Cree

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0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888

0:00:00 > 0:00:02- 888- - 888

0:00:04 > 0:00:09- I'm Iolo Williams and I'm nearing - the end of my epic journey...

0:00:09 > 0:00:12- ..around Native American tribes.

0:00:14 > 0:00:17- From the Navajo to the Cherokee...

0:00:17 > 0:00:20- ..from the wild west - to the mountainous north...

0:00:21 > 0:00:24- ..I've fulfilled a dream - by meeting unique tribes...

0:00:24 > 0:00:27- ..who are living - in the traditional way.

0:00:27 > 0:00:31- I've learnt - about their culture, language...

0:00:31 > 0:00:35- ..spiritual beliefs - and harmony with nature.

0:00:36 > 0:00:41- From their tragic past, I explore - the future for the Native Americans.

0:00:42 > 0:00:44- Join me on the final leg - of my journey...

0:00:45 > 0:00:49- ..across one of the world's - most striking continents.

0:01:04 > 0:01:07- I'm travelling - to the far north of Canada...

0:01:08 > 0:01:11- ..an area only accessible - by float plane.

0:01:11 > 0:01:13- The landscape - is a tapestry of lakes...

0:01:14 > 0:01:18- ..and the vast wilderness - is covered in dense woodland.

0:01:19 > 0:01:21- Welcome to Cree country.

0:01:23 > 0:01:25- This is the story of a nation...

0:01:26 > 0:01:30- ..stepping over the threshold - from the past into the modern world.

0:01:31 > 0:01:34- I'm here to learn - about their ancient hunting skills.

0:01:34 > 0:01:36- Big pike.

0:01:37 > 0:01:41- I'll meet families - who still live off the land.

0:01:41 > 0:01:43- You trapped a beaver?

0:01:43 > 0:01:44- You trapped a beaver?- - Yes, I did.

0:01:45 > 0:01:49- And I try to understand - what effect the modern world...

0:01:49 > 0:01:53- ..has had on the tribe - and its ancient traditions.

0:01:53 > 0:01:58- My journey takes me through some - of the world's great landscapes.

0:01:59 > 0:02:01- This is the land of the Cree.

0:02:04 > 0:02:09- The Cree are one of North America's - most prominent tribes.

0:02:09 > 0:02:12- With a population of over 200,000...

0:02:12 > 0:02:15- ..they live in pockets - across the continent.

0:02:16 > 0:02:21- I've come to meet one of the most - remote nations, the Mistissini Cree.

0:02:21 > 0:02:25- In north Quebec, far from - the hubbub of modern life...

0:02:25 > 0:02:29- ..these people have enjoyed living - as a small nation.

0:02:29 > 0:02:33- Their territory has always - been divided between families.

0:02:33 > 0:02:39- Possessing vast areas, they have - lived off the land for generations.

0:02:40 > 0:02:44- But the modern world has cast - a shadow over this simple life.

0:02:44 > 0:02:46- Today, their lives are changing.

0:02:47 > 0:02:51- The modern world has tasted - the abundant natural resources...

0:02:52 > 0:02:55- ..within the territory - of this ancient tribe.

0:02:55 > 0:02:58- There's an insatiable appetite - for more.

0:03:03 > 0:03:07- It's hard to believe - that the vast landscape is Canada...

0:03:08 > 0:03:11- ..one of the world's - most developed countries.

0:03:11 > 0:03:13- The area is seemingly - untouched by man.

0:03:14 > 0:03:18- There are no buildings or roads, - nothing but a wild paradise.

0:03:18 > 0:03:22- Forests are criss-crossed - by lakes and rivers...

0:03:22 > 0:03:26- ..making it a wonderful habitat - for bears, moose, wolves...

0:03:27 > 0:03:30- ..and all kinds - of magnificent animals.

0:03:30 > 0:03:33- But for the Cree, they are food.

0:03:34 > 0:03:39- I'm here to spend a few days - at the Awashish family camp.

0:03:39 > 0:03:42- They have hunted this land - for generations.

0:03:42 > 0:03:47- I want to learn about their ancient - and unique way of life.

0:03:47 > 0:03:49- We're just flying over the camp now.

0:03:50 > 0:03:55- It's on a small island - in the middle of quite a large lake.

0:03:55 > 0:04:00- A solitary camp with no-one else - for hundreds of miles around.

0:04:00 > 0:04:02- What a place!

0:04:02 > 0:04:05- It looks fantastic.

0:04:33 > 0:04:36- You must be George. What a place!

0:04:36 > 0:04:38- Had a good flight?

0:04:38 > 0:04:40- Had a good flight?- - Very good.

0:04:40 > 0:04:41- Welcome.

0:04:41 > 0:04:44- George Awashish - is head of the family.

0:04:45 > 0:04:48- I'll be spending the next few days - in his company.

0:04:48 > 0:04:51- I'd better introduce myself first.

0:04:51 > 0:04:53- It's time to meet the family.

0:04:56 > 0:04:57- My mother, Minnie.

0:04:58 > 0:05:01- George lives in the cabin - with his mother, Minnie...

0:05:01 > 0:05:03- ..his wife, Jeanette...

0:05:03 > 0:05:05- Good to see you.

0:05:05 > 0:05:07- ..and his nephew, Victor.

0:05:08 > 0:05:10- How are you, big man? Alright?

0:05:10 > 0:05:15- It's a lot more luxurious - than I expected a hunting camp to be.

0:05:15 > 0:05:19- There are cabins - equipped with gas and electricity.

0:05:19 > 0:05:25- When I was small, the camp - was just a collection of tepees.

0:05:25 > 0:05:29- We travelled everywhere - by canoe or on foot.

