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0:00:04 > 0:00:06- Festivals. Lively celebrations.
0:00:07 > 0:00:11- A feast of colours, - sounds and delicious foods...
0:00:12 > 0:00:15- ..to celebrate - the key moments of life.
0:00:16 > 0:00:20- Birth, death and marriage.
0:00:22 > 0:00:26- In this episode, - I'll visit southern Mexico...
0:00:26 > 0:00:31- ..to witness remarkable celebrations - that are transforming the country.
0:00:31 > 0:00:36- The Dia de los Muertos festival - - the Day of the Dead.
0:00:36 > 0:00:39- A three-day event - when the living and the departed...
0:00:40 > 0:00:44- ..join together to celebrate wildly - and challenge death.
0:00:46 > 0:00:48- For many, death is the final taboo.
0:00:49 > 0:00:54- But here in Mexico, - death is a very familiar spectre.
0:00:54 > 0:00:59- Every year, hundreds - of lively parties are held...
0:00:59 > 0:01:04- ..where people dance alongside - skeletons and scary skulls.
0:01:08 > 0:01:10- But the focus of the festival...
0:01:10 > 0:01:14- ..is to welcome back - loved ones who have died.
0:01:14 > 0:01:17- Each year, on All Saints' Day - and All Souls' Day...
0:01:17 > 0:01:20- ..the deceased join the living...
0:01:21 > 0:01:24- ..and are indulged - with personal gifts.
0:01:25 > 0:01:28- The people of Mexico - believe the souls of the dead...
0:01:28 > 0:01:31- ..return for a short time.
0:01:31 > 0:01:35- It's a belief that dates back - to an age-old Mexican custom.
0:01:35 > 0:01:39- Over the coming days, - I'll witness the relationship...
0:01:39 > 0:01:41- ..between the living and the dead.
0:02:01 > 0:02:03- Oaxaca - is a city in southeast Mexico...
0:02:04 > 0:02:06- ..roughly the same size as Swansea.
0:02:08 > 0:02:12- At the end of October, - it hosts lively celebrations...
0:02:12 > 0:02:15- ..to celebrate the Day of the Dead.
0:02:15 > 0:02:18- Visitors - from four corners of the world...
0:02:19 > 0:02:21- ..come to watch the fun.
0:02:21 > 0:02:26- The spectacle is rooted in a local - tradition spanning five centuries...
0:02:27 > 0:02:30- ..when the death rituals - of Mexican Indians...
0:02:30 > 0:02:34- ..were fused with - the Christian All Saints' festival.
0:02:39 > 0:02:43- The three-day festival, - from 31 October...
0:02:43 > 0:02:48- ..to 2 November, - is Mexico's most renowned festival.
0:02:52 > 0:02:54- Oaxaca's - civic authorities work hard...
0:02:55 > 0:02:57- ..to promote the festival.
0:02:58 > 0:03:01- A lengthy programme of events - has been organised.
0:03:02 > 0:03:07- Concerts, along with - altar-making and art competitions...
0:03:08 > 0:03:11- ..take over the cemeteries - and public squares.
0:03:17 > 0:03:19- During preparations...
0:03:19 > 0:03:23- ..people buy decorations - to adorn their homes.
0:03:26 > 0:03:29- Skulls and skeletons, - which can look rather scary...
0:03:30 > 0:03:34- ..and comical, as well as - the occasional Halloween trinket.
0:03:34 > 0:03:37- American influences - are never far away.
0:03:39 > 0:03:42- Wherever you look, there's death.
0:03:42 > 0:03:45- Not in - a threatening or macabre way...
0:03:46 > 0:03:48- ..but in a lively and colourful way.
0:03:48 > 0:03:52- It's as if people play with death - like a child plays with a toy.
0:03:53 > 0:03:55- There are sugar skulls...
0:03:55 > 0:03:58- ..reminding us - that life and death is sweet.
0:03:59 > 0:04:02- Fancy-dress skeletons...
0:04:02 > 0:04:06- ..reminding us that death touches - us all, even the most affluent.
0:04:07 > 0:04:11- I have to admit, - it feels very foreign to me.
0:04:11 > 0:04:16- It's something I'm not completely - comfortable with at the moment.
0:04:24 > 0:04:26- In the Mercado de Abastos...
0:04:26 > 0:04:29- ..Mexico's - largest open-air market...
0:04:30 > 0:04:33- ..it's nice to - see more familiar produce on offer.
0:04:33 > 0:04:36- These colourful flowers...
0:04:36 > 0:04:40- ..are said to help spirits - find their way home.
0:04:41 > 0:04:44- I love fresh flowers at home...
0:04:44 > 0:04:49- ..but I've never bought flowers - to attract a spirit before.
0:04:50 > 0:04:55- They smell lovely but there's - a first time for everything.
0:04:57 > 0:05:01- Tonnes of traditional foods - are also on sale.
0:05:01 > 0:05:04- These chocolate beans - are used with chillies...
0:05:05 > 0:05:09- ..to create a distinctive sauce - called mole negro.
0:05:09 > 0:05:13- This region's mole negro - is the best in Mexico, so they say.
0:05:16 > 0:05:21- One of the festival's unique - sights are the sand tapestries.
0:05:21 > 0:05:24- Here, schools and colleges - create tapestries...
0:05:24 > 0:05:27- ..in one of - the city's public squares.
0:05:28 > 0:05:32- These giant skulls - and other depictions of death...
0:05:33 > 0:05:37- ..are typical of the images - synonymous with the festival.
0:05:38 > 0:05:42- Wandering the streets, - it's easy to lose oneself...
