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0:00:02 > 0:00:07- Adventurous Welsh people have - explored the world for centuries.
0:00:07 > 0:00:11- Many have chronicled their stories - in words, pictures and maps.
0:00:15 > 0:00:21- I'm researching their testimony - and following in their footsteps...
0:00:21 > 0:00:25- ..to some of the world's - most interesting places.
0:00:28 > 0:00:30- They explored remote areas...
0:00:31 > 0:00:33- ..without knowing - who or what they'd encounter.
0:00:34 > 0:00:37- They saw stunning scenery - and met memorable people...
0:00:37 > 0:00:41- ..each one venturing - in different ways...
0:00:41 > 0:00:46- ..by challenging dangers - and the prejudices of the time.
0:00:46 > 0:00:48- Each one has a story to tell.
0:00:48 > 0:00:54- First, I'll follow a diplomat who - was a keen photographer and climber.
0:00:55 > 0:00:59- I'm heading to Bolivia where he was - caught up in a bloody revolution.
0:01:11 > 0:01:14- The first reason for coming here - was the realisation...
0:01:15 > 0:01:18- ..that a man from Ceredigion - was a prominent diplomat...
0:01:18 > 0:01:22- ..in numerous countries - in Central and South America.
0:01:22 > 0:01:26- He ended his career as Britain's - first Ambassador to Bolivia...
0:01:27 > 0:01:29- ..working in the capital city - La Paz.
0:01:30 > 0:01:34- I also learnt that he had written - books about his experiences.
0:01:35 > 0:01:39- Those books were filled with - striking photographs he had taken.
0:01:39 > 0:01:42- When T Ifor Rees - lived in La Paz in the 1940s...
0:01:43 > 0:01:47- ..it was a very different city - to the one you see today.
0:01:47 > 0:01:50- There were no - modern, luxurious buildings.
0:01:50 > 0:01:54- These slopes were bare until - the homes of the poorest people...
0:01:54 > 0:01:56- ..were built upon them.
0:01:56 > 0:01:59- All that existed - was the centre and a new district...
0:01:59 > 0:02:01- ..where the Embassy was housed.
0:02:02 > 0:02:06- Finally, Ifor Rees lived here - during troubled times.
0:02:06 > 0:02:11- Bolivia was on the threshold between - the old and the modern world.
0:02:14 > 0:02:18- The country's changed significantly, - while remaining the same.
0:02:18 > 0:02:20- From the Amazon to the Andes...
0:02:20 > 0:02:24- ..from the tropics - to snow capped mountains...
0:02:24 > 0:02:26- ..this is a country of extremities.
0:02:27 > 0:02:31- Here is one extremity - - La Paz is the world highest capital.
0:02:31 > 0:02:34- It's almost 12,000 feet - above sea level.
0:02:35 > 0:02:38- The air is thin - and oxygen is scarce.
0:02:38 > 0:02:43- Beyond La Paz is the Altiplano, - the flat plains of the Andes.
0:02:43 > 0:02:46- The mountains capture the eyes.
0:02:48 > 0:02:51- Before exploring the city - and the country...
0:02:51 > 0:02:56- ..I'm visiting Illimani, one of - Bolivia's most sacred mountains...
0:02:56 > 0:03:00- ..which gave its name and photo - to Ifor Rees's second book.
0:03:00 > 0:03:04- The mountain seems to be keeping - its eye on La Paz and the area.
0:03:07 > 0:03:12- Illimani was one of the first things - that Ifor Rees noticed in 1945.
0:03:12 > 0:03:16- At the time, he was - the British Consul to Bolivia.
0:03:17 > 0:03:21- What struck me first - was all the indigenous people.
0:03:22 > 0:03:24- Of all South America's - major cities...
0:03:24 > 0:03:28- ..the concentration of - indigenous people is greater here.
0:03:28 > 0:03:32- In Bolivia, they make up - two-thirds of the population.
0:03:32 > 0:03:35- One of them - is the country's President.
0:03:36 > 0:03:40- He has granted recognition - to 36 native languages.
0:03:40 > 0:03:43- The two most spoken, - Quechua and Aymara...
0:03:44 > 0:03:48- ..are each first languages - to more than two million people.
0:04:00 > 0:04:03- Ifor Rees was enchanted - by the city and its people.
0:04:03 > 0:04:05- This is clear from his photographs.
0:04:06 > 0:04:09- He took a photo - of almost everything he saw.
0:04:13 > 0:04:15- One of the ideas I had - coming here...
0:04:16 > 0:04:18- ..was to find - the exact vantage points...
0:04:18 > 0:04:20- ..from where Rees took his photos.
0:04:21 > 0:04:23- He had one of La Paz Cathedral.
0:04:23 > 0:04:27- It was taken from here, the San - Francisco Monastery bell tower.
0:04:28 > 0:04:34- Today, many buildings - lie between us and the church.
0:04:34 > 0:04:37- I won't manage to take - the exact photo.
0:04:45 > 0:04:48- There are more buildings - and more people.
0:04:48 > 0:04:53- This scene captures the city's - character where two worlds collide.
0:04:54 > 0:04:59- The traffic can endanger lives - if you don't know the rules.
0:04:59 > 0:05:02- There's poverty and social problems.
0:05:02 > 0:05:06- This is epitomized - in the guise of these zebras.
0:05:06 > 0:05:09- They're young people - who have been convicted...
0:05:09 > 0:05:12- ..but have been given - a second chance...
0:05:12 > 0:05:16- ..by being employed - as traffic controllers.
0:05:17 > 0:05:22- Results have been mixed - but the zebras put on a great show.
0:05:33 > 0:05:37- I visited a quieter place to - learn more about Ifor Rees's work.
0:05:38 > 0:05:41- He was a Consul - and Ambassador to Bolivia.
0:05:41 > 0:05:47- I'm meeting Gomez Montenegro, former - Bolivian Ambassador to Britain.
