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0:00:23 > 0:00:26- Islands
0:00:43 > 0:00:48- We think of islands as places to - retreat from the world's troubles.
0:00:48 > 0:00:50- It's an old perception.
0:00:51 > 0:00:56- Traditionally, man went to the - desert to be closer to his god...
0:00:57 > 0:00:59- ..to meditate...
0:00:59 > 0:01:02- ..to escape from the world...
0:01:02 > 0:01:04- ..and find a vision.
0:01:05 > 0:01:08- Where better to seek - spiritual sanctuary...
0:01:09 > 0:01:11- ..than on an island?
0:01:15 > 0:01:20- In this programme, I'll visit - some of Britain's holy islands.
0:01:21 > 0:01:24- I'm starting here, - on St Herbert's Island.
0:01:26 > 0:01:30- Herbert came to this island - in Derwentwater, Cumbria...
0:01:30 > 0:01:34- ..to live as a hermit - in the seventh century.
0:01:34 > 0:01:39- Retreating was a tradition - dating back to early Christianity.
0:01:42 > 0:01:46- Christian monks - left their communities...
0:01:46 > 0:01:50- ..to live alone - in the desert and pray.
0:01:51 > 0:01:56- There wasn't a desert in Britain for - a fledgling hermit like St Herbert.
0:01:57 > 0:02:01- But there were numerous islands - off Britain's coastline...
0:02:01 > 0:02:03- ..and in her lakes.
0:02:05 > 0:02:08- I'd like to think...
0:02:09 > 0:02:12- ..this ruin was part - of St Herbert's cell.
0:02:12 > 0:02:18- It's part of a chapel built - for medieval pilgrims.
0:02:19 > 0:02:23- St Herbert would have led - a simple life here.
0:02:23 > 0:02:26- He had everything - he needed from the lake...
0:02:26 > 0:02:29- ..water to drink and fish to eat...
0:02:29 > 0:02:33- ..allowing him to spend his time - meditating and praying.
0:02:38 > 0:02:41- St Herbert left the island - only once a year...
0:02:42 > 0:02:46- ..to confess to his great friend, - St Cuthbert...
0:02:46 > 0:02:49- ..an abbot on Lindisfarne Island.
0:02:50 > 0:02:53- They were such great friends...
0:02:53 > 0:02:57- ..that St Herbert prayed to God - they both could die the same day.
0:02:58 > 0:03:02- He couldn't imagine life - without his friend.
0:03:05 > 0:03:10- And that's what happened, - on the 20th of March, 687.
0:03:17 > 0:03:22- The island is a beautiful place - to visit, even on a day like today.
0:03:22 > 0:03:25- Here, surrounded - by the glory of nature...
0:03:25 > 0:03:30- ..it's easy to imagine finding - a deeper spiritual awareness.
0:03:30 > 0:03:32- But this is what I want to know.
0:03:33 > 0:03:37- Is there more to islands - than natural beauty?
0:03:42 > 0:03:48- Driving to the next location - feels like being on an island.
0:03:49 > 0:03:51- But I'm in a river of traffic.
0:03:52 > 0:03:56- Was that the hidden agenda - for devising motorways?
0:03:56 > 0:03:59- For a rare opportunity - to be alone...
0:03:59 > 0:04:03- ..a relative luxury - in our hectic modern lives.
0:04:06 > 0:04:08- On the motorway...
0:04:08 > 0:04:11- ..we're between two worlds...
0:04:11 > 0:04:16- ..midway between - our starting point and destination.
0:04:16 > 0:04:21- In the Middle Ages, holy islands - were viewed in the same way...
0:04:22 > 0:04:26- ..a midway point - between this world and the next.
0:04:27 > 0:04:29- I'm going to Hereford Cathedral.
0:04:30 > 0:04:34- It's 50 miles from the sea - without a holy island near it.
0:04:34 > 0:04:39- But this is the home of Mappa Mundi - or map of the world.
