0:00:00 > 0:00:00- *
0:00:02 > 0:00:05- Boundaries are there to be pushed.
0:00:06 > 0:00:10- I'm Gareth Potter, - a DJ and actor by profession.
0:00:10 > 0:00:12- My parents didn't speak Welsh.
0:00:12 > 0:00:16- I've always been aware - of linguistic boundaries.
0:00:18 > 0:00:21- This series is about - a real, geographical boundary.
0:00:22 > 0:00:26- I want to understand the - borderlands' history and culture...
0:00:27 > 0:00:29- ..and meet the people who live here.
0:00:30 > 0:00:34- Does living on a border - create its own unique identity?
0:00:34 > 0:00:38- Come with me - on a journey to find out.
0:00:42 > 0:00:47- My journey along - the Wales-England is almost over.
0:00:48 > 0:00:51- I've reached Monmouthshire.
0:00:51 > 0:00:54- The county was created in 1535.
0:00:55 > 0:00:58- There has been - confusion over the years.
0:00:58 > 0:01:00- Did it belong to Wales or England?
0:01:01 > 0:01:03- We'll find out later.
0:01:04 > 0:01:09- This week, we start in an orchard - between Newcastle and Skenfrith.
0:01:10 > 0:01:14- The area is well-known now - for wine and cider.
0:01:16 > 0:01:19- I've come to meet - David Hughes Jones.
0:01:20 > 0:01:24- There are many - producers in this area.
0:01:24 > 0:01:29- Yes, many farms - grow apples in their orchards.
0:01:31 > 0:01:33- They press the apples in autumn...
0:01:33 > 0:01:36- ..and make cider with the juice...
0:01:36 > 0:01:39- ..so they can drink it - socially all year.
0:01:39 > 0:01:44- People also compete in festivals, - to see who makes the best cider.
0:01:44 > 0:01:48- There's a lot of competition - to make the best cider.
0:01:48 > 0:01:53- There are small village shows - and cider festivals in pubs.
0:01:55 > 0:01:58- Is there a tradition - of cider making in Wales?
0:01:59 > 0:02:01- Yes, indeed.
0:02:01 > 0:02:05- Many people this side - of the border make their own cider.
0:02:05 > 0:02:08- Their cider is the best, - or so they say!
0:02:09 > 0:02:10- Of course!
0:02:10 > 0:02:13- What are the trees in this orchard?
0:02:14 > 0:02:17- Apple trees, - for making sweet cider.
0:02:20 > 0:02:22- The farm has diversified.
0:02:22 > 0:02:24- They're grown on a big scale.
0:02:26 > 0:02:28- So this is the farm's main crop.
0:02:29 > 0:02:34- Yes. There aren't many animals - grazing between the trees.
0:02:34 > 0:02:36- The farm grows apples.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40- They take care of the trees - to get a good crop next year.
0:02:41 > 0:02:44- I must admit, I'm a cider fan.
0:02:44 > 0:02:47- All this talk has - made my mouth water.
0:02:48 > 0:02:50- It's high time to taste a few.
0:02:50 > 0:02:52- What would you like first?
0:02:52 > 0:02:56- I've heard that - the best way to drink cider...
0:02:56 > 0:03:00- ..is to start with dryer cider, - then a sweeter one.
0:03:00 > 0:03:02- You're more experienced than me!
0:03:02 > 0:03:04- Off you go.
0:03:04 > 0:03:07- Shall we start with this medium dry?
0:03:07 > 0:03:08- Great.
0:03:12 > 0:03:13- Mm.
0:03:13 > 0:03:14- Mm.- - Very nice.
0:03:15 > 0:03:17- You don't come from this area.
0:03:17 > 0:03:18- No.
0:03:19 > 0:03:21- I've lived here about 40 years.
0:03:21 > 0:03:26- But I'm a Cardiganshire man, - from Penrhyn-Coch near Aberystwyth.
0:03:27 > 0:03:32- I went to school there, then Ardwyn - Grammar School in Aberystwyth.
0:03:32 > 0:03:36- After going to Cardiff University, - I found a job in Monmouth.
0:03:37 > 0:03:39- I've been here since 1976.
0:03:39 > 0:03:42- So the job brought you here.
