llandwrog Church in 1764.
0:15:08 > 0:15:11- There's a carving down here too.
0:15:12 > 0:15:14- It might be graffiti, - for all we know!
0:15:14 > 0:15:19- I'd say the son had been a naughty - boy and carved his name on this pew.
0:15:19 > 0:15:21- RI, 1784.
0:15:21 > 0:15:23- So you can date the carving.
0:15:23 > 0:15:26- So you can date the carving.- - Yes, that's what's great about it.
0:15:26 > 0:15:29- It's essential for history.
0:15:29 > 0:15:31- Which son was this, then?
0:15:31 > 0:15:34- Which son was this, then?- - Richard Jones, the second son.
0:15:34 > 0:15:37- We know exactly how old he was - when he wrote this.
0:15:38 > 0:15:40- He was 10 or 11 years old.
0:15:40 > 0:15:43- His father - must've given him a hiding!
0:15:43 > 0:15:46- I wouldn't have liked - to have been in his shoes!
0:15:51 > 0:15:56- In order to leave the Menai behind, - we sail pass Braich Abermenai...
0:15:56 > 0:16:00- ..through a narrow gap - where the sea is choppy and wild.
0:16:01 > 0:16:06- We're on our way out of - the Menai Strait through the Gap...
0:16:06 > 0:16:09- ..as Caernarfon fishermen - refer to it.
0:16:09 > 0:16:13- Many people - have been caught out here.
0:16:14 > 0:16:16- Whoa!
0:16:17 > 0:16:20- The tide runs this way - and the wind hits us head-on.
0:16:21 > 0:16:24- When those two forces collide...
0:16:24 > 0:16:29- ..it can be - exceptionally dangerous here.
0:16:38 > 0:16:40- As we leave the Menai Strait...
0:16:40 > 0:16:45- ..and keep to the left - of Arfon's shores, the sea's calmer.
0:16:45 > 0:16:49- We'll travel along a stretch of sea - called Sianel Gwyr Nefyn...
0:16:49 > 0:16:53- ..a name which I assume - came about from the fishing trade...
0:16:54 > 0:16:58- ..between Caernarfon and - the fishing town of Nefyn in Llyn.
0:16:58 > 0:17:00- But the Nefyn fishermen...
0:17:00 > 0:17:04- ..didn't call this choppy - stretch of water the Menai Strait.
0:17:05 > 0:17:07- They called it Afon G'narfon.
0:17:13 > 0:17:16- Sailing southwards, - we're aiming for...
0:17:16 > 0:17:19- ..the long arm - of the Llyn Peninsula.
0:17:19 > 0:17:22- We're in ancient territory, - full of myth and legend.
0:17:23 > 0:17:25- Many of the area's names...
0:17:25 > 0:17:28- ..are associated - with one of our earliest legends.
0:17:28 > 0:17:32- The story of Math Fab Mathonwy, - the King of Gwynedd.
0:17:33 > 0:17:36- Dinas Dinlle, - Caer Arianrhod and Maen Dylan...
0:17:36 > 0:17:41- ..relate to the legend first - recorded in the 11th century...
0:17:41 > 0:17:44- ..though it's far older than that.
0:17:44 > 0:17:46- I'll simplify it as much as I can.
0:17:46 > 0:17:49- Basically, Math fab Mathonwy...
0:17:49 > 0:17:52- ..had to rest his feet - in the lap of a virgin.
0:17:52 > 0:17:57- Arianrhod, from Caer Arianrhod, - was chosen for that purpose.
0:17:57 > 0:18:00- In order to prove her virginity...
0:18:00 > 0:18:02- ..she had to step over Math's rod.
0:18:03 > 0:18:06- The minute she did that, - she gave birth to a baby...
0:18:06 > 0:18:10- ..who was born of the sea and - who dived straight into the water.
0:18:11 > 0:18:13- He was named Dylan Ail Don...
0:18:13 > 0:18:16- ..and somehow or other, - he's associated with Maen Dylan.
0:18:22 > 0:18:25- When Dylan Ail Don was born...
0:18:25 > 0:18:28- ..a lump of flesh came with him.
0:18:28 > 0:18:32- It was put in a chest, and - when the chest was later opened...
0:18:32 > 0:18:35- ..a little - fair-haired boy was inside.
0:18:35 > 0:18:38- It caused Arianrhod immense shame...
0:18:39 > 0:18:43- ..and she swore this child - would never have a name...
0:18:43 > 0:18:45- ..unless the name came from her.
0:18:45 > 0:18:50- Following all kinds of wizardry - synonymous with the Mabinogion...
0:18:50 > 0:18:53- ..the child - came face to face with Arianrhod...