0:05:42 > 0:05:44- ..in the colourful preparations.
0:05:45 > 0:05:48- A unique combination - of religion and history...
0:05:49 > 0:05:51- ..is firmly rooted in the festival.
0:05:52 > 0:05:56- Father Maldonado - is a Christian priest...
0:05:56 > 0:05:58- ..of Mexican Native Indian descent.
0:05:59 > 0:06:03- He's proud of the way - indigenous customs are celebrated...
0:06:03 > 0:06:08- ..to make the Day of the Dead - a unique festival.
0:06:10 > 0:06:15- There's a strong link between - the countries that conquered us...
0:06:15 > 0:06:19- ..specifically Spain here in Mexico.
0:06:19 > 0:06:26- The Spanish missionaries didn't - try to destroy ancient customs.
0:06:27 > 0:06:33- They took the best they had - to offer, the positive things.
0:06:33 > 0:06:39- And without destroying the cult - and worship they had for the dead...
0:06:39 > 0:06:46- ..they emphasised the fact that - this was linked to a higher being.
0:06:46 > 0:06:50- Father Maldonado values highly - the ancient symbolism...
0:06:51 > 0:06:55- ..preserved in the celebrations - and relates the sand tapestries...
0:06:56 > 0:06:58- ..to the lives - of the indigenous people.
0:06:59 > 0:07:02- For example, - why do they create with sand?
0:07:02 > 0:07:06- It's the material they have to hand - and they give it form and life.
0:07:07 > 0:07:13- They decorate it with seasonal - flowers such as marigolds.
0:07:13 > 0:07:16- Their golden colour - is the colour of life.
0:07:17 > 0:07:21- The marigolds are the shape - of the sun and are vibrant.
0:07:22 > 0:07:28- According to the Pre-Hispanic - belief, the sun enlightens people.
0:07:28 > 0:07:35- The same is true today, but - the light up above is God Almighty.
0:07:39 > 0:07:43- About 40 kilometres from the city - is the site of Mitla...
0:07:43 > 0:07:47- ..the ancient temple - of the Zapotec people...
0:07:47 > 0:07:51- ..who lived in this part of Mexico - in pre-Christian times.
0:07:52 > 0:07:55- They worshipped - the God of Death and the Underworld.
0:07:56 > 0:08:00- Apolinar Geminiano has studied - the history of the site.
0:08:00 > 0:08:02- They have discovered...
0:08:02 > 0:08:05- ..that this was the burial place....
0:08:05 > 0:08:08- ..of the Zapotecs' - high priests and kings.
0:08:09 > 0:08:16- They were buried in tombs - in the shape of a cross.
0:08:18 > 0:08:21- They were buried with various - items because they believed...
0:08:21 > 0:08:23- ..they were on a journey - to another life.
0:08:24 > 0:08:29- They were buried with gold, - silver, pearls and coral...
0:08:29 > 0:08:35- ..water and textiles which - prepared them for the other world.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40- In underground chambers...
0:08:40 > 0:08:45- ..the skulls and bodies - of prominent figures were buried.
0:08:49 > 0:08:51- Mitla means the Place of the Dead.
0:08:51 > 0:08:54- I'm literally - in amongst them all down here.
0:08:56 > 0:08:59- Reigning over them all...
0:08:59 > 0:09:03- ..was Mictlantecuhtli, the - god of death, who people worshipped.
0:09:04 > 0:09:08- Symbols and carvings of skulls - signified his presence.
0:09:08 > 0:09:10- To placate this ferocious god...
0:09:11 > 0:09:13- ..human sacrifices were offered.
0:09:16 > 0:09:18- Above is a paved square...
0:09:18 > 0:09:21- ..showing where the - ceremonial killings took place.
0:09:22 > 0:09:27- The decorative architecture - denotes the site's importance.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31- This is the largest religious site - in southern Mexico...
0:09:31 > 0:09:33- ..before the Spanish arrived.
0:09:33 > 0:09:36- By the 16th century, - everything changed.
0:09:36 > 0:09:40- The Spanish Conquistadores - arrived...
0:09:40 > 0:09:45- ..and one of the first things they - did was introduce their religion.
0:09:45 > 0:09:49- They destroyed - the original temple...
0:09:49 > 0:09:53- ..and erected their own church - in the heart of Mitla.
0:09:53 > 0:09:58- It was a concerted effort to replace - the natives' indigenous way of life.
0:10:00 > 0:10:04- But the natives' way of life - wasn't the only thing to change...
0:10:05 > 0:10:07- ..during this turbulent time.
0:10:07 > 0:10:10- When the Spanish arrived in 1517...
0:10:10 > 0:10:14- ..25 million of the indigenous - people lived in Mexico.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18- A century later, - the sword and European diseases...
0:10:19 > 0:10:22- ..almost wiped out - the entire population.
0:10:22 > 0:10:24- Fewer than a million survived.
0:10:27 > 0:10:31- This chilling fact partly explains - why Mexico's inhabitants...
0:10:32 > 0:10:36- ..choose to mark death - in their own inimitable way.
0:10:40 > 0:10:45- One of the festival's customs is - the offering of bread to the dead.
0:10:46 > 0:10:50- The Aztecs and Zapotecs mixed blood - with flour to make sweet bread.
0:10:53 > 0:10:55- Pan de muerto por favor.
0:10:55 > 0:11:00- In the same vein, Mexicans nowadays - prepare sweet bread for the dead...
0:11:00 > 0:11:01- ..but without the blood!
0:11:02 > 0:11:05- The arrival - of Christianity changed things.
0:11:05 > 0:11:09- As well as laying bread - on the graves of relations...
0:11:09 > 0:11:12- ..people buy pan de muerto - to eat and enjoy.
0:11:15 > 0:11:17- It's just like brioche.
0:11:17 > 0:11:19- Muchas gracias.
0:11:21 > 0:11:24- As well as the pan de muerto, - the mole negro...
0:11:24 > 0:11:26- ..is another integral food.
0:11:27 > 0:11:30- This thick - chilli and chocolate sauce...
0:11:30 > 0:11:32- ..is a symbol of past bloodshed.
0:11:33 > 0:11:36- As Apolinar Geminiano explained...
0:11:37 > 0:11:41- ..only one of the ingredients binds - contemporary life in Oaxaca...
0:11:41 > 0:11:45- ..with the customs - of the original Mexican people.
0:11:47 > 0:11:52- Regarding the pre-Hispanic era, - we continue offerings of mole...
0:11:53 > 0:11:59- ..flowers and drinks - like mescal and chocolate.
0:11:59 > 0:12:03- Pre-Hispanic offerings - are still used on altars.
0:12:03 > 0:12:10- We're uniting the rituals of the - ancient natives with those of Spain.
0:12:10 > 0:12:14- Across the city - and the entire state...
0:12:14 > 0:12:20- ..these unique offerings are being - prepared for a giant celebration.
0:12:20 > 0:12:23- Around a million - of Oaxaca's residents...
0:12:23 > 0:12:26- ..will take part in the festivities.
0:12:26 > 0:12:29- With so many households - preparing mole...
0:12:29 > 0:12:33- ..there's a strong aroma - of chocolate in the air!
0:12:35 > 0:12:36- .
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0:12:47 > 0:12:49- For three days each year...
0:12:49 > 0:12:53- ..on the eve of - All Saints' and All Souls' Day...
0:12:54 > 0:12:58- ..the people of Mexico - remember loved ones who have died.
0:12:58 > 0:13:01- Many believe their souls - escape the clutches of death...
0:13:02 > 0:13:07- ..to return to life for the Dia - de los Muertos, the Day of the Dead.
0:13:09 > 0:13:14- It's a cause for celebration - throughout the country and beyond.
0:13:18 > 0:13:23- October 31st, the eve of All Saints, - commonly known as Halloween.
0:13:23 > 0:13:27- People are busy decorating graves - in Oaxaca's largest cemetery.
0:13:31 > 0:13:33- Buenos dias.
0:13:33 > 0:13:38- One thing I've noticed is the number - of children at the cemetery.
0:13:38 > 0:13:40- They're happy to be here too.
0:13:40 > 0:13:44- It shows you - how open people are about death...
0:13:44 > 0:13:48- ..and regard it as merely - the next step in the life cycle.
0:13:48 > 0:13:51- Here in the Panteon General...
0:13:51 > 0:13:54- ..many civic activities - have begun too.
0:13:54 > 0:13:58- Keeping watch over proceedings - is Miguel Angel.
0:13:58 > 0:14:03- It's his duty to prepare - the ofrendas competition...
0:14:03 > 0:14:08- ..the decoration of colourful altars - in homes and public places...
0:14:08 > 0:14:10- ..to attract spirits.
0:14:10 > 0:14:14- We have eight contestants. - It'll be very competitive.
0:14:15 > 0:14:19- It gets better every year, - with new elements introduced...
0:14:19 > 0:14:24- ..while also retaining - the old tradition of the altars.
0:14:25 > 0:14:29- Miguel also places candles - in the nichos...
0:14:29 > 0:14:33- ..alcoves in the wall - surrounding the cemetery...
0:14:33 > 0:14:35- ..where thousands are buried.
0:14:36 > 0:14:40- At four o'clock - we start lighting the candles.
0:14:40 > 0:14:46- There are 2,440 nichos - and we place a candle in each one.
0:14:48 > 0:14:53- People are preparing to welcome - the spirits of their loved ones.
0:14:53 > 0:14:57- Washing headstones and decorating - is the practical element.
0:14:57 > 0:15:02- While that's going on, - something deeper happens too.
0:15:02 > 0:15:04- In one area...
0:15:04 > 0:15:09- ..a widow has asked a musician - to sing at her husband's grave.
0:15:09 > 0:15:11- SINGS IN SPANISH
0:15:18 > 0:15:20- That was unexpected.
0:15:20 > 0:15:25- I didn't expect him to sing and - comfort the widow with his music.
0:15:39 > 0:15:44- Everyone was listening intently. - The cemetery was silent.
0:15:44 > 0:15:47- It was a very peaceful moment.
0:15:58 > 0:16:02- Now I've had a taste of preparations - in the city...
0:16:02 > 0:16:05- ..I'm keen to see - their preparations in the country.
0:16:05 > 0:16:09- They say it's more family orientated - and parochial there.
0:16:09 > 0:16:13- All the community - comes together to celebrate.
0:16:13 > 0:16:15- I'm looking forward to it.
0:16:19 > 0:16:23- I'm on my way to Soledad de Etla, - a small town...
0:16:23 > 0:16:26- ..20km from Oaxaca.
0:16:26 > 0:16:32- Residents here are renowned - for their exuberant celebrations.
0:16:32 > 0:16:34- The streets might be quiet now...
0:16:35 > 0:16:37- ..but the town - will be packed tomorrow...
0:16:37 > 0:16:43- ..as some of south Mexico's most - colourful celebrations take over.
0:16:43 > 0:16:49- Before venturing outside, people - will celebrate first at home...
0:16:49 > 0:16:54- ..around altars that are purposely - decorated to attract spirits.
0:16:54 > 0:16:58- At the home of one of the town's - oldest families is Lorena...
0:16:59 > 0:17:03- ..a local doctor, and her daughter, - who are preparing ofrendas.
0:17:04 > 0:17:08- Mexicans all over the world - dedicate a corner of their home...
0:17:09 > 0:17:11- ..to this colourful ritual.
0:17:13 > 0:17:19- We make an offering to the dead, - things they like most...
0:17:19 > 0:17:24- ..since this is the only time - they can come to visit us.
0:17:24 > 0:17:33- We still remember them, so we offer - mescal, mole and sweet pumpkin.
0:17:33 > 0:17:39- Everything they liked - is what means most to us too.
0:17:42 > 0:17:46- This year, additional offerings - are made on the ofrenda.
0:17:46 > 0:17:50- Lorena's mother-in-law - died a year and a half ago.
0:17:50 > 0:17:54- Her soul will return to the home - for the first time.
0:17:54 > 0:17:58- The first year they die, - they don't come to visit us.
0:17:59 > 0:18:04- My mother-in-law died in April, - so she didn't visit in November.
0:18:04 > 0:18:12- This year, she'll return along with - the others who've been dead longer.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19- The festival - brings back happy memories...
0:18:19 > 0:18:21- ..and stirs up emotions.
0:18:22 > 0:18:27- Lorena doesn't claim to be able - to contact the spirits who return.
0:18:28 > 0:18:33- I can't feel their presence, no, - only happiness in my heart.
0:18:33 > 0:18:40- I've never heard a noise or a door - slamming that tells me they're here.
0:18:40 > 0:18:45- I feel them in my heart. It's - more sentimental than physical.
0:18:46 > 0:18:48- Miranda noticed - that the glass of mescal...
0:18:49 > 0:18:53- ..the potent local alcohol - isn't quite as full as it was...
0:18:54 > 0:18:57- ..which suggests - the spirits have returned.
0:18:58 > 0:19:00- SHE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:19:06 > 0:19:08- Since we've been here...
0:19:08 > 0:19:10- ..some of the mescal has gone.
0:19:11 > 0:19:14- Miranda believes - the spirits are here...
0:19:15 > 0:19:17- ..drinking the mescal.
0:19:17 > 0:19:19- It's probably the two grandfathers!
0:19:20 > 0:19:22- It's strong too.
0:19:22 > 0:19:24- They're enjoying themselves!
0:19:31 > 0:19:34- Miranda's father Pipino - has farmland near the town.
0:19:35 > 0:19:39- He must get things in order - before the celebrations begin.
0:19:40 > 0:19:44- Although he has to work while - the rest of the family prepares...
0:19:44 > 0:19:49- ..he regards himself lucky to - live in such a beautiful setting...
0:19:49 > 0:19:51- ..and a close-knit community.
0:19:54 > 0:19:57- We're all friendly - because we know each other.
0:19:58 > 0:20:01- We're always ready - to help anyone in need.
0:20:02 > 0:20:06- We're expected to be friendly. Our - culture has always dictated that.
0:20:06 > 0:20:08- As well as the closeness...
0:20:08 > 0:20:12- ..Pipino's proud - of his community's celebrations.
0:20:12 > 0:20:16- A ritual that has emanated from - this very town, according to him.
0:20:16 > 0:20:21- The tradition originates from - this community in Soledad de Etla.
0:20:22 > 0:20:26- Because the response - is so enthusiastic...
0:20:26 > 0:20:31- ..celebrations have grown in this - community and in neighbouring towns.
0:20:35 > 0:20:39- Back in Oaxaca, - Miguel and a group of volunteers...
0:20:39 > 0:20:43- ..are placing the thousands - of candles to light the nichos.
0:20:44 > 0:20:47- The ofrendas competition - is hotting up.
0:20:47 > 0:20:51- The altar is dedicated to peace. - What does reconciliation mean?
0:20:51 > 0:20:54- That conflict has now been resolved.
0:20:54 > 0:20:57- That everything that was avoided - is now acknowledged.
0:20:57 > 0:21:02- The traditional candles - of Teotitlan del Valle...
0:21:02 > 0:21:05- ..and skeletons - playing wind instruments...
0:21:05 > 0:21:07- ..represent a typical Oaxacan band.
0:21:08 > 0:21:12- The altars that respect tradition - and show creativity...
0:21:13 > 0:21:14- ..will win over the judges.
0:21:15 > 0:21:21- We're proud to be participating - and preserving tradition.
0:21:22 > 0:21:24- Because the customs - are slowly disappearing....
0:21:24 > 0:21:29- ..our parents and ancestors - are urging us to keep them alive.
0:21:39 > 0:21:43- Later, a more sombre feel - spreads through the cemetery...
0:21:43 > 0:21:47- ..as people prepare to welcome - the souls of the angelitos...
0:21:47 > 0:21:50- ..the children who have died.
0:21:52 > 0:21:56- The death of a child - is the hardest thing...
0:21:56 > 0:21:58- ..for any parent to bear.
0:21:58 > 0:22:02- Seeing this grave - is heart-breaking...
0:22:02 > 0:22:04- ..with the sweets and toys.
0:22:04 > 0:22:09- But it's also lovely because - this festival is an opportunity...
0:22:09 > 0:22:13- ..for the family - to be reunited with the child...
0:22:14 > 0:22:16- ..almost 40 years later.
0:22:25 > 0:22:29- Here, - a woman decorates a family grave.
0:22:30 > 0:22:34- Buried alongside many relations - is a baby.
0:22:34 > 0:22:38- She will decorate the altar - to remember her niece...
