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0:00:07 > 0:00:10- Smugglers, fishermen...
0:00:11 > 0:00:13- ..echoes of early Irish visitors...
0:00:14 > 0:00:17- ..and enchanting legends, - names and history.
0:00:17 > 0:00:19- They all dote on this coastline.
0:00:21 > 0:00:22- This is Arfordir Cymru.
0:00:36 > 0:00:39- In this episode, - we journey from Aberaeron...
0:00:39 > 0:00:44- ..past New Quay and Cwmtydu to - the fishing village of Llangrannog.
0:00:55 > 0:00:59- As we travel southwards - between Aberaeron and New Quay...
0:00:59 > 0:01:03- ..the shores are littered - with caves and waterfalls.
0:01:03 > 0:01:07- There are coves with quaint names - such as Cilfach yr Halen...
0:01:07 > 0:01:09- ..and areas like this...
0:01:09 > 0:01:13- ..where the River Drywi flows - over the headland to the beach.
0:01:13 > 0:01:17- It looks as if - it should belong in a fairytale.
0:01:27 > 0:01:30- Before reaching New Quay - we pass Cei Bach...
0:01:30 > 0:01:32- ..a sandy beach below Llanina.
0:01:33 > 0:01:36- Shipbuilding was big business here - at one time...
0:01:36 > 0:01:38- ..but that industry - has since ceased.
0:01:39 > 0:01:43- However, what does remain - are the legends.
0:01:43 > 0:01:45- Some claim Ina was a king...
0:01:45 > 0:01:49- ..who reigned over Wessex - at the turn of the eighth century.
0:01:50 > 0:01:52- He was shipwrecked here...
0:01:53 > 0:01:56- ..and the local residents - took care of him.
0:01:56 > 0:01:58- Once they repaired his boat...
0:01:58 > 0:02:02- ..King Ina promised to return - to found a church here.
0:02:02 > 0:02:05- That church has long gone - but another dedicated to Ina...
0:02:06 > 0:02:08- ..has stood here ever since.
0:02:08 > 0:02:11- The small church, - a short distance inland...
0:02:11 > 0:02:13- ..is at the least the third church.
0:02:14 > 0:02:16- It may even possibly be the seventh.
0:02:17 > 0:02:20- A short row away - and we pass Carreg Ina...
0:02:21 > 0:02:23- ..between the buoy and the land.
0:02:23 > 0:02:28- Hard to know if Ina was shipwrecked - here, but once past the stone...
0:02:28 > 0:02:31- ..New Quay opens up in front of you.
0:02:31 > 0:02:36- Many say it provided the inspiration - for Dylan Thomas' characters...
0:02:37 > 0:02:39- ..of the fictional Llareggub...
0:02:39 > 0:02:43- ..with its clusters of houses - overlooking the fishing boats.
0:02:44 > 0:02:48- New Quay is still a working harbour - for some, though many boats...
0:02:48 > 0:02:52- ..now cater for visitors - who come in their droves...
0:02:52 > 0:02:57- ..to enjoy the waves and play on the - pale-coloured sands of Traeth Gwyn.
0:02:58 > 0:03:00- If you'd stood on Traeth Gwyn - 300 years ago...
0:03:01 > 0:03:04- ..you'd have seen - an old altar tomb called Hengell.
0:03:05 > 0:03:07- Within a tomb...
0:03:07 > 0:03:11- ..were four stone walls - and a flat stone on top of them.
0:03:11 > 0:03:16- In a similar tomb on Traeth Gwyn - lived a man named Gwynestrin.
0:03:16 > 0:03:20- After being at a banquet - where two princes were murdered...
0:03:21 > 0:03:25- ..one of whom was Ceredig, - who gave his name to Ceredigion...
0:03:25 > 0:03:28- ..he fled across - the River Ystwyth in a coracle...
0:03:29 > 0:03:31- ..and landed here.
0:03:31 > 0:03:35- Once his shattered sanity - and broken body had recovered...
0:03:36 > 0:03:40- ..he vowed to heal, educate - and impart his wisdom to the locals.
0:03:40 > 0:03:43- People referred to him - as the man in the cell.
0:03:45 > 0:03:48- The altar tomb was swept out to sea.
0:03:48 > 0:03:53- These days, Hengell - is the name of a caravan site...
0:03:53 > 0:03:57- ..the only linguistic reminder - of a man who lived as a hermit...
0:03:58 > 0:03:59- ..in self-abnegation.
0:04:00 > 0:04:04- The act of fleeing has remained - a theme in this area thereafter.
0:04:05 > 0:04:06- Arba Cottages...
0:04:07 > 0:04:10- ..are the result - of one significant case.
0:04:12 > 0:04:17- In 1832 the squire of Llanina House - told his shipbuilders...
0:04:17 > 0:04:21- ..that they had to vote - for the Tories or lose their homes.
0:04:21 > 0:04:24- The workers were fervent Liberals...
0:04:24 > 0:04:27- ..so they moved out and came here...
0:04:27 > 0:04:30- ..defying - their employer's authority...
0:04:30 > 0:04:33- ..to found their own village.
0:04:33 > 0:04:39- They called it Arba after the city - of refuge referred to in the Bible.
0:04:44 > 0:04:48- Not everyone here - wants to retreat from the world.
0:04:48 > 0:04:51- There are those - who welcome people with open arms.
0:04:52 > 0:04:56- David Winston Evans sails - his pleasure boats from New Quay.
0:04:59 > 0:05:02- Were you born and raised - in New Quay, Winston?
0:05:02 > 0:05:04- Yes, a long time ago now.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08- What has been your job - over the years?
0:05:08 > 0:05:12- I was a fisherman fishing - for mackerel, lobsters, crabs.
0:05:12 > 0:05:16- That's what I used to do - many years ago before I gave it up.
0:05:16 > 0:05:21- I'd fish for anything, scallops or - whatever, as long as I made money!
0:05:21 > 0:05:23- You also served with the lifeboat.
0:05:24 > 0:05:27- Yes, I was with - the lifeboat crew 29 years.
0:05:27 > 0:05:29- I joined as a young man.
0:05:29 > 0:05:33- My father and many of his friends - died young, around 50 years of age.
0:05:34 > 0:05:36- There was no-one to replace them...
0:05:37 > 0:05:40- ..which is why I joined - at such a young age.
0:05:40 > 0:05:42- I was a coxswain at 26.
0:05:42 > 0:05:43- You were a coxswain at 26?
0:05:43 > 0:05:45- You were a coxswain at 26?- - You know it all at that age!
0:05:46 > 0:05:48- At least you think you do.
0:05:48 > 0:05:54- Where would you say is your patch - along this stretch of coastline?
0:05:56 > 0:06:00- For years I thought my patch - stretched from here to Ynys Lochtyn.
0:06:00 > 0:06:02- But that didn't last.
0:06:02 > 0:06:05- As the fishing industry - deteriorated...
0:06:05 > 0:06:10- ..it was odd because more and more - men were becoming fishermen.
0:06:10 > 0:06:13- Most are still fishing these waters.
0:06:13 > 0:06:17- When I was catching lots of lobsters - I wasn't getting paid for them.
0:06:18 > 0:06:20- Or, at least, - I wasn't getting a good price.
0:06:21 > 0:06:23- When I chat to people - on my travels...
0:06:23 > 0:06:27- ..I like to collect the names - of rocks, headlands and so on.
0:06:27 > 0:06:31- I tend to sketch small maps by hand.
0:06:31 > 0:06:36- I have to apologize, Winston, - because this one's very poor.
0:06:36 > 0:06:40- It's not very detailed, - but what's behind us here?
0:06:40 > 0:06:42- Ogof Ddeuben.
0:06:42 > 0:06:46- Ogof Ddeuben? Why is it called that?
0:06:46 > 0:06:50- Go in through one and out - through the other in a small boat.
0:06:50 > 0:06:52- Did people do that years ago?
0:06:52 > 0:06:56- There were those, before my time, - who rowed down here...
0:06:56 > 0:07:00- ..and charged people two shillings - for the privilege.
0:07:00 > 0:07:04- They charged people for - rowing them through Ogof Ddeuben?
0:07:04 > 0:07:07- Then they started using outboards.
0:07:08 > 0:07:11- Ogof Deuben, yes?
0:07:11 > 0:07:13- Carreg Walltog.
0:07:13 > 0:07:18- Coast Guards use it as target - practice and throw the line across.
0:07:20 > 0:07:22- A rocket line.
0:07:26 > 0:07:29- Then there's an obvious rock - around the corner.
0:07:29 > 0:07:33- Y Draenog (hedgehog).
0:07:33 > 0:07:35- On account of its shape?
0:07:35 > 0:07:39- It doesn't look like a hedgehog - to me but that's what it's called!
0:07:40 > 0:07:41- And as we head for Cwmtydu?
0:07:41 > 0:07:45- And as we head for Cwmtydu?- - You come to Cwm Silio first...
0:07:45 > 0:07:47- ..before Cwmtydu.
0:07:47 > 0:07:49- Cwm Silio.
0:07:50 > 0:07:52- A mini version of Cwmtydu.
0:07:53 > 0:07:55- And then there's Traeth y Coubal...
0:07:55 > 0:07:57- ..and Hirallt.
0:07:58 > 0:08:01- However, - there are no hills to speak of.
0:08:01 > 0:08:03- It refers to the high ground.
0:08:03 > 0:08:05- Hirallt.
0:08:07 > 0:08:12- What happens to names - like Ynys Walltog and Draenog?
0:08:12 > 0:08:13- Are they still used?
0:08:13 > 0:08:15- Are they still used?- - No, I don't think so.
0:08:15 > 0:08:19- There are fewer Welsh speakers - in the area nowadays.
0:08:19 > 0:08:22- That's now called Target Rock.
0:08:22 > 0:08:24- Ynys Walltog is now Target Rock?
0:08:24 > 0:08:28- Yes. Y Draenog - doesn't even have a name now.
0:08:28 > 0:08:32- For years I used to think - it was called Bird Rock.
0:08:32 > 0:08:35- But it's Y Draenog. - Bird Rock is around the corner.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38- How has - the New Quay community changed?
0:08:39 > 0:08:41- There's no community in winter.
0:08:41 > 0:08:45- I'm lucky - on the street where I live...
0:08:45 > 0:08:48- ..that every house apart from one - is lived in.
0:08:48 > 0:08:53- Of the three terraces behind the - pier, only six houses out of 30...
0:08:54 > 0:08:55- ..are lived in.
0:08:56 > 0:08:59- I don't know what the answer is.
0:08:59 > 0:09:02- I've no idea - what should be done about it.
0:09:02 > 0:09:06- They trialled something - six months ago on the south coast.
0:09:06 > 0:09:09- But I've heard no more about it.
0:09:09 > 0:09:12- If I were selling my house - and one person offered me 6,000...
0:09:13 > 0:09:17- ..and the other offered 12,000, - I know which one would get it!
0:09:17 > 0:09:19- We're all the same.
0:09:27 > 0:09:27- .
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0:09:36 > 0:09:41- Our journey along Cardigan Bay by - boat, car and on foot continues...
0:09:41 > 0:09:44- ..as we reach - the south of the county...
0:09:44 > 0:09:47- ..in a part of the country - teeming with legends.
0:09:47 > 0:09:51- Some are archaic - whilst others are more contemporary.
0:09:59 > 0:10:03- Having left New Quay, we head - for the narrow beach of Cwmtydu.
0:10:03 > 0:10:08- It's possible that it's named after - an anonymous person called Tydu...
0:10:08 > 0:10:12- ..though there are several records - of the form Cwmtudur...
0:10:12 > 0:10:17- ..and local tradition associates - the place with Henry Tudor.
0:10:30 > 0:10:33- Whatever the truth - behind Tydu or Tudur...
0:10:33 > 0:10:36- ..there's a tradition - of recording names.
0:10:37 > 0:10:40- This rock beneath my foot - is called Craig yr Enwau.
0:10:40 > 0:10:45- Years ago, every big Thursday, - the third Thursday in August...
