0:00:00 > 0:00:00- Subtitles
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:00:23 > 0:00:28- This diary is a priceless record of - the landscape of a corner of Wales.
0:00:28 > 0:00:33- This time, we visit Anglesey and - this book will be our cornerstone.
0:00:33 > 0:00:35- Welcome to Caeau Cymru.
0:00:39 > 0:00:42- This series takes us - around the whole of Wales...
0:00:42 > 0:00:46- ..in our quest to uncover - the history of field names.
0:00:50 > 0:00:55- With help from farmers and experts, - I try to unlock the secrets...
0:00:56 > 0:01:00- ..of the hidden history - of the Welsh countryside.
0:01:01 > 0:01:05- Dr Rhian Parry, the - landscape historian, is by my side.
0:01:08 > 0:01:12- Our journey begins - at Bangor University Archives.
0:01:12 > 0:01:16- It's not unusual for us - to look at a Tithe map, Rhian...
0:01:16 > 0:01:19- ..but this one - is different from the norm.
0:01:19 > 0:01:23- We also have a diary here, - but tell me about the map first.
0:01:24 > 0:01:27- It's a map of Brynddu estate, - on Anglesey.
0:01:27 > 0:01:29- It was created in 1773...
0:01:30 > 0:01:35- ..and it shows the farms - which formed the Brynddu estate.
0:01:37 > 0:01:40- The diary - was written by William Bulkeley.
0:01:42 > 0:01:44- In it, he often describes...
0:01:45 > 0:01:48- ..what was happening - in the fields...
0:01:49 > 0:01:52- ..and how he created those fields - in the first place.
0:01:53 > 0:01:58- We tend to assume fields have always - been there, but that's not the case.
0:01:59 > 0:02:05- Boundaries were set out and fields - were created in the 18th century.
0:02:05 > 0:02:09- The diary takes us through - that process, step by step.
0:02:13 > 0:02:18- The Llanfechell area of Anglesey - is under our microscope this time.
0:02:18 > 0:02:20- In addition to Brynddu...
0:02:20 > 0:02:24- ..we'll also visit Brynclyni farm - and Coedan farm.
0:02:24 > 0:02:28- We can see on the 1878 estate map...
0:02:28 > 0:02:31- ..that these farms - were part of Brynddu estate.
0:02:32 > 0:02:36- There are fascinating fields there - which are well worth a visit.
0:02:37 > 0:02:40- Records of field names - on the maps are sparse.
0:02:41 > 0:02:46- That's why William Bulkeley's - diaries are so crucial to our story.
0:02:47 > 0:02:48- He was born in 1691...
0:02:48 > 0:02:53- ..and a house has stood - on this site since the 17th century.
0:02:53 > 0:02:57- The influential - Bulkeley family's ancestry...
0:02:57 > 0:03:00- ..can be traced back - to the Middle Ages.
0:03:01 > 0:03:03- Emlyn Richards, a local author...
0:03:03 > 0:03:06- ..tells me more - about William Bulkeley.
0:03:07 > 0:03:13- There's something very endearing - about William Bulkeley, the diarist.
0:03:13 > 0:03:18- It's a real pleasure - to read about his life story.
0:03:22 > 0:03:26- The majority of the old squires - lived pretty soulless lives.
0:03:27 > 0:03:31- They did nothing but drink all day - and go on trips to London.
0:03:31 > 0:03:35- But this one was home, - on his estate.
0:03:36 > 0:03:39- He had a great relationship - with people.
0:03:39 > 0:03:43- When he went to Beaumaris - and attended the Sessions there...
0:03:44 > 0:03:48- ..he sat there for a week - and he enjoyed himself...
0:03:48 > 0:03:51- ..in the company - of the great and the good.
0:03:51 > 0:03:55- And yet, he could return home - to Llanfechell...
0:03:55 > 0:04:01- ..and feel equally at ease - among the poor people here.
0:04:02 > 0:04:04- He felt so comfortable here...
0:04:04 > 0:04:08- ..he called everyone in Llanfechell - by their nicknames.
0:04:09 > 0:04:14- Can you tell me how he went about - improving the quality of the land?
0:04:14 > 0:04:18- In the 18th century, - all the land around here was boggy.
0:04:20 > 0:04:22- It yielded very little.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26- William was a very innovative man.
0:04:26 > 0:04:28- He was forward-thinking.
0:04:30 > 0:04:35- He was a pioneer who always - wanted to sample something new.
0:04:36 > 0:04:38- He fertilized this land.
0:04:38 > 0:04:41- He advised every tenant to do that.
0:04:43 > 0:04:46- Above all, he was the wall erector.
0:04:47 > 0:04:52- He was the man who created - the first fields in this area.
0:04:54 > 0:04:57- These walls - didn't appear here like magic.
0:04:57 > 0:05:01- William Bulkeley and his men - built them all.
0:05:01 > 0:05:06- They created fields - and gave them some wonderful names.
0:05:17 > 0:05:22- Rhian, we've heard quite a bit about - William Bulkeley and his diaries.
0:05:22 > 0:05:25- We can now see his handiwork.
0:05:25 > 0:05:29- Yes. We've just walked - from Cae'r Coed to Cae Coch.
0:05:31 > 0:05:35- We see here some of handiwork - of William Bulkeley.
0:05:37 > 0:05:38- He improved the land.
0:05:39 > 0:05:43- He opened a deep ditch - and built a bank beside it...
0:05:45 > 0:05:50- ..using the soil he dug - to create the ditch for the bank.
0:05:53 > 0:05:55- The soil must have been wet.
0:05:55 > 0:05:57- The soil must have been wet.- - Yes. It was poor quality land.
0:05:57 > 0:06:01- It was claggy land - and it was very open too.
0:06:03 > 0:06:05- It's hard to imagine this - as open land.
0:06:06 > 0:06:09- He talks in his diaries - about animals wandering...
0:06:10 > 0:06:15- ..and the trouble he had when they - gained access to his crops.
0:06:16 > 0:06:21- It was vital to open ditches - to drain away the surface water...
0:06:21 > 0:06:25- ..to build walls and to then - go ahead and improve the soil.
0:06:26 > 0:06:30- The field behind me is called - Cae'r Coed - Field Of Trees.
0:06:30 > 0:06:32- It's sloping ground...
0:06:32 > 0:06:36- ..so he opened a drain - rather than a ditch here.
0:06:36 > 0:06:38- These drains were very deep.
0:06:38 > 0:06:42- They're not visible today, - but they are there.
0:06:42 > 0:06:47- They carry water down the slope to - a ditch at the bottom of the field.
0:06:47 > 0:06:48- They're in working order?
0:06:48 > 0:06:49- They're in working order?- - They work perfectly.
0:06:54 > 0:06:57- As part of his efforts - to improve the land...
0:06:57 > 0:07:01- ..William Bulkeley imported trees - from Ireland.
0:07:01 > 0:07:04- Blackthorns and hawthorns - to plant in the hedges...
0:07:05 > 0:07:09- ..and trees to protect the estate - from strong winds.
0:07:10 > 0:07:15- He also planted cowslips in the - fields, as cows loved to eat them.
0:07:15 > 0:07:19- He certainly was an - agricultural pioneer in many ways.
0:07:20 > 0:07:25- Robin Grove-White, a descendent of - William Bulkeley, lives in Brynddu.
0:07:26 > 0:07:31- Do the diaries have any influence - on your life here today?
0:07:31 > 0:07:34- Do they help you - understand the land?
0:07:35 > 0:07:36- Yes.
0:07:39 > 0:07:43- The diaries - are very important to my family.
0:07:45 > 0:07:50- We certainly feel William Bulkeley's - spirit at the heart of our home...
0:07:50 > 0:07:52- ..here in Brynddu.
0:07:55 > 0:07:59- The diaries contain wonderful detail - about life in Llanfechell...
0:08:02 > 0:08:04- ..during the 18th century.
0:08:06 > 0:08:12- William also writes in great detail - about life at Brynddu itself.
0:08:13 > 0:08:18- These diaries - conjure up some very vivid images.
0:08:20 > 0:08:22- Are you proud of the diaries?
0:08:22 > 0:08:25- Yes, I'm extremely proud of them.
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- William Bulkeley - was an extraordinary character.
0:08:35 > 0:08:40- His writings - strengthen my understanding...
0:08:41 > 0:08:44- ..of my connection with Brynddu.
0:08:55 > 0:08:59- On we go to Brynclyni farm, - in search of a field name...
0:08:59 > 0:09:03- ..which has been lost - during the past few centuries.
0:09:09 > 0:09:12- You have some detective work for us.
0:09:12 > 0:09:13- You have some detective work for us.- - Yes.
0:09:14 > 0:09:18- We're armed with diary entries - which refer to Cae'r Iarlles.
0:09:18 > 0:09:23- William Bulkeley writes about - the agricultural practices there...
0:09:23 > 0:09:26- ..and this is - an excellent example of that.
0:09:28 > 0:09:32- "Today, I begin to open - The Great Ditch...
0:09:35 > 0:09:40- ..betwixt Cae'r Iarlles - and Cae Maen Arthur."
0:09:40 > 0:09:43- We're standing in Cae Maen Arthur.
0:09:44 > 0:09:47- There's certainly - a substantial ditch here.
0:09:48 > 0:09:52- It's reasonable to assume - that Cae'r Iarlles...
0:09:52 > 0:09:56- ..is the field - on the other side of the hedge.
0:09:57 > 0:10:00- We've located - a perviously lost field.
0:10:00 > 0:10:04- Should we be excited? Have we made - a significant discovery?
0:10:04 > 0:10:06- Yes, I think so.
0:10:06 > 0:10:10- This field name was lost - for a long period of time.
0:10:13 > 0:10:17- We now know the exact location - of Cae'r Iarlles.
0:10:23 > 0:10:25- As we see on our digital map...
0:10:25 > 0:10:29- ..our journey has taken us - from Brynddu to Brynclyni.
0:10:29 > 0:10:35- Following the detailed descriptions - in William Bulkeley's diaries...
0:10:35 > 0:10:39- ..and The Great Ditch he dug - alongside Cae Maen Arthur...
0:10:39 > 0:10:41- ..we found Cae'r Iarlles.
0:10:41 > 0:10:44- No record of it existed - on any map...
0:10:45 > 0:10:50- ..but we can now pinpoint the exact - location of Cae'r Iarlles...
0:10:50 > 0:10:53- ..and The Great Ditch.
0:10:54 > 0:10:57- We owe a huge debt of gratitude...
0:10:57 > 0:11:02- ..to researchers like Dafydd Wiliam - for their thorough work.
0:11:02 > 0:11:04- Your work made it possible for us...
0:11:05 > 0:11:08- ..to discover - the location of Cae'r Iarlles.
0:11:08 > 0:11:12- We were up there in the fields - very recently.
0:11:12 > 0:11:14- Can you tell me - how you went about...
0:11:14 > 0:11:18- ..carrying out your research - on the diaries?
0:11:21 > 0:11:25- I've known about these diaries - for many years...
0:11:25 > 0:11:30- ..and I must have read them - cover-to-cover at least ten times.
0:11:32 > 0:11:37- During that process, I extracted - all manner of things from them...
0:11:37 > 0:11:42- ..but searching for something - specific was a laborious task.
0:11:42 > 0:11:47- Two years ago, I decided to arrange - the content of the diaries...
0:11:47 > 0:11:49- ..under various headings.
0:11:51 > 0:11:53- Farming was one of those headings.
0:11:54 > 0:11:59- The majority of the diaries' - content comes under that heading.
0:12:00 > 0:12:05- If you wanted to write a book - in the future, it's all organized.
0:12:07 > 0:12:10- You mentioned Cae'r Iarlles - - Countess's Field.
0:12:10 > 0:12:12- The name sounds medieval...
0:12:13 > 0:12:16- ..but we have no idea - who this countess was.
0:12:16 > 0:12:21- However, it's an enchanting name - and we can now locate the field.
0:12:21 > 0:12:24- When you go to a field - which has a specific name...
0:12:28 > 0:12:31- ..you feel a tingle - go down your spine...
0:12:31 > 0:12:34- ..and you feel - a sense of understanding.
0:12:37 > 0:12:42- The mysteries which surround our - field names fire the imagination.
0:12:42 > 0:12:45- Time can alter names - and some even disappear.
0:12:45 > 0:12:50- Finding the location of Cae'r - Iarlles has given something back...
0:12:51 > 0:12:54- ..even if we don't know - who or what the countess was.
0:12:56 > 0:12:57- .
0:13:00 > 0:13:00- Subtitles
0:13:00 > 0:13:02- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:13:15 > 0:13:18- We move on to our third location...
0:13:18 > 0:13:21- ..a stone's throw - from Brynddu and Brynclyni.
0:13:24 > 0:13:26- We've moved on to Coedan farm.
0:13:26 > 0:13:30- There's a link between - William Bulkeley and this place...
0:13:30 > 0:13:33- ..but we're going back even further.
0:13:33 > 0:13:36- Yes, we'll go back - 400 years further.
0:13:36 > 0:13:40- The name Coedan was recorded - on the Extent of 1352.
0:13:42 > 0:13:44- What is the Extent?
0:13:44 > 0:13:46- What is the Extent?- - It's a survey.
0:13:48 > 0:13:53- The Extent was a survey by the crown - to discover who owned what lands.
0:13:57 > 0:13:59- This place is ancient, in that case.
0:13:59 > 0:14:00- This place is ancient, in that case.- - Yes.
0:14:01 > 0:14:05- You can feel it, when you look down - at the old buildings.
0:14:05 > 0:14:08- It feels almost like - an ancient village.
0:14:08 > 0:14:10- Yes, it was an old township.
0:14:28 > 0:14:33- Coedan and the surrounding landscape - are important in ancient history.
0:14:36 > 0:14:40- That history lives on - through the current owners...
0:14:40 > 0:14:42- ..Liz and Wyn Rogers.
0:14:43 > 0:14:48- Liz and Wyn, - are you interested in field names?
0:14:49 > 0:14:53- Yes. I think it's important - to preserve field names.
0:14:55 > 0:14:57- Liz, do you agree?
0:14:57 > 0:15:02- Yes. I really fear these names will - be lost through the IACS scheme...
0:15:02 > 0:15:06- ..and people will use numbers - instead of the names.
0:15:06 > 0:15:10- I think it's important - for every farming family...
0:15:10 > 0:15:13- ..to make sure these names survive - into the future.
0:15:15 > 0:15:17- Do you use them on a daily basis?
0:15:17 > 0:15:19- Do you use them on a daily basis?- - Yes.
0:15:19 > 0:15:22- That's how we refer to the fields.
0:15:22 > 0:15:24- They're part of Coedan.
0:15:25 > 0:15:28- What field names on your farm - fire the imagination?
0:15:28 > 0:15:30- Do any of them grab you?
0:15:30 > 0:15:35- Yes. This place is a good example. - Llain Cywion - Chicks' Tract.
0:15:35 > 0:15:40- Another strip of land is called - Llain Gwsberies - Gooseberry Tract.
0:15:40 > 0:15:43- It was full of gooseberry bushes - in the 1950s...
0:15:44 > 0:15:48- ..but we started to keep sheep there - and the gooseberries vanished!
0:15:49 > 0:15:53- Wyn, have you been interested - in names since you were little?
0:15:53 > 0:15:56- No, I wasn't interested - when I was young...
0:15:57 > 0:16:00- ..but you take more notice of things - as you get older.
0:16:13 > 0:16:18- This is Cae 'Sgubor - Barn Field - because the barn's right there.
0:16:19 > 0:16:23- William Bulkeley mentions this field - in his diaries.
0:16:23 > 0:16:25- In what context?
0:16:25 > 0:16:29- He wrote about building walls here - and improving the soil.
0:16:30 > 0:16:34- He also carried lime and sand - from Benllech to this place.
0:16:34 > 0:16:40- He brought it around the sea - into Cemmaes Bay then on to here.
0:16:41 > 0:16:43- He scattered it on the land.
0:16:43 > 0:16:45- To loosen the soil.
0:16:46 > 0:16:50- It's exciting to read about - the history of these fields...
0:16:50 > 0:16:53- ..in William Bulkeley's diaries...
0:16:53 > 0:16:57- ..but your research takes us - one step further back in time.
0:16:57 > 0:17:00- Yes, we Googled the name Coedan...
0:17:00 > 0:17:05- ..and we discovered it's mentioned - in The Red Book Of Hergest...
0:17:05 > 0:17:08- ..which is stored - in Jesus College, Oxford.
0:17:08 > 0:17:13- A poem by Mab Y Clochyddyn, - written in 1351, mentions Coedan.
0:17:13 > 0:17:16- You can see it clearly - in the manuscript.
0:17:17 > 0:17:21- What's the link between the poem - and this piece of land?
0:17:23 > 0:17:28- It's a poem written by - Mab Y Clochyddyn for Gwenhwyfar...
0:17:29 > 0:17:34- ..who was the wife of Hywel ap Tudur - ap Gruffydd of Coedan.
0:17:36 > 0:17:39- The poet praises her - for her generosity in his poem.
0:17:40 > 0:17:44- She apparently gave the poet - wine, clothes and food...
0:17:46 > 0:17:49- ..and he repaid her - by writing this poem.
0:17:49 > 0:17:53- In the first verse, - he mentions Mynydd Mechell...
0:17:53 > 0:17:57- ..then he mentions Trum, - which is behind me here.
0:17:58 > 0:18:02- The poet also refers to Gwenhwyfar - as a Lady From Anglesey.
0:18:02 > 0:18:05- "Generous Lady from Mechell was she
0:18:05 > 0:18:07- "We lamented her passing
0:18:07 > 0:18:09- "A sorrowful collection are we
0:18:10 > 0:18:13- "A humble, brilliant beauty - With goodly grace
0:18:13 > 0:18:17- "Fair and just, she shared her wine
0:18:20 > 0:18:23- "Boldly I shouted - And toiled with my voice
0:18:23 > 0:18:27- "A clear, poignant cry - Which carries echoes of the past
0:18:28 > 0:18:31- "A poet cannot fend off - The power of missing her
0:18:31 > 0:18:34- "A considerate lady - From the Trum area
0:18:35 > 0:18:39- "Wise, beautiful, noble woman
0:18:40 > 0:18:45- "Sprightly, delicate Gwenhwyfar - With rose-like cheeks
0:18:45 > 0:18:50- "Enormous and intense distress - For the passing of an Anglesey lady
0:18:51 > 0:18:53- "In whom we had unswerving faith."
0:18:54 > 0:18:58- It's one thing to discuss - William Bulkeley's diaries...
0:18:58 > 0:19:01- ..which mention this place - back in 1734.
0:19:01 > 0:19:04- This poem goes back so much further.
0:19:04 > 0:19:06- This poem goes back so much further.- - Yes, and it's so important to us.
0:19:07 > 0:19:10- It's really made us stop and think.
0:19:10 > 0:19:13- We often look out of the window - at night...
0:19:14 > 0:19:17- ..and see the moon over Trum.
0:19:19 > 0:19:22- These poets saw the same sight - all those years ago.
0:19:37 > 0:19:41- Wyn, you've brought me to a field - which has a glorious name.
0:19:41 > 0:19:43- Yes. This is Cae Lloriau.
0:19:44 > 0:19:46- It's a 26 acre piece of land.
0:19:50 > 0:19:53- Finished cattle - do really well in this field.
0:19:53 > 0:19:56- Why is it called - Cae Lloriau - Floor Field?
0:19:57 > 0:20:01- I can only pass on - what my grandfather told me.
0:20:01 > 0:20:04- It's linked to the floors - of the buildings.
0:20:05 > 0:20:06- You can split this rock.
0:20:06 > 0:20:10- Every building has a floor - made of pieces of this rock...
0:20:11 > 0:20:14- ..and that's why - it's called Cae Lloriau.
0:20:14 > 0:20:17- They came up here, - quarried the stone...
0:20:18 > 0:20:21- ..split it - and used it for the floors.
0:20:21 > 0:20:23- When would that have been?
0:20:23 > 0:20:26- When would that have been?- - The old barn is 800 years old.
0:20:27 > 0:20:30- That gives you an idea - of the timeframe.
0:20:32 > 0:20:34- You were born and raised here.
0:20:34 > 0:20:37- You must have lots of stories - about the place.
0:20:37 > 0:20:42- I remember sheep being washed in - the river before they were sheared.
0:20:42 > 0:20:44- That was in the 1950s.
0:20:46 > 0:20:49- We played on these rocks, - as children.
0:20:50 > 0:20:55- Coedan is mentioned in the diaries - and in the Red Book Of Hergest.
0:20:55 > 0:20:58- How does it make you feel - to know your home is famous?
0:20:59 > 0:21:01- It's interesting.
0:21:01 > 0:21:06- As I get older, I appreciate the - history of this place more and more.
0:21:06 > 0:21:09- I love it and I'm learning things - all the time.
0:21:09 > 0:21:13- I wish I'd learned more about it - when I was younger.
0:21:13 > 0:21:15- It's fascinating.
0:21:26 > 0:21:28- June 12th, 1736.
0:21:30 > 0:21:33- "My people all this week carrying - of sand from Cemmaes...
0:21:33 > 0:21:35- ..to put on Cae'r Lloriau."
0:21:35 > 0:21:37- December 2nd, 1736.
0:21:38 > 0:21:41- "Today, my servants began to plough - Cae'r Lloriau in Coedan...
0:21:42 > 0:21:44- ..which was sanded last summer."
0:21:45 > 0:21:46- August 7th, 1737.
0:21:48 > 0:21:52- "Have 13 reapers today - at Cae'r Lloriau."
0:21:52 > 0:21:56- Reading William Bulkeley's words - here, in Cae'r Lloriau...
0:21:57 > 0:22:01- ..makes me feel that his voice - is reaching out to me...
0:22:01 > 0:22:03- ..across the centuries.
0:22:13 > 0:22:18- Discovering William Bulkeley - has been a real eye-opener for me.
0:22:19 > 0:22:22- Without his diaries, - we'd know very little.
0:22:22 > 0:22:27- We'd know next to nothing, - based on the existing Tithe maps.
0:22:29 > 0:22:32- The detailed descriptions - in the diaries...
0:22:33 > 0:22:36- ..tell us what he did, - step by step...
0:22:37 > 0:22:41- ..as he took a scientific approach - to developing this land.
0:22:42 > 0:22:46- We also catch a glimpse - of his vision, through the diaries.
0:22:46 > 0:22:49- They allow us to recognize - the difference...
0:22:49 > 0:22:54- ..between the landscape in the - 18th century and what we see today.
0:23:04 > 0:23:07- It's fitting to give - William Bulkeley the final word.
0:23:08 > 0:23:10- He wrote this on April 3rd, 1734.
0:23:12 > 0:23:15- "Cold and windy all day. - Dark and cloudy."
0:23:15 > 0:23:18- "Nothing besides worth mentioning."
0:23:38 > 0:23:40- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:23:40 > 0:23:41- .