0:05:47 > 0:05:51- Welcome. It is a traditional - Bolivian club.
0:05:53 > 0:05:57- At the La Union Club, knowing - or being related to someone...
0:05:57 > 0:05:59- ..is essential to gain entry.
0:06:00 > 0:06:02- In Ifor Rees's day...
0:06:02 > 0:06:05- ..this was the most important - social centre...
0:06:06 > 0:06:09- ..for diplomats, - politicians and money men
0:06:10 > 0:06:13- This was the social centre - of La Paz...
0:06:13 > 0:06:16- ..of the very, very exclusive club.
0:06:16 > 0:06:19- What is the role of a diplomat - in a foreign country?
0:06:20 > 0:06:25- You are first the eyes, the ears and - even the smell of your government.
0:06:26 > 0:06:29- But what do diplomats discuss - in places like this?
0:06:31 > 0:06:33- Gossip!
0:06:34 > 0:06:39- Usually, you cross information, - you know...
0:06:39 > 0:06:43- ..about things, - especially the political situation.
0:06:45 > 0:06:49- Some of Ifor Rees's photos - show formal parties and dinners.
0:06:52 > 0:06:57- He was responsible for organising - many and was a guest at others.
0:06:57 > 0:07:01- Were these occasions part - of his work or the social life?
0:07:02 > 0:07:06- The cocktail parties, the formal - dinners are tools of the trade.
0:07:06 > 0:07:10- You have to be there, - it's where you get information...
0:07:10 > 0:07:12- ..the real information.
0:07:12 > 0:07:17- Understanding that background was - part of Leusa Fflur's research...
0:07:17 > 0:07:19- ..when she wrote - her PhD essay on Ifor Rees.
0:07:20 > 0:07:23- How were you introduced - to Ifor Rees?
0:07:23 > 0:07:26- I happened upon his books - by chance...
0:07:26 > 0:07:30- ..while researching travel books - in the Welsh language.
0:07:30 > 0:07:34- I fell in love - with the contents of these volumes.
0:07:35 > 0:07:38- They're full of colourful photos, - some in black and white...
0:07:39 > 0:07:43- ..on volcanoes - and indigenous people.
0:07:44 > 0:07:47- Ifor Rees's travel journals - are a record of his life...
0:07:48 > 0:07:51- ..working in France, Venezuela, - Nicaragua, Spain...
0:07:51 > 0:07:54- ..Mexico, Cuba, Italy - and finally, Bolivia.
0:07:54 > 0:07:57- When Ifor Rees moved to Bolivia...
0:07:57 > 0:08:01- ..he took his 23-year-old daughter, - Morfudd, with him.
0:08:02 > 0:08:05- She assumed the role - of the Ambassador's wife.
0:08:07 > 0:08:10- The family - had travelled extensively with Ifor.
0:08:10 > 0:08:14- When Ifor moved to Bolivia, - his son needed special care.
0:08:14 > 0:08:18- Elizabeth Rees and three - of their children stayed in Wales.
0:08:18 > 0:08:20- Morfudd moved to La Paz.
0:08:22 > 0:08:27- Morfudd now lives in the old family - home in Bow Street, Aberystwyth.
0:08:29 > 0:08:31- Hello, how are you?
0:08:36 > 0:08:41- She's surrounded by thousands - and thousands of photographs...
0:08:41 > 0:08:43- ..of her father's travels.
0:08:43 > 0:08:47- She still remembers the parties - described by Senor Montenegro.
0:08:48 > 0:08:52- There were a lot - of cocktail parties at the time.
0:08:52 > 0:08:59- Every Embassy - would host cocktail parties.
0:09:00 > 0:09:02- Different countries.
0:09:03 > 0:09:06- We were invited to them all.
0:09:07 > 0:09:11- What was your role when a party - was held in the British Embassy?
0:09:15 > 0:09:17- I'd welcome the guests.
0:09:17 > 0:09:21- Did you like that role? - Did you like the parties?
0:09:21 > 0:09:26- I can't say - I was born for that role!
0:09:27 > 0:09:32- Hostess with the mostest - isn't my favourite occupation.
0:09:36 > 0:09:40- Over 60 years later, - and a world apart...
0:09:40 > 0:09:43- ..Morfudd isn't sure - where they lived in La Paz...
0:09:44 > 0:09:47- ..but her memories and the photos - gave me an idea of the area.
0:09:57 > 0:10:01- There are at least two photos - of the main street, El Prado.
0:10:01 > 0:10:04- It remains the main street - to this day.
0:10:04 > 0:10:08- Both photos have been taken - from different angles.
0:10:08 > 0:10:12- We think that one was taken - from the British Embassy.
0:10:12 > 0:10:15- The city has changed dramatically - since then.
0:10:16 > 0:10:20- The buildings have changed, - their numbers have changed...
0:10:20 > 0:10:23- ..and the original building - has been demolished.
0:10:24 > 0:10:27- The current British Embassy - have no answers.
0:10:27 > 0:10:30- Senor Montenegro - has a childhood memory...
0:10:30 > 0:10:32- ..of the British presence - being near here.
0:10:33 > 0:10:36- Ifor Rees most definitely worked - in this area...
0:10:37 > 0:10:40- ..and here he witnessed - dramatic events after the war.
0:10:44 > 0:10:47- I think Ifor Rees's time - in central and South America...
0:10:48 > 0:10:53- ..was a troubled time - in terms of the period's politics.
0:10:53 > 0:10:59- There was great political upheaval - during his final period in Bolivia.
0:11:04 > 0:11:06- Like many - South American countries...
0:11:06 > 0:11:09- ..Bolivia has swung - between left and right...
0:11:09 > 0:11:12- ..military rule and democracy.
0:11:12 > 0:11:16- The swinging of the pendulum - had often resulted in bloodshed.
0:11:16 > 0:11:19- Ifor Rees and Morfudd - arrived in 1944.
0:11:19 > 0:11:23- Within two years, - the situation was serious.
