0:00:00 > 0:00:00- *
0:00:02 > 0:00:05- Boundaries are there to be pushed.
0:00:06 > 0:00:10- I'm Gareth Potter, - a DJ and actor by profession.
0:00:10 > 0:00:12- My parents didn't speak Welsh.
0:00:12 > 0:00:16- I've always been aware - of linguistic boundaries.
0:00:18 > 0:00:21- This series is about a real, - geographical boundary.
0:00:22 > 0:00:26- I want to understand the - borderlands' history and culture...
0:00:27 > 0:00:29- ..and meet people who live here.
0:00:30 > 0:00:34- Does living on a border - create its own unique identity?
0:00:34 > 0:00:38- Come with me - on a journey to find out.
0:00:49 > 0:00:53- My journey has taken me - from Holywell and Chester...
0:00:53 > 0:00:55- ..to Knighton and Ludlow.
0:00:55 > 0:01:00- I've met people and visited places - I'd only passed through before.
0:01:00 > 0:01:02- Today, I'm in Presteigne.
0:01:02 > 0:01:07- The obvious place to start - is the bridge on the town outskirts.
0:01:08 > 0:01:12- Herefordshire, Radnorshire.
0:01:13 > 0:01:14- England.
0:01:15 > 0:01:16- Wales.
0:01:20 > 0:01:24- The River Llugwy is the boundary.
0:01:24 > 0:01:28- The little town - is full of character.
0:01:28 > 0:01:33- Independent shops and cafes - are thriving.
0:01:33 > 0:01:35- Norman in origin...
0:01:35 > 0:01:40- ..Presteigne was old Radnorshire's - main town until 1888...
0:01:41 > 0:01:44- ..which is why - the county courts were here.
0:01:44 > 0:01:49- The court is part of - the Judge's Lodging Museum.
0:01:49 > 0:01:53- It has won numerous awards - for bringing history to life.
0:01:55 > 0:01:58- It opened as a museum in 1997.
0:01:58 > 0:02:02- The court was still - in session until 1990.
0:02:02 > 0:02:07- Imagine being found guilty - and walking down the stairs.
0:02:07 > 0:02:09- Take him down.
0:02:11 > 0:02:15- The walk down to the cells - is quite frightening.
0:02:15 > 0:02:19- Even worse, - they weren't all villains.
0:02:19 > 0:02:22- Some were sent down for being poor.
0:02:22 > 0:02:25- What fate awaited them?
0:02:25 > 0:02:28- Death, transportation to Australia?
0:02:35 > 0:02:37- Ugh!
0:02:38 > 0:02:41- I've slept in worse places.
0:02:43 > 0:02:46- Luckily for me, - the door wasn't locked this time.
0:02:47 > 0:02:51- The Radnorshire Arms - is another historical building.
0:02:51 > 0:02:55- It's an outstanding - Jacobean building.
0:02:55 > 0:02:59- It was a house, originally. - A big posh house, I'd say.
0:03:01 > 0:03:05- Former teacher Dai Hawkins - is a local historian.
0:03:06 > 0:03:10- After the death - of Llywelyn The Last...
0:03:10 > 0:03:12- ..a chain of towns built in Wales...
0:03:13 > 0:03:15- ..and along the border.
0:03:16 > 0:03:18- They were English strongholds.
0:03:19 > 0:03:22- In the late Middle Ages...
0:03:23 > 0:03:26- ..the local country folk...
0:03:27 > 0:03:29- ..all spoke Welsh.
0:03:30 > 0:03:34- The town dwellers were English.
0:03:34 > 0:03:39- Little by little, - the Welsh moved in.
0:03:39 > 0:03:42- In 1397...
0:03:43 > 0:03:48- ..the Bishop Of Hereford - came round the area...
0:03:49 > 0:03:53- ..to hold some sort - of church court...
0:03:54 > 0:03:56- ..and collect money.
0:03:57 > 0:03:59- By now...
0:04:00 > 0:04:03- ..in towns like Knighton...
0:04:04 > 0:04:06- ..and Presteigne...
0:04:07 > 0:04:09- ..and Kington in England...
0:04:09 > 0:04:14- ..Welsh speakers - outnumbered the English.
0:04:16 > 0:04:20- English is the main language now.
0:04:20 > 0:04:24- When Welsh was a living language, - the dialect was unique.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29- You've researched the local dialect.
0:04:31 > 0:04:32- It's amazing.
0:04:33 > 0:04:39- The people of Radnorshire spoke - with a strong South Wales accent.
0:04:39 > 0:04:41- It was some sort of Gwenhwyseg.
0:04:41 > 0:04:45- Unlike South Wales, - they didn't harden consonants.
0:04:45 > 0:04:48- They said "wedws e", - not "dywedodd e".
0:04:48 > 0:04:52- They had phrases like - "cwni yn y bore"...
0:04:52 > 0:04:55- ..and "bagle" for legs.
0:04:56 > 0:04:59- If they were injured, - they had painful "bagle".
0:05:00 > 0:05:02- George Borrow visited Presteigne.
0:05:02 > 0:05:05- George Borrow visited Presteigne.- - He stayed in this tavern...
0:05:05 > 0:05:07- ..maybe in this room.
0:05:07 > 0:05:11- He asked the maid, - "Are we in England or Wales?"
0:05:11 > 0:05:15- She replied, - "No, we're in Radnorshire."
0:05:16 > 0:05:19- I said farewell - to Dai in Presteigne...
0:05:20 > 0:05:22- ..and headed for Radnor Forest.
0:05:23 > 0:05:25- It isn't a forest of trees.
0:05:25 > 0:05:30- The old meaning of forest - is open land designated to hunting.
0:05:32 > 0:05:37- A long time ago, so the story goes, - a dragon lived in the forest.
0:05:37 > 0:05:41- It traumatized the locals.
0:05:41 > 0:05:44- Four churches - dedicated to St Michael...
0:05:44 > 0:05:48- ..were built - to imprison the dragon.
0:05:48 > 0:05:52- St Michael fought - the dragon in the Bible.
0:05:52 > 0:05:56- This is Llanfihangel Cefnllys.
0:05:57 > 0:06:00- The dragon is sleeping - somewhere in the forest.
0:06:01 > 0:06:03- Ssh. I hope it doesn't wake up.
0:06:12 > 0:06:15- I head off on my bike - to one of my favourite towns.
0:06:16 > 0:06:21- It's famous for its midsummer - festival, alternative residents...
0:06:22 > 0:06:24- ..and books.
0:06:24 > 0:06:26- Where else, but Hay-on-Wye?
0:06:28 > 0:06:31- There are traces - of two Norman castles here.
0:06:32 > 0:06:36- The star attraction - was once William de Braose's castle.
0:06:36 > 0:06:40- Llywelyn Ap Iorwerth - had him hung in 1230...
0:06:41 > 0:06:45- ..for having an affair - with his wife, Joan.
0:06:45 > 0:06:49- The owner now is Richard Booth.
0:06:49 > 0:06:53- He decided Hay - should be famous for something...
0:06:54 > 0:06:56- ..selling second-hand books.
0:06:56 > 0:07:01- Hay is an eccentric town. - It's right on the border.
0:07:01 > 0:07:04- Part is in England, - part in Wales.
0:07:05 > 0:07:09- Some people claim - Hay isn't on the border...
0:07:09 > 0:07:13- ..but that - it's an independent country...
0:07:13 > 0:07:16- ..a kingdom, all on its own.
0:07:16 > 0:07:20- That's how Richard Booth - drew attention to the place.
0:07:20 > 0:07:23- He declared himself - the King Of Hay...
0:07:23 > 0:07:26- ..from his castle - which was now a bookshop.
0:07:27 > 0:07:30- Half a million visitors - come every year.
0:07:30 > 0:07:35- The castle is an integral part - of the experience.
0:07:35 > 0:07:40- It was bought in 2011 by a Trust - that still looks after the place.
0:07:43 > 0:07:47- Another reason for visiting Hay - is to see an old friend.
0:07:48 > 0:07:51- What did she think - of the town's identity?
0:07:52 > 0:07:57- Pat Morgan, of the band Datblygu, - comes from the Amman Valley.
0:07:57 > 0:08:01- She has lived in Hay for many years.
0:08:01 > 0:08:04- What kept you here?
0:08:05 > 0:08:09- The mountains and - the way the town constantly changes.
0:08:10 > 0:08:14- There are a lot of friendly - people here.
0:08:14 > 0:08:18- I've made friends.
0:08:18 > 0:08:21- I've put down roots.
0:08:22 > 0:08:24- I can't leave now.
0:08:24 > 0:08:28- I think it's fantastic.
0:08:29 > 0:08:31- I couldn't wait to get here.
0:08:31 > 0:08:36- Some people behave - as if they still live in London.
0:08:36 > 0:08:40- It's like a suburb of North London.
0:08:41 > 0:08:42- Mmm.
0:08:43 > 0:08:46- Hampstead could be - just round the corner.
0:08:47 > 0:08:49- What's the best thing about Hay?
0:08:50 > 0:08:55- It's a place that generates - all sorts of original ideas...
0:08:56 > 0:08:58- ..and people make them happen.
0:08:59 > 0:09:02- The first time I came here...
0:09:03 > 0:09:06- ..I lost track of time.
0:09:07 > 0:09:11- I didn't know how long - I'd been here. I lost myself.
0:09:11 > 0:09:15- There was something interesting - that drew me to it.
0:09:15 > 0:09:19- People can do what they want.
0:09:20 > 0:09:23- There's a laissez-faire feel.
0:09:24 > 0:09:29- All the weirdoes are left alone!
0:09:30 > 0:09:32- That's why I moved here!
0:09:35 > 0:09:38- Your house is on the border.
0:09:38 > 0:09:41- On Offa's Dyke - the Welsh side.
0:09:41 > 0:09:43- So you just about live in Wales.
0:09:43 > 0:09:44- So you just about live in Wales.- - Yes.
0:09:44 > 0:09:47- Do people feel - they're on the border?
0:09:47 > 0:09:51- Is it important to them?
0:09:51 > 0:09:56- There is a history of not wanting - to be Welsh.
0:09:56 > 0:10:01- If a woman who lived on the border - was about to give birth...
0:10:01 > 0:10:03- ..she'd cross the border...
0:10:03 > 0:10:06- ..so the baby was born in England.
0:10:06 > 0:10:07- Well, well.
0:10:07 > 0:10:08- Well, well.- - Oh, yes.
0:10:08 > 0:10:11- I hear stories - like that all the time.
0:10:11 > 0:10:13- Do people still feel like that?
0:10:13 > 0:10:15- Do people still feel like that?- - No. Things have changed.
0:10:16 > 0:10:18- That's how they used to feel.
0:10:19 > 0:10:21- In Victorian times.
0:10:22 > 0:10:25- What's it like, to be Welsh in Hay?
0:10:26 > 0:10:29- In the beginning...
0:10:29 > 0:10:34- ..I really missed - not hearing the Welsh language.
0:10:35 > 0:10:39- People took the mick out - of my Welsh accent.
0:10:39 > 0:10:45- I had to go somewhere - to hear Welsh being spoken...
0:10:45 > 0:10:47- ..to feel better.
0:10:48 > 0:10:50- It's improved now.
0:10:51 > 0:10:56- People accept that - we must have Welsh and English.
0:10:57 > 0:11:00- The two languages work.
0:11:01 > 0:11:04- Not many people speak Welsh here.
0:11:04 > 0:11:07- There's no opposition to it.
0:11:07 > 0:11:09- Things have changed.
0:11:13 > 0:11:16- # And the doubts disappear
0:11:17 > 0:11:19- # I swallow tranquilizers #
0:11:20 > 0:11:25- Datblygu's new album, Porwr Trallod, - was released recently.
0:11:25 > 0:11:27- I can't not ask Pat about it.
0:11:27 > 0:11:31- The band greatly influenced - the Welsh music scene.
0:11:32 > 0:11:36- How would you describe - the new Datblygu record?
0:11:37 > 0:11:42- It's different - from what we did before.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45- This is a new period for us.
0:11:45 > 0:11:49- It has to be relevant - to how we feel now...
0:11:49 > 0:11:52- ..what's happening in our lives.
0:11:52 > 0:11:56- David and I always - mess about with ideas.
0:11:57 > 0:12:01- He writes, - and I pick up sounds I like.
0:12:03 > 0:12:08- Your presence has been - important on Datblygu's records.
0:12:08 > 0:12:10- It's more prominent now.
0:12:11 > 0:12:13- It's more of a partnership.
0:12:14 > 0:12:19- We say what's on our mind, - all the time.
0:12:21 > 0:12:25- # But now this, but now this
0:12:25 > 0:12:27- # But now this #
0:12:31 > 0:12:36- Later, Pat and I try - something different from music.
0:12:37 > 0:12:40- I continue on my journey - along the border.
0:12:40 > 0:12:40- .
0:12:44 > 0:12:44- Subtitles
0:12:44 > 0:12:46- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:12:48 > 0:12:51- I've arrived in Hay-on-Wye - on my border journey...
0:12:51 > 0:12:56- ..and met an old friend, Pat, - a member of the band Datblygu.
0:12:56 > 0:13:01- As well as bookshops, many - craftspeople have shops in Hay now.
0:13:01 > 0:13:04- Pat likes this small - shop's glass products.
0:13:05 > 0:13:10- She has arranged for me - to try my hand at glassblowing.
0:13:13 > 0:13:19- Paul Brown and partner Rowena create - fine pieces in their workshop.
0:13:19 > 0:13:23- It looks easy, - but that's because of their skill.
0:13:23 > 0:13:28- Molten glass comes out of - the furnace at over 1,000 degrees.
0:13:29 > 0:13:33- One technique is - blowing glass to create a shape.
0:13:33 > 0:13:36- He shows us how - to make a simple globe.
0:13:36 > 0:13:38- Now, it's my turn.
0:13:41 > 0:13:43- Keep it level, on track.
0:13:45 > 0:13:47- Slowly.
0:13:48 > 0:13:50- It's harder than it looks.
0:13:51 > 0:13:53- Oh! I'm pleased with that.
0:13:54 > 0:13:56- Go on, Pat. It's your turn.
0:13:57 > 0:13:58- BLOWING SOUND
0:13:58 > 0:14:00- GIGGLES
0:14:02 > 0:14:03- It looks great.
0:14:04 > 0:14:06- That's fantastic. Wowee!
0:14:08 > 0:14:10- That goes in there.
0:14:10 > 0:14:14- It stays there until tomorrow, - to cool down overnight.
0:14:14 > 0:14:15- Can we pick it up in the morning?
0:14:15 > 0:14:16- Can we pick it up in the morning?- - Yes.
0:14:16 > 0:14:18- Fantastic.
0:14:18 > 0:14:21- Well done! Your first bauble.
0:14:21 > 0:14:24- The first of many. - I see a new career coming on.
0:14:33 > 0:14:37- The next morning, our baubles - have cooled and hardened.
0:14:37 > 0:14:39- It's been great to see Pat again.
0:14:39 > 0:14:41- You have it, as a small gift.
0:14:41 > 0:14:42- You have it, as a small gift.- - Thanks!
0:14:43 > 0:14:44- I have to get on my bike.
0:14:44 > 0:14:45- I have to get on my bike.- - Of course.
0:14:45 > 0:14:46- I'll see you soon.
0:14:46 > 0:14:47- I'll see you soon.- - Great. Ta-ra.
0:14:48 > 0:14:51- So I set out on my bike - to continue my border journey.
0:14:53 > 0:14:58- I'm heading south from Hay to - the heart of the Black Mountains...
0:14:58 > 0:15:01- ..to a place that - shouted out for a stop...
0:15:01 > 0:15:05- ..Capel-y-ffin, - the chapel on the border.
0:15:05 > 0:15:09- I pass the old priory of Llanthony.
0:15:09 > 0:15:14- Dating back to the 12th century, - it's a fine sight in the sunshine.
0:15:15 > 0:15:19- But I carry on to meet - Frank Olding in Capel-y-ffin.
0:15:21 > 0:15:25- The River Honddu - flows through the village.
0:15:25 > 0:15:29- Here's the chapel - which gives the village its name.
0:15:30 > 0:15:35- At eight by four metres, it's - one of Wales's smallest chapels.
0:15:35 > 0:15:40- But we continue up the mountain - to another sacred building.
0:15:40 > 0:15:45- This monastery was founded - in 1869 by Joseph Leycester Lyne...
0:15:45 > 0:15:48- ..or Father Ignatius, - as he was known.
0:15:48 > 0:15:52- He couldn't have chosen - a more striking spot.
0:15:53 > 0:15:56- What are those mountains' names?
0:15:58 > 0:16:00- That's Y Pigwn in front of us.
0:16:00 > 0:16:05- It's part of Mynydd Y Gader, - or Hatterell Ridge in English.
0:16:05 > 0:16:07- That's Y Twmpa.
0:16:07 > 0:16:13- In English, it's Lord Hereford's - Knob, if we're allowed to say that!
0:16:13 > 0:16:18- English names - can be funnier than Welsh ones.
0:16:19 > 0:16:22- Yes, in this case, it's Y Twmpa.
0:16:24 > 0:16:26- Nant Y Bwch is on the other side.
0:16:27 > 0:16:31- Cefn Goch and Darren Goch - are at the end of the valley.
0:16:31 > 0:16:32- Wow.
0:16:32 > 0:16:36- We can see Rhos Dirion - right at the top of the valley.
0:16:37 > 0:16:39- Why is this place famous?
0:16:40 > 0:16:43- All kinds of people - have been drawn here.
0:16:44 > 0:16:46- In one way, it's an odd place.
0:16:46 > 0:16:49- It attracts people - from different backgrounds.
0:16:50 > 0:16:52- It's very remote, for one thing.
0:16:54 > 0:16:59- The first people here were monks, - back in the 12th century.
0:17:00 > 0:17:02- Gerald Of Wales said...
0:17:02 > 0:17:06- ..that the man who founded - the first monastery...
0:17:06 > 0:17:09- ..the priory in the middle - of the valley...
0:17:09 > 0:17:12- ..came here to hunt - and got a bit lost.
0:17:12 > 0:17:17- He found this remote place - and had a religious conversion.
0:17:17 > 0:17:20- He decided to live - on his own as a hermit.
0:17:21 > 0:17:26- Others followed and the priory - was founded in the valley.
0:17:27 > 0:17:30- The place is mentioned - in Culhwch And Olwen too.
0:17:30 > 0:17:32- Arthur came here...
0:17:32 > 0:17:38- ..with all the dogs and warriors of - Britain, to hunt the Twrch Trwyth.
0:17:38 > 0:17:42- Another group of monks - came here in the 19th century...
0:17:42 > 0:17:44- ..with Father Ignatius.
0:17:45 > 0:17:47- What was remarkable about him?
0:17:48 > 0:17:53- He wanted to re-establish monastic - life in the Church Of England...
0:17:53 > 0:17:55- ..as it was called at that time.
0:17:55 > 0:17:58- He had tried to do this in Norwich.
0:17:58 > 0:18:01- But there was some - sort of scandal there.
0:18:01 > 0:18:03- They had to leave in a hurry.
0:18:04 > 0:18:08- They came to a remote place, - far from the world's temptations.
0:18:08 > 0:18:12- He founded the monastery - behind us in 1864.
0:18:14 > 0:18:18- What about the scandal? - I heard that women could join them.
0:18:18 > 0:18:21- Nuns lived here with the monks.
0:18:23 > 0:18:27- Father Ignatius - often travelled to preach.
0:18:28 > 0:18:32- That's how he raised money - to build the monastery.
0:18:32 > 0:18:33- Gigs.
0:18:33 > 0:18:34- Gigs.- - Exactly.
0:18:34 > 0:18:39- When he was away, monastic - discipline deteriorated a little.
0:18:39 > 0:18:42- There was talk of a few scandals.
0:18:43 > 0:18:47- But he joined in - the area's cultural life.
0:18:47 > 0:18:50- He was very popular as a preacher...
0:18:50 > 0:18:52- ..in Abergavenny, Hay and Brecon.
0:18:53 > 0:18:56- He was made a member - of the Gorsedd Of Bards...
0:18:56 > 0:18:59- ..at the Brecon National Eisteddfod.
0:18:59 > 0:19:00- Did he speak Welsh?
0:19:00 > 0:19:03- Did he speak Welsh?- - He spoke a little Welsh, certainly.
0:19:03 > 0:19:06- Welsh was the language - of the valley.
0:19:06 > 0:19:10- He wanted to preach - to the people in their own language.
0:19:10 > 0:19:13- So he learnt some Welsh.
0:19:16 > 0:19:21- In 1880, visions of the Virgin Mary - were seen on the monastery's land.
0:19:24 > 0:19:27- This was in August, - late in the 19th century.
0:19:27 > 0:19:31- One of the village - children saw it first.
0:19:32 > 0:19:35- The Virgin came down - the hill behind us.
0:19:36 > 0:19:38- It happened for several nights.
0:19:39 > 0:19:43- In the end, the monks - and Father Ignatius saw her too.
0:19:44 > 0:19:46- She came down the hill...
0:19:47 > 0:19:50- ..and floated above a rhubarb bush.
0:19:51 > 0:19:53- Then she disappeared.
0:19:54 > 0:19:58- They erected a kind of sanctuary - where she appeared...
0:19:58 > 0:20:00- ..the statue behind us.
0:20:02 > 0:20:08- They cut leaves from the rhubarb - bush and sent them to people.
0:20:10 > 0:20:15- One of the leaves - healed a nun's leg.
0:20:17 > 0:20:19- That rhubarb leaf...
0:20:20 > 0:20:22- ..is in Abergavenny Museum.
0:20:22 > 0:20:24- The holy rhubarb leaf.
0:20:24 > 0:20:25- The holy rhubarb leaf.- - The holy rhubarb leaf.
0:20:26 > 0:20:27- In the 1920s...
0:20:28 > 0:20:31- ..a group of artists - and poets came to live here.
0:20:32 > 0:20:35- Eric Gill and David Jones - were two of the best known.
0:20:36 > 0:20:40- David Jones wrote his famous - poem about World War I here...
0:20:40 > 0:20:41- ..In Parenthesis.
0:20:42 > 0:20:46- TS Eliot called the poem - "a work of genius".
0:20:47 > 0:20:48- In the 1960s...
0:20:49 > 0:20:53- ..Allen Ginsberg mentioned - Capel-y-ffin and the mountain...
0:20:53 > 0:20:56- ..in his poem "Wales Visitation".
0:20:58 > 0:21:03- As well as Catholic monks - in the Middle Ages...
0:21:03 > 0:21:05- ..and the Anglican monks...
0:21:05 > 0:21:09- ..the place has a strong - Nonconformist tradition.
0:21:09 > 0:21:14- Walter Craddock and other Puritans - came here in the mid-17th century.
0:21:14 > 0:21:19- They established a chapel the other - side of the hill, and a chapel here.
0:21:20 > 0:21:23- The reason the chapel - was on the border...
0:21:23 > 0:21:28- ..was because nonconformity - in the 17th century was illegal...
0:21:28 > 0:21:29- ..like Catholicism.
0:21:30 > 0:21:34- Sometimes, the county sheriff - came here to demolish the chapel...
0:21:35 > 0:21:37- ..and arrest people.
0:21:38 > 0:21:42- But if they crossed - the border to the next county...
0:21:42 > 0:21:45- ..the sheriff couldn't follow them.
0:21:45 > 0:21:48- That's why early - nonconformist chapels...
0:21:48 > 0:21:51- ..were very often - on county borders.
0:21:51 > 0:21:55- That's why Capel-y-ffin - is on the border...
0:21:55 > 0:21:58- ..between Breconshire - and Monmouthshire.
0:22:03 > 0:22:06- It's a lovely place - and inspirational, in a way.
0:22:06 > 0:22:07- Yes.
0:22:08 > 0:22:12- It's a place between worlds. - It's on several borders.
0:22:12 > 0:22:15- The border between - Wales and England...
0:22:15 > 0:22:18- ..and Monmouthshire - and Breconshire.
0:22:18 > 0:22:21- But there's also - a border between worlds.
0:22:22 > 0:22:24- Sometimes, - if you're up here in fog...
0:22:25 > 0:22:29- ..the border between this world, - our everyday world...
0:22:29 > 0:22:31- ..and the otherworld...
0:22:31 > 0:22:32- ..is very narrow.
0:22:39 > 0:22:40- Next week...
0:22:40 > 0:22:45- ..the end of our journey approaches - as we reach Monmouth and Chepstow.
0:23:01 > 0:23:03- S4C Subtitles by Gwead
0:23:03 > 0:23:03- .