Brighton

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0:00:01 > 0:00:04Just what do you have to do when a queen decides

0:00:04 > 0:00:06she is going to pop in to see you?

0:00:06 > 0:00:10And not just any old queen - Victoria.

0:00:10 > 0:00:12Like a pair of obsessed Victoria groupies

0:00:12 > 0:00:17we are pursuing her around the country to the posh pads she visited.

0:00:17 > 0:00:20We will be delving into her personal diaries

0:00:20 > 0:00:22to reveal what happened behind closed doors.

0:00:22 > 0:00:24Today, Brighton Pavilion.

0:00:24 > 0:00:28It certainly is the most remarkable looking building.

0:00:28 > 0:00:31Like nothing else we have ever seen before on our journey.

0:00:31 > 0:00:35As someone who spent a lifetime getting excited by antiques,

0:00:35 > 0:00:36I will be upstairs

0:00:36 > 0:00:41exploring just what would have excited Victoria on her visit here.

0:00:41 > 0:00:44Wow! Splendid.

0:00:44 > 0:00:47And as a chef, who is passionate about all sorts of food,

0:00:47 > 0:00:51I will be going downstairs to the kitchen

0:00:51 > 0:00:54where I will be rediscovering a super 19th century recipe

0:00:54 > 0:00:56that was served to Victoria.

0:00:56 > 0:01:00- Just have a little play with it. - This is ridiculous!

0:01:00 > 0:01:03And see what Tim makes of my wobbly creations.

0:01:03 > 0:01:05- Look at her face!- Mmm!

0:01:16 > 0:01:18The 19-year-old Queen Victoria

0:01:18 > 0:01:22travelled from Windsor Castle to the Royal Pavilion

0:01:22 > 0:01:24on the 18th December 1838.

0:01:24 > 0:01:26The year of her coronation.

0:01:26 > 0:01:29She was here for the festive holidays

0:01:29 > 0:01:31and stayed until the New Year.

0:01:31 > 0:01:35In her diary, she tells us her 76 mile journey took six hours

0:01:35 > 0:01:38and they changed horses five times.

0:01:38 > 0:01:42The same journey today would take about an hour and a half.

0:01:42 > 0:01:45So here we are, Rosemary, the Royal Pavilion.

0:01:45 > 0:01:50It was actually created by Victoria's uncle, King George IV.

0:01:50 > 0:01:53And it was completed some 18 years

0:01:53 > 0:01:56before her first visit.

0:01:56 > 0:02:00And he had some very queer ideas about architecture.

0:02:02 > 0:02:08Oh yes, George, Victoria's spend thrift uncle,

0:02:08 > 0:02:11had the Royal architect, John Nash,

0:02:11 > 0:02:15create this Indochinese wedding cake of a building

0:02:15 > 0:02:17in the heart of town.

0:02:19 > 0:02:25Well, you know it was Christmas when Victoria visited Brighton in 1838.

0:02:25 > 0:02:28You're right. Of course, she'd been the year before,

0:02:28 > 0:02:30but she had never been here in the holiday period

0:02:30 > 0:02:32and that's really strange, Rosemary.

0:02:32 > 0:02:37Because she's only been to the Royal Family seaside holiday residence

0:02:37 > 0:02:42the once, and I reckon it is to do with her uncle George IV.

0:02:42 > 0:02:46He was a profligate and wasteful man

0:02:46 > 0:02:48and I think was desperately unpopular

0:02:48 > 0:02:51and she didn't want to be tarnished by that brush.

0:02:51 > 0:02:56But now with George long gone, and with the crown firmly on her head,

0:02:56 > 0:02:59perhaps it was time for a bit of a reappraisal.

0:02:59 > 0:03:04The unmarried teen queen decamped to Brighton with a small entourage

0:03:04 > 0:03:07of ladies in waiting and equerries.

0:03:07 > 0:03:12Her arrival created a right royal fuss and flim-flam.

0:03:12 > 0:03:15All the towns people got into their Sunday best

0:03:15 > 0:03:18so they could pay homage to their queen.

0:03:18 > 0:03:22Well, I'll tell you, the servants quarters must have been buzzing.

0:03:22 > 0:03:24They would have been a hive of activity,

0:03:24 > 0:03:26and that's exactly where I'm off to now.

0:03:26 > 0:03:27So I will see you later.

0:03:27 > 0:03:29Very good luck, Rosemary.