0:10:45 > 0:10:49- ..a festival was held here - with games such as quoits throwing.
0:10:49 > 0:10:54- Young people were challenged to swim - across the mouth of the bay...
0:10:54 > 0:10:56- ..from one side to the other.
0:10:57 > 0:11:01- The village's Sanhedrin would watch - from the top of the lime kiln.
0:11:01 > 0:11:05- If they were satisfied with what - they saw, they raised their thumbs.
0:11:05 > 0:11:10- The young people were then allowed - to carve their names into this rock.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14- Few of the names - have been preserved nowadays.
0:11:14 > 0:11:18- There's a photograph - in John Meirion Jones' book...
0:11:18 > 0:11:20- ..from the 1970s...
0:11:20 > 0:11:24- ..where the names - can be seen clearly in the rock.
0:11:24 > 0:11:28- We might've done more historical - things in this series...
0:11:28 > 0:11:31- ..but I don't think - we've been anywhere...
0:11:31 > 0:11:35- ..quite as fitting - as Craig yr Enwau (Rock of Names).
0:11:59 > 0:12:02- As I look at this narrow, - hidden beach...
0:12:02 > 0:12:06- ..it's hard to think - of anywhere more suitable...
0:12:06 > 0:12:09- ..for illegal nocturnal activities.
0:12:09 > 0:12:13- Cwmtydu beach - was one of the favourite haunts...
0:12:13 > 0:12:15- ..of the famous smuggler, - Sion Cwilt.
0:12:16 > 0:12:19- He'd cross the beacons - with his donkeys...
0:12:19 > 0:12:24- ..to meet ships that were - unloading wines, spirits and so on.
0:12:24 > 0:12:28- It's hard to imagine - how many contraband items...
0:12:28 > 0:12:33- ..passed over this gravel and sand - during the 18th century.
0:12:33 > 0:12:37- Even Sir Herbert Lloyd, - the area's high sheriff...
0:12:37 > 0:12:40- ..was one of Sion Cwilt's - most loyal customers.
0:12:43 > 0:12:47- Like every folk hero worth his salt, - Sion Cwilt's fate is unclear...
0:12:48 > 0:12:50- ..after he vanished from the area...
0:12:51 > 0:12:54- ..once the authorities - got wind of his antics.
0:12:54 > 0:12:57- There's also uncertainty - over his name.
0:13:03 > 0:13:08- It's possible that his real name - was John White or Sion Sais to some.
0:13:08 > 0:13:11- Some claim that the name Cwilt...
0:13:11 > 0:13:14- ..came from - the colourful coat he wore.
0:13:14 > 0:13:17- Others claim it's a corruption - of gwyllt (wild)...
0:13:18 > 0:13:20- ..which suits his character.
0:13:20 > 0:13:24- Whatever the truth behind the name, - the story proves one thing.
0:13:24 > 0:13:27- That not everyone in these parts - was a saint!
0:13:27 > 0:13:31- There are plenty of saints - to be had, mind you.
0:13:31 > 0:13:35- A few miles south of Cwmtydu - and we reach Llangrannog.
0:13:35 > 0:13:39- The Church of Saint Carannog.
0:13:41 > 0:13:46- Before the 16th century, Llangrannog - was better known as a cave...
0:13:46 > 0:13:50- ..after Ogof Carannog, - situated behind the church.
0:13:50 > 0:13:55- Churches are dedicated to him - in Brittany, Cornwall and Somerset.
0:13:55 > 0:13:58- They're all - far enough away from the sea...
0:13:58 > 0:14:03- ..to be out of sight of smugglers - who patrolled the coastline.
0:14:05 > 0:14:09- This dualism, the relationship - between land and sea...
0:14:09 > 0:14:12- ..has always shaped Llangrannog.
0:14:12 > 0:14:15- There were two villages here - originally.
0:14:15 > 0:14:20- Pentre'r Eglwys and Pentre'r Traeth, - with a strip of houses linking them.
0:14:22 > 0:14:27- Someone born and raised here and who - continues the fishing tradition...
0:14:27 > 0:14:29- ..is Mickey Beechey.
0:14:53 > 0:14:56- These yellow pots are all mine.
