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0:00:04 > 0:00:06- Festivals. Lively celebrations.
0:00:07 > 0:00:09- A feast of colours...
0:00:09 > 0:00:13- ..sounds and delicious foods...
0:00:13 > 0:00:17- ..to celebrate - the key moments of life.
0:00:17 > 0:00:20- Birth, death and marriage.
0:00:21 > 0:00:26- Across the world, people are looking - for love and a lifelong partner.
0:00:26 > 0:00:28- That one special person.
0:00:28 > 0:00:32- There are many ways - of finding him or her...
0:00:32 > 0:00:35- ..but here in the - High Atlas Mountains of Morocco...
0:00:35 > 0:00:40- ..Berber people come together - each year for a marriage festival.
0:00:40 > 0:00:44- It's a unique festival, - where 30,000 people...
0:00:44 > 0:00:49- ..come together in September - to buy and sell various produce...
0:00:49 > 0:00:52- ..and the occasional camel.
0:00:52 > 0:00:55- The hustle and bustle - provides an opportunity...
0:00:56 > 0:00:59- ..to socialise, trade - and prepare for the winter ahead.
0:01:00 > 0:01:02- But despite all the noise...
0:01:02 > 0:01:05- ..this is a festival for lovers.
0:01:05 > 0:01:09- Two people who will spot each other - through the crowd...
0:01:10 > 0:01:12- ..or will join in matrimony...
0:01:12 > 0:01:15- ..in a ceremony that transforms - the town of Imilchil.
0:01:28 > 0:01:30- The oasis city of Marrakech.
0:01:30 > 0:01:33- From here I will travel to Imilchil.
0:01:33 > 0:01:36- Over the years, traders, soldiers...
0:01:36 > 0:01:41- ..and people from all walks of life - have travelled to the Sahara...
0:01:41 > 0:01:43- ..from this city.
0:01:43 > 0:01:48- It's exciting to think I'm - travelling to the Atlas Mountains...
0:01:48 > 0:01:50- ..along the same exotic route.
0:01:51 > 0:01:53- Imilchil's marriage festival...
0:01:53 > 0:01:58- ..is a 10-hour journey eastwards - from Marrakech.
0:01:58 > 0:02:00- As we leave the urban life behind...
0:02:01 > 0:02:04- ..and approach the Atlas Mountains, - we venture into...
0:02:04 > 0:02:10- ..the completely different, private - and unique world of the Berbers.
0:02:10 > 0:02:13- I feel very fortunate - to be on this journey...
0:02:13 > 0:02:18- ..because although this festival - welcomes the occasional stranger...
0:02:18 > 0:02:22- ..and camera crew, - it's a festival solely for Berbers.
0:02:22 > 0:02:25- It's an integral part - of their lives...
0:02:25 > 0:02:30- ..and central to the ancient rituals - of the mountains' proud natives.
0:02:37 > 0:02:41- This rugged terrain, a lofty 7,000ft - in the High Atlas Mountains...
0:02:42 > 0:02:44- ..is home to the Berber tribes.
0:02:45 > 0:02:47- Indigenous people of Morocco...
0:02:47 > 0:02:52- ..who were here - long before the Romans and Arabs.
0:02:56 > 0:03:00- It was those oppressors - who first named them the Berbers...
0:03:00 > 0:03:03- ..whom they regarded as foreigners.
0:03:03 > 0:03:06- But they - call themselves Imazighen...
0:03:07 > 0:03:08- ..meaning free people.
0:03:11 > 0:03:16- Two million of them speak Tamazight - in the Central Atlas region.
0:03:20 > 0:03:23- Traditionally, they were nomadic...
0:03:24 > 0:03:27- ..herding their animals - through valleys in winter...
0:03:27 > 0:03:31- ..and high pastures during summer.
0:03:32 > 0:03:36- Different clans kept themselves - separate in the mountainous regions.
0:03:37 > 0:03:40- But their lives are changing.
0:03:42 > 0:03:46- The majority live in villages - of mud brick rather than in tents.
0:03:46 > 0:03:49- They have mobile phones - and satellite dishes.
0:03:50 > 0:03:54- Though donkeys and camels - still transport people and goods...
0:03:54 > 0:03:59- ..there are just as many lorries - on the roads nowadays.
0:04:01 > 0:04:06- Each September, the - Ait Hdidou Berbers come together...
0:04:06 > 0:04:11- ..for a traditional - marriage festival called a moussem.
0:04:11 > 0:04:14- It's a tradition spanning 500 years.
0:04:17 > 0:04:21- As the festival site is prepared, - it's hard to believe...
0:04:21 > 0:04:24- ..that the Berbers have survived - on this rugged terrain.
0:04:25 > 0:04:27- What's even more incredible...
0:04:27 > 0:04:32- ..is that they've managed - to create and maintain a festival...
0:04:32 > 0:04:38- ..in such a remote area, with many - travelling for days to reach here.
0:04:38 > 0:04:42- Some modes of transport - are quicker than others, of course.
0:04:44 > 0:04:46- Three days before the big wedding...
0:04:47 > 0:04:50- ..and there's plenty - of preparation work to be done.
0:04:51 > 0:04:53- The site of the public ceremony...
0:04:54 > 0:04:56- ..still looks like a building site.
0:04:56 > 0:05:00- But the first traders have arrived - to claim the best spots.
0:05:02 > 0:05:06- The man tasked with the duty - of hurrying the workers along...
0:05:06 > 0:05:11- ..and controlling the market - is festival organiser Mohamed Oujaa.
0:05:11 > 0:05:14- He has the final say - in the preparations.
0:05:15 > 0:05:20- That's the area for the dress - sellers, the silks and clothing.
0:05:20 > 0:05:24- Over there - will be the cafes and food tents.
0:05:24 > 0:05:28- The iron forgers and dried fruit - sellers have space over there.
0:05:31 > 0:05:34- The slopes will host - the livestock market.
0:05:35 > 0:05:39- At the top will be a platform - for the musicians and folk dancers.
0:05:42 > 0:05:47- This space here is designated - for the Berber wedding.
0:05:47 > 0:05:52- Away from all the hustle and bustle, - Mohamed Oujaa explained...