0:05:29 > 0:05:34- Trying to keep up with the times - is a big change to our way of life.

0:05:38 > 0:05:42- The camp has been home - to George's family for generations.

0:05:43 > 0:05:46- He spends much of the year - hunting here.

0:05:46 > 0:05:50- He also offers hunting - and fishing holidays for tourists.

0:05:50 > 0:05:55- I expected somewhere more primitive, - but the camp is modern.

0:05:59 > 0:06:01- As I look around the camp...

0:06:01 > 0:06:06- ..it's strange to think - we're so far from the modern world.

0:06:06 > 0:06:13- We live in the town, but we spend - months hunting here every year.

0:06:13 > 0:06:20- The land is ours, from the highest - mountain to the furthest valley.

0:06:20 > 0:06:27- For five generations, this has - been our part of Cree territory.

0:06:28 > 0:06:34- The spiritual peace we feel from - being part of this land is precious.

0:06:34 > 0:06:41- I'm looking forward - to welcoming you to our world.

0:06:45 > 0:06:51- I can't think of many places - I'd rather be on an autumn day.

0:06:51 > 0:06:55- The leaves are changing colour. - It's beautiful here.

0:06:55 > 0:07:01- And if I stand here a moment, - just listen to this.

0:07:05 > 0:07:09- There are no aircraft - or vehicle noises.

0:07:10 > 0:07:12- There are no human sounds at all.

0:07:12 > 0:07:16- Something this rare - should be appreciated.

0:07:18 > 0:07:20- It's a very special place.

0:07:35 > 0:07:38- It's my first morning at camp - and we're up early.

0:07:39 > 0:07:42- George is in his camouflage - and I'm in bright orange.

0:07:46 > 0:07:48- We're going fishing.

0:07:48 > 0:07:52- George will lower the net - into the river...

0:07:52 > 0:07:56- ..to try to catch a big sturgeon.

0:07:56 > 0:08:00- I've never seen one, - so it'd be great if we caught one.

0:08:00 > 0:08:04- He's not going hunting today - because it's Sunday.

0:08:04 > 0:08:07- But he's brought his gun - just in case.

0:08:07 > 0:08:11- If he spots something, - he says that he'll shoot it.

0:08:11 > 0:08:16- His belief is that the animal - has offered itself as food.

0:08:16 > 0:08:18- Off we go.

0:08:23 > 0:08:25- The Cree are water people.

0:08:26 > 0:08:30- The lakes and rivers - are far too numerous to count.

0:08:30 > 0:08:33- Soon, there'll be no need - for a boat...

0:08:33 > 0:08:38- ..because the landscape - will be covered in ice and snow...

0:08:38 > 0:08:40- ..for several months.

0:08:41 > 0:08:45- The Cree have learnt to hunt - and stockpile food for winter.

0:08:46 > 0:08:50- We arrive at a spot where George - has fished since he was a child.

0:08:50 > 0:08:52- He obviously knows his land.

0:08:53 > 0:08:57- He knows where to drop his net - to catch specific fish.

0:08:57 > 0:09:00- He's very familiar - with his territory.

0:09:00 > 0:09:03- He has been raised in this area...

0:09:03 > 0:09:07- ..and his family have been fishing - and hunting here for generations.

0:09:11 > 0:09:14- How do you know - exactly where to lay the net?

0:09:15 > 0:09:20- Dad showed me the way - and he learnt from his father.

0:09:21 > 0:09:23- These are big fish, George.

0:09:24 > 0:09:27- The fish here grow to be huge.

0:09:27 > 0:09:32- I caught one sturgeon - that weighed well over 50 pounds!

0:09:32 > 0:09:35- Sorry, but you won't be able - to help much.

0:09:35 > 0:09:39- Only the Cree have the right - to fish here throughout the year.

0:09:39 > 0:09:44- It's part of the James Bay Treaty.

0:09:45 > 0:09:49- Though the Cree have lived - in their homeland for centuries...

0:09:49 > 0:09:55- ..only in 1975 were they given - the legal right to do so...

0:09:55 > 0:09:58- ..when the James Bay Treaty - was signed.

0:09:59 > 0:10:03- It's one of the most important - agreements in Canadian history.

0:10:03 > 0:10:06- The tribe retained its territory...

0:10:06 > 0:10:10- ..and the government had the right - to develop hydroelectric power.

0:10:10 > 0:10:15- This is one of the few areas - in the world that is truly wild.

0:10:15 > 0:10:21- It must be a privilege to live - like George in a place like this...

0:10:21 > 0:10:23- ..so close to nature.

0:10:23 > 0:10:27- There are thousands of lakes - and rivers here.

0:10:28 > 0:10:30- The water is crystal clear.

0:10:31 > 0:10:34- You can see - right to the bottom of the lake.

0:10:34 > 0:10:39- The fish must be so healthy. - They've probably never seen people.

0:10:39 > 0:10:45- Being the only people for hundreds - of miles is an odd feeling.

0:10:47 > 0:10:49- It's a great feeling too.

0:10:55 > 0:10:57- Where's the best place to fish?

0:10:58 > 0:11:05- The rough water, where the river - and lake meet, is the best place.

0:11:10 > 0:11:12- This is an ideal spot for fishing.

0:11:13 > 0:11:16- Where the river - joins the lake...

0:11:16 > 0:11:19- ..and the water is full of fish.

0:11:19 > 0:11:23- It's not like fishing - in the River Vyrnwy as a child!

0:11:23 > 0:11:25- Not quite.

0:11:26 > 0:11:30- It's incredible to think - that George's family...

0:11:30 > 0:11:35- ..owns this plot of land...

0:11:35 > 0:11:39- ..that's three times - the size of Anglesey.

0:11:39 > 0:11:42- Imagine that - - three times the size of Anglesey.

0:11:42 > 0:11:45- They hunt and fish this entire area.

0:11:49 > 0:11:51- When you wake up in the morning...

0:11:52 > 0:11:55- ..do you look at all this and think, - I'm a lucky man!

0:11:58 > 0:12:02- I sometimes have to remind myself - just how lucky I am...

0:12:02 > 0:12:06- ..to live - in such a magnificent place.

0:12:06 > 0:12:09- I know this territory - like the back of my hand.

0:12:09 > 0:12:13- It's central to my life.

0:12:22 > 0:12:27- Suddenly he catches a fish, - a bigger one than I've ever caught.

0:12:27 > 0:12:30- This pike is too small to eat...

0:12:30 > 0:12:33- ..so it's going back in the water.

0:12:42 > 0:12:43- .

0:12:48 > 0:12:48- 888

0:12:48 > 0:12:50- 888- - 888

0:13:03 > 0:13:08- I'm in the wilderness, hundreds - of miles from the nearest city.

0:13:08 > 0:13:11- I'm staying with a hunter - called George and his family.

0:13:12 > 0:13:17- He's eager for me to learn essential - fishing and tracking skills...

0:13:17 > 0:13:20- ..that were passed down - from his father.

0:13:20 > 0:13:25- He's the current generation - of wisdom that dates back centuries.

0:13:25 > 0:13:29- If an unlucky animal should cross - our path, George will shoot it.

0:13:30 > 0:13:34- But the prize for me is to see a man - with a wealth of experience...

0:13:34 > 0:13:36- ..practising his craft.

0:13:36 > 0:13:41- It's 6.00am and the sun - hasn't risen above the horizon yet.

0:13:43 > 0:13:48- I'm out with George - and we're going hunting.

0:13:48 > 0:13:52- He's looking for sandy beaches...

0:13:52 > 0:13:54- ..and animal tracks...

0:13:54 > 0:13:58- ..as well as scanning the trees - with his binoculars.

0:13:58 > 0:14:02- We're gliding along the shoreline - for the moment.

0:14:04 > 0:14:08- The place is so remote - that large animals have few enemies.

0:14:08 > 0:14:11- Bears, wolves and moose thrive here.

0:14:12 > 0:14:18- It's also teeming with foxes, mink, - weasels and all kinds of birds.

0:14:19 > 0:14:21- What exactly are you looking for?

0:14:23 > 0:14:29- I'm checking the sandy beaches, - looking for moose or bear tracks.

0:14:29 > 0:14:32- We'll take a closer look over there.

0:14:32 > 0:14:37- We'll hide our smell - by landing downwind.

0:14:53 > 0:14:56- It's very, very quiet here.

0:14:56 > 0:15:00- We're in shallow water, - so we've come to a standstill.

0:15:00 > 0:15:04- He's scanning the beach - through his binoculars.

0:15:06 > 0:15:09- There's a real feeling - of expectation here.

0:15:09 > 0:15:12- I know that if he spots something...

0:15:12 > 0:15:15- ..it will be all go.

0:15:17 > 0:15:19- But it's quiet this morning.

0:15:24 > 0:15:29- He noticed these moose tracks - while we were out on the boat.

0:15:29 > 0:15:33- He must have good eyesight - to spot them with binoculars.

0:15:33 > 0:15:37- It's obvious that he knew - it was here somewhere.

0:15:38 > 0:15:43- I notice from the tracks - that the moose went that way.

0:15:43 > 0:15:49- These two points - show in which direction he went.

0:15:52 > 0:15:57- There are wolf tracks here too, - so it's likely the moose ran away.

0:15:57 > 0:16:01- If it's still here, - it'll be very cautious.

0:16:05 > 0:16:08- Even though Victor - is only eight years old...

0:16:09 > 0:16:12- ..he's used to going hunting - with his uncle.

0:16:12 > 0:16:19- I'm happy that Victor - takes a keen interest in hunting.

0:16:19 > 0:16:25- He learns something new every time.

0:16:25 > 0:16:31- I don't need - to teach him everything either.

0:16:31 > 0:16:37- He'll learn a lot for himself.

0:16:37 > 0:16:44- It's good to know that our methods - will be passed on through him.

0:16:49 > 0:16:53- George has come across - these moose tracks.

0:16:53 > 0:16:55- It wanted to cross the river.

0:16:56 > 0:17:00- It checked the water over there - and then came back around.

0:17:00 > 0:17:04- The tracks go right into the water - and then disappear.

0:17:04 > 0:17:07- It crossed the river here.

0:17:07 > 0:17:12- At first, I thought it was odd - we were doing this from a boat...

0:17:12 > 0:17:15- ..and hunting the moose - from a boat.

0:17:15 > 0:17:19- But further inland, - the trees are very dense.

0:17:19 > 0:17:21- You won't see anything in there.

0:17:21 > 0:17:26- The only hope you have - of shooting a moose..

0:17:26 > 0:17:30- ..is from the water, - where you can see from afar.

0:17:30 > 0:17:33- But these are old tracks.

0:17:33 > 0:17:36- They may be three or four days old.

0:17:36 > 0:17:41- It's gone across the river - and who knows where after that?

0:17:41 > 0:17:45- They can wander up to 5km. - It could be miles away by now.

0:17:46 > 0:17:50- We've seen tracks, - despite not seeing a moose.

0:17:59 > 0:18:01- I've come to realize...

0:18:02 > 0:18:06- ..that the Cree - have a real understanding of nature.

0:18:06 > 0:18:10- We may only have seen animal tracks - but I've seen enough to know...

0:18:10 > 0:18:14- ..that they're maintaining - a rich heritage here.

0:18:14 > 0:18:19- The younger generation are preserving - the skills and wisdom...

0:18:19 > 0:18:22- ..inherited from their forefathers.

0:18:29 > 0:18:33- It's more than just a case - of resurrecting an old tradition.

0:18:34 > 0:18:38- It's a way of life that hasn't - changed much in centuries.

0:18:39 > 0:18:41- Apart from the chainsaw!

0:18:43 > 0:18:47- We now use modern equipment.

0:18:47 > 0:18:52- Machines and chainsaws - to make our lives easier.

0:18:52 > 0:18:55- Saving time is common sense.

0:18:55 > 0:18:58- I even have a GPS system.

0:18:59 > 0:19:04- I have two. - One in here and one in my pocket.

0:19:04 > 0:19:11- But the one in my head - will never run out of batteries!

0:19:11 > 0:19:15- It seems that the Cree - have been very successful...

0:19:16 > 0:19:20- ..in maintaining old traditions - as well as moving with the times.

0:19:21 > 0:19:26- Modern influences - are definitely growing.

0:19:26 > 0:19:31- But we'll never forget - our way of life.

0:19:31 > 0:19:35- It's important for me to continue - the traditions and language.

0:19:36 > 0:19:42- I have to teach Victor - the skills I learnt from my father.

0:19:42 > 0:19:45- He was a lasting influence - on my life.

0:19:54 > 0:19:58- Tonight, we're sitting down - to a family supper.

0:19:58 > 0:20:00- Moose is on the menu.

0:20:01 > 0:20:06- My mother prepared the meal to thank - the creator for the gift of food...

0:20:06 > 0:20:12- ..and for the strength - to hunt during the past season.

0:20:12 > 0:20:14- Thank you, Minnie...

0:20:15 > 0:20:19- ..and thank you all - for the warm welcome.

0:20:20 > 0:20:25- You've been very kind, showing me - the way you live out here.

0:20:25 > 0:20:27- You've been very hospitable...

0:20:28 > 0:20:31- ..and I appreciate - all that you've done for me.

0:20:32 > 0:20:33- Thank you very much.

0:20:34 > 0:20:38- The food offering is for the creator - and our family in the afterlife.

0:20:39 > 0:20:43- Especially my father. We're still - grieving, but it's getting easier.

0:20:45 > 0:20:50- As head of the family, George - makes an offering to the creator.

0:20:50 > 0:20:54- They believe the smoke will carry - the message to the spirit world.

0:20:54 > 0:20:56- SHE PRAYS IN CREE

0:21:02 > 0:21:06- I now realize the importance - of the older generation...

0:21:06 > 0:21:08- ..to the family.

0:21:08 > 0:21:13- Victor's father died last year - and a powerful atmosphere engulfs us.

0:21:15 > 0:21:17- Amen.

0:21:17 > 0:21:19- Have a good meal.

0:21:20 > 0:21:23- Thank you very much indeed.

0:21:23 > 0:21:27- Another night with the family - draws to an end.

0:21:27 > 0:21:31- Under the brightest stars - you'll ever see...

0:21:31 > 0:21:33- ..I realize I'm in unique company.

0:21:48 > 0:21:53- We're going to check - whether we've caught any fish.

0:21:53 > 0:21:58- As with everything here, - an early start is essential.

0:21:58 > 0:22:03- He carries a gun with him everywhere - just in case we spot something.

0:22:16 > 0:22:20- I have high hopes - as we approach the net.

0:22:20 > 0:22:25- But my heart sinks as I notice - a bird almost drowning in our net.

0:22:25 > 0:22:28- It's one of the dangers - of using nets.

0:22:28 > 0:22:32- A diver is caught up in the net.

0:22:32 > 0:22:36- Thank goodness we've spotted it. - We're going to set it free.

0:22:39 > 0:22:43- Fair play, he's letting it go. - He could easily have killed it.

0:22:43 > 0:22:48- He's taking his time - to cut it loose.

0:22:50 > 0:22:56- He's had to cut the net, so he'll - have to repair it over the winter.

0:22:58 > 0:23:00- The bird looks in good shape.

0:23:00 > 0:23:03- I'm holding him here - and I can feel that he's well fed.

0:23:07 > 0:23:09- Are you ready?

0:23:09 > 0:23:12- You can peck as much as you like. - One, two, three.

0:23:15 > 0:23:20- It was time to find out - whether the net had done its job.

0:23:20 > 0:23:24- George pulls in the net - and within seconds...

0:23:25 > 0:23:29- ..I meet one of the most - remarkable fish I've ever seen.

0:23:30 > 0:23:32- I felt it moving.

0:23:32 > 0:23:34- Namao.

0:23:34 > 0:23:36- Namao.

0:23:38 > 0:23:41- In my language, namao.

0:23:41 > 0:23:43- Namao.

0:23:43 > 0:23:45- I think namao means sturgeon.

0:23:55 > 0:23:59- You won't see these fish in Wales.

0:23:59 > 0:24:03- They're found in Eastern Europe - and Russia.

0:24:03 > 0:24:07- Sturgeon eggs are sold as caviar - in Russia.

0:24:07 > 0:24:09- The food of the well-to-do.

0:24:10 > 0:24:13- I don't know - whether there's caviar in this one.

0:24:13 > 0:24:16- They're very odd creatures.

0:24:16 > 0:24:19- They have - a very primitive appearance.

0:24:24 > 0:24:27- Geese are flying overhead.

0:24:27 > 0:24:30- They're migrating to the south.

0:24:32 > 0:24:35- I don't blame them - because it's getting colder.

0:24:37 > 0:24:39- Take a look at this.

0:24:39 > 0:24:41- Big pike.

0:24:48 > 0:24:50- We have plenty of food now.

0:24:51 > 0:24:53- Years ago...

0:24:54 > 0:24:56- ..they had to make the most - of the autumn.

0:24:57 > 0:25:00- It was a time of plenty - in terms of hunting and fishing...

0:25:01 > 0:25:03- ..to set them up for winter.

0:25:04 > 0:25:08- Three big fish - would have provided lots of food.

0:25:08 > 0:25:15- In the old days, how would you - preserve fish during winter?

0:25:16 > 0:25:21- I'm a young man! - I've always used a freezer!

0:25:22 > 0:25:27- But seriously, traditionally, - we would have smoked the fish.

0:25:36 > 0:25:40- Well, there we go. - A very successful fishing trip.

0:25:40 > 0:25:43- Four big fish.

0:25:43 > 0:25:46- And the first time - I've seen a sturgeon.

0:25:46 > 0:25:48- I'm very happy with that.

0:25:50 > 0:25:50- .

0:25:54 > 0:25:54- 888

0:25:54 > 0:25:56- 888- - 888

0:25:58 > 0:26:00- This is the land of the Cree.

0:26:00 > 0:26:04- This unique tribe - is indigenous to northern Canada.

0:26:05 > 0:26:09- I've had a wonderful time - out here in the wilderness.

0:26:09 > 0:26:12- But in order to get - a more rounded picture...

0:26:13 > 0:26:16- ..I'm visiting the town - to see how the Cree live there...

0:26:16 > 0:26:19- ..and to explore their politics.

0:26:19 > 0:26:25- I also want to find out whether - this ideal existence is under threat.

0:26:39 > 0:26:42- I'll return to camp - in a few days' time...

0:26:42 > 0:26:47- ..but for now, I'm enjoying - the majestic views of the landscape.

0:26:49 > 0:26:53- Pilot Phil has flown the float plane - for more than 20 years.

0:26:53 > 0:26:58- He has a unique perspective - of the territory from up here.

0:27:00 > 0:27:04- I'm a kind of taxi driver, ferrying - people to the hunting camps.

0:27:04 > 0:27:10- I see big changes afoot - from up here.

0:27:11 > 0:27:17- Things like deforestation, - mining and road building.

0:27:24 > 0:27:28- He veers off his usual route - to show me a mine.

0:27:28 > 0:27:32- Although it's a source of employment - and wealth...

0:27:32 > 0:27:34- ..it's a scar on this landscape.

0:27:34 > 0:27:40- With so many developments, - the Cree's biggest fear is pollution.

0:27:41 > 0:27:43- They are currently considering...

0:27:43 > 0:27:47- ..whether or not to allow - uranium mining on their land.

0:27:47 > 0:27:52- Pollution from the project - could be catastrophic for wildlife...

0:27:52 > 0:27:55- ..and the existing ecosystem.

0:27:56 > 0:28:00- I'm unhappy about these changes.

0:28:00 > 0:28:04- The roads will make it easier - for people to get here.

0:28:04 > 0:28:09- I can't see how we as people - will benefit.

0:28:09 > 0:28:15- Generations to come won't be able - to enjoy this naturally wild land.

0:28:15 > 0:28:18- Realizing this very real threat...

0:28:18 > 0:28:23- ..my journey to town has produced - more questions than answers.

0:28:25 > 0:28:29- This is Lake Mistassini, - Quebec's largest freshwater lake.

0:28:30 > 0:28:32- At over 100 miles long...

0:28:33 > 0:28:36- ..it's almost 500 times bigger - than Bala Lake.

0:28:36 > 0:28:40- The town of Mistissini - is on its shore.

0:28:40 > 0:28:46- The town was established - as a trade centre 300 years ago...

0:28:46 > 0:28:50- ..where the Cree sold meat, fur - and crafts to the white settlers.

0:28:51 > 0:28:54- They travelled by canoe, - sometimes for weeks on end.

0:28:55 > 0:28:57- They then returned to their camps.

0:28:57 > 0:29:00- It slowly grew into a small town...

0:29:00 > 0:29:06- ..and most of the 3,000 population - now own a home in the town...

0:29:06 > 0:29:10- ..as well as a hunting camp - in the wilderness.

0:29:19 > 0:29:23- In an area this vast, - this is the only way to travel.

0:29:38 > 0:29:42- This certainly isn't what I expected - Mistissini to look like.

0:29:43 > 0:29:45- I expected to see - rows of run-down shacks.

0:29:46 > 0:29:49- But look at this - - a brand-new housing estate.

0:29:49 > 0:29:51- Some of these are very grand too.

0:29:52 > 0:29:54- The building work is continuing.

0:29:54 > 0:29:59- A new hospital, courthouse - and leisure centre have been built.

0:29:59 > 0:30:01- Everything is new.

0:30:01 > 0:30:06- It's obvious - that this community is thriving.

0:30:06 > 0:30:08- I say well done to them.

0:30:08 > 0:30:10- I've had a shock.

0:30:17 > 0:30:19- As with every native tribe...

0:30:19 > 0:30:22- ..the biggest change - facing the Cree...

0:30:22 > 0:30:25- ..has been the switch - from self-sufficiency...

0:30:26 > 0:30:27- ..to a financial economy.

0:30:28 > 0:30:32- The signing of the James Bay Treaty - in 1975 made them millionaires.

0:30:32 > 0:30:34- For almost 40 years...

0:30:34 > 0:30:38- ..new developments - have contributed to the coffers.

0:30:38 > 0:30:41- In Wales, a town like Mistissini...

0:30:41 > 0:30:45- ..would be considered a village - rather than a town.

0:30:45 > 0:30:48- But despite its size...

0:30:48 > 0:30:51- ..it is the Cree's - administrative centre.

0:30:51 > 0:30:55- The new law courts and senate - are a clear indication...

0:30:55 > 0:31:00- ..that the Cree are striding forward - proudly into the modern world.

0:31:03 > 0:31:06- But now that their lives - are changing...

0:31:06 > 0:31:09- ..could this be too much - of a good thing?

0:31:10 > 0:31:16- I've come to meet Ashley Iserhoff, - the Cree's Deputy Grand Chief.

0:31:19 > 0:31:21- Deputy Grand Chief? I'm Iolo.

0:31:21 > 0:31:22- Nice to meet you.

0:31:22 > 0:31:24- Nice to meet you.- - Thank you for making time for me.

0:31:24 > 0:31:27- It's been a real eye-opener - coming to the town.

0:31:28 > 0:31:30- I expected something - completely different.

0:31:31 > 0:31:37- How much pressure are you under - to share your territory's resources?

0:31:39 > 0:31:45- We're under increasing pressure - to share with the rest of Canada.

0:31:46 > 0:31:48- By taking advice - from the Cree elders...

0:31:49 > 0:31:54- ..we have succeeded in modernizing - without losing our culture.

0:31:54 > 0:31:58- Everybody speaks - the mother tongue...

0:31:58 > 0:32:02- ..and continues - with the traditional way of life.

0:32:02 > 0:32:09- I grew up in a tepee - and now I live in a modern house.

0:32:10 > 0:32:11- Congratulations.

0:32:11 > 0:32:14- I've visited six different tribes...

0:32:14 > 0:32:17- ..and the Cree is the one tribe...

0:32:17 > 0:32:21- ..that has managed to retain - the traditional way of life...

0:32:21 > 0:32:25- ..and moved seamlessly - into the modern world.

0:32:26 > 0:32:31- The Cree are unique - because we've made the crossover...

0:32:31 > 0:32:38- ..from the past to the future - without losing our way.

0:32:38 > 0:32:40- What's been made clear...

0:32:41 > 0:32:44- ..is that the people - don't make any decisions...

0:32:44 > 0:32:48- ..if they believe a development - will have a negative effect.

0:32:48 > 0:32:52- Not only on the people, - their culture and language...

0:32:52 > 0:32:57- ..but on the land, - water and wildlife too.

0:32:57 > 0:33:01- It strikes me - that they've got things right here.

0:33:01 > 0:33:07- It's a shame that we don't have - politicians like him back in Wales.

0:33:12 > 0:33:14- Hello.

0:33:14 > 0:33:18- Don't worry, we're doing - a documentary on the town.

0:33:18 > 0:33:19- You trapped a beaver?

0:33:19 > 0:33:21- You trapped a beaver?- - Yes, I did.

0:33:21 > 0:33:24- Is it alright - if I have a look at it?

0:33:24 > 0:33:26- Thank you. Oh, wow!

0:33:26 > 0:33:29- Is this an adult beaver?

0:33:29 > 0:33:30- Mid-size.

0:33:30 > 0:33:33- Mid-size.- - It's not a big, big one. Oh, wow.

0:33:33 > 0:33:35- Thank you very much.

0:33:36 > 0:33:37- Have a good day.

0:33:37 > 0:33:39- Have a good day.- - Thank you. And you, too.

0:33:39 > 0:33:41- The man back there...

0:33:42 > 0:33:46- ..was carrying something, - so I went to see what it was.

0:33:46 > 0:33:50- It was a beaver - that he'd caught about 100km away.

0:33:50 > 0:33:54- I asked him whether he hunted it - for its fur.

0:33:54 > 0:33:57- He said that there's no money - in the fur.

0:33:57 > 0:33:59- He wanted the meat.

0:33:59 > 0:34:01- They love beaver meat.

0:34:02 > 0:34:05- They eat every bit of it, - including the tail.

0:34:05 > 0:34:09- The tail is flat - and resembles a spoon.

0:34:09 > 0:34:14- I don't know how they eat it, - but it's obviously important meat.

0:34:15 > 0:34:20- It's not every day that you see - a moose in the back of a pick-up.

0:34:20 > 0:34:24- This family shot the moose - after seeing it on the roadside.

0:34:24 > 0:34:29- After speaking to a politician, - I wanted to hear from the people.

0:34:30 > 0:34:35- Do you think the sudden change - in lifestyle is a good thing?

0:34:36 > 0:34:40- We shouldn't sell our land - to developers.

0:34:40 > 0:34:45- Our land is our heritage and it's - our responsibility to preserve it.

0:34:45 > 0:34:51- I worked in the mine but returned - to hunting to earn my living.

0:34:51 > 0:34:58- My friends work in the mines, - but they would prefer to hunt.

0:34:58 > 0:35:01- Have you seen a lot of change - in this area...

0:35:02 > 0:35:04- ..since the gold mine - and so on opened?

0:35:05 > 0:35:06- Yes.

0:35:07 > 0:35:12- I blame global warming - for the pollution.

0:35:13 > 0:35:20- The moose's coat is thinner - because our winters are shorter.

0:35:23 > 0:35:27- It's hard to believe - in a place as remote as this...

0:35:28 > 0:35:31- ..that the environment and wildlife - are affected by man.

0:35:34 > 0:35:38- The Cree's situation is a dichotomy.

0:35:38 > 0:35:42- Though the developments - have brought wealth...

0:35:42 > 0:35:47- ..living in an economy - where money rules...

0:35:47 > 0:35:52- ..is anathema to the tribe's beliefs - in self-sufficiency.

0:35:52 > 0:35:57- Before leaving the town, - I arrange to meet Kevin Neeposh.

0:35:57 > 0:36:02- He's responsible for establishing - a new national park...

0:36:02 > 0:36:04- ..that's half the size of Wales.

0:36:04 > 0:36:10- On my way, I see evidence - of all the new developments.

0:36:10 > 0:36:13- We meet in a place - that was once a forest.

0:36:13 > 0:36:17- It's an example - of what Kevin wants to preserve.

0:36:18 > 0:36:24- You can see that our land - is under constant economic threat.

0:36:24 > 0:36:27- Though everybody - wants to modernize...

0:36:28 > 0:36:32- ..our culture - should take precedence over money.

0:36:33 > 0:36:38- We're planning to turn our families' - hunting land into a national park.

0:36:38 > 0:36:42- Though the Cree - will live and hunt there...

0:36:42 > 0:36:45- ..no money will be made - from the land.

0:36:45 > 0:36:49- He goes on to tell me about the - support the project has received.

0:36:50 > 0:36:53- But how do the people decide - on such matters?

0:36:53 > 0:36:57- When land is so precious, saying - and doing are two different things.

0:36:58 > 0:37:02- Every decision - is discussed publicly.

0:37:02 > 0:37:09- If there's opposition, we turn - to the tribal elders for guidance.

0:37:10 > 0:37:18- That's the traditional way - of making decisions in our culture.

0:37:25 > 0:37:28- Picture the transformation - that has occurred here.

0:37:29 > 0:37:32- In one generation, - the place has gone...

0:37:33 > 0:37:36- ..from a collection of tepees - to a brand-new modern town.

0:37:37 > 0:37:42- It has only taken 30 years - for them to undergo such changes.

0:37:42 > 0:37:45- Something that took us centuries.

0:37:45 > 0:37:49- They have to do this and try - to avoid making any mistakes.

0:37:49 > 0:37:51- It's quite a feat.

0:38:05 > 0:38:05- .

0:38:09 > 0:38:09- 888

0:38:09 > 0:38:11- 888- - 888

0:38:17 > 0:38:19- I'm living among the Cree...

0:38:19 > 0:38:23- ..the unique Native American tribe - of northern Canada.

0:38:25 > 0:38:27- Having spent a few days - in the town...

0:38:28 > 0:38:31- ..I return to the Awashish family's - hunting camp.

0:38:36 > 0:38:40- Despite its remote location...

0:38:40 > 0:38:43- ..it has modern cabins...

0:38:43 > 0:38:46- ..with gas and electricity.

0:38:46 > 0:38:49- Hello again, George. - Good to see you again.

0:38:49 > 0:38:51- It's good to be back.

0:38:51 > 0:38:56- One person who has witnessed - big changes in her lifetime...

0:38:56 > 0:38:59- ..is Minnie, the family's matriarch.

0:39:02 > 0:39:05- George's mother, Minnie...

0:39:05 > 0:39:10- ..makes crafts for a living.

0:39:11 > 0:39:14- She doesn't speak a word - of English, only Cree.

0:39:14 > 0:39:17- What you're making is lovely.

0:39:17 > 0:39:20- What are they made out of?

0:39:21 > 0:39:27- I've been making moccasins from - moose hide for a very long time.

0:39:27 > 0:39:32- What was the role of the woman - when you were a child?

0:39:32 > 0:39:36- When I was small, - we lived in tepees.

0:39:36 > 0:39:41- We were a close family who hunted - and gathered medicinal herbs.

0:39:42 > 0:39:45- For some reason, we all seemed - much happier back then.

0:39:46 > 0:39:49- Although the modern world - is appealing...

0:39:49 > 0:39:51- ..it has its drawbacks, she says.

0:39:51 > 0:39:56- The younger generation - are exposed to an unhealthy diet...

0:39:56 > 0:39:58- ..and a sedentary lifestyle.

0:39:58 > 0:40:02- The children aren't obedient, - as we were.

0:40:03 > 0:40:08- The Cree have always been proud - to learn from their parents.

0:40:08 > 0:40:13- But I see less of that nowadays.

0:40:13 > 0:40:16- She goes on to explain more - about the changes...

0:40:16 > 0:40:19- ..that she has seen in her lifetime.

0:40:19 > 0:40:22- They were introduced - to Christianity.

0:40:22 > 0:40:25- She shows me her hymn book - in the Cree language.

0:40:25 > 0:40:29- Her words are closer - to the teachings of the Bible...

0:40:29 > 0:40:31- ..than to the modern ways.

0:40:32 > 0:40:35- Money isn't important.

0:40:35 > 0:40:37- I can't eat money.

0:40:37 > 0:40:43- I doubt there's room in our world - for economic developments.

0:40:44 > 0:40:49- All these developments - are harmful to nature.

0:40:49 > 0:40:54- I've never seen river levels so low.

0:40:54 > 0:40:59- Beavers were everywhere once, - but now they're scarce.

0:41:07 > 0:41:10- The sun is starting to set...

0:41:10 > 0:41:12- ..and it's time to go hunting.

0:41:13 > 0:41:16- We're hunting for beavers, - an animal I've never hunted before.

0:41:23 > 0:41:26- Beavers are likeable creatures.

0:41:26 > 0:41:30- They disappeared from Britain - in the 15th century.

0:41:30 > 0:41:34- This is a perfect habitat for them, - and despite falling numbers...

0:41:35 > 0:41:37- ..beavers are still on the menu.

0:41:37 > 0:41:41- George is keen for Victor - to shoot his first beaver.

0:41:41 > 0:41:44- We won't be needing the boat - any more.

0:41:45 > 0:41:49- Because the river level is low...

0:41:49 > 0:41:53- ..the beavers have moved - to the smaller lakes nearby.

0:41:53 > 0:41:56- We have to walk half a mile - to reach the lake.

0:41:56 > 0:42:01- We've waited until now because - they come out late in the day.

0:42:01 > 0:42:04- We've waited for the sun to set.

0:42:04 > 0:42:08- We'll go and wait - for the beavers to appear.

0:42:08 > 0:42:10- Bring the fishing rod.

0:42:10 > 0:42:14- If we shoot one in the lake, - we can fish it out of the water.

0:42:15 > 0:42:18- That's a new one on me - - fishing for beaver!

0:42:18 > 0:42:23- If they shoot it on the water, - we'll need the rod to reel it in.

0:42:33 > 0:42:38- The beavers have built a lodge - over on the other side.

0:42:39 > 0:42:44- These two are going - to settle down here and wait.

0:42:44 > 0:42:47- As dusk falls, - the beavers will come out.

0:42:48 > 0:42:52- They're in a good position here - to shoot them.

0:42:52 > 0:42:57- It's important - that we're positioned downwind...

0:42:57 > 0:43:00- ..so that the wind carries our smell - away from the animals.

0:43:07 > 0:43:09- Do beavers have good eyesight?

0:43:11 > 0:43:18- Their sight isn't great, but their - hearing and smell is very acute.

0:43:26 > 0:43:29- Hunting beavers is an odd feeling.

0:43:29 > 0:43:33- Back home, it'd be like someone - hunting the red squirrel.

0:43:33 > 0:43:36- We think of beavers as rare animals.

0:43:36 > 0:43:39- While they're not common here...

0:43:39 > 0:43:44- ..these people have depended - on beaver, bear and moose meat...

0:43:44 > 0:43:48- ..since before Christ's time, - so this is totally natural for them.

0:43:51 > 0:43:55- I like hunting for beavers - more than any other animal...

0:43:55 > 0:43:58- ..because of the strategy involved.

0:43:58 > 0:44:04- They're clever, - so we have to be cunning.

0:44:05 > 0:44:08- There's a ripple in the water - over there.

0:44:13 > 0:44:17- Despite the excitement, - there's no sign of beavers.

0:44:17 > 0:44:21- I wonder - who's the most cunning today?

0:44:22 > 0:44:27- Both hunters and naturalists - have to learn to be patient.

0:44:28 > 0:44:32- You have to be very patient - and be prepared to wait.

0:44:32 > 0:44:34- That's a skill in itself.

0:44:35 > 0:44:38- Waiting for an hour or two, - sometimes more.

0:44:39 > 0:44:40- Sometimes a whole day.

0:44:41 > 0:44:45- Waiting a long time - is an important part of hunting.

0:45:00 > 0:45:04- As the minutes turn into hours, - I remember the grandmother's words.

0:45:04 > 0:45:08- The beavers - are either keeping clear...

0:45:08 > 0:45:11- ..or, more worryingly, dying out.

0:45:19 > 0:45:23- The light is beginning to fade now - and the sun is setting.

0:45:23 > 0:45:29- When it disappears over the horizon, - we'll have to head back home.

0:45:29 > 0:45:33- We haven't seen anything - and we haven't shot anything.

0:45:33 > 0:45:35- But it doesn't matter to me.

0:45:35 > 0:45:41- Being out in this unique landscape - with these people is a pleasure.

0:45:41 > 0:45:44- I've learnt so much from them.

0:45:48 > 0:45:51- It's time to head home.

0:45:51 > 0:45:55- It's not often that a man can say - he's fulfilled a dream.

0:45:55 > 0:45:59- I've had the privilege of spending - time with the American Indians...

0:46:00 > 0:46:04- ..who captivated me - while watching westerns as a child.

0:46:04 > 0:46:08- It's been an epic journey - across a remarkable continent.

0:46:09 > 0:46:11- I've met colourful characters...

0:46:11 > 0:46:15- ..and had experiences - that I could never have imagined.

0:46:15 > 0:46:18- I learned about spirituality - from the Navajo...

0:46:19 > 0:46:21- ..and warrior spirit - from the Cherokee.

0:46:22 > 0:46:26- I hunted with the Mi'kmaq - and saw the unique relationship...

0:46:26 > 0:46:30- ..that the Lakota and the Blackfoot - have with nature.

0:46:30 > 0:46:33- The white man - brought destruction to the tribes...

0:46:33 > 0:46:39- ..but they continue to fight - for their language and culture.

0:46:39 > 0:46:42- They're still there.

0:46:43 > 0:46:49- Through it all, I have learnt - to appreciate what we have.

0:46:49 > 0:46:53- As a nation, we should be proud - of our language and our culture.

0:46:54 > 0:46:56- Our traditions continue.

0:46:56 > 0:47:00- I'm pleased to say that amid - the buzz of the modern world...

0:47:00 > 0:47:03- ..the Native American traditions...

0:47:03 > 0:47:07- ..are still as relevant today - as they've always been.

0:47:07 > 0:47:11- I've travelled - across the USA and Canada...

0:47:11 > 0:47:15- ..and on this final trip, - I have come across a tribe...

0:47:15 > 0:47:17- ..whose story is one of success.

0:47:18 > 0:47:23- The Cree have remained faithful - to their forefathers...

0:47:23 > 0:47:27- ..while still moving forward - into the modern world.

0:47:27 > 0:47:32- They still venture out to hunt - in this beautiful wilderness...

0:47:32 > 0:47:38- ..but return to their modern town - and luxurious homes.

0:47:39 > 0:47:45- It's a very successful tribe - and a very prosperous tribe.

0:47:46 > 0:47:50- I think they'll do very well - in the modern world...

0:47:50 > 0:47:53- ..and that's something to celebrate.

0:48:12 > 0:48:15- S4C Subtitles by Eirlys A Jones