0:00:00 > 0:00:00- Subtitles
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:00:25 > 0:00:30- When Edward I commissioned - the great architect...
0:00:30 > 0:00:35- ..Master James of St George, to - design the castle in Caernarfon...
0:00:35 > 0:00:38- ..his motives weren't - merely practical ones.
0:00:38 > 0:00:41- He was also making a statement.
0:00:41 > 0:00:44- He built Caernarfon Castle...
0:00:44 > 0:00:49- ..in the wake of his devastating - and fateful victory over the Welsh.
0:00:49 > 0:00:52- The building was part - of a wider process...
0:00:52 > 0:00:56- ..the subjugation - of Llywelyn's Welsh principality...
0:00:57 > 0:01:00- ..the annihilation - of Welsh independence...
0:01:00 > 0:01:02- ..to remind his new vassals...
0:01:02 > 0:01:07- ..that now, they were part of - England's empire once and for all.
0:01:08 > 0:01:12- In other words, - to rub our noses in the defeat.
0:01:14 > 0:01:18- In summer, Caernarfon - throngs with tourists...
0:01:18 > 0:01:22- ..who come to see the castle's - superb architecture...
0:01:22 > 0:01:25- ..and its striking site - on the Menai Strait.
0:01:26 > 0:01:28- But the car parks - of Welsh castles...
0:01:29 > 0:01:33- ..such as Dolbadarn, Dolwyddelan - and Dolforwyn, are often empty...
0:01:33 > 0:01:35- ..even in midsummer.
0:01:35 > 0:01:38- It's as if the Welsh - castles' history...
0:01:38 > 0:01:42- ..has totally fallen off - the touristic radar.
0:01:45 > 0:01:47- It's not really surprising.
0:01:47 > 0:01:53- Apart from the fact they're maybe - less striking architecturally...
0:01:54 > 0:01:59- ..history is always - written by the conqueror.
0:02:03 > 0:02:05- But let's forget castles for now.
0:02:05 > 0:02:09- I want to draw your attention - to other indigenous centres...
0:02:10 > 0:02:14- ..that are even more obscure - and hidden than the Welsh castles.
0:02:14 > 0:02:18- These institutions - had a central role...
0:02:18 > 0:02:22- ..in the government and society - of medieval Wales.
0:02:22 > 0:02:24- These were the Llysoedd, the courts.
0:02:26 > 0:02:30- To understand - the significance of the Llys...
0:02:30 > 0:02:35- ..it's important to explain - how society was administered.
0:02:35 > 0:02:40- The Welsh princedoms were divided - into administrative areas...
0:02:40 > 0:02:45- ..the Cantrefi, which were - divided into Cymydau, commotes.
0:02:45 > 0:02:49- There was a Llys, a court, - in every commote...
0:02:49 > 0:02:53- ..with buildings like barns, - stables, a smithy...
0:02:54 > 0:02:56- ..and the great hall at the centre.
0:02:56 > 0:03:01- The royal residence - was also important.
0:03:01 > 0:03:05- The prince stayed there - when he visited to hold court.
0:03:05 > 0:03:09- The Welsh court in the Middle - Ages moved constantly...
0:03:10 > 0:03:12- ..from commote to commote.
0:03:13 > 0:03:18- It was quite a hands-on - form of government.
0:03:20 > 0:03:25- There isn't much archaeological - evidence of these courts.
0:03:25 > 0:03:29- But in 1992, the remains - of Llys Rhosyr were found.
0:03:30 > 0:03:34- This court was the heart - of the Menai Commote in Anglesey.
0:03:34 > 0:03:39- It's the only site of its kind that - has been excavated to this extent.
0:03:39 > 0:03:43- Neil Johnstone, - Heritage Manager of Menter Mon...
0:03:43 > 0:03:47- ..is the archaeologist - who discovered the remains.
0:03:48 > 0:03:50- Were they royal courts...
0:03:50 > 0:03:54- ..or courts of a local leader - that the prince used?
0:03:54 > 0:03:58- There was a court - for the prince in every commote.
0:03:58 > 0:04:02- They collected taxes and also ate - their way through the kingdom!
0:04:03 > 0:04:05- Every court had land.
0:04:05 > 0:04:09- It was called Tir Bwrdd here. - It produced food for the court.
0:04:09 > 0:04:14- People looked after - the land and farmed it...
0:04:14 > 0:04:19- ..and looked after the buildings, - ready for the prince's visit.
0:04:22 > 0:04:26- We're in a hall. - Is it the main hall?
0:04:26 > 0:04:30- We can't tell. We've only dug - a quarter of the site thoroughly.
0:04:31 > 0:04:34- There are still remains - under that field.
0:04:35 > 0:04:39- At one end of the building, - there would be a bench...
0:04:39 > 0:04:44- ..where the prince and VIPs sat, - looking down the hall...
0:04:44 > 0:04:47- ..as they do in Oxford colleges now.
0:04:51 > 0:04:53- Is this the chamber?
0:04:53 > 0:04:57- This design is often - found in other places.
0:04:57 > 0:05:01- There is a hall, - then another chamber block...
0:05:02 > 0:05:04- ..the private quarters.
0:05:05 > 0:05:08- As well as the court's - main buildings...
0:05:08 > 0:05:12- ..at Rhosyr, there are - remains of an external wall...
0:05:12 > 0:05:15- ..that Neil says is significant.
0:05:15 > 0:05:16- It's status, and a statement.
0:05:16 > 0:05:21- "I'm important. I have walls around - the site. This is no ordinary farm."
0:05:22 > 0:05:26- Does that mean that many - coins have been found here?
0:05:27 > 0:05:31- Yes, quite a few pennies - have been found in the dig.
0:05:31 > 0:05:35- Other finds help us - to interpret the site too.
0:05:35 > 0:05:40- Door locks and latches - made of iron, and pottery too.
0:05:41 > 0:05:43- I wonder if there's more here.
0:05:43 > 0:05:46- I'd love it if we could - open more of the site.
0:05:46 > 0:05:51- There are more treasures here that - would help us understand the Llys.
0:05:53 > 0:05:56- The courts varied in importance.
0:05:56 > 0:06:01- Documentary evidence strongly - suggests that Aberffraw's court...
0:06:02 > 0:06:04- ..on Anglesey's western coast...
0:06:04 > 0:06:09- ..was the main court of the - princes of Gwynedd for centuries.
0:06:09 > 0:06:15- But there is debate about another - site that claims this title.
0:06:15 > 0:06:20- There is a fierce divide - in opinion amongst the cognoscenti.
0:06:21 > 0:06:26- Abergwyngregyn's historical - name was Aber Garth Celyn.
0:06:26 > 0:06:29- Its court was vitally important...
0:06:29 > 0:06:33- ..in the last years of Llywelyn - ap Gruffudd, Llywelyn the Last.
0:06:34 > 0:06:36- The difference in opinion...
0:06:36 > 0:06:41- ..is about the exact site - of the court's main building.
0:06:45 > 0:06:47- This is Pen y Bryn.
0:06:48 > 0:06:52- The present owners are convinced - the main building was here...
0:06:52 > 0:06:57- ..the great hall of the court - of Arllechwedd Uchaf.
0:06:58 > 0:07:00- Hoping to close the debate...
0:07:01 > 0:07:04- ..the owners commissioned - an archaeologist last year...
0:07:04 > 0:07:07- ..to make a detailed report.
0:07:07 > 0:07:11- They've given me permission - to see what the report discovered.
0:07:12 > 0:07:14- I have a torch to help me!
0:07:16 > 0:07:19- Pen y Bryn is - an Elizabethan building.
0:07:19 > 0:07:24- But it is claimed that there - are older remains underground.
0:07:24 > 0:07:27- I'm in the cellar.
0:07:27 > 0:07:28- Spooky.
0:07:32 > 0:07:37- These, made of carved sandstone, - were found in the gardens.
0:07:38 > 0:07:40- They date back to the Middle Ages.
0:07:45 > 0:07:49- This window, - according to the report...
0:07:49 > 0:07:53- ..has some medieval - elements in its design.
0:07:59 > 0:08:04- The pattern above some windows, - called voussoir...
0:08:04 > 0:08:08- ..has medieval features, - according to the report.
0:08:12 > 0:08:14- That's one side of the debate.
0:08:14 > 0:08:18- To hear the other side, - we'll go down to the village.
0:08:18 > 0:08:20- I'll leave the van. It's not far.
0:08:23 > 0:08:27- In 1994, the Gwynedd Archaeological - Trust found the remains...
0:08:27 > 0:08:32- ..of a medieval building - in the village, which was excavated.
0:08:32 > 0:08:38- The Trust claimed that this, not - Pen y Bryn, was the probable site...
0:08:38 > 0:08:42- ..of the main building - of the court of Arllechwedd Uchaf.
0:08:42 > 0:08:46- This was because - they found the remains...
0:08:46 > 0:08:49- ..of a sizeable winged hall...
0:08:49 > 0:08:52- ..very similar to a great hall.
0:08:55 > 0:08:57- The site has now been refilled.
0:08:58 > 0:09:03- But one counterargument is that - it's lower than Pen y Bryn....
0:09:03 > 0:09:08- ..and unlikely to have been chosen - for the court's main buildings.
0:09:09 > 0:09:13- In any case, it's a very fiery - debate. I mustn't take sides.
0:09:13 > 0:09:18- I'll put up links on the weekly - blog so you can read more...
0:09:18 > 0:09:20- ..and make up your own minds.
0:09:25 > 0:09:30- Whatever the truth is, Aber - Garth Celyn played a vital role...
0:09:31 > 0:09:35- ..in the final, tragic, years - of Llywelyn ap Gruffudd.
0:09:35 > 0:09:40- To further explain is Professor - Huw Pryce of Bangor University...
0:09:40 > 0:09:43- ..an expert on this period.
0:09:43 > 0:09:48- There is great debate about the - site of Aber Garth Celyn's Court.
0:09:48 > 0:09:54- But Garth Celyn is mentioned in one - of the most important documents...
0:09:54 > 0:09:56- ..in medieval Wales.
0:09:56 > 0:10:01- Garth Celyn was the place where a - very important letter was written...
0:10:01 > 0:10:05- ..from Llywelyn and his council - to Archbishop Peckham...
0:10:06 > 0:10:08- ..a month before Llywelyn - was eventually killed.
0:10:09 > 0:10:11- Can you tell us about the letter?
0:10:11 > 0:10:16- It's a comparatively short letter - from Llywelyn to the Archbishop...
0:10:16 > 0:10:18- ..thanking him for his peace offers.
0:10:18 > 0:10:23- He noted their inadequacy, - and that he couldn't accept them.
0:10:23 > 0:10:27- They were dishonourable and - would destroy him and his people.
0:10:28 > 0:10:33- He says he prefers to make - suggestions for further discussion.
0:10:34 > 0:10:38- It shows how Llywelyn used - the concept of the Welsh nation...
0:10:38 > 0:10:41- ..as a way to justify his position.
0:10:41 > 0:10:46- He also says the people of Gwynedd - in particular identified with him.
0:10:46 > 0:10:51- They certainly would refuse - to be governed by a foreign king.
0:10:52 > 0:10:57- This is the last letter - Llywelyn wrote to Peckham.
0:10:57 > 0:10:59- He died a few weeks later.
0:10:59 > 0:11:03- I think that intensifies - the significance...
0:11:03 > 0:11:05- ..of this defiant declaration.
0:11:05 > 0:11:08- In a way, it's very surprising...
0:11:08 > 0:11:12- ..considering the military - pressure on him at the time.
0:11:13 > 0:11:18- Edward I and his forces were - on his doorstep when he wrote this.
0:11:18 > 0:11:22- He knew that things were bad, but - he was ready to stand to the end.
0:11:23 > 0:11:25- Whatever you say about the man...
0:11:25 > 0:11:27- ..he could be very stubborn.
0:11:28 > 0:11:29- Yes.
0:11:29 > 0:11:34- Some might have said, "I'll retire - to England and take 1,000 a year."
0:11:34 > 0:11:37- As a constitutional expression...
0:11:37 > 0:11:40- ..of nationalism - and national identity...
0:11:41 > 0:11:44- ..isn't this document - of vital importance...
0:11:44 > 0:11:46- ..to our identity as a nation?
0:11:46 > 0:11:52- It's certainly important and helps - us to understand Llywelyn's Wales.
0:11:52 > 0:11:55- And yes, it might also - interest people today too.
0:11:56 > 0:12:01- Later, I look for the traces - of more of the courts of Gwynedd...
0:12:01 > 0:12:03- ..one near my childhood home.
0:12:03 > 0:12:04- .
0:12:09 > 0:12:09- Subtitles
0:12:09 > 0:12:11- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:12:15 > 0:12:19- I'm looking for the lost courts - of the princes of Gwynedd.
0:12:19 > 0:12:24- The journey has taken me - to some very interesting places.
0:12:25 > 0:12:30- The remains of Llys Dinorwig - are in Brynrefail, near Llanberis.
0:12:30 > 0:12:34- Keen archaeologist - Rhys Mwyn has come to meet me.
0:12:34 > 0:12:35- How are you?
0:12:35 > 0:12:36- How are you?- - Fine. How are you?
0:12:37 > 0:12:42- I've heard that some of - the courts' remains aren't obvious.
0:12:42 > 0:12:43- But this one is almost invisible!
0:12:43 > 0:12:44- But this one is almost invisible!- - It is.
0:12:44 > 0:12:49- I suggest we look - at the map to see what we have.
0:12:49 > 0:12:53- There are probably - two distinct periods here.
0:12:53 > 0:12:57- There's a defensive enclosure, - like a small hill fort...
0:12:57 > 0:13:00- ..dating back - to Celtic or Roman times.
0:13:01 > 0:13:05- Within the enclosure, - about 1,000 years later...
0:13:05 > 0:13:07- ..there are medieval remains.
0:13:07 > 0:13:13- I suggest, if you're game, - that we go to look at these remains.
0:13:13 > 0:13:14- What, into those brambles?
0:13:14 > 0:13:15- What, into those brambles?- - Yes.
0:13:15 > 0:13:17- OK. Away we go!
0:13:23 > 0:13:24- Are we on top of the wall?
0:13:24 > 0:13:25- Are we on top of the wall?- - Yes.
0:13:25 > 0:13:29- We go down to the ditch.
0:13:29 > 0:13:31- It's like a bank and ditch.
0:13:31 > 0:13:32- It's like a bank and ditch.- - Exactly.
0:13:32 > 0:13:35- When we come up here...
0:13:37 > 0:13:40- ..we see the internal wall.
0:13:40 > 0:13:45- It's like a small hill fort, - or an old fortified farm.
0:13:45 > 0:13:51- That's what it probably was - originally. The site was reused.
0:13:51 > 0:13:53- And rebuilt as a defence.
0:13:53 > 0:13:54- And rebuilt as a defence.- - Yes, that's possible.
0:13:55 > 0:13:58- You'd have to dig here to find out.
0:14:01 > 0:14:06- In the field next door, - there are much clearer remains.
0:14:06 > 0:14:11- The visitors to the caravan park - weren't the first to come here.
0:14:11 > 0:14:14- This is a rather interesting book.
0:14:14 > 0:14:18- Thomas Pennant says, "I visited - the remains of Llys Dinorwig.
0:14:18 > 0:14:22- "A house, said to have - been one of the palaces...
0:14:22 > 0:14:25- "..of Prince Llywelyn ap Gruffudd."
0:14:25 > 0:14:29- That's Llywelyn the Last.
0:14:29 > 0:14:35- The first record of this site - is in the 16th century, by Leland.
0:14:36 > 0:14:41- He mentions the link - with Sir Gruffydd Llwyd...
0:14:41 > 0:14:43- ..of Tregarnedd, Anglesey.
0:14:44 > 0:14:48- He was the man - who gave Edward I the news...
0:14:48 > 0:14:53- ..that his son had been born - in Caernarfon Castle, in 1284.
0:14:53 > 0:14:58- One can imagine that Edward - was happy to hear the good news.
0:14:58 > 0:15:00- This land was for Gruffydd Llwyd.
0:15:00 > 0:15:03- That's what he did, apparently.
0:15:03 > 0:15:04- Didn't he give him the land?
0:15:04 > 0:15:06- Didn't he give him the land?- - That's the story.
0:15:09 > 0:15:13- These are the holes - where the floor cross-beams went.
0:15:14 > 0:15:16- Those are original.
0:15:16 > 0:15:18- So it's an ancient wall.
0:15:18 > 0:15:23- But looking up at those slates, - they're definitely not original.
0:15:23 > 0:15:29- It's a problem to date this. - It was rebuilt, using old stones.
0:15:30 > 0:15:34- It's possible that this wall - was in Gruffydd Llwyd's hall.
0:15:34 > 0:15:38- That is an accepted fact, - or at least the site.
0:15:38 > 0:15:41- Maybe we have - to be content with that.
0:15:43 > 0:15:46- There are many - uncertainties about this site.
0:15:46 > 0:15:51- It's become a very common - theme on this journey.
0:15:51 > 0:15:55- This is the centre. - The wall is here.
0:15:55 > 0:16:00- So part of the court - must be under the caravan park.
0:16:00 > 0:16:06- I wonder if the visitors know this - was the site of a royal Welsh court.
0:16:06 > 0:16:11- There's a good chance that 100% - of the people here don't know.
0:16:12 > 0:16:16- It's sad that we in Wales - don't know about these sites either.
0:16:16 > 0:16:20- We should look - at folk literature...
0:16:20 > 0:16:22- ..and the names of fields and farms.
0:16:22 > 0:16:27- They offer many clues. For - example, this farm is called Llys.
0:16:27 > 0:16:33- Wouldn't this place be ideal for the - Lord of Snowdon to build his court?
0:16:33 > 0:16:36- We're in the right - place, definitely.
0:16:36 > 0:16:40- You can't compare this - with Llys Rhosyr.
0:16:40 > 0:16:43- The sites are totally different.
0:16:43 > 0:16:45- But they're part of the same story.
0:16:47 > 0:16:49- Despite Edward I's attempts...
0:16:49 > 0:16:54- ..to wipe the courts of the princes - of Gwynedd off the map...
0:16:55 > 0:16:59- ..it seems that the traces - of many of them have survived.
0:16:59 > 0:17:05- One of the courts is only a stone's - throw from my family home.
0:17:05 > 0:17:08- This is the site of Castell Prysor.
0:17:10 > 0:17:14- North Wales was divided between - the sons of Owain Gwynedd...
0:17:14 > 0:17:16- ..grandfather of Llywelyn the Great.
0:17:16 > 0:17:20- Cynan received - Ardudwy and Meirionnydd.
0:17:21 > 0:17:24- It's possible that - Gruffudd, Cynan's son...
0:17:25 > 0:17:28- ..saw the need to build - a castle here in Cwm Prysor.
0:17:29 > 0:17:34- It's difficult to date, but it - incorporates landscape features...
0:17:34 > 0:17:38- ..reminding historians - of late 12th century castles...
0:17:38 > 0:17:41- ..like Deudraeth and Carn Fadryn...
0:17:41 > 0:17:45- ..allegedly built - by the sons of Owain Gwynedd.
0:17:45 > 0:17:49- It was a motte and bailey castle, - using the rock as the motte.
0:17:49 > 0:17:52- There are traces of stone walls...
0:17:52 > 0:17:55- ..or stone steps, - winding to its summit...
0:17:55 > 0:18:00- ..where there are remains - of a wooden or stone building.
0:18:05 > 0:18:10- In 1998, the renowned archaeologist - Martin de Lewandowicz came here...
0:18:10 > 0:18:15- ..to make a geophysical survey - of the site's main features.
0:18:15 > 0:18:17- He wasn't disappointed.
0:18:19 > 0:18:24- There are traces of a great hall - here and other buildings...
0:18:24 > 0:18:29- ..corresponding to those found - in Rhosyr and Abergwyngregyn.
0:18:29 > 0:18:31- De Lewandowicz strongly suggests...
0:18:32 > 0:18:35- ..that this was one - of Llywelyn the Great's courts.
0:18:35 > 0:18:39- The traces of the great hall's - foundations are clear.
0:18:40 > 0:18:44- The small building nearby - was probably the prince's chamber.
0:18:44 > 0:18:49- There are traces of other buildings, - perhaps the barn and smithy.
0:18:49 > 0:18:56- Martin de Lewandowicz only made - a geophys survey of the main site.
0:18:56 > 0:18:59- There's so much more he wants to do.
0:18:59 > 0:19:05- There are certainly traces of a road - and bridge over the River Prysor...
0:19:05 > 0:19:10- ..and a road going towards - Trawsfynydd and then on to Harlech.
0:19:13 > 0:19:17- One fact attesting - to the status of Castell Prysor...
0:19:17 > 0:19:21- ..is a letter, - written here in 1284...
0:19:21 > 0:19:25- ..by no less - a personage than Edward I.
0:19:26 > 0:19:31- So what was Edward Longshanks - doing here in my valley?
0:19:31 > 0:19:37- Maybe the answer can be found in - that direction, in Harlech Castle.
0:19:39 > 0:19:43- Like Caernarfon Castle, - Harlech Castle was much larger...
0:19:43 > 0:19:47- ..than was needed - to sustain a military presence.
0:19:48 > 0:19:49- It had a similar purpose...
0:19:50 > 0:19:54- ..to complete the iron ring - of castles around Gwynedd...
0:19:54 > 0:19:57- ..and to remind - the Welsh of their place.
0:19:58 > 0:20:00- When building began in May 1283...
0:20:01 > 0:20:03- ..35 stonemasons worked here.
0:20:03 > 0:20:08- By 1286, when building - was at its most intense...
0:20:08 > 0:20:10- ..there were 227 stonemasons.
0:20:10 > 0:20:13- When building a castle...
0:20:13 > 0:20:18- ..stones were usually - taken from local quarries...
0:20:18 > 0:20:21- ..to be worked - on site by the stonemasons.
0:20:22 > 0:20:24- But imagine this scenario.
0:20:25 > 0:20:29- One of the stonemasons - goes to the clerk of works...
0:20:29 > 0:20:31- ..maybe Master James of St George...
0:20:31 > 0:20:36- ..saying, "Why don't we steal stones - from the Welsh castles and courts?
0:20:37 > 0:20:40- "After all, they won't - be using them again."!
0:20:41 > 0:20:46- We know this, because - archaeological evidence has shown...
0:20:46 > 0:20:52- ..that stones from Welsh courts were - used to build some English castles.
0:20:52 > 0:20:55- Archaeologists know this...
0:20:55 > 0:21:01- ..because traces of the mortar - used in Welsh courts and castles...
0:21:01 > 0:21:04- ..was found in the walls - of the English castles.
0:21:05 > 0:21:07- But what about Harlech?
0:21:07 > 0:21:12- There are two claims, - neither of which has been proven.
0:21:12 > 0:21:17- First, that stones from - Llys Prysor are in these walls.
0:21:17 > 0:21:22- The symbolism of destroying - the court of his greatest enemy...
0:21:22 > 0:21:24- ..to build his own castle...
0:21:24 > 0:21:28- ..would certainly appeal - to a man like Edward Longshanks.
0:21:29 > 0:21:32- Secondly, some claim - that Harlech Castle...
0:21:32 > 0:21:36- ..was built on the foundations - of an earlier building...
0:21:36 > 0:21:39- ..and a Welsh castle to boot.
0:21:42 > 0:21:44- If you look up there...
0:21:44 > 0:21:48- ..you can see two - different types of stones...
0:21:48 > 0:21:51- ..or two different - types of construction.
0:21:51 > 0:21:56- Of course, that doesn't show - where the stones come from.
0:21:57 > 0:22:01- Whatever the truth is, - it's possible we'll never know.
0:22:01 > 0:22:07- I'll never know if Edward was - in Cwm Prysor, stealing stones.
0:22:18 > 0:22:24- Names like Caer Collwyn, Prysor, - Dinorwig, Garth Celyn and Rhosyr...
0:22:24 > 0:22:29- ..tell us that we have lost - something very important.
0:22:29 > 0:22:33- It's easy to blame - Edward's imperialist policy.
0:22:33 > 0:22:37- We have a right to do so, - because it happened.
0:22:37 > 0:22:43- But should we also - look a little closer to home?
0:22:43 > 0:22:48- We as a nation have allowed - these places to slip into obscurity.
0:22:48 > 0:22:53- What Rhosyr shows us is that - the Welsh courts and castles...
0:22:54 > 0:22:56- ..can be resurrected...
0:22:56 > 0:23:00- ..to claim their rightful place - in our national consciousness...
0:23:00 > 0:23:07- ..and ensure that future generations - won't forget this vital period...
0:23:08 > 0:23:10- ..in our history.
0:23:27 > 0:23:29- S4C Subtitles by Gwead
0:23:29 > 0:23:30- .