0:04:39 > 0:04:42- It dates back to 1300.
0:04:42 > 0:04:45- Through studying the map...
0:04:45 > 0:04:50- ..we gain an insight into - how our forefathers viewed islands.
0:04:50 > 0:04:54- But it's a map unlike - any we're used to.
0:04:54 > 0:04:57- Cannon Chris Pullin - is an expert on the map.
0:04:58 > 0:05:01- I've asked his help - to decipher it.
0:05:01 > 0:05:03- One thing is that it faces east.
0:05:04 > 0:05:06- East is at the top, not north.
0:05:06 > 0:05:12- Britain is just there, - in the bottom left hand quarter.
0:05:12 > 0:05:15- If we turn our heads to one side...
0:05:15 > 0:05:19- ..we see Britain - compressed like a baby in the womb.
0:05:20 > 0:05:23- Upon closer inspection...
0:05:23 > 0:05:27- ..we see familiar names - like Londonia, or London.
0:05:28 > 0:05:32- Here, in red writing, - there's Snawedon or Snowdon.
0:05:32 > 0:05:34- Caernarfon is nearby.
0:05:35 > 0:05:39- Why are the countries - stacked on top of each other?
0:05:39 > 0:05:44- It's been presented within a circle - because that was a perfect shape.
0:05:45 > 0:05:48- Things have been distorted - to fit within the circle...
0:05:48 > 0:05:50- ..and not just - to fit within the circle...
0:05:51 > 0:05:55- ..but to have Jerusalem placed - at the very centre of the map.
0:05:55 > 0:05:56- That's another distortion.
0:05:56 > 0:06:00- The Holy Land is presented - out of all proportion...
0:06:00 > 0:06:02- ..to its actual size in the world.
0:06:03 > 0:06:06- It's very large in the map, - but then it's very significant...
0:06:07 > 0:06:10- ..and that's the reason why.
0:06:10 > 0:06:12- To the medieval mind...
0:06:12 > 0:06:17- ..religious accuracy had precedence - over geographical accuracy.
0:06:18 > 0:06:22- I asked Chris about the chain of - islands on the right of the map...
0:06:22 > 0:06:24- ..below North Africa.
0:06:25 > 0:06:30- Around the edges of the map - we tend to have islands and lands...
0:06:31 > 0:06:35- ..that are known about through - legend and ancient writings...
0:06:35 > 0:06:40- ..but which no human has ever seen, - or has ever seen mythical, I guess!
0:06:41 > 0:06:46- Down here, we have the Happy - Islands, the Fortunate Islands...
0:06:46 > 0:06:48- ..where fruit fell into your hand...
0:06:49 > 0:06:52- ..and sheep and ewes - walked up to you to be milked.
0:06:52 > 0:06:53- An earthy paradise.
0:06:53 > 0:06:55- An earthy paradise.- - That's right.
0:06:55 > 0:06:58- On the top of Mappa Mundi, - we see Eden...
0:06:59 > 0:07:02- ..paradise itself...
0:07:02 > 0:07:07- ..represented as a circular island - surrounded by a circle of fire.
0:07:08 > 0:07:11- Why was Eden considered - an island in the Middle Ages?
0:07:12 > 0:07:14- They believed it was somewhere...
0:07:14 > 0:07:20- ..but quite where, no-one could say, - in the east, in the furthest east.
0:07:20 > 0:07:23- No-one had been there and no-one - had seemed to reach it or find it.
0:07:24 > 0:07:26- There was the legend - that people who died...
0:07:26 > 0:07:30- ..those who were going to heaven - waited there for the end of time...
0:07:30 > 0:07:33- ..and the opening of the gates of - heaven when they would then go in.
0:07:33 > 0:07:37- Directly about it - we have Christ sitting in majesty...
0:07:37 > 0:07:41- ..judging the souls - of the living and dead.
0:07:41 > 0:07:45- Those on his left - going into the jaws of hell...
0:07:45 > 0:07:48- ..and those on his right being - received by angels into heaven.
0:07:49 > 0:07:52- The worldly paradise is very close - to where on the map...
0:07:53 > 0:07:55- ..we see - the heavenly realm depicted.
0:08:05 > 0:08:07- My next destination...
0:08:07 > 0:08:11- ..is an island off - the north east coast of Anglesey.
0:08:11 > 0:08:17- But it's only at high tide - that Llanddwyn is an island at all.
0:08:28 > 0:08:33- A cold and sad beauty - surrounds Llanddwyn Island today...
0:08:33 > 0:08:35- ..which seems fitting.
0:08:35 > 0:08:40- St Dwynwen, - who gave the island its name...
0:08:40 > 0:08:44- ..first came here - suffering from a broken heart.
0:08:46 > 0:08:51- As the tide turned and the water - became shallow enough to cross...
0:08:51 > 0:08:53- ..the island warden gave me a lift.
0:08:55 > 0:09:01- I'm meeting Rev Andrew Jones - to learn more about Dwynwen.
0:09:04 > 0:09:08- It's believed she was one - of Brychan Brycheiniog's daughters.
0:09:09 > 0:09:11- She fell in love with Maelon.
0:09:12 > 0:09:15- But her father had different ideas.
0:09:16 > 0:09:19- He'd promised her hand to another.
0:09:19 > 0:09:21- Maelon is heartbroken.
0:09:22 > 0:09:26- Dwynwen begs God...
0:09:26 > 0:09:29- ..to help her - forget her love for him.
0:09:29 > 0:09:35- One night, after praying fervently, - God gives her a potion.
0:09:35 > 0:09:37- She drinks it.
0:09:37 > 0:09:42- But Maelon also drinks it - and turns into a lump of ice.
0:09:44 > 0:09:49- To solve this new development, - Dwynwen is granted three wishes.
0:09:49 > 0:09:51- Firstly, Maelon's release.
0:09:51 > 0:09:55- Secondly, that she will - never be troubled again...
0:09:55 > 0:09:59- ..by feelings of love for him - or any other living man.
0:10:01 > 0:10:04- And lastly, - for God to work through her...
0:10:04 > 0:10:08- ..to look after all true lovers.
0:10:08 > 0:10:11- Dwynwen was granted her wishes.
0:10:11 > 0:10:14- We remember her - on the 25th of January...
0:10:14 > 0:10:18- ..as the patron saint - of Welsh lovers.
0:10:20 > 0:10:25- Dwynwen spent the rest of her life - as a nun on Llanddwyn.
0:10:25 > 0:10:29- This is where she died, around 460.
0:10:32 > 0:10:36- Why have people been drawn - to islands throughout the ages?
0:10:37 > 0:10:40- It's an early Christian tradition.
0:10:41 > 0:10:45- Men and women left - their communities...
0:10:45 > 0:10:49- ..and went to deserts - in Syria, Palestine and Egypt.
0:10:49 > 0:10:54- They retreated to create - a deeper relationship with God.
0:10:55 > 0:11:01- They escaped, but they fled - to have more freedom to worship...
0:11:01 > 0:11:05- ..and immerse themselves - in spirituality.
0:11:05 > 0:11:11- Ironically, - once they had retreated...
0:11:11 > 0:11:15- ..people flocked - to be closer to them...
0:11:16 > 0:11:20- ..because they thought - their holiness was contagious...
0:11:21 > 0:11:24- ..to take advantage - of their sanctity.
0:11:25 > 0:11:28- But as humans, we are social beings.
0:11:28 > 0:11:30- Is it good to be so insular?
0:11:31 > 0:11:35- Interestingly, Llanddwyn - is unlike other islands.
0:11:36 > 0:11:39- Bardsey and Caldey - are always islands.
0:11:40 > 0:11:42- But because of the tide...
0:11:43 > 0:11:46- ..Llanddwyn isn't an island - all day, every day.