0:22:38 > 0:22:41- ..who died from pneumonia - at only 40 days old.
0:22:43 > 0:22:46- We celebrate - and remember the angelitos...
0:22:46 > 0:22:49- ..by bringing - small tokens to the cemetery.
0:22:50 > 0:22:59- A little pan de muerto, flowers and - tiny skulls to remember their souls.
0:23:00 > 0:23:07- I've brought her small flowers. - She's buried on this side.
0:23:07 > 0:23:12- Her father's in the middle.
0:23:14 > 0:23:21- Later, her mother will bring photos, - candles and small breads.
0:23:22 > 0:23:27- Decorating graves and placing - ofrendas are two important customs.
0:23:27 > 0:23:32- But the tradition which brings - colour, and certainly noise...
0:23:32 > 0:23:36- ..to the celebrations - is the muerteada processions.
0:23:40 > 0:23:44- In Soledad de Etla, - a special muerteada takes place...
0:23:44 > 0:23:47- ..to remember the angelitos.
0:23:48 > 0:23:51- The young celebrate the belief...
0:23:51 > 0:23:56- ..that the souls of children - are visiting the town once again.
0:23:57 > 0:24:01- The purpose of the muerteada - is to give those souls a chance...
0:24:01 > 0:24:04- ..to dance and enjoy - the only opportunity...
0:24:04 > 0:24:07- ..to be back amongst the living.
0:24:07 > 0:24:10- Muerteada literally means - dance of the dead.
0:24:14 > 0:24:19- Pipino and Lorena's eldest daughter - Gabriella is here with her son...
0:24:20 > 0:24:22- ..who has dressed up - like the others.
0:24:26 > 0:24:30- But the cartoon character - and witches' outfits...
0:24:30 > 0:24:33- ..are as prominent - as the more traditional ones.
0:24:34 > 0:24:37- As the children - catch the sweets that are thrown...
0:24:37 > 0:24:40- ..Halloween customs - are an growing influence.
0:24:41 > 0:24:44- Halloween - is relatively new to Mexico.
0:24:44 > 0:24:47- It hails from Europe and America, - of course...
0:24:47 > 0:24:50- ..but certain elements...
0:24:50 > 0:24:54- ..have successfully integrated - with the Day of the Dead.
0:24:54 > 0:24:58- We've seen a few witches, - a few film characters and Dracula...
0:24:59 > 0:25:01- ..but Halloween hasn't taken over.
0:25:08 > 0:25:12- It's nightfall - at the Panteon General.
0:25:12 > 0:25:17- The thousands of candles along the - wall create a magical atmosphere.
0:25:19 > 0:25:21- Around the cemetery...
0:25:21 > 0:25:24- ..Miguel and his volunteers - create a pathway...
0:25:25 > 0:25:28- ..to guide people - to a performance of Faure's Requiem.
0:25:29 > 0:25:33- This is the time of day when - the souls of the angelitos return.
0:25:33 > 0:25:36- It's a special moment for Miguel.
0:25:37 > 0:25:44- The Panteon is lit and ready to - receive the souls of the children.
0:25:45 > 0:25:48- Our children - who have been lost on the way...
0:25:48 > 0:25:52- ..and we have prepared the way - to guide them back to their homes.
0:25:52 > 0:25:55- We put these candles here - to welcome them.
0:25:56 > 0:25:58- CHOIR SINGS IN LATIN
0:26:21 > 0:26:26- The haunting sounds of - the requiem mass silences everyone.
0:26:28 > 0:26:32- More families arrive to spend time - at their children's gravesides.
0:26:32 > 0:26:36- This is one of the festival's - most tender moments.
0:26:41 > 0:26:45- There's a magical atmosphere - here tonight.
0:26:45 > 0:26:49- Tomorrow there'll be - a big, noisy party...
0:26:49 > 0:26:52- ..but now - only two things are important.
0:26:53 > 0:26:56- The preparations - before their welcome return...
0:26:56 > 0:26:59- ..and remembering the angelitos.
0:27:01 > 0:27:04- CHOIR SINGS IN LATIN
0:27:25 > 0:27:25- .
0:27:30 > 0:27:30- Subtitles
0:27:30 > 0:27:32- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:27:41 > 0:27:43- The first of November.
0:27:44 > 0:27:46- All Saints' Day.
0:27:46 > 0:27:52- Today is a day of feasting, as - important to the people of Mexico...
0:27:52 > 0:27:55- ..as Christmas Day is to us.
0:27:55 > 0:27:59- It'll be - a day of major celebrations...
0:27:59 > 0:28:04- ..but first the food must be - prepared - chicken in this case.
0:28:04 > 0:28:08- Lorena and Gabriella are preparing - enough for 12 relatives...
0:28:09 > 0:28:11- ..who are joining them.
0:28:16 > 0:28:19- The fire has been lit - in time to make mole negro.
0:28:20 > 0:28:24- The Day of the Dead wouldn't be - complete without this special sauce.
0:28:25 > 0:28:27- There's enough for everyone...
0:28:27 > 0:28:30- ..including - the most important guests of all...
0:28:31 > 0:28:33- ..who will be here in spirit!
0:28:37 > 0:28:41- After getting changed, Lorena - gives the mole one final stir...
0:28:41 > 0:28:44- ..and reveals - the secret ingredients.
0:28:45 > 0:28:51- I grind different sorts of chilli - - guajillo, mora.
0:28:51 > 0:28:58- I flavour it with banana, bread, - almond, cinnamon and pepper.
0:28:58 > 0:29:05- We roast the chillies - and add fried bananas and apples...