0:14:57 > 0:15:01- We'll follow the coastline - around to the first pot...
0:15:01 > 0:15:03- ..and we'll start lifting them then.
0:15:04 > 0:15:07- Can you see the first one?
0:15:07 > 0:15:08- Can you see its shape?
0:15:08 > 0:15:10- Can you see its shape?- - Yes, it's like that.
0:15:10 > 0:15:13- That's why they call it - Drws yr Eglwys.
0:15:13 > 0:15:16- It's perfect from this angle.
0:15:17 > 0:15:20- You see that cliff in the distance?
0:15:20 > 0:15:25- It's called Y Gaer Clwyd - but we refer to it as Garclwyd.
0:15:26 > 0:15:29- They say it's the highest cliff - in West Wales.
0:15:46 > 0:15:48- Let's see what we have here.
0:15:49 > 0:15:51- Lobster.
0:15:51 > 0:15:54- I think that's a little too small.
0:16:02 > 0:16:06- That's a good size. I don't have to - measure that one. That's fine.
0:16:10 > 0:16:13- There are a lot of ripples today.
0:16:13 > 0:16:17- They make it difficult because you - must keep the balance as you lift.
0:16:26 > 0:16:28- This is a good boat, Mickey.
0:16:28 > 0:16:34- It's a great shape. When it's - choppy, it cuts through the waves.
0:16:34 > 0:16:37- It makes you feel safe. - Do you feel safe in it?
0:16:37 > 0:16:39- Yes, I do.
0:16:39 > 0:16:43- How often do you - check the cages during the week?
0:16:43 > 0:16:47- Depends on the weather - but I could go out every day.
0:16:47 > 0:16:51- I have cages to catch lobster...
0:16:51 > 0:16:54- ..and nets to catch sea bass.
0:16:54 > 0:16:57- I'm sure - every day is different here.
0:16:57 > 0:17:01- I never tire of it. It lifts my - spirits. I don't know what it is.
0:17:01 > 0:17:07- I was born and raised in the village - and came fishing with my uncle...
0:17:07 > 0:17:10- ..and my brothers off Ynys Lochtyn - before we had a boat.
0:17:11 > 0:17:12- I never tire of the place.
0:17:12 > 0:17:16- I never tire of the place.- - There are worse offices to have!
0:17:16 > 0:17:20- There are lovely names dotted - all around from Llangrannog.
0:17:20 > 0:17:22- Names all the way along.
0:17:22 > 0:17:27- From the moment we left Traeth - Llangrannog or Traeth y Pentref.
0:17:28 > 0:17:33- But over the years, things have been - changed and people forget the names.
0:17:34 > 0:17:37- About 20 years ago...
0:17:38 > 0:17:42- ..I went to visit a local woman - called Beryl Jones, Angorfa.
0:17:42 > 0:17:47- I asked her what these places - were called when she was young.
0:17:47 > 0:17:51- I listed the names - of the cliffs, beaches and rocks...
0:17:52 > 0:17:55- ..and since then, we, - as Welsh-speaking locals...
0:17:55 > 0:17:58- ..have kept those names going.
0:17:58 > 0:18:03- From Traeth Llangrannog, you come - northwards to Traeth Cilborth...
0:18:03 > 0:18:07- ..and the next one up is Yr Ysglan.
0:18:07 > 0:18:09- Ysglan?
0:18:09 > 0:18:11- The next one up...
0:18:12 > 0:18:16- ..is Porth Henri - and then Pwll Dafydd and Pwll Ifan.
0:18:16 > 0:18:22- There's a large rock by Pwll Ifan - called Carreg Ifan.
0:18:22 > 0:18:25- I don't suppose - we know who Ifan was?
0:18:25 > 0:18:29- No, neither do we know - who Henri or Dafydd were.
0:18:29 > 0:18:31- But it's obvious these places...
0:18:32 > 0:18:35- ..were named after - the village's characters.
0:18:35 > 0:18:38- It's nice to retain those names.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43- People move in - from across the border...
0:18:43 > 0:18:48- ..and they just refer to them as - first bay, second bay, third bay...
