Chatsworth

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0:00:02 > 0:00:07Just what do you have to do when a Queen decides she's going to pop in to see you?

0:00:07 > 0:00:10And not just any old Queen... Victoria.

0:00:10 > 0:00:13Like a pair of obsessed Victoria groupies,

0:00:13 > 0:00:15we're pursuing her around the country

0:00:15 > 0:00:17to the posh pads she visited.

0:00:17 > 0:00:20We'll be delving into her personal diaries

0:00:20 > 0:00:23to reveal what happened behind closed doors.

0:00:23 > 0:00:27We start off here at the magnificent Chatsworth House,

0:00:27 > 0:00:30deep in the Derbyshire countryside.

0:00:30 > 0:00:34And as someone who's spent a lifetime getting excited by antiques,

0:00:34 > 0:00:38I'll be upstairs exploring just what would have excited Victoria

0:00:38 > 0:00:40on her visit here.

0:00:40 > 0:00:41This was the setting

0:00:41 > 0:00:45for Princess Victoria's first grown-up dinner party.

0:00:45 > 0:00:48And as a chef who loves great food,

0:00:48 > 0:00:50I'll be rediscovering

0:00:50 > 0:00:53an amazing 19th century approach to ice cream-making,

0:00:53 > 0:00:57perfect for serving the young Princess Victoria.

0:00:57 > 0:00:59Look at that!

0:00:59 > 0:01:02And tantalising Tim's taste buds.

0:01:02 > 0:01:06That is just an explosion in your mouth.

0:01:09 > 0:01:13Cor, look at this, Rosemary. Chatsworth House.

0:01:13 > 0:01:16Now, this is what I call a pukka country house.

0:01:16 > 0:01:19And it is, of course, what Princess Victoria would have seen

0:01:19 > 0:01:23in October 1832 on her arrival.

0:01:25 > 0:01:27Princess Victoria, seen here as a child

0:01:27 > 0:01:30next to her ma, the Duchess of Kent,

0:01:30 > 0:01:33was only 13 years old when she came to Chatsworth,

0:01:33 > 0:01:37just a year after finding out that she was to inherit the crown.

0:01:37 > 0:01:41This four-day visit hosted by the 6th Duke of Devonshire

0:01:41 > 0:01:45was part of a PR exercise by Victoria's mum,

0:01:45 > 0:01:48who was keen to introduce her to her future subjects.

0:01:48 > 0:01:53The royal party travelled to Chatsworth from Eaton near Bakewell

0:01:53 > 0:01:54by horse and carriage.

0:01:54 > 0:01:59They must have hit traffic because they turned up a bit later than planned,

0:01:59 > 0:02:02at 6.30 in the evening.

0:02:02 > 0:02:04No satnav, I guess. Huh.

0:02:04 > 0:02:07We've come here right at the beginning of our journey,

0:02:07 > 0:02:11tracing Victoria's progress across Britain.

0:02:11 > 0:02:16But what I'm really interested in is discovering exactly how she got on

0:02:16 > 0:02:20in this early royal visit in the upstairs domain.

0:02:20 > 0:02:23While I'm going to the engine room of the house,

0:02:23 > 0:02:25downstairs to the servants' domain,

0:02:25 > 0:02:30to find out about the cooks, the maids, the footmen and the stewards,

0:02:30 > 0:02:32just to see how they kept the show on the road.

0:02:32 > 0:02:35The 6th Duke of Devonshire was loaded,

0:02:35 > 0:02:37and was known as a bit of a charmer.

0:02:37 > 0:02:39This was his big chance

0:02:39 > 0:02:43to show the Princess just what a hotshot he was.

0:02:43 > 0:02:48Victoria kept a journal, so we have an idea of her daily life.

0:02:48 > 0:02:50She started her writing

0:02:50 > 0:02:54at the time that she started these journeys around the country.

0:02:54 > 0:02:59But at this stage, they're simply the jottings of a 13-year-old.

0:02:59 > 0:03:03When she arrived at Chatsworth, she described it as "beautiful",

0:03:03 > 0:03:07and in this extract from her diary, she wrote,

0:03:07 > 0:03:09"It's built in the shape of a square,

0:03:09 > 0:03:13joined by an arch, under which one must drive."

0:03:13 > 0:03:17And that is the arch that we've just walked through.

0:03:17 > 0:03:21She would have swept up the drive with her mother,

0:03:21 > 0:03:24and admired, probably, the north wing.

0:03:24 > 0:03:28Now, the 6th Duke was remodelling the house,

0:03:28 > 0:03:31and he was very keen that everything should be ready

0:03:31 > 0:03:33for the Princess's visit.

0:03:33 > 0:03:36The Duke managed to get the builders out,

0:03:36 > 0:03:41and the new north wing was knocked up just in time for Princess Victoria's arrival,

0:03:41 > 0:03:44doubling the size of the house.

0:03:49 > 0:03:52But believe it or not, this wasn't the Duke's main house.

0:03:52 > 0:03:54That was down in London,

0:03:54 > 0:03:56and was run by about 30 staff.

0:03:56 > 0:04:01This massive Chatsworth estate was run by half that number.

0:04:01 > 0:04:03- Well, it- was- only his second home.

0:04:03 > 0:04:07To make sure he wasn't caught short during Victoria's visit,

0:04:07 > 0:04:11he brought up additional troops from his London pad to help out.

0:04:11 > 0:04:14I'm heading downstairs to explore their world.

0:04:14 > 0:04:19Here we are in the engine rooms of the modern Chatsworth.

0:04:19 > 0:04:21These corridors are still used by staff today

0:04:21 > 0:04:25to get from one end to the other when this place is full of people.

0:04:25 > 0:04:32This would have been a hive of activity when the Princess and her mother came here for their visit.

0:04:33 > 0:04:36This maze of corridors in the basement

0:04:36 > 0:04:38houses the central heating pipes today.

0:04:38 > 0:04:42But in 1832, it would have been crammed with servants

0:04:42 > 0:04:44getting ready for Victoria's visit.

0:04:44 > 0:04:46There are 61 rooms down here.

0:04:46 > 0:04:50Most are empty now, but back then they would have been larders,

0:04:50 > 0:04:52pantries and pastry rooms.

0:04:54 > 0:04:57This is the old kitchen.

0:04:57 > 0:04:59It's a dusty, woodworking room now,

0:04:59 > 0:05:02but this is how Victoria would have found it

0:05:02 > 0:05:04on a guided tour during her stay,

0:05:04 > 0:05:05and she was quite impressed.

0:05:05 > 0:05:07In her journal, she writes,

0:05:07 > 0:05:10"It was superb for its size and cleanliness."

0:05:10 > 0:05:15And it was the perfect place to cook for the visiting Princess.

0:05:15 > 0:05:19Now, it's my guess that when Victoria arrived here,

0:05:19 > 0:05:23she was absolutely shattered and needed to rest after the journey.

0:05:23 > 0:05:24She was only 13, after all.

0:05:24 > 0:05:27But the Duke was having none of it.

0:05:27 > 0:05:30He wasn't going to let the Princess to her room

0:05:30 > 0:05:33before showing off the Cavendish family album.

0:05:33 > 0:05:37And appropriately, at this half landing,

0:05:37 > 0:05:41surrounded by a clutch of other portraits of the Cavendish family,

0:05:41 > 0:05:44is the 1st Duke.

0:05:44 > 0:05:45HORSE WHINNYING

0:05:45 > 0:05:48Can you see him astride his charger?

0:05:49 > 0:05:54But our hero is the 6th Duke that you see up there, top left,

0:05:54 > 0:05:59in a portrait painted by Sir George Hayter in 1816.

0:06:00 > 0:06:05So that's a cool 16 years before Victoria's visit.

0:06:05 > 0:06:09But I reckon that that's probably more or less what he looked like

0:06:09 > 0:06:12when he ushered her up this very staircase.

0:06:12 > 0:06:16While Victoria was checking out the family album upstairs,

0:06:16 > 0:06:18the servants were preparing dinner.

0:06:18 > 0:06:21Food was very important in all of Victoria's visits,

0:06:21 > 0:06:23and throughout this series,

0:06:23 > 0:06:27I'll be joined by food historian and chef Ivan Day.

0:06:27 > 0:06:32We'll be working in some of the finest Victorian kitchens across the country,

0:06:32 > 0:06:36recreating some amazing dishes that were served to Victoria.

0:06:37 > 0:06:42- The juices of the meat drip down. - How delicious! That is beautiful.

0:06:42 > 0:06:44The Chatsworth kitchens no longer exist,

0:06:44 > 0:06:46so I've been to Ivan's own kitchen

0:06:46 > 0:06:49to create a dish that's perfect for Victoria.

0:06:49 > 0:06:52A few years ago I was working at Chatsworth,

0:06:52 > 0:06:54and I discovered in the cellars

0:06:54 > 0:06:57this incredible hoard of pewter ice cream moulds.

0:06:57 > 0:07:01We have to make ice cream. It was almost certainly served to the young Princess.

0:07:01 > 0:07:07At Chatsworth, the gardener grew fabulous pineapples.

0:07:07 > 0:07:10So we have to make pineapple ice cream.

0:07:10 > 0:07:14- Right.- Here, on the ice and salt to keep it really cold,

0:07:14 > 0:07:19I've actually got a pewter ice cream mould of a pineapple.

0:07:19 > 0:07:23That is beautiful. And look at the detail.

0:07:23 > 0:07:24To make the ice cream,

0:07:24 > 0:07:28a wonderful container called a sorbetier is in a pail of ice.

0:07:28 > 0:07:31Into that, we've put some pineapple flesh

0:07:31 > 0:07:33that's been boiled in water and pureed,

0:07:33 > 0:07:37then sweetened with sugar, and a half pint of cream added.

0:07:37 > 0:07:41Then the sorbetier has been spun to make the mixture freeze.

0:07:41 > 0:07:44This is called an ice spaddle.

0:07:44 > 0:07:46We want to make this really light.

0:07:46 > 0:07:51- This is for a Princess, so it's got to be absolutely like baby's breath. - Yes, yes.

0:07:51 > 0:07:53That means we've got to get air into it.

0:07:53 > 0:07:56And the way you aerate it is by spinning it.

0:07:56 > 0:08:00So what I'm going to do, I'm going to spin it round like this.

0:08:00 > 0:08:03- Oh, right.- Have a go yourself. Just spin it round.

0:08:03 > 0:08:06- Oh.- That's perfect. Keep it going.

0:08:06 > 0:08:08Lift it up and down as you do it,

0:08:08 > 0:08:11and that will bring the air into the mixture.

0:08:11 > 0:08:13That will make it much lighter.

0:08:13 > 0:08:15You can already see, actually.

0:08:15 > 0:08:21Now we have to add the colour to the basic ice cream, to match the real pineapple.

0:08:21 > 0:08:25What you have to do is to make an orange for the pineapple body.

0:08:25 > 0:08:30And for that, we have to use this material here.

0:08:30 > 0:08:32Don't eat it, whatever you do.

0:08:32 > 0:08:36These are little cochineal beetles that grow on prickly pear cactus.

0:08:36 > 0:08:39That makes a very interesting red.

0:08:39 > 0:08:43And if we mix that with a little bit of yellow made with some saffron,

0:08:43 > 0:08:45we'll get a pineapply colour.

0:08:45 > 0:08:49Green for the leaves is extracted from spinach.

0:08:49 > 0:08:50So these are natural dyes.

0:08:50 > 0:08:53- And the colours used in the period. - Right, fantastic.

0:08:53 > 0:08:56Once the colours have been added to the ice cream,

0:08:56 > 0:09:00we have to freeze it before we can fill the mould.

0:09:02 > 0:09:06It's amazing to think that at the time Victoria visited Chatsworth,

0:09:06 > 0:09:10the gardeners were able to produce exotic fruit like pineapples.

0:09:10 > 0:09:13Joseph Paxton was the man who was responsible

0:09:13 > 0:09:17for everything horticultural here back in Victoria's time.

0:09:17 > 0:09:20His crowning achievement was the great conservatory.

0:09:20 > 0:09:23This was no off-the-shelf greenhouse.

0:09:23 > 0:09:27At the time, it was the biggest glass building in the world.

0:09:27 > 0:09:32In her journal, the 13-year-old Victoria described it as,

0:09:32 > 0:09:36"out and out, the finest thing imaginable of its kind."

0:09:36 > 0:09:39Sadly, it's no longer here and there are no pineapples today,

0:09:39 > 0:09:43but there are plenty of other Victorian glasshouses,

0:09:43 > 0:09:45and one other special fruit

0:09:45 > 0:09:49that was here when Victoria visited the Cavendish family in 1832.

0:09:50 > 0:09:53The current head gardener is Steve Porter.

0:09:53 > 0:09:56I do feel as if I'm in a real jungle here.

0:09:56 > 0:09:59Now, I've been told you grow a very special fruit here.

0:09:59 > 0:10:04We do, and we're standing under it. This is Musa Cavendish Dwarf, Cavendish dwarf banana.

0:10:04 > 0:10:06It came here in 1829.

0:10:06 > 0:10:09Joseph Paxton head gardener for the 6th Duke

0:10:09 > 0:10:12obtained the plant and grew it in a glasshouse here

0:10:12 > 0:10:16where it flourished, fruited and produced these wonderful bananas.

0:10:16 > 0:10:22From here, they were taken to Samoa and elsewhere, becoming a commercial crop that's still grown there.

0:10:22 > 0:10:24It wasn't only exotic fruit.

0:10:24 > 0:10:28There's another amazing plant imported from the Amazon,

0:10:28 > 0:10:31that Paxton's green fingers managed to get to flower.

0:10:31 > 0:10:35And it has a close connection with Victoria later in her life.

0:10:35 > 0:10:37This is the Victoria Lily.

0:10:37 > 0:10:40This was grown here, also by Paxton and the 6th Duke.

0:10:40 > 0:10:44But it was later that it flourished and flowered here in 1849,

0:10:44 > 0:10:48and Joseph Paxton actually took a leaf and a flower

0:10:48 > 0:10:51down to Windsor Castle, and presented it to Queen Victoria,

0:10:51 > 0:10:53who then named it the Victoria Lily.

0:10:53 > 0:10:57She must have been absolutely thrilled with that.

0:10:58 > 0:11:01By the time Victoria got to her room,

0:11:01 > 0:11:04she must have been ready to just chill out.

0:11:04 > 0:11:05But no such luck.

0:11:05 > 0:11:09The Duke had laid on a dinner party starting at seven o'clock.

0:11:09 > 0:11:12He even had a dress rehearsal the night before

0:11:12 > 0:11:15because this particular dinner was so important.

0:11:16 > 0:11:19This wonderful dining room was the setting

0:11:19 > 0:11:24for Princess Victoria's first grown-up dinner party.

0:11:24 > 0:11:28But after all the build-up, it didn't go quite to plan.

0:11:28 > 0:11:30She didn't turn up.

0:11:31 > 0:11:33Victoria, in her journal, writes,

0:11:33 > 0:11:37"I dined by myself in my room, with Lehzen."

0:11:37 > 0:11:40That's Baroness Lehzen, her governess.

0:11:41 > 0:11:43And you can hardly blame her.

0:11:43 > 0:11:45She'd only arrived at Chatsworth

0:11:45 > 0:11:48half an hour before dinner was to be served.

0:11:48 > 0:11:52But the Duke must have been cheesed off, after all that effort he put in.

0:11:52 > 0:11:55Downstairs, the staff were busy preparing the evening meal,

0:11:55 > 0:11:57and we're making ice cream,

0:11:57 > 0:12:00just as it would have been served to Victoria.

0:12:00 > 0:12:03The green and orange pineapple-flavoured ice creams

0:12:03 > 0:12:06are frozen and ready to put into the pineapple mould.

0:12:06 > 0:12:08The one we need first is the green.

0:12:08 > 0:12:12If you take the napkins off and just put them aside,

0:12:12 > 0:12:16- I'll show you how to do it, and then you can try it out yourself.- OK.

0:12:16 > 0:12:19So this is actually a nice consistency.

0:12:19 > 0:12:22- You want about a half spoonful each time.- Right.

0:12:22 > 0:12:26And you're going to put it onto the leaf.

0:12:26 > 0:12:27I'll do this one, actually.

0:12:27 > 0:12:30Now, put it on very gently,

0:12:30 > 0:12:31and then with one spoon,

0:12:31 > 0:12:36paddle it in, pushing it in quite hard like that,

0:12:36 > 0:12:38so that you get the impression.

0:12:38 > 0:12:41- Mm-hm.- Now, you've got to work very quickly.

0:12:51 > 0:12:52That's perfect.

0:12:52 > 0:12:54Leaves done. Now for the body.

0:12:57 > 0:12:59- And a bit more.- Yep.

0:13:01 > 0:13:05The secret with this is being very slow and gentle.

0:13:05 > 0:13:07Everything is so intricate!

0:13:07 > 0:13:10- And time-consuming. - And time-consuming.

0:13:10 > 0:13:12And remember, cooks didn't do this at all.

0:13:12 > 0:13:16At Chatsworth, this was done by the Duke's confectioner.

0:13:16 > 0:13:19Now, we have to leave it like that, standing up.

0:13:19 > 0:13:22- Steady it with just one finger. - Oh, sorry.

0:13:22 > 0:13:23The mould is now filled

0:13:23 > 0:13:26with the rest of the orange-coloured ice cream.

0:13:26 > 0:13:29This was not done in the kitchen at all.

0:13:29 > 0:13:32It was done in a completely separate room with a cold area,

0:13:32 > 0:13:34which was the confectionery.

0:13:34 > 0:13:36It was a long way from the kitchen.

0:13:36 > 0:13:38It couldn't have fires in there.

0:13:38 > 0:13:41He must have had quite a bit of help, labour.

0:13:41 > 0:13:44Oh yes, there would have been a kitchen maid called in.

0:13:44 > 0:13:49Possibly a male, as confectionery tended to be done by men at this period.

0:13:49 > 0:13:50- Really?- Yeah.

0:13:50 > 0:13:55Then finally, more green ice cream to form the base.

0:13:56 > 0:13:59Imagine doing this for a princess.

0:13:59 > 0:14:03It must have been, I would say, event of their lives, almost.

0:14:03 > 0:14:07Now, if this pineapple is going to sit on the table and stay firm,

0:14:07 > 0:14:10we've got to freeze it much harder than that.

0:14:10 > 0:14:14And bizarrely, for that, we need some lard.

0:14:14 > 0:14:17We're going to rub it into the seams

0:14:17 > 0:14:20because we're putting this into a mixture of ice and salt,

0:14:20 > 0:14:24and the salt could get into the ice cream and spoil the flavour,

0:14:24 > 0:14:26so we have to seal it.

0:14:26 > 0:14:28How very clever!

0:14:33 > 0:14:35With the seams sealed with lard,

0:14:35 > 0:14:36the mould's wrapped in paper

0:14:36 > 0:14:39so that when it's plunged into the bucket of ice,

0:14:39 > 0:14:41the ice doesn't stick to the pewter.

0:14:41 > 0:14:43The final thing we need to do,

0:14:43 > 0:14:47if you put salt onto ice, it acts as a refrigerant,

0:14:47 > 0:14:51and you get a temperature of about minus 13,

0:14:51 > 0:14:55which will rapidly freeze anything that you put in one of these pots.

0:14:55 > 0:14:59It'll take another three hours for it to freeze solid.

0:15:02 > 0:15:04Upstairs on the first morning of her stay,

0:15:04 > 0:15:10Princess Victoria awoke to enjoy her first glimpse of Paxton's gardens.

0:15:10 > 0:15:13In her journal, she writes, "I breakfasted soon after nine,

0:15:13 > 0:15:17in a room overlooking the cascade."

0:15:17 > 0:15:20She may have been keen to see more of the gardens,

0:15:20 > 0:15:23but the Duke, of course, had the day all set out.

0:15:23 > 0:15:27And it began inside, with a guided tour starting in the library.

0:15:27 > 0:15:30The 6th Duke was a bit of a globetrotter,

0:15:30 > 0:15:34and it was on his travels that he built up his massive collection

0:15:34 > 0:15:36of 50,000 books.

0:15:36 > 0:15:39Victoria, well-read herself, was clearly impressed,

0:15:39 > 0:15:42describing the library as "beautiful".

0:15:42 > 0:15:45The next event on the Duke's itinerary

0:15:45 > 0:15:47was something completely different.

0:15:47 > 0:15:49Anyone for cricket?

0:15:50 > 0:15:53On the afternoon of her first day,

0:15:53 > 0:15:56the Chatsworth doors were thrown open to the public,

0:15:56 > 0:16:00and over 300 people flooded in to watch a special match,

0:16:00 > 0:16:02that was laid on in Victoria's honour.

0:16:02 > 0:16:06There was even a band who played God Save The Queen,

0:16:06 > 0:16:08to rapturous applause.

0:16:08 > 0:16:12As the current Chatsworth cricket team put their best bats forward,

0:16:12 > 0:16:16cricket historian Keith Hayhurst tells me more.

0:16:16 > 0:16:19The teams were made up of gentlemen and workers?

0:16:19 > 0:16:23That's correct. Most of them would have been the workers.

0:16:23 > 0:16:28There would have been two or three gentlemen who wouldn't work so hard.

0:16:28 > 0:16:32They would direct the fielders to catch the ball and find the ball.

0:16:32 > 0:16:36- What, the gentlemen wouldn't really do the fielding?- Not a lot of it.

0:16:36 > 0:16:38They wouldn't do much of the bowling, either.

0:16:38 > 0:16:42You'd get the strong workers for the estate to do the bowling,

0:16:42 > 0:16:47and maybe some of them were employed, just as good cricketers.

0:16:47 > 0:16:50Cricket during Victoria's time was hugely popular,

0:16:50 > 0:16:52both with the gentry and their staff,

0:16:52 > 0:16:55but you might be surprised that, like today,

0:16:55 > 0:16:57the fans liked to have a flutter.

0:16:57 > 0:16:59There was a lot of gambling,

0:16:59 > 0:17:02especially in the cricket of the 1750s to 1850.

0:17:02 > 0:17:04And huge amounts.

0:17:04 > 0:17:08Something like 1,000 guineas a match were put on these games.

0:17:08 > 0:17:12You would get people coming from Manchester, from Chesterfield,

0:17:12 > 0:17:14from all around the district,

0:17:14 > 0:17:15to watch that game.

0:17:15 > 0:17:17And that would bring the money in?

0:17:17 > 0:17:20- That would bring the money in. - Yes, quite.

0:17:23 > 0:17:24Owzat!

0:17:24 > 0:17:27With the royal visitors wandering around,

0:17:27 > 0:17:31the gardeners would have had the grounds looking immaculate.

0:17:31 > 0:17:34And there was one particular treat

0:17:34 > 0:17:38that the 13-year-old Princess Victoria took a real shine to.

0:17:39 > 0:17:43So this is the most unusual feature in Chatsworth garden.

0:17:44 > 0:17:46It was built for the 1st Duke.

0:17:46 > 0:17:48The design was based on a willow tree,

0:17:48 > 0:17:52and it's been restored a couple of times during its life.

0:17:52 > 0:17:55The Princess Victoria called it "the squirting tree".

0:17:55 > 0:17:58She must have had such a lot of fun here.

0:17:58 > 0:18:00I think it's rather quirky.

0:18:01 > 0:18:05When later asked what she liked best about her stay at Chatsworth,

0:18:05 > 0:18:09Victoria answered, "The squirting tree".

0:18:09 > 0:18:11The gardeners must have been thrilled.

0:18:15 > 0:18:19I'm keen to find out more about the men and women who laboured so hard

0:18:19 > 0:18:22in the gardens and downstairs at Chatsworth.

0:18:22 > 0:18:25Luckily, the house has some amazing documents from the period,

0:18:25 > 0:18:28that house collector Matthew Hurst tells me

0:18:28 > 0:18:31offer an intriguing insight into that world.

0:18:31 > 0:18:35Well, Matthew, I believe you've got some information for me.

0:18:35 > 0:18:38We're looking at 1832, when Victoria came here,

0:18:38 > 0:18:41and I'm really interested to find out more about it.

0:18:41 > 0:18:43So can you show me?

0:18:43 > 0:18:45Absolutely. What we've got here

0:18:45 > 0:18:49are the household accounts covering 1829 to 1833,

0:18:49 > 0:18:53- so it fits absolutely the period you're interested in.- Fantastic.

0:18:53 > 0:18:55And if we open it up here,

0:18:55 > 0:18:59- we can see the wages. - Oh, look at this.

0:18:59 > 0:19:01Absolutely, let's have a look.

0:19:01 > 0:19:05We have got a Thomas Howard and Charles Coote.

0:19:05 > 0:19:09They both were on £150.

0:19:09 > 0:19:11That's a lot of money.

0:19:11 > 0:19:15It is. It is. And they would have been the senior male servants.

0:19:15 > 0:19:17So they would have been the butler,

0:19:17 > 0:19:20or sometimes called the steward of the household,

0:19:20 > 0:19:24who was essentially the man in charge of the whole household.

0:19:24 > 0:19:27Interestingly, when you look at the women of the household,

0:19:27 > 0:19:31the highest-paid woman has a salary of £40 a year.

0:19:31 > 0:19:33She would have been the housekeeper,

0:19:33 > 0:19:36so she was the most senior female servant.

0:19:36 > 0:19:40And you can see that their salaries drop as you go down the list.

0:19:40 > 0:19:42Well, I think the least we've got

0:19:42 > 0:19:44is for a Harriett Sheffith?

0:19:44 > 0:19:46- Sherriff, I think.- Sherriff.

0:19:46 > 0:19:49Six pounds, two shillings and sixpence,

0:19:49 > 0:19:52- so that...she must have been the scullery maid.- Absolutely.

0:19:52 > 0:19:54What is so fascinating with this,

0:19:54 > 0:19:56there's a huge hierarchy situation.

0:19:56 > 0:20:00It must have been like an upstairs downstairs in this little domain.

0:20:00 > 0:20:03The scullery maid would probably have been

0:20:03 > 0:20:06a girl of between 14 and 16 years old, when they started,

0:20:06 > 0:20:09so very young as well,

0:20:09 > 0:20:12in contrast to somebody like the housekeeper.

0:20:12 > 0:20:15What's interesting is that the scullery maid would have been

0:20:15 > 0:20:18near the same age as Victoria when she came.

0:20:18 > 0:20:20Pretty much, yes. We don't know her exact age,

0:20:20 > 0:20:23but she would have been around the same age,

0:20:23 > 0:20:26and it's extraordinary to think, the contrast.

0:20:26 > 0:20:30The contrast of lives. Unbelievable!

0:20:30 > 0:20:33Victoria may have escaped dinner once,

0:20:33 > 0:20:36but on the following night, she wasn't so lucky.

0:20:36 > 0:20:40There was another attempt to hold her first grown-up dinner.

0:20:40 > 0:20:42Walking through the house to the dining room,

0:20:42 > 0:20:46she couldn't have failed to notice the semi-naked figures.

0:20:46 > 0:20:49Of the Duke's statues, that is.

0:20:49 > 0:20:52He was a great collector, and luckily for him,

0:20:52 > 0:20:55the young Victoria clearly enjoyed the exposure.

0:20:55 > 0:20:58To the sculptures, that is,

0:20:58 > 0:21:01writing in her diary that, "There are some beautiful statues."

0:21:03 > 0:21:06Oi! Fish face! What are you staring at?

0:21:08 > 0:21:12Eventually, in the dining room, the big moment arrived.

0:21:15 > 0:21:21She sat down to dinner with 35 fellow guests at this stunning dining table.