0:03:29 > 0:03:31For the 19 year old Victoria,

0:03:31 > 0:03:34taking on the duties of a monarch at such a young age

0:03:34 > 0:03:37must have been overwhelming, to say the least.

0:03:37 > 0:03:41She distanced herself from her overbearing mother

0:03:41 > 0:03:42and had flown the nest,

0:03:42 > 0:03:45but she wasn't sampling the delights of student life.

0:03:45 > 0:03:49She was the Queen! And just like Princess Diana in the 1980s

0:03:49 > 0:03:52she certainly found herself thrust into the limelight

0:03:52 > 0:03:54with millions of adoring fans.

0:03:57 > 0:03:58OK, here we go.

0:03:58 > 0:04:01Is that you from the TV? It is, isn't it?

0:04:01 > 0:04:03I watch the programme every day.

0:04:03 > 0:04:06Every day it's on. I watch it all the time.

0:04:06 > 0:04:08- You keep at it, darling. - Yes, I will.

0:04:08 > 0:04:10Can I have your autograph, please?

0:04:10 > 0:04:12My husband is a great fan of yours. Thank you.

0:04:12 > 0:04:15- What's your husband called? - Malcolm.- Malcolm.

0:04:15 > 0:04:18- What's your name, darling? - Georgia.- Georgia.

0:04:18 > 0:04:22Some take to the life of superstardom with ease, ha-ha(!)

0:04:22 > 0:04:25But for Victoria it was less welcome

0:04:25 > 0:04:30and despite being surrounded by people she was in fact quite alone.

0:04:30 > 0:04:34Her diary entries paint a picture of a very young woman

0:04:34 > 0:04:36with no-one to confide in.

0:04:36 > 0:04:40We believe her mother might have come with her to the pavilion,

0:04:40 > 0:04:44but she was the last person Victoria wanted to talk to.

0:04:44 > 0:04:49The new queen had formed one close attachment, to the Prime Minister,

0:04:49 > 0:04:52Lord Melbourne, who was three times her age.

0:04:52 > 0:04:57She describes having to leave her dear friend behind at Windsor

0:04:57 > 0:05:00as "very sad", and implored him to visit,

0:05:00 > 0:05:03but at least the whacky pavilion building

0:05:03 > 0:05:07with its minarets and domes lifted Victoria's mood.

0:05:07 > 0:05:08Victoria wrote in her journal,

0:05:08 > 0:05:11"The Pavilion, lighted up, looked cheerful."

0:05:11 > 0:05:16Which is always nice, particularly at Christmas time.

0:05:16 > 0:05:21On arrival Victoria would have been ushered into this space,

0:05:21 > 0:05:23the long gallery.

0:05:23 > 0:05:26When she saw it first, she wrote,

0:05:26 > 0:05:31"This is a very strange, odd, Chinese looking place."

0:05:31 > 0:05:34And she is absolutely right,

0:05:34 > 0:05:40decorated in the chinoiserie style from sources that were various.

0:05:40 > 0:05:45She would be certain to have admired these exotic wall coverings,

0:05:45 > 0:05:50not wallpaper, but hand-painted wall surfaces

0:05:50 > 0:05:54from the London firm of decorators Crace and Co,

0:05:54 > 0:05:58most particularly, Frederick Crace.

0:05:58 > 0:06:02He actually had been no further east than Dover.

0:06:02 > 0:06:05All the cunning fellow did was to copy designs

0:06:05 > 0:06:08from those classic blue and white vases.

0:06:08 > 0:06:10I wonder if Her Majesty noticed?

0:06:10 > 0:06:14For certain she would have been amused by these fellows.

0:06:14 > 0:06:17It's an attendant with a counterweight

0:06:17 > 0:06:22within this articulated neck that enables his head to nod,

0:06:22 > 0:06:25but it doesn't come from the orient,

0:06:25 > 0:06:31it comes from that other very well known China region, Stoke on Trent.

0:06:36 > 0:06:38Now, just because this is a holiday home,

0:06:38 > 0:06:41doesn't mean the servants had an easy time.

0:06:41 > 0:06:46They mothballed the Pavilion between each royal visit

0:06:46 > 0:06:49so preparing for Victoria was no small task.

0:06:49 > 0:06:56The Pavilion staff increased from around 25 to over 200

0:06:56 > 0:06:57during the run up to her visit.

0:06:57 > 0:07:02I can imagine maids and footmen hurrying along these long corridors

0:07:02 > 0:07:05which kept the servants out of sight.