0:05:52 > 0:05:55- ..the importance of marriage - to the Berbers.
0:05:56 > 0:05:59- Choosing a partner - and creating a happy family...
0:06:00 > 0:06:02- ..is central to their way of life.
0:06:03 > 0:06:06- The children are lovely. - They're very content.
0:06:06 > 0:06:10- They never stop smiling, - which is lovely to see.
0:06:14 > 0:06:17- The most important thing is - finding a suitable and pretty wife.
0:06:18 > 0:06:20- Someone - who's willing to work with you...
0:06:20 > 0:06:24- ..to raise beautiful children - and create a happy family life.
0:06:24 > 0:06:27- These people are very welcoming.
0:06:27 > 0:06:33- But the Atlas' inhabitants are - sensitive to outside intervention.
0:06:34 > 0:06:37- Few visitors - come to Imilchil's moussem.
0:06:37 > 0:06:42- Gaining access to the bride and - groom before their wedding is rare.
0:06:46 > 0:06:51- Fortunately, I've been invited to - one of the neighbouring villages...
0:06:51 > 0:06:53- ..to one of the grooms' homes.
0:06:54 > 0:06:55- Mennou?
0:06:55 > 0:06:57- Mennou?- - Hennou.
0:06:57 > 0:06:59- Lowri.
0:06:59 > 0:07:01- Lowri, yes.
0:07:03 > 0:07:05- The groom's home - is the busiest location...
0:07:06 > 0:07:10- ..before the wedding - because traditionally...
0:07:10 > 0:07:12- ..the bride moves in with the groom.
0:07:13 > 0:07:18- Less than a week before his new wife - moves in, 26-year-old Mohamed...
0:07:18 > 0:07:22- ..and brother Abdullah - are busy painting.
0:07:22 > 0:07:26- However, their father, Zaid, - will pay them for their labour.
0:07:27 > 0:07:32- They're working well - but they must concentrate.
0:07:32 > 0:07:36- If the painting's poor, - I won't be paying them!
0:07:37 > 0:07:40- You're not going to pay?
0:07:40 > 0:07:45- They've been busy building a new - extension for two young couples...
0:07:46 > 0:07:49- ..because Abdullah too - is soon to be married.
0:07:50 > 0:07:54- As Hennou, Zaid's wife, - prepares mint tea for everyone...
0:07:54 > 0:07:59- ..she told me what she thought - of welcoming a new family member.
0:08:00 > 0:08:06- I want my son's wife to help with - the cooking and cleaning and so on.
0:08:06 > 0:08:11- Also to work in the fields, - especially at harvest time.
0:08:13 > 0:08:17- Mohamed is looking forward - to starting up home...
0:08:17 > 0:08:21- ..but he's worried he hasn't - chosen the right bedroom colour.
0:08:21 > 0:08:24- What if Fatima - doesn't like the colour?
0:08:25 > 0:08:29- If she doesn't like it, change it. - You should respect her wishes.
0:08:29 > 0:08:32- I prefer this colour.
0:08:32 > 0:08:36- There we are then. You'll - have to divide the house in two!
0:08:39 > 0:08:43- He's only met his bride-to-be twice.
0:08:43 > 0:08:46- Once to talk for an hour...
0:08:46 > 0:08:49- ..and a second time - to draw up a contract.
0:08:50 > 0:08:53- But he's happy - he's made the right decision.
0:08:54 > 0:09:00- I saw her for the first time - and thought, 'She's the one!'
0:09:02 > 0:09:07- These days, young men - tend to choose their own wives.
0:09:08 > 0:09:11- When one is certain of a girl...
0:09:11 > 0:09:16- ..he tells his parents her name - and where she lives.
0:09:17 > 0:09:20- The father - then goes to the girl's house...
0:09:21 > 0:09:23- ..to ask her parents for her hand.
0:09:26 > 0:09:31- Mohamed's bride-to-be - lives five miles away...
0:09:31 > 0:09:34- ..in the village - of Ait Ali Ou Ikkou.
0:09:34 > 0:09:38- This is a typical village - in this part of the world.
0:09:38 > 0:09:44- Farmers scrape a living - from the very sparse fertile land.
0:09:44 > 0:09:49- Apart from an occasional car, life - here hasn't changed for decades.
0:09:52 > 0:09:55- Fatima is Mohamed's bride-to-be.
0:09:55 > 0:10:00- She's 23 years old - with very little life experience...
0:10:01 > 0:10:04- ..outside the family - and the village.
0:10:04 > 0:10:07- She's very shy - and obviously nervous...
0:10:07 > 0:10:11- ..as the wedding and her - change in circumstances approach.
0:10:12 > 0:10:17- But Fatima will marry into - a relatively wealthy family.
0:10:17 > 0:10:20- To seal the marriage...
0:10:20 > 0:10:25- ..Mohamed's family has given her - gifts of clothing, henna and sugar.
0:10:25 > 0:10:28- Her father is confident - things will be fine.
0:10:29 > 0:10:34- I wish them - plenty of happiness and contentment.
0:10:34 > 0:10:42- I ask God to bless them - with money and sons...
0:10:42 > 0:10:46- ..and to give them a long life.
0:10:48 > 0:10:50- Fatima's mother was an orphan.
0:10:50 > 0:10:54- It was only - after having children of her own...
0:10:54 > 0:10:57- ..that she experienced - a happy family life.
0:10:57 > 0:11:01- It's no wonder she's worried - about losing her daughter.
0:11:01 > 0:11:06- I love my daughter - and I'd like to keep her here...
0:11:06 > 0:11:12- ..but it's our way of life.
0:11:15 > 0:11:19- Feeling nervous before getting - married is common to us all...
0:11:20 > 0:11:23- ..but as I show Fatima photos - of my own wedding...
0:11:24 > 0:11:28- ..I realised she was about - to marry someone she barely knew.
0:11:28 > 0:11:33- In a society where individuals live - with families all their lives...
0:11:34 > 0:11:37- ..marriage - leads to big changes for women...
0:11:37 > 0:11:41- ..as Hennou, - Mohamed's mother, recalls.
0:11:43 > 0:11:50- I felt happy and scared - at the same time.
0:11:50 > 0:11:56- This is how someone feels before - getting married for the first time.
0:11:59 > 0:12:01- Zaid is Hennou's second husband.
0:12:01 > 0:12:04- She was unhappy - with her first husband...
0:12:04 > 0:12:07- ..who her father had chosen for her.
0:12:07 > 0:12:12- Since Islam allows divorce, - it wasn't hard to end the marriage.
0:12:12 > 0:12:17- She's happy women have more say - nowadays in choosing their partners.
0:12:19 > 0:12:25- The first time I met my husband, - we spoke and he said he loved me.
0:12:25 > 0:12:31- When he asked me to marry him - I refused, but my father insisted.
0:12:31 > 0:12:34- My father made a mistake.
0:12:34 > 0:12:38- For Hennou, her marriage to Zaid - has been much happier.
0:12:38 > 0:12:43- But her story shows that - marrying in the Berber tradition...
0:12:43 > 0:12:46- ..isn't always a success.
0:12:48 > 0:12:52- While Mohamed and his family - take a break from preparations...
0:12:52 > 0:12:56- ..things are gathering speed - at the festival site.
0:12:57 > 0:13:00- Mr Oujaa's challenge - is to erect the wedding tent.
0:13:01 > 0:13:03- In three days' time, - the moussem will be held here.
0:13:04 > 0:13:09- 36 couples will marry in a ceremony - that will unite the community.
0:13:09 > 0:13:14- But lurking in the background - is a history of war and conflict...
0:13:14 > 0:13:16- ..which divided the people.
0:13:16 > 0:13:17- .
0:13:21 > 0:13:21- Subtitles
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0:13:26 > 0:13:28- In the High Atlas Mountains...
0:13:28 > 0:13:31- ..the Berber people - scrape a living...
0:13:32 > 0:13:37- ..on rugged slopes and high valleys - 7,000 feet above sea level.
0:13:37 > 0:13:39- Life is hard.
0:13:39 > 0:13:44- But the community - is rich in tradition and history.
0:13:46 > 0:13:50- An annual event which brings - colour and mirth to the area...
0:13:50 > 0:13:53- ..in Imilchil's marriage festival.
0:13:53 > 0:13:56- Each September, the mountains' - tribes come together...
0:13:57 > 0:14:01- ..to provide an opportunity - for their young people to marry.
0:14:02 > 0:14:05- This a tradition that has lasted - more than 500 years.
0:14:06 > 0:14:10- Over the centuries, the Berbers - have had to defend their land...
0:14:10 > 0:14:12- ..from oppressors...
0:14:13 > 0:14:15- ..and sometimes against each other.
0:14:15 > 0:14:20- Ironically, there's a close link - between that conflict...
0:14:20 > 0:14:22- ..and the marriage festival.
0:14:22 > 0:14:26- On the outskirts of Imilchil - are two strange lakes...
0:14:26 > 0:14:29- ..in the heart of the high pastures.
0:14:29 > 0:14:35- Lake Tislit, Bride's Lake, - and Lake Isli, Groom's Lake.
0:14:39 > 0:14:43- There was fierce competition - between two Berber tribes...
0:14:43 > 0:14:48- ..over the control - of grazing pasture in the valley.
0:14:48 > 0:14:50- It led to conflict.
0:14:50 > 0:14:54- It's a similar story - to that of Romeo and Juliet...
0:14:54 > 0:14:57- ..which is part - of the lakes' mythology...
0:14:57 > 0:15:01- ..and become part of - the marriage festival's romance.
0:15:01 > 0:15:05- I met Lahcen Oubou, - one of the festival's officials...
0:15:05 > 0:15:07- ..who explained the history.
0:15:10 > 0:15:13- They fell in love - and decided to marry.
0:15:13 > 0:15:16- But there were problems - and disputes between the tribes.
0:15:16 > 0:15:21- They were enemies. The boy's parents - refused to let him marry the girl.
0:15:21 > 0:15:26- As the marriage was forbidden, - the lakes were created...
0:15:27 > 0:15:33- ..by the tears of the girl from Ait - Ezza and the boy from Ait Brahim.
0:15:33 > 0:15:36- Both were heartbroken.
0:15:36 > 0:15:39- With no hope of ever - seeing each other ever again...
0:15:40 > 0:15:44- ..they drowned each other in - the lakes their tears had created.
0:15:44 > 0:15:48- There's a scientific - but less romantic explanation...
0:15:49 > 0:15:51- ..but nonetheless as interesting.
0:15:51 > 0:15:55- Two meteorites hit Earth - and created the site of these lakes.
0:16:01 > 0:16:05- Lahcen Oubou gave me - the scientific explanation too.
0:16:05 > 0:16:07- He's one of the local Berber...
0:16:08 > 0:16:12- ..who's proud of the way education - has opened up possibilities...
0:16:12 > 0:16:14- ..for himself and his family.
0:16:14 > 0:16:18- He was raised - in a stone hut near Lake Isli.
0:16:18 > 0:16:21- It's where - his family lived in summer...
0:16:21 > 0:16:24- ..when they took - their sheep to higher pastures.
0:16:25 > 0:16:27- He was - expected to follow the same path.
0:16:29 > 0:16:36- Our fathers didn't want us to study, - but luckily, I finished my studies.
0:16:36 > 0:16:40- A school was built in our village - and that helped me.
0:16:40 > 0:16:44- During the holidays, I came back - and worked with my father.
0:16:44 > 0:16:52- But when the sheep were sold, - I could focus on my studies.
0:16:54 > 0:16:57- In a changing world, - Lahcen is eager...
0:16:57 > 0:17:00- ..for his own children - to be educated.
0:17:01 > 0:17:09- I wish them a bright future, to - study hard and have important jobs.
0:17:09 > 0:17:16- Also for the region's prosperity - in order to eradicate poverty.
0:17:17 > 0:17:21- But Lahcen's vision - of eradicating poverty...
0:17:22 > 0:17:25- ..is still a long way - from the reality of daily life.
0:17:29 > 0:17:32- Agriculture - is the backbone of the economy.
0:17:32 > 0:17:35- Mohamed and his family's lives - are typical of those...
0:17:36 > 0:17:38- ..living in the mountains.
0:17:41 > 0:17:44- They grow vegetable crops, - corn and potatoes...
0:17:44 > 0:17:47- ..and keep livestock - on the slopes above the farm.
0:17:51 > 0:17:54- Farming here is physically taxing.
0:17:54 > 0:17:57- The fields are small - and crops are harvested by hand.
0:17:58 > 0:18:01- Though the summers are dry, - plenty of streams...
0:18:01 > 0:18:04- ..provide water for irrigation.
0:18:05 > 0:18:11- With a wedding - and a new home to pay for...
0:18:11 > 0:18:14- ..Mohamed must work hard this year.
0:18:15 > 0:18:19- Berber brides don't bring dowries - from their families.
0:18:20 > 0:18:25- Mohamed's family must buy furniture - and carpets before Fatima arrives.
0:18:26 > 0:18:29- But he's confident - the hard work is worth it...
0:18:30 > 0:18:33- ..and the marriage - will be a success.
0:18:33 > 0:18:43- I ask God to bless our marriage - and guide us along the right path.
0:18:45 > 0:18:53- I hope my dear wife will - listen to me, even if she disagrees!
0:18:56 > 0:18:58- I think he's talking - tongue-in-cheek!
0:18:58 > 0:19:02- Though he's getting married - in an age-old ceremony...
0:19:02 > 0:19:07- ..Mohamed knows that the days - when a man controlled his wife...
0:19:07 > 0:19:10- ..are changing.
0:19:10 > 0:19:15- It's true of the Berbers' society - and politics too.
0:19:16 > 0:19:20- The Berbers speak their own - language, making them different...
0:19:20 > 0:19:23- ..from others in Morocco - who speak Arabic.
0:19:23 > 0:19:26- They have their own TV channel...
0:19:26 > 0:19:29- ..and their language - has gained official status.
0:19:29 > 0:19:31- Sounds familiar?
0:19:31 > 0:19:35- In light of - the Arab Spring uprising in 2010...
0:19:36 > 0:19:41- ..the Berber have been publicly - campaigning for democratic rights.
0:19:41 > 0:19:44- On this stall...
0:19:44 > 0:19:47- ..badges and banners - present a clear message.
0:19:47 > 0:19:50- The unification - of tribes in the north...
0:19:50 > 0:19:54- ..with those in the mountains and - those in the Sahara in the south.
0:19:54 > 0:19:58- This new political confidence...
0:19:58 > 0:20:01- ..is impacting on women's lives.
0:20:03 > 0:20:07- On one stall, one co-operative has - travelled from the Sahara region.
0:20:08 > 0:20:12- They will bake and sell bread - during the festival.
0:20:12 > 0:20:15- Their visit - is to promote their crafts...
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- ..in the hope of attracting a - business partner for the venture.
0:20:20 > 0:20:22- Like their leader, Fatima Moumoua...
0:20:22 > 0:20:25- ..they work to secure independence.
0:20:26 > 0:20:32- We're under pressure to sell enough - bread to cover our travel costs...
0:20:32 > 0:20:38- ..but we're also trying to promote - our work and attract business.
0:20:38 > 0:20:42- One man is part of the venture - but it doesn't work very well.
0:20:42 > 0:20:49- It'd be better if society - were governed my women.
0:20:49 > 0:20:52- Things - are gradually improving for women.
0:20:52 > 0:20:55- Small steps lead to change.
0:20:57 > 0:20:59- It's getting busy at the site.
0:20:59 > 0:21:03- Mr Oujaa - has to keep an eye on things.
0:21:03 > 0:21:08- One vegetable seller has set up - his stall in a popular spot.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11- Among his produce is a plant...
0:21:11 > 0:21:15- ..which turns teeth an attractive - yellow colour when chewed.
0:21:15 > 0:21:20- The complete opposite of what we're - encouraged to aspire to by TV ads!
0:21:23 > 0:21:26- But Mr Oujaa has no time - for romantic rubbish like that.
0:21:27 > 0:21:29- The seller has no right to be here.
0:21:30 > 0:21:32- But he refuses to move.
0:21:35 > 0:21:38- Mr Oujaa insists, - and with the help of a solider...
0:21:38 > 0:21:41- ..the belligerent seller moves...
0:21:41 > 0:21:46- ..and sets up his stall - close to where he was originally.
0:21:48 > 0:21:53- By the end of the day, the festival - site is starting to take shape.
0:21:53 > 0:21:56- Livestock is beginning to arrive...
0:21:56 > 0:21:59- ..for the year's biggest market.
0:21:59 > 0:22:02- The place will be - a hive of activity by morning.
0:22:12 > 0:22:16- The first day of the marriage - festival, the moussem, dawns.
0:22:17 > 0:22:22- Before the activities begin, they - must adhere to the faith's rules...
0:22:22 > 0:22:26- ..even on the slopes - above the festival site.
0:22:27 > 0:22:30- Out in the country, - at Mohamed's home...
0:22:30 > 0:22:34- ..the family prepares the bull - for the livestock market.
0:22:39 > 0:22:44- I'm cleaning the bull - so that he looks his best.
0:22:48 > 0:22:51- We need the money...
0:22:51 > 0:22:55- ..to buy things for the wedding.
0:23:04 > 0:23:08- The market is more than 10 - miles away, but it's hard enough...
0:23:08 > 0:23:10- ..moving the bull 100 yards...
0:23:11 > 0:23:14- ..let alone 10 miles - to the festival site.
0:23:16 > 0:23:20- All the neighbours turn up - to see what's going on.
0:23:20 > 0:23:23- I thought it was safer - to keep out of the way.
0:23:27 > 0:23:32- Few farmers own vehicles, but - plenty of small local businesses...
0:23:32 > 0:23:34- ..offer a transport service.
0:23:34 > 0:23:39- Mohamed's family has hired a pick-up - to take the bull to market...
0:23:39 > 0:23:41- ..if they can get him on board.
0:23:45 > 0:23:50- With one task over, the next task - is to get a good price for the bull.
0:23:52 > 0:23:58- I'll get 17,000 dirham - for the bull, God willing.
0:24:00 > 0:24:03- The next few hours - are crucial for Mohamed.
0:24:25 > 0:24:29- Many more stalls and traders have - squeezed into the site by now...
0:24:29 > 0:24:34- ..but it's the livestock market - which attracts the most attention...
0:24:34 > 0:24:36- ..on the first day of the moussem.
0:24:39 > 0:24:43- The donkey market is a place - of sharp haggling over prices.
0:24:43 > 0:24:48- This is by far the most - useful animal for mountain farmers.
0:24:51 > 0:24:53- But Mohamed is among the cattle.
0:24:53 > 0:24:56- It's an age-old scene.
0:24:59 > 0:25:01- A crowd of men, on the whole...
0:25:01 > 0:25:03- ..inspecting the stock...
0:25:04 > 0:25:08- ..haggling over prices and making - every effort to seal a bargain.
0:25:11 > 0:25:13- The haggling has begun.
0:25:13 > 0:25:18- Getting a good price for this bull - is vital for Mohamed and his family.
0:25:18 > 0:25:22- The more they get for him, - the bigger the celebration.
0:25:22 > 0:25:25- As this is the most valuable item - they possess...
0:25:26 > 0:25:30- ..it shows you how important - marriage is to the Berbers.
0:25:30 > 0:25:33- A new extension - and the sale of a bull.
0:25:33 > 0:25:37- Marriage is an expensive business, - even over here!
0:25:42 > 0:25:45- Before long, - an Arab dealer offers a price.
0:25:50 > 0:25:54- But 15,000 dirham - is his highest price.
0:25:54 > 0:25:57- It's 2,500 less than Mohamed wants.
0:25:59 > 0:26:01- Mohamed stands his ground.
0:26:01 > 0:26:06- It's been quite serious. - They've been haggling for the bull.
0:26:07 > 0:26:10- I hope Mohamed - gets the price he wants for it.
0:26:10 > 0:26:13- He told me around 1,500 euros.
0:26:14 > 0:26:21- I'm not happy with that price. - I want an increase on his offer.
0:26:24 > 0:26:29- This three-day festival in Imilchil - is important for many reasons.
0:26:29 > 0:26:31- There's a lot at stake.
0:26:33 > 0:26:37- Fatima Moumoua and her friends - have spent 100 euros getting here.
0:26:37 > 0:26:43- It's a fortune for them, and - they must sell 800 loaves a day...
0:26:44 > 0:26:46- ..to claw their money back.
0:26:46 > 0:26:48- They have only sold 100 so far.
0:26:48 > 0:26:53- She's determined to make a living - for herself and the others.
0:26:54 > 0:27:00- Our village is poor. I have - sewing skills but there's no work.
0:27:00 > 0:27:04- It's a terrible situation. - It's not fair relying on parents.
0:27:04 > 0:27:06- You have to be independent.
0:27:06 > 0:27:11- My parents divorced - when I was a child...
0:27:11 > 0:27:15- ..so I must stand - on my own two feet.
0:27:17 > 0:27:20- I like working with women - because it's more beneficial.
0:27:21 > 0:27:24- Men can travel far away - in search of work.
0:27:25 > 0:27:29- As women, - we want to work in our own village.
0:27:29 > 0:27:34- We hope we find someone - to support our business.
0:27:34 > 0:27:38- So many girls leave school early - and they need to find work.
0:27:39 > 0:27:41- I'm enthusiastic about the venture.
0:27:42 > 0:27:47- You can see that from the way she - has worked with the other women...
0:27:47 > 0:27:53- ..but even this strong character - is searching for personal happiness.
0:27:53 > 0:27:58- Frankly, I want to marry, especially - if I find the right person.
0:28:01 > 0:28:03- Life is hard for the Berber women.
0:28:04 > 0:28:06- For Fatima, who lives alone...
0:28:06 > 0:28:09- ..the personal battles - are even harder...
0:28:10 > 0:28:14- ..because the archetypal - role of the woman in society...
0:28:14 > 0:28:17- ..can be difficult - for an individual.
0:28:17 > 0:28:22- Something tells me that pressure - is worse up here in the mountains.
0:28:22 > 0:28:27- But I'm pleased to see Fatima, - along with the other women...
0:28:27 > 0:28:30- ..coming together - and creating a business...
0:28:31 > 0:28:33- ..to secure a better future.
0:28:33 > 0:28:37- I'd say - they're exceptionally brave women.
0:28:37 > 0:28:37- .
0:28:42 > 0:28:42- Subtitles
0:28:42 > 0:28:44- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:28:44 > 0:28:48- Every September, - thousands of Berber people...
0:28:48 > 0:28:53- ..celebrate a special festival in - the High Atlas Mountains in Morocco.
0:28:53 > 0:28:57- Over a three-day period, - they congregate in Imilchil...
0:28:58 > 0:29:00- ..to buy and sell before winter...
0:29:00 > 0:29:05- ..and to witness the marriage - of dozens of young couples...
0:29:05 > 0:29:07- ..in a unique ceremony.
0:29:09 > 0:29:13- On the second day of the festival...
0:29:13 > 0:29:18- ..there's been an injection - of uncertainty into preparations.
0:29:21 > 0:29:24- A day before the wedding - and we've just heard...
0:29:24 > 0:29:29- ..that the judge has summoned - all the couples to his office...
0:29:29 > 0:29:33- ..in order to make sure - all the paperwork is in order.
0:29:33 > 0:29:36- Mohamed and Fatima are among them.
0:29:36 > 0:29:39- This will be - only the third time they've met.
0:29:39 > 0:29:42- Everyone is slightly confused.
0:29:43 > 0:29:45- They were summoned unexpectedly.
0:29:46 > 0:29:51- Fatima, who lives - closer to the town than Mohamed...
0:29:51 > 0:29:54- ..was here on time - but Mohamed was late.
0:29:54 > 0:29:57- He didn't look too happy.
0:29:57 > 0:30:01- But they must adhere to the rules, - as Lahcen Oubou explains.
0:30:04 > 0:30:06- The judge will arrive today...
0:30:06 > 0:30:10- ..to see if the marriage documents - for each couple are in order.
0:30:11 > 0:30:14- Tomorrow is the act - of officially writing the contract.
0:30:15 > 0:30:19- They must be careful - with such a sensitive matter.
0:30:19 > 0:30:21- The Moudawana reforms of 2004...
0:30:22 > 0:30:24- ..have had a major impact - on family law.
0:30:26 > 0:30:30- As a result, the legal age to marry - has been raised to 18.
0:30:30 > 0:30:34- There are restrictions - on having more than one wife...
0:30:34 > 0:30:38- ..and women cannot be married - against their will.
0:30:40 > 0:30:42- But as Mohamed exits the court...
0:30:43 > 0:30:46- ..the bureaucracy - has been a test of his patience.
0:30:48 > 0:30:52- Lots of couples didn't turn up - to court despite being summoned.
0:30:52 > 0:30:58- Only those who live far away - or cannot be contacted aren't here.
0:30:58 > 0:31:01- What if I hadn't come?
0:31:01 > 0:31:05- The important thing now is that - the paperwork is ready for tomorrow.
0:31:05 > 0:31:09- After registering, - people head for Imilchil's cafes.
0:31:09 > 0:31:14- The morning's events - provide fodder for conversation...
0:31:14 > 0:31:17- ..reflecting contrasting views - about marriage.
0:31:18 > 0:31:20- One of those is Mehdi Chabou...
0:31:21 > 0:31:24- ..who's enjoying a coffee - with his friends.
0:31:24 > 0:31:27- He's studying English - at university...
0:31:27 > 0:31:30- ..and likes returning to - his parents' home near Imilchil.
0:31:31 > 0:31:33- He's broadening his horizons.
0:31:33 > 0:31:39- I insisted on studying. It's the key - to success and a way out of poverty.
0:31:40 > 0:31:45- Some believe if you're planning the - year ahead, you should plant rice.
0:31:46 > 0:31:51- If you're thinking seven years - ahead, you should plant trees.
0:31:51 > 0:31:56- Think a century ahead and you should - plant awareness and knowledge.
0:31:56 > 0:32:01- Mehdi represents the attitude - of the younger generation...
0:32:01 > 0:32:05- ..who think of love and marriage - in a more modern and global way.
0:32:06 > 0:32:13- It would be hard for me to marry a - girl after meeting her for an hour.
0:32:13 > 0:32:19- It'd be a dangerous decision - because we wouldn't know each other.
0:32:19 > 0:32:21- It'd be impossible - for me to do such a thing.
0:32:21 > 0:32:27- In direct contrast - to Mehdi's story...
0:32:27 > 0:32:32- ..Lahcen is advising Ali, who wants - to marry his 15-year-old girlfriend.
0:32:34 > 0:32:39- A judge can use his discretion - if a girl is between 15 and 18...
0:32:40 > 0:32:44- ..but in light of the Moudawana - code, it's a contentious issue.
0:32:44 > 0:32:51- The problem here - is that the girl is still a minor.
0:32:51 > 0:33:01- The Moudawana code doesn't allow - people under 18 years to marry.
0:33:01 > 0:33:06- This makes writing the - marriage contract very difficult.
0:33:06 > 0:33:09- Ali must prove - that the girl's father is happy...
0:33:10 > 0:33:12- ..before the marriage can go ahead.
0:33:12 > 0:33:15- After filling out all the forms...
0:33:16 > 0:33:21- ..it's a nervous time - awaiting the judge's decision.
0:33:35 > 0:33:38- The second day of the festival - is on a Friday...
0:33:38 > 0:33:41- ..the most important day - of the week for Muslims.
0:33:42 > 0:33:46- The buying and selling - grinds to a halt for the Jumu'ah...
0:33:46 > 0:33:50- ..the Islamic congregational prayers - which start at midday.
0:33:51 > 0:33:54- The overspill of worshippers...
0:33:54 > 0:33:58- ..sit on makeshift prayer mats - facing Mecca.
0:33:58 > 0:34:04- The service begins amid the sounds - of the market and the animals.
0:34:04 > 0:34:09- It's a scene which adds to - the festival's unique character.
0:34:13 > 0:34:17- Imilchil's moussem - is full of interesting contrasts.
0:34:19 > 0:34:21- SPEAKS NATIVE LANGUAGE
0:34:21 > 0:34:25- Mehdi wanders around - with his cousin...
0:34:25 > 0:34:29- ..and these two modern young men - can't walk pass a stall...
0:34:30 > 0:34:34- ..selling porcupine quills - as aphrodisiacs.
0:34:35 > 0:34:37- It may be fun for Mehdi...
0:34:38 > 0:34:44- ..but plenty of people believe that - mercury works as an aphrodisiac.
0:34:47 > 0:34:50- I didn't expect - to see aphrodisiacs here...
0:34:50 > 0:34:54- ..especially not in the form - of porcupine quills.
0:34:54 > 0:34:58- Although this is meant - for men as well as women...
0:34:58 > 0:35:02- ..it's mostly women - who trust its aphrodisiac power!
0:35:04 > 0:35:06- Perhaps it does work...
0:35:07 > 0:35:10- ..because the flirting - is outrageous.
0:35:10 > 0:35:14- The girls here - are far more open than I'd imagined.
0:35:14 > 0:35:19- That goes for the boys too. - Bonjour. Bonjour. Ca va?
0:35:22 > 0:35:25- I don't think they're - meant to talk to strangers...
0:35:26 > 0:35:28- ..especially as I'm a woman too!
0:35:29 > 0:35:32- Of course, - many stick to tradition...
0:35:33 > 0:35:35- ..and behave more modestly.
0:35:36 > 0:35:38- Most of the couples - who will marry tomorrow...
0:35:39 > 0:35:43- ..have used family connections - and friends to find a partner.
0:35:43 > 0:35:47- There was a time when people - were allowed to meet and marry...
0:35:47 > 0:35:50- ..on the same day - during the festival.
0:35:50 > 0:35:55- Perhaps there are those - who wish that could still happen!
0:35:56 > 0:36:01- I'd love to get married here and - take my wife back to my hometown.
0:36:01 > 0:36:06- There I would teach her our dialect - and hope she had the same mentality.
0:36:06 > 0:36:10- The women of Imilchil work hard.
0:36:10 > 0:36:13- Our women are beautiful too...
0:36:13 > 0:36:20- ..but recently, they've started - drinking alcohol and smoking.
0:36:20 > 0:36:22- It's scandalous!
0:36:23 > 0:36:28- I love the Imilchil women - because they have nice dark eyes.
0:36:28 > 0:36:36- I love the way they look and - their beautiful traditional dress.
0:36:36 > 0:36:42- Thank goodness the rain came - to dampen the erotic tension!
0:36:44 > 0:36:47- But hopefully - the rain won't spoil the fun...
0:36:48 > 0:36:52- ..as the final - and most important day approaches.
0:36:52 > 0:36:56- As we all know in Wales, - at the end of the day...
0:36:56 > 0:36:59- ..everything's dictated - by the weather.
0:37:11 > 0:37:13- The big day, - the climax of the Imilchil festival.
0:37:14 > 0:37:19- At Fatima's home, - the family has breakfast together.
0:37:22 > 0:37:26- Only her father - will accompany her to the ceremony.
0:37:26 > 0:37:31- The rest will participate when - Fatima moves in with Mohamed...
0:37:31 > 0:37:33- ..in a few days' time.
0:37:34 > 0:37:37- The previous nerves have passed...
0:37:37 > 0:37:40- ..and Fatima is in good spirits.
0:37:42 > 0:37:47- Fatima's mother goes to fetch the - most important item of clothing...
0:37:47 > 0:37:49- ..for every bride - the handira.
0:37:50 > 0:37:52- The blanket Fatima will wear...
0:37:52 > 0:37:56- ..as a symbol of the new life - that is about to begin.
0:37:58 > 0:38:02- Some women - wear white handiras with sequins...
0:38:02 > 0:38:07- ..while others, like Fatima, - wear more traditional handiras.
0:38:09 > 0:38:13- The black, red and white stripes - symbolise peace and an open heart.
0:38:13 > 0:38:16- It's typical - of the Ait Ezza tribe...
0:38:16 > 0:38:20- ..which shows that Fatima - belongs to the same tribe...
0:38:21 > 0:38:24- ..as the girl in the legend - of Imilchil's lakes.
0:38:26 > 0:38:28- It's nice and warm, isn't it?
0:38:29 > 0:38:32- Time to leave, - and Fatima makes her way to a car...
0:38:32 > 0:38:36- ..that is waiting - to take her to the moussem.
0:38:37 > 0:38:40- Unlike us, the Berber tribe...
0:38:41 > 0:38:44- ..don't make a big fuss - of the wedding day itself.
0:38:44 > 0:38:48- Today is part of - a series of meetings...
0:38:49 > 0:38:51- ..that have taken place...
0:38:51 > 0:38:54- ..since Mohamed - showed an interest in Fatima.
0:38:55 > 0:38:58- The ceremony in the moussem tent - is the final step...
0:38:58 > 0:39:02- ..and the most colourful step - of the marriage custom...
0:39:02 > 0:39:07- ..before Fatima moves in with - her new family in a few days' time.
0:39:09 > 0:39:13- There are last-minute preparations - in the marriage tent.
0:39:14 > 0:39:15- Unlike us in Wales...
0:39:16 > 0:39:19- ..the women of Imilchil - must arrive on time.
0:39:21 > 0:39:25- Like every wedding, - the women look beautiful.
0:39:25 > 0:39:29- They're in their best clothes. - The boys don't look too bad either.
0:39:30 > 0:39:34- Hundreds of people have turned up - to enjoy this special occasion.
0:39:34 > 0:39:39- I'm sure one or two among them - hope to be in this tent next year.
0:39:40 > 0:39:44- Half the Berber weddings - in this mountainous region...
0:39:44 > 0:39:47- ..take place in the moussem.
0:39:47 > 0:39:49- It's an important occasion.
0:39:49 > 0:39:54- In the wedding tent, the young men - and officials like Lahcen...
0:39:54 > 0:39:57- ..look very striking - in their formal wear.
0:39:58 > 0:40:02- The traditional dress is white, - including the jelaba.
0:40:02 > 0:40:07- I still need white shoes - to look like the young grooms.
0:40:07 > 0:40:15- But I left my shoes in Imilchil - because I feared it would rain.
0:40:16 > 0:40:19- Government officials - wear suits and ties.
0:40:20 > 0:40:23- Their presence - shows how the authorities...
0:40:24 > 0:40:28- ..keep an eye on events - in Morocco's remotest locations.
0:40:30 > 0:40:35- The government still controls - every aspect of public life.
0:40:35 > 0:40:40- Registering these marriages is a way - of updating the country's census.
0:40:42 > 0:40:44- There's media coverage too.
0:40:44 > 0:40:48- Crews from the Berber TV channel - as well as international channels...
0:40:49 > 0:40:52- ..jostling for - the best vantage points.
0:40:54 > 0:40:56- IMAM SINGS IN NATIVE LANGUAGE
0:40:58 > 0:41:02- The ceremony officially begins - with the Imam's prayer.
0:41:04 > 0:41:07- After receiving Allah's blessing...
0:41:08 > 0:41:12- ..there's a more bureaucratic air - to the rest of the ceremony.
0:41:16 > 0:41:21- For a romantic occasion, - I'm looking at 36 young couples...
0:41:22 > 0:41:26- ..preparing to unite in matrimony...
0:41:26 > 0:41:29- ..and none of them - are speaking to one another.
0:41:30 > 0:41:33- I'm sure - they're very nervous, happy...
0:41:33 > 0:41:36- ..and excited, but I find it odd...
0:41:36 > 0:41:39- ..that none of them - are talking to each other.
0:41:41 > 0:41:46- As with any wedding, there's - a legal and social format to follow.
0:41:47 > 0:41:50- In a communal ceremony - such as this, there's less room...
0:41:51 > 0:41:55- ..to express - personal and romantic feelings.
0:41:55 > 0:41:58- Among the 36 couples - marrying today...
0:41:58 > 0:42:02- ..are Ali - and his 15-year-old girlfriend.
0:42:02 > 0:42:05- The judge has allowed their union.
0:42:09 > 0:42:12- Mohamed and Fatima - are the next couple to register.
0:42:12 > 0:42:14- They submit the paperwork.
0:42:18 > 0:42:20- Everything is in order...
0:42:20 > 0:42:24- ..and they receive a gift - of 1,000 dirham from the state.
0:42:26 > 0:42:30- Showing no emotion or - any public display of affection...
0:42:30 > 0:42:32- ..husband and wife - Mohamed and Fatima...
0:42:33 > 0:42:37- ..rush from the tent - and disappear into the crowd.
0:42:37 > 0:42:39- Formal proceedings are over.
0:42:39 > 0:42:42- Public celebrations follow.
0:42:42 > 0:42:42- .
0:42:46 > 0:42:46- Subtitles
0:42:46 > 0:42:48- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:42:54 > 0:42:58- Half the young people who have - married in the Atlas Mountains...
0:42:58 > 0:43:04- ..have chosen to follow a custom - that has lasted more than 500 years.
0:43:04 > 0:43:07- They have married - in Imilchil's moussem.
0:43:07 > 0:43:11- The wedding itself - is a bureaucratic procedure...
0:43:11 > 0:43:17- ..but the atmosphere changes - once the registration is over.
0:43:17 > 0:43:20- Now official proceedings are over...
0:43:20 > 0:43:24- ..it's time for the climax - of the three days to begin.
0:43:24 > 0:43:28- After the buying, selling - and preparing for the ceremony...
0:43:28 > 0:43:32- ..it's time for everyone, - including the married couples...
0:43:32 > 0:43:36- ..to gather here in the square - not only to celebrate....
0:43:37 > 0:43:41- ..but to emphasise - and reinforce society's values.
0:43:42 > 0:43:44- The Ahidous dancers lead the way.
0:43:44 > 0:43:49- Their performance is the focus - of every traditional celebration.
0:43:52 > 0:43:56- One of the rituals - is the sharing of bread.
0:43:56 > 0:44:00- An enormous loaf is shared as - a symbol of an abundant harvest...
0:44:00 > 0:44:04- ..and the unity - of the newlyweds' families.
0:44:11 > 0:44:16- Another important ritual - is the bridal procession.
0:44:18 > 0:44:20- A young bride...
0:44:20 > 0:44:23- ..rides a white mule...
0:44:23 > 0:44:27- ..accompanied by a goat - symbolising wealth...
0:44:27 > 0:44:29- ..and a boy representing fertility.
0:44:30 > 0:44:33- She's on her way - to her husband's home.
0:44:33 > 0:44:36- The mock fighting - with palm branches...
0:44:36 > 0:44:38- ..is a ritual testing - of the groom...
0:44:39 > 0:44:43- ..to see if he has the patience - necessary to be a good husband.
0:44:45 > 0:44:49- The boy on the back of the mule - is Mr Oujaa's son.
0:44:54 > 0:44:56- The smile on his father's face...
0:44:56 > 0:45:01- ..show's how proud he is of his - son's prominent role in the ritual.
0:45:10 > 0:45:14- The old tradition of matrimony - is still popular here.
0:45:14 > 0:45:19- But as with all aspects of the - Berbers' lives, times are changing.
0:45:22 > 0:45:26- A pride in Berber identity - and a sense of belonging...
0:45:26 > 0:45:31- ..is strengthening in some ways, - though expectations are changing.
0:45:31 > 0:45:34- Lahcen Oubou - hopes his own daughters...
0:45:35 > 0:45:39- ..will take advantage of the - opportunities that are emerging.
0:45:39 > 0:45:41- I want them - to be able to do any job.
0:45:42 > 0:45:45- I want them to have the freedom - to choose their own husbands.
0:45:46 > 0:45:55- Nowadays, many things have changed - due to technology, TV and media.
0:45:55 > 0:46:02- It makes you reflect on issues like - marriage and marital relationships.
0:46:05 > 0:46:11- Having lived outside of Imilchil has - changed Mehdi Chabou's attitude too.
0:46:11 > 0:46:14- I don't want to - think about marriage.
0:46:14 > 0:46:17- I'd rather focus on my education.
0:46:18 > 0:46:25- I want to work and get a good job - in order to pay back my parents.
0:46:25 > 0:46:28- Then I can think of marriage.
0:46:31 > 0:46:33- The Berber way of life is changing.
0:46:33 > 0:46:35- There are opportunities for women...
0:46:36 > 0:46:38- ..and the young - are broadening their horizons.
0:46:39 > 0:46:43- How will that affect the Imilchil - festival in years to come?
0:46:43 > 0:46:45- Who knows?
0:46:49 > 0:46:53- Seeing Mohamed and Fatima, - the newlyweds...
0:46:53 > 0:46:57- ..walking around together, - shopping for their new home...
0:46:58 > 0:47:01- ..and enjoying - a glass of orange juice...
0:47:01 > 0:47:05- ..suggests that the traditional way - of getting married....
0:47:05 > 0:47:09- ..is still as relevant in - this remote region of north Africa.
0:47:19 > 0:47:23- Stepping into the private lives - of the Berbers has been a privilege.
0:47:24 > 0:47:27- Their welcome and hospitality - towards me as a stranger...
0:47:28 > 0:47:30- ..has been wonderful.
0:47:30 > 0:47:32- Though not financially rich...
0:47:33 > 0:47:35- ..they are rich in contentment.
0:47:36 > 0:47:40- Not everyone has the opportunity - to share key moments in life...
0:47:40 > 0:47:43- ..and be part of these celebrations.
0:47:43 > 0:47:45- SPEAKS TAMAZIGHT
0:47:45 > 0:47:49- Thank you, free people, - it's been a pleasure.
0:47:52 > 0:47:55- Celebrations continue - well into the night.
0:47:55 > 0:47:58- There'll be more celebrating...
0:47:58 > 0:48:01- ..when Fatima - moves in with Mohamed's family.
0:48:02 > 0:48:04- Their big journey has begun.
0:48:04 > 0:48:07- Let's hope - they find happiness together.
0:48:40 > 0:48:42- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:48:42 > 0:48:42- .