Fferm Llwydfaen, Dyffryn Conwy 1

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0:00:06 > 0:00:10- My name's Dr Iestyn Jones. Some - of you might know me as an actor.

0:00:10 > 0:00:14- I'm passionate - about archaeology and history...

0:00:14 > 0:00:17- ..which led me - to obtain a doctorate in the field.

0:00:18 > 0:00:22- For more than 10 years, I've worked - as a professional archaeologist.

0:00:22 > 0:00:27- Throughout this series, I'll visit - sites up and down the country...

0:00:27 > 0:00:32- ..that have never been excavated - before, to uncover Wales' history.

0:00:38 > 0:00:42- We'll focus on new - archaeological sites every week...

0:00:42 > 0:00:47- ..giving the findings in each area - a historical context.

0:00:48 > 0:00:52- Our journey begins in the - Conwy Valley at the River Conwy...

0:00:52 > 0:00:57- ..an ancient waterway and gateway - to the mountains of North Wales...

0:00:57 > 0:01:00- ..which define - historical boundaries.

0:01:03 > 0:01:06- Llwydfaen is a 200-year-old farm...

0:01:06 > 0:01:11- ..overlooking Bodnant Garden - on the eastern bank of the river...

0:01:11 > 0:01:15- ..situated less than a kilometre - from the Tal-y-Cafn bridge.

0:01:15 > 0:01:19- We will return to this bridge - later in the series.

0:01:20 > 0:01:22- Why have we chosen - to dig in this field?

0:01:23 > 0:01:26- There's little to see here. - At the moment, at least.

0:01:26 > 0:01:29- But back in 2006...

0:01:29 > 0:01:33- ..bald patches appeared where - the sun had scorched the grass.

0:01:34 > 0:01:37- Most of the markings were amorphous.

0:01:37 > 0:01:39- None were a definite shape.

0:01:39 > 0:01:44- But one of them - looked rather interesting.

0:01:46 > 0:01:51- During very hot summers - yes, all - those scorching summers we endure...

0:01:51 > 0:01:55- ..outlines - of ancient structures emerge...

0:01:55 > 0:01:59- ..as the grass above old foundations - is singed and turns yellow.

0:02:00 > 0:02:02- This is what happened in 2006...

0:02:02 > 0:02:05- ..giving us a glimpse - of what's beneath the earth.

0:02:06 > 0:02:09- Experts believe - a 12th-century church stood here.

0:02:09 > 0:02:15- If so, why isn't it east-facing like - other churches from the same period?

0:02:17 > 0:02:20- I'm going to need assistance.

0:02:21 > 0:02:25- Luckily, we've enlisted the help - of local volunteers.

0:02:26 > 0:02:30- Rhys Mwyn, an expert - on North Wales' archaeology...

0:02:30 > 0:02:33- ..Hannah Morris - an archaeology graduate...

0:02:33 > 0:02:37- ..and Jerry Bond - and Dr Erika Guttmann-Bond...

0:02:37 > 0:02:41- ..who have decades of experience - in archaeology.

0:02:45 > 0:02:48- With the digger at the ready...

0:02:48 > 0:02:51- ..we decided - where to dig our first trench.

0:02:51 > 0:02:56- Across the apse, - in the southern portion of the ruin.

0:03:16 > 0:03:20- We've just started digging, - but it's not quite what we expected.

0:03:20 > 0:03:24- The earth is very dry. - What are your thoughts, Rhys?

0:03:24 > 0:03:28- It's incredibly dry. Very little - rain has penetrated the soil.

0:03:29 > 0:03:33- As Jeff is demonstrating, - it's very hard down there.

0:03:34 > 0:03:38- It's going to be tough. There's - a cluster of stones in the middle.

0:03:38 > 0:03:42- It's forming some kind of line, - as if a wall once stood there.

0:03:43 > 0:03:47- It's not as structured and formal - as I thought it'd be.

0:03:47 > 0:03:52- What's strange is that the - aerial view shows very clear lines.

0:03:52 > 0:03:56- I expected to uncover foundations...

0:03:56 > 0:03:58- ..that had remained intact.

0:03:59 > 0:04:04- This looks more like the remnants of - a wall, or stones that have fallen.

0:04:04 > 0:04:09- But it's our job to clean it up...

0:04:09 > 0:04:11- ..and see what it reveals.

0:04:11 > 0:04:13- Enough talking.

0:04:13 > 0:04:17- On every dig, modern soil - must be removed carefully...

0:04:17 > 0:04:19- ..to reach the ancient remains.

0:04:20 > 0:04:23- It must be raked - and scraped with a trowel...

0:04:23 > 0:04:26- ..to reveal - the archaeological layers.

0:04:26 > 0:04:28- It's meticulous - and laborious work.

0:04:29 > 0:04:32- We decided to dig a second trench...

0:04:32 > 0:04:34- ..across the northern end...

0:04:35 > 0:04:39- ..hoping to find an entrance - or remains from the Middle Ages...

0:04:40 > 0:04:43- ..when our church - was originally built.

0:04:47 > 0:04:51- By removing the earth, the wall - appears a little straighter now.

0:04:52 > 0:04:54- We're using the mattock...

0:04:54 > 0:04:57- ..and clearing the earth - with a trowel.

0:04:57 > 0:05:01- Hopefully - it'll reveal a straight line.

0:05:01 > 0:05:06- The wall begins to emerge, although - it appears slightly crooked.

0:05:06 > 0:05:09- I'm quite certain - it's the recess of an apse...

0:05:09 > 0:05:13- ..with its stones dislodged, - making it look crooked.

0:05:13 > 0:05:16- Or the stones - have been moved by a plough.

0:05:16 > 0:05:19- Meanwhile, in the second trench...

0:05:20 > 0:05:25- At this end, - we've dug down to the wall.

0:05:25 > 0:05:30- There's some yellow stuff there, - which might be to do with the wall.

0:05:30 > 0:05:34- We've found the same thing - over there, which is interesting.

0:05:34 > 0:05:38- There's something very dark here. - It looks like charcoal.

0:05:39 > 0:05:41- It's obvious something's burnt.

0:05:41 > 0:05:45- There are also bits - of orange and pink in the middle...

0:05:45 > 0:05:48- ..that might be - fragments of pottery.

0:05:48 > 0:05:52- It's impossible to tell - what sort of pottery it is...

0:05:52 > 0:05:57- ..but it certainly indicates - that it's been made my hand.

0:06:02 > 0:06:04- This charcoal is very black.

0:06:04 > 0:06:06- Good.

0:06:06 > 0:06:09- Finding charcoal - isn't revolutionary...

0:06:10 > 0:06:13- ..but it proves that humans - have left their mark on the land.

0:06:14 > 0:06:17- It's a small indication - of man's intervention.

0:06:17 > 0:06:19- Are there more signs?

0:06:19 > 0:06:25- This is very odd. We've received the - findings from the magnetic reading.

0:06:25 > 0:06:31- I expect it to be the same shape - as the singed markings on the field.

0:06:32 > 0:06:36- This doesn't look the same shape, - does it?

0:06:39 > 0:06:42- You'd expect - these stones to have been burnt.

0:06:42 > 0:06:45- You'd see charred remains.

0:06:45 > 0:06:48- These don't look - as if they've been burnt.

0:06:48 > 0:06:51- There are some over there - but none here.

0:06:52 > 0:06:55- Why are we - talking so much about burning?

0:06:55 > 0:06:59- One theory is that the Normans - erected a church on this site...

0:06:59 > 0:07:03- ..and the Welsh burnt it - to the ground...

0:07:03 > 0:07:06- ..which would explain - its disappearance.

0:07:07 > 0:07:09- I'm very happy. - Things are going well.

0:07:10 > 0:07:13- In the southern part, - there's an apse.

0:07:13 > 0:07:19- Apses are typical architectural - features of early Norman churches.

0:07:20 > 0:07:21- Talking of early churches...

0:07:22 > 0:07:25- ..one of Wales' oldest - is a mile in that direction.

0:07:25 > 0:07:27- Llangelynin.

0:07:27 > 0:07:31- Not only is it - one of Wales' oldest churches...

0:07:31 > 0:07:35- ..it is certainly one of the - country's quaintest and most remote.

0:07:44 > 0:07:49- The church was named after - the sixth-century saint, Celynin.

0:07:50 > 0:07:54- On the same site are the ruins - of an early roundhouse...

0:07:54 > 0:07:59- ..where, according to romantic - tales, St Celynin himself lived.

0:08:00 > 0:08:04- From this beauty spot, nestling - in the Tal y Fan mountain...

0:08:04 > 0:08:07- ..you can look out to sea - and the Conwy Valley...

0:08:08 > 0:08:10- ..and follow the river for miles.

0:08:18 > 0:08:22- Naturally, - this isn't the original church.

0:08:22 > 0:08:27- A more primitive structure - would've existed here originally.

0:08:27 > 0:08:32- Most of the building, as it appears - now, dates back to the 12th century.

0:08:43 > 0:08:45- If the Normans - established a church here...

0:08:46 > 0:08:49- ..knowing a Welsh church - existed less than a mile away...

0:08:50 > 0:08:52- ..it would've taunted the Welsh.

0:08:52 > 0:08:56- It explains why natives - would want to burn it down.

0:09:00 > 0:09:02- But where are - these charred remains?

0:09:02 > 0:09:06- Where are - those large chunks of charcoal...

0:09:06 > 0:09:09- ..and stones - discoloured by the heat?

0:09:09 > 0:09:14- Where's the evidence to prove this - church was built in the Middle Ages?

0:09:14 > 0:09:18- No evidence - has come to light so far.

0:09:18 > 0:09:22- There are foundation stones - to be seen, and ancient mortar...

0:09:23 > 0:09:25- ..but nothing to provide - an accurate date.

0:09:28 > 0:09:33- It's frustrating, with everyone - purposefully digging and sifting.

0:09:33 > 0:09:35- Iestyn!

0:09:45 > 0:09:47- I think it's a Roman coin.

0:09:50 > 0:09:53- That's nice. There's a cross on it.

0:09:55 > 0:09:59- It could be a token or a coin.

0:09:59 > 0:10:03- Quite possibly Roman. We'll - get an expert to authenticate it.

0:10:03 > 0:10:07- A Roman artefact? What's that doing - in a medieval church?

0:10:08 > 0:10:10- How strange.

0:10:12 > 0:10:12- .

0:10:13 > 0:10:13- *

0:10:13 > 0:10:15- Before the break...

0:10:16 > 0:10:19- ..we unearthed a Roman artefact...

0:10:19 > 0:10:22- ..in the second trench, - the northern trench.

0:10:22 > 0:10:26- We'll hear more about - the Romans in the area later...

0:10:26 > 0:10:31- ..but we're still searching - for an entrance or other objects.

0:10:31 > 0:10:33- Back in trench number one...

0:10:36 > 0:10:38- Iestyn, - it's worth taking a look at this.

0:10:39 > 0:10:42- It raises a few questions.

0:10:42 > 0:10:45- We've unearthed - some stones in the centre here...

0:10:46 > 0:10:48- ..and I suspect what we have...

0:10:48 > 0:10:53- ..is what I would call - a clay corner structure...

0:10:53 > 0:10:57- ..because it comes right the way - around the other side.

0:10:57 > 0:11:02- From afar, it looks like - there's a clay surface...

0:11:02 > 0:11:05- ..and the stones - have been added later.

0:11:05 > 0:11:09- I agree. That colour's - very different from this colour.

0:11:09 > 0:11:12- Though it's dry, - there's a clear difference.

0:11:12 > 0:11:16- If you stand away from it, - it's more noticeable.

0:11:16 > 0:11:19- The stones are enclosed too.

0:11:20 > 0:11:23- It's interesting.

0:11:23 > 0:11:26- Some of the stones - are interesting too.

0:11:26 > 0:11:28- This one, in particular.

0:11:28 > 0:11:33- It looks as if - it's been cut into that shape.

0:11:35 > 0:11:39- When you see - a stone at an angle like this...

0:11:39 > 0:11:42- ..it suggests - that the stones lean into a hole.

0:11:43 > 0:11:44- As if they've caved in.

0:11:45 > 0:11:49- We have an outline of a circular - shape outside the church...