0:18:54 > 0:18:56- ..when he was disguised - as a shoemaker.
0:18:57 > 0:18:59- As he measured Arianrhod's foot - for a shoe...
0:18:59 > 0:19:02- ..a little bird landed nearby.
0:19:02 > 0:19:06- The child threw a stone - and hit the bird on its leg.
0:19:06 > 0:19:11- Arianrhod exclaimed, "The fair one - struck with a deft hand".
0:19:11 > 0:19:15- That's how the child got his name, - from Arianrhod.
0:19:15 > 0:19:17- He was named Lleu Llaw Gyffes...
0:19:18 > 0:19:21- ..the - Fair-Haired One of the Skilful Hand.
0:19:21 > 0:19:23- According to some, Dinas Dinlle...
0:19:24 > 0:19:27- ..is derived from Dinas Dyn Lleu - (The town of the man called Lleu).
0:19:28 > 0:19:32- If there's any connection - between Dinas Dinlle and Lleu...
0:19:32 > 0:19:36- ..it'd suggest that he was named - after Leucos, the god of light.
0:19:37 > 0:19:40- Lleu's character - is reminiscent of the god.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45- But examples - of the element Dinlle...
0:19:45 > 0:19:49- ..appear in names - which have no connection with Lleu.
0:19:50 > 0:19:54- It's strongly argued that Dinlle - is an element by itself.
0:19:55 > 0:19:58- That is to say, dyn lle, - a place where you'll find a man...
0:19:59 > 0:20:01- ..or a fort.
0:20:09 > 0:20:11- And here it is.
0:20:11 > 0:20:14- Or what's left - of the hill fort nowadays.
0:20:15 > 0:20:18- Objects dating back to - the second and third centuries...
0:20:18 > 0:20:21- ..have been unearthed here...
0:20:21 > 0:20:24- ..but the sea is eroding - more and more of the land.
0:20:24 > 0:20:28- The only thing that's left - is this foreland semi-circle.
0:20:29 > 0:20:31- As the erosion process continues...
0:20:32 > 0:20:34- ..we're likely to lose all this...
0:20:34 > 0:20:37- ..and the connection - between ourselves...
0:20:38 > 0:20:42- ..and those who lived here 2,000 - years ago will be gone forever.
0:20:50 > 0:20:53- Moving further southwards, - we pass Aberdesach.
0:20:53 > 0:20:56- Desach means - belonging to the Deisi...
0:20:57 > 0:21:02- ..a Celtic tribe from Ireland who, - it's claimed, settled here awhile.
0:21:09 > 0:21:14- As we sail across the bay, there's - a place to shelter in Trefor.
0:21:29 > 0:21:34- In the earliest records, the town - of Caernarfon is spelt with a V.
0:21:34 > 0:21:38- It was only later - that the Welsh F replaced it.
0:21:38 > 0:21:43- The same is true here. - Trefor is spelt with the Welsh F.
0:21:43 > 0:21:49- You could argue that you should keep - the V in the village's spelling...
0:21:49 > 0:21:52- ..because this isn't - a major town or a seaside town.
0:21:53 > 0:21:55- Trefor is a personal name.
0:21:55 > 0:21:57- Trefor Jones.
0:22:02 > 0:22:06- Yr Hendre or Yr Hendre Fawr - was its ancient name.
0:22:06 > 0:22:09- However, - during the mid-19th century...
0:22:09 > 0:22:14- ..the Welsh Granite Company noticed - people living on Yr Eifl's slopes...
0:22:14 > 0:22:17- ..were digging for granite - and transporting it.
0:22:17 > 0:22:21- Trefor Jones - was the company's supervisor.
0:22:21 > 0:22:24- He realised - that this was premium stone.
0:22:24 > 0:22:28- Mining began and people - flocked here to work in the quarry.
0:22:30 > 0:22:36- In 1856, the foundation stone - was laid for this row of houses.
0:22:36 > 0:22:40- Later, an entire village - was built around them.
0:22:56 > 0:23:00- Standing here, in the heart - of the works, gives you an idea...
0:23:01 > 0:23:03- ..of the quarry's influence - on the area.
0:23:04 > 0:23:10- An industrial landscape juxtaposed - with exceptional scenic beauty.
0:23:10 > 0:23:12- It was an enormous venture.
0:23:12 > 0:23:16- As a sign of appreciation - for Trefor Jones' hard work...
0:23:17 > 0:23:19- ..the quarry's owners decided...
0:23:19 > 0:23:23- ..to call - this village below me Trefor.
0:23:23 > 0:23:27- Now that's what you call - immortalised!
0:23:44 > 0:23:46- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:23:46 > 0:23:46- .