0:03:43 > 0:03:45- What kept you here?
0:03:45 > 0:03:47- I married a local girl.
0:03:48 > 0:03:50- She comes from the area.
0:03:50 > 0:03:53- The rest is history, as they say.
0:03:53 > 0:03:57- Our two children - attended Welsh-medium schools.
0:03:57 > 0:04:02- Our grandchildren - go to Abergavenny Welsh School.
0:04:02 > 0:04:06- Let's taste a sweeter cider. - This is medium.
0:04:07 > 0:04:09- Gareth, I'm happy to comply.
0:04:10 > 0:04:11- Great.
0:04:13 > 0:04:15- That's a fine colour.
0:04:15 > 0:04:17- That's a nice sound.
0:04:17 > 0:04:22- The Vilberie apples in the dry cider - come from Brittany originally.
0:04:22 > 0:04:25- The Dabinett apples - in the sweeter cider...
0:04:26 > 0:04:31- ..were found by William Dabinett - growing wild in a Somerset hedge.
0:04:32 > 0:04:36- Do you want to taste another one? - There are three here.
0:04:37 > 0:04:38- What is this one?
0:04:38 > 0:04:40- What is this one?- - Naughty Horsey.
0:04:40 > 0:04:41- Right.
0:04:44 > 0:04:45- This one is less bubbly.
0:04:45 > 0:04:46- This one is less bubbly.- - OK.
0:04:47 > 0:04:48- Cheers.
0:04:48 > 0:04:49- Cheers.- - Cheers again.
0:04:51 > 0:04:52- You've moved here.
0:04:53 > 0:04:58- What is the main difference between - the west and the borderlands?
0:05:00 > 0:05:04- In this area, the border - is something on paper.
0:05:06 > 0:05:11- We're not aware of a border with - England, about 50 yards from here.
0:05:12 > 0:05:17- There are place names like Llangrove - and Llangarron in England...
0:05:17 > 0:05:21- ..and English names - on the Welsh side of the border.
0:05:23 > 0:05:27- We remember the border - when we go to England.
0:05:28 > 0:05:30- We fill our lungs with Welsh air.
0:05:31 > 0:05:36- We're happy to breathe - Welsh air when we return.
0:05:37 > 0:05:41- We know it's there, but - don't think about it every day.
0:05:42 > 0:05:44- It's something on paper.
0:05:44 > 0:05:47- Let's drink a toast - to the borderlands.
0:05:48 > 0:05:49- Right.
0:05:51 > 0:05:52- Yes.
0:05:53 > 0:05:54- Ah.
0:05:54 > 0:05:56- I could stay here all night.
0:05:56 > 0:05:57- Fantastic.
0:05:59 > 0:06:01- I leave my bike for a while...
0:06:01 > 0:06:05- ..and continue my journey - to Monmouth on the River Wye.
0:06:05 > 0:06:09- It's the fifth longest - river in Britain...
0:06:09 > 0:06:13- ..coming all the way from - the slopes of Pumlumon in Mid Wales.
0:06:13 > 0:06:17- The salmon in the river - can grow to more than 50 pounds...
0:06:18 > 0:06:21- ..and almost half - the size of this canoe.
0:06:28 > 0:06:30- Thanks. That was fantastic!
0:06:30 > 0:06:33- Let's see - what Monmouth has to offer.
0:06:34 > 0:06:38- The bridge in Monmouth - is the only one in Britain...
0:06:39 > 0:06:43- ..with a tower to protect - the town from the enemy outside.
0:06:44 > 0:06:48- Several famous people - have links with the town.
0:06:48 > 0:06:51- King Henry V of England - was born here.
0:06:52 > 0:06:57- This sculpture is Charles Rolls, - son of the local Baron Llangattock.
0:06:58 > 0:07:03- Rolls was the first to fly to France - and back without stopping in 1910.
0:07:03 > 0:07:06- But he's better known...
0:07:06 > 0:07:11- ..for establishing one of the most - famous car companies in the world...
0:07:11 > 0:07:13- ..Rolls-Royce.
0:07:15 > 0:07:17- I really like this busy town.
0:07:18 > 0:07:21- The narrow streets hide - unusual treasures...
0:07:22 > 0:07:25- ..like this remarkable - theatre, the Savoy.
