0:00:00 > 0:00:00- Subtitles
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:00:29 > 0:00:31- During this series...
0:00:31 > 0:00:36- ..we travel across Wales - looking at our landscape's history.
0:00:36 > 0:00:41- Field names reveal a hidden history - which is vital to Wales's story.
0:00:42 > 0:00:46- In this programme, we visit - a special mountain in Lleyn.
0:00:46 > 0:00:51- A mountain which gave shelter - and sustenance over the ages...
0:00:51 > 0:00:55- ..but which also witnessed - violence and riots.
0:00:55 > 0:01:00- Our journey begins at the - National Library with Rhian Parry.
0:01:01 > 0:01:04- In this programme, - we focus on a mountain.
0:01:04 > 0:01:09- It's easy to spot - its wide open spaces on this map.
0:01:09 > 0:01:13- Yes, we're looking - at Carnguwch mountain, Lleyn...
0:01:14 > 0:01:18- ..which is between Llithfaen - and Llanaelhaearn.
0:01:19 > 0:01:24- We'll visit several farms, - including Hafod, Carnguwch Fawr...
0:01:24 > 0:01:26- ..and Llech Engan.
0:01:27 > 0:01:32- The expanse of empty land in the - centre of the map is a mountaintop.
0:01:32 > 0:01:35- The wall lines are different. - They're straight.
0:01:36 > 0:01:39- That suggests - someone measured this land...
0:01:39 > 0:01:42- ..and erected walls - along specific lines.
0:01:43 > 0:01:46- Following the Enclosure Acts - of 1812...
0:01:46 > 0:01:50- ..the mountain was parcelled up, - to all intents and purposes...
0:01:51 > 0:01:53- ..and sold off to individuals.
0:01:53 > 0:01:57- Local people lost their - right of access to common land...
0:01:58 > 0:02:02- ..even though some relied on it - for their livelihood.
0:02:02 > 0:02:04- What's this big book?
0:02:05 > 0:02:08- These are the Tithe Maps schedules.
0:02:09 > 0:02:13- Here, we see the farmstead - known as Llech Engan.
0:02:17 > 0:02:22- Llech Engan's field names are listed - here and they're very interesting.
0:02:22 > 0:02:24- Cae'r Crych - Furrow Field.
0:02:24 > 0:02:26- Cae'r Pin - Pin Field.
0:02:27 > 0:02:28- Cae Dryll - Wreck Field.
0:02:30 > 0:02:31- Llainniau - Tracts.
0:02:31 > 0:02:34- There must be some tales to tell.
0:02:34 > 0:02:37- What about this book? - How does it help us?
0:02:38 > 0:02:42- It's a collection of maps - and lists of field names.
0:02:43 > 0:02:46- It's part of the 1790 - Boduan Estate collection.
0:02:48 > 0:02:52- It's possible to compare - the shapes of fields on the maps...
0:02:53 > 0:02:57- ..and field names on the schedules.
0:02:57 > 0:03:00- Are there any inconsistencies?
0:03:00 > 0:03:05- Yes, and you'd expect that during - those uncertain, troubled times.
0:03:05 > 0:03:08- Having said that, - some field names have survived.
0:03:14 > 0:03:18- Hafod farm is on the side of - Carnguwch mountain, near Llithfaen.
0:03:19 > 0:03:22- Dafydd Roberts farms the land today.
0:03:22 > 0:03:25- His father took over the farm - in the 1950s...
0:03:25 > 0:03:29- ..adding a farmstead - to the land 20 years later.
0:03:29 > 0:03:33- A smallholding with the magical name - of Llech Engan.
0:03:34 > 0:03:36- This place has four names.
0:03:36 > 0:03:40- Llech Eingan, - which became Llech Engan.
0:03:43 > 0:03:47- Sometime around the year 1830, - by all accounts...
0:03:48 > 0:03:53- ..it was known as Ymyl Capel - - Chapel Verge.
0:03:54 > 0:03:57- That became Mur Capel - Chapel Wall.
0:03:58 > 0:04:00- I don't know why it was changed...
0:04:01 > 0:04:04- ..but I've heard a theory - about Llech Engan.
0:04:04 > 0:04:06- There was a Saint Eingan...
0:04:07 > 0:04:10- ..and he established the church - in Llanengan.
0:04:10 > 0:04:15- I don't know if there was a link - between Saint Eingan and here.
0:04:15 > 0:04:20- People tend to assume that, because - Carnguwch Church is nearby...
0:04:20 > 0:04:24- ..the church must have - been founded by Saint Beuno.
0:04:24 > 0:04:28- However, there's no evidence - to support that theory...
0:04:28 > 0:04:30- ..so Eingan may well have been here.
0:04:31 > 0:04:34- Llech may be - a form of llechu - to shelter.
0:04:35 > 0:04:38- He may have sought shelter here - at some time.
0:04:39 > 0:04:40- It's an interesting theory.
0:04:40 > 0:04:42- It's an interesting theory.- - Yes. It's a good story.
0:04:53 > 0:04:56- Local historian, - John Dilwyn Williams...
0:04:56 > 0:04:59- ..has family ties with Llech Engan.
0:04:59 > 0:05:03- This was his grandmother's home - when she was young.
0:05:04 > 0:05:09- She moved here with her parents - when she was 14 years old.
0:05:09 > 0:05:13- Her grandparents lived here, - but they moved to Coed Y Garth.
0:05:14 > 0:05:18- My grandmother, her siblings - and her parents came here.
0:05:19 > 0:05:24- She said her first job was to help - her mother put calico on the roof.
0:05:25 > 0:05:27- I'm not sure what she meant.
0:05:27 > 0:05:30- It was probably a thatched cottage.
0:05:30 > 0:05:33- They may have - whitewashed the calico...
0:05:33 > 0:05:37- ..to stop insects crawling - through the straw, into the house.
0:05:37 > 0:05:42- Another relative of mine lived here - and they called her Hen Fobi.
0:05:42 > 0:05:45- I assume she was female, - but I'm not certain.
0:05:45 > 0:05:49- An Elizabeth lived here - in the 19th century...
0:05:49 > 0:05:52- ..but I don't know - why she'd be called Hen Fobi.
0:05:52 > 0:05:57- Anyway, Hen Fobi stood in the door - looking towards Carnguwch Church...
0:05:58 > 0:06:01- ..and she saw smoke and fire - in the cemetery.
0:06:02 > 0:06:05- She may have seen a corpse candle.
0:06:05 > 0:06:08- It certainly brings folklore alive.
0:06:13 > 0:06:17- Field names open doors on - local history and on Welsh history.
0:06:17 > 0:06:21- This time, Rhian focuses - on the Llech Engan fields.
0:06:24 > 0:06:27- Rhian, we're standing in Cae Dryll.
0:06:28 > 0:06:29- Dryll, as in bang-bang?
0:06:29 > 0:06:31- Dryll, as in bang-bang?- - No, not dryll as in gun.
0:06:31 > 0:06:35- Cae Dryll is usually a small field - which has been broken up.
0:06:35 > 0:06:37- Dryll as in drylliad - wreck.
0:06:38 > 0:06:40- Llongddrylliad - shipwreck.
0:06:41 > 0:06:42- What do you have here?
0:06:43 > 0:06:46- A list of the fields - you'll find in Llech Engan.
0:06:48 > 0:06:51- These are listed - in the Tithe Maps schedules.
0:06:51 > 0:06:55- Next to it is a list - of the same fields' names in 1790...
0:06:55 > 0:06:58- ..taken from Boduan estate papers.
0:06:58 > 0:07:01- Some of these names have changed.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03- Some of these names have changed.- - Yes, and it's fascinating.
0:07:03 > 0:07:06- Some of the field names - have remained the same.
0:07:07 > 0:07:09- Cae Pin is one such example.
0:07:09 > 0:07:14- Cae Pin is a field where you'll find - a spring or some source of water...
0:07:16 > 0:07:20- ..with a pipe running from it - to an animal's feeding trough.
0:07:23 > 0:07:28- Tradition has it that people came up - to Cae Pin from the village...
0:07:28 > 0:07:30- ..to fetch water.
0:07:32 > 0:07:33- That's interesting.
0:07:33 > 0:07:38- I also notice that Cae Tas Fawn - has changed from Cae Pen Yr Odyn.
0:07:38 > 0:07:40- Both names are linked.
0:07:40 > 0:07:43- You could burn mawn - peat - in an odyn - oast.
0:07:43 > 0:07:47- The old oast - was still here but it was unused.
0:07:47 > 0:07:51- The tas fawn - peat stack - became more popular.
0:07:52 > 0:07:56- Hafod now includes - additional pieces of land...
0:07:56 > 0:07:59- ..at the foot of Carnguwch mountain.
0:07:59 > 0:08:03- On the original farm, several fields - were called llain...
0:08:03 > 0:08:07- ..which is the term - for a long, thin strip of land.
0:08:08 > 0:08:12- Llain harks back to - a community farming tradition...
0:08:12 > 0:08:16- ..of farming many strips of land - within a large, open area.
0:08:17 > 0:08:20- At Hafod, where there's - a lack of good land...
0:08:20 > 0:08:23- ..you see scattered patches of land.
0:08:24 > 0:08:27- As you travel - around the foot of the mountain...
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- ..you find the old farmstead - of Llech Engan.
0:08:31 > 0:08:34- There are long strips - of agricultural land here...
0:08:35 > 0:08:40- ..and plenty of striking names like - Cae Dryll, Cae Tas Fawn and Cae Pin.
0:08:40 > 0:08:43- Close to Llech Engan - is Carnguwch Fawr farm...
0:08:43 > 0:08:46- ..which belongs to Paul Worsley.
0:08:49 > 0:08:53- Paul, how did your family - come to Carnguwch Fawr?
0:08:53 > 0:08:59- Well, 100 years ago, my mother - would come here to fetch butter.
0:08:59 > 0:09:02- She was around nine years old - at the time.
0:09:05 > 0:09:09- John Price was the farmhand here - back then.
0:09:09 > 0:09:15- My mother, my father and their five - children moved here as tenants...
0:09:15 > 0:09:17- ..around 30 years later.
0:09:22 > 0:09:28- In the meantime, John Price had gone - to live on the road, as a vagabond.
0:09:29 > 0:09:32- He'd come back here - around twice every year.
0:09:37 > 0:09:41- He'd come here at night - when he was soaked to the skin.
0:09:42 > 0:09:46- What he did was to go into - the cowshed to join the cattle...
0:09:46 > 0:09:52- ..remove his clothes and place them - on the backs of the cattle to dry.
0:09:53 > 0:09:56- He'd go and lie in the hay - in his underwear.
0:09:56 > 0:10:00- His clothes would be dry - by the morning.
0:10:00 > 0:10:03- Everyone knew who John Price was.
0:10:03 > 0:10:06- He was more famous than The Beatles!
0:10:25 > 0:10:29- Rhian, this isn't a field! - Why did you bring me here?
0:10:29 > 0:10:31- Because it's an interesting spot.
0:10:32 > 0:10:34- There's a special atmosphere here.
0:10:34 > 0:10:39- These stones are in fact - the remains of five roundhouses.
0:10:40 > 0:10:45- It shows us that there was a village - settlement here at some point.
0:10:45 > 0:10:48- It probably dates back - around 2000 years ago.
0:10:48 > 0:10:53- We can't be accurate because - no excavation has taken place here.
0:10:53 > 0:10:57- The community worked together - to build walls...
0:10:57 > 0:11:01- ..and to cut wood - and collect reeds for the thatch.
0:11:01 > 0:11:06- It involved a lot of work and they - were here for a long period of time.
0:11:07 > 0:11:11- They farmed relatively good land, - in the shadow of the mountain.
0:11:12 > 0:11:16- People have lived here and farmed - this land for thousands of years.
0:11:17 > 0:11:18- Yes. Definitely.
0:11:24 > 0:11:29- Dafydd has some grazing land next to - Hafod, on Gwag Y Noe farmstead.
0:11:31 > 0:11:32- What is that, Rhian?
0:11:34 > 0:11:35- A noe - a wooden bowl.
0:11:35 > 0:11:37- A noe - a wooden bowl.- - Why are you holding it?
0:11:37 > 0:11:41- I rarely sit on walls - clutching wooden bowls!
0:11:41 > 0:11:46- I borrowed it because the farmstead - behind us is called Gwag Y Noe.
0:11:49 > 0:11:51- Empty Bowl? It's a sad name.
0:11:51 > 0:11:53- Empty Bowl? It's a sad name.- - Yes, it is sad.
0:11:53 > 0:11:58- An empty bowl meant there was no - butter, which suggests some poverty.
0:11:58 > 0:12:00- How did they use the bowl?
0:12:00 > 0:12:02- How did they use the bowl?- - First, they'd scald it.
0:12:02 > 0:12:04- It had to be totally clean.
0:12:05 > 0:12:08- They put churned butter - in the bowl...
0:12:08 > 0:12:13- ..and worked it until the liquid - which came out of it was clear.
0:12:14 > 0:12:16- They'd then cut it - into pound blocks.
0:12:17 > 0:12:19- It was a great tradition.
0:12:19 > 0:12:21- It was a great tradition.- - Yes, dating back to the Middle Ages.
0:12:22 > 0:12:26- We know that because they paid - a form of rent to the prince...
0:12:27 > 0:12:31- ..and their currency - could be honey, flour or butter.
0:12:33 > 0:12:37- It wasn't enough to offer - a level bowl of butter.
0:12:37 > 0:12:42- They had to pay in mounds of butter, - equating to two bowlfuls.
0:12:47 > 0:12:52- Gwag Y Noe is one of the prettiest - names I've heard during this series.
0:12:52 > 0:12:55- It's certainly the saddest name too.
0:12:55 > 0:12:59- Butter is one of the basics of life, - just like milk and sugar.
0:13:00 > 0:13:05- In this case, times were so tough, - the wooden butter bowl was empty.
0:13:13 > 0:13:13- .
0:13:19 > 0:13:19- Subtitles
0:13:19 > 0:13:21- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:13:31 > 0:13:36- This time, on Caeau Cymru, we're in - the Carnguwch area of Lleyn.
0:13:36 > 0:13:40- This area is steeped in history - and folklore.
0:13:41 > 0:13:46- Field names ensure that old farming - methods will never be forgotten.
0:13:48 > 0:13:53- Here we are, standing in the gate - leading to Erw Ddu - Black Acre.
0:13:54 > 0:13:57- The strange thing - is it's around 20 acres!
0:13:57 > 0:14:00- Yes. The field - doesn't quite suit its name.
0:14:00 > 0:14:04- What happened was the - field's boundaries were moved.
0:14:05 > 0:14:10- It happens a lot these days, - as farmers use larger machinery...
0:14:10 > 0:14:12- ..and they need wider gates.
0:14:14 > 0:14:19- When you remove a field's boundary, - you often lose its name too.
0:14:19 > 0:14:23- This is a green field, so why was it - known as The Black Field?
0:14:23 > 0:14:25- Does it have a dark history?
0:14:26 > 0:14:28- I don't think so.
0:14:28 > 0:14:31- I think the fact - that this acre is here...
0:14:31 > 0:14:35- ..signifies it was an acre - belonging to a free family.
0:14:35 > 0:14:39- We know that a free family - lived here in the Middle Ages.
0:14:39 > 0:14:44- Everyone worked as a team - to plough, sow and harvest.
0:14:46 > 0:14:51- It was traditional to send cattle - up the mountain in the spring...
0:14:51 > 0:14:55- ..before starting the process - of cultivating the land.
0:14:55 > 0:15:01- They brought the cattle down after - the harvest to fertilize the land.
0:15:01 > 0:15:05- Did that process - darken the land of Erw Ddu?
0:15:06 > 0:15:08- That may be this field's background.
0:15:09 > 0:15:13- Erw Wen - White Acre is a familiar - name but not Erw Ddu - Black Acre.
0:15:18 > 0:15:21- Today, the valley - is both fertile and tranquil...
0:15:22 > 0:15:27- ..but the walls and hedges have - witnessed some very troubled times.
0:15:29 > 0:15:35- The Enclosure Acts of 1812 took away - the rights of ordinary people...
0:15:36 > 0:15:37- ..to use common land.
0:15:39 > 0:15:43- According to head teacher - and historian, Sianelen Pleming...
0:15:44 > 0:15:49- ..the people of Llithfaen - reacted ferociously to the Act.
0:15:49 > 0:15:51- Who led the rebellion here?
0:15:51 > 0:15:53- Who led the rebellion here?- - Robert William Hughes.
0:15:53 > 0:15:55- He lived in Llithfaen.
0:15:55 > 0:15:59- According to the newspapers, - he was "the captain of the mob".
0:16:00 > 0:16:04- He used a large seashell like this - to call the people together.
0:16:04 > 0:16:08- When the local people - heard the call of the seashell...
0:16:09 > 0:16:12- ..they knew - the surveyors were on their way.
0:16:12 > 0:16:17- They then either hid on the mountain - or challenged the surveyors.
0:16:18 > 0:16:22- There's some evidence to suggest - that in October 1812...
0:16:22 > 0:16:26- ..there was a serious riot here.
0:16:27 > 0:16:32- Robert William Hughes, David Rowland - and several women were arrested.
0:16:33 > 0:16:35- What happened to them?
0:16:35 > 0:16:40- Robert William Hughes - appeared in court in Caernarfon.
0:16:41 > 0:16:45- Justice Kenrick - sentenced him to death.
0:16:46 > 0:16:51- "In a very impressive manner", - according to the newspaper report.
0:16:51 > 0:16:56- But he was pardoned and his sentence - was reduced to transportation.
0:16:56 > 0:16:59- He was sent to Botany Bay - for the rest of his life.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03- When he reached Australia, - the doctor noted...
0:17:03 > 0:17:07- .."Robert William Hughes, - very old and feeble."
0:17:08 > 0:17:10- He died in 1830, aged 70.
0:17:13 > 0:17:15- That was the end of his story.
0:17:24 > 0:17:29- We complain about poverty - during the current recession...
0:17:29 > 0:17:34- ..but we can't even begin to imagine - real poverty, as experienced here...
0:17:34 > 0:17:37- ..almost exactly 200 years ago.
0:17:37 > 0:17:40- It was terrible poverty - which led to riots...
0:17:42 > 0:17:45- ..and to people - being shipped to Australia...
0:17:46 > 0:17:47- ..to die in Botany Bay.
0:17:48 > 0:17:50- It really is unimaginable.
0:18:00 > 0:18:05- Life was tough for the people after - the Enclosure Acts were passed.
0:18:06 > 0:18:10- Near Cae Garw, - there are the remains of houses...
0:18:10 > 0:18:13- ..which gave paupers shelter - for years.
0:18:18 > 0:18:21- We're standing - in front of the old Barics.
0:18:23 > 0:18:27- It appeared on the 1841 census - and it was a temporary building.
0:18:29 > 0:18:33- The purpose of the Barics - was to put a roof over the head...
0:18:34 > 0:18:36- ..of local homeless paupers.
0:18:38 > 0:18:41- The parish had a responsibility - to house them.
0:18:42 > 0:18:46- The Barics is recorded here - as a cluster of four houses.
0:18:47 > 0:18:50- It's amazing - that four families lived here.
0:18:51 > 0:18:56- Ann Thomas, a 30-year-old woman, - lived in the first house in 1841.
0:18:56 > 0:18:58- She was described as a pauper.
0:19:00 > 0:19:03- She had four very young daughters.
0:19:05 > 0:19:10- Was this hardship a direct result - of right of access to common land...
0:19:10 > 0:19:14- ..being denied to them - via the Enclosure Acts?
0:19:14 > 0:19:18- Yes, and we're in a field - called Fuel Ground.
0:19:18 > 0:19:22- The purpose of this - was to allow the local paupers...
0:19:22 > 0:19:27- ..to have a small corner of land - to collect heather and gorse.
0:19:30 > 0:19:35- Before the Acts Of Enclosure, they - grazed animals on the mountain...
0:19:35 > 0:19:38- ..and they collected firewood - there too.
0:19:39 > 0:19:44- The land was enclosed by individuals - who wanted to grab land...
0:19:44 > 0:19:49- ..with the purpose of making money - and generating profits.
0:19:52 > 0:19:55- These were the stocks and shares - of their time.
0:19:55 > 0:19:58- It was to the detriment - of local people.
0:20:09 > 0:20:13- I wonder how we'd react - to the Enclosure Acts today.
0:20:13 > 0:20:18- How would we feel if your right - to work the land was taken away...
0:20:18 > 0:20:19- ..by some wealthy man?
0:20:20 > 0:20:23- Would we come and live - in a place like the Barics?
0:20:23 > 0:20:25- No.
0:20:25 > 0:20:28- Personally, - I'd be on my way to Botany Bay.
0:20:33 > 0:20:37- Dafydd has some vivid memories - of the Barics.
0:20:39 > 0:20:41- You remember the Barics being used.
0:20:41 > 0:20:43- You remember the Barics being used.- - Yes.
0:20:43 > 0:20:47- When my sister and I were - seven, eight or nine years old...
0:20:47 > 0:20:52- ..RJ, a man who lived in the village - rode his bike up here every day...
0:20:52 > 0:20:55- ..to tend the hens he kept here.
0:20:55 > 0:20:57- We'd join him for a chat.
0:20:57 > 0:20:59- He was a fascinating man.
0:21:00 > 0:21:04- He was a musician and he'd - write music on a piece of slate.
0:21:04 > 0:21:08- He composed a few songs for us - and we'd go off and learn them...
0:21:09 > 0:21:11- ..before returning - to sing them for him.
0:21:12 > 0:21:14- It was a happy time.
0:21:15 > 0:21:17- He was a unique character.
0:21:19 > 0:21:22- I remember him here, - playing his violin...
0:21:22 > 0:21:26- ..with the hens milling around him.
0:21:26 > 0:21:28- It was an incredible sight.
0:21:28 > 0:21:32- I picture him playing the violin - with a hen on his shoulder!
0:21:32 > 0:21:35- Yes, he'd often - have a hen on his shoulder.
0:21:35 > 0:21:40- The Barics were historically - maintained by the parish.
0:21:42 > 0:21:46- There's still a similar arrangement - in place, isn't there?
0:21:48 > 0:21:52- Yes, there are around 12 to 15 acres - of moorland around the Barics...
0:21:53 > 0:21:56- ..and it's still owned - by the Pistyll charity.
0:21:57 > 0:21:59- We pay rent on it...
0:22:01 > 0:22:05- ..and that money, plus rent - raised elsewhere in the area...
0:22:06 > 0:22:08- ..is donated to community projects.
0:22:09 > 0:22:12- There's still - some sort of continuity here.
0:22:12 > 0:22:13- That's good to hear.
0:22:26 > 0:22:29- There are layers of history here.
0:22:29 > 0:22:32- Yes, and we focused - on the Carnguwch area.
0:22:34 > 0:22:36- Carnguwch is an old name.
0:22:36 > 0:22:41- Yes, and it's wonderful that it - survived all those troubled times.
0:22:41 > 0:22:43- To the best of my knowledge...
0:22:43 > 0:22:47- ..the name - was originally registered in 1292...
0:22:47 > 0:22:49- ..as a civil parish in Lleyn.
0:22:49 > 0:22:51- It's fascinating.
0:22:51 > 0:22:55- The records tell us - that five families lived here...
0:22:56 > 0:22:59- ..around the foot - of the Carnguwch mountain.
0:23:01 > 0:23:05- They reared cattle and horses here.
0:23:07 > 0:23:10- They also ground wheat - to make flour.
0:23:10 > 0:23:15- They paid a tax of 17% - on their assets.
0:23:17 > 0:23:23- It all points to the suggestion that - this was a flourishing community.
0:23:24 > 0:23:26- We had a satisfying visit - to Llithfaen.
0:23:27 > 0:23:29- Yes. It's been fascinating.
0:23:29 > 0:23:31- Farming is still going strong here.
0:23:31 > 0:23:32- Farming is still going strong here.- - That's good to know.
0:23:40 > 0:23:45- Carnguwch has offered shelter - and sustenance for centuries.
0:23:46 > 0:23:49- Enclosure Acts riots - also happened here.
0:23:49 > 0:23:53- When walls were built - and fields were created...
0:23:53 > 0:23:57- ..it strengthened the divide - between rich and poor...
0:23:57 > 0:23:58- ..in rural Wales.
0:24:27 > 0:24:29- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:24:29 > 0:24:29- .