0:07:05 > 0:07:08Heaven help a housemaid who went through the wrong door

0:07:08 > 0:07:10or burst into the wrong room.

0:07:10 > 0:07:12Our food historian, Ivan Day,

0:07:12 > 0:07:15has already found his way to these extraordinary kitchens

0:07:15 > 0:07:17and he couldn't be happier.

0:07:17 > 0:07:22To my mind this is the most wonderful kitchen in Europe,

0:07:22 > 0:07:23full stop.

0:07:23 > 0:07:25It was designed by Nash

0:07:25 > 0:07:29and he was an architect who really knew what a kitchen had to do.

0:07:29 > 0:07:34First of all, you need lots of light so it has got this wonderful lantern

0:07:34 > 0:07:36which just floods the whole room

0:07:36 > 0:07:39with superb clear light so you can see what you're doing.

0:07:39 > 0:07:43Every part of the kitchen is dedicated to a particular task.

0:07:43 > 0:07:47So over there, you see the roasting range, behind us,

0:07:47 > 0:07:49we've got the stewing stoves

0:07:49 > 0:07:51where the finer cookery was done, the sauces,

0:07:51 > 0:07:55the stockpots and the consume pots for making soups

0:07:55 > 0:08:00and on the dressers you've got this extraordinary battery de cuisine

0:08:00 > 0:08:05of the most wonderful stew pans and sauce pans and fish kettles.

0:08:05 > 0:08:08A lot of this equipment would probably survive

0:08:08 > 0:08:10a direct nuclear attack

0:08:10 > 0:08:12it is so typical 19th century

0:08:12 > 0:08:16and then over there is my favourite part of the kitchen,

0:08:16 > 0:08:19you've got these wonderful culinary moulds,

0:08:19 > 0:08:21some for making for cakes,

0:08:21 > 0:08:28some for making that iconic food of the 19th century, which is jelly.

0:08:28 > 0:08:33And that's what we're going to make today, a wonderful champagne jelly

0:08:33 > 0:08:37that would have graced every posh table in Queen Victoria's time

0:08:37 > 0:08:41and we'll also be taking a look at the commemorative side

0:08:41 > 0:08:43of these comical puddings.

0:08:45 > 0:08:47During the Queen's three week visit,

0:08:47 > 0:08:52extra dosh was forked out to boost staff numbers downstairs,

0:08:52 > 0:08:56but before she arrived even more cash had been splashed out

0:08:56 > 0:08:59preparing the Pavilion for Victoria.

0:08:59 > 0:09:03With all this bling it is more like a rapper's delight

0:09:03 > 0:09:04than a Royal palace.

0:09:04 > 0:09:07£4,000 was blown on tarting the place up,

0:09:07 > 0:09:09that's over £150,000 in today's money.

0:09:09 > 0:09:12Quite a sum for just a bit of a spruce up

0:09:12 > 0:09:16for what was, after all, a holiday home.

0:09:16 > 0:09:20Even one as architecturally sophisticated as this.

0:09:25 > 0:09:29The extreme length of the long gallery, some 160 feet,

0:09:29 > 0:09:33coupled with the relatively low ceilings,

0:09:33 > 0:09:35serve as an architectural conceit,

0:09:35 > 0:09:39you don't realise it, but you're being drawn into this funnel,

0:09:39 > 0:09:43a modest doorway at the end of the gallery

0:09:43 > 0:09:47that prepares your eye for the next treat.

0:09:49 > 0:09:51Wow!

0:09:59 > 0:10:01Bizarre or what?

0:10:01 > 0:10:06The dominant feature for me has to be the dome.

0:10:06 > 0:10:09That's been painted with plantain, or banana leaves,

0:10:09 > 0:10:13as if nodding towards the empire in the east.

0:10:13 > 0:10:17Underneath the leaves we've got a ventilation system

0:10:17 > 0:10:22acting like a chimney that takes away the heat and the smells.

0:10:22 > 0:10:25Victoria didn't think much of it

0:10:25 > 0:10:30because she complained the Pavilion was always too hot or too cold.

0:10:30 > 0:10:34I wonder if this crazy dragon's den of a dining room

0:10:34 > 0:10:36affected her appetite at all

0:10:36 > 0:10:37and not in a good way.

0:10:37 > 0:10:39You have to hope I'm wrong.

0:10:39 > 0:10:43After all, she must have eaten around 20 huge meals here

0:10:43 > 0:10:45in the run up to Christmas.

