Mentro i'r Mor

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0:00:17 > 0:00:23- VENTURING TO SEA

0:00:44 > 0:00:47- Yes, - Wales and the sea is our subject.

0:00:47 > 0:00:51- But the story - doesn't begin in Wales.

0:00:59 > 0:01:04- Growing up on the Mersey, the sea - was an integral part of our lives.

0:01:07 > 0:01:10- Throughout the year, - ships from all over the world...

0:01:11 > 0:01:13- ..sailed in and out of the docks.

0:01:18 > 0:01:21- I was raised this side of the river, - in Birkenhead.

0:01:21 > 0:01:25- When I was a girl, the Liverpool - and Birkenhead docks were bustling.

0:01:26 > 0:01:29- My family was one of thousands - who flocked here from north Wales...

0:01:29 > 0:01:32- ..to work in one of the world's - busiest ports.

0:01:40 > 0:01:44- We didn't see magnificent ships - like The Lusitania sailing past.

0:01:45 > 0:01:48- Even so, the famous Cammel Laird - shipping yard...

0:01:49 > 0:01:52- ..employed hundreds of men, - many of them from Wales.

0:01:52 > 0:01:56- Oil tankers could be seen - sailing in and out...

0:01:56 > 0:01:59- ..from the dozen or more - working docks.

0:02:03 > 0:02:06- To me, venturing to sea - was completely natural.

0:02:07 > 0:02:11- The famous Mersey ferry - enabled me to visit Liverpool.

0:02:12 > 0:02:17- My father was a former ship's - captain but now worked on dry land.

0:02:17 > 0:02:21- He was responsible for ships - on both sides of the river.

0:02:22 > 0:02:24- My two brothers and I loved sailing.

0:02:27 > 0:02:30- We were raised with salt water - in our blood.

0:02:38 > 0:02:41- I swapped the shores of the Mersey - for the Menai Straits.

0:02:41 > 0:02:44- I can't live far - from the sight and smell of the sea.

0:02:45 > 0:02:47- We're that sort of family.

0:02:50 > 0:02:53- I'm with David, my eldest - brother's son, on board Glaslyn.

0:03:01 > 0:03:04- Life on the ocean wave - is an adventure and a thrill.

0:03:04 > 0:03:07- But to me, - sailing is almost second nature.

0:03:11 > 0:03:15- The human race has lived on dry land - for millions of years.

0:03:16 > 0:03:19- But according to scientists, - life began on the seabed.

0:03:21 > 0:03:24- That's the origin of all species - - each one of us.

0:03:25 > 0:03:29- It's hardly surprising - that throughout the centuries...

0:03:30 > 0:03:32- ..people have ventured to sea.

0:03:32 > 0:03:35- The history of man and the sea - is inseparable.

0:03:43 > 0:03:47- Primitive cousins of the human race - wandered parts of the earth...

0:03:47 > 0:03:49- ..for almost two million years.

0:03:50 > 0:03:53- But the geography and people - of today's Wales...

0:03:53 > 0:03:56- ..didn't exist until much later.

0:03:58 > 0:04:02- There is evidence that - primitive peoples inhabited Wales...

0:04:02 > 0:04:04- ..a quarter of a million years ago.

0:04:05 > 0:04:09- It was the earth's Ice Age.

0:04:10 > 0:04:15- Wales was covered with thick ice - for hundreds of thousands of years.

0:04:21 > 0:04:24- As the ice slowly melted - 12,000 years ago...

0:04:24 > 0:04:27- ..the seas rose around Britain.

0:04:29 > 0:04:33- The lowlands between the south Wales - coast and the west of England...

0:04:33 > 0:04:37- ..filled with water, - creating the Bristol Channel.

0:04:37 > 0:04:42- To the west, water flowed into the - valleys between Wales and Ireland.

0:04:48 > 0:04:51- There was a massive population boom.

0:04:52 > 0:04:58- Around 8,000 BC, five millennia - of global warming began.

0:04:59 > 0:05:03- A settled human society - could thrive in this new climate.

0:05:06 > 0:05:10- They gave up a nomadic lifestyle and - began to lay down permanent roots...

0:05:11 > 0:05:14- ..turning to agriculture - for sustenance, rather than hunting.

0:05:21 > 0:05:25- These peoples left behind the - earliest known traces of seamanship.

0:05:29 > 0:05:33- It's necessary to travel to Kent - in England to see those remains.

0:05:34 > 0:05:39- The boundary between England and - Wales didn't exist 3,000 years ago.

0:05:41 > 0:05:45- The Early Britons lived here.

0:05:46 > 0:05:50- The name Dover derives from - the Welsh word for water, 'Dwr'.

0:05:53 > 0:05:55- In September 1992...

0:05:55 > 0:05:59- ..while excavating a tunnel under - a new road leading to the harbour...

0:05:59 > 0:06:03- ..a workman found a series - of wooden rafters in the mud.

0:06:04 > 0:06:07- The rafters were part - of an ancient boat.

0:06:08 > 0:06:12- The discovery helped us - understand Bronze Age seamanship.

0:06:20 > 0:06:24- Owain Roberts is an international - authority on historical ships.

0:06:25 > 0:06:28- He's been studying the boat - for more than a decade.

0:06:31 > 0:06:35- Initially, I just looked - at archaeologists' findings.

0:06:35 > 0:06:37- My own research followed...

0:06:37 > 0:06:41- ..and I put the pieces together, - to form an actual boat.

0:06:43 > 0:06:47- We've never worked on such a boat.

0:06:47 > 0:06:50- I can't compare it to another boat.

0:06:51 > 0:06:53- I had to work from scratch.