0:11:23 > 0:11:28- They were there when the country's - President was assassinated.
0:11:28 > 0:11:33- This statue commemorates the - most dramatic event of Rees's stay.
0:11:33 > 0:11:38- It's Gualberto Villarroel, - the assassinated president.
0:11:38 > 0:11:40- Ifor Rees knew him well.
0:11:40 > 0:11:43- As President, - he had begun the process...
0:11:43 > 0:11:48- ..of transferring power and wealth - to the poor, indigenous people.
0:11:48 > 0:11:51- In July 1946, - after months of upheaval...
0:11:51 > 0:11:55- ..his enemies stormed the palace, - captured the President...
0:11:55 > 0:11:59- ..assassinated him and threw his - body from the balcony to the street.
0:11:59 > 0:12:03- Another group grabbed his body - and hung it from a lamp post...
0:12:04 > 0:12:06- ..as a warning to all who passed.
0:12:06 > 0:12:10- Today, the stone - at the foot of the statue...
0:12:10 > 0:12:13- ..suggests that he was - a martyr to his people.
0:12:15 > 0:12:17- Here is the inscription.
0:12:17 > 0:12:20- "I am no enemy of the rich - but I'm a friend of the poor.
0:12:20 > 0:12:22- "I wish to see freedom - for the proletariat.
0:12:23 > 0:12:25- "I'm willing to die for the cause."
0:12:25 > 0:12:29- Villarroel began the process - of giving common people a voice...
0:12:30 > 0:12:31- ..and died as a result.
0:12:31 > 0:12:35- Did you feel in danger at all, - during this time?
0:12:35 > 0:12:37- We didn't know what was happening.
0:12:41 > 0:12:47- Well, I wasn't used - to situations like that.
0:12:49 > 0:12:52- Ifor Rees and Morfudd went - to console Villarroel's family...
0:12:52 > 0:12:55- ..following those tragic events.
0:12:55 > 0:13:00- They were good friends through - their political relationships.
0:13:02 > 0:13:05- According to Morfudd, - consoling the family...
0:13:05 > 0:13:09- ..was one of the most difficult - things she has ever done.
0:13:15 > 0:13:19- It can be argued that Evo Morales, - the current President...
0:13:19 > 0:13:21- ..is Villarroel's successor.
0:13:21 > 0:13:24- Some adore him, - others are his enemies.
0:13:24 > 0:13:29- International companies are wary of - him, the USA oppose him completely.
0:13:29 > 0:13:33- Just like every other President - in Bolivia's history...
0:13:33 > 0:13:35- ..he is accused of corruption.
0:13:35 > 0:13:35- .
0:13:38 > 0:13:38- Subtitles
0:13:38 > 0:13:40- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:13:40 > 0:13:44- Since the days of Ifor Rees - in Bolivia in the 1940s...
0:13:45 > 0:13:49- ..La Paz has grown dramatically - and is home to 900,000.
0:13:50 > 0:13:53- Another, larger city - has grown above it...
0:13:54 > 0:13:56- ..the new city of El Alto.
0:13:57 > 0:14:02- Local photographer Patricio Cook - and I visited its market...
0:14:02 > 0:14:06- ..to savour this hotchpotch location - where city and country meet.
0:14:08 > 0:14:12- If there's a photo that shows how - things have changed, this is it.
0:14:12 > 0:14:15- Ifor Rees took a photo - of the railway.
0:14:16 > 0:14:20- He was standing further away - and looking in that direction.
0:14:20 > 0:14:24- A little over 60 years ago, - there was nothing between him...
0:14:25 > 0:14:29- ..and La Paz and the Illimani - and Mururata mountains.
0:14:29 > 0:14:31- Today, El Alto is here.
0:14:31 > 0:14:34- 1.5m people, - larger than La Paz itself.
0:14:35 > 0:14:38- I'll try and take the photo - but it will be very different.
0:14:49 > 0:14:53- Spanish influence has been evident - here for the past 400 years...
0:14:54 > 0:14:59- ..but the people of Aymara - have lived here for 2,000 years.
0:15:00 > 0:15:05- Along with other indigenous people, - they are the campesinos - commoners.
0:15:06 > 0:15:09- Their battle for power drives - much of Bolivia's modern history.
0:15:12 > 0:15:16- The campesinos flow - from the country to El Alto...
0:15:17 > 0:15:20- ..recreating their - social patterns here...
0:15:20 > 0:15:25- ..wearing their traditional - clothes and speaking Aymara.
0:15:25 > 0:15:27- They migrate from the open lands...
0:15:27 > 0:15:30- ..and the harsh existence - of the Altiplano.
0:15:30 > 0:15:34- I asked Ali Chambi, - a stallholder and farmer...
0:15:34 > 0:15:36- ..if life was better in El Alto.
0:15:38 > 0:15:41- Thank goodness, everything is good. - We have everything.
0:15:44 > 0:15:46- Thank God, or Evo.
0:15:48 > 0:15:51- Thank goodness, - but everything has changed.
0:15:52 > 0:15:54- There's money, thanks to him.
0:15:59 > 0:16:02- God being praised, - thanks to Evo Morales's help.
0:16:02 > 0:16:06- He transferred large sections - of the mining and oil industry...
0:16:07 > 0:16:10- ..from the large corporations - to the government.
0:16:10 > 0:16:13- It was another step in a process...
0:16:13 > 0:16:17- ..that started during - Villarroel and Ifor Rees's time.
0:16:23 > 0:16:26- If their lives are modern - in many ways...
0:16:26 > 0:16:30- ..the old traditions remain - for many Aymarans.
0:16:30 > 0:16:34- Ifor Rees witnessed this - as we explored the country.
0:16:34 > 0:16:37- As I leave La Paz, - I witness the same.
0:16:43 > 0:16:45- I'm in a sacred place.
0:16:45 > 0:16:48- The highest places - on any road are important.
0:16:49 > 0:16:53- I'm at the highest point between - La Paz and Oruro, a nearby city.
