Llanfihangel-ar-Arth

0:00:00 > 0:00:00- Subtitles

0:00:00 > 0:00:02- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:00:45 > 0:00:48- Let's begin - by looking at the Tithe maps.

0:00:49 > 0:00:52- Where will you take us - this week, Rhian?

0:00:53 > 0:00:59- To Penlan farm, which lies between - Llandysul and Llanfihangel-ar-arth.

0:00:59 > 0:01:04- It's an interesting area, - historically and archaeologically.

0:01:04 > 0:01:05- What about the field names?

0:01:05 > 0:01:08- What about the field names?- - They're equally interesting.

0:01:08 > 0:01:12- Each one has a tale to tell - and here are a few interesting ones.

0:01:13 > 0:01:17- Cae'r Odyn, Cae Pistyll - and Cae Bola Hawl.

0:01:18 > 0:01:20- Bola Hawl is a strange name.

0:01:21 > 0:01:23- There's also Cae Lilley here.

0:01:24 > 0:01:26- Are they good stories?

0:01:26 > 0:01:29- Are they good stories?- - Yes, including a tale about a wolf.

0:01:29 > 0:01:31- Really? Will we be safe?

0:01:31 > 0:01:33- Really? Will we be safe?- - Well, who knows!

0:01:38 > 0:01:41- Arwyn and Lydia Williams - are the farmers in Penlan.

0:01:42 > 0:01:45- Arwyn has been here for 60 years...

0:01:45 > 0:01:48- ..and he has a keen interest - in field names.

0:01:48 > 0:01:51- Names which are steeped in history.

0:01:56 > 0:01:59- Arwyn, have you always - farmed here, in Penlan?

0:02:00 > 0:02:02- Yes. For the past 60 years anyway.

0:02:03 > 0:02:07- Did the previous people - list the field names for you?

0:02:07 > 0:02:10- Yes. We bought the farm - from a brother and sister.

0:02:10 > 0:02:13- The sister lived here for a year.

0:02:13 > 0:02:16- Her house in Llandysul - was occupied.

0:02:16 > 0:02:19- She told us a lot of the stories - linked to the land.

0:02:19 > 0:02:23- We would have heard some of them - from our neighbours too.

0:02:24 > 0:02:27- Farmers knew the names - of next door's fields...

0:02:27 > 0:02:30- ..because we all helped each other.

0:02:30 > 0:02:34- We knew where everything was - and we knew the field names.

0:02:34 > 0:02:36- We used the names constantly.

0:02:37 > 0:02:40- The brother and sister - who owned the farm...

0:02:40 > 0:02:43- ..had heard all the stories - from their family?

0:02:44 > 0:02:45- Yes. They were raised here.

0:02:47 > 0:02:50- One of the Penlan fields - is called Cae Lilley.

0:02:51 > 0:02:53- That field is linked to an urn.

0:02:54 > 0:02:55- Can you tell me the story?

0:02:56 > 0:03:01- Jams went to plough the field, - as he'd done many times before.

0:03:01 > 0:03:05- They'd had a lot of rain and - he hadn't been up there for days.

0:03:05 > 0:03:08- He hit the urn and he came back, - as white as a sheet.

0:03:09 > 0:03:14- They called the police, the council - and the curator from Carmarthen.

0:03:14 > 0:03:18- They dug the urn out - and it drew a crowd from Llandysul!

0:03:19 > 0:03:23- It was 3,000 years old, - though it contained small bones.

0:03:23 > 0:03:25- They weren't human remains.

0:03:25 > 0:03:28- I think it contained rabbit bones.

0:03:29 > 0:03:33- I don't know, but it must have been - someone important.

0:03:34 > 0:03:35- How big was it?

0:03:35 > 0:03:37- How big was it?- - It's the biggest urn in Wales.

0:03:37 > 0:03:40- Who was buried there? - There's nothing here.

0:03:41 > 0:03:44- There was nothing anywhere. - It's old, isn't it?

0:03:47 > 0:03:50- The urn was discovered in 1938 - by Jams Davies...

0:03:50 > 0:03:53- ..the previous owner of Penlan farm.

0:03:54 > 0:03:58- The urn dates back to the - Bronze Age, around 3,000 years ago.

0:03:59 > 0:04:04- It is currently on display - at Bishop's Palace, Carmarthen...

0:04:05 > 0:04:07- ..the home of the county museum.

0:04:10 > 0:04:12- There's a burial place here.

0:04:13 > 0:04:15- In the middle of the Bronze Age...

0:04:17 > 0:04:22- ..they would burn the body and take - the bones of one person, usually...

0:04:22 > 0:04:26- ..and place them in an urn - similar to that one.

0:04:29 > 0:04:32- It would be buried - next to a smaller urn...

0:04:32 > 0:04:35- ..containing food for the journey.

0:04:35 > 0:04:39- They would then create - a mound of soil above it...

0:04:39 > 0:04:42- ..on which - they sometimes laid stones.

0:04:42 > 0:04:45- It disappeared a long time ago - from this site.

0:04:46 > 0:04:48- Why bury an urn - in a field on a hill?

0:04:49 > 0:04:50- For a very good reason.

0:04:50 > 0:04:54- The climate was very mild - in the middle of the Bronze Age.

0:04:55 > 0:04:59- In Wales, people took advantage - of the opportunity...

0:04:59 > 0:05:03- ..to leave the coastal areas - and head up, into the uplands.

0:05:04 > 0:05:10- They capitalized on fresh land - which had remained uncultivated.

0:05:12 > 0:05:15- They also selected - this particular location...

0:05:16 > 0:05:20- ..because you can see the tops of - the hills all around you.

0:05:21 > 0:05:25- You can follow the hilltops - with your eyes in a complete circle.

0:05:25 > 0:05:27- It forms a ring around you.

0:05:29 > 0:05:32- Do we know who these people were?

0:05:33 > 0:05:38- It was thought they were people - referred to as the Beaker People...

0:05:38 > 0:05:43- ..because of the shapes of the urns - in which they buried their dead.

0:05:43 > 0:05:47- It's now seen as unlikely - that a large number of them...

0:05:48 > 0:05:51- ..descended on our shores - and settled here.

0:05:52 > 0:05:54- It's thought they influenced us...

0:05:55 > 0:05:59- ..through people gathering - to trade goods.

0:06:00 > 0:06:03- If we use our imagination - and ignore the hedges...

0:06:04 > 0:06:06- ..we can imagine an open fire...

0:06:06 > 0:06:10- ..with people gathered around it - for a burial ceremony.

0:06:11 > 0:06:15- Yes, we can imagine these things - in the absence of any evidence.

0:06:16 > 0:06:18- It's important - to use your imagination.

0:06:19 > 0:06:21- The landscape was important to them.

0:06:25 > 0:06:26- If we look at our map...

0:06:26 > 0:06:31- ..we'll get an idea of the fields - surrounding Penlan farmhouse.

0:06:31 > 0:06:35- Some of the names listed - on the Tithe map are still in use...

0:06:36 > 0:06:38- ..and others have been changed.

0:06:38 > 0:06:42- Cae Pistyll and Cae'r Odyn - are original names...

0:06:42 > 0:06:45- ..but Cae Lilley, - where the urn was discovered...

0:06:46 > 0:06:49- ..is listed in the schedules - as Cae Cely.

0:06:49 > 0:06:52- Cely may be - a corrupted form of Lilley.

0:06:53 > 0:06:57- There's a fascinating story - behind the name Lilley.

0:06:57 > 0:07:01- Local historian, David Thorne, - knows all about it.

0:07:03 > 0:07:05- We're sitting in Cae Lilley.

0:07:06 > 0:07:08- What's the story behind the name?

0:07:09 > 0:07:11- Lilley is the name of a person.

0:07:11 > 0:07:15- We can make a direct link - between the name Lilley...

0:07:15 > 0:07:16- ..and a real person.

0:07:17 > 0:07:20- Lilley was a villain - from Pembrokeshire.

0:07:20 > 0:07:23- He was imprisoned - in Haverfordwest...

0:07:23 > 0:07:27- ..but he managed to escape - while he was awaiting deportation.

0:07:28 > 0:07:33- He went on the run and he ended up - here, in Llanfihangel-ar-arth...

0:07:33 > 0:07:37- ..where he met the - equally villainous Captain Owens.

0:07:37 > 0:07:42- Lilley was shot by Captain Owens - and he was buried in this field.

0:07:42 > 0:07:46- They say Lilley's ghost - still wanders around this land.

0:07:46 > 0:07:51- Captain Owens was prosecuted - for murder and he was hanged.

0:07:51 > 0:07:54- As the legend spread - through word of mouth...

0:07:55 > 0:07:58- ..the name changed from Lilley - to Lili Wen.

0:08:00 > 0:08:05- Nantlais, the poet, was a minister - in Llanfihangel-ar-arth.

0:08:06 > 0:08:08- He refers to - the legend of Lili Wen...

0:08:09 > 0:08:12- ..in one of his - autobiographical essays.

0:08:13 > 0:08:15- Apparently, the ghost of Lili Wen...

0:08:15 > 0:08:18- ..appeared regularly - on Alltwalis hill.

0:08:19 > 0:08:23- One of the local boys decided to - challenge the ghost one night.

0:08:24 > 0:08:26- Out he went, wielding an axe.

0:08:26 > 0:08:31- He felt the need to be armed, - in case of emergency.

0:08:31 > 0:08:36- And that was the last anyone heard - of the ghost of Lili Wen...

0:08:36 > 0:08:41- ..but the legend lives on, - especially here in Cae Lilley.

0:09:03 > 0:09:06- Arwyn, you've lived in Penlan - for almost 60 years.

0:09:07 > 0:09:09- You must have seen - countless changes.

0:09:10 > 0:09:11- Yes. Incredible changes.

0:09:12 > 0:09:16- The biggest change has happened - during harvesting time.

0:09:16 > 0:09:22- A crowd would come and help with the - harvest but there's nothing today.

0:09:22 > 0:09:25- There would be a full house - here to eat meals.

0:09:25 > 0:09:27- The women worked hard.

0:09:27 > 0:09:29- The pace of life was slower.

0:09:29 > 0:09:32- There was plenty of time - to get everything done.

0:09:34 > 0:09:35- It's all changed.

0:09:35 > 0:09:38- When I was a boy, - horses did the work.

0:09:38 > 0:09:42- Two loads done by lunch, - two more done by tea...

0:09:42 > 0:09:44- ..and two done by milking.

0:09:44 > 0:09:46- We did everything by hand.

0:09:46 > 0:09:50- We used a pick, a shovel, - a pitchfork and a wheelbarrow.

0:09:51 > 0:09:54- What's been the biggest improvement?

0:09:56 > 0:10:00- The tractors on the farm - are the biggest improvement.

0:10:00 > 0:10:02- The milking machine too.

0:10:02 > 0:10:06- Everyone sold milk, - even if they only had three cows.

0:10:06 > 0:10:08- You don't see that any more.

0:10:08 > 0:10:13- The milk tanker signalled the end - for small dairy farms like us.

0:10:13 > 0:10:16- It wasn't worth their while.

0:10:32 > 0:10:36- We often hear people say - the characters have disappeared.

0:10:37 > 0:10:38- Nonsense!

0:10:38 > 0:10:41- There are still - people like Arwyn around.

0:10:41 > 0:10:46- Something about Llanfihangel-ar-arth - must attract them.

0:10:46 > 0:10:50- The story of Lilley being killed - by Captain Owens in that field...

0:10:51 > 0:10:55- ..itself proves that the legend - of the ghost of Lilley is alive.

0:10:55 > 0:10:58- Who knows what might - have happened...

0:10:58 > 0:11:03- ..had that lad not tackled - the ghost of Lili Wen with an axe!

0:11:03 > 0:11:05- Maybe the ghost - would still be with us.

0:11:17 > 0:11:17- .

0:11:21 > 0:11:21- Subtitles

0:11:21 > 0:11:23- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:11:26 > 0:11:31- So far, we've heard a handful of - stories relating to Penlan fields...

0:11:31 > 0:11:33- ..and there's more to come.

0:11:33 > 0:11:36- One field is linked - to a fierce creature...

0:11:37 > 0:11:40- ..which roamed the land - before fields existed.

0:11:40 > 0:11:45- First, a field linked to a farming - tradition which vanished long ago.

0:11:54 > 0:11:57- David, here we are - in Cae'r Odyn - Oast Field.

0:11:57 > 0:11:59- What was an oast?

0:12:01 > 0:12:06- It was a primitive but effective - kiln which was used to dry grain.

0:12:07 > 0:12:11- It included a deep ditch - which was five or six metres long...

0:12:12 > 0:12:15- ..with a firepit built - at one end of it.

0:12:15 > 0:12:20- At the other end, there would be - a fragile, thatched timber building.

0:12:20 > 0:12:22- That would be the drying room.

0:12:23 > 0:12:27- A kiln cloth - would be draped over the roof...

0:12:28 > 0:12:31- ..and the grain - was placed on this cloth to dry.

0:12:33 > 0:12:38- Would it be dynamic, visually, with - the huge fire and all that smoke?

0:12:38 > 0:12:41- Yes, but the stoker - controlled the smoke.

0:12:41 > 0:12:44- Excessive smoke - would ruin the grain.

0:12:46 > 0:12:51- He was responsible for controlling - the intensity of the fire.

0:12:51 > 0:12:54- He was also responsible - for drying the grain...

0:12:55 > 0:12:59- ..and he would collect the - dried grain and take it to the mill.

0:13:01 > 0:13:05- Remains of Medieval oasts - have been discovered...

0:13:05 > 0:13:10- ..and field oasts were used - in this area until around 1850.

0:13:11 > 0:13:15- The mills then started to offer - a service of drying grain...

0:13:15 > 0:13:17- ..and grinding it into flour.

0:13:17 > 0:13:20- That was more convenient - for the farmer.

0:13:21 > 0:13:25- Do records tell us - how much grain was dried here?

0:13:25 > 0:13:29- The work of carrying out - an 1801 government survey...

0:13:29 > 0:13:34- ..was given to local bishops, - who passed it on to local priests.

0:13:36 > 0:13:40- The records collected here, - in Llanfihangel-ar-arth...

0:13:41 > 0:13:45- ..includes a note added by a priest - before handing it to the bishop.

0:13:46 > 0:13:48- In it, he expressed doubts...

0:13:48 > 0:13:52- ..that the figures given to him - by local farmers are accurate.

0:13:52 > 0:13:57- The reason for that being - they feared their taxes would rise.

0:13:57 > 0:14:00- Nothing much changes - in the farming world!

0:14:15 > 0:14:18- Arwyn, we've come - to another part of the farm.

0:14:18 > 0:14:22- The land slopes sharply - to the valley from here.

0:14:22 > 0:14:24- What are the names of these fields?

0:14:25 > 0:14:28- This is Pen Yr Allt Goch - - Top Of the Red Hill.

0:14:28 > 0:14:32- This field is at the top of - the red hill, or oak tree hill.

0:14:32 > 0:14:35- The leaves turn red in the autumn.

0:14:36 > 0:14:39- The leaves change colour?

0:14:39 > 0:14:41- The leaves change colour?- - Yes. They're red in the autumn.

0:14:43 > 0:14:46- You're so interested - in field names...

0:14:46 > 0:14:50- ..you went to the National Library - to see the Tithe Maps.

0:14:51 > 0:14:55- Yes, but I'd forgotten my glasses - and it was dark in there...

0:14:55 > 0:14:59- ..but I saw lots of field names - on my farm and on nearby farms.

0:15:00 > 0:15:04- Before you saw the Tithe Maps, - what did you call this field?

0:15:04 > 0:15:08- Cae Bach Uwchben Yr Allt - - Small Field Above The Hill.

0:15:08 > 0:15:12- The Tithe Maps show it's called - Cae'r Hiw, so we changed the name.

0:15:13 > 0:15:17- Has the land improved, - thanks to these modern chemicals?

0:15:19 > 0:15:23- Yes, we farm more animals - which produce more manure.

0:15:23 > 0:15:27- The fields of Wales - are improving all the time.

0:15:27 > 0:15:29- Yes. It's honest land.

0:15:29 > 0:15:32- If you don't give, - you won't receive.

0:15:33 > 0:15:35- That's very true.

0:15:35 > 0:15:37- If you don't give, - you won't receive.

0:15:42 > 0:15:46- Looking at our map, we can see - the location of Cae'r Hiw...

0:15:47 > 0:15:49- ..the old name - which Arwyn has adopted.

0:15:50 > 0:15:52- This field is on a slope...

0:15:53 > 0:15:56- ..so Cae'r Hiw may be a corrupted - form of Cae Rhiw - Hill Field.

0:15:58 > 0:16:02- Adjacent to it are Cae Pistyll, - Cae'r Banc and Cae'r Odyn.

0:16:02 > 0:16:06- Three names which have survived - since the days of the Tithe Maps.

0:16:07 > 0:16:10- At the foot of the valley, - below Pen Yr Allt Goch...

0:16:11 > 0:16:14- ..there's another field - with an interesting name.

0:16:15 > 0:16:21- Arwyn called it Dol Gyferbyn A - Phant Y Croen in the past...

0:16:21 > 0:16:26- ..but Arwyn has now gone back - to the old name - Cae Bola Hawl.

0:16:32 > 0:16:37- Having spoken to Arwyn, I realize - there are some unusual names here.

0:16:37 > 0:16:39- Cae Bola Hawl is a strange name.

0:16:42 > 0:16:44- Yes, and it's likely to be...

0:16:44 > 0:16:48- ..a case of the recorder - of the Tithe Maps mishearing it.

0:16:48 > 0:16:54- The correct spelling is likely to be - Cae Bola Haul - Sun Bathed Field.

0:16:54 > 0:16:57- The sun shines on this field - all day long.

0:16:59 > 0:17:04- In other circles, you may see names - like Bryn Golau - Light Hill...

0:17:04 > 0:17:07- ..in an area which is - exposed to the sunshine.

0:17:13 > 0:17:15- The name of the next field...

0:17:15 > 0:17:20- ..is linked to the fierce animal - I mentioned earlier.

0:17:20 > 0:17:24- Cledwyn Fychan has written a book - about this creature...

0:17:24 > 0:17:27- ..which vanished from Wales - 500 years ago.

0:17:29 > 0:17:32- Cledwyn, this field - is known as Cae Bribwll by Arwyn.

0:17:33 > 0:17:34- What does bribwll mean?

0:17:37 > 0:17:40- Bribwll is the oral form - of bleiddbwll - wolf pit.

0:17:41 > 0:17:44- If you look back - at the old documents...

0:17:44 > 0:17:48- ..you'll see the term bleiddbwll - is used every time.

0:17:49 > 0:17:53- The wolf pit was quite a deep pit - which was dug in the ground...

0:17:54 > 0:17:56- ..with the aim of catching wolves.

0:18:00 > 0:18:04- It was by no means easy to catch - a wolf, not even with a deep pit.

0:18:07 > 0:18:11- The mouth of the pit was concealed - with twigs and leaves...

0:18:12 > 0:18:17- ..in the hope that the wolf - would wander across it...

0:18:18 > 0:18:19- ..and fall into the pit.

0:18:20 > 0:18:25- Something you did have in those - days were tree-covered gorges.

0:18:26 > 0:18:30- But the higher ground such as this - was more open...

0:18:30 > 0:18:34- ..and hunters - would stay on areas like this...

0:18:34 > 0:18:37- ..watching the movements - of all their pray.

0:18:37 > 0:18:39- Animals such as deer and so on.

0:18:42 > 0:18:46- That's why they dug wolf pits - in places like this.

0:18:46 > 0:18:50- Were wolves such a problem for - humans that we had to kill them?

0:18:50 > 0:18:55- The indigenous Welsh people weren't - concerned about the wolf.

0:18:55 > 0:18:59- They were quite tolerant of them, - as we now are of foxes.

0:18:59 > 0:19:03- They did no more than - keep their numbers under control.

0:19:05 > 0:19:10- The Normans enjoyed hunting, - so they wanted to protect deer.

0:19:11 > 0:19:16- They were responsible for making - the wolf extinct within our shores.

0:19:17 > 0:19:22- The only time the wolf was really - dangerous was when it had rabies.

0:19:22 > 0:19:26- A wolf with rabies - lost its fear of humans completely.

0:19:27 > 0:19:32- In the year 1166, a wolf suffering - from rabies entered Carmarthen.

0:19:33 > 0:19:37- It bit 18 people, - most of whom later died.

0:19:39 > 0:19:43- Why is the wolf a creature - which captures the imagination?

0:19:46 > 0:19:48- It's a very noble creature.

0:19:48 > 0:19:49- In ancient times...

0:19:50 > 0:19:55- ..when the old Welsh people - described princes and heroes...

0:19:58 > 0:20:01- ..they'd compare them - to the fearless wolf.

0:20:03 > 0:20:05- Children were named after the wolf.

0:20:06 > 0:20:11- For example, the name Bleddyn means - a member of the wolf's family.

0:20:20 > 0:20:24- Arwyn's grandson - was raised near Cae'r Bribwll.

0:20:24 > 0:20:29- Daniel Williams is part of - a new generation of Welsh farmers.

0:20:30 > 0:20:34- He understands the value - of field names and heritage.

0:20:34 > 0:20:38- Are you familiar with the names - of the fields on the farm?

0:20:39 > 0:20:40- Yes. I know them all.

0:20:41 > 0:20:44- Does it mean more than - just a practical tool to you?

0:20:44 > 0:20:48- Yes. There's a story - behind many of the names.

0:20:49 > 0:20:53- It's interesting to know - why they were given their names.

0:20:54 > 0:20:56- Are these names valuable...

0:20:57 > 0:21:01- ..or should we let them go - and forget all about them?

0:21:02 > 0:21:04- No, we mustn't forget them.

0:21:04 > 0:21:09- If we don't use these names, - no-one will know the history.

0:21:10 > 0:21:15- Cae Lilley is my favourite because - I've heard so many stories about it.

0:21:15 > 0:21:16- What sort of worker is he?

0:21:16 > 0:21:19- What sort of worker is he?- - A hard worker, like his grandmother.

0:21:19 > 0:21:21- Does he know all the names?

0:21:22 > 0:21:24- Yes. He's a good boy.

0:21:44 > 0:21:46- We've almost seen the whole farm.

0:21:46 > 0:21:48- Yes. Most of it.

0:21:48 > 0:21:50- What fields do we have here?

0:21:50 > 0:21:53- Cae Bach Yr Arad and Fron Newydd.

0:21:53 > 0:21:55- Cae Bach Yr Arad and Fron Newydd.- - Is there a story behind the names?

0:21:56 > 0:21:59- Cae Bach Yr Arad - - small field of the plough...

0:22:00 > 0:22:03- ..isn't the correct name, - according to the Tithe Maps.

0:22:04 > 0:22:06- David Thorne said - it's the shape of a plough.

0:22:07 > 0:22:10- It's the same shape - as the ploughshare.

0:22:10 > 0:22:11- Yes - that's right.

0:22:13 > 0:22:16- The ploughshare - is the cutting blade.

0:22:16 > 0:22:21- I'll change the names of the other - fields back to their original names.

0:22:21 > 0:22:24- Cae Bola Haul, Cae Rhiw - and Cae'r Banc.

0:22:24 > 0:22:26- Cae Bola Haul is beautiful.

0:22:27 > 0:22:31- Do these fields mean more to you - than a way to make a living?

0:22:32 > 0:22:33- Yes, they certainly do.

0:22:34 > 0:22:36- They mean the world to me.

0:22:36 > 0:22:40- That may sound strange - but they're important to me.

0:22:49 > 0:22:53- Rhian, we've seen - many interesting things at Penlan.

0:22:53 > 0:22:55- Yes, it's truly fascinating.

0:22:56 > 0:22:59- There's a wealth of history - and stories here.

0:22:59 > 0:23:02- The family - is passionate about the names.

0:23:03 > 0:23:07- Arwyn went to see the Tithe Maps, - he researched the old names...

0:23:08 > 0:23:11- ..and he came home - and reinstated the old names.

0:23:11 > 0:23:16- It's great that someone has a keen - interest in the names of his fields.

0:23:16 > 0:23:19- The whole family - has embraced the names.

0:23:20 > 0:23:24- The important thing is - they've passed on the information...

0:23:24 > 0:23:27- ..to the next generation.

0:23:56 > 0:23:58- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

0:23:58 > 0:23:59- .