0:00:00 > 0:00:00- Subtitles
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:00:22 > 0:00:25- This time, - we're on the border with England.
0:00:25 > 0:00:27- Shropshire, to be precise.
0:00:28 > 0:00:32- Thankfully, the field names on this - side of Offa's Dyke have survived.
0:00:33 > 0:00:34- Welcome to Caeau Cymru.
0:00:40 > 0:00:46- By studying field names, we can - unlock the secrets of rural Wales.
0:00:46 > 0:00:50- Fields often give us the key - to the mysteries of history.
0:00:52 > 0:00:56- In this series, we reveal the - purpose and function of the land...
0:00:57 > 0:01:02- ..and tell the stories - which are interwoven with the land.
0:01:03 > 0:01:07- Historian and expert Dr Rhian Parry - helps me on my journey...
0:01:07 > 0:01:11- ..which begins this week - in the National Library.
0:01:14 > 0:01:20- This is an 1841 Tithe map of the - parish of Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant.
0:01:20 > 0:01:24- We're not on the road this week, - we're on the roads...
0:01:24 > 0:01:26- ..and on two borders.
0:01:26 > 0:01:28- Yes, and the borders are vital.
0:01:28 > 0:01:33- We're eight miles from the border - between Wales and England...
0:01:33 > 0:01:38- ..and we're on the border between - the old Powys dividing line...
0:01:38 > 0:01:41- ..between Powys Fadog - and Powys Wenwynwyn.
0:01:41 > 0:01:44- It's a strategically important spot.
0:01:44 > 0:01:47- It's - close to Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant...
0:01:47 > 0:01:52- ..which had a very early - market charter, dating back to 1284.
0:01:52 > 0:01:56- Everyone in this area sold - their livestock at this market.
0:01:56 > 0:02:01- Once they were sold, - drovers would walk them to England.
0:02:01 > 0:02:05- The roads which cross the farm - are very important.
0:02:05 > 0:02:07- What farm will we visit?
0:02:07 > 0:02:08- What farm will we visit?- - Trewern Ganol.
0:02:09 > 0:02:12- It's called Trewern Farm - on the Tithe map.
0:02:12 > 0:02:14- What about the fields?
0:02:14 > 0:02:18- There are many interesting names - in the schedules...
0:02:18 > 0:02:22- ..but among those we'll focus on - are Wern Fach Hir.
0:02:22 > 0:02:27- Gwern is in the name of the farm, - and gwern is a common name.
0:02:27 > 0:02:31- The difference here - is it's present in old documents...
0:02:31 > 0:02:35- ..and it sheds light - on some questions which we'll pose.
0:02:37 > 0:02:39- Cae'r Felin - Mill Field.
0:02:39 > 0:02:44- It's logical there was a mill here - with River Iwrch flowing past it.
0:02:44 > 0:02:46- Then, we have Maes Y Sarn.
0:02:46 > 0:02:48- Sarn means major road.
0:02:49 > 0:02:53- Like Sarn Helen, this was - a main road, not a small farm track.
0:02:55 > 0:02:58- We want to find out - a bit more about Maes Y Sarn.
0:03:07 > 0:03:11- We often come across field names - which have changed over time...
0:03:11 > 0:03:17- ..but, thanks to Rhian's research, - we discovered that Trewern Ganol...
0:03:17 > 0:03:22- ..a farm in Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant, - close to the border with England...
0:03:22 > 0:03:25- ..was once called Plas Uchaf - - Upper Manor House.
0:03:25 > 0:03:29- It was an important farm - and it's steeped in history.
0:03:29 > 0:03:32- It's rural - but it doesn't feel remote.
0:03:32 > 0:03:36- This has been a busy farm - down the centuries.
0:03:36 > 0:03:40- Yes, and Trewern relied on - constant comings and goings...
0:03:40 > 0:03:45- ..between Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant - and the border here.
0:03:47 > 0:03:51- This feels different - from farms further west.
0:03:51 > 0:03:53- It feels like a gentry farm.
0:03:54 > 0:03:58- We're not far from England and - that plays a part in this story.
0:03:59 > 0:04:03- Yes, you can feel an English - influence at every turning...
0:04:03 > 0:04:07- ..starting with the methods - they adopted to treat the land.
0:04:08 > 0:04:13- These manor houses were the homes - of relatively powerful families...
0:04:14 > 0:04:17- ..who administered - these small estates...
0:04:18 > 0:04:22- ..on a feudal pattern almost, - with servants working for them.
0:04:23 > 0:04:28- That happened in every townlet - in the parish of Mochnant.
0:04:30 > 0:04:35- The English name for this place - was recorded as early as 1086.
0:04:35 > 0:04:38- Yes, the old English name Alretone.
0:04:38 > 0:04:40- That is, alder plus town.
0:04:40 > 0:04:43- Exactly the same as Tref Gwern - in Welsh.
0:04:43 > 0:04:48- The two names existed side by side, - which is interesting.
0:04:59 > 0:05:02- Tom Morris now farms Trewern Ganol.
0:05:02 > 0:05:06- His great-grandfather - bought the farm in 1858.
0:05:08 > 0:05:13- The sale catalogue shows - that it was sold by Henfache Estate.
0:05:14 > 0:05:18- Tom is the third generation - to live and work here...
0:05:18 > 0:05:21- ..and his sons - have kept the tradition alive.
0:05:22 > 0:05:27- This is a wonderful spot to come and - cast your eye over your kingdom.
0:05:27 > 0:05:30- Yes, we're right in the middle - of the farm here.
0:05:31 > 0:05:35- You can look down at Trewern, - down Iwrch Valley...
0:05:36 > 0:05:38- ..towards Tanat Valley.
0:05:40 > 0:05:44- That's Llwyn Bryn Dinas, - an Iron Age hill fort.
0:05:45 > 0:05:47- Does this field have a name?
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- Yes. This is Cae Boncin - - Hummock Field.
0:05:50 > 0:05:52- The land certainly rises here.
0:05:52 > 0:05:53- The land certainly rises here.- - Yes, it's an apt name.
0:05:54 > 0:05:56- Did you come here, as a child?
0:05:57 > 0:05:59- Yes, I loved coming up here.
0:05:59 > 0:06:03- I'd sit on a rock over there - and gaze at all these fields.
0:06:05 > 0:06:06- It's a special place.
0:06:17 > 0:06:21- We know there was a mill at Trewern - centuries ago...
0:06:21 > 0:06:24- ..and Cae'r Felin - Mill Field - is over there.
0:06:24 > 0:06:28- Yes, it's recorded as Cae'r Felin - on the ancient maps...
0:06:28 > 0:06:30- ..but I call it Cae Bach...
0:06:31 > 0:06:33- ..and so did my ancestors.
0:06:35 > 0:06:38- River Iwrch flowed up there, - between the trees.
0:06:39 > 0:06:43- A ditch which stretched - from the top of the field...
0:06:43 > 0:06:47- ..carried water down here, - to the mill.
0:06:54 > 0:06:57- Around the 1860s, - they rerouted the ditch...
0:06:58 > 0:07:01- ..diverting the water down here, - to this mill...
0:07:02 > 0:07:05- ..with its brand new waterwheel.
0:07:05 > 0:07:07- This old wheel was worked hard.
0:07:08 > 0:07:10- Do you remember water flowing here?
0:07:10 > 0:07:12- Do you remember water flowing here?- - Yes, I remember it well.
0:07:13 > 0:07:18- We'd go up there, to the floodgate - at the top of the field...
0:07:18 > 0:07:22- ..to open the floodgate...
0:07:22 > 0:07:25- ..and release water - for the waterwheel.
0:07:25 > 0:07:29- When the work was done, - we'd close the floodgate.
0:07:29 > 0:07:30- Was that your job?
0:07:30 > 0:07:32- Was that your job?- - No, very rarely.
0:07:33 > 0:07:35- I was very young then.
0:07:35 > 0:07:37- Were you allowed inside the mill?
0:07:37 > 0:07:39- Were you allowed inside the mill?- - No, and the old rope is still there.
0:07:40 > 0:07:43- I wasn't allowed to go any further - than that rope.
0:07:45 > 0:07:49- I'd hold that rope and stick to - the health and safety rules!
0:07:49 > 0:07:53- There was a strap running - across there with the wheel...
0:07:53 > 0:07:58- ..and my father was afraid I'd get - hurt, so I wasn't allowed in there.
0:08:03 > 0:08:07- Old mills like this one are - part of the history of rural Wales.
0:08:08 > 0:08:11- One man - who knows a lot about them...
0:08:12 > 0:08:15- ..is the artefacts collector, - Alwyn Hughes.
0:08:15 > 0:08:21- At one time, craftsmen called - mill carpenters would go around...
0:08:22 > 0:08:24- ..from mill to mill.
0:08:24 > 0:08:28- They were paid a daily rate - by the miller to peck the stone.
0:08:28 > 0:08:31- It was known as pecking the stone.
0:08:31 > 0:08:35- It involved recutting the furrows - in the stone itself.
0:08:36 > 0:08:37- Were these tools used for that task?
0:08:37 > 0:08:39- Were these tools used for that task?- - Yes.
0:08:39 > 0:08:44- This was the main tool - a chisel - which was used to peck the stone.
0:08:45 > 0:08:48- A chisel slotted - into a staff, like this.
0:08:48 > 0:08:50- It was detachable.
0:08:50 > 0:08:55- The chisel wouldn't last long - because the stone was so hard.
0:08:55 > 0:08:59- Pieces of the chisel came away, - as has happened here.
0:09:00 > 0:09:05- As they pecked at the stones, the - shards of iron from the chisel...
0:09:06 > 0:09:09- ..would fly off - and become embedded in their flesh.
0:09:10 > 0:09:13- That's the root of the saying - 'show the mettle'.
0:09:13 > 0:09:17- It showed that person - was accustomed to hard work.
0:09:17 > 0:09:19- How were millers paid?
0:09:19 > 0:09:23- How were millers paid?- - They were paid in grain or in flour.
0:09:23 > 0:09:25- They may have been paid in meat.
0:09:25 > 0:09:28- Very little money changed hands.
0:09:28 > 0:09:31- How did they measure someone's wage?
0:09:31 > 0:09:34- They used - the old measure of the peck.
0:09:37 > 0:09:40- There was mention of the peck - in The Laws Of Hywel.
0:09:41 > 0:09:44- This is a peck, - which came from Cwm Cewydd mill.
0:09:44 > 0:09:48- They filled the peck with grain - until it was level.
0:09:51 > 0:09:55- Traditionally, they used a trick - when they did this.
0:09:56 > 0:10:00- They'd kick the peck - to allow the grain to settle...
0:10:00 > 0:10:04- ..then they'd drag a piece of wood - across the top...
0:10:04 > 0:10:07- ..to make sure - the measure was correct.
0:10:13 > 0:10:18- Some Trewern Ganol field names - reveal things about social history.
0:10:19 > 0:10:22- Yes, and Cae'r Felin - is a fine example of it.
0:10:22 > 0:10:26- We know from the history - of the house and the mill...
0:10:26 > 0:10:31- ..that a nobleman's family - lived here for centuries.
0:10:32 > 0:10:34- They had their own mill, of course.
0:10:34 > 0:10:38- And then, in 1600, - the land and the mill were sold...
0:10:38 > 0:10:42- ..to Sir Thomas Myddleton - from the Chirk estate.
0:10:42 > 0:10:46- From that point onwards, - we know the mill was rented out.
0:10:48 > 0:10:52- That fact is revealed - in a rent book dating back to 1623.
0:10:52 > 0:10:57- The mice which got to it - didn't manage to delete the records!
0:10:57 > 0:11:02- There are also some interesting - social developments afoot.
0:11:03 > 0:11:08- The sons of these families - were sent to Cambridge and Oxford...
0:11:08 > 0:11:12- ..to receive an education - and to become lawyers or clerics.
0:11:12 > 0:11:15- Back home, - craftsmen came into their own.
0:11:16 > 0:11:20- People such as the mill carpenters - and the blacksmiths.
0:11:20 > 0:11:23- Their skills were in great demand...
0:11:23 > 0:11:27- ..which meant they could - earn a living from their work...
0:11:27 > 0:11:29- ..for the first time.
0:11:32 > 0:11:32- .
0:11:37 > 0:11:37- Subtitles
0:11:37 > 0:11:39- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:11:49 > 0:11:51- An old Russian proverb says...
0:11:51 > 0:11:54- ..living life - is not like crossing a field.
0:11:54 > 0:11:56- I disagree!
0:11:56 > 0:12:01- The fields in Trewern Ganol are full - of life and fascinating stories.
0:12:09 > 0:12:13- One of our themes here in Trewern - is the roads which cross this land.
0:12:14 > 0:12:16- Is this field's name - linked to a road?
0:12:16 > 0:12:18- Yes, as are many of them.
0:12:18 > 0:12:23- We're now standing in a field - which is called Maes Y Sarn.
0:12:24 > 0:12:28- Maes means an open field - with no hedges...
0:12:29 > 0:12:34- ..so imagine a small road - cutting through this open field.
0:12:36 > 0:12:39- Sarn refers to a major road, - not a back road.
0:12:40 > 0:12:42- It was an important road.
0:12:44 > 0:12:48- This may not look like a main road - as we think of them today...
0:12:50 > 0:12:53- ..but it was extremely important - at one time...
0:12:53 > 0:12:56- ..particularly for the drovers.
0:12:56 > 0:13:02- They used this road to come from the - market in Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant...
0:13:03 > 0:13:04- ..past this open field...
0:13:05 > 0:13:10- ..and across River Iwrch over - what we now know as Trewern Bridge.
0:13:12 > 0:13:16- According to a document - from the Chirk estate, dated 1600...
0:13:17 > 0:13:19- ..this bridge had a different name.
0:13:21 > 0:13:26- It was referred to as Pont Rhyd - Y Porthmyn - Drovers' Ford Bridge.
0:13:26 > 0:13:29- It seems there was a ford here - for the drovers...
0:13:31 > 0:13:33- ..long before the bridge was built.
0:13:34 > 0:13:38- Is there more evidence - of the drovers' presence?
0:13:38 > 0:13:43- Yes, a nearby field which is called - Wern Fach Hir today...
0:13:44 > 0:13:48- ..but which was called - Wern Y Syllte - Shillings Alder.
0:13:53 > 0:13:55- I think that's a reference - to the fact...
0:13:56 > 0:14:00- ..that drovers rested - their cattle there overnight.
0:14:03 > 0:14:05- Their cattle was safe there...
0:14:05 > 0:14:09- ..and they paid a shilling or two - to use the land.
0:14:10 > 0:14:12- There are similar fields in Wales...
0:14:12 > 0:14:17- ..which were used - for this exact purpose.
0:14:17 > 0:14:22- Fields which are near the road - and convenient for drovers...
0:14:22 > 0:14:26- ..had names like Cae Dwy Geiniog - - Tuppence Field...
0:14:26 > 0:14:28- ..or Cae Dimau - Ha'penny Field.
0:14:29 > 0:14:31- This was an expensive field!
0:14:35 > 0:14:39- Our digital map shows us the roads - and the Trewern Ganol land.
0:14:42 > 0:14:45- Maes Y Sarn lies between - the farmhouse and the road...
0:14:46 > 0:14:48- ..which drovers used to travel east.
0:14:50 > 0:14:52- River Iwrch is here...
0:14:52 > 0:14:55- ..as is Rhyd Y Porthmyn - - Drovers' Ford...
0:14:55 > 0:14:58- ..which is now - known as Trewern Bridge.
0:14:58 > 0:15:02- Cae'r Felin - Mill Field - is next to Wern Coed - Alder Wood...
0:15:02 > 0:15:05- ..which is next to - another vital road.
0:15:07 > 0:15:11- This road, from the direction - of Llanrhaeadr...
0:15:11 > 0:15:14- ..splits the land - of Trewern Ganol in two...
0:15:14 > 0:15:18- ..and it crosses the Iwrch - towards the Ceiriog Valley.
0:15:19 > 0:15:22- Rhian has unearthed the old name - for Pont Cefn Hir...
0:15:22 > 0:15:26- ..namely Pont Llyvorion - - Torrent Bridge.
0:15:26 > 0:15:30- The third important road - is on the farm's northern border...
0:15:31 > 0:15:32- ..beyond Cae Boncin.
0:15:32 > 0:15:37- This road joins Ffordd Gam Elen, - which stems from the Bronze Age...
0:15:37 > 0:15:40- ..and leads to the Berwyn Mountain.
0:15:40 > 0:15:44- The roads give the fields - of Trewern Ganol their shape...
0:15:44 > 0:15:47- ..carrying stories with them.
0:15:47 > 0:15:51- The drovers' work was essential - to our rural economy.
0:15:52 > 0:15:57- Historian Iorwerth Davies sheds some - light on their fascinating lives.
0:15:59 > 0:16:03- Paint a picture for me - of the life of a drover.
0:16:04 > 0:16:09- First, try to work out how far - they'd be able to walk in a day.
0:16:09 > 0:16:14- The maximum they'd be able to walk - in a day would be 15 to 20 miles.
0:16:17 > 0:16:20- Just imagine, if they were - driving their animals...
0:16:21 > 0:16:23- ..all the way - to south-east London...
0:16:24 > 0:16:26- ..it took a long time to get there.
0:16:26 > 0:16:28- They needed places to stay.
0:16:30 > 0:16:34- They usually stayed in pubs - and they met other people there...
0:16:34 > 0:16:36- ..and they had a bit of fun.
0:16:37 > 0:16:41- Some of them were a bit shameless - on their way to London.
0:16:41 > 0:16:43- What do you mean?
0:16:45 > 0:16:48- They met some women - of dubious character.
0:16:50 > 0:16:55- But, in addition to driving animals, - they also carried things like money.
0:16:57 > 0:17:02- There are lots of stories about - drovers carrying butter and eggs...
0:17:02 > 0:17:04- ..to the smaller markets.
0:17:06 > 0:17:09- They went as far as Billericay...
0:17:09 > 0:17:14- ..and the animals were exported - from there to the continent.
0:17:14 > 0:17:17- They met French people - in Billericay...
0:17:17 > 0:17:22- ..and that's where - they saw the latest fashions...
0:17:22 > 0:17:25- ..from the continent.
0:17:26 > 0:17:30- They also went to pubs - and they heard songs.
0:17:31 > 0:17:35- Drovers would sing songs, - then bring them back to Wales.
0:17:35 > 0:17:39- Some of those melodies - were used as hymn tunes.
0:17:40 > 0:17:43- It sounds like a romantic life.
0:17:45 > 0:17:49- It may sound romantic - but it was a hard life.
0:17:51 > 0:17:54- They had to drive cattle - in all weather...
0:17:56 > 0:17:59- ..overcoming - all sorts of difficulties.
0:17:59 > 0:18:03- If I found us a horse each, - you wouldn't take the job?
0:18:03 > 0:18:06- Well, I'd like to ride a horse - to the south-east...
0:18:07 > 0:18:08- ..time permitting!
0:18:10 > 0:18:11- We'd sing along the way.
0:18:11 > 0:18:13- We'd sing along the way.- - Yes, I'm sure we'd have fun.
0:18:15 > 0:18:17- I meet Tom again...
0:18:17 > 0:18:22- ..in a field marked as Cae Ysgubor - - Barn Field - on the Tithe maps...
0:18:22 > 0:18:25- ..but which has - a different name today.
0:18:26 > 0:18:29- It's quite a walk - to the highest land on your farm.
0:18:29 > 0:18:32- Yes, and it's a lot easier - on a quad bike!
0:18:33 > 0:18:36- Yes - this is the highest part - of the farm.
0:18:36 > 0:18:38- There were some buildings here.
0:18:39 > 0:18:44- You can see the remains of a barn - and there was probably a house here.
0:18:44 > 0:18:49- As far as we're concerned, - this field is called Trewern Uchaf.
0:18:49 > 0:18:51- That's the name you use today?
0:18:51 > 0:18:53- That's the name you use today?- - Yes, and for generations.
0:18:55 > 0:18:59- You won't find Trewern Uchaf - on the Tithe maps...
0:18:59 > 0:19:03- ..or on the documents - relating to the sale in 1858...
0:19:03 > 0:19:05- ..when my family moved here.
0:19:05 > 0:19:07- That was Cae Ysgubor.
0:19:09 > 0:19:10- Did people live here?
0:19:10 > 0:19:12- Did people live here?- - Yes, it's very likely.
0:19:14 > 0:19:19- My grandfather found a reference - to it in the church records...
0:19:19 > 0:19:24- ..at Llanarmon Fach, - which is half way up that hill.
0:19:26 > 0:19:29- It says someone lived here - in the 18th century.
0:19:30 > 0:19:33- The remains - are of substantial buildings.
0:19:34 > 0:19:38- Yes, there was a barn here - to store crops...
0:19:39 > 0:19:43- ..which they harvested - from the fields around us here.
0:19:44 > 0:19:48- They harvested crops - and stored them in this barn...
0:19:48 > 0:19:53- ..to save having to carry it all - down to Trewern...
0:19:54 > 0:19:57- ..and back up again - to feed the stock.
0:19:58 > 0:20:01- Field names keep evolving. - It's a slow process.
0:20:09 > 0:20:13- Let's go back to our expert, - Alwyn Hughes...
0:20:13 > 0:20:18- ..to learn about the use made of - a wild plant growing in a wet field.
0:20:20 > 0:20:24- The alder tree which grows here - in Trewern loves wet land...
0:20:24 > 0:20:26- ..as do these rushes.
0:20:28 > 0:20:31- This field is called Cae Wern Mawr.
0:20:31 > 0:20:33- Rushes were very useful plants.
0:20:35 > 0:20:40- Yes. Rushes were very important, - until around 60 years ago.
0:20:40 > 0:20:44- Rushes were the main way - for people to light their homes...
0:20:45 > 0:20:48- ..using what's known as rushlights.
0:20:49 > 0:20:52- Rushes had to be harvested, - like every other crop.
0:20:53 > 0:20:57- The rush harvest happened - around the end of September.
0:20:58 > 0:21:03- The rushes were then cut to lengths - similar to this.
0:21:04 > 0:21:09- They would then - peel off the rind of each stalk...
0:21:12 > 0:21:16- ..until they were left with - just one thin strip of it.
0:21:17 > 0:21:22- That's where this pan came into it - - the grisset pan.
0:21:23 > 0:21:27- In this, they'd put mutton fat.
0:21:28 > 0:21:32- They put the grisset pan - on the fire, the fat would melt...
0:21:32 > 0:21:35- ..and the rushes - were placed in there.
0:21:35 > 0:21:38- The pith of a rush - is like a sponge...
0:21:39 > 0:21:41- ..and it absorbed the fat.
0:21:41 > 0:21:43- The rushes were then dried.
0:21:43 > 0:21:48- You placed a rushlight - in a holder, like this...
0:21:51 > 0:21:53- ..you lit one end of it - and burned it.
0:21:55 > 0:22:00- Imagine people reading their Bible - and making lace by rushlight.
0:22:01 > 0:22:05- We still use an old saying - that started with the rushlight.
0:22:06 > 0:22:11- Yes, as the rushlight burned, - they moved the rush in the holder...
0:22:11 > 0:22:14- ..until there was little left.
0:22:14 > 0:22:18- That's when they'd light - the other end of the rushlight...
0:22:18 > 0:22:21- ..thus burning the candle - at both ends.
0:22:21 > 0:22:24- Centuries back, - we'd be harvesting rushes.
0:22:25 > 0:22:29- Yes, that's what we'd be doing now, - in late September.
0:22:29 > 0:22:30- Thank goodness for electricity!
0:22:30 > 0:22:31- Thank goodness for electricity!- - Really?
0:22:46 > 0:22:48- What do these fields mean to you?
0:22:51 > 0:22:54- We're part of the land, as farmers.
0:22:55 > 0:23:00- We're the guardians of this land, - and have been for centuries.
0:23:02 > 0:23:04- As Ceiriog said...
0:23:05 > 0:23:08- "New shepherds on these - old mountains there may be
0:23:09 > 0:23:13- "But the old language is in the soil - and the old melodies are alive."
0:23:14 > 0:23:18- People come and go, - but these old fields remain.
0:23:18 > 0:23:23- I hope there will be people here - after us to take care of this land.
0:23:56 > 0:23:58- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:23:58 > 0:23:58- .