0:18:48 > 0:18:50- ..which sounds very sad.
0:18:50 > 0:18:51- The history's gone then, isn't it?
0:18:51 > 0:18:53- The history's gone then, isn't it?- - Of course.
0:18:53 > 0:18:56- They all have Welsh names.
0:18:56 > 0:19:00- Legends are associated with them, - such as Carreg Bica.
0:19:00 > 0:19:05- A giant called Bica - complained of toothache one time.
0:19:05 > 0:19:11- He removed the tooth - that was causing him pain...
0:19:11 > 0:19:14- ..and threw it into the sea.
0:19:14 > 0:19:19- They claim that Carreg Bica - evolved from the giant's tooth.
0:19:19 > 0:19:21- It's an odd shape, isn't it?
0:19:21 > 0:19:26- I know you cast your net near - somewhere called Carreg y Morwynion.
0:19:26 > 0:19:30- Centuries ago, there was - a legend about three sisters...
0:19:30 > 0:19:34- ..who lived at either Morfa Canol - or Morfa Fechan Farm.
0:19:34 > 0:19:37- Legend has it - that the three sisters...
0:19:37 > 0:19:40- ..wanted to go swimming - on a Sunday, on the Sabbath....
0:19:41 > 0:19:44- ..but their mother - wasn't willing for them to go.
0:19:44 > 0:19:47- It was a sunny summer's day...
0:19:48 > 0:19:50- ..and they swam out to this rock.
0:19:50 > 0:19:54- Once they reached the rock, - the storm picked up...
0:19:54 > 0:19:57- ..the wind howled - and the sea became choppy.
0:19:57 > 0:20:02- They couldn't get back to the beach - and the three sisters drowned.
0:20:02 > 0:20:05- The legend, - which remains to this day...
0:20:05 > 0:20:10- ..is that if you go there at night, - you hear the three of them singing.
0:20:10 > 0:20:13- These legends - are entwined with the names.
0:20:14 > 0:20:18- If you lose the name, - then the legend dies with it.
0:20:18 > 0:20:19- Yes, indeed.
0:20:20 > 0:20:23- We're lucky as a family - and as a group of friends...
0:20:23 > 0:20:26- ..that we're all Welsh speakers.
0:20:26 > 0:20:29- I take my nieces and nephews - out on the boat.
0:20:30 > 0:20:33- I tell them the names - and they come fishing with me.
0:20:34 > 0:20:36- It's important we keep that going.
0:20:36 > 0:20:40- It connects us with villagers - from centuries ago.
0:20:40 > 0:20:43- Yes, so it's important - we keep it going.
0:20:43 > 0:20:49- It's easy enough to be lazy - and call it another name...
0:20:49 > 0:20:51- ..that's easier to pronounce...
0:20:51 > 0:20:54- ..but it's just a matter - of learning the name.
0:20:55 > 0:20:57- It's easy enough - to learn their names.
0:21:28 > 0:21:32- Tourism has since replaced fishing - as Llangrannog's main industry...
0:21:32 > 0:21:35- ..and is reflected - in the place names.
0:21:35 > 0:21:40- But names that have been forgotten - over time isn't a recent thing.
0:21:52 > 0:21:55- On high ground - looking down on Llangrannog...
0:21:56 > 0:21:59- ..on what was once - an important trading route...
0:21:59 > 0:22:02- ..between Cardigan - and north Ceredigion...
0:22:03 > 0:22:07- ..is a rock called Carreg Eisteddfa - where poets and dignitaries met.
0:22:07 > 0:22:11- People tried to create an - association with the Eisteddfod...
0:22:11 > 0:22:14- ..but that's a tenuous link.
0:22:14 > 0:22:17- It shows us how much history - exists in this area...
0:22:17 > 0:22:20- ..and how much of it we've lost.
0:22:20 > 0:22:24- Even if Carreg Eisteddfa doesn't - fulfil any specific purpose...
0:22:24 > 0:22:28- ..it's a great place to stall - at the end of a journey...
0:22:28 > 0:22:30- ..and reflect on life.
0:23:03 > 0:23:05- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:23:05 > 0:23:05- .