0:07:30 > 0:07:32- "To be, or not to be
0:07:32 > 0:07:34- "That is the question"
0:07:36 > 0:07:42- This is the oldest theatre site - in Wales still staging performances.
0:07:42 > 0:07:47- Before leaving Monmouth, - I talk to historian Dr Elin Jones.
0:07:47 > 0:07:52- She's my former teacher and an - amazing ambassador for this area.
0:07:53 > 0:07:57- Near The Kymin's round tower - is a perfect place to meet her.
0:07:58 > 0:08:03- It was built by the gentlemen - of the Monmouth Picnic Club in 1794.
0:08:04 > 0:08:06- It's right on the Offa's Dyke Path.
0:08:08 > 0:08:11- Can you tell us a little...
0:08:11 > 0:08:16- ..about the importance - of Monmouth and Monmouthshire?
0:08:16 > 0:08:18- Is it part of England or Wales?
0:08:18 > 0:08:23- Don't you suggest to me, Gareth - Potter, that it's part of England!
0:08:23 > 0:08:24- CHUCKLES
0:08:24 > 0:08:27- This has always been part of Wales.
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- Parts of England were in Wales too. - But this is Wales.
0:08:31 > 0:08:34- Why do you think it's in England?
0:08:34 > 0:08:38- As a child, I had a map, - titled Wales And Monmouthshire.
0:08:38 > 0:08:41- Right. That's very misleading.
0:08:41 > 0:08:46- That's because of the legal system - introduced in the Acts Of Union.
0:08:46 > 0:08:51- There were 13 counties in Wales. - It's very hard to divide 13 by four.
0:08:52 > 0:08:54- Monmouthshire was left out.
0:08:57 > 0:09:00- It had to join - an English legal circuit.
0:09:00 > 0:09:02- That's the only reason.
0:09:02 > 0:09:05- That fitted into - a historical pattern.
0:09:05 > 0:09:08- When William The Conqueror - arrived in 1066...
0:09:09 > 0:09:12- ..he occupied all - of England in a few years.
0:09:12 > 0:09:17- Then he sent his most trusted lords - to defend the border with Wales...
0:09:17 > 0:09:19- ..that hadn't been conquered.
0:09:19 > 0:09:24- The Normans occupied this area - soon after the Norman conquest.
0:09:25 > 0:09:27- You can see why. - Look at the landscape.
0:09:28 > 0:09:31- There are no hills here, - unlike North Wales...
0:09:32 > 0:09:37- ..and no geographical obstacle - for conquerors from the east.
0:09:37 > 0:09:40- Since when have people - lived in this area?
0:09:42 > 0:09:44- Good grief, since the beginning!
0:09:45 > 0:09:49- Since the end of the Ice Age. - There is no evidence before that.
0:09:50 > 0:09:55- But 10,000 years ago, - when the sea level rose again...
0:09:55 > 0:09:57- ..we know people lived here.
0:09:57 > 0:10:00- There's plenty - of archaeological evidence.
0:10:00 > 0:10:03- The most striking evidence...
0:10:03 > 0:10:06- ..is footprints found - in the River Severn's mud.
0:10:06 > 0:10:09- Two adults and a child - walked in the mud.
0:10:10 > 0:10:12- Their footprints were fossilized.
0:10:13 > 0:10:17- Now, they're in the National - Museum Of Wales in Cardiff.
0:10:17 > 0:10:19- The Chartists came here too.
0:10:19 > 0:10:21- The Chartists came here too.- - Yes, they came here in chains.
0:10:21 > 0:10:25- Chartists in the industrial - valleys wanted the right to vote...
0:10:26 > 0:10:28- ..and human rights - we take for granted.
0:10:29 > 0:10:31- In 1839, they marched on Newport.
0:10:31 > 0:10:36- They were shot down in front of the - Westgate Hotel. Many were killed.
0:10:36 > 0:10:40- They were buried at night, - in St Woolos graveyard.
0:10:40 > 0:10:43- The leaders were brought here...
0:10:43 > 0:10:47- ..to the Shire Hall - in Monmouth, in chains...
0:10:47 > 0:10:51- ..and sentenced - to that horrific death...
0:10:51 > 0:10:54- ..of being hanged, quartered...
