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0:00:25 > 0:00:31- Lleyn and Religion
0:00:35 > 0:00:38- Looking back, it's no surprise...
0:00:39 > 0:00:42- ..that religion has played - an important part in my life.
0:00:44 > 0:00:48- I was raised - on the outskirts of Llangian.
0:00:48 > 0:00:50- Walking through the village...
0:00:51 > 0:00:55- ..conjures up a mixture - of happiness and longing.
0:00:55 > 0:00:57- People like to come in for a chat.
0:00:57 > 0:00:59- People like to come in for a chat.- - I noticed the chair!
0:01:01 > 0:01:03- Looking at Llangian today...
0:01:03 > 0:01:07- ..who would imagine - a huge row in Smyrna chapel?
0:01:08 > 0:01:10- It tore the village in two.
0:01:11 > 0:01:14- Is it safe to reveal - the cause of the rift?
0:01:16 > 0:01:19- You might find out more - about that later.
0:01:19 > 0:01:25- From a fifty-strong congregation - at this small, rural chapel...
0:01:25 > 0:01:28- ..four of us became ministers.
0:01:28 > 0:01:31- Not everyone accepted my decision.
0:01:31 > 0:01:33- I remember Mam saying...
0:01:33 > 0:01:38- "..If you can resist, don't do it. - I'd rather you didn't."
0:01:38 > 0:01:40- That was Mam's advice.
0:01:40 > 0:01:46- Over the years, in difficult times, - I've tended to agree with her.
0:01:47 > 0:01:49- My father was quietly proud.
0:01:49 > 0:01:53- He wasn't overly supportive, - but in his heart...
0:01:54 > 0:01:57- ..I think he was more supportive.
0:01:58 > 0:02:02- I don't know how the calling came.
0:02:03 > 0:02:07- It was there - from when I was a small child.
0:02:08 > 0:02:11- It became stronger over the years.
0:02:16 > 0:02:21- We consider religion in Lleyn - as something quiet and peaceful.
0:02:21 > 0:02:27- But there has always been excitement, - like a simmering cauldron.
0:02:29 > 0:02:32- People's strong convictions - led to arguments.
0:02:33 > 0:02:35- They hurt each other too.
0:02:35 > 0:02:40- St Pedrog's Church personifies - the excitement of the Cromwell era.
0:02:40 > 0:02:42- # ECCLESIASTICAL MUSIC #
0:02:54 > 0:02:57- The parishioners of Llanbedrog...
0:02:58 > 0:03:02- ..heard that Cromwell and his men - were marching to Lleyn.
0:03:03 > 0:03:07- The first thing that they did - was to remove this...
0:03:07 > 0:03:10- ..and bury it on the beach.
0:03:11 > 0:03:16- When Cromwell left, they put it back - and it has been here ever since.
0:03:16 > 0:03:19- All over Britain, - hundreds of these...
0:03:19 > 0:03:23- ..were burnt and destroyed - by Cromwell's soldiers.
0:03:23 > 0:03:25- # ECCLESIASTICAL MUSIC #
0:03:27 > 0:03:33- Cromwell wasn't overly fond - of the Church and its traditions...
0:03:33 > 0:03:37- ..nor with the link - between the Church and the Crown.
0:03:37 > 0:03:40- He stabled his horses in this church.
0:03:40 > 0:03:43- Yes, for a while. Disgraceful.
0:03:43 > 0:03:45- I lean to the left theologically...
0:03:46 > 0:03:50- ..but the idea of turning a church - into stables is disgraceful.
0:03:50 > 0:03:51- Yes.
0:03:51 > 0:03:53- Yes.- - What about that window?
0:03:56 > 0:03:58- This was the window.
0:03:59 > 0:04:01- There's a story associated with it.
0:04:01 > 0:04:02- There's a story associated with it.- - Oh, yes.
0:04:03 > 0:04:07- In one respect, - it's more important than the screen.
0:04:07 > 0:04:13- Cromwell managed to destroy - the window, unlike the screen.
0:04:13 > 0:04:20- The glass dated back further - than the Protestant Revival...
0:04:20 > 0:04:23- ..probably to the 13th century.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26- They shattered the main window.
0:04:26 > 0:04:30- Llanbedrog parishioners - collected the glass.
0:04:30 > 0:04:34- They put it in a box and hid it - under the church doorstep.
0:04:35 > 0:04:39- Just over a century ago, in 1894...
0:04:40 > 0:04:43- ..the Madryn family - donated a tower to the church.
0:04:44 > 0:04:49- They had to dig foundations - for the tower.
0:04:50 > 0:04:55- While digging, - they found the box of glass.
0:04:56 > 0:04:59- They put the glass in the window.
0:05:06 > 0:05:12- Experts from all over Britain - come to see this important glass.
0:05:28 > 0:05:30- Life wasn't always easy.
0:05:32 > 0:05:35- As a minister, - I had tough decisions to make.
0:05:37 > 0:05:39- I started to write...
0:05:39 > 0:05:44- ..to escape to a world - where I could mention religion...
0:05:44 > 0:05:50- ..a minister, a chapel - and village life, and satirize it.
0:05:51 > 0:05:53- I could be gently satirical.
0:05:53 > 0:05:55- It was my salvation.
0:05:55 > 0:06:00- I created a world for myself - into which I could escape.
0:06:04 > 0:06:09- "Tell me, Jac, how and where - did Derlwyn Hughes die?"
0:06:11 > 0:06:14- "In Dwynwen Lightfoot's bed...
0:06:17 > 0:06:19- "..Lingerie Womenswear."
0:06:21 > 0:06:26- The minister rose as if in a trance - and walked to the door.
0:06:26 > 0:06:30- "You should have seen - the smile on his face!"
0:06:51 > 0:06:55- I'm more interested - in the history of religion...
0:06:55 > 0:06:58- ..than in religious ideology.
0:06:58 > 0:07:03- I have my beliefs - and I've thought things out.
0:07:03 > 0:07:07- I've rejected some things - and accepted others.
0:07:07 > 0:07:11- Philosophizing about religion - doesn't appeal to me much.
0:07:13 > 0:07:18- But the history of religion - and religious figures do appeal.
0:07:24 > 0:07:28- The history of religion - filled my old home...
0:07:28 > 0:07:32- ..halfway between Nanhoron - and Llangian.
0:07:34 > 0:07:38- It was once called Dark Lane, - which says it all.
0:07:43 > 0:07:49- Early Lleyn Nonconformists - met here to worship in secret.
0:07:52 > 0:07:55- Back in the 17th century...
0:07:55 > 0:07:59- ..the King's soldiers - persecuted anyone...
0:07:59 > 0:08:02- ..who dared worship - outside the mother church.
0:08:03 > 0:08:08- Worshippers blacked out windows - so that they wouldn't get caught.
0:08:09 > 0:08:13- That may be one explanation - for the name Dark Lane.
0:08:21 > 0:08:24- I'm proud of my connection - with these brave people.
0:08:24 > 0:08:28- They fought oppression - for the freedom to worship.
0:08:28 > 0:08:33- I'm a Nonconformist by nature. - Maybe this is where it came from.
0:08:34 > 0:08:40- Plenty of Lleyn folk have rebelled, - among them one of my great heroes.
0:08:41 > 0:08:45- I've a slight obsession - with the lady of the manor.
0:08:45 > 0:08:46- I'm here once again!
0:08:46 > 0:08:48- I'm here once again!- - How nice to see you.
0:08:48 > 0:08:49- How are you?
0:08:49 > 0:08:51- How are you?- - All the better for seeing you!
0:08:52 > 0:08:55- I've come looking for Catherine. - Is she still here?
0:08:55 > 0:08:58- I think she is. - Come and have a look.
0:08:58 > 0:09:02- Catherine Edwards was the mother - of Lleyn Nonconformity.
0:09:03 > 0:09:09- Her support enabled the early - Nonconformists to worship safely.
0:09:11 > 0:09:14- I've been rummaging - in the library for you.
0:09:14 > 0:09:19- I've found some books that belonged - to Catherine. This was her garden.
0:09:20 > 0:09:23- Bettina Harden, - the lady of the manor today...
0:09:24 > 0:09:27- ..shares my interest in Catherine.
0:09:27 > 0:09:32- This is one of her books, - which is about growing fruit trees.
0:09:32 > 0:09:37- To me, Catherine Edwards is a rebel - and a source of inspiration.
0:09:39 > 0:09:44- She was a young woman far from home - when she lost her husband.
0:09:44 > 0:09:49- At this difficult time, - she had a religious conversion.
0:09:49 > 0:09:53- She rejected her family's - ecclesiastical traditions...
0:09:54 > 0:09:59- ..to worship in Caernarfonshire's - first Nonconformist chapel.
0:09:59 > 0:10:04- It was unheard of - for a lady of her social status.
0:10:04 > 0:10:06- It must have been quite lonely.
0:10:07 > 0:10:11- She was English, not Welsh, - but she loved this place greatly.
0:10:11 > 0:10:16- She was a woman of spirit and - determination, and thoroughly nice.
0:10:20 > 0:10:25- In my schooldays, I'd walk past - the little whitewashed chapel...
0:10:25 > 0:10:29- ..with my friend, - John Gruffydd Jones.
0:10:30 > 0:10:32- It was a hard school.
0:10:32 > 0:10:34- I suppose so.
0:10:34 > 0:10:38- It's my fault - he has a scar on his eye.
0:10:39 > 0:10:45- I dodged to avoid a stone - and it hit Harri on the head.
0:10:46 > 0:10:49- The chapel fills me with fear.
0:10:50 > 0:10:52- I've only been inside once.
0:10:53 > 0:10:55- The bier is above the pulpit.
0:10:56 > 0:10:59- It frightened me - when I was a youngster.
0:10:59 > 0:11:01- The key fits.
0:11:04 > 0:11:09- I wonder if the bier - for the coffin is still there?
0:11:12 > 0:11:15- "Underfoot, only earth," - as Cynan said.
0:11:16 > 0:11:17- It's still on the wall.
0:11:17 > 0:11:19- It's still on the wall.- - There's the bier.
0:11:19 > 0:11:22- It scared me.
0:11:22 > 0:11:26- It hovered above the congregation.
0:11:28 > 0:11:31- It's awful!
0:11:32 > 0:11:34- This was the Plas Nanhoron pew.
0:11:35 > 0:11:37- It's impressive.
0:11:37 > 0:11:40- This is where Catherine Edwards sat.
0:11:41 > 0:11:42- Can you imagine her here?
0:11:42 > 0:11:45- Can you imagine her here?- - Directly in front of the minister.
0:11:45 > 0:11:48- I'm told that the window - above the pulpit...
0:11:48 > 0:11:51- ..was opened on fine days.
0:11:51 > 0:11:55- There were more people - outside than in.
0:11:55 > 0:11:58- They were listening.
0:11:59 > 0:12:04- It holds 120, but there were more - for a preaching assembly.
0:12:05 > 0:12:10- They opened the window - so that people outside could hear.
0:12:15 > 0:12:20- Coming up in part two, I set sail - in search of another Nonconformist.
0:12:21 > 0:12:26- What scandal still makes - some Methodists blush to this day?
0:12:27 > 0:12:31- He was a popular man. - Women were attracted to him.
0:12:31 > 0:12:34- He was considered a ladies' man.
0:12:39 > 0:12:39- .
0:12:42 > 0:12:42- 888
0:12:42 > 0:12:44- 888- - 888
0:12:47 > 0:12:51- Lleyn has drawn pilgrims - and sheltered Nonconformists.
0:12:51 > 0:12:53- In the 18th century...
0:12:54 > 0:12:59- ..the Methodist Revival pioneer, - Howell Harris...
0:12:59 > 0:13:01- ..was warmly welcomed here.
0:13:02 > 0:13:06- It was kept secret - because it was an embarrassment.
0:13:06 > 0:13:08- It would make a great film.
0:13:19 > 0:13:24- The story begins in October, 1748, - when Harris came to the area.
0:13:24 > 0:13:30- He held a meeting in Tregarnedd - that Sidney Griffith attended.
0:13:30 > 0:13:35- Harris was invited - to Cefnamwlch that night.
0:13:35 > 0:13:40- During their conversation, - he realized she had been called.
0:13:43 > 0:13:48- She'd had a religious conversion. - That's where the friendship began.
0:13:49 > 0:13:54- This is Coed Caerdydd - on the Cefnamwlch estate.
0:13:58 > 0:14:03- Howell Harris didn't just - convert people to Methodism.
0:14:10 > 0:14:15- He also charmed and was charmed - by the lady of Cefnamwlch Manor...
0:14:15 > 0:14:17- ..Madam Sidney Griffith.
0:14:18 > 0:14:22- Howell's wife, Anne, - wasn't exactly thrilled...
0:14:22 > 0:14:27- ..when Madam Sidney - landed at their home in Trefeca.
0:14:27 > 0:14:30- She often stayed for long periods.
0:14:31 > 0:14:35- Harris obviously wanted - the three of them to live together.
0:14:35 > 0:14:40- He wanted them to be - like the three strings of a rope...
0:14:41 > 0:14:42- ..tightly interwoven.
0:14:43 > 0:14:46- Anne Harris - wasn't going to accept that!
0:14:46 > 0:14:51- She was determined - that Sidney wouldn't move in.
0:14:53 > 0:14:56- But the truth is, Anne Harris - was a woman of her age.
0:14:57 > 0:15:01- Her husband had the last word - and Sidney Griffith moved in.
0:15:01 > 0:15:04- Her room was far superior to Anne's.
0:15:06 > 0:15:11- Harris described her - as his eye and his arm.
0:15:11 > 0:15:14- He had the idea - from the Old Testament.
0:15:14 > 0:15:18- God provided the eye - to recognize the truth...
0:15:18 > 0:15:21- ..and reveal the truth.
0:15:23 > 0:15:28- According to Howell Harris, - Sidney was one of these eyes...
0:15:28 > 0:15:33- ..people chosen by God - to prophesy the future.
0:15:36 > 0:15:40- While Howell Harris - fell for Sidney's charms...
0:15:40 > 0:15:42- ..back at Cefnamwlch in Lleyn...
0:15:43 > 0:15:47- ..her husband drank himself to death.
0:15:48 > 0:15:51- He fell downstairs - and broke his neck.
0:15:51 > 0:15:55- Sidney Griffith - received the news in Trefeca.
0:15:56 > 0:15:59- She had prophesied - that he would die...
0:15:59 > 0:16:02- ..as she prophesied - that Anne would die...
0:16:02 > 0:16:06- ..so that she and Howell Harris - could be together.
0:16:08 > 0:16:13- But Madam Sidney didn't prophesy - her own sudden death...
0:16:13 > 0:16:16- ..from tuberculosis, apparently.
0:16:16 > 0:16:18- It started a big scandal.
0:16:19 > 0:16:23- If it happened today, - your mobile wouldn't stop ringing!
0:16:23 > 0:16:25- It was a massive scandal.
0:16:26 > 0:16:30- Ordinary folk found it amusing. - It justified all their prejudices.
0:16:31 > 0:16:34- I don't doubt - that a lot of laughing went on.
0:16:42 > 0:16:46- "Tell me, Jac," asked the minister, - having seen the invalid.
0:16:47 > 0:16:52- "What exactly happened to you? - Everyone's talking about you."
0:16:52 > 0:16:56- "I've had a religious conversion!" - "What?" "Through the post!"
0:16:59 > 0:17:03- "It came from America - on a piece of paper.
0:17:03 > 0:17:06- "It cost several Tia Marias - to pay for it."
0:17:13 > 0:17:15- Being a minister can be difficult.
0:17:16 > 0:17:20- I'm with people at fateful times - in their lives.
0:17:26 > 0:17:28- I'm not an emotional creature.
0:17:29 > 0:17:32- I find it hard to weep in public.
0:17:33 > 0:17:36- I don't think a minister - should weep in public.
0:17:36 > 0:17:40- If I wept at every funeral, - I would despair.
0:17:41 > 0:17:44- I'm not one - for public displays of emotion.
0:17:44 > 0:17:47- But I feel it, like everyone else.
0:17:58 > 0:18:01- I have never understood - long illnesses.
0:18:01 > 0:18:04- I can't understand - people losing children.
0:18:05 > 0:18:08- There are no words or explanations...
0:18:08 > 0:18:11- ..but it's a relationship - that lasts a lifetime.
0:18:12 > 0:18:14- I could take you - to Caernarfon today...
0:18:15 > 0:18:18- ..to meet parents who lost a child.
0:18:18 > 0:18:22- Our friendship has lasted - through the years.
0:18:22 > 0:18:26- When we meet, our thoughts - turn to that hour, that day.
0:18:37 > 0:18:41- Smyrna chapel in Llangian - produced four ministers.
0:18:41 > 0:18:45- My friend, Dic, - who has sadly left us...
0:18:45 > 0:18:47- ..me...
0:18:47 > 0:18:50- ..and then later Robert and John.
0:18:51 > 0:18:54- I feel that this is where - I had my calling.
0:18:57 > 0:18:58- Would you agree?
0:18:59 > 0:19:03- Certainly to me. - I had a very early calling.
0:19:04 > 0:19:08- I wanted to be a minister - from when I was very young.
0:19:08 > 0:19:12- I remember Gwilym O Roberts's - Brillo sermon.
0:19:12 > 0:19:15- He referred to scouring saucepans!
0:19:15 > 0:19:17- It's the monkey sermon I remember!
0:19:18 > 0:19:24- Despite our debt to this chapel, - I remember a bitter dispute here.
0:19:24 > 0:19:29- I'd almost say that the dispute - helped me to see...
0:19:29 > 0:19:34- ..that the chapel community - had never been perfect.
0:19:38 > 0:19:40- It was an argument over the organ.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45- The organist - once faced the congregation.
0:19:45 > 0:19:50- The accompanist fell out - with members of the congregation.
0:19:50 > 0:19:55- There came a motion from the floor - to turn the organ around.
0:19:55 > 0:19:59- The organist would have her back - to the congregation.
0:20:01 > 0:20:05- They put it to the vote, - and it was a split vote.
0:20:05 > 0:20:11- Ann Jones kept the key in her apron - at the end of every service.
0:20:11 > 0:20:15- "Over my dead body will anyone - move the organ," she said.
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- But one night, Ann Jones - left the key in the lock.
0:20:20 > 0:20:22- Someone stole it.
0:20:22 > 0:20:25- Between two and three o'clock - one Monday morning...
0:20:26 > 0:20:30- ..two chapel members broke in - and moved the organ.
0:20:30 > 0:20:32- By Sunday morning...
0:20:32 > 0:20:36- ..the organist had her back - to the congregation.
0:20:36 > 0:20:39- It was a tragedy and a comedy.
0:20:43 > 0:20:48- Seeing imperfections in people - can be an advantage to a minister.
0:20:48 > 0:20:52- It's our imperfections - that identify us all.
0:21:02 > 0:21:04- I admire colourful people...
0:21:04 > 0:21:09- ..especially those who stand up - for what they believe in...
0:21:09 > 0:21:12- ..those willing to take a chance...
0:21:12 > 0:21:17- ..and those who aspire to realize - a dream without fearing failure.
0:21:21 > 0:21:24- There was a pagan wedding - on the island.
0:21:25 > 0:21:29- People tried to spy with binoculars - at the naked dancing!
0:21:33 > 0:21:38- Yvonne and Meirion from Abersoch - come fishing here often.
0:21:38 > 0:21:41- They're familiar with Chapel Bay.
0:21:41 > 0:21:46- The name refers to a monk's efforts - to establish a Papist monastery...
0:21:46 > 0:21:49- ..on the island in 1887.
0:21:50 > 0:21:52- He was called Father Hughes.
0:21:52 > 0:21:57- His dreams were shattered - because of a storm of protest...
0:21:57 > 0:22:01- ..from suspicious local people - and by a real storm.
0:22:03 > 0:22:09- These two islands have attracted - the adventurous, the eccentric...
0:22:10 > 0:22:12- ..and, by now, the wealthy.
0:22:12 > 0:22:16- Luxury boats anchor here - on a sunny day.
0:22:17 > 0:22:21- They form one row - and there's no room here.
0:22:21 > 0:22:26- They have parties, barbecues - and picnics on their gin palaces...
0:22:27 > 0:22:31- ..from early morning - till late at night.
0:22:31 > 0:22:33- Luxury boats?
0:22:33 > 0:22:36- Yes, they must cost a lot of money.
0:22:44 > 0:22:48- The adventurer Bear Grylls - owns one island.
0:22:48 > 0:22:51- The son of dramatist Carla Lane - owns the other.
0:22:52 > 0:22:56- Lleyn has a tradition - of attracting outsiders...
0:22:57 > 0:23:00- ..interesting and different people.
0:23:07 > 0:23:10- Religion is about people to me.
0:23:11 > 0:23:15- It's not a building of bricks - and mortar nor an establishment.
0:23:16 > 0:23:20- Religion has left its mark here - through the ages.
0:23:20 > 0:23:25- But to me, it's the people of Lleyn - who carried the cross.
0:23:26 > 0:23:30- Religion has rubbed off on me - through them.
0:23:51 > 0:23:53- S4C Subtitles by GWEAD
0:23:53 > 0:23:53- .