0:10:45 > 0:10:47And as for Christmas dinner itself,

0:10:47 > 0:10:50the young Queen Victoria would not have been sitting down

0:10:50 > 0:10:52to turkey and Brussels sprouts.

0:10:52 > 0:10:55Oh, no, she would have been served up to seven courses

0:10:55 > 0:10:59of over 30 dishes, and never mind the wines.

0:10:59 > 0:11:02And the cuisine wasn't English,

0:11:02 > 0:11:06but French as was the fashion at the grandest of tables.

0:11:06 > 0:11:08As Victoria sat here,

0:11:08 > 0:11:15wading her way through many exotic and over decorated courses

0:11:15 > 0:11:17that went to make up her Christmas meals,

0:11:17 > 0:11:19you can almost imagine her

0:11:19 > 0:11:24looking down her refined little nose rather contemptuously

0:11:24 > 0:11:26at this opulent scene.

0:11:30 > 0:11:33It is quite a contrast to the simple functional kitchen

0:11:33 > 0:11:36where all the elaborate food would have been prepared

0:11:36 > 0:11:40including the dish we're making today, a champagne jelly.

0:11:40 > 0:11:44Jellies had taken a feverish hold in the 19th century

0:11:44 > 0:11:48after being used as the crowning glory for the Victorian table.

0:11:48 > 0:11:52The reason for this growth in popularity was partially due

0:11:52 > 0:11:54to the advances in moulds

0:11:54 > 0:11:58and our jelly uses a particularly clever mould.

0:11:58 > 0:12:01This is known as a Belgrave Mould.

0:12:01 > 0:12:04I have got two here, an oval one and a round one,

0:12:04 > 0:12:05which is on the ice.

0:12:05 > 0:12:11Now what makes them special is that these they have

0:12:11 > 0:12:15these extraordinary liners with these spiral tubes.

0:12:15 > 0:12:18These moulds first came to use in the 19th century

0:12:18 > 0:12:21and the idea is this, we put them into the mould.

0:12:21 > 0:12:24Yes.

0:12:24 > 0:12:29And we fill it up with jelly and we let the jelly set and then

0:12:29 > 0:12:34what we then do is to fill these up with warm water and screw them out.

0:12:34 > 0:12:37But this is what I mean by engineering because if you look,

0:12:37 > 0:12:39there is a tiny hole at the bottom

0:12:39 > 0:12:42and from that hole runs a tube, can you see the tube?

0:12:42 > 0:12:44Yes, yes.

0:12:44 > 0:12:46Now when we screw it out,

0:12:46 > 0:12:49if it didn't have that air release, it wouldn't come out.

0:12:49 > 0:12:52- You couldn't get it out. - So as you screw it out,

0:12:52 > 0:12:55the air goes down the hole into the cavity

0:12:55 > 0:13:00- so this is really going to be a heavily engineered jelly.- Yes.

0:13:00 > 0:13:05It originated in Victoria's uncle George's kitchen

0:13:05 > 0:13:07when he was Prince Regent.

0:13:07 > 0:13:09So is this something Victoria would have eaten herself?

0:13:09 > 0:13:15This was one of the most popular jellies of the 19th century

0:13:15 > 0:13:17and she would have, I am sure, had it a number of times.

0:13:17 > 0:13:20It was so famous and so popular.

0:13:20 > 0:13:25It contains pink champagne, a drop of orange flower water,

0:13:25 > 0:13:28some sugar syrup and a gelling agent.

0:13:28 > 0:13:30I have got a pint and a half, it is a quart mould.

0:13:30 > 0:13:33If I put a pint and a half of the mixture in...

0:13:33 > 0:13:37- So it will obviously come up. Can I put it in?- Yes.

0:13:37 > 0:13:39This is very exciting.

0:13:39 > 0:13:41- We can pop it down very carefully. - Perfect.

0:13:41 > 0:13:42It's got a hinge either side.

0:13:42 > 0:13:45- That locks it exactly into position.- Yes.

0:13:45 > 0:13:48So the tubes are directly above the little features at the bottom.

0:13:48 > 0:13:50Now that's it.

0:13:50 > 0:13:54All we do now is we just leave it for an hour or so on the ice

0:13:54 > 0:13:56and then we go on to the next stage.

0:13:56 > 0:14:00I will be finishing the jelly later, I can't wait.

0:14:01 > 0:14:03While below stairs is all of a quiver,

0:14:03 > 0:14:07upstairs is all of a sparkle.

