0:00:00 > 0:00:00- Subtitles
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0:00:25 > 0:00:29- In this programme, we visit the area - where my father was born.
0:00:30 > 0:00:32- As summer turns into autumn...
0:00:32 > 0:00:36- ..I'll see through adult eyes - what he saw as a child.
0:00:37 > 0:00:39- The fields of north Ceredigion.
0:00:39 > 0:00:41- Welcome to Caeau Cymru.
0:00:49 > 0:00:53- In this series, we'll find - the meanings and the stories...
0:00:53 > 0:00:55- ..behind our field names.
0:00:56 > 0:01:02- So often, our rich language is the - key to the history of our culture.
0:01:02 > 0:01:05- In addition to farmers - and experts...
0:01:05 > 0:01:10- ..Dr Rhian Parry, the historian, is - by my side to help me on my journey.
0:01:10 > 0:01:16- Our country's landscape offers so - much more than breathtaking views.
0:01:19 > 0:01:24- Our journey begins with a Tithe map - in an ancient farmhouse.
0:01:25 > 0:01:28- Here we are - in north Ceredigion, Rhian.
0:01:29 > 0:01:30- Where exactly are we?
0:01:30 > 0:01:35- In the parish of Llangynfelyn, - in a village called Tre'r Ddol...
0:01:36 > 0:01:38- ..on Dol Clettwr farm.
0:01:39 > 0:01:43- I'm very familiar with this spot - because my father was born nearby.
0:01:44 > 0:01:45- Why are we here?
0:01:45 > 0:01:48- Because it's a fascinating farm.
0:01:48 > 0:01:53- It has a rich history and there are - some interesting field names here.
0:01:54 > 0:01:57- The farm is on the outskirts - of the village...
0:01:58 > 0:02:02- ..and the farm's history is - intertwined with that of Tre'r Ddol.
0:02:02 > 0:02:05- Tre'r Ddol was self-sufficient - in its day.
0:02:06 > 0:02:10- Yes, there was a Petty Sessions - court here and farms, of course.
0:02:10 > 0:02:14- There were also mines - and a hatmaking industry here.
0:02:15 > 0:02:17- The field names reflect that.
0:02:22 > 0:02:27- Rowland Davies's family has farmed - Dol Clettwr for several generations.
0:02:27 > 0:02:31- The house's history can be traced - back to at least the 16th century.
0:02:33 > 0:02:36- The farm's history is tied - to the history of Tre'r Ddol.
0:02:41 > 0:02:42- What are we looking at, Rowland?
0:02:42 > 0:02:43- What are we looking at, Rowland?- - That's Borth Bog.
0:02:45 > 0:02:49- All that lies between us and the sea - is the village of Borth.
0:02:49 > 0:02:53- It looks like - just one street from here.
0:02:53 > 0:02:57- Then we come around here - to Ynys-las and Aberdyfi.
0:02:57 > 0:03:01- I'm familiar with seeing Borth Bog - from the road...
0:03:01 > 0:03:04- ..but from up here, - we can see the land is raised.
0:03:04 > 0:03:07- When I was little, - I heard a story about it.
0:03:08 > 0:03:11- People said - that a frog lived on the bog...
0:03:11 > 0:03:16- ..and he'd come up here to do his - business in the same spot every day.
0:03:16 > 0:03:19- His droppings - raised the level of the land...
0:03:19 > 0:03:21- ..and that's why the land slopes.
0:03:22 > 0:03:24- All the other land is flat.
0:03:26 > 0:03:31- It's easy to forget that this is, - in fact, an industrial scene.
0:03:31 > 0:03:35- Industries other than agriculture - have thrived here.
0:03:35 > 0:03:39- Yes. Tre'r Ddol was famous - for hatmaking, clogmaking...
0:03:40 > 0:03:43- ..and for mining, - which took over everything.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47- People from across Wales - moved here as a result of it.
0:03:48 > 0:03:52- There are some cockle beds - down on the Dyfi estuary.
0:03:52 > 0:03:56- The locals flocked down there - to fetch their cockles.
0:03:58 > 0:04:03- When you plough this land, - you find cockle shells everywhere.
0:04:03 > 0:04:07- Once people had boiled them - and removed the cockles...