0:10:54 > 0:10:58- ..and disembowelled, - in front of their own eyes.
0:10:58 > 0:11:00- That was the last time...
0:11:00 > 0:11:04- ..that terrible sentence - was pronounced in Britain...
0:11:05 > 0:11:07- ..here, in Monmouth Shire Hall.
0:11:07 > 0:11:11- But a decision was made - not to execute them.
0:11:12 > 0:11:16- They were exiled - for life to Australia.
0:11:16 > 0:11:19- One of them, - John Frost, the leader...
0:11:19 > 0:11:22- ..came back to Newport, - his home town.
0:11:22 > 0:11:26- Monmouth doesn't seem - to be a Welsh town at all.
0:11:29 > 0:11:33- Does the Welsh language - have a history in this area?
0:11:34 > 0:11:36- It does.
0:11:36 > 0:11:41- Place names show that Welsh - was spoken here for centuries...
0:11:41 > 0:11:45- ..long before they spoke - English or Norman French.
0:11:45 > 0:11:49- But because it was - conquered so early...
0:11:49 > 0:11:51- ..it was very easy - to turn to English.
0:11:52 > 0:11:56- The English occupiers - were in positions of authority.
0:11:56 > 0:11:58- But in the rural areas...
0:11:58 > 0:12:04- ..they spoke Welsh and upheld - the old Welsh laws and traditions.
0:12:06 > 0:12:08- There was a huge forest in Gwent.
0:12:09 > 0:12:14- It was held by Welsh speakers - for many centuries.
0:12:15 > 0:12:18- Now, Welsh is heard - in Welsh-medium schools...
0:12:18 > 0:12:20- ..in the old Monmouthshire...
0:12:21 > 0:12:26- ..and the Welsh schools in Newport, - the most anglicized area.
0:12:26 > 0:12:29- It's a kind of rearguard action.
0:12:29 > 0:12:33- Efforts are being made now - to open Welsh schools...
0:12:34 > 0:12:38- ..and raise Welsh speakers - in towns, not the countryside.
0:12:40 > 0:12:44- Later, my journey down - the border ends in Chepstow.
0:12:44 > 0:12:49- I share one of the unique - celebrations of the border people.
0:12:50 > 0:12:50- .
0:12:54 > 0:12:54- Subtitles
0:12:54 > 0:12:56- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:13:03 > 0:13:06- Well, - I'm nearing the end of my journey.
0:13:07 > 0:13:11- Before I reach Chepstow - and the South Wales coast...
0:13:11 > 0:13:15- ..I stop in Tintern Abbey.
0:13:20 > 0:13:25- The abbey was established - on the River Wye in 1131.
0:13:25 > 0:13:30- It fell into ruin when Henry VIII - disbanded the monasteries.
0:13:30 > 0:13:33- In the late 18th century...
0:13:33 > 0:13:38- ..it became popular with bards, - for instance William Wordsworth...
0:13:38 > 0:13:41- ..and artists like JMW Turner.
0:13:42 > 0:13:45- It still attracts visitors today.
0:13:45 > 0:13:49- The beat poet, Allen Ginsberg, - visited in 1967.
0:13:50 > 0:13:53- He wrote about the experience.
0:13:54 > 0:13:57- Iron Maiden - made a video here in 1988.
0:13:58 > 0:14:00- After 150 miles...
0:14:00 > 0:14:05- ..the last leg of my journey - along the Wales-England border...
0:14:05 > 0:14:09- ..takes me - from Tintern Abbey to Chepstow.
0:14:18 > 0:14:20- This is the end of the path.
0:14:24 > 0:14:28- The river is the border - between the two countries.
0:14:28 > 0:14:33- The town grew around - this splendid castle on a cliff.
0:14:33 > 0:14:35- To learn more about Chepstow...
0:14:35 > 0:14:41- ..I met up with Dr Glyn Jones, who - is an expert on this ancient town.
0:14:42 > 0:14:45- Dr Glyn, - you've bought me to the garden.
0:14:45 > 0:14:48- I can see a massive castle!
0:14:48 > 0:14:50- The castle gives the town its name.
0:14:50 > 0:14:53- The castle gives the town its name.- - Yes, this is Chepstow Castle.
0:14:53 > 0:14:56- The Welsh name comes - from Castle Of Gwent.
0:14:57 > 0:15:01- It's said Chepstow was named - after "ceap" and "stowe"...
0:15:01 > 0:15:03- ..meaning market place.
0:15:03 > 0:15:07- That takes us right back.
0:15:07 > 0:15:13- The Normans started to build - the stone castle in 1067...
0:15:14 > 0:15:17- ..a year after the Norman Conquest.
0:15:17 > 0:15:22- This is the oldest stone castle - in the country...
0:15:23 > 0:15:25- ..and it's in the garden!
0:15:25 > 0:15:27- Fantastic.
0:15:27 > 0:15:32- The country's largest port - was just around the corner.
0:15:32 > 0:15:35- They built ships.
0:15:35 > 0:15:40- All sorts of industry - took place there on the River Wye.
0:15:40 > 0:15:46- The river was important - to transport limestone...
0:15:46 > 0:15:50- ..to Avonmouth Docks...
0:15:50 > 0:15:54- ..on the River Severn.
0:15:54 > 0:15:57- What sort of town is Chepstow?
0:15:57 > 0:16:00- How does it feel to live here?
0:16:01 > 0:16:04- All I can say is, with this view...
0:16:05 > 0:16:08- ..living here - is a happy experience...
0:16:08 > 0:16:12- ..for my wife and I.
0:16:13 > 0:16:16- It's a lovely, pretty place to live.
0:16:16 > 0:16:20- There's a close-knit community.
0:16:20 > 0:16:23- The best thing about Chepstow...
0:16:24 > 0:16:28- ..is that it's quiet.
0:16:28 > 0:16:32- People commute from here.
0:16:34 > 0:16:35- TRADITIONAL MUSIC
0:16:37 > 0:16:41- There was nothing quiet - about Chepstow when I was there...
0:16:42 > 0:16:45- ..as I noticed - on my way to Dr Glyn's home.
0:16:46 > 0:16:50- What is the ceremony - we're going to see later?
0:16:51 > 0:16:55- It's a celebration - of the old Welsh Halloween.
0:16:55 > 0:16:59- All the Mari Lwyds - will be together...
0:16:59 > 0:17:04- ..with their teeth clattering.
0:17:04 > 0:17:07- We're on the border...
0:17:08 > 0:17:10- ..and we'll meet wassailers...
0:17:11 > 0:17:13- ..from Gloucester in England.
0:17:13 > 0:17:15- They meet on the bridge.
0:17:16 > 0:17:18- The England-Wales border...
0:17:19 > 0:17:22- ..is on the middle of the bridge.
0:17:23 > 0:17:25- The wassailers come...
0:17:26 > 0:17:31- ..to bless the next crop of apples.
0:17:32 > 0:17:34- Wassail!
0:17:36 > 0:17:40- In Old English, - wassail means "be well".
0:17:40 > 0:17:43- That's how wassailers - greet the apple trees...
0:17:44 > 0:17:46- ..so they grow next year.
0:17:47 > 0:17:50- They pour cider over the roots...
0:17:50 > 0:17:54- ..and hang toast soaked in cider - on the branches.
0:17:55 > 0:17:57- TRADITIONAL WASSAIL SONG
0:18:01 > 0:18:06- The next stage of the ceremony - doesn't happen until nightfall.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09- I seized the chance - to meet Ifor Cavill.
0:18:10 > 0:18:14- He is proud of his connection - to the town.
0:18:16 > 0:18:18- I'm a resident of Chepstow.
0:18:19 > 0:18:22- I was born and bred in the area.
0:18:22 > 0:18:26- I live here, too, - as did my father before me.
0:18:28 > 0:18:31- He wasn't brought up speaking Welsh.
0:18:32 > 0:18:35- He wasn't even sure - if he lived in Wales.
0:18:36 > 0:18:40- A long time ago, - my great aunt gave me a book...
0:18:40 > 0:18:44- ..A Book Of Wales.
0:18:44 > 0:18:47- I saw a photo of Monmouth.
0:18:49 > 0:18:51- That's the bridge.
0:18:51 > 0:18:54- Was Monmouth in Wales, I thought?
0:18:54 > 0:18:59- Suddenly, I realized - that I lived in Wales.
0:19:00 > 0:19:03- I decided to learn more.
0:19:03 > 0:19:08- Unfortunately, there was no Welsh - in Monmouth School For Boys.
0:19:09 > 0:19:13- There was no Welsh at all.
0:19:14 > 0:19:17- They were totally against it.
0:19:17 > 0:19:23- So I rebelled against the system.
0:19:25 > 0:19:28- I started to spell my name - with an "F".
0:19:28 > 0:19:34- It's a challenge - to defend the language in Chepstow.
0:19:34 > 0:19:39- On this map, - every main town and city...
0:19:39 > 0:19:42- ..are named in Welsh and English.
0:19:43 > 0:19:44- Newport - Casnewydd.
0:19:44 > 0:19:47- Newport - Casnewydd.- - Monmouth - Trefynwy...
0:19:47 > 0:19:49- ..and so on...
0:19:50 > 0:19:51- ..apart from Chepstow.
0:19:51 > 0:19:53- ..apart from Chepstow.- - Right.
0:19:53 > 0:19:57- Cas-gwent isn't on the map.
0:19:57 > 0:19:59- I complained to the government.
0:20:00 > 0:20:02- I phoned them.
0:20:02 > 0:20:06- They said, "Is Chepstow in Wales?"
0:20:07 > 0:20:11- It's a true story, - but with a happy ending.
0:20:11 > 0:20:14- In 2003...
0:20:14 > 0:20:18- ..Cas-gwent appeared.
0:20:19 > 0:20:23- Thanks to me!
0:20:24 > 0:20:25- That's excellent.
0:20:26 > 0:20:28- Thank you!
0:20:28 > 0:20:31- CHEERS
0:20:32 > 0:20:35- I left Ifor, the man - who put Cas-gwent on the map...
0:20:36 > 0:20:40- ..to rejoin the festivities - and learn more about Mari Lwyd.
0:20:40 > 0:20:42- Hey, Mari Lwyd, how are you?
0:20:42 > 0:20:44- Hey, Mari Lwyd, how are you?- - Very well, thanks.
0:20:45 > 0:20:49- The Mari Lwyd custom - almost died out 50 years ago.
0:20:50 > 0:20:53- It's gaining popularity nowadays.
0:20:54 > 0:20:58- Dr Glyn wanted me - to hear the traditional song...
0:20:59 > 0:21:02- ..that's sung - before the Mari Lwyd moves on.
0:21:03 > 0:21:07- Can you sing for us, please, - so Gareth can learn it?
0:21:07 > 0:21:11- # Here we come, gentle friends
0:21:11 > 0:21:15- # Here we come, gentle friends
0:21:16 > 0:21:18- # To ask may we have leave
0:21:18 > 0:21:20- # To ask may we have leave
0:21:20 > 0:21:24- # To ask may we have leave to sing #
0:21:24 > 0:21:26- Fantastic!
0:21:27 > 0:21:31- I feel a part - of an important Welsh tradition.
0:21:32 > 0:21:35- Thank you very much!
0:21:35 > 0:21:38- I love your beard. Brilliant!
0:21:45 > 0:21:49- The highlight of the day - was at night...
0:21:49 > 0:21:54- ..the meeting on the bridge - on the Wales-England border.
0:21:55 > 0:21:59- What better way to end my journey - along the border...
0:21:59 > 0:22:03- ..than at an event - where the Welsh and English...
0:22:03 > 0:22:06- ..literally come together?
0:22:06 > 0:22:11- What has my journey taught me - about the people of the borderlands?
0:22:11 > 0:22:14- On rugby or football days...
0:22:14 > 0:22:18- ..the difference - between the two countries...
0:22:18 > 0:22:21- ..is enthusiastically celebrated.
0:22:22 > 0:22:25- But as we see on Chepstow bridge...
0:22:26 > 0:22:28- ..there is a joint celebration, too.
0:22:29 > 0:22:33- The border can unite people - as well as divide them.
0:22:34 > 0:22:36- If we can respect our differences...
0:22:37 > 0:22:41- ..what better reason could there be - for celebrating together?
0:22:57 > 0:22:59- S4C Subtitles by Gwead
0:22:59 > 0:22:59- .