0:14:07 > 0:14:12One of the most delightful and ingenious aspects

0:14:12 > 0:14:13of the pavilion

0:14:13 > 0:14:18is the clever interplay of light on interior decoration.

0:14:18 > 0:14:20Queen Victoria was particularly taken by this

0:14:20 > 0:14:23and she writes in her journal, "The whole pavilion

0:14:23 > 0:14:29"has been done up and regilt and looks very fresh and pretty."

0:14:29 > 0:14:31An affect that I can assure you

0:14:31 > 0:14:35would have taken many thousands of man hours.

0:14:35 > 0:14:37This wildly, over the top gilding

0:14:37 > 0:14:42which is such a huge feature of the pavilion, seems rather odd

0:14:42 > 0:14:44for a holiday home by the sea,

0:14:44 > 0:14:48but then there is no accounting for royal taste

0:14:48 > 0:14:50or lack of it.

0:14:52 > 0:14:57The gilding was particularly effective when hit

0:14:57 > 0:15:00by hard shafts of light,

0:15:00 > 0:15:04striking these cunning horizontal slitty windows

0:15:04 > 0:15:06which are set about all the domes

0:15:06 > 0:15:11above the principle reception rooms. I.e. the banqueting hall,

0:15:11 > 0:15:14the music room and the saloon.

0:15:14 > 0:15:18The magical lighting effects inside continued even after dark.

0:15:18 > 0:15:24Because servants would come out, rain or shine, winter or summer

0:15:24 > 0:15:28after dark, and light great gas lamps outside these windows

0:15:28 > 0:15:33creating effectively more daylight to come through the glass

0:15:33 > 0:15:38and transform and enhance the experience within.

0:16:04 > 0:16:08Now, I'm escaping the gilt and the gaudiness for an exciting exploration

0:16:08 > 0:16:10of the pavilion's downstairs world.

0:16:10 > 0:16:12Or should that be upstairs?

0:16:12 > 0:16:18Curator, David Beavis is taking me to see one of the most extraordinary

0:16:18 > 0:16:21rooms in the house, usually off limits to the public.

0:16:21 > 0:16:24This had better be worth it!

0:16:24 > 0:16:2856, 57, 58.

0:16:28 > 0:16:30David that's a long way up.

0:16:30 > 0:16:33- It is, isn't it? Yes.- Where are we now? Where have you brought me up to?

0:16:33 > 0:16:38It is an area of the pavilion that the public don't come to called the bottle room

0:16:38 > 0:16:41and it is a wonderful evocative area and in the past, as you can see,

0:16:41 > 0:16:45people have come up here rather unauthorised, and here is somebody

0:16:45 > 0:16:48called Priscilla Davidson who was here in August 1879.

0:16:48 > 0:16:501879. That's fantastic.

0:16:56 > 0:16:58So tell me, what was this used for?

0:16:58 > 0:17:00It was originally intended for a billiard room,

0:17:00 > 0:17:04but hauling a billiard table up here was rather ridiculous

0:17:04 > 0:17:07- and very soon it became servant's quarters.- Really?

0:17:07 > 0:17:10Yes. These were valet's quarters.

0:17:10 > 0:17:13It wasn't just the servants who were able to enjoy this room with a view,

0:17:13 > 0:17:17Victoria herself came up here on the night she arrived.

0:17:17 > 0:17:21Because Victoria does say that she watched fireworks.

0:17:21 > 0:17:24It is a lovely thought, isn't it? Victorian standing

0:17:24 > 0:17:26about where you are

0:17:26 > 0:17:30looking out of the window and seeing fireworks in her honour.

0:17:30 > 0:17:32She must have loved it actually.

0:17:32 > 0:17:36She must have had quite a sort of jolly time.

0:17:36 > 0:17:38I am sure she did, yes.

0:17:38 > 0:17:41It is so unique and it is so odd.

0:17:41 > 0:17:43It is. It has not been touched.

0:17:43 > 0:17:44It has got the wallpaper

0:17:44 > 0:17:47and graining on the doors, that's all original.

0:17:47 > 0:17:51It is an untouched part of the pavilion and it is very evocative.

0:17:56 > 0:17:59But when Victoria wasn't in the mood for jolly times

0:17:59 > 0:18:01or the garish interiors had got the better of her,

0:18:01 > 0:18:05she would retire here to her own private apartments.

0:18:05 > 0:18:10Interestingly, the decor is much plainer than the rest of the house,

0:18:10 > 0:18:12we think at her request.

0:18:12 > 0:18:16Perhaps it is an early sign of the serious side of the young queen.

0:18:16 > 0:18:18This is borne out by her diary

0:18:18 > 0:18:22in which she tells us she was reading Oliver Twist

0:18:22 > 0:18:24and is clearly intrigued

0:18:24 > 0:18:29by the descriptions of squalid vice, starvation and work houses.

0:18:29 > 0:18:31Victoria asked her trusted Prime Minister,

0:18:31 > 0:18:34Lord Melbourne, who arrived on Boxing Day,

0:18:34 > 0:18:36if such things were true.

0:18:36 > 0:18:38He replied that that in many schools

0:18:38 > 0:18:44they give children the worst things to eat and bad beer to save expense.

0:18:44 > 0:18:46There you are, no Jamie Oliver.

0:18:46 > 0:18:48Of course, for the 19 year old Queen,

0:18:48 > 0:18:53the contrast with her own life was huge. She only had to sneeze

0:18:53 > 0:18:55and a maid would come running.

0:18:55 > 0:19:00Indeed, here next to Her Majesty's bedroom is the wardrobe maid's room,

0:19:00 > 0:19:04she was one of the upper servants who had direct contact with the queen.

0:19:05 > 0:19:09Four other dressers lived in tiny rooms above the main bedroom

0:19:09 > 0:19:16and they were also expected to be at her beck and call 24/7.

0:19:16 > 0:19:21Talking of staff, how is my man servant doing downstairs?

0:19:21 > 0:19:24What I'm going to do, I'm going to start with the big one in the middle

0:19:24 > 0:19:26and fill it with warm water

0:19:26 > 0:19:30and that will melt the jelly around it and enable me to release it

0:19:30 > 0:19:33so I can immediately start screwing it out of the jelly.

0:19:33 > 0:19:39Remember it is a spiral and it just comes out of the jelly like a screw.

0:19:39 > 0:19:42- How clever is that?- Like that.

0:19:42 > 0:19:45Leaving the cavity. We've now got to very carefully fill

0:19:45 > 0:19:47the smaller ones with warm water

0:19:47 > 0:19:49and very carefully twist those out

0:19:49 > 0:19:52and we can tear the wall.

0:19:53 > 0:19:57There is a very small gap between the big one and the small one.

0:19:57 > 0:20:00What I'm worried about is this collapsing.

0:20:00 > 0:20:03It makes my hair stand on end actually,

0:20:03 > 0:20:06when I do this in this kitchen, cos I get the feeling

0:20:06 > 0:20:09this was such a popular mould in its day

0:20:09 > 0:20:13I am sure this has been done in this space before.

0:20:13 > 0:20:15It sends a shiver up my spine to do it. It really does.

0:20:15 > 0:20:17It is an extraordinary thing

0:20:17 > 0:20:19of bringing history to life through food.

0:20:19 > 0:20:21This is one of those things that we forget,

0:20:21 > 0:20:23these people had incredible skill.

0:20:23 > 0:20:27And they were working in kitchens without electricity,

0:20:27 > 0:20:29without refrigeration

0:20:29 > 0:20:33and they could do things that modern restaurant chefs cannot do

0:20:33 > 0:20:36with very limited technology.

0:20:36 > 0:20:39So finally, there we are, they are all done, all we need to do now,

0:20:39 > 0:20:44is for you to fill them with the orange flower flavoured...

0:20:44 > 0:20:46- Shall I start in the middle first? - Start with the big one.

0:20:46 > 0:20:49That makes sense. I have got to be very steady.

0:20:49 > 0:20:52The blancmange is poured into the cavities in the jelly

0:20:52 > 0:20:54and making a fab two toned effect

0:20:54 > 0:20:58when the diner cuts through, if I can keep a steady hand.

0:20:58 > 0:21:02Despite the kitchen being cutting edge for its time,

0:21:02 > 0:21:06there were no fancy fridges for the chefs at pavilion,

0:21:06 > 0:21:10but there were other ways of keeping things cool.

0:21:10 > 0:21:12Oh, that's all done. I put it on the ice.

0:21:12 > 0:21:15You go and put it in the larder and that's finished.

0:21:16 > 0:21:19While she was staying at the Pavilion for Christmas,

0:21:19 > 0:21:22the young queen occupied herself in a variety of ways.

0:21:22 > 0:21:27Once she had been dressed and her hair had been done,

0:21:27 > 0:21:28she would play music,

0:21:28 > 0:21:32try her hand at lace making, receive dispatches and letters.

0:21:32 > 0:21:34As she tells us in her journal,

0:21:34 > 0:21:37"After dawdling about for quite some time

0:21:37 > 0:21:40"I received a long letter from the Queen Dowager from Malta

0:21:40 > 0:21:42"and one from Lady Normanby."

0:21:42 > 0:21:44She also loved to read,

0:21:44 > 0:21:50but more than any of the above it seems she loved to ride.

0:21:50 > 0:21:54Throughout her visit, Victoria tells us

0:21:54 > 0:21:58that she adored riding out along the South Coast.

0:21:58 > 0:22:04The stables are situated across the garden at the back of the pavilion

0:22:04 > 0:22:07underneath that magnificent dome.

0:22:07 > 0:22:11She writes in her diary of days spent riding along the cliffs.

0:22:11 > 0:22:14"I got on Midnight, who I like very much.

0:22:14 > 0:22:19"His trot is charming and I like his gallop very much too."

0:22:19 > 0:22:22Brighton must have been enthralled by such a spectacle.

0:22:22 > 0:22:25It was quite something seeing the tiny queen

0:22:25 > 0:22:28hoofing it towards you on a majestic steed.

0:22:28 > 0:22:29Giddy up!

0:22:33 > 0:22:37While we're waiting for our special champagne jelly to set,

0:22:37 > 0:22:40Ivan is giving me the low down on other jellies,

0:22:40 > 0:22:43starting with those made popular by Victoria's uncle George

0:22:43 > 0:22:45and still around during her reign.

0:22:45 > 0:22:51First, how to get the blighters out of their moulds.

0:22:51 > 0:22:54Now to get this one out, you have to give it a really good shake.

0:22:54 > 0:22:58- Yes.- And get the air right up and get it right in the middle.

0:22:58 > 0:23:01- It's like a cone to me. - Let's see if it comes out.

0:23:02 > 0:23:04It has come out perfectly.

0:23:06 > 0:23:12But this particular jelly will misbehave in a way.

0:23:12 > 0:23:14Just put it down!

0:23:14 > 0:23:16It's quite remarkable, isn't it?

0:23:16 > 0:23:20- That is ridiculous! - Just have a little play with it.

0:23:20 > 0:23:21Go on.

0:23:21 > 0:23:23Get it moving. Not too fierce.

0:23:23 > 0:23:26You will see it auto-destruct if you move it around too much.

0:23:26 > 0:23:31Now for me this is everything about the Prince Regent,

0:23:31 > 0:23:33this is his style of jelly.

0:23:33 > 0:23:36He was a naughty boy.

0:23:36 > 0:23:39Well, they just must have.

0:23:39 > 0:23:42Do you think Victoria would have loved that too? Would she have seen the humour?

0:23:42 > 0:23:45I think this is something she would have disapproved of.

0:23:45 > 0:23:47These are really,

0:23:47 > 0:23:50the age of Victoria's childhood and she disapproved of her uncle George.

0:23:50 > 0:23:54- He was a naughty boy, wasn't he? - They all were, yes.

0:23:54 > 0:23:59Imagine the tension in the kitchen if HRH was upstairs,

0:23:59 > 0:24:03especially when things don't always go according to plan.

0:24:03 > 0:24:05It is going. Now these sometimes take a little bit of time.

0:24:05 > 0:24:08There we go.

0:24:11 > 0:24:14- Oh, no.- Oh, no. - No, that one is a miserable failure.

0:24:14 > 0:24:18And when serving Royalty, there is no room for error.

0:24:18 > 0:24:24OK. So basically I have got to find where it goes and put it on.

0:24:24 > 0:24:28They weren't just there for their comic value.

0:24:28 > 0:24:31During Queen Victoria's reign, jellies were often commemorative.

0:24:31 > 0:24:36This one made later in Victoria's reign features the Brunswick Star

0:24:36 > 0:24:39that her son, Edward, Prince of Wales, wore.

0:24:41 > 0:24:43And this Danish flag in a jelly

0:24:43 > 0:24:46represented his Danish wife Princess Alexandra.

0:24:46 > 0:24:49It is a his and hers pudding.

0:24:49 > 0:24:53Today we would use a few cubes of jelly set in a mixing bowl,

0:24:53 > 0:24:56but these creations were far more elaborate.

0:24:56 > 0:25:01Even this milk jelly was carefully flavoured with almond and rose water

0:25:01 > 0:25:04and coloured with strawberry and blackcurrant juice.

0:25:04 > 0:25:08They got totally carried away with these wobbly wonders.

0:25:08 > 0:25:10I can see the attraction.

0:25:15 > 0:25:18All we have to do now is get our champagne jelly out in one piece.

0:25:18 > 0:25:23No pressure then. My heart is my mouth.

0:25:23 > 0:25:28So, OK. Now sometimes you get a wonderful gurgling noise.

0:25:28 > 0:25:32Let's be quiet and listen to the sound of Victorian jelly

0:25:32 > 0:25:34coming out of a mould.

0:25:36 > 0:25:39Oh, it is just a treat to behold, it really is.

0:25:39 > 0:25:44- This, I think, is a little gem. - It's wonderful, isn't it?

0:25:44 > 0:25:50It's a real gem. I can't wait to see what it tastes like.

0:25:50 > 0:25:52Remind you of anything?

0:25:52 > 0:25:56Maybe the jellies had brought a smile to Victoria's face

0:25:56 > 0:25:59as it seems from her diary she was rather enjoying her visit.

0:25:59 > 0:26:01She describes staying up very late,

0:26:01 > 0:26:05having amusing evenings until Christmas Day arrived

0:26:05 > 0:26:10when she moans in her diary she went to chapel and was unimpressed

0:26:10 > 0:26:14with the sermon, delivered by the Bishop of Chichester.

0:26:14 > 0:26:16She states it was rather slow,

0:26:16 > 0:26:20but it seems things improved as the day went on.

0:26:20 > 0:26:23She says dinner was a lively affair with 20 assembled nobles

0:26:23 > 0:26:27and dignitaries who were agreeable, amusing and animated.

0:26:27 > 0:26:32All in all, from her diary entries, Victoria enjoyed her visit

0:26:32 > 0:26:35to Brighton and it seems she's not the only one.

0:26:37 > 0:26:39Well Rosemary, it looks to me

0:26:39 > 0:26:41as if you have had a quiveringly good day.

0:26:41 > 0:26:43Tim, it is an engineering feat.

0:26:43 > 0:26:46It is so exciting, I cannot tell you.

0:26:46 > 0:26:51And it is made with pink champagne and orange flower.

0:26:51 > 0:26:52Yum yum. Can I have it now?

0:26:52 > 0:26:55Yes. But you are going to have to help yourself.

0:26:55 > 0:26:56So what I think we should do is,

0:26:56 > 0:27:00we should go around the outside and just take a little bit.

0:27:00 > 0:27:01This is difficult to control, Rosemary.

0:27:01 > 0:27:06- Oh my gosh, I have had a complete collapse here.- It won't stand up.

0:27:06 > 0:27:10I am going to get my napkin out before I start dribbling.

0:27:10 > 0:27:11Look at her face!

0:27:11 > 0:27:14It's just, "Oh!" Look at that.

0:27:14 > 0:27:16That is delicious.

0:27:16 > 0:27:21To me, this is just an extravaganza on the table.

0:27:21 > 0:27:22It is wonderful.

0:27:22 > 0:27:27And this goes with the Pavilion because this is so over the top.

0:27:27 > 0:27:30Everything is over the top. It is extraordinary.

0:27:30 > 0:27:32Well, that's quite something,

0:27:32 > 0:27:34I have to say. More jelly, vicar?

0:27:34 > 0:27:37Absolutely!

0:27:37 > 0:27:41Despite her overblown surroundings and light hearted puddings,

0:27:41 > 0:27:43Victoria's New Year resolution

0:27:43 > 0:27:49written in her diary reveals a young queen who was far from frivolous.

0:27:49 > 0:27:51A teenager who clearly took the job seriously.

0:27:51 > 0:27:57She says, "Almighty god, preserve me safely through this year

0:27:57 > 0:28:01"and make me daily more fit for my station."

0:28:01 > 0:28:06Victoria's and our time at Brighton maybe at an end, but join us

0:28:06 > 0:28:08next time when our journey continues

0:28:08 > 0:28:11to Scone on the East Coast of Scotland.

0:28:11 > 0:28:14Which has a very different flavour.

0:28:14 > 0:28:17Och, you're right there, pet.

0:28:23 > 0:28:26Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:28:26 > 0:28:29E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk