Porthladdoedd Pell ag Agos

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0:00:17 > 0:00:23- PORTS, FAR AND NEAR

0:00:35 > 0:00:38- From east to west, north to south...

0:00:39 > 0:00:42- ..Wales has over 700 miles - of coastline.

0:00:44 > 0:00:49- The population lived on the coast - for thousands of years.

0:00:50 > 0:00:55- Inevitably, the sea has played - a vital part in our history.

0:00:58 > 0:01:01- Today, the sea's influence - has diminished.

0:01:01 > 0:01:05- Manufacturers - use haulage contractors' lorries...

0:01:06 > 0:01:09- ..to transport goods - on roads of varying standards!

0:01:16 > 0:01:19- Holyhead harbour - is still an important link...

0:01:20 > 0:01:22- ..between Ireland and Europe.

0:01:23 > 0:01:26- But the old traditional - coastal trade...

0:01:27 > 0:01:31- ..which was so important 150 years - ago, has more or less disappeared.

0:01:38 > 0:01:42- Although the sea plays less - of a role in most of our lives...

0:01:43 > 0:01:47- ..it's still a central part - of our identity and heritage.

0:01:48 > 0:01:52- Over the centuries, the sea has - had a huge influence on Wales.

0:01:57 > 0:02:00- Places that - are now considered remote...

0:02:00 > 0:02:04- ..were once important - international trading centres.

0:02:06 > 0:02:10- The hustle and bustle has left - its mark on Wales to this day.

0:02:12 > 0:02:16- The most significant examples - are the old Gwynedd slate harbours.

0:02:23 > 0:02:26- The sea's economic influence - is visible...

0:02:26 > 0:02:29- ..in the grand houses - that the sea captains built...

0:02:29 > 0:02:33- ..after they dropped anchor, - and retired.

0:02:35 > 0:02:39- These are not the only tangible - evidence of the maritime tradition.

0:02:41 > 0:02:45- For generations, - sailors brought home gifts...

0:02:45 > 0:02:48- ..from their world-wide voyages.

0:02:50 > 0:02:53- Very few lads from coastal areas - go to sea nowadays.

0:02:54 > 0:02:59- But these old trinkets are displayed - in houses throughout Wales.

0:03:04 > 0:03:07- Auctioneers - are in a privileged position.

0:03:07 > 0:03:10- They get the pleasure - of seeing the artefacts...

0:03:17 > 0:03:21- I wanted his opinion on a nautical - antique belonging to my family...

0:03:21 > 0:03:23- ..as well as other pieces.

0:03:24 > 0:03:29- The owner insists it was made from - the timbers of the 'Royal Charter'.

0:03:31 > 0:03:33- It's a very interesting piece.

0:03:35 > 0:03:40- The desk stand - was carved out of hardwood.

0:03:40 > 0:03:44- There's space - for an ink bottle and pens.

0:03:45 > 0:03:49- It says 'Royal Charter, 1859'.

0:03:50 > 0:03:52- This piece is interesting.

0:03:52 > 0:03:54- I know of many places in Anglesey...

0:03:55 > 0:03:58- ..especially around - Moelfre and Amlwch...

0:03:58 > 0:04:04- ..where people claim artefacts were - made from 'Royal Charter' timber.

0:04:05 > 0:04:10- 'The Royal Charter' must have been - big if the stories are all true!

0:04:11 > 0:04:13- But there is a problem here.

0:04:13 > 0:04:19- You must have written confirmation, - if possible, of authenticity.

0:04:19 > 0:04:22- The claim in itself - isn't good enough.

0:04:22 > 0:04:25- You must have written proof, - if possible.

0:04:26 > 0:04:31- The fact that a story has passed - from generation to generation...

0:04:31 > 0:04:34- ..isn't good enough.

0:04:34 > 0:04:39- Some pieces are from far away. - This poor soul isn't Welsh!

0:04:40 > 0:04:44- It's an armadillo shell, - from South America.

0:04:44 > 0:04:46- Someone brought it back with him.

0:04:48 > 0:04:53- Sailors often returned - laden with goods.

0:04:53 > 0:04:57- They are souvenirs of their trip.

0:04:58 > 0:05:01- Very often, - they're relatively insignificant.

0:05:02 > 0:05:05- This is an example of the trinkets - they brought back.

0:05:07 > 0:05:09- What are these here?

0:05:10 > 0:05:12- Butterfly wings.

0:05:14 > 0:05:17- They're from South America - - again, a very simple piece.

0:05:18 > 0:05:23- A mere trinket, but it's typical - of the gifts sailors brought home.

0:05:24 > 0:05:26- It's entitled 'Curacao'.

0:05:27 > 0:05:31- If you're recounting tales - to friends or the owners...

0:05:32 > 0:05:35- ..this shows exactly - where it came from.

0:05:37 > 0:05:41- A sailor brought this jacket - from India in the 1950s.

0:05:42 > 0:05:47- Just like latter day tourists, - it's what the seamen brought back.

0:05:47 > 0:05:51- Yes. - But it's important to remember...

0:05:51 > 0:05:56- ..that souvenirs - which pre-date the 1950s...

0:05:56 > 0:06:00- ..are highly collectable.

0:06:04 > 0:06:09- If it's possible to date - an item before the 1950s....

0:06:09 > 0:06:13- ..it's more valuable - than later examples.

0:06:13 > 0:06:14- There's crockery, too.

0:06:15 > 0:06:18- There are some examples - from the Far East.

0:06:18 > 0:06:20- These are Japanese.

0:06:22 > 0:06:24- We call it 'eggshell china'.

0:06:25 > 0:06:28- Interestingly...

0:06:29 > 0:06:32- ..if you go to Anglesey...

0:06:32 > 0:06:35- ..or an area - with maritime connections...

0:06:35 > 0:06:38- ..Port Dinorwic, Borth-y-Gest, - Porthmadog...

0:06:39 > 0:06:42- ..you'll find china cabinets - with similar sets.

0:06:42 > 0:06:46- Sea captains brought them back - as gifts.

0:06:46 > 0:06:51- Cups and saucers - are neatly displayed.

0:06:52 > 0:06:54- Very often, the teapot, too.

0:06:55 > 0:06:58- But sadly, - they're not worth much today.

0:07:00 > 0:07:03- These came from a British ship.

0:07:06 > 0:07:08- It says 'Elder-Dempster Lines' - on the bottom.

0:07:08 > 0:07:12- Presumably, every passenger ship - had customized crockery.

0:07:14 > 0:07:18- Yes, and this is - of a remarkably high quality.

0:07:19 > 0:07:23- 'Aynsley' is a very famous - Stoke-on-Trent company.

0:07:24 > 0:07:27- It's interesting to see - the 'Elder-Dempster' name.

0:07:27 > 0:07:31- More than likely, the passengers, - rather than the crew, used these.

0:07:32 > 0:07:35- They're of a very high quality.

0:07:35 > 0:07:39- I wouldn't have known - that they were from a ship...

0:07:40 > 0:07:42- ..if you hadn't told me.

0:07:43 > 0:07:48- The 'Elder-Dempster' - stamp is on every piece.

0:07:48 > 0:07:49- Very interesting.

0:07:49 > 0:07:52- How much interest is there - in nautical antiques?

0:07:54 > 0:07:59- This is obviously a ship's clock.

0:08:01 > 0:08:05- It came from 'The Ebani', - another Elder-Dempster ship.

0:08:06 > 0:08:09- My father sailed on it twice - - in the 1950s and 1960s.

0:08:10 > 0:08:13- He crossed from - Liverpool and London...

0:08:13 > 0:08:16- ..to Western Africa, the Ivory - Coast, the Gold Coast and Nigeria.

0:08:17 > 0:08:21- I'm not sure how it ended up with - us. I don't ask too many questions!

0:08:21 > 0:08:25- The clock maker, - Chadburns of Liverpool...

0:08:27 > 0:08:29- ..is a very well known company.

0:08:30 > 0:08:34- It made clocks like these, - and barometers, and so on.

0:08:35 > 0:08:37- It's in very good condition.

0:08:38 > 0:08:39- And it works!

0:08:39 > 0:08:40- And it works!- - Very interesting.

0:08:41 > 0:08:44- There's a big collection - of pictures of ships.

0:08:44 > 0:08:48- They chronicle the history of ships - over the centuries.

0:08:50 > 0:08:54- Why are so many - from the 19th century?

0:08:55 > 0:08:58- This is an example - of what used to happen.

0:08:59 > 0:09:02- Ships from this country - sailed to Italy.

0:09:02 > 0:09:08- Local painters offered - to paint portraits of the ships.

0:09:10 > 0:09:13- That's how so many - of the pictures were painted...

0:09:14 > 0:09:16- ..and why - they're still in circulation.

0:09:19 > 0:09:23- Most of the souvenirs and materials - that the sailors brought back...

0:09:23 > 0:09:27- ..are a link between - the coastal towns...

0:09:27 > 0:09:29- ..and exotic international harbours.

0:09:30 > 0:09:34- Souvenir production was an industry - in itself in many busy ports.

0:09:37 > 0:09:41- But there are mementoes - that tell a more personal story...

0:09:42 > 0:09:45- ..about the relationship - between Wales and the sea.

0:09:49 > 0:09:54- A piece of furniture owned by - Iwan Edgar appears ordinary enough.

0:09:56 > 0:09:59- But the settle's history - is part of Lleyn's history.

0:10:00 > 0:10:06- It was made from the same timber - as this ship.

0:10:08 > 0:10:11- People would build ships...

0:10:12 > 0:10:17- ..and make pieces of furniture - from the ship's timber.

0:10:19 > 0:10:24- It provided a link between - the family at sea and those at home.

0:10:24 > 0:10:26- What about the ship itself?

0:10:26 > 0:10:29- What about the ship itself?- - She was built in 1856, in Nefyn.

0:10:30 > 0:10:34- Owen Gruffydd built her - for his brother, John Gruffydd.

0:10:35 > 0:10:38- She apparently sailed - for more than 25 years...

0:10:39 > 0:10:44- ..mainly transporting slate - from Porthmadog to Hamburg.

0:10:46 > 0:10:49- The ship seems to be - in Leghorn harbour, Italy.

0:10:49 > 0:10:53- But according to archive records...

0:10:53 > 0:10:55- ..they sailed to Germany, mainly.

0:10:57 > 0:11:01- This lamp is all that remains - from the ship.

0:11:02 > 0:11:06- It graced my grandmother's - mantelpiece for years.

0:11:06 > 0:11:10- I understand - it was the captain's lamp.

0:11:12 > 0:11:14- What was the connection - between your family and the ship?

0:11:15 > 0:11:18- My great-great-grandparents - owned the ship.

0:11:18 > 0:11:20- My grandmother called it 'our ship'.

0:11:21 > 0:11:24- But it hadn't been in the family - for over a century...

0:11:24 > 0:11:28- ..before I saw a painting of it - hanging on the wall.

0:11:31 > 0:11:33- The ship was built in Nefyn.

0:11:33 > 0:11:37- It was an important 19th century - Welsh seafaring village.

0:11:39 > 0:11:43- Although Lleyn was quite far - from large international harbours...

0:11:43 > 0:11:48- ..Nefyn sailors worked, lived - and communicated with people...

0:11:48 > 0:11:49- ..from all over the world.

0:11:52 > 0:11:56- English would have been a relatively - foreign language in Nefyn.

0:11:56 > 0:11:59- But its sailors mixed - with people of all nationalities.

0:11:59 > 0:12:05- The crew came from - Holland, Germany and England.

0:12:06 > 0:12:09- They must have been able - to communicate in English.

0:12:12 > 0:12:17- Other members of my family - travelled further than Germany.

0:12:18 > 0:12:21- My great-grandfather ran away to sea - at nine years of age.

0:12:22 > 0:12:25- He hid his clothes in the pig sty - and played truant from school.

0:12:26 > 0:12:28- According to my grandmother...

0:12:28 > 0:12:32- ..her father was shipwrecked three - times before he was 14-years-old.

0:12:34 > 0:12:37- The experiences - of Iwan Edgar's great-grandfather...

0:12:37 > 0:12:39- ..were not uncommon in Nefyn.

0:12:40 > 0:12:42- Nefyn is very different today.

0:12:43 > 0:12:50- The place obviously prospered in - the latter part of the 19th century.

0:12:52 > 0:12:55- Nefyn today - isn't all that prosperous.

0:12:55 > 0:12:59- But many of the buildings - date back to that period.

0:13:00 > 0:13:03- Nefyn prospered by virtue - of the slate industry...

0:13:03 > 0:13:05- ..although there were - no quarries here.

0:13:06 > 0:13:11- People built houses that were - far more grand than the norm.

0:13:13 > 0:13:16- Their mementoes showed the world - where they'd been.

0:13:23 > 0:13:26- The treasures that are seen - in so many Welsh households...

0:13:27 > 0:13:31- ..are the most common connection - between everyday life in Wales...

0:13:31 > 0:13:33- ..and the seafaring culture.

0:13:37 > 0:13:41- But reminders - of our seafaring heritage...

0:13:41 > 0:13:45- ..can be seen - in the most unexpected places.

0:13:54 > 0:13:56- 888

0:14:02 > 0:14:05- Our nautical antiques - are inanimate objects...

0:14:05 > 0:14:08- ..reminding us of our past.

0:14:09 > 0:14:15- But items brought back on Welsh - ships still live and thrive here.

0:14:15 > 0:14:21- Hedges, flowers and weeds - have taken root all around us.

0:14:22 > 0:14:26- Naturalist Goronwy Wynne explained - the connection between the sea...

0:14:27 > 0:14:30- ..and the wealth of plants - that grow in Wales.

0:14:31 > 0:14:35- They've been arriving - on these shores for many centuries.

0:14:36 > 0:14:42- We have approximately 4,500 - wild plants in this country.

0:14:43 > 0:14:46- About 60% of them are indigenous.

0:14:48 > 0:14:50- Approximately 40%...

0:14:50 > 0:14:56- ..like this one, were imported.

0:14:58 > 0:15:01- Unlike the mementoes - brought back as gifts...

0:15:02 > 0:15:06- ..the sailors didn't always - intend to return with the plants.

0:15:06 > 0:15:10- We carry seeds with us - wherever we go...

0:15:11 > 0:15:13- ..literally on our feet in the mud.

0:15:13 > 0:15:18- More often than not, - they were carried here aboard ship.

0:15:20 > 0:15:24- A cargo ship, - on its return journey...

0:15:24 > 0:15:26- ..would take onboard ballast.

0:15:27 > 0:15:31- Often, there would be seeds - amongst the ballast...

0:15:31 > 0:15:33- ..and they found their way ashore.

0:15:34 > 0:15:37- There are dozens - of examples of plants...

0:15:37 > 0:15:39- ..that arrived unintentionally.

0:15:40 > 0:15:43- But they've flourished - in their new habitat...

0:15:44 > 0:15:47- ..because that was - conducive to growth.

0:15:48 > 0:15:53- There is an extremely common one - underfoot here.

0:15:53 > 0:15:56- It's called 'pineapple weed'.

0:15:59 > 0:16:03- Some people say - it describes its scent.

0:16:03 > 0:16:05- I can't smell it myself.

0:16:06 > 0:16:11- No-one would grow this as a garden - flower. It's nothing to look at!

0:16:12 > 0:16:14- But it's everywhere!

0:16:15 > 0:16:18- Its natural habitat - was similar to that of this country.

0:16:19 > 0:16:23- Like the American grey squirrel...

0:16:24 > 0:16:26- ..it's grown wild and is a nuisance.

0:16:27 > 0:16:30- This flower has done the same thing.

0:16:31 > 0:16:37- But some of the foreign plants - were deliberately imported.

0:16:39 > 0:16:44- Sailing to the ends of the world - to find exotic plants...

0:16:44 > 0:16:46- ..is an old tradition.

0:16:48 > 0:16:50- Interest in gardening grew.

0:16:50 > 0:16:55- People craved something new, - different and innovative.

0:16:55 > 0:16:57- They wanted to keep up - with the Joneses!

0:16:58 > 0:17:03- They paid people - to find exotic plants.

0:17:07 > 0:17:09- What's the history of this flower?

0:17:09 > 0:17:14- Pretty, isn't it? - It's the Himalayan Balsam.

0:17:16 > 0:17:19- It was originally - a cultivated flower.

0:17:20 > 0:17:24- It arrived sometime in 1839.

0:17:25 > 0:17:29- The Asian plant was cultivated - for gardens and greenhouses.

0:17:30 > 0:17:35- Within 15 years, it had 'escaped' - and started growing in the wild.

0:17:36 > 0:17:39- It spread all over the country...

0:17:40 > 0:17:42- ..especially on riverbanks.

0:17:42 > 0:17:44- This is the River Clwyd at St Asaph.

0:17:46 > 0:17:50- It loves being on the riverbank. - It grows quickly in the mud.

0:17:51 > 0:17:56- Its colourful flowers - mature into fruit.

0:17:57 > 0:18:00- Touch the fruit, and it jumps.

0:18:01 > 0:18:06- The seeds are scattered - onto the river.

0:18:06 > 0:18:10- The river carries the seeds - and it spreads along the riverbanks.

0:18:19 > 0:18:23- The sea brought exotic plants - to Wales but more importantly...

0:18:23 > 0:18:26- ..it was by sea that people - travelled here from far and wide.

0:18:27 > 0:18:31- The Welsh Dragon doesn't have just - one tongue - or just one colour.

0:18:32 > 0:18:35- The Somalians arrived - in Wales by sea...

0:18:35 > 0:18:38- ..disembarking - in Cardiff's dockland.

0:18:38 > 0:18:41- Ali Yassine is one - of their proud descendants.

0:18:43 > 0:18:47- My grandfather - came to Wales in the 1950s.

0:18:48 > 0:18:50- He was a policeman in Egypt.

0:18:50 > 0:18:52- But before that, - he lived in Somalia.

0:18:53 > 0:18:58- I understand that he walked - to Egypt as a young lad.

0:18:59 > 0:19:01- That's about 3,000 miles.

0:19:04 > 0:19:07- After settling and starting - a family in Egypt...

0:19:07 > 0:19:12- ..he moved to Port Said, - where there was a British presence.

0:19:12 > 0:19:14- And he became a sailor!

0:19:15 > 0:19:17- I think he came to Liverpool.

0:19:18 > 0:19:20- He lived in Liverpool for a while.

0:19:21 > 0:19:24- I understand that racism - was rife in Liverpool.

0:19:25 > 0:19:28- All the sailors talked about - south Wales and Cardiff.

0:19:30 > 0:19:32- Hundreds arrived in Cardiff.

0:19:33 > 0:19:35- There was a substantial - community in Cardiff...

0:19:36 > 0:19:37- ..by the time Granddad arrived.

0:19:38 > 0:19:44- People from the Caribbean, sailors - from the Middle East and Somalia.

0:19:44 > 0:19:47- He felt more comfortable in Cardiff.

0:19:51 > 0:19:53- And he carried on being a sailor - after moving to Cardiff.

0:19:54 > 0:19:56- He never stopped being a sailor.

0:19:57 > 0:19:59- He was always travelling.

0:20:00 > 0:20:05- He finally went back to Egypt, - because my father was marrying.

0:20:06 > 0:20:10- He and my mother came here with - Granddad for a better education.

0:20:11 > 0:20:13- The family put down roots here.

0:20:16 > 0:20:20- They were drawn to - the multi-cultural Cardiff Docks.

0:20:24 > 0:20:30- When I grew up, we felt an affinity - with the Middle East and Somalia.

0:20:31 > 0:20:34- There were many different - cultures in the same area.

0:20:35 > 0:20:40- Yet there was no rivalry between us. - We were putting down roots here.

0:20:40 > 0:20:44- The parents wanted the children - to know where they came from.

0:20:45 > 0:20:47- I'm not sure whether - we were welcomed!

0:20:49 > 0:20:54- When I was young, we stayed - in the Docks and never left.

0:20:55 > 0:21:00- I saw the world from inside - the Docks - that was our world.

0:21:00 > 0:21:03- The outside world - was unknown territory.

0:21:05 > 0:21:09- By the 1970s - things were changing.

0:21:10 > 0:21:13- The neighbourly Cardiff Docks - were under siege.

0:21:14 > 0:21:17- We were the last family - to leave our street.

0:21:17 > 0:21:20- We used to live in a street - behind Windsor Terrace.

0:21:21 > 0:21:25- The Council began redeveloping - in the 1970s.

0:21:25 > 0:21:27- They knocked our street down.

0:21:28 > 0:21:32- I was eleven when we received - a letter from the Council...

0:21:32 > 0:21:34- ..to say they'd bought the street.

0:21:34 > 0:21:39- We were the last people to move, - because Granddad owned the house.

0:21:40 > 0:21:42- The rest were council houses.

0:21:42 > 0:21:44- My father and Granddad - refused to move...

0:21:45 > 0:21:47- ..until they could secure - a mortgage.

0:21:47 > 0:21:50- At that time, - the Council provided mortgages.

0:21:50 > 0:21:52- They refused to give - my father a mortgage...

0:21:53 > 0:21:55- ..so we stayed where we were.

0:21:55 > 0:21:58- Since then, luxury houses and flats - have been built.

0:21:58 > 0:22:01- They're beyond - the reach of the locals.

0:22:01 > 0:22:04- Those houses - are worth half a million.

0:22:04 > 0:22:08- My mother was offered a house - for 1,000. It's incredible!

0:22:11 > 0:22:13- How do you feel about the changes?

0:22:14 > 0:22:16- The Council destroyed my community.

0:22:17 > 0:22:21- We had a close-knit community, - where people knew each other.

0:22:22 > 0:22:29- We still feel the Council - doesn't want a community here.

0:22:33 > 0:22:37- No, Ali Yassine doesn't appreciate - the new, 'fashionable' Bay...

0:22:37 > 0:22:39- ..that was built in the old Docks.

0:22:40 > 0:22:43- Where some see progress, he sees - the destruction of a community.

0:22:44 > 0:22:48- When I was young, - this area was much more natural.

0:22:49 > 0:22:53- They've built hotels and flats.

0:22:54 > 0:22:58- There is no architectural cohesion.

0:22:59 > 0:23:01- I think it looks vile.

0:23:01 > 0:23:05- It's as if they appointed - twenty architects...

0:23:06 > 0:23:08- ..to chuck ideas into the pot.

0:23:13 > 0:23:17- Welsh people become sentimentally - attached to their birth places.

0:23:17 > 0:23:21- The writer D J Williams immortalised - his own area, Rhydcymerau.

0:23:22 > 0:23:26- The romantic yearning is usually - associated with the rural areas.

0:23:27 > 0:23:31- But Ali Yassine's yearning - for his area...

0:23:32 > 0:23:35- ..the part of Cardiff - that has disappeared forever...

0:23:35 > 0:23:37- ..is as genuine and real...

0:23:37 > 0:23:40- ..as D J Williams' yearning.

0:23:55 > 0:23:57- 888

0:24:02 > 0:24:05- We've already mentioned - the cultural diversity...

0:24:05 > 0:24:08- ..of people who sailed to Wales - and who settled here.

0:24:08 > 0:24:11- And of course, - the Welsh did the same thing.

0:24:13 > 0:24:17- We emigrated to America, Australia - - to several countries...

0:24:18 > 0:24:21- ..as we are reminded at - the National Eisteddfod every year.

0:24:23 > 0:24:27- But only in Patagonia - was a Welsh settlement created...

0:24:28 > 0:24:31- ..in Argentina, in 1865.

0:24:34 > 0:24:38- From time to time, the settlers' - descendants cross the seas...

0:24:38 > 0:24:41- ..to settle down - in the 'old country'.

0:24:43 > 0:24:46- That's what - Veronica Jones de Kiff did.

0:24:49 > 0:24:52- Her Welsh roots are - in Gwengraig Farm, Dolgellau.

0:24:54 > 0:24:57- My great-great-grandparents - lived here.

0:24:59 > 0:25:03- Their daughter, Elizabeth Williams, - emigrated to Patagonia.

0:25:04 > 0:25:06- She married John Elys Pugh.

0:25:07 > 0:25:12- John emigrated in 1890 to buy a farm - in Bryngwyn before they married.

0:25:12 > 0:25:17- He returned, - and they married in 1896.

0:25:18 > 0:25:22- They settled in Patagonia.

0:25:23 > 0:25:28- It was a hard voyage for many. - How was it for your family?

0:25:29 > 0:25:31- I'm not sure where they sailed from.

0:25:32 > 0:25:37- We believe they set sail - from Liverpool or Southampton.

0:25:38 > 0:25:43- It took them 28 days - to reach Buenos Aires.

0:25:43 > 0:25:49- My great-grandmother wrote home - to say the voyage was lovely.

0:25:50 > 0:25:54- There were no storms, or anything. - They were really happy.

0:25:55 > 0:25:59- There wasn't a boat to take them - to Puerto Madryn.

0:26:00 > 0:26:03- They stayed - in Buenos Aires for 15 days.

0:26:05 > 0:26:09- But she said their lodgings were - great and they enjoyed themselves.

0:26:10 > 0:26:13- They sailed from Buenos Aires - to Puerto Madryn.

0:26:14 > 0:26:17- Although it only took four days, - the weather was atrocious.

0:26:18 > 0:26:20- But they arrived safely.

0:26:21 > 0:26:24- They took a train - from Puerto Madryn to Trelew.

0:26:25 > 0:26:27- The train stopped in Trelew.

0:26:27 > 0:26:31- They rode on horseback - for 20 miles to reach the farm.

0:26:31 > 0:26:34- It was an incredibly long journey!

0:26:35 > 0:26:36- It's so different today.

0:26:37 > 0:26:41- It only takes me 15 hours by air...

0:26:41 > 0:26:44- ..and then another two hours - to reach Patagonia.

0:26:44 > 0:26:48- Door to door within a day.

0:26:49 > 0:26:52- Was the landscape very different?

0:26:53 > 0:26:58- Totally different. - We're surrounded by mountains.

0:26:59 > 0:27:04- The Gaiman is flat - - it's like a desert.

0:27:06 > 0:27:09- I'm sure it was hard initially.

0:27:10 > 0:27:14- It never rains there - - the sun always shines.

0:27:16 > 0:27:21- Are you surprised so many Welshmen - ventured so far a century ago?

0:27:22 > 0:27:25- No-one lived in Patagonia - at that time.

0:27:25 > 0:27:29- The Argentine government - sold the land cheaply.

0:27:30 > 0:27:34- They were very adventurous.

0:27:34 > 0:27:38- It was a desert - - they had to start from scratch.

0:27:38 > 0:27:44- They built the canals, cultivated - the land and kept animals.

0:27:48 > 0:27:52- They were lucky that the native - Argentine Indians were friendly.

0:27:53 > 0:27:57- They made friends, - swapped food and clothes.

0:27:58 > 0:28:02- It was an adventure - and luckily, - the natives were friendly.

0:28:06 > 0:28:09- Our interest - in Argentinean history...

0:28:09 > 0:28:13- ..revolves around - Patagonia's Welsh colony.

0:28:14 > 0:28:17- But Argentina in the 19th century...

0:28:17 > 0:28:21- ..attracted pilgrims - from all over the world.

0:28:23 > 0:28:27- Just like the sea created - multi-cultural communities...

0:28:28 > 0:28:32- ..in harbours like Cardiff, - Patagonia's new Welsh community...

0:28:32 > 0:28:35- ..played host to people - of all nationalities.

0:28:36 > 0:28:40- There are many people - from Germany and Ireland.

0:28:41 > 0:28:44- There are also - Italian and Spanish communities.

0:28:45 > 0:28:47- There's a strange mix there.

0:28:47 > 0:28:52- There isn't a single person - who is originally from Argentina.

0:28:53 > 0:28:57- I don't look like an Argentinean. - I have different blood.

0:28:58 > 0:29:01- My great-great-grandmother - on my mother's side...

0:29:02 > 0:29:07- ..came from Africa. - I have African blood.

0:29:09 > 0:29:11- Exactly a century later, - you came to Wales.

0:29:12 > 0:29:16- I didn't realize there was - such a strong link with Wales.

0:29:17 > 0:29:20- I decided to come here - to learn Welsh.

0:29:21 > 0:29:25- I knew a few words - and I could count.

0:29:25 > 0:29:30- I decided to come to Wales - to learn Welsh.

0:29:31 > 0:29:33- I also got to know my family.

0:29:34 > 0:29:37- Coming here and seeing - the house was amazing.

0:29:38 > 0:29:43- I never imagined I'd do this. - It's an incredible experience.

0:29:44 > 0:29:46- I've learnt Welsh.

0:29:47 > 0:29:50- I married a Welshman - and decided to stay!

0:29:53 > 0:29:57- By the time Veronica - returned to her Welsh roots...

0:29:57 > 0:30:00- ..the golden age - of sea voyaging was over.

0:30:02 > 0:30:05- People still sail - to Ireland or France.

0:30:05 > 0:30:09- Others enjoy luxurious holidays - aboard pleasure cruises.

0:30:09 > 0:30:13- But ships aren't the first choice - of contemporary travellers.

0:30:18 > 0:30:22- In 1952, Comet One - flew from London to Johannesburg.

0:30:24 > 0:30:28- It was the first time the general - public could travel by jet plane.

0:30:28 > 0:30:32- They could fly from one end - of the earth to the other in hours.

0:30:34 > 0:30:39- The jet was ideal for travelling - from continent to continent.

0:30:44 > 0:30:48- The maritime industries suffered in - the second part of the 20th century.

0:30:50 > 0:30:53- Hand in hand with - the decline in passenger ships...

0:30:53 > 0:30:55- ..the Merchant Navy - was also in decline.

0:30:57 > 0:31:02- By the 1970s, huge ships - transported massive loads...

0:31:02 > 0:31:04- ..using only a handful of crew.

0:31:07 > 0:31:10- The ships that brought men - from Somalia to Cardiff...

0:31:10 > 0:31:13- ..that exported slate - from Porthmadog to Australia...

0:31:14 > 0:31:15- ..belonged to a vanished age.

0:31:20 > 0:31:23- But the sea - didn't stop influencing...

0:31:24 > 0:31:26- ..the Welsh character and culture.

0:31:27 > 0:31:30- The sea attracts people - to Wales in their thousands.

0:31:33 > 0:31:36- They no longer confine themselves - to a few close-knit communities...

0:31:37 > 0:31:39- ..as they once did in Cardiff Docks.

0:31:40 > 0:31:43- People who have settled here - to enjoy the seaside...

0:31:43 > 0:31:45- ..are to be found - all over the coast.

0:31:51 > 0:31:56- Old seafaring communities - have become holiday villages.

0:31:58 > 0:32:02- They're just as dependent on - the sea as they were 150 years ago.

0:32:04 > 0:32:09- But the sea's influence on the local - community is very different.

0:32:13 > 0:32:19- Bedwyr Rees' family experienced - these changes in Moelfre, Anglesey.

0:32:20 > 0:32:22- You come from a family of sailors.

0:32:22 > 0:32:25- My grandparents - were from seafaring families.

0:32:25 > 0:32:28- Granddad came from Moelfre, - my grandmother from Dulas.

0:32:29 > 0:32:33- They couldn't have lived closer - to the sea!

0:32:34 > 0:32:36- Many of your family went to sea.

0:32:36 > 0:32:39- My Granddad's side - went on the coasters.

0:32:39 > 0:32:42- My Grandmother's family - were deep sea sailors.

0:32:43 > 0:32:44- But not your generation?

0:32:45 > 0:32:50- That is the general case - - the connection's been broken.

0:32:50 > 0:32:54- There were about 40 ship captains - here in the 1940s.

0:32:56 > 0:33:01- Only two of my generation went - to sea. That's quite a difference.

0:33:02 > 0:33:05- I'm sure all Moelfre families - have their own stories to tell.

0:33:06 > 0:33:08- Yes! We've all got our stories.

0:33:09 > 0:33:13- A favourite family story - involves a 12-year-old lad.

0:33:14 > 0:33:17- He worked on the farm behind us.

0:33:18 > 0:33:21- He was ploughing a cliff top field.

0:33:21 > 0:33:24- He miscalculated - and went too near the edge.

0:33:25 > 0:33:27- The plough fell over - the precipice...

0:33:27 > 0:33:30- ..dragging the horse with it - to its death.

0:33:30 > 0:33:35- The little boy panicked. - He waved at a ship in the bay.

0:33:35 > 0:33:39- The ship sent a boat towards him. He - went to sea without telling anyone.

0:33:40 > 0:33:42- The family assumed he was dead.

0:33:42 > 0:33:46- Bodies weren't always - recovered from the sea.

0:33:46 > 0:33:51- But the boy sailed to Australia - and was away for 18 months.

0:33:51 > 0:33:55- Before going home to his family, - or anyone else...

0:33:55 > 0:33:58- ..he knocked on the door - of the farm.

0:33:58 > 0:34:01- He'd made his money on the ship - - and he paid for the horse...

0:34:02 > 0:34:04- ..before going to see - his own family!

0:34:05 > 0:34:09- That particular field - probably had a name years ago.

0:34:09 > 0:34:13- But the names of fields - are forgotten by now.

0:34:15 > 0:34:19- That's the fate of the Welsh names - for coves and crannies, too.

0:34:20 > 0:34:25- People lived on the coast - and earned a living at sea.

0:34:26 > 0:34:30- If you work at sea, each part - of the coast must be named...

0:34:31 > 0:34:34- ..in order to discuss laying down - fishing nets, and so on.

0:34:34 > 0:34:37- There are precise names - for every point on the coast.

0:34:37 > 0:34:42- This little spot to my left - is called 'Porth Llester'.

0:34:44 > 0:34:45- 'Llester' means vessel.

0:34:45 > 0:34:50- The name features in the tale - of Branwen from The Mabinogi.

0:34:50 > 0:34:53- 'Porth Llester' literally means - 'Vessel Port'.

0:34:53 > 0:34:58- My great-grandmother used to say, - "That was a good vessel"...

0:34:58 > 0:35:00- ..when referring to a sound ship.

0:35:00 > 0:35:03- The name of the sea itself - can be seen in some names.

0:35:03 > 0:35:06- 'Trwyn Morcyn' - is on the other side of the bay.

0:35:07 > 0:35:10- Translated, - it means 'the sea before a storm'.

0:35:11 > 0:35:16- When the sea rises, it's a warning - that the weather is turning.

0:35:20 > 0:35:22- 'Traeth Moryn' is a private beach.

0:35:23 > 0:35:26- 'Moryn' is a Welsh word for wave.

0:35:27 > 0:35:30- Granddad used to say if you see - a 'moryn', you should come ashore.

0:35:31 > 0:35:33- It meant the sea could become rough.

0:35:34 > 0:35:36- What about other names - that are dear to you?

0:35:37 > 0:35:40- 'Y Glwyd' is behind me.

0:35:42 > 0:35:45- You could moor a ship - in an easterly wind.

0:35:46 > 0:35:48- Easterly winds are dangerous.

0:35:48 > 0:35:51- It's a place of shelter.

0:35:51 > 0:35:57- 'Trwyn Pen Bonc' or 'Trwyn Cripil' - were nice place names.

0:35:58 > 0:36:02- That's where we spent - almost all our summers fishing.

0:36:02 > 0:36:04- Why 'Trwyn Cripil'?

0:36:04 > 0:36:06- Why 'Trwyn Cripil'?- - I assume it derives from 'cripple'.

0:36:06 > 0:36:11- There are several splits in - the rock. It's a dangerous place!

0:36:11 > 0:36:14- It would be all too easy - to break a leg!

0:36:15 > 0:36:17- Perhaps someone - did break a leg there.

0:36:18 > 0:36:20- How much are these names used today?

0:36:21 > 0:36:25- I'm worried they're not handed - down through the generations...

0:36:25 > 0:36:27- ..or that they've become Anglicised.

0:36:28 > 0:36:31- People don't depend - on the sea any more.

0:36:31 > 0:36:35- The sea doesn't provide a living - - it's used for pleasure.

0:36:35 > 0:36:39- We no longer need the old names.

0:36:40 > 0:36:44- People aren't marrying - within the community.

0:36:44 > 0:36:47- People move away, - immigrants come in.

0:36:48 > 0:36:51- The linguistic treasures aren't - being handed down in the same way.

0:36:52 > 0:36:56- 'Trwyn Cripil' - has become 'Fisherman's Rock'.

0:36:57 > 0:37:00- 'Porth Neigl' - has become 'Old Lifeboat Beach'.

0:37:01 > 0:37:03- 'Ynys Moelfre' - has become 'Rat Island'.

0:37:04 > 0:37:06- It's very sad.

0:37:06 > 0:37:11- But some people still use - the old terms. Long may it continue.

0:37:14 > 0:37:17- Moelfre is typical - of a coastal village...

0:37:17 > 0:37:21- ..that's attracted English tourists - during the 20th century.

0:37:22 > 0:37:26- It's sadly familiar to see the local - culture being eroded by incomers.

0:37:31 > 0:37:34- But tourism in Wales, - like the rest of Britain...

0:37:34 > 0:37:37- ..has changed dramatically - in recent years.

0:37:40 > 0:37:44- Welsh people want to ensure that - the new generation of tourists...

0:37:45 > 0:37:49- ..have a better understanding - of the history and culture...

0:37:49 > 0:37:51- ..of our coastal communities.

0:37:59 > 0:38:01- 888

0:38:06 > 0:38:10- Throughout Wales, the influence - of seafaring tourism...

0:38:10 > 0:38:12- ..is at its most obvious - in Pwllheli.

0:38:13 > 0:38:17- The town's Marina - has been a contentious issue.

0:38:17 > 0:38:19- The argument rages on.

0:38:23 > 0:38:26- Experienced sailor, Richard Tudor, - was raised in Pwllheli.

0:38:27 > 0:38:31- He's witnessed the changes - in the town's character.

0:38:32 > 0:38:36- Over the past ten years, - Pwllheli has grown.

0:38:37 > 0:38:41- The boats include - small 30 foot ones...

0:38:41 > 0:38:44- ..to ones of 50 plus feet.

0:38:45 > 0:38:49- It's a lovely place. - This is my home - I love it!

0:38:50 > 0:38:53- What's this worth?

0:38:53 > 0:38:56- Unfortunately, - more of these are arriving.

0:38:56 > 0:39:01- This one's worth about 250,000. - There's a lot of money here.

0:39:03 > 0:39:06- Strangely, - the owners rarely use the boats...

0:39:06 > 0:39:11- ..in spite of their huge - investment. It doesn't make sense.

0:39:13 > 0:39:18- But once you've left the Marina - and you're out in the bay...

0:39:19 > 0:39:22- ..you can understand why - there's nothing quite like it.

0:39:23 > 0:39:26- I'm sure - it's a worthwhile investment.

0:39:26 > 0:39:28- How many local people sail by now?

0:39:29 > 0:39:34- The number of boats has increased.

0:39:35 > 0:39:37- There are a few Welsh people here.

0:39:38 > 0:39:41- I wish more of us took advantage - of what we have...

0:39:42 > 0:39:44- ..the beauty of the place...

0:39:44 > 0:39:48- ..and the pleasure - of being out on a sailing boat.

0:39:50 > 0:39:53- I've had wonderful experiences - and a great deal of pleasure.

0:39:53 > 0:39:56- I also share my experiences.

0:39:57 > 0:40:00- Do you remember - the first time you sailed?

0:40:00 > 0:40:03- Yes! - Pwllheli was very different then.

0:40:04 > 0:40:06- I was raised by the seaside.

0:40:07 > 0:40:10- I looked out at sea, - and would often say...

0:40:11 > 0:40:14- .."I'd like to go out - on a boat one day."

0:40:15 > 0:40:21- I remember my first little - 10 foot Mirror dinghy.

0:40:21 > 0:40:24- My brother and I learned - to sail and race.

0:40:25 > 0:40:29- It was fun - I used to get - my friends to come with us.

0:40:30 > 0:40:32- It was a very happy childhood.

0:40:34 > 0:40:39- Naturally enough, - the sea inspired Richard Tudor.

0:40:42 > 0:40:46- But an English hero inspired him - to venture further afield.

0:40:47 > 0:40:51- I had the idea after - reading in sailing magazines...

0:40:51 > 0:40:56- ..about Sir Francis Chicester's - single-handed...

0:40:56 > 0:41:01- ..round-the-world voyage - in the 1960s and early 1970s.

0:41:03 > 0:41:07- But I didn't do anything - about it for years.

0:41:07 > 0:41:09- The boat and the technology - had changed.

0:41:10 > 0:41:13- He sailed in a small 40 foot boat.

0:41:14 > 0:41:19- My boat was 60 foot. - There were many differences.

0:41:20 > 0:41:25- He was on his own, too. - I sailed with a crew.

0:41:26 > 0:41:28- I'm sure there's something - to be said for both methods.

0:41:30 > 0:41:32- There were times when I hated it.

0:41:34 > 0:41:37- There were also times - when I loved being out at sea...

0:41:37 > 0:41:39- ..with all its beauty.

0:41:40 > 0:41:43- But at other times, - I wanted to be somewhere else.

0:41:43 > 0:41:45- You're instructing others now.

0:41:47 > 0:41:51- Yes - my feet are firmly - on the ground, at last!

0:41:52 > 0:41:56- Travelling has come - to an end for me.

0:41:56 > 0:42:00- I'm working in a college - not far from Pwllheli.

0:42:01 > 0:42:06- We're holding vocational courses.

0:42:06 > 0:42:11- We prepare youngsters - for life at sea...

0:42:11 > 0:42:13- ..working on boats such as these.

0:42:15 > 0:42:21- I enjoy seeing the youngsters - showing an interest.

0:42:22 > 0:42:25- Hopefully, - they'll make a decent living.

0:42:28 > 0:42:32- That's the challenge that's - facing communities like Pwllheli.

0:42:32 > 0:42:37- The attitude of certain Welsh people - is still negative towards tourism.

0:42:37 > 0:42:43- We've been happy to allow outsiders - to seize the job opportunities...

0:42:43 > 0:42:45- ..that the leisure industry offers.

0:42:47 > 0:42:52- Eluned Haf's mission - is to change that attitude.

0:42:52 > 0:42:57- She promotes sustainable - tourism in the coastal areas.

0:42:59 > 0:43:03- Wales could benefit - from the experience...

0:43:03 > 0:43:07- ..of other Celtic countries.

0:43:08 > 0:43:12- In Brittany, it's customary - to instruct and educate children...

0:43:13 > 0:43:15- ..how to use boats.

0:43:16 > 0:43:19- It allows the local community - to be part of any development...

0:43:20 > 0:43:22- ..that involves water sports.

0:43:22 > 0:43:24- We should investigate this in Wales.

0:43:25 > 0:43:29- There are many joint-initiatives - involving Celtic countries.

0:43:29 > 0:43:34- There are all sorts of competitions, - including international events.

0:43:35 > 0:43:39- Youngsters are competing in all - sorts of sports - girls and boys.

0:43:41 > 0:43:45- We should see ourselves as players - on an international stage.

0:43:48 > 0:43:51- Unlike generations - of traditional visitors...

0:43:51 > 0:43:56- ..the new wave of tourists - aren't interested in sunbathing.

0:43:56 > 0:43:59- They can take advantage - of Wales' weather.

0:44:00 > 0:44:06- Once you're in the sea, you're wet! - It makes no difference if it rains.

0:44:06 > 0:44:12- The wind helps us - to sail and kite-surf.

0:44:14 > 0:44:19- It gives us a chance - to develop niche markets...

0:44:19 > 0:44:22- ..that people elsewhere - are unable to develop.

0:44:23 > 0:44:27- We need to take advantage of the - climate, weather and environment.

0:44:31 > 0:44:36- A priority is to attract - more Welsh people to enjoy the sea.

0:44:38 > 0:44:41- Wales is one of our main markets!

0:44:41 > 0:44:45- Research shows - that it's local people...

0:44:45 > 0:44:49- ..who make the most - of the facilities.

0:44:49 > 0:44:54- In the summer, more people - arrive from English cities...

0:44:55 > 0:44:57- ..and from Ireland - and even Scotland.

0:44:57 > 0:45:00- British people come here - to use our facilities.

0:45:00 > 0:45:04- But more importantly, the local - people don't want to miss out.

0:45:05 > 0:45:09- People want a different way of life.

0:45:09 > 0:45:14- Like me, they want to live in the - country, but not far from the city.

0:45:14 > 0:45:18- It's easy to go surfing - on a mild summer's evening!

0:45:20 > 0:45:27- People have regarded water sports - as something for the rich.

0:45:30 > 0:45:32- This isn't true any more.

0:45:32 > 0:45:35- People like us - have taken up water sports.

0:45:35 > 0:45:37- We're Welsh, we know our beaches.

0:45:38 > 0:45:41- We want to tell people, - "Come here to try them.

0:45:41 > 0:45:45- "We can compete with beaches - and coastlines world-wide."

0:45:49 > 0:45:52- Hopefully, the present generation - of sports-orientated tourists...

0:45:52 > 0:45:54- ..will provide work opportunities.

0:45:54 > 0:45:58- This will give employment to - those living in the coastal areas.

0:45:59 > 0:46:04- 60-75% claim to be beginners.

0:46:06 > 0:46:11- Within five years, - perhaps they'll be more proficient.

0:46:12 > 0:46:15- They can encourage - more people to take part.

0:46:15 > 0:46:18- They might even have - children of their own.

0:46:19 > 0:46:24- Statistics prove there's a great - interest and it's increasing.

0:46:25 > 0:46:28- Its potential - to the Welsh economy is huge.

0:46:28 > 0:46:34- Wales's share of the British - tourist market is only 3%.

0:46:34 > 0:46:38- But what we've got to offer - is massive.

0:46:39 > 0:46:42- The recent growth shows - what is possible.

0:46:43 > 0:46:45- More people are taking an interest.

0:46:45 > 0:46:51- It's also a way of keeping fit - - and it doesn't cost the earth.

0:46:53 > 0:46:57- There's a shift in attitude which - should greatly boost the economy.

0:47:03 > 0:47:06- Our relationship with the sea - has evolved over the centuries.

0:47:07 > 0:47:09- In a mountainous country - like Wales...

0:47:09 > 0:47:13- ..sea travel was once - the most practical means of travel.

0:47:14 > 0:47:17- The primitive boats - evolved into ships and ferries.

0:47:17 > 0:47:21- The sea could connect Wales - to the rest of the world.

0:47:22 > 0:47:26- As the industrial Wales became - an important economic force...

0:47:27 > 0:47:30- ..our relationship - with the world was strengthened.

0:47:30 > 0:47:33- The sea brought - different cultures to Wales.

0:47:33 > 0:47:37- The Irish, Italians - and the Somalians from Africa.

0:47:41 > 0:47:45- Tourism has replaced - the coal and steel industries...

0:47:45 > 0:47:47- ..as well as the large harbours.

0:47:48 > 0:47:52- Tourism - is Wales' most important industry.

0:47:53 > 0:47:57- How we use the sea - emphasises the changes.

0:47:58 > 0:48:02- Today, the Welsh coastline - is one big playing field.

0:48:08 > 0:48:12- Tourism has had a major influence - on coastal industries.

0:48:14 > 0:48:19- Most of the people who've settled - here first visited Wales on holiday.

0:48:22 > 0:48:26- It's foolish to deny that tourism - doesn't Anglicize areas.

0:48:27 > 0:48:31- But today, we can take advantage - of the leisure activities...

0:48:32 > 0:48:34- ..that are available - all along the coast.

0:48:37 > 0:48:41- The old seafaring tradition of Wales - is ancient and honourable.

0:48:42 > 0:48:46- We have a special empathy - with the sea.

0:48:48 > 0:48:50- It's part of our make up.

0:49:12 > 0:49:14- S4C Subtitles by GWEAD