0:21:24 > 0:21:26However daunting it must have been,

0:21:26 > 0:21:30we know that she admired the gilded surtout de table

0:21:30 > 0:21:34that is still here today, describing it as "magnificent".

0:21:34 > 0:21:38Quite something for a 13-year-old to notice, don't you think?

0:21:38 > 0:21:40Absolutely.

0:21:40 > 0:21:43While the guests tucked into dinner upstairs,

0:21:43 > 0:21:46downstairs, the cooks would have been preparing the dessert.

0:21:46 > 0:21:48In our preparations,

0:21:48 > 0:21:52the pineapple-flavoured and shaped ice cream has been in ice for three hours.

0:21:52 > 0:21:56Now, the moment of truth. Will it come out in one piece?

0:21:57 > 0:22:00Look at that!

0:22:00 > 0:22:01How's that?

0:22:01 > 0:22:05Oh, that is beautiful!

0:22:05 > 0:22:09I'm going to try and just lever that out with the knife, like so.

0:22:09 > 0:22:11And then put it onto there,

0:22:11 > 0:22:12right into the middle,

0:22:12 > 0:22:14and hey presto!

0:22:14 > 0:22:18- Oh, that is...stunning! - How about that?

0:22:18 > 0:22:21I love it!

0:22:21 > 0:22:25Amazing as this pineapple-flavoured, coloured and shaped ice cream is,

0:22:25 > 0:22:27it would not have been enough

0:22:27 > 0:22:30to serve to the 13-year-old Princess Victoria.

0:22:30 > 0:22:33There are more water ices and ice creams,

0:22:33 > 0:22:36starting with a delicate asparagus spear.

0:22:36 > 0:22:38Beautiful.

0:22:39 > 0:22:42I've got to get the knife in between.

0:22:42 > 0:22:43And still they keep coming.

0:22:43 > 0:22:46Sometimes this fails, but...

0:22:46 > 0:22:48Oh!

0:22:48 > 0:22:50- There we are, look at that. - Look at that!

0:22:50 > 0:22:55A fig, a pomegranate, and a melon and some grapes.

0:23:00 > 0:23:02Fingers crossed.

0:23:02 > 0:23:05Wow! It's like magic.

0:23:06 > 0:23:09- This is what we call a pillar mould. - Right.

0:23:09 > 0:23:11- See the fluted columns?- Yes, yes.

0:23:11 > 0:23:16- And this has made a strawberry ice cream.- These moulds are incredible.

0:23:17 > 0:23:21It's quite tricky. It's going now, I think. Yeah, here we go.

0:23:21 > 0:23:23Come on. Just drop out nicely.

0:23:23 > 0:23:25Way! How about that?

0:23:25 > 0:23:28Fantastic!

0:23:28 > 0:23:29Beautiful.

0:23:29 > 0:23:31Oh, look at that.

0:23:31 > 0:23:33Lever it. That's it.

0:23:33 > 0:23:38- Yes.- That's my boy, there we are. That's my boy.- That's my boy.

0:23:38 > 0:23:39This is a basket mould.

0:23:40 > 0:23:43Lovely.

0:23:43 > 0:23:44Gently lever it out.

0:23:44 > 0:23:47- Is it coming?- Whoopsy.

0:23:47 > 0:23:49Right, get it up like that, OK?

0:23:49 > 0:23:51Oh, that's beautiful.

0:23:51 > 0:23:52Ah, but we've got more.

0:23:52 > 0:23:54That's just part of it.

0:23:54 > 0:23:58Some strawberries. Yeah, OK, they should just drop out.

0:24:00 > 0:24:03OK, now, that isn't all because...

0:24:03 > 0:24:04Whoo!

0:24:04 > 0:24:07I've got some strawberry leaves.

0:24:07 > 0:24:09Oh, how wonderful!

0:24:09 > 0:24:13Which have been sitting in cold water, so they should freeze on.

0:24:13 > 0:24:16You may have to hold them on a little while.

0:24:16 > 0:24:18They'll freeze to the strawberry,

0:24:18 > 0:24:20so hold it for about four seconds.

0:24:20 > 0:24:23Look, isn't that absolutely super?

0:24:23 > 0:24:24Look, that is the most...

0:24:26 > 0:24:28That is just beautiful.

0:24:28 > 0:24:30I absolutely love it!

0:24:31 > 0:24:34These Victorian ices of all flavours and shapes

0:24:34 > 0:24:35are so elaborate.

0:24:35 > 0:24:40Now, we just need to serve them to my own gentleman of the house, Tim.

0:24:40 > 0:24:42That's nice, Rosemary, thanks.

0:24:42 > 0:24:45But I can't compete with our host, the Duke.

0:24:45 > 0:24:48By all accounts, he was renowned as a great entertainer,

0:24:48 > 0:24:53and showed exactly why with the after-dinner entertainment he laid on in the ballroom.

0:24:53 > 0:24:56Young girls would need to be at least 15

0:24:56 > 0:25:00before they're allowed to attend a formal ball.

0:25:00 > 0:25:03And as Victoria was far too young,

0:25:03 > 0:25:06the Duke provided alternative entertainment

0:25:06 > 0:25:07in the form of charades,

0:25:07 > 0:25:10which were popular at the time.

0:25:10 > 0:25:13And we think that that is what took place here.

0:25:13 > 0:25:18In her diary, Victoria tells us that the titled guests,

0:25:18 > 0:25:22including Lady Blanche, the Duke's niece,

0:25:22 > 0:25:28performed scenes from Bluebeard and Tom Thumb.

0:25:28 > 0:25:33Parlour games such as charades were extremely popular in Victorian times,

0:25:33 > 0:25:36especially for the wealthy upper classes.

0:25:36 > 0:25:38Even Victoria joined in.

0:25:38 > 0:25:43And during the charades, there was another treat in store for her.

0:25:43 > 0:25:45Head gardener Joseph Paxton

0:25:45 > 0:25:49had arranged a spectacular show of illuminations in the gardens

0:25:49 > 0:25:52using coloured flares.

0:25:52 > 0:25:54Lady Cavendish, the Duke's niece,

0:25:54 > 0:25:56wrote in a letter after the visit,

0:25:56 > 0:26:00"The little Princess seemed to enjoy herself beyond anything,

0:26:00 > 0:26:03and was extremely excited about the cascade."

0:26:03 > 0:26:08"It was like an enchanted castle. The water seemed turned into fire,

0:26:08 > 0:26:11rockets going up in every direction."

0:26:11 > 0:26:13Gosh. "Even the Duke himself

0:26:13 > 0:26:18had to admit he had never seen anything like it before."

0:26:18 > 0:26:21So, with the upstairs entertainment drawing to a close,

0:26:21 > 0:26:25it's time for me to serve up the ice cream and water ices.

0:26:26 > 0:26:29It's a feast fit for a princess,

0:26:29 > 0:26:33and just think, all these exquisite dishes are just the dessert.

0:26:33 > 0:26:37Victoria would have had at least ten courses beforehand.

0:26:38 > 0:26:42Tim may not be a queen, but he can be a bit fussy.

0:26:42 > 0:26:44I wonder what he'll make of these.

0:26:44 > 0:26:48- Rosemary! What- have- you been up to?

0:26:48 > 0:26:52Well, I thought while the table was laid up for a dessert,

0:26:52 > 0:26:54I would give you a dessert.

0:26:54 > 0:26:57Well, this is quite extraordinary, isn't it?

0:26:57 > 0:26:59These shapes, the design.

0:26:59 > 0:27:00How long did it take you?

0:27:00 > 0:27:02- About five hours.- Did it really?

0:27:02 > 0:27:05And I must say, it was fascinating.

0:27:05 > 0:27:08I have to say, this is the first time

0:27:08 > 0:27:13that I've ever addressed an ice in the form of a piece of asparagus.

0:27:13 > 0:27:15And it does look extraordinary.

0:27:15 > 0:27:18It is extraordinary. To actually see the process...

0:27:18 > 0:27:20I'm going to taste the first bit.

0:27:20 > 0:27:25- You taste the first bit and I'm going to take a little bit.- Mm.- Mm.

0:27:25 > 0:27:30That is just an explosion in your mouth. Isn't that just delicious?

0:27:30 > 0:27:35It's extraordinary, and it's so smooth. It's so delicious!

0:27:35 > 0:27:36Unbelievable.

0:27:36 > 0:27:41We're going to have a lot more Victorian food as we follow Victoria's journey.

0:27:41 > 0:27:43I can't wait.

0:27:43 > 0:27:46For the 13-year-old Princess Victoria,

0:27:46 > 0:27:49life would never be the same after Chatsworth.

0:27:49 > 0:27:53She was firmly on the road to becoming Queen.

0:27:54 > 0:27:56Next time on Royal Upstairs Downstairs,

0:27:56 > 0:28:01we're with the teenage Victoria at Shugborough in Staffordshire.

0:28:01 > 0:28:04Where upstairs, I'll be discovering

0:28:04 > 0:28:07how her mother's national PR offensive continued.

0:28:07 > 0:28:09And downstairs, I'll be experiencing

0:28:09 > 0:28:13what life was like for the servants during a royal visit.

0:28:13 > 0:28:16- You'll make an excellent maid. - Oh, it's coming off, too!

0:28:37 > 0:28:40Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:28:40 > 0:28:43E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk