Tremarchog Sir Benfro

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0:00:23 > 0:00:27- I'm in a part of the country - where the land meets the sea.

0:00:28 > 0:00:32- Where the Welsh word for gate - is iet, yesterday is dwe...

0:00:32 > 0:00:34- ..and a field is parc.

0:00:35 > 0:00:38- Welcome to Caeau Cymru, - or Perci Cymru!

0:00:44 > 0:00:46- I'm in St Nicholas, Pembrokeshire.

0:00:46 > 0:00:50- This area - is steeped in agricultural history.

0:00:51 > 0:00:55- Rhian Parry again - accompanies me on my journey...

0:00:55 > 0:00:58- ..to unlock - the history of the landscape.

0:00:58 > 0:01:03- First, we study the Tithe Map, which - is stored in The National Library.

0:01:04 > 0:01:08- Rhian, we won't see many fields - in this programme...

0:01:08 > 0:01:10- ..but we'll see lots of perci!

0:01:10 > 0:01:14- Perci is an unfamiliar term for me - but I know it means fields!

0:01:14 > 0:01:19- We'll visit Llys Yr Onnen, - known today as Ynys Deullyn...

0:01:19 > 0:01:20- ..in Pembrokeshire.

0:01:21 > 0:01:24- What about the names of the fields?

0:01:25 > 0:01:28- There are plenty of them, - including Parc Castell...

0:01:30 > 0:01:32- ..and Parc Dendy Isaf.

0:01:34 > 0:01:36- Some more unfamiliar words.

0:01:36 > 0:01:37- Are there new influences here?

0:01:37 > 0:01:39- Are there new influences here?- - Yes, I think so.

0:01:39 > 0:01:44- We can see an Irish Gaelic influence - plus an industrial influence.

0:01:45 > 0:01:48- There are stones and - ancient monuments in this area...

0:01:49 > 0:01:50- ..and on the farm.

0:02:01 > 0:02:05- We focus on the land of - Llys Yr Onnen, the original farm.

0:02:05 > 0:02:08- Dafydd Williams was raised here.

0:02:08 > 0:02:11- The farm has been in his family - for generations.

0:02:13 > 0:02:18- Dafydd built a house here and named - it Ynys Deullyn - Two Lake Island...

0:02:19 > 0:02:21- ..a name inspired - by the view out to sea.

0:02:24 > 0:02:28- It's incredible to see a - Tithe Map schedule in the open air.

0:02:29 > 0:02:30- Here it is, on your lap.

0:02:30 > 0:02:32- How did you come across it?

0:02:32 > 0:02:34- How did you come across it?- - It was among my father's papers.

0:02:34 > 0:02:39- He inherited it from his father - or from his great-uncle...

0:02:39 > 0:02:42- ..who lived at Llys Yr Onnen, - his birthplace.

0:02:43 > 0:02:47- It must have been left in the house - after his days.

0:02:47 > 0:02:50- Have you read this book extensively?

0:02:50 > 0:02:52- Yes. It's fascinating.

0:02:52 > 0:02:56- It includes the names of the fields - in several farms.

0:02:56 > 0:02:59- It also details - the sizes of the fields...

0:03:00 > 0:03:02- ..and it names - landowners and tenants.

0:03:03 > 0:03:05- Which names catch your eye?

0:03:05 > 0:03:09- Cnwc Y Llygod Bach is interesting.

0:03:10 > 0:03:14- Parc Pistyll, - where we're sitting at the moment...

0:03:14 > 0:03:17- ..and Cnwc Y Fran, - across the village.

0:03:17 > 0:03:22- Can you put your finger on why - you're interested in field names?

0:03:22 > 0:03:24- These names are old.

0:03:24 > 0:03:28- Whoever named the fields - had good reason for doing so.

0:03:28 > 0:03:31- The names refer to - the quality of the land...

0:03:32 > 0:03:34- ..and whether or not it's wet.

0:03:34 > 0:03:39- We must keep those reasons in mind - when we use the land today.

0:03:42 > 0:03:44- It can be important.

0:03:44 > 0:03:48- I think it's a vital part - of our Welshness.

0:03:48 > 0:03:49- I agree.

0:03:51 > 0:03:55- A piece of land is so important - to us, we give it a name.

0:03:55 > 0:03:59- The land was important to families - and to every community.

0:04:00 > 0:04:04- They relied upon - what they could get out of the land.

0:04:05 > 0:04:10- They also considered what the land - could do for the next generation.

0:04:10 > 0:04:12- It wasn't a short-term plan.

0:04:12 > 0:04:15- They had to take care of the land.

0:04:21 > 0:04:23- The root of the word perci - is a mystery.

0:04:24 > 0:04:27- It's a familiar term - on the west coast...

0:04:28 > 0:04:31- ..from Pembrokeshire to Ceredigion.

0:04:31 > 0:04:35- The word 'parc' means - poor-quality land in Flintshire.

0:04:36 > 0:04:39- Sadly, the term parc - is in decline today...

0:04:39 > 0:04:42- ..even among the older generation.

0:04:43 > 0:04:47- There's an interesting stone - in the first field we'll visit.

0:04:48 > 0:04:50- It's a field with a colourful name.

0:04:53 > 0:04:56- Dafydd, we're north of the house.

0:04:56 > 0:04:57- What's the name of this field?

0:04:57 > 0:04:59- What's the name of this field?- - This is Parc Carreg Carian.

0:05:00 > 0:05:02- It was a field in its own right...

0:05:04 > 0:05:06- ..but it's now - part of a larger field.

0:05:07 > 0:05:10- The hedge which separated it - from Parc Castell...

0:05:11 > 0:05:12- ..has now disappeared.

0:05:13 > 0:05:15- It has become one field...

0:05:15 > 0:05:19- ..the whole of which - is now known as Parc Carreg Carian.

0:05:21 > 0:05:23- A neighbour of mine...

0:05:23 > 0:05:26- ..who was interested - in ley lines...

0:05:27 > 0:05:29- ..came up here to take a look.

0:05:30 > 0:05:35- He found some energy lines here, - one of which points south-east...

0:05:36 > 0:05:38- ..towards that hedge.

0:05:38 > 0:05:42- He'd been in contact - with the National Library...

0:05:42 > 0:05:47- ..and discovered where there's a - standing stone in the south-east...

0:05:47 > 0:05:51- ..there's often - a square stone nearby.

0:05:51 > 0:05:53- We searched the land...

0:05:53 > 0:05:58- ..and found a square stone - south-east of the standing stone.

0:05:58 > 0:06:00- It's in the hedge.

0:06:00 > 0:06:02- Experts are of the opinion...

0:06:02 > 0:06:05- ..if you look - across the pair of stones...

0:06:06 > 0:06:09- ..on the shortest day of the year...

0:06:10 > 0:06:15- ..you'll see on the horizon - the place where the sun rises.

0:06:16 > 0:06:20- Apparently, many of the large stones - you see near farm gates...

0:06:21 > 0:06:23- ..and on roadsides...

0:06:24 > 0:06:27- ..stand on lay lines.

0:06:29 > 0:06:33- All farmers look at stones in - the middle of fields as a real pain!

0:06:34 > 0:06:37- Yes, but every animal - likes to scratch their itches.

0:06:39 > 0:06:44- If you don't have a standing stone, - they'll scratch against the fence.

0:06:53 > 0:06:57- We have no evidence - about this stone's history...

0:06:57 > 0:07:02- ..but archaeologist, Edward Davies, - shared his theories with me.

0:07:03 > 0:07:07- Ed, why did people go to the trouble - of putting a stone in a field?

0:07:09 > 0:07:12- It may have been placed here - to mark a boundary...

0:07:13 > 0:07:16- ..between different parts - of the area.

0:07:17 > 0:07:21- People who lived to the north may - not get on with those in the south.

0:07:21 > 0:07:25- This stone may have marked - the boundary between them.

0:07:27 > 0:07:29- They may be linked to astronomy.

0:07:31 > 0:07:34- Some stones do mark burial places.

0:07:35 > 0:07:38- Some of the stones were erected - in the Bronze Age...

0:07:39 > 0:07:41- ..and some in the Iron Age.

0:07:41 > 0:07:43- Could it mark a burial place?

0:07:43 > 0:07:45- Could it mark a burial place?- - It's possible.

0:07:45 > 0:07:51- There are examples where standing - stones mark burial chambers.

0:07:51 > 0:07:54- There's an example - at nearby Rhos Y Clegyrn...

0:07:54 > 0:07:57- ..and on sites across Pembrokeshire.

0:07:57 > 0:08:02- Farmers did erect standing stones - purely as rubbing posts.

0:08:02 > 0:08:07- It's hard to tell unless you - carry out the archaeological work.

0:08:09 > 0:08:13- It's believed that ley lines - connect two geographical points...

0:08:13 > 0:08:17- ..and that they have magnetic power.

0:08:17 > 0:08:21- According to BG Charles in - The Place Names of Pembrokeshire...

0:08:22 > 0:08:24- ..'carnan' means 'little rock'.

0:08:25 > 0:08:26- This is the second stone.

0:08:27 > 0:08:32- The lay lines man suggested there - would be a pair of stones here.

0:08:32 > 0:08:34- This one was in the hedge.

0:08:34 > 0:08:36- Did you have trouble finding it?

0:08:38 > 0:08:42- We followed the lay line - up the field from Carreg Carian...

0:08:42 > 0:08:45- ..to the other side of the hedge.

0:08:45 > 0:08:50- We couldn't see anything, so we came - around to this side and found this.

0:08:51 > 0:08:52- It's a large stone.

0:08:52 > 0:08:56- It's remarkable that someone - made such a mammoth effort...

0:08:57 > 0:09:01- ..of moving this white stone here - and placing it there.

0:09:01 > 0:09:05- Is what you said about - the shortest day of the year true?

0:09:05 > 0:09:09- Yes, and I erected a pole - in the hedge one year...

0:09:09 > 0:09:13- ..so I could see - from the standing stone.

0:09:13 > 0:09:15- It was a clear morning...

0:09:15 > 0:09:18- ..and on the horizon, - looking south-east...

0:09:19 > 0:09:21- ..the sun rose exactly on that line.

0:09:24 > 0:09:28- Our forefathers - discovered all this themselves...

0:09:29 > 0:09:33- ..and they went to the trouble - of moving two stones here.

0:09:34 > 0:09:37- Yes, and they placed - them right here.

0:09:37 > 0:09:42- I doubt we could do that today, - without the aid of any machines.

0:09:47 > 0:09:51- Turning to our map, we can get - a clearer picture of the geography.

0:09:54 > 0:09:58- Parc Castell and Parc Carreg Carian - are now one field...

0:09:58 > 0:10:01- ..but the boundary was once here.

0:10:01 > 0:10:04- There are no visible - castle remains here...

0:10:04 > 0:10:07- ..but a 20th century study...

0:10:07 > 0:10:10- ..noted there was a hill fort - in Parc Castell.

0:10:10 > 0:10:13- The white stone lies in the hedge...

0:10:13 > 0:10:18- ..which forms the boundary between - Parc Carreg Carian and Parc Y Rofft.

0:10:18 > 0:10:20- Rofft means cultivated land.

0:10:21 > 0:10:24- Next, we head to nearby Waun Cobler.

0:10:29 > 0:10:30- What does waun mean?

0:10:30 > 0:10:34- Waun is a poor, often wet - area of land.

0:10:36 > 0:10:39- It's poor land, - from a farmer's perspective.

0:10:39 > 0:10:42- In a historical context - such as this...

0:10:42 > 0:10:45- ..it's important and significant.

0:10:46 > 0:10:51- It was part of the pattern - of the Welsh family farming method.

0:10:51 > 0:10:54- This method was used - in north Pembrokeshire...

0:10:55 > 0:10:59- ..where families had open strips - of land divided by lines...

0:11:00 > 0:11:04- ..and then shared between the sons - and other relatives.

0:11:04 > 0:11:08- Occasionally, they had to turn to - poor land such as moorland...

0:11:09 > 0:11:11- ..and try to cultivate it.

0:11:11 > 0:11:14- They'd scrape away the top layer, - burn it...

0:11:14 > 0:11:17- ..and scatter the ashes on the soil.

0:11:18 > 0:11:22- Dafydd has tried to improve his land - by planting trees.

0:11:22 > 0:11:24- Yes. It's excellent work.

0:11:25 > 0:11:28- He's created a habitat - and shelter for wildlife.

0:11:29 > 0:11:31- It's wonderful use of moorland.

0:11:32 > 0:11:33- But we don't know what cobler means?

0:11:33 > 0:11:35- But we don't know what cobler means?- - I'm afraid not.

0:11:53 > 0:11:57- My heart tells me that Carreg Carian - is more than a rubbing post.

0:11:58 > 0:12:03- I want to believe it was placed here - to help us understand the stars...

0:12:03 > 0:12:06- ..or that it marks - Carian's burial place.

0:12:06 > 0:12:11- I'd love to believe a cobbler worked - on Waun Cobler, sewing old leather.

0:12:11 > 0:12:14- These fields make me romanticize!

0:12:19 > 0:12:19- .

0:12:23 > 0:12:23- Subtitles

0:12:23 > 0:12:25- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:12:28 > 0:12:33- We've looked at words as we trace - the history of our landscape...

0:12:33 > 0:12:35- ..but what about oral tradition?

0:12:35 > 0:12:40- Local dialect has also shaped - the names given to our fields.

0:12:43 > 0:12:45- Next, I head to Tresinwen...

0:12:46 > 0:12:50- ..to meet Hedydd Hughes, who works - for Menter Iaith Sir Benfro...

0:12:50 > 0:12:52- ..researching local dialect.

0:12:57 > 0:13:01- Hedydd, is it important to record - the names of the fields of Wales?

0:13:02 > 0:13:03- Yes, I think so.

0:13:03 > 0:13:06- They offer an insight - into local history.

0:13:06 > 0:13:09- We'd be poorer without them.

0:13:09 > 0:13:12- Do you simply record the names - on paper?

0:13:12 > 0:13:16- Yes, but it's even better - to also record voices...

0:13:16 > 0:13:18- ..to preserve pronunciations.

0:13:19 > 0:13:22- Does pronunciation vary widely?

0:13:22 > 0:13:23- Does pronunciation vary widely?- - Yes.

0:13:24 > 0:13:27- I've seen evidence of that - in my current project.

0:13:27 > 0:13:32- Take a phrase like - roedd hi'n oer yn y coed ddoe.

0:13:32 > 0:13:36- Near Llandoch, people say, - "Ro'dd hi'n or yn y cwed dwe."

0:13:36 > 0:13:40- In Fishguard, they say, - "Wedd hi'n wer yn y cwed dwe."

0:13:40 > 0:13:44- In St David's, it becomes, - "Wedd i'n oer yn y coed dwe."

0:13:45 > 0:13:46- I say dwe too.

0:13:46 > 0:13:51- Let's go back to the fields - and to words associated with them.

0:13:51 > 0:13:52- I say iet for gate.

0:13:52 > 0:13:54- I say iet for gate.- - Yes, we say iet too.

0:13:56 > 0:13:59- The gap between the hedges - is called the claish.

0:14:00 > 0:14:02- The local word for stile is stigle.

0:14:02 > 0:14:06- Y feidir means a narrow lane.

0:14:06 > 0:14:10- Mwni, in the St David's area, - means an open area of moorland.

0:14:11 > 0:14:13- It doesn't have to be on an incline.

0:14:13 > 0:14:16- It can mean an open piece of land.

0:14:16 > 0:14:20- Mwni doesn't mean mynydd - mountain, - in the St David's area.

0:14:21 > 0:14:27- How do the farmers react when you - go around collecting field names?

0:14:27 > 0:14:28- Are they interested in them?

0:14:28 > 0:14:30- Are they interested in them?- - Yes, most certainly.

0:14:30 > 0:14:33- They realize - we're only here temporarily...

0:14:34 > 0:14:38- ..and we can learn a great deal - from old methods and old names.

0:14:38 > 0:14:40- They're enchanting.

0:14:40 > 0:14:42- Those words are real treasures.

0:14:43 > 0:14:47- Gate

0:14:47 > 0:14:51- Gatepost

0:14:52 > 0:14:55- Stile

0:14:56 > 0:14:59- Narrow lane

0:15:33 > 0:15:36- I'm here to meet - Dyfed Elis Gruffydd...

0:15:36 > 0:15:40- ..one of the founders - of The National Wool Museum.

0:15:40 > 0:15:44- The name of this field - was influenced by an industry.

0:15:47 > 0:15:49- Dafydd refers to this as Dindir.

0:15:49 > 0:15:53- The word dindir is something - you often hear in this area.

0:15:53 > 0:15:55- What does it mean?

0:15:56 > 0:16:01- There are several similar words - in use - dindir, deintir and dentir.

0:16:01 > 0:16:05- In simple terms, - a dindir was a wooden frame...

0:16:05 > 0:16:10- ..which measured - somewhere around 50 feet in length.

0:16:10 > 0:16:14- This wooden frame was erected - in the open air, on legs...

0:16:15 > 0:16:17- ..and used to dry - the wool cloth...

0:16:18 > 0:16:22- ..which were usually - woven in the home.

0:16:25 > 0:16:27- There were hooks on the frame.

0:16:27 > 0:16:31- These were positioned - along the top of the frame...

0:16:31 > 0:16:35- ..along the bottom of the frame - and along the vertical posts.

0:16:36 > 0:16:39- The cloth was then - hooked onto the frame...

0:16:40 > 0:16:44- ..to make sure it - dried thoroughly and evenly...

0:16:45 > 0:16:48- ..without shrinking in the wind.

0:16:48 > 0:16:51- Why is this field - named after the drying frame?

0:16:52 > 0:16:56- There's no obvious reason, other - than it's probably a windy spot.

0:16:59 > 0:17:02- One would also assume - there was a fulling mill nearby.

0:17:03 > 0:17:05- The cloth had to be fulled.

0:17:05 > 0:17:09- Fulling involved a process - where cloth was washed and shrunk.

0:17:09 > 0:17:13- The cloth would have been woven - on small looms...

0:17:13 > 0:17:17- ..which were usually kept in homes - in the local area.

0:17:17 > 0:17:22- Looms were also used on some of - the large farms in this area.

0:17:24 > 0:17:28- It was traditional, of course, - from Medieval times...

0:17:28 > 0:17:33- ..until the small, rural woollen - factories were established.

0:17:33 > 0:17:38- Woollen mills like Tregwynt, - which is a stone's throw from here.

0:17:38 > 0:17:42- It's astonishing what - you can discover from a field name.

0:17:44 > 0:17:46- Yes, that's true.

0:17:46 > 0:17:51- Research has been carried out - across Wales to record these names.

0:17:51 > 0:17:56- There are references - to Dol Y Deintir - Deintir Field.

0:17:56 > 0:17:59- There are also some variations.

0:17:59 > 0:18:03- In Drefach Felindre, - which isn't far from here...

0:18:03 > 0:18:05- ..there's a Cae Reck.

0:18:05 > 0:18:09- Reck refers to the rack - used to dry the wool cloth.

0:18:09 > 0:18:13- The same rack - as the dindir referred to here.

0:18:25 > 0:18:30- I'm delighted to say we've reached - the first cnwc of the series, Rhian.

0:18:30 > 0:18:32- This is Cnwc Y Llygod Bach.

0:18:32 > 0:18:36- I'm familiar with the word cnwc - but I'm not sure what it means.

0:18:38 > 0:18:42- Cnwc is an Irish word - which has crossed over to Wales.

0:18:43 > 0:18:47- In Ireland, cnwc means mound, - protuberance or even a mountain.

0:18:48 > 0:18:53- It's a word which is commonly used - in every part of Ireland...

0:18:54 > 0:18:57- ..particularly in three counties - on the west cost.

0:18:58 > 0:19:01- Mayo, Sligo and Galway.

0:19:01 > 0:19:06- Did the Irish came over to Wales - and bring the word cnwc with them...

0:19:06 > 0:19:09- ..or did Welsh people - get it from Ireland?

0:19:09 > 0:19:13- There's evidence - that the Irish came over here...

0:19:13 > 0:19:16- ..and lived here - for periods of time.

0:19:18 > 0:19:20- They certainly left the name behind.

0:19:20 > 0:19:24- Cnwc is a wonderful, evocative name - for this field...

0:19:25 > 0:19:27- ..which slopes up before us.

0:19:27 > 0:19:29- I've seen no llygod bach - mice.

0:19:30 > 0:19:32- I hope I don't see any either!

0:19:35 > 0:19:37- If we go back to our map...

0:19:37 > 0:19:42- ..we see Cnwc Y Llygod Bach lies - beyond the village of St Nicholas...

0:19:42 > 0:19:46- ..and the main cluster of fields - on which we're focused.

0:19:47 > 0:19:51- Back in Ynys Deullyn, - on the final leg of this journey...

0:19:51 > 0:19:55- ..we see Waun Cobler, which leads to - Parc Yr Odyn Ddu and Dindir...

0:19:56 > 0:19:59- ..and then Parc Llwyd, - ending in Parc Y Ffynnon.

0:20:07 > 0:20:10- Parc Y Ffynnon - Well Field - is nearby.

0:20:11 > 0:20:14- We're standing by the well itself.

0:20:14 > 0:20:16- We're standing by the well itself.- - Yes. This is St Nicholas Well.

0:20:16 > 0:20:20- This well has been here - for thousands of years.

0:20:21 > 0:20:24- Local people relied on this well - for their water.

0:20:26 > 0:20:28- It has never run dry.

0:20:28 > 0:20:33- There's little difference in - the water flow in summer or winter.

0:20:34 > 0:20:37- Drought and wet periods - hardly affect it.

0:20:38 > 0:20:43- The ladies in the village told me - they came up here every day...

0:20:43 > 0:20:46- ..to fetch water - and to have a good natter.

0:20:47 > 0:20:50- As children, - during playtime at school...

0:20:50 > 0:20:53- ..if we were thirsty, - we'd run up here...

0:20:54 > 0:20:59- ..lie in front of the well - and put our heads in the water.

0:21:00 > 0:21:02- Have you seen any wildlife here?

0:21:03 > 0:21:06- Yes, about 20 yards from here...

0:21:07 > 0:21:10- ..I've found some young salmon - on several occasions.

0:21:11 > 0:21:16- Adult salmon must swim upstream - and lay eggs but I've never seen it.

0:21:17 > 0:21:18- They lay eggs in the gravel.

0:21:20 > 0:21:25- There's always a special ambience - by a well but this is very striking.

0:21:28 > 0:21:30- When I need some peace...

0:21:30 > 0:21:34- ..I come up here to sit quietly - and listen to birdsong.

0:21:35 > 0:21:39- There's a special - peace and tranquility here.

0:21:39 > 0:21:43- The dappled light which comes - through the trees is wonderful.

0:21:44 > 0:21:46- I feel great contentment - when I'm here.

0:22:15 > 0:22:19- Do these field names mean more - than a practical tool to you?

0:22:19 > 0:22:21- Yes, certainly.

0:22:21 > 0:22:23- They serve to remind me...

0:22:23 > 0:22:29- ..that people lived here hundreds - and thousands of years before me.

0:22:31 > 0:22:35- They relied on the land - for their livelihood...

0:22:36 > 0:22:37- ..and for their food.

0:22:37 > 0:22:42- It's important for us to remember - that we're caretakers of this land.

0:22:43 > 0:22:46- It's our duty to make sure - there's land here...

0:22:46 > 0:22:49- ..on which the next generation - can rely.

0:22:49 > 0:22:51- Have you kept notes?

0:22:51 > 0:22:52- Have you kept notes?- - Yes - maps and a diary.

0:22:53 > 0:22:56- Whenever I write something - for my grandchildren...

0:22:57 > 0:22:59- ..I mention the names of the fields.

0:23:00 > 0:23:02- It means nothing to them now...

0:23:04 > 0:23:06- ..but that may change in the future.

0:23:06 > 0:23:08- Who knows?

0:23:49 > 0:23:51- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones