0:00:00 > 0:00:01- 888
0:00:01 > 0:00:06- I've been writing short stories - for quite a few years.
0:00:07 > 0:00:11- Some of them were recently narrated - to audiences on the Lleyn Peninsula.
0:00:12 > 0:00:14- I was born and raised in Lleyn.
0:00:15 > 0:00:22- I left long ago, but I'm going back - to rediscover my own personal Lleyn.
0:00:23 > 0:00:25- 888
0:00:30 > 0:00:32- 888
0:00:37 > 0:00:39- 888
0:00:50 > 0:00:55- Here, on the Lleyn Peninsula, - one is never far from the sea.
0:00:55 > 0:01:00- Strangely, as a child, it was - the sound of the sea I remember...
0:01:00 > 0:01:05- ..groaning from the depths - of Hell's Mouth in bad weather.
0:01:23 > 0:01:27- The sea has shaped the lives - of the people of Lleyn...
0:01:27 > 0:01:30- ..and was very important to them.
0:01:31 > 0:01:36- As an author, it has been - very important to me too.
0:01:36 > 0:01:41- There are dozens of caves like - this one on the Lleyn Peninsula.
0:01:41 > 0:01:43- I'm on Whistling Sands beach.
0:01:43 > 0:01:48- A cave like this one - was excellent for smugglers.
0:01:49 > 0:01:54- There was a lot of smuggling - here over the years...
0:01:54 > 0:01:57- ..of rare, or illegal, goods.
0:02:02 > 0:02:04- An exciting cargo was concealed...
0:02:04 > 0:02:09- ..after some Lleyn locals - got hold of it a century ago.
0:02:09 > 0:02:13- It was one of this coast's - most renowned shipwrecks.
0:02:13 > 0:02:18- The Stuart crashed into the rocks - of Porth Ty Mawr in 1901...
0:02:18 > 0:02:20- ..on a day of calm seas.
0:02:20 > 0:02:23- Its cargo would result - in leading everyone astray.
0:02:24 > 0:02:25- Good afternoon.
0:02:25 > 0:02:26- Good afternoon.- - Good afternoon.
0:02:26 > 0:02:31- Some of the plunder can - be found in some homes even now...
0:02:31 > 0:02:34- ..like here in Pwllheli.
0:02:34 > 0:02:36- These plates come from the Stuart?
0:02:36 > 0:02:38- These plates come from the Stuart?- - Yes, guaranteed.
0:02:38 > 0:02:41- How did you get them? - Did you steal them?
0:02:41 > 0:02:43- No!
0:02:43 > 0:02:50- One of the mates had lodgings - at Ty'n y Ffynnon, my father's home.
0:02:50 > 0:02:53- A mate on the Stuart?
0:02:53 > 0:02:54- Yes.
0:02:54 > 0:02:57- He was on the ship all day...
0:02:58 > 0:03:01- ..and he slept at Ty'n y Ffynnon.
0:03:01 > 0:03:04- He would bring a few items - under his coat.
0:03:07 > 0:03:13- Plates weren't what drove locals - crazy, but the main cargo...
0:03:13 > 0:03:15- ..whisky.
0:03:18 > 0:03:20- Tony Jones from Rhiw...
0:03:20 > 0:03:23- ..knows many of the story's secrets.
0:03:24 > 0:03:24- Come in.
0:03:24 > 0:03:26- Come in.- - Thank you.
0:03:26 > 0:03:29- So you have something from the ship.
0:03:29 > 0:03:31- Yes, this was part of the cargo.
0:03:31 > 0:03:36- It carried porcelain, bound for - New Zealand, but it never arrived.
0:03:36 > 0:03:38- Sailors called it general cargo.
0:03:39 > 0:03:40- What did the ship carry?
0:03:40 > 0:03:43- What did the ship carry?- - There were six grand pianos.
0:03:43 > 0:03:45- One Llangwnadl lad hurt his back...
0:03:46 > 0:03:50- ..trying to carry one - up the sea cliff.
0:03:50 > 0:03:54- There were whisky bottles - and whisky barrels.
0:03:54 > 0:03:56- That was when the fun began.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00- The closest customs - were in Caernarfon.
0:04:00 > 0:04:06- When this Easter gift - landed on the rocks of Ty Mawr...