0:11:49 > 0:11:53- ..to the west - of the exterior stone wall.

0:11:53 > 0:11:57- Is the yellow colour significant? - Is it elsewhere here?

0:11:57 > 0:12:01- How's it going, Hannah?

0:12:01 > 0:12:05- It's going well. - We can see a new layer emerging.

0:12:06 > 0:12:09- Beneath the top layer of soil - is the yellow clay.

0:12:10 > 0:12:13- It's the same hard yellow stuff - that's in the wall.

0:12:16 > 0:12:19- We've been able - to accurately measure the apse.

0:12:19 > 0:12:22- It's four metres long - by four metres wide.

0:12:22 > 0:12:25- We know - there's a building in Llwydfaen...

0:12:25 > 0:12:28- ..that's 20m long - by eight metres wide.

0:12:28 > 0:12:33- Five miles to the north are the - ruins of a much bigger structure...

0:12:33 > 0:12:35- ..with a very bloody history.

0:12:39 > 0:12:42- These are the ruins - of Deganwy Castle.

0:12:42 > 0:12:46- A court or a castle has stood on - this site since the sixth century...

0:12:46 > 0:12:49- ..when Maelgwn Gwynedd was king.

0:12:49 > 0:12:54- Archaeologists excavated here in the - 1960s and discovered an amphora...

0:12:55 > 0:12:58- ..a large earthenware jug - to hold wine.

0:12:58 > 0:13:02- It's obvious that wine - was imported during this era.

0:13:03 > 0:13:05- This was an area of high status.

0:13:05 > 0:13:08- Later, the site - was invaded by the Normans...

0:13:08 > 0:13:13- ..before Llywelyn the Great - built a castle here.

0:13:13 > 0:13:17- Archaeologists - found a sculpture of a head...

0:13:17 > 0:13:21- ..which could have possibly been - Llywelyn the Great himself.

0:13:23 > 0:13:26- Large towers - stood on both these hills...

0:13:27 > 0:13:29- ..with an adjoining stone wall.

0:13:31 > 0:13:34- The castle - was extended and fortified...

0:13:34 > 0:13:38- ..by both the Welsh and the Normans - over many centuries.

0:13:40 > 0:13:45- But the fort was eventually razed - by the Welshmen of Gwynedd...

0:13:46 > 0:13:48- ..to prevent English occupation.

0:13:50 > 0:13:54- By the end of the 13th century, - when King Edward came to Wales...

0:13:54 > 0:13:59- ..he built a castle on the - opposite side of the River Conwy.

0:14:00 > 0:14:05- The Welshmen's ancient fort, - high on the hills near Deganwy...

0:14:05 > 0:14:08- ..would've overlooked - the river and the estuary.

0:14:09 > 0:14:13- But it was Edward's intention - to prevent access to the river.

0:14:13 > 0:14:18- The fact the men of Gwynedd erected - a fort on the southern bank...

0:14:18 > 0:14:22- ..was a powerful statement of - their intent to rule the territory.

0:14:22 > 0:14:26- Edward built his castle - on the western bank...

0:14:26 > 0:14:30- ..to demonstrate - his intention to seize Gwynedd.

0:14:39 > 0:14:42- The banks of the river - became battlefields...

0:14:43 > 0:14:46- ..the most famous of which - was the Battle of Cymryd...

0:14:46 > 0:14:48- ..fought near Glan Conwy.

0:14:50 > 0:14:55- This stretch of river has seen - numerous battles over the years.

0:14:55 > 0:14:59- Around 1,200 years ago, - a bloody battle took place here.

0:14:59 > 0:15:04- The Battle of Cymryd, between - the Anglo Saxons, led by Ethelred...

0:15:04 > 0:15:07- ..and the men of Gwynedd, - led by Anarawd...

0:15:07 > 0:15:11- ..became known as - "God's vengeance for Rhodri"...

0:15:11 > 0:15:14- ..following the death - of Rhodri the Great.

0:15:14 > 0:15:16- The Welsh were victorious...

0:15:16 > 0:15:20- ..forcing the Anglo Saxons - out of North Wales.

0:15:24 > 0:15:27- If a Norman church - is unearthed here...

0:15:27 > 0:15:30- ..then - the new arrivals must learn...

0:15:30 > 0:15:32- ..that we're here to stay.

0:15:32 > 0:15:35- But no other ruins - have been detected.

0:15:35 > 0:15:40- The geophysical technology hasn't - detected neither a path nor a hedge.

0:15:41 > 0:15:44- We've unearthed walls - of Romanesque architecture...

0:15:45 > 0:15:49- ..which are typical - of 12th-century churches...

0:15:49 > 0:15:53- ..but no medieval discoveries - - not one single Norman artefact.

0:15:53 > 0:15:56- There's a strange dip - outside the church.

0:15:56 > 0:15:58- It's rather baffling.

0:15:58 > 0:16:00- We've reached the end of day two.

0:16:01 > 0:16:04- We've dug down to the apse, - which is clear to see.

0:16:04 > 0:16:09- There's something strange over - there. We'll find out more tomorrow.

0:16:09 > 0:16:12- Come with me to trench number two.

0:16:16 > 0:16:19- This is - a little bit more complicated.

0:16:21 > 0:16:26- The structure's wall is beginning - to emerge, and we can see it here.

0:16:26 > 0:16:28- It's a white stripe with stones.

0:16:28 > 0:16:33- Hopefully this is the northern wall - of the building, which you can see.

0:16:33 > 0:16:39- Interestingly, there's some - clay here that has been burnt.

0:16:39 > 0:16:43- Hopefully this is - the top of the wall...

0:16:44 > 0:16:47- ..which leads - all the way from over there.

0:16:48 > 0:16:51- We'll reveal more - as we dig deeper tomorrow.

0:17:05 > 0:17:08- We've gone - from one extreme to the other.

0:17:08 > 0:17:11- It was too dry yesterday - and now it's too wet...

0:17:11 > 0:17:15- ..although water doesn't affect - archaeology, so we'll carry on.

0:17:15 > 0:17:20- Water clears the dust, which is a - pain when you've cleaned an area...

0:17:20 > 0:17:22- ..only for dust - to settle on it again.

0:17:23 > 0:17:25- Discolourations are visible - when it's wet.

0:17:26 > 0:17:30- You can see natural brown earth - and the yellow mortar of the walls.

0:17:31 > 0:17:34- We've found the remains - of huge circular stones...

0:17:34 > 0:17:36- ..that the plough couldn't move.

0:17:36 > 0:17:38- But what else?

0:17:38 > 0:17:41- We've been very busy cleaning.

0:17:41 > 0:17:45- Brian has cleaned - the western wall of the structure.

0:17:47 > 0:17:50- This line - defines the wall beautifully.

0:17:50 > 0:17:53- The difference in the earth - is very clear.

0:17:54 > 0:17:57- Beneath the grass, - the wall stretches along here...

0:17:58 > 0:18:00- ..through the second trench.

0:18:00 > 0:18:02- It'll become clearer later.

0:18:02 > 0:18:04- If we go over here...

0:18:04 > 0:18:09- ..the northern section of the wall - runs through here under my feet...

0:18:09 > 0:18:13- ..which means that - the corner is somewhere here...

0:18:13 > 0:18:16- ..if the geophysical plot - is correct.

0:18:16 > 0:18:19- We're going to dig a trench - all the way from there...

0:18:19 > 0:18:21- ..to see if this is the corner.

0:18:22 > 0:18:25- But the constant rainfall...

0:18:25 > 0:18:28- ..put paid - to our archaeological work.

0:18:29 > 0:18:31- I hope they come back tomorrow!

0:18:38 > 0:18:41- It rained - for most of the day, worse luck...

0:18:42 > 0:18:44- ..but we've managed to dig deeper.

0:18:44 > 0:18:46- This is trench number one.

0:18:46 > 0:18:51- In trench number two over here, - we're planning out the area...

0:18:51 > 0:18:54- ..to make sure it's all on record.

0:18:54 > 0:18:56- We're digging deeper - and tidying up.

0:18:56 > 0:19:00- There's a great deal of work - to be done before we finish.

0:19:01 > 0:19:03- I don't know why I'm smiling.

