0:00:00 > 0:00:00- Subtitles
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:00:22 > 0:00:27- We're in the Llanuwchllyn area - in search of old field names...
0:00:27 > 0:00:31- ..between a disused railway track - and the shadow of a forest.
0:00:32 > 0:00:35- Some things change - but others stay the same.
0:00:35 > 0:00:37- Welcome to Caeau Cymru.
0:00:43 > 0:00:47- On this series, we unlock - the history behind field names.
0:00:50 > 0:00:55- I travel across Wales in the company - of the expert, Rhian Parry...
0:00:55 > 0:01:00- ..in search of myths, legends - and missing pieces of our history.
0:01:01 > 0:01:06- The history of the countryside - is often buried deep in the soil...
0:01:06 > 0:01:08- ..and we aim to uncover it.
0:01:12 > 0:01:16- This Tithe map seems a bit - lacking in detail to me...
0:01:16 > 0:01:20- ..but I can see we're going to - the Llanuwchllyn area.
0:01:20 > 0:01:25- It's a story of land being divided - and then joined together again.
0:01:25 > 0:01:29- Yes, we're going to Penllyn - and the township of Penaran.
0:01:29 > 0:01:32- There's a fascinating estate here.
0:01:33 > 0:01:37- We've traced its history - from 1515 to the present day.
0:01:38 > 0:01:40- There's real continuity here.
0:01:40 > 0:01:44- The same family - has owned this estate for centuries.
0:01:45 > 0:01:50- The most recent tenants - farmed that land for 300 years.
0:01:51 > 0:01:56- That family then had the opportunity - to purchase the estate in the 1960s.
0:01:59 > 0:02:02- These estate documents - list the field names.
0:02:03 > 0:02:07- Do they show us that those names - have changed over the years?
0:02:08 > 0:02:10- Remarkably few names have changed.
0:02:11 > 0:02:13- It's all because of continuity.
0:02:14 > 0:02:18- The tenants passed the tenancy down - to their children...
0:02:18 > 0:02:21- ..and that process - safeguarded the names.
0:02:26 > 0:02:31- Before the 16th century, a Welsh - noble family lived in Llwyngwern...
0:02:31 > 0:02:34- ..and kept a herd - of Welsh Black cattle.
0:02:35 > 0:02:39- Since then, two powerful estates - have owned the land.
0:02:40 > 0:02:45- The Plas Gwyn Estate of Anglesey - and then Glanllyn Estate.
0:02:46 > 0:02:51- Over the centuries, the tenants have - seen good times and hard times...
0:02:51 > 0:02:55- ..but the vital thing is the - continuation of Welsh culture...
0:02:55 > 0:02:59- ..and that's what keeps - field names alive.
0:03:01 > 0:03:06- Hywel Jones's family has farmed the - land of Llwyngwern for 300 years.
0:03:06 > 0:03:11- Hywel's father succeeded in - purchasing the farm in the 1960s.
0:03:12 > 0:03:17- Hywel knows at least 90 - of the field names by heart.
0:03:18 > 0:03:22- Hywel, Bala Lake is behind us - and your farm is ahead of us.
0:03:22 > 0:03:25- You know the fields by names, - not numbers.
0:03:25 > 0:03:28- Yes. The names are very important.
0:03:29 > 0:03:30- We're standing in Cae Gwyn.
0:03:32 > 0:03:36- Cae Glas, Pant Glas and Cae Pistyll - are over here.
0:03:36 > 0:03:40- Cae Crwn, Gwaith Gwr and Mur Llwyd - are over there.
0:03:40 > 0:03:43- Have some of them changed - over the years?
0:03:44 > 0:03:48- Yes, and some of them have changed - within living memory for me.
0:03:48 > 0:03:52- Two fields were joined together - and Dol Ganol took over.
0:03:54 > 0:03:57- We don't use Clwt Coch now. - It's part of Dol Ganol.
0:03:59 > 0:04:03- There's an interesting story - about the field behind you.
0:04:03 > 0:04:06- Yes. That field - was part of Eithin Fynydd.
0:04:06 > 0:04:09- It was called Penrhos Wen back then.
0:04:09 > 0:04:12- During the War, - a plane flew over here...
0:04:12 > 0:04:17- ..and they must have seen a light in - Llwyn Cadi, which is now a ruin...
0:04:18 > 0:04:22- ..and they dropped a bomb - right here, in the hollow.
0:04:24 > 0:04:25- Where the rushes now grow?
0:04:25 > 0:04:26- Where the rushes now grow?- - Yes.
0:04:27 > 0:04:29- That field then became Cae Bomb.
0:04:29 > 0:04:31- Are we safe up here today?
0:04:31 > 0:04:35- We're safe from planes - but not from the rain!
0:04:40 > 0:04:45- Our digital map gives you an idea - of the sight Hywel and I saw...
0:04:45 > 0:04:48- ..as we looked across - the land of Llwyngwern.
0:04:48 > 0:04:53- Since the 1960s, Hywel's family has - also bought Maes Gwyn...
0:04:53 > 0:04:55- ..Hendre Fawr and Eithin Fynydd.
0:04:56 > 0:04:57- The farm's fields...
0:04:58 > 0:05:03- ..are divided between flat land near - River Dee and the old railway...
0:05:03 > 0:05:06- ..and steep land - which rises to the mountain.
0:05:06 > 0:05:10- We'll take a close look - at Drylliau'r Tarw...
0:05:10 > 0:05:13- ..Ffynnon Madyn, Pwll Cywarch - and Moel Y Caws.
0:05:16 > 0:05:21- Next, we head to Bryn Eurych, where - the landscape is full of history.
0:05:25 > 0:05:29- Rhian, here we are - in the shadow of Moel Y Caws...
0:05:29 > 0:05:31- ..on the boundary of Llwyngwern.
0:05:32 > 0:05:37- We're standing next to some ruins - belonging to an ancient community.
0:05:37 > 0:05:40- Yes. This cairn dates back - to the Bronze Age.
0:05:41 > 0:05:44- This mountain pasture - is called Bryn Eurych.
0:05:45 > 0:05:48- Eurych means goldsmith.
0:05:48 > 0:05:51- That's striking in itself, isn't it?
0:05:54 > 0:05:57- We're standing - on one of three mounds.
0:05:57 > 0:06:02- They're part of a rich historical - and archaeological landscape...
0:06:02 > 0:06:05- ..which is of great interest to me.
0:06:06 > 0:06:08- It gives you - a real feel of the place.
0:06:08 > 0:06:12- There's more than one - piece of evidence here.
0:06:12 > 0:06:15- This is an archaeological landscape.
0:06:17 > 0:06:19- What we have here is a cairn.
0:06:19 > 0:06:22- There has been - no archaeological dig here...
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- ..but it's surrounded - by a circle of stones.
0:06:26 > 0:06:30- If we did dig here, we would - in all probability find a chest...
0:06:30 > 0:06:35- ..which would contain a vessel - similar to an urn.
0:06:35 > 0:06:40- In that urn there would be bones - which were probably charred.
0:06:43 > 0:06:47- People in ancient times - carried their ancestors with them...
0:06:48 > 0:06:51- ..to bury again - as they settled in a new area.
0:06:52 > 0:06:54- This is a very important site.
0:06:55 > 0:07:00- It's steeped in ceremony, - religion and burial.
0:07:00 > 0:07:04- It's believed there was a village - in the hollow behind me.
0:07:06 > 0:07:10- Yes, and the village may date back - to the same period as the cairn.
0:07:11 > 0:07:16- The remains on that site have been - reused down the generations.
0:07:19 > 0:07:22- There are remains - from the Middle Ages....
0:07:23 > 0:07:26- ..in the form of small round houses.
0:07:28 > 0:07:34- These yard walls are known here as - waliau da i ddim - useless walls!
0:07:34 > 0:07:39- They're not there to enclose - in the way a field is enclosed.
0:07:39 > 0:07:44- They bridged the gaps with willow - to complete the circle...
0:07:44 > 0:07:47- ..so these look like the remains - of useless walls!
0:07:47 > 0:07:51- This land is used - as mountain pasture by Hywel.
0:07:51 > 0:07:54- Yes, it's grazing land - but not only for his land.
0:07:54 > 0:07:59- Several nearby farms share - the grazing rights for the estate.
0:08:00 > 0:08:06- Hywel's grazing rights - stretch north-west of there...
0:08:07 > 0:08:12- ..following the winding River Dee - all the way to Y Dduallt.
0:08:12 > 0:08:15- That's a mile or two from here.
0:08:23 > 0:08:28- Traditionally, the farmers of Wales - had grazing rights on the mountains.
0:08:28 > 0:08:33- Things changed after World War II - when land on the hills was sold...
0:08:33 > 0:08:35- ..impairing farming methods.
0:08:35 > 0:08:41- Hywel's father didn't sell Bryn - Eurych to the Forestry Commission...
0:08:41 > 0:08:45- ..but the forests have an impact - on Llwyngwern.
0:08:49 > 0:08:52- What's that building we can see - by the river?
0:08:52 > 0:08:54- That was the old sheep wash.
0:08:55 > 0:09:01- The farmers brought sheep here to be - washed before they were sheared.
0:09:01 > 0:09:06- At that time, the Wool Board paid - more for washed, grease-free wool...
0:09:06 > 0:09:08- ..than for unwashed wool.
0:09:09 > 0:09:12- The sheep were herded - into the pen.
0:09:13 > 0:09:17- They were thrown into the water - and they swam out again...
0:09:17 > 0:09:21- ..then we'd leave them here to dry - for a few days.
0:09:21 > 0:09:25- It was a big day and everyone - brought a picnic with them.
0:09:25 > 0:09:28- I remember enjoying that day.
0:09:29 > 0:09:31- Do you graze your sheep up there?
0:09:31 > 0:09:32- Do you graze your sheep up there?- - Yes.
0:09:32 > 0:09:35- How do you get them up there?
0:09:35 > 0:09:38- How do you get them up there?- - We use the Forestry Commission road.
0:09:38 > 0:09:42- We walk them up there, - and it's a five kilometre walk...
0:09:42 > 0:09:46- ..from the sheepwalk gate - to the mountain gate.
0:09:48 > 0:09:52- In the old days, we'd walk them - through that iron gate...
0:09:52 > 0:09:56- ..over this bank - and through the trees.
0:09:56 > 0:09:58- You were up there in no time.
0:09:59 > 0:10:01- The names live on, don't they?
0:10:02 > 0:10:07- Yes, and this is Mynydd Ty Mawr, - near Tref Eurych gold mine.
0:10:07 > 0:10:11- Through those trees is Y Dduallt - - the black hill.
0:10:11 > 0:10:13- That name refers to - the steep, black rock.
0:10:14 > 0:10:19- There many other names - like Bol Canol, Bwlch Yr Hwrdd...
0:10:19 > 0:10:23- ..Gwastad Mawr Dan Y Dduallt - and Bryn Yr Wyn.
0:10:24 > 0:10:28- Thousands of acres of land - are now covered in trees.
0:10:28 > 0:10:30- They were once farms.
0:10:30 > 0:10:34- Mynydd Yr Hendre, Mynydd Caer Gai, - Mynydd Tyddyn Felin...
0:10:34 > 0:10:36- ..and Mynydd Penbryn Coch.
0:10:37 > 0:10:39- My father told me about them.
0:10:39 > 0:10:44- All the field names on that land - are buried beneath the trees.
0:10:44 > 0:10:46- It's a crying shame.
0:11:08 > 0:11:08- .
0:11:13 > 0:11:13- Subtitles
0:11:13 > 0:11:15- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:11:18 > 0:11:23- This time, we study the history - of the landscape of Llwyngwern...
0:11:23 > 0:11:25- ..near Llanuwchllyn.
0:11:26 > 0:11:28- Next, we head to the slopes.
0:11:33 > 0:11:39- Hywel, is what we see around us here - a fair representation of your land?
0:11:39 > 0:11:41- Yes, I think so.
0:11:43 > 0:11:47- Around two thirds of the farm - is made up of rocks...
0:11:48 > 0:11:50- ..rushes, heather and bracken.
0:11:50 > 0:11:53- What names are there in this area?
0:11:53 > 0:11:54- What names are there in this area?- - Pen Cae Lloeau.
0:11:57 > 0:12:00- Pistyll Mardyn cascade - is part of this field.
0:12:01 > 0:12:04- That's Ffridd Fain - - Narrow Sheepwalk.
0:12:04 > 0:12:07- It was called Ffridd Fawr - - Great Sheepwalk...
0:12:08 > 0:12:12- ..until the Forestry Commission - planted those trees...
0:12:12 > 0:12:15- ..and left us - with a narrow sheepwalk.
0:12:15 > 0:12:17- These rocks have names too.
0:12:17 > 0:12:19- These rocks have names too.- - Yes. Llechen Ddu.
0:12:20 > 0:12:24- In the depths of winter, - that rock freezes for days.
0:12:25 > 0:12:28- When it turns white, - I know a thaw is setting in.
0:12:29 > 0:12:31- Y 'Stafell - The Room.
0:12:33 > 0:12:37- There's a lush area there - where sheep become trapped.
0:12:38 > 0:12:40- That's Moel Y Caws - Cheese Hill.
0:12:40 > 0:12:42- How did it get its name?
0:12:42 > 0:12:43- How did it get its name?- - I'm not sure.
0:12:43 > 0:12:46- Perhaps it's shaped - like a piece of cheese?
0:12:47 > 0:12:49- A wall runs down the middle of it.
0:12:49 > 0:12:53- One side is covered in heather - and the other side is grassy.
0:12:53 > 0:12:59- The difference is probably down - to the way it was grazed...
0:12:59 > 0:13:01- ..down the centuries.
0:13:01 > 0:13:03- That explains the difference.
0:13:04 > 0:13:05- This cascade is important too.
0:13:05 > 0:13:07- This cascade is important too.- - Yes, it's very important.
0:13:08 > 0:13:11- I drink from it - every time I pass this way.
0:13:12 > 0:13:15- You can taste the iron - in that water.
0:13:16 > 0:13:20- When my grandmother - was in hospital in Wrexham...
0:13:20 > 0:13:23- ..their water - wasn't good enough for her...
0:13:23 > 0:13:27- ..so we carried water - from here to Wrexham for her!
0:13:27 > 0:13:31- I can't leave Pistyll Mardyn - without tasting the water.
0:13:36 > 0:13:40- Mm! Yes, you can taste the iron - in the water.
0:13:40 > 0:13:41- Yes, you certainly can.
0:13:42 > 0:13:43- It's cold too.
0:13:43 > 0:13:45- Yes.
0:13:55 > 0:14:00- Springs are another important - element of our landscape.
0:14:00 > 0:14:02- Mardyn spring flows here.
0:14:02 > 0:14:03- What does mardyn mean?
0:14:04 > 0:14:07- The name is recorded - as Mardyn and Madyn.
0:14:08 > 0:14:10- Madyn means fox.
0:14:11 > 0:14:15- That would be a perfectly natural - name to have here.
0:14:16 > 0:14:18- There are many springs here.
0:14:19 > 0:14:23- This is one of a dozen springs - on the same level on these slopes.
0:14:24 > 0:14:29- A farmhouse was built - near each one of the dozen springs.
0:14:29 > 0:14:35- That's because the spring met the - needs of the family and the stock.
0:14:35 > 0:14:38- There was no farmhouse here...
0:14:38 > 0:14:43- ..but what we have is the remains - of some ancient round houses.
0:14:44 > 0:14:48- They were known - as cytiau Gwyddelod - Irish huts.
0:14:49 > 0:14:53- This spring may have met their needs - at some point in time too.
0:14:55 > 0:14:59- Whenever I stand near a spring - or a cascade...
0:15:00 > 0:15:02- ..I sense a special atmosphere.
0:15:02 > 0:15:04- I think this is a special spot.
0:15:05 > 0:15:09- You almost feel compelled - to lower your voice.
0:15:10 > 0:15:12- You feel - you're in ancient surroundings.
0:15:13 > 0:15:17- Springs can be - very spiritual places.
0:15:17 > 0:15:21- We see pure water emerge - from the depths of the earth.
0:15:22 > 0:15:25- Springs were very important - to the Celts.
0:15:25 > 0:15:29- They connected the earth itself - to the outside world.
0:15:29 > 0:15:33- They linked the supernatural world - and the human world.
0:15:40 > 0:15:44- The lowlands of Llwyngwern - are on the banks of River Dee.
0:15:44 > 0:15:47- Here we see the remains - of the railway...
0:15:48 > 0:15:50- ..built here in the 19th century.
0:15:51 > 0:15:53- This track - left its mark on field names.
0:15:55 > 0:15:57- Your cattle looks excellent.
0:15:57 > 0:16:01- We're looking at the locations - we've just left.
0:16:01 > 0:16:04- Moel Y Caws - and Mardyn spring among the trees.
0:16:04 > 0:16:06- Yes - in that hollow.
0:16:06 > 0:16:09- We're stood on an old railway.
0:16:10 > 0:16:14- Yes. It was built here in the 1860s - and it closed in 1963.
0:16:15 > 0:16:18- When the great snow - of 1963 thawed...
0:16:18 > 0:16:22- ..River Dee, - which runs over here, overflowed.
0:16:23 > 0:16:26- It broke a bridge - in the Llandrillo area...
0:16:26 > 0:16:31- ..and that's all the excuse - they needed to close the line.
0:16:31 > 0:16:35- The railway must have sparked - many changes in this area.
0:16:36 > 0:16:40- Yes. We call the top field Dol Uchaf - and this is Dol Isaf.
0:16:41 > 0:16:45- According to the Tithe, - Dol Uchaf was called Cyfer Cam...
0:16:46 > 0:16:48- ..and this was Pwll Cywarch.
0:16:48 > 0:16:51- Cyfer Cam - Crooked Acre - wouldn't make sense now.
0:16:51 > 0:16:56- The railway straightened the fields, - so they changed the names.
0:16:56 > 0:17:01- It would have been a crooked field - then because it followed the river.
0:17:02 > 0:17:03- What about Pwll Cywarch?
0:17:05 > 0:17:07- They grew cywarch - hemp here.
0:17:09 > 0:17:13- They used hemp to weave ropes - which they tied around haycocks...
0:17:13 > 0:17:15- ..to stop the hay blowing away.
0:17:16 > 0:17:20- That tradition is dead - but you weave ropes from rushes.
0:17:20 > 0:17:24- Yes, I did it a lot as a child - and I can still do it.
0:17:24 > 0:17:26- I have a piece in my pocket.
0:17:27 > 0:17:30- I made it recently. - This sort of thing.
0:17:30 > 0:17:31- That's very neat.
0:17:32 > 0:17:36- It's too short - to go around a haycock.
0:17:36 > 0:17:37- Would it be strong enough?
0:17:37 > 0:17:39- Would it be strong enough?- - Yes, I think so.
0:17:42 > 0:17:44- You can use it to lead the bull.
0:17:44 > 0:17:45- You can use it to lead the bull.- - No, I don't trust him!
0:17:52 > 0:17:55- Local historian, Awel Jones, - joins me...
0:17:56 > 0:18:01- ..to shed light on the name - of a field called Drylliau'r Tarw.
0:18:03 > 0:18:07- The name of this field - conjures up all sorts of images.
0:18:09 > 0:18:11- Am I being overly romantic?
0:18:11 > 0:18:14- What's the theory behind the name?
0:18:14 > 0:18:15- What's the theory behind the name?- - The name has baffled me.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19- Dryll means a piece of land - divided into sections.
0:18:20 > 0:18:24- Dryll Tarw Mawr, Dryll Tarw Main - and Dryll Tarw Wrth Yr Afon...
0:18:25 > 0:18:26- ..sounded strange to me.
0:18:27 > 0:18:32- I noticed that the field behind us - is called Clwt Garw - Rough Land...
0:18:33 > 0:18:36- ..and I think Tarw - must come from Garw.
0:18:38 > 0:18:41- Dryll Tarw must mean - rough piece of land.
0:18:41 > 0:18:43- It doesn't mean tarw - bull.
0:18:45 > 0:18:49- I don't think Llwyngwern - would have a tarw main - thin bull!
0:18:49 > 0:18:50- No, it's not likely.
0:18:51 > 0:18:55- Some other fields here - are named after animals.
0:18:57 > 0:19:00- Yes, Porfa'r Hen Fuwch - - Old Cow's Pasture.
0:19:00 > 0:19:02- It's part of the common land.
0:19:03 > 0:19:06- Bryn Gaseg Goch - Red Mare's Hill.
0:19:07 > 0:19:10- Bwlch Y Danasod - and Cerrig Yr Ieirch.
0:19:10 > 0:19:14- Danasod and ieirch - were some sort of deer.
0:19:16 > 0:19:18- There's also Rhyd Y Re.
0:19:21 > 0:19:24- Gre is a collective noun for horses.
0:19:33 > 0:19:35- Drylliau'r Tarw - is an evocative name.
0:19:35 > 0:19:38- It's a field - which is just below us here.
0:19:39 > 0:19:43- Cattle has played a huge part - in this community.
0:19:44 > 0:19:47- Yes, especially in Penaran.
0:19:48 > 0:19:50- Cattle was more valuable than sheep.
0:19:51 > 0:19:56- We know that from The Lay Tax - of 1292...
0:19:57 > 0:20:02- ..which shows that local residents - had to pay 17% tax on their animals.
0:20:02 > 0:20:06- In fact, all their mobile assets - were taxed at 17%...
0:20:06 > 0:20:10- ..and that, of course, - included the animals.
0:20:12 > 0:20:17- In those times, a cow was worth - three shillings and four pence.
0:20:18 > 0:20:21- A sheep was worth only six pence.
0:20:23 > 0:20:27- We can see from this tax - that Penaran...
0:20:27 > 0:20:30- ..which is a very small area - of the county...
0:20:31 > 0:20:37- ..paid more tax - than any other hamlet.
0:20:38 > 0:20:40- That's remarkable.
0:20:40 > 0:20:45- It's a strong indication that cattle - created the area's wealth.
0:20:47 > 0:20:49- It really was an affluent area.
0:20:49 > 0:20:54- And we can see that the Welsh Black - is still flourishing on this land.
0:20:55 > 0:21:00- Yes, and seeing the Welsh Black here - tugs at the heartstrings.
0:21:01 > 0:21:04- Its feet are firmly rooted - in this land.
0:21:04 > 0:21:07- It takes us back - hundreds of years in time.
0:21:08 > 0:21:09- It looks at home here.
0:21:09 > 0:21:10- It looks at home here.- - Very much so.
0:21:20 > 0:21:24- We've seen fields which are named - after faraway places.
0:21:24 > 0:21:29- It's usually the field - furthest away from the farmhouse.
0:21:29 > 0:21:31- There's an example of that here.
0:21:31 > 0:21:33- There's an example of that here.- - Yes - Cae Birkenhead.
0:21:33 > 0:21:37- Birkenhead must have felt - very far away in those days.
0:21:58 > 0:22:00- Do you have a favourite name?
0:22:00 > 0:22:02- Do you have a favourite name?- - I don't know.
0:22:02 > 0:22:04- Maes Gwilym is a good name.
0:22:04 > 0:22:08- I like the sound of Gwndwn Crach. - It's a rough sound.
0:22:10 > 0:22:12- It's a rough patch of land.
0:22:14 > 0:22:15- Gwndwn Crach.
0:22:16 > 0:22:19- Drylliau'r Tarw is my favourite.
0:22:19 > 0:22:21- Yes, that's another good name.
0:22:22 > 0:22:24- I like Bryn Eurych too.
0:22:27 > 0:22:29- Every one of them rings like a bell.
0:22:31 > 0:22:34- Yes - an ancient sound - rings through them.
0:22:36 > 0:22:40- The best way to preserve them - is to use the names.
0:22:42 > 0:22:43- Use the names.
0:23:14 > 0:23:16- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:23:16 > 0:23:17- .