0:16:53 > 0:16:55- I'm here to meet a shaman.
0:17:04 > 0:17:05- Dylan.
0:17:05 > 0:17:08- Victor belongs to the Aymara tribe.
0:17:08 > 0:17:12- He performs blessings - and sacrificial rituals.
0:17:12 > 0:17:14- I had no idea what to expect.
0:17:27 > 0:17:29- You need to break it.
0:17:32 > 0:17:34- There's a way of doing this.
0:17:47 > 0:17:52- The nut I broke was black - - Victor sensed trouble in my life.
0:17:52 > 0:17:55- He asked if I'd been in an accident.
0:18:00 > 0:18:03- An accident in an aeroplane or car.
0:18:03 > 0:18:07- A good guess when speaking - to a man from the West...
0:18:07 > 0:18:09- ..in the 21st century.
0:18:15 > 0:18:18- The mesa, - the display on the small tray...
0:18:18 > 0:18:22- ..is created as a sacrifice - to the gods.
0:18:45 > 0:18:48- I've just been cleansed and blessed - by the shaman, Victor.
0:18:49 > 0:18:52- I can't say I feel any different...
0:18:52 > 0:18:56- ..but these rituals are important - to the Aymara.
0:18:56 > 0:19:00- Soon, this place will be packed - with people like me...
0:19:00 > 0:19:02- ..who want to be blessed.
0:19:03 > 0:19:06- August is the beginning - of the growing season.
0:19:06 > 0:19:10- Everyone wants the blessing - of Mother Nature - Pachamama.
0:19:10 > 0:19:13- They will witness - far more than I did.
0:19:13 > 0:19:17- They will sacrifice livestock - - the llama.
0:19:17 > 0:19:21- They will spread the blood - over cars and lories to bless them.
0:19:21 > 0:19:25- They will bury the carcasses - to gain Pachamama's blessing.
0:19:26 > 0:19:30- It's just a small sign of how the - old pagan rituals still matter here.
0:19:31 > 0:19:36- As I travel further from the city, - the landscape becomes more sparse.
0:19:36 > 0:19:40- Under Morales, transport links - have improved in places.
0:19:41 > 0:19:44- More land is back - in the hands of the campesinos.
0:19:44 > 0:19:47- Communities are controlled - in the old, traditional ways.
0:19:48 > 0:19:51- Morales was the first - South American President...
0:19:51 > 0:19:54- ..who was part - of the indigenous tribe.
0:19:54 > 0:19:59- Ifor Rees travelled to rural areas - to see the land and meet the people.
0:19:59 > 0:20:03- In contrast to the traditional - portrayal of a foreign diplomat...
0:20:03 > 0:20:07- ..he had a keen interest in the - languages, cultures and way of life.
0:20:07 > 0:20:14- He researched the languages, history - and traditions of the countries...
0:20:14 > 0:20:16- ..he visited.
0:20:16 > 0:20:19- I think he spoke five languages.
0:20:19 > 0:20:22- He was fluent in French, - Italian and Spanish.
0:20:22 > 0:20:26- He'd also dabbled in some - of the minority languages.
0:20:26 > 0:20:32- His travel journals are full of - stories of him visiting communities.
0:20:32 > 0:20:36- He had an interest - in their clothes and traditions.
0:20:36 > 0:20:42- He empathised greatly - with the minority groups.
0:20:43 > 0:20:47- That may have come - from the fact that he was Welsh.
0:20:47 > 0:20:51- He empathised - with nations under oppression...
0:20:51 > 0:20:54- ..in these large countries.
0:20:54 > 0:20:58- Your father showed a great interest - in the indigenous people.
0:20:59 > 0:21:00- Oh, yes.
0:21:00 > 0:21:02- He spoke Spanish fluently.
0:21:02 > 0:21:04- Some of the English...
0:21:06 > 0:21:11- ..they didn't bother and didn't try - to learn the language.
0:21:12 > 0:21:15- Morfudd was also - a fluent Spanish speaker.
0:21:15 > 0:21:20- She witnessed her father - meeting a cross-section of people...
0:21:20 > 0:21:23- ..not only the dignitaries.
0:21:23 > 0:21:26- He had a good working relationship - with them.
0:21:27 > 0:21:31- Her daughters, Gwenan and Hilary can - see in Ifor Rees's photographs...
0:21:31 > 0:21:33- ..his ability to get to know people.
0:21:33 > 0:21:38- With people in different - countries, there's a warmth.
0:21:38 > 0:21:42- They were comfortable - having their photo taken.
0:21:42 > 0:21:45- That shows what kind of man he was.
0:21:45 > 0:21:49- I saw some earlier - from a market in Peru or somewhere.
0:21:49 > 0:21:53- It was a photograph of a woman - feeding a baby.
0:21:53 > 0:21:57- You don't usually see - photos like that.
0:21:58 > 0:22:00- Especially in those days.
0:22:02 > 0:22:05- I don't think many people - owned cameras.
0:22:05 > 0:22:10- Tell me about your father and his - camera - did he take it everywhere?
0:22:10 > 0:22:15- Everywhere. I can remember him - taking two cameras.
0:22:16 > 0:22:19- One with colour film - and one with black and white.
0:22:20 > 0:22:22- Black and white!
0:22:27 > 0:22:29- They were black and white - in those days!
0:22:40 > 0:22:45- One of Ifor Rees's favourite places - was Bolivia's border with Peru.
0:22:45 > 0:22:50- He took countless photos and Morfudd - insisted that I visit the area.
0:22:55 > 0:23:01- Lake Titicaca, one of those magical - places you dream of visiting.
0:23:01 > 0:23:04- The world's - highest expanse of water.
0:23:05 > 0:23:08- Bolivia on one side, - Peru on the other.
0:23:08 > 0:23:10- A vast expanse of water...
0:23:10 > 0:23:13- ..covering an area - half the size of Wales.
0:23:19 > 0:23:21- Ifor Rees enjoyed his time here.
0:23:22 > 0:23:25- He took some of his most memorable - photographs here.
0:23:26 > 0:23:30- Of the people building - balsa boats from the bulrushes.
0:23:30 > 0:23:33- Photographs of them - rowing the boats.
0:23:34 > 0:23:38- I want to recreate a modern version - of one of the best.
0:24:00 > 0:24:03- Bolivia is a huge country.
0:24:03 > 0:24:07- In terms of land mass, - it's in the world's top 30.
0:24:07 > 0:24:11- A million square kilometres, - 50 times larger than Wales...
0:24:11 > 0:24:16- ..but only ten million people live - here compared to our three million.
0:24:16 > 0:24:19- Bolivia was part - of the Inca empire...
0:24:20 > 0:24:24- ..and until around 200 years ago, - it was under Spanish rule.
0:24:24 > 0:24:29- The next conquerors were the - large international corporations.
0:24:33 > 0:24:37- Coming from rural Wales, - it was natural for Ifor Rees...
0:24:37 > 0:24:40- ..to take an interest in rural life.
0:24:40 > 0:24:44- He'd meet local people and watch - them farming and preparing food.
0:24:44 > 0:24:49- He wrote about the grain quinoa, - a potato called occa...
0:24:50 > 0:24:53- ..and chuno, - freeze-dried mashed potato.
0:24:53 > 0:24:56- He also showed an interest - in the animals.
0:24:56 > 0:24:59- He took numerous photos, - and in particular...
0:25:00 > 0:25:03- ..the king of the animals - in the Andes, the llama.
0:25:09 > 0:25:13- Ifor Rees's knowledge - of the countries he visited...
0:25:13 > 0:25:17- ..was more wide-ranging - than that of other travel writers.
0:25:18 > 0:25:24- He was almost an adopted member - of the indigenous tribes he visited.
0:25:44 > 0:25:46- As you would expect - from a Welshman...
0:25:46 > 0:25:49- ..there are many religious buildings - in his photos.
0:25:49 > 0:25:53- He believed that Christianity - was a good influence on Bolivians.
0:25:57 > 0:26:01- For more than 400 years, - since the Spaniards first arrived...
0:26:02 > 0:26:05- ..the Catholic Church - has been a major influence.
0:26:06 > 0:26:10- Its beliefs have been combined - with local traditions.
0:26:10 > 0:26:13- Ifor Rees had noticed this too.
0:26:13 > 0:26:17- There is one place more than - any other that highlights this.
0:26:17 > 0:26:22- The church of Curahuara de Carangas, - the Sistine Chapel of the Andes.
0:26:31 > 0:26:35- The murals were painted in the early - years of the Spanish occupation...
0:26:35 > 0:26:39- ..by local artists under - the instruction of the priests.
0:26:39 > 0:26:43- The aim was to teach people - through the stories of the Bible.
0:26:44 > 0:26:47- Some Aymaran symbols - can also be seen in the murals.
0:26:54 > 0:26:58- Today, a military camp - is situated next to the church.
0:26:58 > 0:27:02- Soldiers and religion - two - factors in the country's history.
0:27:14 > 0:27:14- .
0:27:19 > 0:27:19- Subtitles
0:27:19 > 0:27:21- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:27:34 > 0:27:36- When Ifor Rees was in Bolivia...
0:27:37 > 0:27:41- ..one of his duties was safeguarding - Britain's economic welfare.
0:27:41 > 0:27:45- The West were interested - in the country's wealth.
0:27:45 > 0:27:48- Tin, silver and lead - was Bolivia's wealth.
0:27:48 > 0:27:53- Ifor Rees had knowledge of mines - such as this, Mina Pulacayo...
0:27:53 > 0:27:55- ..over 300 miles from La Paz.
0:27:56 > 0:28:01- Like the other mines, this was run - by three wealthy owners...
0:28:01 > 0:28:03- ..the Bolivian tin barons.
0:28:08 > 0:28:11- Foreign countries - also held an interest...
0:28:11 > 0:28:15- ..and the wealth - flowed out of Bolivia.
0:28:15 > 0:28:19- There were regular disputes - between workers and owners.
0:28:22 > 0:28:24- And the latest dispute?
0:28:24 > 0:28:29- Morales has incensed the West by - nationalising the large industries.
0:28:31 > 0:28:35- Since the Spanish occupation, - and even before then...
0:28:36 > 0:28:39- ..Bolivia's wealth has been built - on precious metals.
0:28:39 > 0:28:42- Foreigners invested - and took advantage.
0:28:42 > 0:28:46- At one time, - 5,000 miners worked here...
0:28:46 > 0:28:50- ..producing tin, silver and lead - in extreme conditions.
0:28:50 > 0:28:54- 25,000 people - lived in this barren area.
0:28:54 > 0:28:58- The mine owners - practically ran the country...
0:28:58 > 0:29:01- ..when Ifor Rees worked here - as a diplomat.
0:29:04 > 0:29:09- The tin barons were part of the - nation's troubles in the 1940s...
0:29:09 > 0:29:13- ..opposing the left-wing leader - Villarroel...
0:29:13 > 0:29:15- ..and being threatened by him.
0:29:16 > 0:29:20- At one time, Ifor Rees - found himself amidst the upheaval.
0:29:21 > 0:29:25- One day, one of the tin barons, - Victor Aramayo...
0:29:25 > 0:29:27- ..knocked on Ifor Rees's door.
0:29:28 > 0:29:32- He asked for shelter - in the Rees household.
0:29:33 > 0:29:35- Your father helped him.
0:29:35 > 0:29:38- Yes, we provided shelter - in the Embassy.
0:29:39 > 0:29:43- That night, the secret police - visited the tin baron's house...
0:29:43 > 0:29:45- ..and destroyed it.
0:29:45 > 0:29:51- Without a doubt, Ifor Rees - saved Aramayo's life that day.
0:29:51 > 0:29:55- With strong economic links between - Britain and the tin barons...
0:29:55 > 0:30:00- ..defending them was an obvious - step for the King's representative.
0:30:00 > 0:30:04- Today, the precious metals aren't - as precious as they once were...
0:30:04 > 0:30:07- ..as the gas industry - has taken its place.
0:30:07 > 0:30:12- The same questions arise again - who - invests, who owns the resources...
0:30:13 > 0:30:14- ..who takes the wealth?
0:30:31 > 0:30:37- Half an hour from Pulacayo is one - of the world's greatest wonders...
0:30:37 > 0:30:39- ..Salar de Uyuni.
0:30:39 > 0:30:44- This is no ordinary lake, - and the surface isn't made of ice.
0:30:44 > 0:30:48- It's salt. This is the world's - largest salt lake.
0:31:11 > 0:31:15- 11,000 square kilometres of salt - - an area half the size of Wales.
0:31:16 > 0:31:20- They mine it from the surface - - there's water underneath.
0:31:20 > 0:31:22- It grows a little every year.
0:31:22 > 0:31:27- Until now, only people from a - neighbouring village can mine it...
0:31:27 > 0:31:31- ..in the traditional way, - men and women alike.
0:31:32 > 0:31:34- These are extreme conditions.
0:31:34 > 0:31:37- I'm forced to wear sunglasses.
0:31:37 > 0:31:40- Locals wear nothing - to defend their eyes.
0:31:40 > 0:31:45- They've overcome the challenge - of every commercial company...
0:31:45 > 0:31:47- ..to take their livelihood.
0:31:50 > 0:31:54- Almost 20,000 tonnes of salt - are harvested every year.
0:31:54 > 0:31:56- It's all done by hand.
0:31:58 > 0:32:01- There's also lithium in the lake...
0:32:01 > 0:32:05- ..a precious metal - used in batteries and aeroplanes.
0:32:05 > 0:32:10- A natural wonder and traditional - methods come under pressure...
0:32:10 > 0:32:12- ..as demand for it increases.
0:32:18 > 0:32:22- Cars can drive across the salt lake, - but local knowledge is needed.
0:32:23 > 0:32:25- The edge of the lake is soft.
0:32:25 > 0:32:30- It is only safe to exit the lake in - some places without fear of sinking.
0:32:30 > 0:32:35- There are no roads. Local drivers - use the mountain shapes as guides.
0:32:46 > 0:32:50- We crossed the lake to visit - the village of Jirira...
0:32:50 > 0:32:53- ..at the foot of the Tunupa volcano.
0:32:53 > 0:32:57- The village is home to - the producers of the quinoa grain.
0:33:04 > 0:33:07- One of the country's - most profitable crops...
0:33:07 > 0:33:13- ..grows in this sandy, rocky - terrain, 12,000ft above sea level.
0:33:13 > 0:33:17- It stands between a salt lake - and the sacred mountain of Tunupa.
0:33:18 > 0:33:21- That's a volcano, - this is volcanic land.
0:33:21 > 0:33:27- This is why quinoa grows better here - than anywhere else in the world.
0:33:27 > 0:33:30- The Aymara use it - for all kinds of things.
0:33:30 > 0:33:35- All kinds of food and drink and - they use the husk for washing hair.
0:33:36 > 0:33:40- It is said that the Queen of Quinoa - lives in this village.
0:33:42 > 0:33:45- Dona Lupe has grown quinoa - her entire life.
0:33:46 > 0:33:51- She is proud of the fact that she - grows a crop known as royal quinoa.
0:33:52 > 0:33:54- Her language, of course, is Aymara.
0:33:56 > 0:34:00- I've lived in Jirira for 43 years.
0:34:00 > 0:34:04- We've grown quinoa for years, - for ourselves...
0:34:04 > 0:34:07- ..when no-one else - showed an interest in it.
0:34:08 > 0:34:12- It's become a fashionable food, - especially in America.
0:34:12 > 0:34:14- The price of quinoa is good.
0:34:14 > 0:34:17- Why is this quinoa - the best in the world?
0:34:21 > 0:34:23- The moisture comes - from the salt lake.
0:34:24 > 0:34:29- It also grows in the shadow of the - volcano where the god Tunupa lives.
0:34:29 > 0:34:31- It is blessed.
0:34:32 > 0:34:35- But now, with its price rising...
0:34:35 > 0:34:38- ..fewer Bolivians - can afford to buy it.
0:34:50 > 0:34:55- When Ifor Rees was in Bolivia, he - said its population was too scarce.
0:34:55 > 0:34:57- The story is worse now.
0:34:59 > 0:35:05- As is the case across the world, - people migrate to urban areas...
0:35:06 > 0:35:08- ..to places such as El Alto.
0:35:09 > 0:35:14- Few are willing to stay to work - on the land in extreme conditions.
0:35:16 > 0:35:20- Dona Lupe's village is empty, - apart from her and her family.
0:35:22 > 0:35:26- Other families have moved - to the cities in search of work...
0:35:27 > 0:35:29- ..and better education.
0:35:29 > 0:35:34- They return on festival days, - but here, the square is empty.
0:35:50 > 0:35:54- The threat to the way of life - would have worried Ifor Rees.
0:35:54 > 0:35:56- He has his own culture - and way of life.
0:35:56 > 0:36:00- He wrote in Welsh and made sure, - despite extensive travel...
0:36:01 > 0:36:03- ..that it was - his children's language.
0:36:04 > 0:36:06- This is my tribute to him.
0:36:09 > 0:36:10- .
0:36:14 > 0:36:14- Subtitles
0:36:14 > 0:36:16- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:36:22 > 0:36:24- Bolivia is an incredible country...
0:36:24 > 0:36:27- ..a combination of enchanting - culture and history...
0:36:27 > 0:36:30- ..to a backdrop of stunning scenery.
0:36:30 > 0:36:33- The Andes - towering over Altiplano...
0:36:33 > 0:36:36- ..the Amazon forests - and this salt lake...
0:36:37 > 0:36:40- ..with an island covered in cacti - at its centre.
0:36:40 > 0:36:45- Some have grown by one centimetre - a year for the past 1,000 years.
0:36:50 > 0:36:54- No wonder Ifor Rees was so enchanted - by Bolivia and its diversity.
0:36:54 > 0:36:58- Very few ambassadors - would have ventured, as he did...
0:36:58 > 0:37:01- ..to the remotest areas - of the country.
0:37:04 > 0:37:07- One of the first things - Ifor Rees did in a new country...
0:37:08 > 0:37:11- ..was search - for a mountaineering club.
0:37:11 > 0:37:14- He took photos of mountains - in Mexico, Nicaragua...
0:37:15 > 0:37:16- ..Cuba and Venezuela.
0:37:16 > 0:37:20- Ifor Rees's walking trips - weren't straightforward.
0:37:21 > 0:37:25- He would climb to snow-capped - summits or around mountains.
0:37:30 > 0:37:33- Walking was his great delight.
0:37:33 > 0:37:37- He would escape - to the mountains of Altiplano.
0:37:37 > 0:37:42- He would climb mountains with - the most primitive of equipment.
0:37:43 > 0:37:45- He was an adventurer.
0:37:45 > 0:37:48- Once, the adventure - turned to tragedy.
0:37:51 > 0:37:56- On August 6, - Bolivia's national day, in 1946...
0:37:57 > 0:38:00- ..Ifor Rees and a group - of friends climbed Sajama...
0:38:01 > 0:38:03- ..one of the highest peaks of all...
0:38:03 > 0:38:06- ..to place the Bolivian banner - at its summit.
0:38:07 > 0:38:10- The mountain - is over 21,000 feet high.
0:38:10 > 0:38:15- He was 56 years old and the - equipment was clumsy and primitive.
0:38:18 > 0:38:21- It wasn't easy to find help - to carry the equipment.
0:38:21 > 0:38:26- "The Andes' Indians differed to - those of the Himalayas," he said...
0:38:26 > 0:38:29- "..in their attitude - towards high mountains.
0:38:30 > 0:38:33- "The snow-capped mountains - are a taboo to the Indians.
0:38:34 > 0:38:37- "It was apparent that we'd have - to rely on our own backs."
0:38:37 > 0:38:40- This is where their journey began.
0:38:42 > 0:38:45- Only one crew had climbed - this mountain before them.
0:38:45 > 0:38:49- According to the photos, - they left their lorry over there...
0:38:49 > 0:38:53- ..before setting off - up the mountain.
0:38:53 > 0:38:57- They stayed the first night - just below the snow level.
0:38:57 > 0:39:02- They slept the second night - in sub-zero conditions further up.
0:39:02 > 0:39:04- Ifor Rees ventured no further.
0:39:04 > 0:39:08- His work was to carry - the equipment down the mountain...
0:39:08 > 0:39:11- ..while three young climbers - headed to the summit.
0:39:11 > 0:39:13- Only two returned.
0:39:15 > 0:39:19- Ifor Rees chronicled the story - in a report to the Foreign Office.
0:39:19 > 0:39:22- "The crew were separated - as they headed to the summit.
0:39:23 > 0:39:25- "At 2.00pm, - two of them placed the banners...
0:39:26 > 0:39:28- "..of Bolivia, America - and Britain on the summit.
0:39:29 > 0:39:30- "They started their descent...
0:39:31 > 0:39:34- "..believing that Polemus, the - American was also heading back down.
0:39:37 > 0:39:42- "After completing their descent, - it became apparent that he hadn't.
0:39:42 > 0:39:45- "Soldiers were sent up - the mountain...
0:39:45 > 0:39:49- "..an US plane circled it - several times without success."
0:39:49 > 0:39:54- A note at the bottom of the letter - suggests advising Rees...
0:39:54 > 0:39:57- ..not be so adventurous at his age.
0:40:13 > 0:40:15- In the village of Sajana...
0:40:15 > 0:40:19- ..I enquire about the mountain - that towers its inhabitants.
0:40:19 > 0:40:22- "It is foolish to venture - up the mountain," she tells me.
0:40:22 > 0:40:25- "So many have died on it. - They should leave it alone."
0:40:26 > 0:40:29- The taboo Ifor Rees mentioned - 60 years ago remains to this day.
0:40:32 > 0:40:37- This is Bolivia's highest mountain - standing majestically and alone...
0:40:37 > 0:40:39- ..with a perfect profile.
0:40:39 > 0:40:42- It is even more special - to the Bolivians...
0:40:43 > 0:40:46- ..and not even Ifor Rees - could find fault with it.
0:40:46 > 0:40:49- His first book was called Sajama...
0:40:49 > 0:40:52- ..with a photo of the mountain - on its cover.
0:41:01 > 0:41:06- Ifor Rees flew, but in aeroplanes - where pilots needed oxygen.
0:41:06 > 0:41:10- His adventures are chronicled - in the books...
0:41:10 > 0:41:12- ..as are all his other interests.
0:41:12 > 0:41:15- Culture, mountains and photography.
0:41:19 > 0:41:23- Back in the capital city, - there is one more record.
0:41:47 > 0:41:50- I'm at a noisy place - called Uyuni Square...
0:41:50 > 0:41:53- ..in one of the city's newest areas.
0:41:53 > 0:41:57- When Ifor Rees was in La Paz, - there was nothing here.
0:41:57 > 0:42:01- Today, Bolivia's national - football ground is close by...
0:42:01 > 0:42:03- ..in a middle class area.
0:42:03 > 0:42:08- Further down, there are - wealthy areas - some very wealthy.
0:42:08 > 0:42:13- In a significant move, this clock - was moved from the city centre...
0:42:14 > 0:42:17- ..in front of the - San Francisco Monastery...
0:42:17 > 0:42:19- ..to the new La Paz.
