0:00:00 > 0:00:00- Subtitles
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0:00:04 > 0:00:08- We're on a journey - to discover names, folklore...
0:00:09 > 0:00:13- ..and stories along the shoreline - of Wales' largest bay.
0:00:13 > 0:00:15- Cardigan Bay.
0:00:15 > 0:00:19- Evidence of our existence here - is permanently chronicled...
0:00:19 > 0:00:22- ..in place names, old and new, - and even in the rock itself.
0:00:24 > 0:00:26- This is Arfordir Cymru.
0:00:35 > 0:00:38- This week we travel - from the Mawddach estuary...
0:00:38 > 0:00:42- ..southwards past Tywyn - and the Dysynni valley...
0:00:42 > 0:00:46- ..before veering back towards - the mainland up the river Dyfi.
0:00:57 > 0:01:01- It should come as no surprise - that art critic John Ruskin...
0:01:02 > 0:01:06- ..and poet Alfred Tennyson were - enchanted by the Mawddach's beauty.
0:01:06 > 0:01:10- The river is teeming - with wildlife...
0:01:10 > 0:01:14- ..and the skies are filled - with all kinds of birds.
0:01:16 > 0:01:20- As a gateway to Snowdonia or a - starting point along the Mawddach...
0:01:21 > 0:01:24- ..you can't do better - than Penmaenpool...
0:01:24 > 0:01:26- ..on the outskirts of Dolgellau.
0:01:27 > 0:01:30- The village was founded - to service Penmaenuchaf Hall...
0:01:30 > 0:01:33- ..but it now has plenty to offer - on its own.
0:01:36 > 0:01:41- Rhys Gwynn is the National Park - warden in this part of the world.
0:01:41 > 0:01:46- He's working on a project which not - only contributes to the landscape...
0:01:46 > 0:01:51- ..but also secures the names - of two rivers - Mawddach and Wnion.
0:01:54 > 0:01:59- I'm not sure what grabs - my attention first about this wall.
0:02:00 > 0:02:02- It's such an attractive feature.
0:02:02 > 0:02:05- People must constantly ask you - what is this?
0:02:05 > 0:02:07- It's attracted a lot of attention.
0:02:07 > 0:02:13- It was a project to re-establish - the garden behind the wall.
0:02:13 > 0:02:17- We've created a wild flower garden.
0:02:17 > 0:02:23- We saw it as an opportunity - to include names...
0:02:23 > 0:02:27- ..and bring a part - of the area's heritage alive.
0:02:28 > 0:02:31- Since we're on the banks - of the Mawddach...
0:02:31 > 0:02:35- ..it was decided to include - the names of old fishing pools.
0:02:36 > 0:02:38- Where are we on this wall?
0:02:38 > 0:02:43- We're in Llwnc y Penmaen - on a meander in the river.
0:02:43 > 0:02:45- It looks like a gullet.
0:02:46 > 0:02:50- You have the Wnion and the Mawddach.
0:02:50 > 0:02:52- This is a catalogue of names.
0:02:52 > 0:02:56- Yes. There are many more - but we had no room for anymore.
0:02:57 > 0:03:02- We chose the ones that had - a particular ring to them...
0:03:02 > 0:03:06- ..names that had - a certain story attached to them.
0:03:06 > 0:03:08- We have Llyn Dy Fendith at the end.
0:03:09 > 0:03:11- It sounds wonderful.
0:03:11 > 0:03:15- It is. I would say it was a pool - that yielded a lot of fish.
0:03:16 > 0:03:19- Then you have Llyn y Gadair Goch.
0:03:19 > 0:03:21- It doesn't exist anymore.
0:03:21 > 0:03:24- It was pool under the main bridge - in Dolgellau.
0:03:24 > 0:03:27- That's where witches were drowned - in Dolgellau.
0:03:28 > 0:03:30- The chair was lowered by a rope - into the pool.
0:03:31 > 0:03:35- If the chair and the accused witch - sunk, she was innocent!
0:03:35 > 0:03:37- By then, it was too late.
0:03:38 > 0:03:43- If the chair floated, she would be - lowered again until she sunk.
0:03:43 > 0:03:46- That was the law of the land - at the time.
0:03:46 > 0:03:52- Llyn Halen Mawr shows the influence - of the tide at its highest.