0:06:56 > 0:06:58- The boat wasn't intact.

0:06:59 > 0:07:02- It was hard to decide - which new pieces to add...

0:07:03 > 0:07:06- ..that complemented - the original boat.

0:07:13 > 0:07:17- The boat was almost like a jigsaw, - with some pieces missing.

0:07:17 > 0:07:19- To fill the gaps...

0:07:19 > 0:07:23- ..Owain Roberts turned - to basic seamanship principles.

0:07:23 > 0:07:28- What was needed to turn the pile - of rafters into an actual boat?

0:07:29 > 0:07:34- After puzzling for months, Owain - Roberts published his final plans.

0:07:36 > 0:07:40- He was certain that this was - the original shape of the boat.

0:07:42 > 0:07:47- Many experts claim it was built - to work on the Dover river.

0:07:48 > 0:07:50- But as Owain Roberts' - plan took shape...

0:07:50 > 0:07:54- ..he became convinced that the boat - had sailed the oceans and seas.

0:07:58 > 0:08:01- They found pottery from Dorset - alongside the boat.

0:08:02 > 0:08:05- This proves she sailed - the English channel.

0:08:05 > 0:08:09- The remains of a cod - were still attached to her hull.

0:08:11 > 0:08:13- She'd therefore been a fishing boat.

0:08:17 > 0:08:19- Within a stone's throw of Dover...

0:08:20 > 0:08:24- ..another archaeological site - confirmed Owain Roberts' theory.

0:08:26 > 0:08:29- Divers found bronze pieces - from a shipwreck...

0:08:30 > 0:08:32- ..no boat, just these.

0:08:32 > 0:08:36- From chemical tests, - we know the metal came from France.

0:08:37 > 0:08:42- Some sort of commerce was ongoing - between France and Britain.

0:08:43 > 0:08:47- That told us it was obviously - a Bronze Age boat...

0:08:48 > 0:08:53- ..sailing along the coastline - and crossing to France.

0:08:55 > 0:08:58- The Dover boat - is one of the world's oldest.

0:08:58 > 0:09:02- There was a great deal of interest - in Owain Roberts' plans.

0:09:03 > 0:09:05- To prove the plans were practical...

0:09:05 > 0:09:09- ..shipbuilders reconstructed - the original boat.

0:09:10 > 0:09:13- They used the same - techniques and equipment...

0:09:13 > 0:09:16- ..that were available - in the Bronze Age.

0:09:16 > 0:09:20- The results can be viewed in - the exhibition of the original boat.

0:09:23 > 0:09:25- This is a model of a section - of the boat.

0:09:26 > 0:09:29- It demonstrates how - it was pieced together.

0:09:30 > 0:09:32- There are four pieces of wood.

0:09:33 > 0:09:35- Two big sections down the middle.

0:09:36 > 0:09:40- The sides were carved out - of a quarter of a tree trunk.

0:09:40 > 0:09:45- We believe another plank was above - it, but that plank hasn't appeared.

0:09:46 > 0:09:49- The wood from which it was carved - was substantial.

0:09:50 > 0:09:53- These blocks are this thick.

0:09:54 > 0:09:59- They started - with a piece of oak this wide.

0:10:02 > 0:10:04- There's been an incredible amount - of carving here.

0:10:05 > 0:10:08- The stitches tie - both sides together.

0:10:08 > 0:10:11- They were threaded - through the holes.

0:10:11 > 0:10:14- The hole below has been made - to prevent the stitch...

0:10:14 > 0:10:17- ..from being damaged on the beach.

0:10:18 > 0:10:23- The pressed wax seals the water, - as much as possible.

0:10:25 > 0:10:28- A different method was used down the - middle. There are no stitches here.

0:10:29 > 0:10:33- They've put small planks of wood - across.

0:10:33 > 0:10:36- Others were positioned - at an opposite angle.

0:10:36 > 0:10:40- They firmly secure - the two parts of the boat.

0:10:41 > 0:10:45- It's a very interesting trick. - I haven't seen it anywhere else.

0:10:45 > 0:10:47- They were a sophisticated crew.

0:10:47 > 0:10:48- They were a sophisticated crew.- - Very sophisticated.

0:10:50 > 0:10:56- They worked directly from - a piece of wood to create a shape...

0:10:56 > 0:11:01- ..without using plans. - That's more than we can do today!

0:11:01 > 0:11:04- The only comparable work - is the craft of a sculptor...

0:11:05 > 0:11:08- ..carving straight - into the material.

0:11:08 > 0:11:11- What was the lifespan of the boat?

0:11:11 > 0:11:15- How long would the stitches last?

0:11:15 > 0:11:18- The continuous motion - wore the stitches down.

0:11:18 > 0:11:21- Eventually, they'd disintegrate.

0:11:21 > 0:11:27- Once a year, they probably - pulled her ashore, and re-stitched.

0:11:27 > 0:11:32- Ships are repainted every winter - today.

0:11:32 > 0:11:34- It's the same idea.

0:11:41 > 0:11:44- The Dover boat is the best evidence - we have to prove...

0:11:44 > 0:11:47- ..that Bronze Age people - crossed the seas.

0:11:48 > 0:11:51- But there are other reasons - to believe...

0:11:52 > 0:11:55- ..that our primitive forefathers - were enthusiastic sailors.

0:12:02 > 0:12:04- All along the west coast of Wales...

0:12:04 > 0:12:08- ..dozens of megalithic tombs - have been discovered.

0:12:09 > 0:12:12- They're amongst the world's - oldest permanent buildings.

0:12:21 > 0:12:24- They were built - as community centres.

0:12:25 > 0:12:29- Places to meet, hold rituals, - and bury the dead.

0:12:34 > 0:12:37- The significance - of some megalithic tombs...

0:12:37 > 0:12:41- ..is that they suggest Wales - had an indigenous seafaring culture.

0:12:48 > 0:12:51- There is a similarity between - the layout of some Welsh tombs...

0:12:52 > 0:12:54- ..and their Irish counterparts.

0:12:55 > 0:12:58- Although no hard evidence - has survived...

0:12:58 > 0:13:02- ..it's more than likely that early - residents of Wales and Dover...

0:13:02 > 0:13:05- ..travelled back and forth - across the sea.

0:13:14 > 0:13:17- It's fair to conclude - that the huge ships...

0:13:17 > 0:13:21- ..that sail between Ireland - and Europe through Welsh ports...

0:13:21 > 0:13:25- ..are part of a sailing tradition - dating back thousands of years.

0:13:39 > 0:13:41- 888

0:13:49 > 0:13:53- Megalithic tombs are dotted - around the West Wales coastline.

0:13:53 > 0:13:56- Their presence suggests - that the early Welsh...

0:13:56 > 0:14:01- ..who lived here in 8,000 BC, - were familiar with the sea.

0:14:03 > 0:14:08- Unlike Dover, a boat from that era - has yet to be discovered in Wales.

0:14:09 > 0:14:12- To understand more - about Welsh seafaring...

0:14:12 > 0:14:15- ..we have to look - for other evidence.

0:14:21 > 0:14:23- As the locations - of the tombs demonstrate...

0:14:23 > 0:14:26- ..most of the population - lived in west Wales.

0:14:27 > 0:14:31- Towards the east, the mountainous - terrain was hard to cross.

0:14:34 > 0:14:38- The roads were primitive. - Wheeled-transport was very rare.

0:14:40 > 0:14:44- Furthermore, most of Wales - was covered in forests.

0:14:45 > 0:14:48- It was quite a feat to travel - anywhere overland.

0:14:49 > 0:14:53- The prospect of transporting goods - overland was even more daunting.

0:14:54 > 0:14:56- If it was hard - to cross land on foot...

0:14:56 > 0:15:00- ..it was almost impossible - with a heavy load.

0:15:07 > 0:15:09- But the open sea was to the west.

0:15:10 > 0:15:13- Despite the dangers - associated with sailing...

0:15:13 > 0:15:17- ..it was easier and more practical - than overland.

0:15:28 > 0:15:31- This period in our history - is known as the Bronze Age.

0:15:32 > 0:15:34- Rather than depending - on stone weapons...

0:15:35 > 0:15:37- ..the people learnt - how to use metals.

0:15:43 > 0:15:47- To understand the relationship - of the early Welsh and the sea...

0:15:47 > 0:15:50- ..we must follow the development - of these new metals.

0:15:51 > 0:15:54- An ideal place for this - is the Great Orme, Llandudno.

0:16:00 > 0:16:02- Ken Brassil took me there.

0:16:02 > 0:16:06- He's an archaeologist - who works for the National Museum.

0:16:06 > 0:16:09- Ken specialises - in the prehistoric era.

0:16:10 > 0:16:12- He's very familiar with the site.

0:16:13 > 0:16:17- Below us here, there are almost - 5 kilometres of tunnels...

0:16:17 > 0:16:22- ..reaching a depth of 100 metres - under the Orme.

0:16:25 > 0:16:31- This is the world's biggest - prehistoric underground copper mine.

0:16:35 > 0:16:42- They began to use metals in - the British Isles around 2,000 BC.

0:16:45 > 0:16:52- The mined copper was mixed - with Cornish tin to create bronze.

0:16:56 > 0:17:00- This new bronze metal was used...

0:17:00 > 0:17:04- ..to make axes, swords and so on.

0:17:10 > 0:17:13- The mine at the Great Orme - is a tourist attraction nowadays.

0:17:14 > 0:17:19- But 4,000 years ago, it would - have been a hive of activity.

0:17:21 > 0:17:23- Because of the unique geology...

0:17:23 > 0:17:29- ..it was easy to use pieces - of animal bone to mine the copper.

0:17:32 > 0:17:37- The mining resulted - in the presence of miles of tunnels.

0:17:37 > 0:17:43- Most are so narrow, children - must have carried out the work.

0:17:45 > 0:17:49- It would be very difficult - to get any candlelight here...

0:17:49 > 0:17:53- ..because of the lack of oxygen - in the tunnels.

0:17:53 > 0:17:56- Most of the work - was carried out in darkness.

0:17:59 > 0:18:02- Because this is - the north Wales coast...

0:18:03 > 0:18:07- ..the sea must have played a part, - moving the copper and tin...

0:18:08 > 0:18:11- ..and moving equipment - from community to community.

0:18:15 > 0:18:17- The sea also provided the means...

0:18:17 > 0:18:20- ..to share and spread - technological information...

0:18:20 > 0:18:22- ..such as mixing copper and tin.

0:18:26 > 0:18:30- There is no direct evidence of - Bronze Age seamanship in Llandudno.

0:18:31 > 0:18:35- But discoveries - in other parts of north Wales...

0:18:35 > 0:18:38- ..prove the existence - of an exporting industry here.

0:18:40 > 0:18:43- There are examples of shipwrecks.

0:18:43 > 0:18:46- Unfortunately, the boats - themselves remain undiscovered.

0:18:46 > 0:18:50- But their contents were found - off the Pembrokeshire coastline.

0:18:51 > 0:18:56- Archaeologists have found - a number of Bronze Age swords.

0:18:57 > 0:19:01- Their sheer numbers suggest - they're the remains of a shipwreck.

0:19:03 > 0:19:09- We believe bronze was exported - to the continent, even to France.

0:19:10 > 0:19:14- During the Bronze Age, importing - and exporting took place...

0:19:15 > 0:19:18- ..between the British Isles - and the rest of Europe.

0:19:24 > 0:19:27- The Great Orme copper mines can - be compared to the megalithic tombs.

0:19:28 > 0:19:32- Seafaring skills were crucial - to the existence of both.

0:19:33 > 0:19:38- But on their own, - they're not proof of seamanship.

0:19:39 > 0:19:43- Lawyers would describe it as - 'circumstantial evidence'.

0:19:43 > 0:19:46- But yet, - a short distance up the coast...

0:19:46 > 0:19:52- ..a site proves beyond doubt that - early sailors lived in the area.

0:20:02 > 0:20:06- Caergwrle, east of Llandudno, - is in the Wrexham area.

0:20:07 > 0:20:10- The ruins of Prince Dafydd - ap Gruffydd's castle are here.

0:20:10 > 0:20:12- He was the brother - of Llywelyn, Last Prince of Wales.

0:20:13 > 0:20:18- On the hill, there are remains - of a prehistoric settlement.

0:20:23 > 0:20:26- Although there is a fair distance - between the village and sea...

0:20:27 > 0:20:32- ..an historical discovery of early - Welsh seamanship was made here.

0:20:36 > 0:20:40- In 1823, a farmhand made a valuable - discovery whilst opening a ditch.

0:20:41 > 0:20:45- It is now - in the National Museum of Wales.

0:20:47 > 0:20:49- When the treasure first surfaced...

0:20:49 > 0:20:52- ..Victorian archaeologists - were convinced...

0:20:52 > 0:20:55- ..they'd found - an intricately crafted bowl.

0:21:00 > 0:21:03- We're certain today - that it isn't a bowl.

0:21:04 > 0:21:09- It's a model of a boat - made out of special stone - shale.

0:21:11 > 0:21:19- The oars and waves - are made out of thin gold.

0:21:22 > 0:21:26- There are circular shields - on the side of the boat.

0:21:28 > 0:21:32- The eyes seem to be looking - for stones underwater.

0:21:34 > 0:21:38- The detail suggests - this is something unique.

0:21:41 > 0:21:44- Almost as important as - the boat design is its manufacture.

0:21:45 > 0:21:49- We reckon the gold comes - from Ireland.

0:21:49 > 0:21:56- The gold has been embossed into - the decoration on the shale stone...

0:21:58 > 0:21:59- ..with tin.

0:22:00 > 0:22:06- Tin was only found - in Cornwall at this time.

0:22:07 > 0:22:14- This is of Welsh and international - significance.

0:22:20 > 0:22:23- There's a tradition - dating back centuries...

0:22:23 > 0:22:28- ..of burying valuable items - in wet earth.

0:22:30 > 0:22:36- They were thrown into lakes, - rivers, wells, or even gorse land.

0:22:37 > 0:22:44- Why would people throw away - their treasures?

0:22:49 > 0:22:55- One theory is that gold merchants, - crossing from Ireland...

0:22:56 > 0:23:01- ..had collected the gold - from Wicklow mountain streams...

0:23:02 > 0:23:03- ..south of Dublin.

0:23:05 > 0:23:09- They sailed to Anglesey - and crossed the Menai Straits...

0:23:10 > 0:23:14- ..and eventually sailed - along the coastline.

0:23:15 > 0:23:18- They passed us here in Caergwrle.

0:23:18 > 0:23:22- Perhaps there was - a major incident...

0:23:23 > 0:23:26- ..as the merchants - passed a certain place.

0:23:28 > 0:23:32- They had to keep - the local goddess happy.

0:23:33 > 0:23:38- All they could do was present their - treasure to appease their goddess.

0:23:40 > 0:23:42- That's just a theory.

0:23:42 > 0:23:46- In the prehistoric era, - nothing was recorded.

0:23:50 > 0:23:56- In prehistoric times, people worried - about keeping their gods happy.

0:23:56 > 0:24:00- The day was fast approaching when - the peoples of the British Isles...

0:24:00 > 0:24:03- ..would have to bow - before men of flesh and blood.

0:24:03 > 0:24:08- A powerful race - - who came, who saw and who conquered.

0:24:20 > 0:24:22- 888

0:24:28 > 0:24:30- Commerce uses boats - for peaceful means.

0:24:30 > 0:24:34- It was mainly responsible for the - growth of early seamanship in Wales.

0:24:38 > 0:24:41- Transporting goods - was the role of most boats.

0:24:42 > 0:24:44- This continued for many years.

0:24:46 > 0:24:48- About 2,000 years ago...

0:24:48 > 0:24:51- ..a new civilization - arrived on these islands.

0:24:51 > 0:24:54- But the Romans used the sea - for less peaceful goals.

0:24:58 > 0:25:01- The Romans first landed - on the southern shores of England.

0:25:02 > 0:25:06- Their leader was Julius Caesar, - in the year 55 BC.

0:25:07 > 0:25:11- There was no attempt to conquer the - British Isles for another century...

0:25:12 > 0:25:14- ..until the year 43 AD.

0:25:20 > 0:25:23- The Roman fleet was awesome.

0:25:23 > 0:25:28- According to some historians, - a comparable fleet...

0:25:28 > 0:25:32- ..would not sail the seas of Europe - for another 2,000 years.

0:25:34 > 0:25:36- Twenty thousand men landed - in the south of England...

0:25:37 > 0:25:39- ..conquering - the natives effortlessly.

0:25:41 > 0:25:46- The Britons' boats weren't a match - for the sophisticated Roman fleet.

0:25:47 > 0:25:51- Emperor Claudius - brought elephants with him...

0:25:52 > 0:25:54- ..when he arrived in Britain...

0:25:54 > 0:25:57- ..to witness the natives - submitting to his power.

0:26:02 > 0:26:07- The Roman grip soon tightened in - every corner of Wales and England.

0:26:09 > 0:26:12- Although the armies - normally went overland...

0:26:12 > 0:26:15- ..the sea was a crucial part - of their strategy...

0:26:16 > 0:26:19- ..in conquering and ruling - their new territory.

0:26:25 > 0:26:28- Traces of the Roman invasion - can be seen in Wales today.

0:26:29 > 0:26:33- There's an old Roman fort - to the north of Holyhead harbour.

0:26:34 > 0:26:36- According to historian - John Ellis Jones...

0:26:36 > 0:26:41- ..it's a perfect example of how - the new invaders used the sea...

0:26:42 > 0:26:43- ..to wage war.

0:26:44 > 0:26:47- As you can see, - the walls are very high.

0:26:48 > 0:26:53- They've survived since the - fourth century in good condition.

0:26:55 > 0:26:56- There's an interesting pattern.

0:26:56 > 0:26:58- There's an interesting pattern.- - Very interesting.

0:26:58 > 0:26:58- There's an interesting pattern.

0:26:59 > 0:27:02- It's quite a common stone.

0:27:02 > 0:27:06- Some have been positioned - horizontally...

0:27:06 > 0:27:11- ..and others have been placed - to create a herringbone pattern.

0:27:11 > 0:27:17- This is typical - of the late Roman era...

0:27:19 > 0:27:21- ..3rd, 4th and 5th centuries AD.

0:27:22 > 0:27:26- This is how we can date the fort.

0:27:35 > 0:27:39- The fort was designed - to maximise its location.

0:27:41 > 0:27:45- More than likely, - although the fort is here...

0:27:45 > 0:27:49- ..the walls in front of us - and behind us...

0:27:50 > 0:27:53- ..stretched outwards, - like arms, towards the sea.

0:27:54 > 0:27:56- The boats sailed - directly into the fort.

0:27:57 > 0:28:01- Within these walls...

0:28:01 > 0:28:04- ..they were in a safe haven.

0:28:06 > 0:28:12- The author Vegetius provides - a fascinating description.

0:28:14 > 0:28:20- He explains how the Romans - utilized small fleets...

0:28:21 > 0:28:23- ..not one large fleet...

0:28:23 > 0:28:26- ..and they had boats - called liburnae.

0:28:27 > 0:28:29- These were fast boats.

0:28:30 > 0:28:35- Today's equivalent - are destroyers or patrol vessels.

0:28:38 > 0:28:41- The Roman world was a dangerous one.

0:28:41 > 0:28:43- Officially, they governed...

0:28:43 > 0:28:46- ..but their settlement - was always under threat.

0:28:50 > 0:28:54- The small fleets - defended the settlement.

0:28:55 > 0:28:59- They warned the soldiers - of an approaching enemy.

0:29:02 > 0:29:05- There was uncertainty how - this was achieved in Holyhead...

0:29:06 > 0:29:11- ..until archaeologists - excavated on Holyhead Mountain.

0:29:13 > 0:29:17- A few years ago, the ruins - of a Roman tower were found.

0:29:18 > 0:29:23- From the tower, they had - a brilliant view towards Ireland.

0:29:24 > 0:29:27- They could send smoke signals...

0:29:28 > 0:29:31- ..or light fires...

0:29:31 > 0:29:38- ..or use a semaphore system - of signalling.

0:29:39 > 0:29:44- That's how the garrison was warned - of an approaching enemy.

0:29:49 > 0:29:52- Despite the Romans' sophisticated - warning system...

0:29:53 > 0:29:55- ..they weren't always successful.

0:29:56 > 0:29:59- There was no certainty - invaders could be intercepted...

0:30:00 > 0:30:04- ..before they raped, - plundered and murdered.

0:30:05 > 0:30:10- But you were aware - invaders had landed...

0:30:10 > 0:30:14- ..and sailors alerted - the Roman fleet of their presence.

0:30:18 > 0:30:22- Anglesey was a small corner - of the Roman Empire.

0:30:22 > 0:30:26- The history books - are written by the victors.

0:30:29 > 0:30:33- What we know about Wales and the sea - during the Roman age...

0:30:33 > 0:30:36- ..is the Roman version of history.

0:30:37 > 0:30:44- That's the only version we have.

0:30:44 > 0:30:49- It gives us an idea - of how they treated the sea.

0:30:49 > 0:30:53- We have a picture, - but it's a rather Roman picture.

0:30:53 > 0:30:59- There are no Welsh versions - from that time.

0:31:05 > 0:31:08- Like the Welsh, - the Romans realised...

0:31:08 > 0:31:11- ..that sailing was easier - than travelling overland.

0:31:16 > 0:31:20- Whilst the Welsh used - this knowledge for peaceful ends...

0:31:20 > 0:31:22- ..the Romans used the sea...

0:31:22 > 0:31:26- ..to tighten their grip - on their conquered lands.

0:31:27 > 0:31:30- That tactic was a key reason - for their success in Britain.

0:31:35 > 0:31:38- After the Romans left, Wales was - attacked on numerous occasions.

0:31:39 > 0:31:43- The Vikings were a particular threat - along the coastline.

0:31:43 > 0:31:47- Anglicised Welsh place names - with Viking roots...

0:31:47 > 0:31:50- ..are found in a number - of places along the coast.

0:31:52 > 0:31:55- Abertawe became Swan Sea, - or Swains Isle...

0:31:56 > 0:31:59- ..to pay homage - to King Swain Fork-Beard.

0:32:00 > 0:32:04- In the same way, Mona, or Ynys Mon, - became Anglesey.

0:32:10 > 0:32:15- But unlike the Romans, - not a single Viking fort survived.

0:32:15 > 0:32:20- There are no ruins to match - those left by the next invaders...

0:32:21 > 0:32:22- ..the Normans.

0:32:27 > 0:32:31- The Norman fort at Pembroke - is in an area known as...

0:32:32 > 0:32:34- ..'little England beyond Wales.'

0:32:36 > 0:32:40- Historian Nia Powell - traces the Normans' lineage.

0:32:41 > 0:32:45- It's interesting that - their forefathers were Vikings.

0:32:46 > 0:32:52- Vikings emigrated from the north, - and settled in northern France.

0:32:53 > 0:32:56- They formed - a dominion and territory there.

0:32:56 > 0:33:03- The old Viking seafaring tradition - was adopted by the Normans.

0:33:05 > 0:33:11- When they came from Normandy - to attack Harold in Hastings...

0:33:12 > 0:33:16- ..they came in ships, - along with their war horses.

0:33:17 > 0:33:22- The Bayeux Tapestry - has fascinating pictures of ships.

0:33:22 > 0:33:25- There are rows of shields - along the sides.

0:33:25 > 0:33:29- This is similar - to the Viking longboats.

0:33:31 > 0:33:34- After defeating Harold - in the Battle of Hastings...

0:33:34 > 0:33:37- ..the Normans settled - in south east England.

0:33:37 > 0:33:40- They began - their westerly campaign...

0:33:41 > 0:33:44- ..at a time - when Wales was a divided country.

0:33:47 > 0:33:50- Although a number of Welsh - Princedoms fell relatively easily...

0:33:51 > 0:33:54- ..many held onto their lands.

0:33:54 > 0:33:57- The sea and mountains helped them.

0:33:58 > 0:34:02- The relationship - between Wales and the sea...

0:34:03 > 0:34:05- ..was strengthened - by the Irish connection.

0:34:06 > 0:34:09- Irish sea crossings - happened regularly.

0:34:09 > 0:34:14- Rhys ap Tewdwr, - King of South Wales...

0:34:14 > 0:34:17- ..and Gruffydd ap Cynan, - King of Gwynedd...

0:34:18 > 0:34:20- ..had lived in Ireland.

0:34:21 > 0:34:25- They returned from Ireland - to claim their territory...

0:34:25 > 0:34:28- ..before the battle of Carn Mountain - in 1081.

0:34:30 > 0:34:34- Gruffydd ap Cynan - was probably born in Dublin.

0:34:34 > 0:34:37- His father was exiled to Ireland.

0:34:38 > 0:34:43- He married the daughter of Dublin's - Danish King - a Viking, therefore.

0:34:43 > 0:34:46- There was Viking blood - in Gruffydd ap Cynan.

0:34:48 > 0:34:53- I think the relationship between - the Kings of Wales...

0:34:54 > 0:34:56- ..the sea and Ireland...

0:34:56 > 0:35:01- ..explains how they could keep - the west in Welsh hands.

0:35:04 > 0:35:08- The Princes of the west held onto - their independent lands...

0:35:08 > 0:35:10- ..for 250 years.

0:35:11 > 0:35:15- The Age of the Princes ended - at the end of the 13th century.

0:35:16 > 0:35:19- To ensure the continuation - of the new order...

0:35:19 > 0:35:24- ..Edward I built a series of castles - along the Welsh coastline.

0:35:25 > 0:35:30- The castles defended - coastal towns from sea strikes.

0:35:30 > 0:35:34- The sea was a defence - against overland attacks.

0:35:38 > 0:35:41- Pembroke Castle - is a perfect example.

0:35:42 > 0:35:47- This is one of the few - Norman castles to resist attack.

0:35:47 > 0:35:53- It was a Norman stronghold.

0:35:54 > 0:35:58- They had access to supplies - from the sea.

0:36:00 > 0:36:04- There's a little dock - under the tower.

0:36:05 > 0:36:10- Ships up to 50 tonnes, no more, - could sail in from the sea.

0:36:12 > 0:36:16- Not all the Norman castles - are by the seaside.

0:36:18 > 0:36:24- But having said that, - a number of the surviving castles...

0:36:24 > 0:36:28- ..are on the coast.

0:36:32 > 0:36:34- Today, to many Welshmen...

0:36:35 > 0:36:39- ..the castles built by English kings - are a symbol of oppression.

0:36:41 > 0:36:43- But to many - who lived in their shadows...

0:36:44 > 0:36:47- ..the castles, towns and harbours - that grew around them...

0:36:48 > 0:36:50- ..offered up new opportunities.

0:36:52 > 0:36:56- But throughout history, the picture - isn't completely black and white.

0:36:58 > 0:37:02- The Normans and the English - were cruel masters.

0:37:04 > 0:37:08- But like the Romans, they were - teachers as well as governors.

0:37:10 > 0:37:14- The invaders' influence - on our seafaring culture continues.

0:37:14 > 0:37:17- Over the centuries, - they built harbours.

0:37:17 > 0:37:22- The harbours are still with us, - but they're now used by the Welsh.

0:37:31 > 0:37:33- 888

0:37:41 > 0:37:44- We've tried to understand - why people ventured to sea...

0:37:45 > 0:37:50- ..through looking at objects - - boats, tombs and castles.

0:37:51 > 0:37:53- It's futile - to look for written evidence.

0:37:55 > 0:37:59- Dependable written history - doesn't appear until much later.

0:38:00 > 0:38:02- But there is one more source.

0:38:03 > 0:38:06- When the human race - mastered language...

0:38:06 > 0:38:09- ..we told tales to one another.

0:38:19 > 0:38:22- The most famous Welsh legends - are The Mabinogion.

0:38:23 > 0:38:26- They were formally recorded - in the 13th century.

0:38:26 > 0:38:30- But they were repeated orally - many years before that.

0:38:31 > 0:38:34- Through being repeated - over the generations...

0:38:34 > 0:38:37- ..these tales - grew into magical fantasies.

0:38:44 > 0:38:46- You could argue that the legends...

0:38:46 > 0:38:50- ..are rooted in the real - experiences of the early Welsh.

0:38:51 > 0:38:55- The sea plays a key role in the tale - of Branwen, daughter of Llyr.

0:38:55 > 0:38:57- It's one of the four branches - of The Mabinogion.

0:38:58 > 0:39:01- I met Gwyn Thomas, - the poet and scholar...

0:39:02 > 0:39:05- ..who's immersed himself - in the legends.

0:39:05 > 0:39:09- The story was first written - about 1,000 years ago.

0:39:10 > 0:39:13- But it was repeated - for centuries before that.

0:39:13 > 0:39:16- They include ancient tales.

0:39:16 > 0:39:20- The story begins with Branwen's - brother, the giant, Bendigeidfran.

0:39:20 > 0:39:24- He was sitting somewhere in Harlech, - near to where we are.

0:39:25 > 0:39:30- He and his courtiers spotted - 13 ships coming towards them...

0:39:30 > 0:39:32- ..from southern Ireland.

0:39:33 > 0:39:37- They could see - the magnificent, grand ships.

0:39:38 > 0:39:40- They had silk sails.

0:39:42 > 0:39:45- He sent his men - to discover what they wanted.

0:39:46 > 0:39:50- The sea was high...

0:39:50 > 0:39:54- ..reaching the bottom of the rock - where we're standing.

0:39:54 > 0:39:59- The Irish launched the barges they - carried on their larger boats...

0:40:00 > 0:40:02- ..and sailed to shore.

0:40:03 > 0:40:06- Bendigeidfran asked them - what they wanted.

0:40:07 > 0:40:09- Matholwch, King of Ireland...

0:40:10 > 0:40:14- ..had come to ask Bendigeidfran - for his sister's hand in marriage.

0:40:16 > 0:40:19- Bendigeidfran and Matholwch - arranged the marriage.

0:40:20 > 0:40:22- The Irish received a warm welcome.

0:40:22 > 0:40:25- But Matholwch and Efnisien - didn't see eye to eye.

0:40:25 > 0:40:28- Efnisien was Bendigedifran's - half-brother.

0:40:28 > 0:40:32- Efnisien attacked the Irishmen's - horses, fatally wounding them.

0:40:34 > 0:40:38- The Irish wanted revenge.

0:40:40 > 0:40:43- Back in Ireland, Branwen - was sent to work as a maid...

0:40:44 > 0:40:45- ..in Matholwch's kitchen.

0:40:46 > 0:40:50- Once again, the sea played - a central role in the story.

0:40:51 > 0:40:55- In case the news of Branwen's - punishment reached Bendigeidfran...

0:40:56 > 0:40:58- ..in Britain...

0:40:58 > 0:41:02- ..Matholwch, King of Ireland, - prevented every ship...

0:41:02 > 0:41:05- ..every barge and coracle - from leaving Ireland.

0:41:05 > 0:41:10- The three types of boats mentioned - sailed to and from Ireland to Wales.

0:41:11 > 0:41:14- There were sails - on the larger ships.

0:41:14 > 0:41:17- They could also carry smaller boats.

0:41:18 > 0:41:26- Gruffydd ap Cynan crossed to Ireland - from Wales in a barge.

0:41:27 > 0:41:32- But there were sails of some sort - on the Irish boats.

0:41:33 > 0:41:38- The coracles were much bigger - than the ones we're accustomed to.

0:41:41 > 0:41:47- They would fish in these - 15 foot long, fragile boats.

0:41:53 > 0:41:57- More than likely, the references - to coracles and barges...

0:41:57 > 0:42:00- ..were added to The Mabinogion - at a later stage...

0:42:00 > 0:42:03- ..when the tales - were first written down.

0:42:06 > 0:42:08- The Irish coracle, the curragh...

0:42:08 > 0:42:11- ..is still used - on the Aran Islands today.

0:42:19 > 0:42:22- Here in Wales, after crossing - the beach in Harlech...

0:42:22 > 0:42:27- ..the valley we associate with - Bendigeidfran and Branwen's home...

0:42:28 > 0:42:32- ..Gwyn Thomas discussed how the sea - has moved over the centuries.

0:42:35 > 0:42:39- When Bendigeidfran and - his soldiers sailed to Ireland...

0:42:39 > 0:42:41- ..to save Branwen...

0:42:42 > 0:42:46- ..the sea was no wider - than a large river.

0:42:47 > 0:42:49- The soldiers sailed in boats.

0:42:49 > 0:42:52- Bendigeidfran walked through - the shallow water.

0:42:53 > 0:42:58- The sea later invaded this area.

0:42:59 > 0:43:02- The drowned community - of Cantre'r Gwaelod...

0:43:02 > 0:43:04- ..testified that - there was a town or city there.

0:43:04 > 0:43:10- Yes. There were three kingdoms here, - according to legend.

0:43:10 > 0:43:14- One became Cantre'r Gwaelod, - in the kingdom of Gwyddno.

0:43:15 > 0:43:20- Seithennin guarded - the doors to keep the sea out.

0:43:21 > 0:43:26- But he got drunk one night - and the sea flooded in.

0:43:29 > 0:43:33- What does that say about the Welsh, - when these stories were written?

0:43:34 > 0:43:40- I think they were very accustomed - to the sea, especially around here.

0:43:42 > 0:43:47- They could remember the sea flooding - the land.

0:43:54 > 0:43:57- As if to strengthen that belief...

0:43:57 > 0:44:01- ..at low tide, remains of an old - forest are visible on the seabed...

0:44:01 > 0:44:03- ..in Cardigan Bay.

0:44:03 > 0:44:07- This suggests there is an element - of truth in some of the tales.

0:44:11 > 0:44:15- Perhaps it's just the imagination - of the old storytellers.

0:44:16 > 0:44:19- But we know for certain that - there's a recurring connection...

0:44:19 > 0:44:22- ..between Wales and Ireland, - over thousands of years.

0:44:26 > 0:44:28- Some claim that Welsh sailors...

0:44:29 > 0:44:32- ..ventured further afield - than the Emerald Isle.

0:44:32 > 0:44:36- The most famous of these - adventurers is Madog.

0:44:38 > 0:44:44- According to legend, he was - a Prince, who lived in Anglesey.

0:44:45 > 0:44:50- He and his sailors - sailed to America.

0:44:52 > 0:44:59- If that were true, they were the - first Europeans to discover America.

0:44:59 > 0:45:02- People lived there anyway.

0:45:04 > 0:45:09- It's a very dubious story, - rooted in Tudor times.

0:45:10 > 0:45:14- The Tudors believed - Henry VII was Welsh.

0:45:14 > 0:45:18- A Welsh family sat - on the throne of Britain.

0:45:20 > 0:45:24- The Madog legend was exaggerated - for a purpose.

0:45:24 > 0:45:30- If they could claim - that Britain discovered America...

0:45:31 > 0:45:35- ..they would lay claim - to the country.

0:45:35 > 0:45:39- Madog would have been to America - before Columbus.

0:45:44 > 0:45:48- It's interesting that Madog's tale - came to the public domain...

0:45:48 > 0:45:52- ..at a time when a feeling of - national pride existed in Wales.

0:45:54 > 0:45:58- At the end of the Tudor era, - the tale was forgotten...

0:45:58 > 0:46:01- ..only to be resurrected - in the Victorian Age.

0:46:02 > 0:46:06- This is when the new industrial - Wales began to grow in confidence.

0:46:07 > 0:46:11- Welsh steel and coal - were exported all over the world.

0:46:11 > 0:46:16- The idea of a Welshman discovering - America fired the imagination again.

0:46:18 > 0:46:22- In the 19th century, - Thomas Stephens wrote an essay...

0:46:23 > 0:46:25- ..for the 1858 National Eisteddfod - at Llangollen.

0:46:28 > 0:46:33- He dismissed the legend, - accusing it of being false.

0:46:36 > 0:46:39- Although the judges said - it was the best piece of work...

0:46:40 > 0:46:46- ..he didn't get the prize - because he destroyed the legend.

0:46:50 > 0:46:53- Legends explain - our sailing history...

0:46:53 > 0:46:56- ..and help us understand - the sea itself.

0:46:57 > 0:46:59- But more than anything...

0:46:59 > 0:47:03- ..they present a vivid picture - of the early Welsh psyche.

0:47:04 > 0:47:07- We've been sailors - for many centuries...

0:47:08 > 0:47:11- ..starting with - the legend of Branwen.

0:47:11 > 0:47:16- But there were people - in Aberdaron in the early 1900s...

0:47:17 > 0:47:20- ..who had been, as children, - to Rio de Janeiro...

0:47:20 > 0:47:22- ..but who hadn't been - near Llandudno.

0:47:23 > 0:47:27- The seafaring tradition is strong - along the coastline of Wales.

0:47:30 > 0:47:32- And there's plenty - of coastline in Wales.

0:47:32 > 0:47:37- 750 miles of sea surrounds us - on three sides of our country.

0:47:41 > 0:47:44- But despite the proverb - 'familiarity breeds contempt'...

0:47:44 > 0:47:47- ..that wasn't the experience - of the Welsh.

0:47:49 > 0:47:53- There's a famous story - about the climber George Mallory.

0:47:53 > 0:47:57- People asked him what drove him - to climb Everest.

0:47:57 > 0:48:00- "Because it's there," he replied.

0:48:00 > 0:48:04- Perhaps this explains our - ancient fascination with the sea.

0:48:04 > 0:48:08- The sea is all around us, - challenging us to explore it.

0:48:19 > 0:48:22- And yet, I'm not sure - whether that's the whole story.

0:48:22 > 0:48:26- Is that how we explain - the Welsh seafaring culture?

0:48:28 > 0:48:31- Or is there - a less exciting explanation...

0:48:32 > 0:48:34- ..that's closer to the truth?

0:48:35 > 0:48:39- Were the first sailors - searching for a better life...

0:48:39 > 0:48:41- ..rather than an adventurous life?

0:48:43 > 0:48:47- As the poet once remarked, 'Few - of God's wonders were performed...

0:48:47 > 0:48:49- ..'on the impoverished - Menai Straits.'

0:49:12 > 0:49:14- S4C Subtitles by GWEAD