0:29:05 > 0:29:11- ..and we grind them into a paste.
0:29:11 > 0:29:13- And that's the mole!
0:29:16 > 0:29:19- The souls are first to eat.
0:29:20 > 0:29:24- And the contented souls are happy - to share a bottle of mescal...
0:29:25 > 0:29:27- ..while they're waiting!
0:29:27 > 0:29:30- During the festival, - we traditionally serve mole...
0:29:30 > 0:29:33- ..because it's what they liked most.
0:29:33 > 0:29:35- That's why - it's placed on the altar.
0:29:37 > 0:29:42- This is where the souls come - to take the essence of the food.
0:29:43 > 0:29:45- This is the food they eat - on the day of the festival.
0:29:46 > 0:29:49- This is food and delicacies - for the souls only.
0:29:49 > 0:29:54- The family mustn't eat anything from - the altar for the next two days.
0:29:54 > 0:29:58- Once the festival's over, - they can eat whatever they like.
0:29:59 > 0:30:03- According to some, the food - loses some of its flavour...
0:30:03 > 0:30:07- ..since the souls - have taken away the nourishment.
0:30:13 > 0:30:15- But the food for the guests...
0:30:16 > 0:30:18- ..is tasty enough.
0:30:18 > 0:30:23- Lorena's brother and sister have - travelled five hours to get here.
0:30:23 > 0:30:27- As well as the chicken and mole, - they eat special tortillas...
0:30:27 > 0:30:31- ..made with black maize flour.
0:30:31 > 0:30:33- The colour of death.
0:30:35 > 0:30:39- It's not a formal meal and there's - plenty of coming and going.
0:30:39 > 0:30:41- But soon the feast will be over.
0:30:44 > 0:30:48- A procession is nearing - Lorena and Pipino's home.
0:30:49 > 0:30:52- When the muerteada arrives, - the place goes wild.
0:31:13 > 0:31:17- It's a carnival for ghouls, - and there's no escaping the noise...
0:31:17 > 0:31:19- ..or the dancing.
0:31:28 > 0:31:32- Lorena, who moved here - to live after getting married...
0:31:32 > 0:31:35- ..loves Soledad's scary carnival.
0:31:35 > 0:31:37- I used to live elsewhere...
0:31:37 > 0:31:41- ..but when I came here, - I was surprised to see the costumes.
0:31:41 > 0:31:44- They're beautiful - and they're handcrafted.
0:31:44 > 0:31:50- They're not your average costumes. - They're crafted from foam.
0:31:52 > 0:31:54- The music surprised me too.
0:31:55 > 0:31:59- They go from house to house - before moving to the church.
0:32:01 > 0:32:04- The muerteada - began at the cemetery...
0:32:04 > 0:32:08- ..to give souls time to - possess those in the procession...
0:32:08 > 0:32:10- ..and join in the fun.
0:32:10 > 0:32:15- It's not only people - who are behind these scary masks.
0:32:15 > 0:32:19- As well as the singing and dancing, - there are readings too.
0:32:19 > 0:32:25- David remained quite sad. - The time came to repent.
0:32:25 > 0:32:30- 'Am I guilty of being kind to the - attractive one who came to my door?'
0:32:30 > 0:32:33- And now he sits pensively.
0:32:33 > 0:32:39- As you'd expect, only - tongue-in-cheek poems play a part.
0:32:39 > 0:32:43- The poet recites calaveritas...
0:32:43 > 0:32:47- ..which means little skulls, and he - makes fun of death, and pokes fun...
0:32:47 > 0:32:49- ..at local dignitaries.
0:32:49 > 0:32:53- Here's the song, - 'No Pasa Nada.'(Nothing Happens)
0:32:56 > 0:33:01- As the musicians step forward, - Pipino pays the band...
0:33:01 > 0:33:04- ..and wishes the muerteada well...
0:33:04 > 0:33:07- ..because - they're only just beginning.
0:33:08 > 0:33:11- They'll be performing - for the next 20 hours.
0:33:12 > 0:33:15- That's a challenge, even - for an extreme runner like myself!
0:33:30 > 0:33:33- This is only one - of about six bands...
0:33:33 > 0:33:35- ..who march through Soledad.
0:33:38 > 0:33:40- As the afternoon wears on...
0:33:40 > 0:33:43- ..hundreds more - will come to join them.
0:33:43 > 0:33:47- By nightfall, there'll be - no room to move on the streets.
0:34:00 > 0:34:04- In Oaxaca, the noise - and the dancing begins later.
0:34:04 > 0:34:07- The party's in full swing here too.
0:34:07 > 0:34:10- The celebrations - are more scattered...
0:34:10 > 0:34:14- ..and it's the young people - who are the most enthusiastic.
0:34:14 > 0:34:18- But there are some who believe - it's better to stay away.
0:34:19 > 0:34:24- Evangelical churches are growing in - popularity across Latin America...
0:34:24 > 0:34:27- ..partly due to American influence.
0:34:27 > 0:34:33- They believe these ancient customs - are born out of superstition.
0:34:33 > 0:34:36- They're also against - the nature of the celebrating.
0:34:37 > 0:34:41- Having been ordained as a priest - into the Catholic Church...
0:34:41 > 0:34:45- ..Marco Zavaleta turned to - the Evangelical Church.
0:34:45 > 0:34:49- He believes - that it's the Bible's teachings...
0:34:49 > 0:34:54- ..which guide people to God, - not customs and traditions.
0:34:54 > 0:35:00- The Evangelical Church - respects these rituals.
0:35:01 > 0:35:06- The traditions and the culture - are really beautiful...