0:19:03 > 0:19:05- We've uncovered walls...

0:19:05 > 0:19:08- ..and an outline - of a possible Norman church...

0:19:09 > 0:19:14- ..on the Welsh side of the river, - but no concrete evidence as yet.

0:19:14 > 0:19:17- Before digging further - to the depths of the site...

0:19:18 > 0:19:22- ..we must record what's visible - after removing the top layers.

0:19:22 > 0:19:26- We must note every stone and mark - the size and location of each area.

0:19:27 > 0:19:29- It's a laborious process...

0:19:29 > 0:19:31- ..but completely necessary.

0:19:32 > 0:19:34- I need evidence - to be able to date the site.

0:19:34 > 0:19:37- I'm worried - we'll find nothing at all.

0:19:37 > 0:19:40- Now, where's that trowel?

0:19:56 > 0:20:00- I'm digging deeper into this hole - for a very good reason.

0:20:01 > 0:20:03- This was removed from there.

0:20:03 > 0:20:05- I'm sure it's sandstone...

0:20:05 > 0:20:09- ..but it's very different - from all the other stones.

0:20:09 > 0:20:13- From looking around, - all the stones are curved.

0:20:13 > 0:20:15- There are no edges.

0:20:15 > 0:20:18- But this - has been carved and it's square.

0:20:18 > 0:20:21- It's a building block, - probably from a wall.

0:20:22 > 0:20:24- A great deal of work - has gone into this.

0:20:25 > 0:20:28- I want to find out - if there are more in this hole.

0:20:28 > 0:20:34- It's a good start, and once digging - resumes after the recording...

0:20:34 > 0:20:37- ..the earth - reveals more of its secrets.

0:20:37 > 0:20:39- We've found another coin.

0:20:44 > 0:20:46- Take a look. - I just found this over there.

0:20:47 > 0:20:48- It looks Roman to me.

0:20:48 > 0:20:49- It looks Roman to me.- - It's definitely Roman.

0:20:50 > 0:20:52- It's a Roman coin.

0:20:53 > 0:20:55- You can see the face...

0:20:55 > 0:20:57- ..and also a beard.

0:20:58 > 0:20:59- Is there writing?

0:20:59 > 0:21:03- Is there writing?- - Yes, but I can't see the letters.

0:21:03 > 0:21:05- That's interesting.

0:21:07 > 0:21:10- More Roman artefacts.

0:21:10 > 0:21:12- This is the second coin.

0:21:13 > 0:21:15- In no time at all, - more items emerge.

0:21:15 > 0:21:18- Slate and pottery.

0:21:18 > 0:21:21- Small fragments - which are difficult to authenticate.

0:21:22 > 0:21:26- By dating the pottery, we'll - have a definite date for our church.

0:21:26 > 0:21:29- We can use pottery - to date buildings...

0:21:29 > 0:21:33- ..because the type of clay - used to make the pottery...

0:21:33 > 0:21:36- ..varied from place to place - over the centuries.

0:21:36 > 0:21:39- Amid all the excitement - comes another shock.

0:21:40 > 0:21:42- Did this come from over there?

0:21:53 > 0:21:56- Let me inspect - this piece of pottery.

0:22:03 > 0:22:05- This is interesting.

0:22:06 > 0:22:10- This is Samian ware pottery.

0:22:10 > 0:22:15- It had a high Roman status - though it's from France.

0:22:17 > 0:22:19- What's this doing here?

0:22:22 > 0:22:28- Well, I was expecting to find - medieval objects here...

0:22:28 > 0:22:32- ..in keeping - with a church from the Middle Ages.

0:22:32 > 0:22:36- But this is definitely Roman - and we've unearthed Roman coins.

0:22:40 > 0:22:43- Is this a Roman building...

0:22:44 > 0:22:46- ..rather than a medieval church?

0:22:47 > 0:22:50- This radically changes things now.

0:22:50 > 0:22:55- Uncovering a Roman building - on the banks of the River Conwy...

0:22:55 > 0:22:58- ..would change - the area's history overnight.

0:22:58 > 0:23:02- Next time, the story - behind this remarkable site unfolds.

0:23:22 > 0:23:24- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:24 > 0:23:24- .