0:04:07 > 0:04:10- ..they threw the shells - on the fields.
0:04:10 > 0:04:14- Farmers used them on the fields - to improve the soil.
0:04:15 > 0:04:19- Someone who's born and bred - in Tre'r Ddol is a Cockletonian.
0:04:20 > 0:04:22- There aren't many of us left.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26- You must know all these field names.
0:04:26 > 0:04:27- You must know all these field names.- - Yes.
0:04:27 > 0:04:29- The road splits the farm.
0:04:30 > 0:04:34- The lower fields are at sea level, - then we climb up here...
0:04:34 > 0:04:38- ..to what we call Cae Uchaf - - Highest Field...
0:04:38 > 0:04:42- ..because it's the highest field - on the farm.
0:04:42 > 0:04:46- Cae Llygod - Mice Field - is its - old name but I call it Cae Uchaf.
0:04:46 > 0:04:49- My mother called it Cae Llygod.
0:04:50 > 0:04:53- During the War, - they ploughed all the fields.
0:04:53 > 0:04:58- But they kept crops in bundles here - and came here to do the threshing.
0:04:58 > 0:05:04- It was easier to store crops here - than try to get a horse up the road.
0:05:05 > 0:05:08- Mice then came in from the woods - to eat the haystack.
0:05:08 > 0:05:11- That was my mother's theory - about Cae Llygod.
0:05:23 > 0:05:25- We can see the farmhouse from here.
0:05:25 > 0:05:29- What's the name of the field - between us and the house?
0:05:29 > 0:05:33- That's Cae Cwrt. It stands - between us and the village.
0:05:38 > 0:05:43- Mam told me they held court sessions - in the Halfway pub in the village.
0:05:44 > 0:05:48- Magistrates got changed and powdered - their wigs at Dol Clettwr...
0:05:49 > 0:05:51- ..before the court session.
0:05:51 > 0:05:55- They walked through Cae Cwrt - - Court Field - to get there.
0:05:56 > 0:05:57- The name's stuck.
0:05:57 > 0:05:59- The name's stuck.- - Yes.
0:06:00 > 0:06:03- We're doing work to the house - at Dol Clettwr...
0:06:04 > 0:06:09- ..but the current bathroom - was a box room when I was a child...
0:06:09 > 0:06:12- ..and it was known as - the powder room back then.
0:06:13 > 0:06:17- I only found out why they called it - the powder room a few years ago.
0:06:17 > 0:06:21- It's because the judges - powdered their wigs in there.
0:06:22 > 0:06:26- I can't help but notice that - we're surrounded by oak trees...
0:06:27 > 0:06:31- ..but there's a weeping willow - by the house.
0:06:32 > 0:06:37- Yes. My parents went to garden party - at Buckingham Palace years ago.
0:06:39 > 0:06:43- They sheltered from the sun - under a weeping willow.
0:06:44 > 0:06:46- My dad being the man he was...
0:06:46 > 0:06:51- ..he took a cutting, put it in - his waistcoat and brought it home.
0:06:51 > 0:06:55- He put it in water - and that big tree grew from it.
0:06:55 > 0:06:58- That's a Buckingham Palace - weeping willow!
0:07:12 > 0:07:18- I was up there with Rowland earlier, - taking in the glorious views.
0:07:18 > 0:07:21- We talked about this field - - Cae Cwrt.
0:07:21 > 0:07:22- Is it a recent name?
0:07:23 > 0:07:26- Cae'r Pentre is the name - on the Tithe map...
0:07:27 > 0:07:31- ..but Rowland's family has - called it Cae Cwrt for generations.
0:07:31 > 0:07:35- The court in question here - is the Petty Sessions...
0:07:35 > 0:07:39- ..where the cases - of local petty crime were heard.
0:07:39 > 0:07:45- In one case, a sailor fell off his - sloop in the estuary and drowned...
0:07:47 > 0:07:50- ..as the sloop ran aground.
0:07:52 > 0:07:57- The inquest into his death was held - in the farmhouse at Dol Clettwr...
0:07:57 > 0:07:59- ..as part of a Petty Session.
0:07:59 > 0:08:04- Tre'r Ddol is small but it must have - been lively if they needed a court!
0:08:05 > 0:08:08- Well, they had busy periods here.
0:08:08 > 0:08:12- The development of new industry - saw the population change.
0:08:13 > 0:08:16- That's very much reflected - in the nature of the cases...
0:08:17 > 0:08:20- ..which were heard - at the Petty Sessions.
0:08:20 > 0:08:22- The more serious cases...
0:08:22 > 0:08:26- ..were sent to be heard - at the Great Sessions in Cardigan.
0:08:27 > 0:08:30- There are some fascinating examples - among them.
0:08:31 > 0:08:36- Around a dozen of Tre'r Ddol - villagers were called there.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40- They were accused - of assault and riots.
0:08:41 > 0:08:44- They'd attacked someone - from this village.
0:08:45 > 0:08:50- Interestingly, three women and - their husbands were among them...
0:08:50 > 0:08:54- ..as were a hatmaker, a miner - and the local blacksmith.
0:08:55 > 0:08:57- Things have calmed down a bit here!
0:08:57 > 0:08:59- Things have calmed down a bit here!- - Absolutely.
0:09:04 > 0:09:09- Next, to part of the farm which - reflects the area's industrial past.
0:09:10 > 0:09:14- We're in the woods above - Cae Hirfaen - Long Stone Field.
0:09:15 > 0:09:19- The land bears some scars - and the two things are linked.
0:09:19 > 0:09:21- Yes. This field is called Llain Hir.
0:09:22 > 0:09:26- Llain Hir means Long Quillet, - or a rectangular piece of land.
0:09:26 > 0:09:30- Quillets are quite common - and this really is a long one.
0:09:31 > 0:09:35- It's mentioned in documents - going back one or two centuries.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39- Llain Hir is by no means a new name.
0:09:39 > 0:09:43- Interestingly, the mining industry - took over the field name.
0:09:44 > 0:09:49- It's known as Mwynglawdd Y Llain Hir - - Long Quillet Mine.
0:09:51 > 0:09:56- Lead, copper and zinc - were mined here, but mostly lead.
0:10:02 > 0:10:06- A man who has family connections - with mining in this area...
0:10:07 > 0:10:11- ..is the shepherd, Erwyd Howells.
0:10:12 > 0:10:16- Erwyd, explain your link - with the mining industry here.
0:10:17 > 0:10:21- My great-grandfather - lived in the Tre'r Ddol area...
0:10:21 > 0:10:25- ..for a few years - after he got married...
0:10:25 > 0:10:29- ..on a farm called Ynys Tudur, - about a mile and a half from here.
0:10:30 > 0:10:33- He worked for the mining works - as a carrier.
0:10:35 > 0:10:40- Horses and carts were used - to carry minerals...
0:10:41 > 0:10:44- ..especially from Cwmystwyth.
0:10:44 > 0:10:48- People said that this area - had hidden riches.
0:10:48 > 0:10:50- The minerals were our great wealth.
0:10:52 > 0:10:55- Working underground - was very tough indeed...
0:10:56 > 0:10:58- ..but it paid better than farm work.
0:10:59 > 0:11:03- These are some of the tools - which were used by miners.
0:11:05 > 0:11:08- This is a chisel - which they used to split the stone.
0:11:12 > 0:11:14- They'd hit it with a hammer?
0:11:14 > 0:11:19- Yes, they'd use a lump hammer, - like this one...
0:11:19 > 0:11:22- ..and hit the small chisels - to start the hole.
0:11:24 > 0:11:27- They also used long chisels...
0:11:27 > 0:11:31- ..to bore into areas - which were difficult to access.
0:11:33 > 0:11:38- It beggars belief, but children as - young as nine or ten worked here...
0:11:38 > 0:11:43- ..and it was their job to stand - with the chisel on one shoulder.
0:11:43 > 0:11:46- Then tap, half a turn. - Tap, half a turn.
0:11:46 > 0:11:49- They kept doing that - to get a hole started.
0:11:50 > 0:11:53- Do we know - how much minerals they carried?
0:11:53 > 0:11:58- Yes. There are details - written in this notebook.
0:11:59 > 0:12:01- It belonged to - my great-grandfather...
0:12:03 > 0:12:06- ..David Mason, - Llanfedw, Devil's Bridge.
0:12:06 > 0:12:07- Is that his handwriting?
0:12:07 > 0:12:09- Is that his handwriting?- - Yes.
0:12:09 > 0:12:10- It's in Welsh too.
0:12:10 > 0:12:12- It's in Welsh too.- - Yes. That's important.
0:12:12 > 0:12:18- He carried minerals from Cwmystwyth - to Devil's Bridge to meet the train.
0:12:19 > 0:12:22- He was a busy man. - He carried tons of minerals.
0:12:22 > 0:12:25- Yes - on average, - he carried 2.5 tons.
0:12:25 > 0:12:30- You must treasure that notebook.
0:12:30 > 0:12:31- You must treasure that notebook.- - Yes. It's a real gem.
0:12:35 > 0:12:37- A HAMMER HITS A CHISEL REPEATEDLY
0:12:39 > 0:12:42- This is an old poem - about the lead mine.
0:12:42 > 0:12:44- We don't know who wrote it.
0:12:44 > 0:12:49- Tref Y Ddol and Talybont - And Sian Morgan's beer
0:12:49 > 0:12:55- Work is scarce in the lead mine - Leaving me short of money.
0:12:55 > 0:12:55- .
0:13:00 > 0:13:00- Subtitles
0:13:00 > 0:13:02- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:13:04 > 0:13:09- In Caeau Cymru, we dig for - the stories behind field names.
0:13:10 > 0:13:15- This digital map shows us the fields - we've already seen in Dol Clettwr.
0:13:15 > 0:13:18- Cae Cwrt, Llain Hir and Cae Llygod.
0:13:18 > 0:13:22- The village of Tre'r Ddol - is very close to the farm...
0:13:22 > 0:13:26- ..and the A487 road - goes straight through the land.
0:13:30 > 0:13:33- In the second half - of the programme...
0:13:33 > 0:13:37- ..we visit Cae Briws, - Cae Ger Yr Afon and Cae Glas...
0:13:37 > 0:13:41- ..before reaching our journey's end - in Cae Tu Ol I'r Ysgol.
0:13:42 > 0:13:44- This is Cae Briws - Briws Field.
0:13:44 > 0:13:49- English people or Scottish people - say Bruce but it's Briws.
0:13:50 > 0:13:52- Briws comes from brewhouse.
0:13:53 > 0:13:54- Ah! Not Bruce, then.
0:13:55 > 0:13:56- No - they brewed beer here.
0:13:57 > 0:13:58- They brewed here?
0:13:58 > 0:14:03- Yes - there was a brewhouse - in Cae Cornel over there.
0:14:05 > 0:14:09- If you'd come here - a fortnight ago, before we cut it...
0:14:10 > 0:14:15- ..you'd have seen that these hops - still grow in the hedgerows.
0:14:18 > 0:14:22- It's been an exceptionally dry year - and these hops smell smoky.
0:14:26 > 0:14:28- They used these hope for brewing?
0:14:28 > 0:14:29- They used these hope for brewing?- - Yes.
0:14:30 > 0:14:34- During the heyday of mining, - so many people moved here...
0:14:35 > 0:14:37- ..they needed more beer.
0:14:37 > 0:14:40- That's why - they had to brew more beer.
0:14:40 > 0:14:43- There were two or three pubs - in the village...
0:14:44 > 0:14:46- ..so they needed beer.
0:14:47 > 0:14:49- Dol Clettwr Ale? - There's a ring to it.
0:14:50 > 0:14:51- You should market it.
0:14:54 > 0:14:59- This is Cae Briws and next to it is - Penygraig, where your father lived.
0:15:00 > 0:15:02- There it is - right next door.
0:15:02 > 0:15:07- I think your father played a lot - in this field, next to the river.
0:15:07 > 0:15:08- Yes.
0:15:15 > 0:15:19- Next, historian, Gwyn Jenkins - joins me in Cae'r Afon...
0:15:20 > 0:15:25- ..to tell me about another industry - which left its mark on this area.
0:15:25 > 0:15:29- This is Cae'r Afon - River Field. - What's its story?
0:15:31 > 0:15:32- Mules were kept here.
0:15:32 > 0:15:37- These mules were used to carry hats - to markets and fairs...
0:15:39 > 0:15:42- ..across the whole of North Wales.
0:15:43 > 0:15:45- Hats which were made locally?
0:15:47 > 0:15:51- Yes, Tre'r Ddol was the main centre - for making felt hats...
0:15:51 > 0:15:55- ..in the late 18th century - and the early 19th century.
0:15:55 > 0:15:58- Nowhere in Wales - had so many hatmakers.
0:15:59 > 0:16:01- Around 50 of them worked here.
0:16:03 > 0:16:05- Why? It seems to be - a strange industry.
0:16:05 > 0:16:10- Yes, and I have several theories - about why they chose this location.
0:16:11 > 0:16:15- No other Welsh parish - had so many hatmakers living there.
0:16:15 > 0:16:20- I think it has something to do with - Borth Bog, which is over there.
0:16:21 > 0:16:24- The felt hats - which they created here...
0:16:25 > 0:16:29- ..were made of wool - and rabbit hair or hare hair.
0:16:30 > 0:16:34- In order to shape the hats, they - needed a pan of boiling water...
0:16:35 > 0:16:37- ..some vitriol and beer residue.
0:16:37 > 0:16:40- They then shaped the hats - in the pan.
0:16:42 > 0:16:44- The heat had to be maintained...
0:16:45 > 0:16:49- ..and the fact that peat was in - plentiful supply from Borth Bog...
0:16:50 > 0:16:52- ..made this an ideal location.
0:16:53 > 0:16:56- How would you describe - the style of these hats?
0:16:56 > 0:17:00- They varied but generally, - they were black, felt hats.
0:17:01 > 0:17:04- Some were made for miners...
0:17:04 > 0:17:09- ..and those were covered in wax and - resin to form a waterproof coating.
0:17:09 > 0:17:12- They also made hats for women.
0:17:12 > 0:17:17- It's believed these were the basis - for the tall hats...
0:17:18 > 0:17:24- ..developed by Lady Llanover as part - of the traditional Welsh dress...
0:17:24 > 0:17:26- ..in the 1830s.
0:17:27 > 0:17:30- That's the historical background - of it.
0:17:30 > 0:17:33- Just like the men, women wore hats.
0:17:43 > 0:17:48- David Davies was one of the last - great hatmakers from this area.
0:17:48 > 0:17:52- There's a reference to him - in a ballad by Owain Meirion.
0:17:53 > 0:17:56- I shall buy a new gown, - An apron and a petticoat
0:17:56 > 0:18:00- And laces and ribbons - In English Billy's shop
0:18:00 > 0:18:03- And socks and shoes - I shan't be without
0:18:04 > 0:18:08- I'll buy a new style of hat - From Dafydd Tre'r Ddol.
0:18:17 > 0:18:22- Rowland, I think I'm right to say - this field is full of history.
0:18:22 > 0:18:28- Yes, it's a historic field called - Cae Halfway, or Cae Glas to us.
0:18:30 > 0:18:33- It was part of The Halfway, - the village pub.
0:18:35 > 0:18:39- Canon Jack Hopkin Evans - ran the place when I was a boy.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43- He brought his cattle here - from Oswestry to graze.
0:18:46 > 0:18:49- The stagecoach horses - would stay here overnight.
0:18:49 > 0:18:52- They had stables at the Halfway...
0:18:52 > 0:18:56- ..which is halfway - between Aberystwyth and Machynlleth.
0:18:56 > 0:19:01- The horses were allowed to rest here - and fresh horses took over.
0:19:01 > 0:19:03- It's near the main road.
0:19:03 > 0:19:07- Yes, and the drovers - who stayed at the Halfway...
0:19:07 > 0:19:12- ..also brought the sheep or cattle - they were driving here.
0:19:13 > 0:19:18- My mother told me they sometimes - also kept geese here overnight.
0:19:18 > 0:19:21- They had to get them ready - for the road.
0:19:21 > 0:19:26- Yes, and my grandfather told me - people put tar under geese's feet...
0:19:26 > 0:19:29- ..so they wouldn't get damaged - on the road.
0:19:30 > 0:19:31- Like a pair of pumps!
0:19:32 > 0:19:33- Exactly.
0:19:35 > 0:19:40- You've seen some living history - as you've ploughed this field.
0:19:40 > 0:19:45- Yes. Jack asked me if I'd be willing - to plough the field in the 1960s.
0:19:45 > 0:19:48- It needed to be ploughed, - so I did the job...
0:19:50 > 0:19:52- ..alongside my father.
0:19:53 > 0:19:58- For five yards of one furrow, all - you could see were bits of china...
0:19:58 > 0:20:00- ..and lots of clay pipes.
0:20:01 > 0:20:07- There was a market here, years ago, - and that's why it was in the soil.
0:20:07 > 0:20:09- This place has a long history.
0:20:09 > 0:20:11- This place has a long history.- - Archaeological digging by plough!
0:20:12 > 0:20:13- Yes.
0:20:26 > 0:20:30- Rhian, this is Cae Tafarn Bach - and it's quite a big field.
0:20:31 > 0:20:34- It slopes - and it runs down to Tre Taliesin.
0:20:34 > 0:20:36- What's the story?
0:20:37 > 0:20:42- Rowland calls this Cae Tu Ol - I'r Ysgol - Field Behind The School.
0:20:42 > 0:20:46- Field names are often adapted - when circumstances change.
0:20:48 > 0:20:52- Comins Dafarn Bach is the - ancient name for Tre Taliesin.
0:20:53 > 0:20:55- That explains the connection.
0:20:56 > 0:21:00- I've seen the name Dafarn Fach - on a map...
0:21:01 > 0:21:04- ..which dated back to 1827.
0:21:05 > 0:21:08- The name was certainly in use - at that time.
0:21:10 > 0:21:15- The Wesleyans settled in Tre'r Ddol - around 20 years later...
0:21:16 > 0:21:20- ..and it seems the name - Dafarn Fach - Little Tavern...
0:21:20 > 0:21:23- ..wasn't respectable enough - for them!
0:21:24 > 0:21:28- The name was changed, in time, - to Tref Taliesin...
0:21:32 > 0:21:35- ..to add a note of respectability - to everything...
0:21:36 > 0:21:40- ..following the demise - of the mining industry in this area.
0:21:41 > 0:21:44- Has something similar - happened elsewhere?
0:21:45 > 0:21:46- Yes.
0:21:46 > 0:21:50- Cwmrhydycwrw - - valley of the ford of beer...
0:21:50 > 0:21:54- ..became Cwmrhydyceirw - - valley of the ford of deer.
0:21:54 > 0:21:56- Oh, that's nice!
0:21:56 > 0:22:00- Also, legend has it that - Ffynnongwrw - beer fountain...
0:22:00 > 0:22:04- ..was changed to Ffynnongroyw - - clear fountain.
0:22:11 > 0:22:15- Rowland, my first impression - of you...
0:22:15 > 0:22:19- ..was that you're a traditional man - who likes these old names.
0:22:20 > 0:22:23- But you've modernized - Cae Tafarn Bach...
0:22:23 > 0:22:26- ..and you call it - Cae Tu Cefn I'r Ysgol.
0:22:27 > 0:22:28- No - Cae Tu Ol I'r Ysgol.
0:22:29 > 0:22:33- That's what I call it and - that's what I'll always call it.
0:22:33 > 0:22:36- Katie Isaac, your great-aunt, - was a teacher.
0:22:36 > 0:22:38- She was a true teacher.
0:22:38 > 0:22:40- The Three Rs meant a lot to her.
0:22:41 > 0:22:45- I met her when I was with my father - when I was three and a half...
0:22:45 > 0:22:50- ..and she said, "Let him come over - the wall to join these children."
0:22:50 > 0:22:54- That was my first day at school, - when I was three and a half.
0:22:54 > 0:22:57- It will always be - Cae Tu Ol I'r Ysgol to me.
0:22:58 > 0:23:02- I was born here, I grew up here - and I hope to die here.
0:23:02 > 0:23:04- I'll be a Cockletonian for ever.
0:23:05 > 0:23:07- What sort of person is that?
0:23:08 > 0:23:11- A tough nut who looks after himself - and his friends.
0:23:11 > 0:23:14- A Cockletonian is emotional too.
0:23:15 > 0:23:17- We can cry at anything.
0:23:18 > 0:23:20- We're softies really...
0:23:20 > 0:23:25- ..but if we need to be tough - and stubborn, that's what we'll be.
0:23:54 > 0:23:56- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:23:56 > 0:23:56- .