0:35:06 > 0:35:12- ..but they don't lead us to God.
0:35:13 > 0:35:19- That's why we, through God's word...
0:35:19 > 0:35:24- ..and being respectful - of culture and traditions...
0:35:24 > 0:35:28- ..are trying - to help people realize...
0:35:28 > 0:35:33- ..it's best - not to join in these festivities.
0:35:33 > 0:35:38- For us, church services continue - as normal during this time.
0:35:38 > 0:35:45- We emphasize - that with our way of life...
0:35:45 > 0:35:50- ..it's possible for people to live - happily without these traditions.
0:35:50 > 0:35:53- It'd be an almighty task...
0:35:54 > 0:35:58- ..to persuade the people of Soledad - de Etla to give up their carnival.
0:35:58 > 0:36:04- The festivities are an important - part of the town's religion.
0:36:04 > 0:36:09- The muerteada processions come to - the Virgin of Solitude Church....
0:36:09 > 0:36:11- ..to be blessed.
0:36:11 > 0:36:16- The church is open all night - for people who wish to pray...
0:36:16 > 0:36:18- ..or to remember their loved ones.
0:36:20 > 0:36:24- There's a religious depth to - the rituals that happen inside...
0:36:25 > 0:36:27- ..and outside the church.
0:36:27 > 0:36:30- It's this strange contrast - between noise and silence...
0:36:31 > 0:36:33- ..which makes - Dia de los Muertos so interesting.
0:36:34 > 0:36:39- In our society, these two ways - of celebrating are kept apart.
0:36:39 > 0:36:42- Look after our fragile lives.
0:36:43 > 0:36:47- Before moving on, - one of the muerteada's leaders...
0:36:47 > 0:36:50- ..asks for the living - and the dead to be blessed.
0:36:50 > 0:36:53- We ask for your blessing.
0:36:54 > 0:36:59- Although Etla is the home of the - muerteada in this part of Mexico...
0:37:00 > 0:37:04- ..three's plenty of exuberance - on the streets of Oaxaca too.
0:37:07 > 0:37:11- I have to admit, - the atmosphere is electric here.
0:37:11 > 0:37:16- Even in Oaxaca, it's a wonderful way - of bringing the community together.
0:37:16 > 0:37:18- Thank you!
0:37:19 > 0:37:23- After leading a procession - through the city...
0:37:23 > 0:37:27- ..some of the muerteadas - head to the Panteon General.
0:37:29 > 0:37:35- Some families spend time - at their relatives' gravesides.
0:37:38 > 0:37:41- Last night it was the angelitos - who were remembered.
0:37:42 > 0:37:46- Tonight's focus is on other - loved ones who are buried here.
0:37:46 > 0:37:51- This is the family - of a 14-year-old child...
0:37:51 > 0:37:53- ..who died 15 years ago.
0:37:59 > 0:38:04- At another grave, friends of a - cafe owner drink beer and tequila...
0:38:04 > 0:38:06- ..to remember him.
0:38:06 > 0:38:08- ..to remember him.- - Salud!
0:38:20 > 0:38:25- What strikes you most, - whether you believe it or not...
0:38:25 > 0:38:29- ..is the enjoyment and fun - people have from being here.
0:38:39 > 0:38:42- Miguel Angel is still on duty.
0:38:42 > 0:38:46- The cemetery - will have to close before midnight.
0:38:47 > 0:38:50- This isn't one of the cemeteries - which opens all night.
0:38:51 > 0:38:58- Those cemeteries are in small towns - such as Xoxo and Etla.
0:38:58 > 0:39:02- Here, people can stay here - until 11 o'clock.
0:39:02 > 0:39:07- They'll have to leave after that...
0:39:07 > 0:39:12- ..because - many of the tombs are ancient.
0:39:13 > 0:39:18- Later, I'll check to see - if any damage has been caused.
0:39:18 > 0:39:23- If there's a problem, - I'll try my best to fix it.
0:39:23 > 0:39:27- If a candle has blown out, - I'll replace it.
0:39:27 > 0:39:32- We'll keep an eye - on minor details like that...
0:39:33 > 0:39:36- ..and make sure - people enjoy the spectacle.
0:39:37 > 0:39:42- But there's no restricting the fun - in Soledad de Etla.
0:39:42 > 0:39:46- This is the only place to be - if you want to party all night.
0:39:47 > 0:39:50- The crowd swells - as people arrive from Oaxaca...
0:39:51 > 0:39:56- ..and neighbouring towns to be part - of southern Mexico's best party.
0:39:56 > 0:39:59- It's been a feast - for the eyes and ears.
0:39:59 > 0:40:03- Earlier the muerteadas - marched through Soledad...
0:40:03 > 0:40:08- ..but now they've gathered together - for an onslaught of music.
0:40:08 > 0:40:12- It's been so noisy, - I can't hear myself think!
0:40:12 > 0:40:14- But it's been incredible.
0:40:15 > 0:40:18- Crikey, - these people know how to party!
0:40:20 > 0:40:24- The costumes are testament to that - - beasts, ghosts...
0:40:24 > 0:40:28- ..and exotic creatures of all kinds.
0:40:31 > 0:40:33- The celebrations are never-ending.
0:40:34 > 0:40:38- The dancing, feasting and drinking - will continue all night.
0:40:38 > 0:40:41- But it's all a bit too much - for some.
0:40:41 > 0:40:47- They must rest before the next - phase of the Dia de los Muertos.
0:40:50 > 0:40:51- .
0:40:55 > 0:40:55- Subtitles
0:40:55 > 0:40:57- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:41:03 > 0:41:06- The following day after the party...