0:03:53 > 0:03:57- Y Draill is a wonderful word.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00- It's an ancient world relating - to using nets...
0:04:00 > 0:04:04- ..casting the nets in the pool - and trawling for fish.
0:04:05 > 0:04:07- You've used - more than one kind of stone.
0:04:08 > 0:04:12- Yes, I've tried to - use local stone...
0:04:12 > 0:04:16- ..or stone that reflects - the local geology.
0:04:17 > 0:04:21- There are some hard stones - which you'll find on Cader Idris...
0:04:21 > 0:04:23- ..and some smaller stones.
0:04:23 > 0:04:27- You'll find different kinds of stone - in this area.
0:04:27 > 0:04:30- To depict the flow of the water, - I used slate...
0:04:30 > 0:04:37- ..and as an outline for the river, - I used copper piping.
0:04:37 > 0:04:40- The final characteristic - is the wood.
0:04:40 > 0:04:44- I carved the salmon - it's meant - to be a salmon, it's close enough!
0:04:44 > 0:04:47- I carved it from wood - sourced in Marchynys...
0:04:47 > 0:04:50- ..one of the authority's forestries.
0:04:50 > 0:04:53- The only part that isn't local - is the salmon's eye.
0:04:54 > 0:04:57- It came from Llanrwst, from - a company that makes glass eyes!
0:04:58 > 0:05:01- How many hours do you estimate?
0:05:02 > 0:05:04- That's a very good question.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08- On some days, it took - a major effort to continue the work.
0:05:08 > 0:05:13- People would stop to talk and ask - about the meanings of the names.
0:05:14 > 0:05:16- That's why we built the wall...
0:05:16 > 0:05:19- ..to present - the heritage and the names...
0:05:19 > 0:05:21- ..to people who visited the area.
0:05:22 > 0:05:26- Great. Its legacy will last a long - time - it's a solid construction.
0:05:26 > 0:05:30- There's plenty of concrete in this! - It won't go far.
0:05:32 > 0:05:35- Rhys has chronicled - many names on the wall.
0:05:36 > 0:05:40- Many more have come from Gwyn - Williams, Borth y Gest's collection.
0:05:41 > 0:05:47- They're scattered along the Wnion - and around the town of Dolgellau.
0:05:48 > 0:05:50- There are fewer pools - along the Mawddach...
0:05:50 > 0:05:53- ..because it widens - towards its estuary...
0:05:53 > 0:05:55- ..but there are many islands...
0:05:55 > 0:05:58- ..Ynys Faig, Ynys Graianog - and Ynys Gyffylog.
0:06:14 > 0:06:16- With the river behind us...
0:06:16 > 0:06:21- ..heading south - past Llwyngwril and Llangelynnin...
0:06:21 > 0:06:24- ..we reach Traeth Felin Fraenan.
0:06:24 > 0:06:28- It has links to troubled times in - the history of the Welsh coastline.
0:06:44 > 0:06:47- This dark craggy rock - is Carreg Halen.
0:06:48 > 0:06:53- We'll encounter numerous Ogof Halen - and Traeth Halen on this journey.
0:06:54 > 0:06:59- These names emerged as a result of - activities along the Welsh coast...
0:06:59 > 0:07:03- ..during the eighteenth century - - smuggling!
0:07:08 > 0:07:12- Wine, spirits and tobacco - were transferred from ships...
0:07:12 > 0:07:15- ..to smaller boats - crewed by large, menacing men.
0:07:15 > 0:07:20- They were transported - to small beaches like these.
0:07:20 > 0:07:24- Not only were luxurious goods - smuggled here...
0:07:24 > 0:07:27- ..but salt was needed to cure meat.
0:07:28 > 0:07:30- There was a hefty tax on it - in this country.
0:07:30 > 0:07:34- It was cheap in Ireland and - the temptation was very evident.
0:07:34 > 0:07:40- You can imagine them smuggling it in - - there's shelter between two rocks.
0:07:40 > 0:07:45- Imagine a boat of around 25 feet, - maybe less...
0:07:45 > 0:07:50- ..sailing in at night, men working - quietly transferring the salt...
0:07:50 > 0:07:53- ..to others standing - on Carreg Halen...
0:07:53 > 0:07:58- ..who transported it inland away - from the gaze of the authorities.
0:08:13 > 0:08:16- When goods landed - on Traeth Felin Fraenan...
0:08:17 > 0:08:20- ..they were transported inland - along this hillside...
0:08:20 > 0:08:23- ..all the way to Dolgellau - and further afield.
0:08:24 > 0:08:26- Money wasn't always the currency.
0:08:26 > 0:08:31- Sometimes smuggled goods were traded - for legal goods such as butter.
0:08:31 > 0:08:35- It was an early form - of money laundering!
0:08:35 > 0:08:37- It was business on a vast scale.
0:08:38 > 0:08:43- Every layer of society, from - the rich to the poor, were involved.
0:08:54 > 0:08:58- In 1780, in a diary written - by a lady from Dolgellau...
0:08:58 > 0:09:01- ..there is a record - of a David Williams...
0:09:01 > 0:09:04- ..challenging the authorities here - in Hen-ddol, Arthog.
0:09:05 > 0:09:09- He had spent extensively on - the house and divided it into rooms.
0:09:12 > 0:09:15- The money spent - on making alterations...
0:09:15 > 0:09:17- ..came from dubious sources.
0:09:17 > 0:09:23- He was a farmer but he was also - a spy, a smuggler and a privateer.
0:09:23 > 0:09:26- In other words, - a pirate employed by the Crown...
0:09:26 > 0:09:29- ..to steal goods from foreign ships.
0:09:29 > 0:09:32- He was in dispute - with his employer...
0:09:33 > 0:09:36- ..because he didn't share - his spoils fairly.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39- David Williams wasn't the type - to adhere to rules.
0:09:39 > 0:09:43- Owen Owens the bailiff - arrived to arrest David Williams.
0:09:43 > 0:09:47- He owed the Crown 200 - for smuggled goods.
0:09:48 > 0:09:53- A siege ensued to rival anything - from the OK Corral.
0:09:53 > 0:09:57- Just like the Westerns, even though - three bailiffs were wounded...
0:09:57 > 0:10:00- ..good finally overcame evil.
0:10:00 > 0:10:06- When Owen Owens called for more - back-up, Williams was arrested.
0:10:06 > 0:10:10- That was the end of his - smuggling career, once and for all.
0:10:14 > 0:10:14- .
0:10:19 > 0:10:19- Subtitles
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0:10:23 > 0:10:26- We're on a journey - along Cardigan Bay.
0:10:26 > 0:10:31- We're heading inland where - the sea's influence stretches far...
0:10:31 > 0:10:36- ..even though the waves disappeared - a long time ago.
0:10:36 > 0:10:38- The origin of Dysynni is very vague.
0:10:38 > 0:10:42- The river separates the commotes - of Ystumanner and Tal-y-bont.
0:10:43 > 0:10:46- The name may come from the Welsh - for 'a river separates'.
0:10:47 > 0:10:51- One thing that is certain is it's - floodplain was wetter years ago...
0:10:52 > 0:10:55- ..when the sea ebbed and flowed - across the valley floor.
0:10:56 > 0:11:00- The cormorant has nested on - Craig yr Aderyn since before time.
0:11:01 > 0:11:04- This large black bird - frightens some people...
0:11:04 > 0:11:08- ..and you could argue - that it is primitive in appearance.
0:11:09 > 0:11:11- They are great fishers.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14- In Japan, people tie string - around their necks...
0:11:14 > 0:11:18- ..to limit them - to eating only the smallest fish.
0:11:18 > 0:11:21- They then leave the larger fish - for the fishermen.
0:11:21 > 0:11:23- Fortunately, - that doesn't happen here.
0:11:23 > 0:11:27- For one thing, - we're miles from the sea.
0:11:30 > 0:11:36- I'm told that this is the furthest - inland that the cormorant nests.
0:11:36 > 0:11:39- When the sea flowed - as far inland as this...
0:11:40 > 0:11:42- ..they would nest - on Craig yr Aderyn.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45- When the sea retreated, - they stayed here.
0:11:46 > 0:11:49- A local farmer told me - he sees fewer these days.
0:11:49 > 0:11:55- Maybe they finally realise - how far they are from the sea now.
0:12:01 > 0:12:06- The Talyllyn train line - links Abergynolwyn with Tywyn.
0:12:06 > 0:12:10- To travel back to the coast, - I head to Dolgoch station.
0:12:19 > 0:12:26- On the station map, you can see - clearly where the sea once was.
0:12:26 > 0:12:30- It flowed up the Dysynni valley - to Craig yr Aderyn and beyond.
0:12:31 > 0:12:34- We're now down here, - at Dolgoch station.
0:12:34 > 0:12:38- We're heading to Tywyn - in a very special train.
0:13:14 > 0:13:19- In 1951, this was the world's first - line to be awarded heritage status.
0:13:20 > 0:13:24- The Reverend Wilbert Awdry - was a volunteer on the line.
0:13:24 > 0:13:28- The colourful little trains - inspired him...
0:13:28 > 0:13:31- ..to write - The Thomas The Tank Engine books.
0:13:32 > 0:13:37- Along this line, slate from - Aberllefenni and Abergynolwyn...
0:13:37 > 0:13:41- ..were transported to Tywyn - to be exported on ships.
0:13:41 > 0:13:45- The name Tywyn derives from - the Welsh word for sand dune.
0:13:45 > 0:13:48- Extensive sand dunes can still - be found to the north and south.
0:13:49 > 0:13:54- St Cadfan administered a religious - community here in the sixth century.
0:13:54 > 0:13:57- Cadfan also founded a monastery - on Bardsey Island.
0:13:57 > 0:14:00- Here, you will find a church - dedicated to him.
0:14:00 > 0:14:01- It is one of our true treasures.
0:14:04 > 0:14:08- The oldest parts of this church - date back to the 12th century.
0:14:08 > 0:14:13- A church stood here prior to then - and survived a Viking attack in 963.
0:14:14 > 0:14:17- This church, - with its arches and pillars...
0:14:18 > 0:14:21- ..is a feat - of Romanesque architecture.
0:14:21 > 0:14:23- It has one or two secrets too.
0:14:27 > 0:14:29- This is Cadfan's stone.
0:14:30 > 0:14:33- It has been given - little attention...
0:14:33 > 0:14:38- ..but it shows the earliest - evidence of written Welsh.
0:14:39 > 0:14:42- Some date it from the ninth - century, some from the seventh.
0:14:42 > 0:14:46- It has been exposed to elements - for long periods.
0:14:46 > 0:14:52- Some suggest that it was once used - as a gate post.
0:14:52 > 0:14:56- It's difficult to read - the writing on the stone.
0:14:56 > 0:14:59- Part of the - Welsh inscription reads...
0:14:59 > 0:15:05- .."Tengrumui wedded wife of Adgan, - a mortal wound remains."
0:15:05 > 0:15:08- Agonising words, - simple in some respects...
0:15:08 > 0:15:11- ..which became the foundation - of everything that followed.
0:15:27 > 0:15:33- The Dysynni meanders along the - valley floor towards Broad Water.
0:15:33 > 0:15:37- Morgan Vaughan - is a pillar of this community.
0:15:37 > 0:15:40- His roots are deep - in this fertile land.
0:15:42 > 0:15:47- Well, Morgan, there's a lovely view - of Tywyn from up here.
0:15:47 > 0:15:50- Yes, most definitely.
0:15:50 > 0:15:56- We're looking out across - the Dysynni valley in all its glory.
0:15:57 > 0:15:59- To the right, Broad Water.
0:16:00 > 0:16:02- That large expanse of water.
0:16:03 > 0:16:07- The Dysynni flows through it...
0:16:07 > 0:16:10- ..and out to sea in Tonfannau.
0:16:10 > 0:16:14- During wartime, - there were 10,000 soldiers here...
0:16:14 > 0:16:17- ..between Tonfannau - and the sea marsh.
0:16:17 > 0:16:21- As many as 10,000 soldiers.
0:16:21 > 0:16:25- Your family's roots are in Cwm - Maethlon, just beyond these hills.
0:16:26 > 0:16:28- Most definitely.
0:16:29 > 0:16:33- I was born in the highest farm - in the valley, in Dysyrnant.
0:16:33 > 0:16:36- From there, I walked to school.
0:16:36 > 0:16:42- These papers here chronicle - that my father's grandfather...
0:16:43 > 0:16:47- ..was appointed - as a constable during his lifetime.
0:16:47 > 0:16:49- It shows it here.
0:16:49 > 0:16:50- It shows it here.- - There's a date on it.
0:16:51 > 0:16:53- There's a date on it here.
0:16:53 > 0:16:54- 1867.
0:16:54 > 0:16:59- My family's history stretches back - in these parts for many years.
0:16:59 > 0:17:01- How long have you lived here?
0:17:01 > 0:17:03- We look down on your farm from here.
0:17:04 > 0:17:06- We're looking down - on Pall Mall from here.
0:17:07 > 0:17:11- You wouldn't expect a local farm - to be called Pall Mall.
0:17:12 > 0:17:15- They tell me that the farmhouse...
0:17:15 > 0:17:18- ..has been called Pall Mall - for many years.
0:17:18 > 0:17:23- It was built by an Englishman - from London...
0:17:23 > 0:17:28- ..and he built another house nearby - called Piccadilly.
0:17:30 > 0:17:34- You farm this flat land - at the bottom.
0:17:34 > 0:17:37- I ploughed these fields for years.
0:17:37 > 0:17:42- Even to this day, tree trunks - can still be found here.
0:17:43 > 0:17:45- At one time...
0:17:45 > 0:17:48- ..trees were grown...
0:17:48 > 0:17:50- ..across this valley floor.
0:17:52 > 0:17:57- Speaking to you here, I can sense - the pride you have about this area.
0:17:58 > 0:18:02- On a day like this, I'm full - of admiration - it's wonderful.
0:18:02 > 0:18:06- Had you been here yesterday, - it was a different story.
0:18:06 > 0:18:10- You could see nothing, you couldn't - see more than 100 yards ahead.
0:18:11 > 0:18:14- Today, it shows the Dysynni valley - in all its glory.
0:18:14 > 0:18:16- We have reason to be grateful.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19- We don't show that gratitude - often enough.
0:18:24 > 0:18:27- Cwm Maethlon - is a sheltered wooded valley.
0:18:27 > 0:18:30- It can be found inland - between Tywyn and Aberdyfi.
0:18:31 > 0:18:34- More recently, - it's been called Happy Valley...
0:18:34 > 0:18:37- ..following the growth of Aberdyfi - as a Victorian resort.
0:18:42 > 0:18:46- The next substantial river - we encounter is the Dyfi.
0:18:46 > 0:18:50- Dafydd ap Gwilym once - extolled its serenity in verse...
0:18:50 > 0:18:53- ..requesting blessed protection - to cross it.
0:18:53 > 0:18:58- Dyfi comes from du (black) - due to the riverbed's dark colour.
0:18:58 > 0:19:03- Its waters have provided life - and livelihoods to the locality.
0:19:04 > 0:19:06- Aberdyfi has two distinct pasts.
0:19:06 > 0:19:10- Its earliest successes - were not due to its harbour.
0:19:10 > 0:19:15- It was a flourishing centre - for herring fishing.
0:19:15 > 0:19:18- One night in 1745...
0:19:18 > 0:19:23- ..Aberdyfi fishermen - landed a thousand casks of herring.
0:19:25 > 0:19:29- Aberdyfi achieved further success - as a harbour town...
0:19:29 > 0:19:32- ..after the Cambrian railways - were founded.
0:19:32 > 0:19:36- It was possible to bring slate - from Abergynolwyn...
0:19:36 > 0:19:40- ..transfer the load to ships - and export it around the world.
0:19:41 > 0:19:43- The river is a quieter place today.
0:19:43 > 0:19:47- It's quiet enough - to venture out with a fishing rod.
0:19:58 > 0:20:00- Few nets can be seen - on the river today.
0:20:01 > 0:20:04- Fishing is more a pastime - than a livelihood now.
0:20:06 > 0:20:10- Rod fishing continues to be popular.
0:20:10 > 0:20:16- Illtyd Griffiths has fished the - Dyfi's dark depths for many years.
0:20:19 > 0:20:22- How old were you - when you started fishing?
0:20:22 > 0:20:25- I started fishing - when I was four years old.
0:20:25 > 0:20:27- How long have you fished the Dyfi?
0:20:27 > 0:20:29- How long have you fished the Dyfi?- - I started in the '70s.
0:20:29 > 0:20:32- I had a full permit in the '80s.
0:20:32 > 0:20:37- I've been here fishing - for over 30 years.
0:20:38 > 0:20:40- It's a pleasure to fish this river.
0:20:41 > 0:20:43- This river - has a lot of history to it.
0:20:43 > 0:20:45- It was a private river.
0:20:45 > 0:20:49- The Marquis of Londonderry - lived in Plas Machynlleth.
0:20:50 > 0:20:55- Only friends and the elite...
0:20:55 > 0:20:57- The wealthy!
0:20:57 > 0:21:00- Only the wealthy - were allowed to fish the river.
0:21:00 > 0:21:05- This incensed the locals - and a lot of poaching took place.
0:21:06 > 0:21:11- In 1929, he transferred - the right to fish the river...
0:21:11 > 0:21:14- ..to the people of Machynlleth.
0:21:15 > 0:21:16- There were many rules.
0:21:16 > 0:21:17- There were many rules.- - Many rules.
0:21:17 > 0:21:19- You can only fly fish on this river.
0:21:20 > 0:21:21- And no fishing on a Sunday.
0:21:21 > 0:21:23- And no fishing on a Sunday.- - No fishing on a Sunday.
0:21:23 > 0:21:26- This is the only river - in Wales where this happens.
0:21:27 > 0:21:30- Many rivers have names - for different pools.
0:21:30 > 0:21:33- The same is true of this river.
0:21:33 > 0:21:36- Craig-y-penrhyn is the pool - down in that corner.
0:21:37 > 0:21:40- Above the bridge, - you'll find Ffridd...
0:21:40 > 0:21:43- ..St John's, Llyn y Tanc, Glandwr...
0:21:43 > 0:21:47- ..Llyn y Catch, - Siwellyn, Siwellyn Fach...
0:21:47 > 0:21:49- ..Llyn y Cwch, Abergwydol.
0:21:50 > 0:21:51- Tell me more about Llyn y Cwch.
0:21:52 > 0:21:55- Years ago, - you could make a living....
0:21:55 > 0:21:59- ..taking people and livestock - across the river by boat.
0:21:59 > 0:22:03- They could come from Llanwrin to - the back road along the main road...
0:22:04 > 0:22:06- ..or they could just - cross the river.
0:22:06 > 0:22:08- A boat would ferry them - back and forth.
0:22:09 > 0:22:11- Are there names from here - down to the sea?
0:22:12 > 0:22:15- You pass Dolau Llwyd, Pen Ddol...
0:22:16 > 0:22:19- ..the Wattles, Llyn Morgan...
0:22:19 > 0:22:21- ..Dolgelynen...
0:22:21 > 0:22:25- ..all the way down to Rhiwlas - and there's a pool called Lime Kiln.
0:22:26 > 0:22:28- I don't know much - about its history...
0:22:28 > 0:22:31- ..but Derwenlas was a harbour - back in the day.
0:22:32 > 0:22:34- Does the sea - influence the river today?
0:22:34 > 0:22:37- When the tide comes in, - it goes quiet.
0:22:37 > 0:22:40- When the tide's out, - fish start biting again.
0:22:40 > 0:22:44- After the tide, - it's a good time to catch fish.
0:22:44 > 0:22:47- The sea has influence - a long way inland.
0:22:47 > 0:22:51- And beyond. You can feel its - influence for miles up this river.
0:22:51 > 0:22:53- Yes. I can't tell you why.
0:22:53 > 0:22:59- It's not only - where the sea meets the river...
0:23:00 > 0:23:02- ..but a lot further upriver.
0:23:09 > 0:23:11- As I sit on the riverbank - late into the day...
0:23:12 > 0:23:15- ..I can feel the river's - quiet, enchanting energy.
0:23:15 > 0:23:17- Much has changed over the decades...
0:23:17 > 0:23:21- ..but it still - has established traditions...
0:23:21 > 0:23:24- ..echoing a different, - more relaxed era.
0:23:24 > 0:23:28- I must say, - I find that rather comforting.
0:23:44 > 0:23:46- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:23:46 > 0:23:47- .