0:11:46 > 0:11:51- The tide makes her an island - at certain times of the day.
0:11:52 > 0:11:55- There's a life lesson there.
0:11:55 > 0:12:00- Like many, - I like to be an island at times.
0:12:00 > 0:12:05- But like Llanddwyn, - I also need the company of people.
0:12:09 > 0:12:14- What was a nun or monk's life - on such an island?
0:12:16 > 0:12:21- In part two, I visit - a community of contemporary monks...
0:12:21 > 0:12:25- ..on an island off the Scottish - coast, to find the answer.
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0:12:42 > 0:12:44- Pleased to meet you, Ifor.
0:12:49 > 0:12:53- What would it be like to live - a monk's life on a Holy Isle?
0:12:56 > 0:13:00- I've come to Scotland - to meet contemporary monks...
0:13:00 > 0:13:02- ..to find the answer.
0:13:08 > 0:13:13- I'm going to Eilean Molaise, the - Holy Isle off the coast of Arran.
0:13:13 > 0:13:17- The spiritual tradition - that's practised there today...
0:13:17 > 0:13:20- ..isn't one we'd expect in Scotland.
0:13:24 > 0:13:28- In Scottish Gaelic, - Eilean Molaise means Molaise Island.
0:13:28 > 0:13:33- Molaise was a Christian monk who - settled here in the sixth century.
0:13:33 > 0:13:37- Since the 1990s, the island - has become home to Buddhist monks.
0:13:38 > 0:13:40- On part of the island...
0:13:40 > 0:13:45- ..seventeen nuns have retreated - from the world for four years...
0:13:45 > 0:13:48- ..in keeping - with Buddhist tradition.
0:13:48 > 0:13:51- I wasn't allowed to visit - that part of the island.
0:13:52 > 0:13:55- But there's - a Studies Centre at the other end.
0:13:55 > 0:13:59- I'm meeting Choden, - a former monk who runs the courses.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03- I asked him - about the island's appeal.
0:14:03 > 0:14:09- It's got an amazing history - going back to the sixth century.
0:14:09 > 0:14:14- There's a tangible energy here, - something quite pure.
0:14:15 > 0:14:17- We don't want commercial activity.
0:14:17 > 0:14:20- Once here, - it's actually hard to spend money!
0:14:20 > 0:14:24- There's no mobile phone reception, - we're not keen on the Internet.
0:14:24 > 0:14:28- We have a few connections - because we need it.
0:14:28 > 0:14:32- We try to make this place - as simple and pure as we can.
0:14:32 > 0:14:36- We're not trying - to create some rarefied place...
0:14:36 > 0:14:38- ..set apart from the world.
0:14:39 > 0:14:43- We try to provide a context - where people can get rejuvenated...
0:14:43 > 0:14:46- ..emotionally and spiritually...
0:14:46 > 0:14:51- ..tap something in themselves and - carry that with them in their lives.
0:14:52 > 0:14:56- A place that cultivates - inner growth, peace and awareness...
0:14:56 > 0:15:00- ..if you set something like - that up, it has a powerful effect.
0:15:00 > 0:15:05- Buddhists reach a state - of awareness and inner peace...
0:15:05 > 0:15:09- ..through prayer - and quiet meditation.
0:15:10 > 0:15:15- Even though I'd never tried - this form of meditation...
0:15:15 > 0:15:19- ..Choden invited me to join - one of his sessions on the islands.
0:15:20 > 0:15:23- The first thing - is to sit comfortably.
0:15:23 > 0:15:26- The actual practice is...
0:15:26 > 0:15:30- ..using the breathing - and becoming aware of the breath...
0:15:31 > 0:15:33- ..as we breathe in and out.
0:15:33 > 0:15:36- Every time your mind - wanders away, notice that...
0:15:37 > 0:15:40- ..and bring your attention back - to the breathing.
0:15:53 > 0:15:56- They'll meditate silently - like this...
0:15:56 > 0:16:01- ..for 45 minutes every morning - and an hour at night.
0:16:01 > 0:16:03- I was released after five minutes.
0:16:04 > 0:16:07- I enjoyed experiencing - one of their rituals.
0:16:08 > 0:16:11- It's a large part - of their vision for the island.
0:16:13 > 0:16:18- They welcome every faith, - and even those who have no faith.
0:16:22 > 0:16:27- The next island on my journey - lies off the Northumbria coast.
0:16:29 > 0:16:31- I'm going to Lindisfarne.
0:16:33 > 0:16:36- Like Llanddwyn, - it can be reached over land.
0:16:36 > 0:16:41- But in Lindisfarne's case, - it involves more travelling.
0:16:45 > 0:16:46- Wow.
0:16:49 > 0:16:55- I'm halfway across the causeway - that leads to Lindisfarne.
0:16:57 > 0:17:01- The sea covers the causeway - at certain times of the day.
0:17:02 > 0:17:05- You have to take care of the tide!
0:17:05 > 0:17:09- At least once a month, - a car gets stuck here.
0:17:10 > 0:17:12- The real pilgrims...
0:17:14 > 0:17:16- ..walked to the island...
0:17:16 > 0:17:21- ..by following - the line of poles in the sand.
0:17:22 > 0:17:26- If they were caught by the tide...
0:17:26 > 0:17:31- ..they made a dash - for those wooden huts...
0:17:31 > 0:17:34- ..and sheltered there - until the tide turned!
0:17:38 > 0:17:42- Lindisfarne Abbey, established - in the early 7th century...
0:17:42 > 0:17:46- ..was a branch of - the Christian community on Iona...
0:17:46 > 0:17:49- ..off the west coast of Scotland.
0:17:50 > 0:17:52- It was part of a mission...
0:17:53 > 0:17:56- ..to reintroduce - Christianity throughout England.
0:17:57 > 0:18:02- It soon became - the most holy island in Britain.
0:18:04 > 0:18:09- It's no surprise that the island - attracts 150,000 of pilgrims...
0:18:09 > 0:18:11- ..every year.
0:18:12 > 0:18:17- It's where the famous Lindisfarne - Gospels were produced...
0:18:17 > 0:18:22- ..and where parts of the Bible - was first translated into English.
0:18:23 > 0:18:28- But it was the reign of St Cuthbert - that made Lindisfarne famous.
0:18:28 > 0:18:31- He was the sixth abbot.
0:18:32 > 0:18:36- He was a shrewd leader - of the Church in difficult times.
0:18:37 > 0:18:40- When his duties permitted...
0:18:41 > 0:18:45- ..he retreated from the other monks - to stand in the sea and pray.
0:18:47 > 0:18:49- When he came out of the sea...
0:18:49 > 0:18:55- ..two otters ran to him, - breathed on his feet to warm them...
0:18:55 > 0:18:59- ..and dry them with their fur.
0:19:00 > 0:19:02- On this remote island...
0:19:03 > 0:19:06- ..the monks' lives - were governed by the seasons.
0:19:07 > 0:19:11- Cuthbert was arguably - the first ever nature reservist.
0:19:11 > 0:19:15- He banned the practice of - hunting wild ducks and seabirds...
0:19:16 > 0:19:18- ..and collecting their eggs.
0:19:18 > 0:19:23- The location - of Lindisfarne Abbey on an island...
0:19:23 > 0:19:25- ..was a curse as well as a blessing.
0:19:26 > 0:19:27- Due to its remoteness...
0:19:28 > 0:19:32- ..the Abbey became an important - cultural and spiritual centre...
0:19:32 > 0:19:34- ..full of treasures.
0:19:35 > 0:19:39- But it was also - an easy target from the sea.
0:19:41 > 0:19:45- The Vikings first attacked in 793.
0:19:45 > 0:19:49- After a series - of similar, savage campaigns...
0:19:49 > 0:19:52- ..the monks were forced to flee.
0:19:53 > 0:19:55- After they left the island...
0:19:56 > 0:20:00- ..things gradually - went back to the natural state...
0:20:01 > 0:20:03- ..which first attracted them.
0:20:06 > 0:20:09- Enlli - is the final island I'm visiting.
0:20:10 > 0:20:14- This little island - was familiar to the Vikings.
0:20:14 > 0:20:18- They gave Enlli her English name, - Bardsey.
0:20:19 > 0:20:23- It's said 20,000 saints - are buried here.
0:20:24 > 0:20:28- Why did they venture - to cross the Sound to Enlli?
0:20:30 > 0:20:31- In many traditions...
0:20:32 > 0:20:36- ..crossing water represents - the journey to a better place...
0:20:36 > 0:20:38- ..some sort of paradise.
0:20:38 > 0:20:42- The Vikings sent their dead out - to sea in ships that were ablaze.
0:20:42 > 0:20:44- In Maori legend...
0:20:44 > 0:20:48- ..souls gathered at the - country's most northerly point...
0:20:48 > 0:20:51- ..before embarking - on their final journey.
0:20:52 > 0:20:55- In India, - after the body is burned...
0:20:55 > 0:21:00- ..the ashes are scattered on - the Ganga to be carried out to sea.
0:21:04 > 0:21:08- Crossing to Enlli was sacred, - according to the Welsh.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11- But its sanctity - was known beyond Wales.
0:21:11 > 0:21:14- In the early 12th century...
0:21:15 > 0:21:19- ..Pope Calixtus II declared - that three pilgrimages to Enlli...
0:21:20 > 0:21:23- ..was as valuable as one to Rome.
0:21:24 > 0:21:27- If that sounds like an easy option, - it wasn't.
0:21:27 > 0:21:31- Crossing to Enlli - has always been perilous.
0:21:31 > 0:21:33- In the 19th century...
0:21:33 > 0:21:39- ..there would be a shipwreck - every other year on Bardsey Sound.
0:21:39 > 0:21:40- To this day...
0:21:41 > 0:21:45- ..the ship to the island is - often cancelled due to bad weather.
0:21:46 > 0:21:50- To many pilgrims, - coming to St Mary's Well...
0:21:51 > 0:21:52- ..behind me...
0:21:53 > 0:21:55- ..was a consolation prize.
0:21:56 > 0:21:59- Even though the waves - wash over it at high tide...
0:22:00 > 0:22:06- ..its water - is miraculously clear and unsalted.
0:22:07 > 0:22:11- To many pilgrims, - this was the journey's end.
0:22:13 > 0:22:18- And unfortunately for me, - it was my journey's end, too.
0:22:19 > 0:22:24- I wouldn't be crossing today. I - could only stare at Enlli from afar.
0:22:28 > 0:22:30- At the tip of Lleyn...
0:22:31 > 0:22:36- ..where better - to meditate about the horizon?
0:22:38 > 0:22:43- Enlli lies - between us and the horizon.
0:22:43 > 0:22:47- It's almost within reach - yet unreachable...
0:22:47 > 0:22:49- ..out there in the sea.
0:22:49 > 0:22:53- I wonder if Enlli...
0:22:54 > 0:22:57- ..was the island - at the top of Mappa Mundi?
0:22:58 > 0:23:02- A stepping stone - between this world and the next...
0:23:03 > 0:23:06- ..somewhere eternal - yet inaccessible?
0:23:07 > 0:23:10- We certainly can't get there today.
0:23:10 > 0:23:13- Perhaps that's more apt.
0:23:14 > 0:23:17- Sometimes it's better - to pause on the journey...
0:23:18 > 0:23:19- ..to meditate...
0:23:19 > 0:23:23- ..than reach the promised land.
0:23:48 > 0:23:51- S4C Subtitles by Gwead
0:23:51 > 0:23:52- .