0:41:07 > 0:41:12- ..and the celebrations - of Dia de los Muertos...
0:41:12 > 0:41:14- ..have died down a little.
0:41:18 > 0:41:20- But in Soledad de Etla...
0:41:20 > 0:41:22- ..the processions continue.
0:41:25 > 0:41:30- Everyone who can still walk make - their way to the town's cemetery...
0:41:30 > 0:41:34- ..for the final valuable hours - of the Day of the Dead.
0:41:36 > 0:41:41- Here at the colourful graves, - people are tidying and decorating.
0:41:41 > 0:41:45- They're seizing - these rare silent moments...
0:41:45 > 0:41:50- ..before saying goodbye to their - loved ones' souls for another year.
0:41:51 > 0:41:53- But the followers - of the muerteadas...
0:41:54 > 0:41:57- ..are keen to maintain the defiant - nature of the celebrations.
0:41:58 > 0:42:03- At the cemetery gate, two bands - are competing against each other.
0:42:04 > 0:42:07- There's a danger - the noisy outburst...
0:42:07 > 0:42:12- ..will turn into a physical - outburst, which has happened before.
0:42:15 > 0:42:18- But the police - are here to keep an eye on things.
0:42:20 > 0:42:24- Pipino's family pay special - attention to his mother's grave.
0:42:25 > 0:42:29- They believe her soul - is here for the first time...
0:42:29 > 0:42:31- ..since she died a year earlier.
0:42:32 > 0:42:36- Through the noise of the bands, - the memories come flooding back.
0:42:38 > 0:42:41- Quiet contemplation about death...
0:42:42 > 0:42:45- ..while others mock death - at the same time.
0:42:45 > 0:42:50- It's part of the whole gamut of - emotions during Dia de los Muertos.
0:42:52 > 0:42:54- By lunchtime...
0:42:55 > 0:42:57- ..everyone will have gone home.
0:43:04 > 0:43:08- In Oaxaca, quieter celebrations - continue until nightfall.
0:43:09 > 0:43:11- At the Panteon General...
0:43:11 > 0:43:16- ..families make the most of the - final hours to meditate and reflect.
0:43:16 > 0:43:20- The spiritual ambience - has returned to All Souls Day...
0:43:21 > 0:43:25- ..for those who believe - our loved ones are amongst us.
0:43:25 > 0:43:29- Though it's a source of comfort - for many people...
0:43:29 > 0:43:33- ..there's an element of sadness - because at the end of the day...
0:43:33 > 0:43:36- ..the deceased will depart.
0:43:37 > 0:43:41- At one graveside, - they're serving a final supper.
0:43:41 > 0:43:44- Alcohol and mole for the dead...
0:43:45 > 0:43:48- ..and turnip with chilli and lime - for the living.
0:43:52 > 0:43:56- Dia de los Muertos creates a strong - link between European religion...
0:43:57 > 0:44:00- ..and the beliefs - of Mexico's indigenous people.
0:44:05 > 0:44:09- The presence of the cross - and the skull is a clear sign...
0:44:09 > 0:44:14- ..of the way two religions have - united to create a special festival.
0:44:19 > 0:44:24- Back at his church, Father Maldonado - conducts the festival's final mass.
0:44:24 > 0:44:27- Only a small gathering - of worshippers...
0:44:28 > 0:44:30- ..have joined him.
0:44:30 > 0:44:34- They'll pray for the souls - who have since departed...
0:44:34 > 0:44:37- ..and help them - on their journey to heaven.
0:44:38 > 0:44:40- SPEAKS SPANISH
0:44:46 > 0:44:49- The wild celebrations - are finally over...
0:44:49 > 0:44:53- ..and daily life is resumed.
0:44:56 > 0:44:59- But there's still some mole left.
0:44:59 > 0:45:03- There's one - final civic event to enjoy.
0:45:11 > 0:45:15- In front of a crowd of visitors - and local people...
0:45:15 > 0:45:20- ..the city's muerteadas have come to - be blessed at the Plaza de la Danza.
0:45:22 > 0:45:25- Oaxaca's striking celebrations...
0:45:26 > 0:45:28- ..are coming to an end - for another year.
0:45:31 > 0:45:34- All the hard work - has been worthwhile.
0:45:34 > 0:45:40- Getting up very early and leaving - work late has been beneficial.
0:45:43 > 0:45:49- Everyone's happy and content, - which gives me immense satisfaction.
0:45:52 > 0:45:56- This three-day celebration in Mexico - is completely unique.
0:45:59 > 0:46:03- During Dia de los Muertos, - people make fun of death...
0:46:03 > 0:46:06- ..while respecting the dead - at the same time.
0:46:07 > 0:46:13- The muerteadas bring people - together, with scary costumes...
0:46:13 > 0:46:18- ..raucous music, mescal, tequila and - beer providing the accompaniment!
0:46:20 > 0:46:24- But beneath the wild surface - is a deep sense...
0:46:24 > 0:46:28- ..of remembrance - and a connection with friends...
0:46:28 > 0:46:30- ..and beloved relations.
0:46:31 > 0:46:36- There's no way of escaping the pain, - emptiness and grief...
0:46:37 > 0:46:39- ..which comes with death...
0:46:39 > 0:46:43- ..but these people - have found a way of challenging it.
0:46:43 > 0:46:46- Thy look death in the eyes.
0:46:46 > 0:46:51- I've been surprised because that - attitude lifts a person's spirits.
0:46:51 > 0:46:54- That's what I'll remember - of this journey.
0:47:27 > 0:47:29- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:47:29 > 0:47:29- .