0:42:19 > 0:42:25- More importantly for us is that - Ifor Rees laid the foundation stone.
0:42:25 > 0:42:31- This is one small way of remembering - this Welshman's contribution...
0:42:31 > 0:42:32- ..to Bolivian life.
0:42:34 > 0:42:38- Even though he was very Welsh - in his day-to-day life...
0:42:39 > 0:42:41- ..Ifor Rees - was a British representative.
0:42:42 > 0:42:46- He moved in British circles - wherever he went.
0:42:47 > 0:42:50- After the 1946 revolution...
0:42:50 > 0:42:54- ..the situation had calmed - in Bolivia by 1947.
0:42:54 > 0:42:59- The new right-wing President - favoured international corporations.
0:42:59 > 0:43:04- The status of the country's - British representative was enhanced.
0:43:04 > 0:43:08- Ifor Rees rose from being - a British Consul...
0:43:08 > 0:43:11- ..to being Britain's - first Ambassador to Bolivia.
0:43:12 > 0:43:14- Whatever the political background...
0:43:14 > 0:43:18- ..his promotion was testament - to his diplomatic skills.
0:43:19 > 0:43:21- This is it.
0:43:21 > 0:43:23- What is it?
0:43:23 > 0:43:27- This is the official confirmation - of his appointment.
0:43:31 > 0:43:33- Signed by the King.
0:43:33 > 0:43:35- George.
0:43:35 > 0:43:39- You sounded as if you knew him - for a moment!
0:43:43 > 0:43:48- This old station shows why Bolivia - needed an ambassador like Ifor Rees.
0:43:48 > 0:43:51- At the time, - Great Britain and the British...
0:43:52 > 0:43:55- ..had important - commercial interests here...
0:43:55 > 0:43:58- ..in the mining - and railway industries.
0:43:58 > 0:44:02- The two railway companies - were owned by the British.
0:44:02 > 0:44:05- This place is now a symbol - of what happened.
0:44:05 > 0:44:08- There are no trains in La Paz now.
0:44:09 > 0:44:10- El Alto put a stop to that.
0:44:11 > 0:44:14- British influence - has diminished here.
0:44:18 > 0:44:22- Bolivia now trades extensively - with South American countries...
0:44:23 > 0:44:26- ..while Evo Morales tries to break - the West's stranglehold.
0:44:28 > 0:44:33- Patricio and I went to experience - one example of this.
0:44:33 > 0:44:37- There's no need for revolutions - to show the spirit of independence.
0:44:40 > 0:44:43- The saltenas are small, - delicious pasties.
0:44:43 > 0:44:47- They are sold on street corners - or in local chain stores.
0:44:48 > 0:44:53- They are so popular here, they have - almost supplanted one large chain.
0:44:53 > 0:44:55- There are no McDonalds in Bolivia?
0:44:56 > 0:44:59- No, they closed down - probably five, six years ago.
0:45:01 > 0:45:06- A country without one McDonalds - - the country that refused McDonalds.
0:45:06 > 0:45:08- Another great wonder.
0:45:08 > 0:45:12- After savouring the pasties, - I now know why.
0:45:15 > 0:45:20- Another local produce which caused - problems during Ifor Rees's time...
0:45:20 > 0:45:22- ..is causing greater problems today.
0:45:23 > 0:45:28- This leaf is a major part of life - for the people of the Andes - coca.
0:45:28 > 0:45:30- It's part of their ceremonies.
0:45:30 > 0:45:33- They use it to make - mate de coca tea.
0:45:33 > 0:45:38- They chew is constantly to keep - tiredness and starvation at bay.
0:45:41 > 0:45:43- But this is also the leaf - that makes cocaine.
0:45:43 > 0:45:47- For decades, - it has caused problems in Bolivia...
0:45:47 > 0:45:50- ..while being an important part - of the economy.
0:45:50 > 0:45:53- Some governments have tried - to prevent illegal trading.
0:45:53 > 0:45:55- Few have succeeded.
0:45:55 > 0:45:58- Now, under Evo Morales, - the coca grower...
0:45:58 > 0:46:01- ..its more successful than ever.
0:46:01 > 0:46:05- It causes major problems - in South America and Europe...
0:46:05 > 0:46:09- ..and locally, it creates fortunes - and causes corruption.
0:46:10 > 0:46:13- Ifor Rees noted in his book...
0:46:13 > 0:46:16- ..that the government - knew about its properties...
0:46:17 > 0:46:21- ..but profit was more important - than people's mental health.
0:46:23 > 0:46:27- Beyond Bolivia's natural beauty, - problems run deep.
0:46:27 > 0:46:32- Corruption and exploitation, local - rights and external interference...
0:46:32 > 0:46:36- ..attracting foreign investment - and poverty.
0:46:36 > 0:46:38- The country is changing quickly.
0:46:39 > 0:46:43- The Altiplano becomes more sparse - and El Alto spreads like a rash.
0:46:43 > 0:46:46- Its sanctuary for me, - as it was for Ifor Rees...
0:46:46 > 0:46:48- ..was its natural beauty.
0:46:57 > 0:47:00- There's only one place to end - - back at Illimani.
0:47:00 > 0:47:05- It's a mountain that seems to have - followed us on our journey...
0:47:05 > 0:47:09- ..just as it followed Ifor Rees - during his time here.
0:47:09 > 0:47:13- Life has changed since then, but he - would still recognise some things.
0:47:14 > 0:47:17- He'd recognise the rural life - and its people.
0:47:17 > 0:47:20- He'd recognise the problems - - they are eternal problems.
0:47:20 > 0:47:23- When does investment - become exploitation.
0:47:23 > 0:47:25- Who has the right - to national wealth?
0:47:26 > 0:47:29- Finally, he would recognise - the mountains.
0:47:29 > 0:47:33- They remain. - And the greatest of them - Illimani.
0:48:00 > 0:48:02- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:48:02 > 0:48:02- .