0:04:06 > 0:04:07- Was it plundered?
0:04:08 > 0:04:09- Yes.
0:04:09 > 0:04:13- They didn't take everything, - it was a 1,000-ton ship...
0:04:14 > 0:04:18- ..and very many cartloads - would have been needed to empty it.
0:04:18 > 0:04:22- I don't think they took - even half the stuff.
0:04:22 > 0:04:25- But they got most - of the important cargo.
0:04:28 > 0:04:33- They say that countless containers - full of whisky were found on land...
0:04:33 > 0:04:35- ..after the ship was plundered.
0:04:39 > 0:04:44- Even today, the place - is known as Porth Whisky.
0:04:52 > 0:04:54- There was whisky in bottles...
0:04:54 > 0:04:59- ..and in barrels as well - which held a gallon or two.
0:04:59 > 0:05:03- The lads carried - the barrels to the hilltop.
0:05:03 > 0:05:08- But their barrels were stolen whilst - they went down to fetch more.
0:05:08 > 0:05:13- As a deterrent, they removed the - barrel lid and put their heads in.
0:05:13 > 0:05:16- Then no-one would steal it.
0:05:17 > 0:05:22- Some were so drunk, they slept on - the hilltop and exhaled blue fumes.
0:05:22 > 0:05:27- I can believe it. It seems - the party lasted over six months.
0:05:32 > 0:05:34- No-one drowned that day.
0:05:34 > 0:05:40- But why did the Stuart founder? What - secrets still remain on the beach?
0:05:40 > 0:05:44- They say there's plenty to find...
0:05:44 > 0:05:46- ..if you know where to look.
0:05:50 > 0:05:50- "Miss Pringle and the Potato"
0:05:50 > 0:05:53- "Miss Pringle and the Potato"- - LAUGHTER
0:05:53 > 0:05:56- The fish people, I call them.
0:05:56 > 0:06:02- Oh, so that explains the fish - picture above your fireplace?
0:06:02 > 0:06:05- Yes, it was in my front - window for a while.
0:06:06 > 0:06:10- But those damn visitors were - knocking on my door at every piss...
0:06:10 > 0:06:12- ..asking if I was selling fish.
0:06:24 > 0:06:29- As a child, I remember hearing - the sea and a few storms.
0:06:29 > 0:06:33- I still remember - the Bardsey lighthouse...
0:06:33 > 0:06:35- ..and the sound of Bardsey's horn.
0:06:36 > 0:06:39- At night, in bed on my own...
0:06:39 > 0:06:43- ..I could see the light - of Bardsey flashing.
0:06:43 > 0:06:47- On a foggy or stormy night, - if it wasn't too noisy...
0:06:47 > 0:06:52- ..I could hear the Bardsey - horn's repeated hooting.
0:06:52 > 0:06:54- I don't think it induced sleep.
0:06:55 > 0:07:00- One industry that has been - part of life in Lleyn is fishing.
0:07:00 > 0:07:03- Some people still - go out in every weather.
0:07:05 > 0:07:10- Many would be amazed to hear that - Harri Parri is a well-known sailor.
0:07:10 > 0:07:13- It's true, he's an old hand.
0:07:14 > 0:07:18- I've arranged to go - out fishing with him.
0:07:18 > 0:07:19- Harri Parri?
0:07:19 > 0:07:20- Harri Parri?- - Yes.
0:07:20 > 0:07:22- I'm Harri Parri too.
0:07:22 > 0:07:24- I'm Harri Parri too.- - Right.
0:07:24 > 0:07:25- We're about the same size.
0:07:25 > 0:07:26- We're about the same size.- - Yes.
0:07:31 > 0:07:36- He left a job as a builder - and turned to fishing.
0:07:36 > 0:07:40- Harri is one of seven fishermen - working out of Porth Dinllaen.
0:07:40 > 0:07:42- He's a better sailor than me!
0:07:42 > 0:07:45- One question, Harri. Can you swim?
0:07:46 > 0:07:48- A little, perhaps.
0:07:48 > 0:07:51- There's no pleasure - in swimming in this weather.
0:07:52 > 0:07:53- Many fishermen...
0:07:53 > 0:07:55- Many fishermen...- - Can't swim!
0:07:55 > 0:07:56- Very sensible.
0:07:56 > 0:07:57- Very sensible.- - Why?
0:07:57 > 0:08:00- The cold will kill you - before you drown.
0:08:01 > 0:08:03- LAUGHTER
0:08:13 > 0:08:14- What's that? Herring?
0:08:14 > 0:08:14- What's that? Herring?- - Yes.
0:08:14 > 0:08:15- Yes.
0:08:15 > 0:08:17- It's not very fresh.
0:08:17 > 0:08:19- It's not very fresh.- - No, it's been in salt for some time.
0:08:20 > 0:08:25- When it was caught, - it was alright to eat.
0:08:25 > 0:08:28- Lobster will go for it?
0:08:28 > 0:08:29- Yes, or crab.
0:08:30 > 0:08:31- Here?
0:08:31 > 0:08:33- Here?- - Put it in that tube.
0:08:33 > 0:08:34- That's it.
0:08:35 > 0:08:37- Is this a northerly wind?
0:08:37 > 0:08:38- Is this a northerly wind?- - Yes.
0:08:39 > 0:08:40- It can be rough at times.
0:08:40 > 0:08:42- It can be rough at times.- - Yes, very rough.
0:08:42 > 0:08:44- This is fine weather for you.
0:08:44 > 0:08:46- Yes, today.
0:08:46 > 0:08:47- And a calm sea.
0:08:47 > 0:08:48- And a calm sea.- - Yes.
0:08:49 > 0:08:54- You have to watch the wind. - It can rise at any time.
0:08:58 > 0:09:00- That's one, at least.
0:09:00 > 0:09:02- One lobster.
0:09:05 > 0:09:07- There are crabs in this one.
0:09:07 > 0:09:08- There are crabs in this one.- - Crabs too?
0:09:09 > 0:09:10- That's too small.
0:09:10 > 0:09:12- That's too small.- - Will you throw it back in?
0:09:12 > 0:09:14- It can go back in.
0:09:14 > 0:09:18- Is one lobster - in each pot a good catch?
0:09:18 > 0:09:21- Goodness, yes. That's a good day.
0:09:21 > 0:09:25- This one is big enough to keep. - I'll put it in the bucket.
0:09:25 > 0:09:28- What happens now? Is it sent away?
0:09:29 > 0:09:33- It'll probably - go to France or Spain.
0:09:33 > 0:09:35- How much would it cost in Paris?
0:09:35 > 0:09:36- How much would it cost in Paris?- - I've no idea.
0:09:37 > 0:09:39- Ten times what I get for it!
0:09:39 > 0:09:41- Ten times what I get for it!- - Probably.
0:09:43 > 0:09:46- Do you enjoy the work?
0:09:46 > 0:09:50- I enjoy it more than construction.
0:09:51 > 0:09:53- No-one complains here!
0:09:53 > 0:09:56- No-one listens, apart from the sea.
0:09:56 > 0:09:58- No, only seagulls.
0:10:05 > 0:10:07- Although Harri makes a living...
0:10:07 > 0:10:11- ..there's no comparison - with former times.
0:10:11 > 0:10:16- At one time, a fish factory on this - beach employed hundreds of people.
0:10:17 > 0:10:21- Of course, the major industry - used to be Nefyn herring.
0:10:22 > 0:10:24- There was an old song.
0:10:24 > 0:10:26- "Nefyn herring, fresh from the sea
0:10:27 > 0:10:30- "Backs like farmers, - bellies like taverners
0:10:30 > 0:10:33- "Nefyn herring, fresh from the sea"
0:10:40 > 0:10:44- In the second part, - the pieces fall into place...
0:10:44 > 0:10:49- ..as more of the Stuart's secrets - come to light at Porth Ty Mawr.
0:10:50 > 0:10:50- .
0:10:53 > 0:10:53- 888
0:10:53 > 0:10:55- 888- - 888
0:11:01 > 0:11:06- We must remember that the only - practical way to travel...
0:11:06 > 0:11:08- ..to and from Lleyn was by sea.
0:11:09 > 0:11:11- It was very busy at one time.
0:11:11 > 0:11:15- Coal was imported, - guano for the soil, animals...
0:11:15 > 0:11:18- ..and lime sometimes.
0:11:26 > 0:11:31- But the trade routes also led - to new hope and a new world.
0:11:31 > 0:11:33- It was a way to leave Lleyn.
0:11:39 > 0:11:44- That's what hundreds - of people did in the early 1800s.
0:11:54 > 0:11:59- Some of my family emigrated - from Porth Colmon in 1825.
0:11:59 > 0:12:01- I know what happened to them...
0:12:02 > 0:12:07- ..because the journey and prayer - meeting on the beach...
0:12:07 > 0:12:09- ..before they left were documented.
0:12:09 > 0:12:14- Watch over our brothers and sisters - during their long voyage...
0:12:15 > 0:12:17- ..to a better land.
0:12:17 > 0:12:21- Everyone was aware - of the dangers facing them.
0:12:21 > 0:12:26- There was no certainty that - they would reach their destination.
0:12:34 > 0:12:40- Thinking of people leaving Lleyn - from somewhere like Porth Colmon...
0:12:41 > 0:12:43- ..brings a lump to my throat.
0:12:43 > 0:12:48- They were leaving forever. - They would never meet again.
0:12:48 > 0:12:53- Brothers, sisters, lovers, two about - to get married, parents, children.
0:12:54 > 0:12:59- Great courage was needed to take - the decision in the first place.
0:12:59 > 0:13:01- Something must have driven them.
0:13:01 > 0:13:06- No-one emigrates like that - and divides a family...
0:13:06 > 0:13:08- ..unless something drives them.
0:13:09 > 0:13:11- Great poverty, or a dream, perhaps.
0:13:11 > 0:13:15- A dream of a better - life and country...
0:13:16 > 0:13:20- ..perhaps setting up - a small Lleyn in America.
0:13:26 > 0:13:30- The fifty people who left - that day were fortunate.
0:13:31 > 0:13:35- The voyage to New York State - could take six months.
0:13:35 > 0:13:40- But this crew were at sea for - only nine weeks and all survived.
0:13:40 > 0:13:45- Traces of the community - they founded can still be seen.
0:13:59 > 0:14:03- The story of leaving - Lleyn is well-known.
0:14:04 > 0:14:08- # There's a key
0:14:08 > 0:14:10- # In the church
0:14:13 > 0:14:17- # A wedding ring
0:14:17 > 0:14:19- # For the parish poor #
0:14:22 > 0:14:26- "There's a key in the church, - a wedding ring for the parish poor
0:14:26 > 0:14:30- "I'll return in the bell-ringer's - chest, we won't need it any more"
0:14:30 > 0:14:32- I see a tear in your eye.
0:14:32 > 0:14:35- I feel quite emotional, - especially here in Porth Colmon.
0:14:36 > 0:14:42- Why did those fifty - people leave Lleyn?
0:14:42 > 0:14:44- Was it because of poverty?
0:14:44 > 0:14:46- The landlords set high rents.
0:14:46 > 0:14:51- People couldn't pay their taxes. - Wages were low.
0:14:51 > 0:14:56- They'd heard about people - who emigrated in the 17th century.
0:14:56 > 0:15:00- I think it was also - the period of land enclosures.
0:15:00 > 0:15:04- People lost grazing land. - There was less of it available.
0:15:04 > 0:15:08- But they must have - paid for their passage.
0:15:08 > 0:15:11- They were poor. So how did they pay?
0:15:11 > 0:15:15- Of those fifty people...
0:15:15 > 0:15:19- ..it seems that only four - could pay for their passage.
0:15:20 > 0:15:22- The rest owed money to the captain.
0:15:22 > 0:15:27- They had arranged with - the captain to work on the ship.
0:15:27 > 0:15:31- After arriving - at their destination...
0:15:31 > 0:15:36- ..they were in debt for two years, - until they repaid the captain.
0:15:36 > 0:15:40- They must have been - desperate to find a better life.
0:15:40 > 0:15:41- It was tough here.
0:15:41 > 0:15:42- It was tough here.- - Yes.
0:15:49 > 0:15:54- Porth Colmon is a special place. - It reminds me of Ireland.
0:15:58 > 0:16:03- I've had a thing about Ireland for - many years. It's similar to Lleyn.
0:16:04 > 0:16:08- They say the short - stories of Connemara...
0:16:08 > 0:16:13- ..and those of rural Lleyn - are quite similar.
0:16:13 > 0:16:17- There's a style of short story - that belongs to peninsulas...
0:16:17 > 0:16:21- ..and to people who live in - the most remote stretches of land.
0:16:21 > 0:16:23- MOO
0:16:23 > 0:16:25- LAUGHTER
0:16:27 > 0:16:27- "The Wedding of Nuala Mulligan"
0:16:27 > 0:16:31- "The Wedding of Nuala Mulligan"- - O'Reilly went - on a pilgrimage to Canaan.
0:16:32 > 0:16:37- When offered a boat trip on the - Sea of Galilee, he asked the price.
0:16:37 > 0:16:38- The Jew answered, "10."
0:16:39 > 0:16:42- O'Reilly said, "No wonder - Peter walked on the water."
0:17:09 > 0:17:12- Yes, I like people. I must do.
0:17:15 > 0:17:19- What I like about some people - is that they're different.
0:17:19 > 0:17:21- People who make their own way.
0:17:22 > 0:17:25- People like that - always appeal to me.
0:17:25 > 0:17:29- People who hoe their own row.
0:17:30 > 0:17:35- Ordinary people, - who might lack resources...
0:17:36 > 0:17:39- ..who struggle to live, - they appeal to me.
0:17:39 > 0:17:44- I like those individuals - with different petrol in the tank...
0:17:44 > 0:17:49- ..who drive in a different direction - through wind, rain and fine weather.
0:17:51 > 0:17:55- My great-grandfather - grew up in this harbour...
0:17:55 > 0:17:59- ..over the water, - in a humble cottage in a row.
0:18:00 > 0:18:02- He must have been quite brave.
0:18:02 > 0:18:07- As a young man, he went to distant - Australia to look for gold.
0:18:07 > 0:18:09- I don't know how much he found.
0:18:09 > 0:18:11- He was brave, just to go so far.
0:18:15 > 0:18:17- When he came back from Australia...
0:18:17 > 0:18:22- ..my great-grandfather joined - the Abersoch lifeboat crew.
0:18:22 > 0:18:24- I'd like to know more about him.
0:18:25 > 0:18:28- Gareth, I'd like - to find my great-grandfather.
0:18:29 > 0:18:31- There might be a record of him here.
0:18:32 > 0:18:35- I think he was on this boat.
0:18:35 > 0:18:37- Yes, that lifeboat was the Oldham.
0:18:37 > 0:18:39- Was he a pilot?
0:18:40 > 0:18:42- We'd call him a coxswain today.
0:18:42 > 0:18:43- What was the boat like?
0:18:43 > 0:18:45- What was the boat like?- - It was a sail and row boat.
0:18:45 > 0:18:50- When there was no wind, they had - to row to where they wanted to go.
0:18:50 > 0:18:54- If the wind was favourable, - they could sail.
0:18:54 > 0:19:00- He was responsible for the boat - and directing the volunteer crew.
0:19:00 > 0:19:01- Is this the boat?
0:19:02 > 0:19:03- Yes.
0:19:03 > 0:19:04- Really?
0:19:05 > 0:19:07- Where would my grandfather be?
0:19:07 > 0:19:08- Here.
0:19:09 > 0:19:11- Does he look like me?
0:19:11 > 0:19:13- Does he look like me?- - Yes, he looks a lot like you.
0:19:13 > 0:19:15- But a braver man, I'm sure.
0:19:15 > 0:19:17- I don't know about that!
0:19:18 > 0:19:22- They're all men, but there's - one woman here. Who is she?
0:19:22 > 0:19:27- This lady was responsible for - raising the crew in an emergency.
0:19:27 > 0:19:31- She'd go to knock on doors. - She was known as the knocker-upper.
0:19:32 > 0:19:33- Really?
0:19:33 > 0:19:34- Really?- - Yes.
0:19:34 > 0:19:37- Very interesting.
0:19:44 > 0:19:48- How often are you called out - to an emergency in a year?
0:19:48 > 0:19:53- This year, since February, - we've been out fourteen times.
0:19:53 > 0:19:56- We've been out four times this week.
0:19:56 > 0:19:57- That often!
0:19:58 > 0:20:02- Yes. We can usually launch the boat - within five minutes after a call.
0:20:03 > 0:20:05- As quickly as that.
0:20:18 > 0:20:20- Back in Porth Whisky...
0:20:20 > 0:20:25- ..some of the secrets of the - Stuart's wreck are still hidden.
0:20:27 > 0:20:32- But Bryn Jones, the landowner, - knows where to look.
0:20:34 > 0:20:35- Ah!
0:20:37 > 0:20:39- There you are.
0:20:41 > 0:20:43- Are these from the Stuart?
0:20:44 > 0:20:46- Yes, for sure.
0:20:46 > 0:20:48- There's an edge here, a pot perhaps.
0:20:49 > 0:20:54- Why were these found here whereas - the ship and sea were over there?
0:20:55 > 0:20:57- I don't know why that was.
0:20:57 > 0:20:59- There's more here again.
0:20:59 > 0:21:01- There's plenty here.
0:21:02 > 0:21:06- Perhaps someone hid them, - after taking them from the ship.
0:21:06 > 0:21:07- Things were hidden, weren't they?
0:21:07 > 0:21:09- Things were hidden, weren't they?- - Yes, so they say.
0:21:09 > 0:21:13- Whisky was hidden in rabbit warrens - and all sorts of places.
0:21:13 > 0:21:18- I have an inkling that the people of - Llangwnadl stole most of the cargo.
0:21:19 > 0:21:21- Everything they could carry.
0:21:26 > 0:21:30- What exactly happened - on that day in 1901...
0:21:30 > 0:21:35- ..when the Stuart was wrecked - on Ty Mawr's rocks, in calm sea?
0:21:35 > 0:21:40- Ioan Roberts grew up locally and - is quite an expert on the subject.
0:21:44 > 0:21:46- What was the true story?
0:21:46 > 0:21:52- It's probable that there was a link - between the cargo and the disaster.
0:21:52 > 0:21:57- Nineteen young men with thousands of - free whisky bottles around them...
0:21:57 > 0:21:59- ..and no supervisor.
0:22:00 > 0:22:02- In short, the crew were drunk.
0:22:02 > 0:22:04- In short, the crew were drunk.- - Yes, captain and crew.
0:22:04 > 0:22:07- The official verdict was that - the ship hadn't been sailed...
0:22:08 > 0:22:10- "..with proper and seamanlike care."
0:22:10 > 0:22:13- Even children were drunk, it seems.
0:22:13 > 0:22:15- There were all sorts of stories.
0:22:15 > 0:22:19- I heard some of the old people - tell this story.
0:22:19 > 0:22:24- A young girl filled her bloomers - with bottles and couldn't walk...
0:22:24 > 0:22:25- ..because of their weight.
0:22:26 > 0:22:28- Lleyn courtesy is well known.
0:22:28 > 0:22:30- You won't believe this...
0:22:30 > 0:22:33- ..but I have a whisky bottle here.
0:22:33 > 0:22:36- This comes from the Stuart, 1901.
0:22:36 > 0:22:38- Well, well, well!
0:22:39 > 0:22:40- As you see...
0:22:40 > 0:22:42- You've drunk some of it.
0:22:42 > 0:22:44- Not quite! It has evaporated.
0:22:45 > 0:22:46- Yes.
0:22:47 > 0:22:48- That's from the Stuart.
0:22:48 > 0:22:49- That's from the Stuart.- - Thank you.
0:22:49 > 0:22:51- I have another here.
0:22:52 > 0:22:56- One each? Well! Shall we - maintain the old tradition?
0:22:56 > 0:22:58- I'll wish you good health.
0:23:03 > 0:23:07- If you want to know where I got - the whisky, I'm not telling you.
0:23:07 > 0:23:11- I'm not telling - whether we drank it either.
0:23:13 > 0:23:18- The sea has been important to the - people of Lleyn over the centuries.
0:23:18 > 0:23:22- And the tide still ebbs and flows.
0:23:22 > 0:23:26- The sea is essential - to the life of Lleyn today...
0:23:26 > 0:23:28- ..as it will be in the future.
0:23:50 > 0:23:52- S4C Subtitles by Gwead
0:23:52 > 0:23:53- .