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0:00:00 > 0:00:03- This is a series - about typically Welsh towns...
0:00:03 > 0:00:06- ..of which Cardigan - is a fine example.
0:00:06 > 0:00:11- The inaugural National Eisteddfod - was held here in the 12th century.
0:00:11 > 0:00:16- In this programme, we'll trace the - history of the town and the area...
0:00:16 > 0:00:18- ..through its architecture.
0:00:18 > 0:00:21- Welcome to Y Dref Gymreig.
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0:00:42 > 0:00:45- In this programme, - the streets of Cardigan...
0:00:46 > 0:00:49- ..Small World Centre - and a Norman Castle.
0:00:50 > 0:00:53- A Georgian manor - on the outskirts of town...
0:00:53 > 0:00:56- ..a glimpse of the future - of Welsh homes...
0:00:56 > 0:00:59- ..and we meet the vet - at Penrallt Ddu.
0:00:59 > 0:01:03- Our journey begins in a warehouse - on the banks of River Teifi.
0:01:20 > 0:01:24- The aim of this new series called - Y Dref Gymreig...
0:01:25 > 0:01:29- ..is to focus on one town - and the surrounding area each week.
0:01:29 > 0:01:32- Our journey begins in Cardigan.
0:01:32 > 0:01:33- Our journey begins in Cardigan.- - Yes, my home town.
0:01:33 > 0:01:35- I love this place.
0:01:35 > 0:01:38- Every Welsh town - should be like this.
0:01:38 > 0:01:43- It has a castle, - a bridge, a river, small shops...
0:01:43 > 0:01:45- ..and a strong community.
0:01:45 > 0:01:49- Cardigan port was very important, - at one time.
0:01:53 > 0:01:56- Yes, especially - in the early 19th century.
0:01:56 > 0:02:01- Over 1,000 men worked - on the 300 ships registered here.
0:02:02 > 0:02:03- It was very busy.
0:02:04 > 0:02:08- Unfortunately, all that has gone - and it's now very quiet.
0:02:08 > 0:02:12- Gladys is its one remaining boat.
0:02:13 > 0:02:17- The only remnants of all that - activity are these warehouses.
0:02:17 > 0:02:21- And now is a great time - to look at this one...
0:02:21 > 0:02:24- ..as it's being converted - into flats.
0:02:24 > 0:02:27- There's early graffiti - on this original plaster.
0:02:28 > 0:02:33- One of the warehousemen scratched - pictures of ships in the plaster.
0:02:33 > 0:02:38- He saw all these ships at a time - when the port was busy and bustling.
0:02:39 > 0:02:42- The castle tells us - this is an ancient town.
0:02:51 > 0:02:54- Cardigan Castle - may look a bit sad these days...
0:02:55 > 0:03:00- ..but the council is raising funds - to restore the walls and building.
0:03:07 > 0:03:10- This castle has a varied - and fascinating history.
0:03:10 > 0:03:15- Yes, it was held by the Welsh, - then the Normans, Welsh again...
0:03:15 > 0:03:17- ..then held by the English.
0:03:17 > 0:03:21- It was privately owned - for most of the 20th century.
0:03:21 > 0:03:24- The county council - recently purchased it...
0:03:24 > 0:03:28- ..so it's back in the hands - of the people of Cardigan, at last.
0:03:29 > 0:03:33- Lord Rhys ap Gruffydd - had strong links with this castle.
0:03:34 > 0:03:37- Yes, the first - National Eisteddfod was held here.
0:03:38 > 0:03:39- It's an important building.
0:03:40 > 0:03:43- What happened after medieval times?
0:03:43 > 0:03:46- The castle - has gone through major changes...
0:03:46 > 0:03:50- ..especially - within the castle walls.
0:03:50 > 0:03:55- This area was landscaped as a - private garden in the 19th century.
0:03:55 > 0:03:58- This villa was built - in the early 19th century...
0:03:59 > 0:04:01- ..right in the castle's centre.
0:04:01 > 0:04:03- Is it a remarkable building?
0:04:03 > 0:04:05- Is it a remarkable building?- - It's certainly interesting.
0:04:05 > 0:04:09- At the rear you can see - where the old castle towers stood.
0:04:09 > 0:04:13- This Georgian villa stands - in front of the old towers.
0:04:13 > 0:04:17- It's covered in scaffold - and it's in poor condition.
0:04:17 > 0:04:21- To see a Georgian villa - that's in good condition...
0:04:21 > 0:04:23- ..on we go to the next location.
0:04:38 > 0:04:43- We've travelled a few miles - out of Cardigan to Llangoedmor...
0:04:43 > 0:04:44- ..to Plas Treforgan.
0:04:45 > 0:04:47- Tell me about this manor house.
0:04:47 > 0:04:49- It was built circa 1800.
0:04:50 > 0:04:53- It's an elegant house - with perfect proportions.
0:04:53 > 0:04:57- It was built for a solicitor - called Evan Davies.
0:04:57 > 0:05:00- He came into money - through marriage...
0:05:01 > 0:05:05- ..and they decided to build - this Regency style manor.
0:05:05 > 0:05:09- You can see that - in the lovely bay windows behind us.
0:05:09 > 0:05:14- It's said this house was designed - by John Nash, the famous architect.
0:05:15 > 0:05:17- Is there any truth in that?
0:05:18 > 0:05:22- The Listing says this is a house - "inspired" by Nash.
0:05:24 > 0:05:25- I'm not sure about that.
0:05:25 > 0:05:30- John Nash was working locally - when this was built, circa 1800.
0:05:31 > 0:05:36- This was his style and some of - the details inside are totally Nash.
0:05:36 > 0:05:38- I think it is a Nash house.
0:05:39 > 0:05:43- It looks a bit primitive but that - may be because it's lost its render.
0:05:44 > 0:05:46- I think Nash designed this.
0:05:46 > 0:05:50- The lack of render allows us - to see the stone beneath.
0:05:50 > 0:05:54- Rendered walls would blend better - with those pillars.
0:05:54 > 0:05:58- Yes, especially at the front - where there's a wonderful porch.
0:05:58 > 0:06:01- It's a classic design with columns.
0:06:01 > 0:06:05- This top class Georgian work - seems out of place...
0:06:05 > 0:06:09- ..next to the primitive work - on the Cilgerran stone.
0:06:09 > 0:06:13- The eaves are very deep, - in typical Nash style.
0:06:15 > 0:06:20- In Georgian times, the depth - of the eaves reflected one's status.
0:06:20 > 0:06:24- Deep eaves suggested - the family had deep pockets.
0:06:25 > 0:06:28- Is the same thing true of the bays?
0:06:28 > 0:06:32- Yes. Bays became popular - in the early 19th century.
0:06:33 > 0:06:35- They're seen all over Brighton.
0:06:56 > 0:06:58- As soon as you enter the house...
0:06:59 > 0:07:04- ..there's evidence that it's Nash's - work or has been inspired by Nash.
0:07:04 > 0:07:08- The floor plan is exactly the same - as Llanerchaeron.
0:07:09 > 0:07:13- The multi-arched hall is similar - to the features of Llanerchaeron.
0:07:13 > 0:07:18- Yes, there's magnificent plaster - work in both houses.
0:07:19 > 0:07:20- It's top quality work.
0:07:21 > 0:07:22- It isn't ostentatious.
0:07:22 > 0:07:26- It's elegant, just like - the cantilevered staircase.
0:07:27 > 0:07:30- That staircase - is a feat of engineering.
0:07:30 > 0:07:32- Look at the balusters.
0:07:32 > 0:07:35- They're simple and extremely thin.
0:07:35 > 0:07:39- Simple and plain design was - the early 19th century fashion.
0:08:31 > 0:08:36- As we know, this house was built - in the early 19th century...
0:08:36 > 0:08:40- ..but the contents of this room - comes from the Victorian age.
0:08:41 > 0:08:44- Yes, its present owners - adore the country house style.
0:08:45 > 0:08:49- Their fantastic collection - of china and furniture...
0:08:49 > 0:08:50- ..is on display here.
0:08:51 > 0:08:55- They also own Georgian pieces, - such as this lovely table.
0:08:55 > 0:08:58- This room has some great features...
0:08:58 > 0:09:03- ..including a lovely fireplace and - great cornice work on the ceiling.
0:09:03 > 0:09:07- This early eastern wallpaper - is very striking.
0:09:08 > 0:09:10- Was it hand painted or blocked?
0:09:10 > 0:09:13- If you look closely, - you see it's blocked.
0:09:13 > 0:09:16- It must have been expensive.
0:09:16 > 0:09:19- It's hard to tell if it was - made in China or in Japan.
0:09:20 > 0:09:24- It looks Japanese to me but - it may have been made in Britain.
0:09:25 > 0:09:27- The shape of this room is lovely.
0:09:27 > 0:09:28- The shape of this room is lovely.- - Yes.
0:09:29 > 0:09:34- It must be wonderful to dine at this - table and look out at the garden.
0:09:34 > 0:09:38- Before those trees grew, there was - a view of Cardigan from here.
0:09:39 > 0:09:44- The beautiful scenery is reflected - in the table's polished surface.
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0:10:14 > 0:10:17- Welcome back to Y Dref Gymreig.
0:10:18 > 0:10:22- We'll now focus on more recent - architectural gems of Cardigan.
0:10:22 > 0:10:25- Our journey - along High Street continues.
0:10:26 > 0:10:31- It was designed in medieval times - but the buildings didn't survive.
0:10:31 > 0:10:36- What we have here is architecture - from the 18th century onwards.
0:10:36 > 0:10:39- The Black Lion Hotel - was built in 1780.
0:10:39 > 0:10:43- It's an example - of the early use of bricks.
0:10:43 > 0:10:46- A recent restoration grant scheme...
0:10:47 > 0:10:50- ..has transformed windows - and shop fronts.
0:10:54 > 0:10:57- When I think of Cardigan, - I think of this.
0:10:57 > 0:11:01- Not the castle or the bridge - but this building.
0:11:01 > 0:11:04- It's the building that typifies - the town's characteristics.
0:11:05 > 0:11:09- Yes, the Guildhall and - the market below is fantastic.
0:11:09 > 0:11:14- It's an example of the - Gothic revival inspired by Ruskin.
0:11:14 > 0:11:16- It was built in the 1850s.
0:11:17 > 0:11:19- It's now being renovated.
0:11:21 > 0:11:25- Opposite is an example of the - brickwork which was popular here.
0:11:26 > 0:11:28- From what period does that date?
0:11:28 > 0:11:30- From the late 19th century.
0:11:31 > 0:11:35- There was a brick producing factory - in Cardigan.
0:11:35 > 0:11:39- You see them in Newcastle Emlyn - and in Cardigan town itself.
0:11:39 > 0:11:43- A lot of those Cardigan Bricks - were produced.
0:11:43 > 0:11:46- It's a pretty, - relatively soft brick.
0:11:46 > 0:11:49- You see it - in several High Street buildings.
0:11:50 > 0:11:53- Those bricks - are synonymous with Cardigan...
0:11:53 > 0:11:59- ..as is the building technique - of having thick and thin layers.
0:12:00 > 0:12:02- It's really decorative.
0:12:02 > 0:12:06- Yes, it's a characteristic feature - of Cardigan.
0:12:06 > 0:12:11- Mixing different coloured stones - is also typical of Cardigan...
0:12:11 > 0:12:14- ..and so is that sort of front door.
0:12:15 > 0:12:19- Cardigan is a small town - but it's bursting with character.
0:12:29 > 0:12:32- I was born upstairs here.
0:12:33 > 0:12:37- Sister Griffiths refused - to let anyone consume alcohol.
0:12:37 > 0:12:40- She was the teetotal midwife - who delivered me.
0:12:40 > 0:12:43- Three vets lived here at that time.
0:12:43 > 0:12:48- Apparently, they got a bottle of - Black Label whisky from somewhere...
0:12:48 > 0:12:51- ..and they drank it out of jam jars!
0:12:51 > 0:12:54- That's what happened - on the night of my birth!
0:13:00 > 0:13:04- Richard Thomas, or Dic y Vet, - and Elizabeth, his wife...
0:13:04 > 0:13:06- ..live in Penrallt Ddu.
0:13:06 > 0:13:10- Dic followed his father - into the veterinary world.
0:13:10 > 0:13:15- The family home functioned - as a vet's surgery for a time.
0:13:16 > 0:13:19- You've always lived in Cardigan.
0:13:19 > 0:13:23- You must have seen huge changes - during that period.
0:13:23 > 0:13:26- Yes, Cardigan and the whole area - have changed.
0:13:26 > 0:13:30- Cardigan has relied entirely - on agriculture.
0:13:30 > 0:13:32- As agriculture changes...
0:13:32 > 0:13:35- ..so the character - of Cardigan changes.
0:13:36 > 0:13:39- Farmers were the backbone - of Cardigan.
0:13:39 > 0:13:42- If they flourished, - Cardigan flourished.
0:13:52 > 0:13:55- We've moved on - a couple of centuries.
0:13:55 > 0:13:58- What is the history of Penrallt Ddu?
0:13:58 > 0:14:01- It was built - at the turn of the 20th century.
0:14:01 > 0:14:05- Most of the houses in Cardigan - were built around that time.
0:14:05 > 0:14:10- Cardigan was developing as a - market town rather than a port town.
0:14:11 > 0:14:15- It was built for a solicitor, - as was Treforgan...
0:14:15 > 0:14:20- ..but this was built a century later - and the style is vastly different.
0:14:21 > 0:14:25- We associate render such as this - with the 1950s and 1960s.
0:14:25 > 0:14:30- Roughcast render was used - in Georgian times...
0:14:31 > 0:14:33- ..with lime rather than cement.
0:14:34 > 0:14:37- The original wooden columns - were replaced...
0:14:38 > 0:14:41- ..but everything else is original.
0:14:43 > 0:14:45- I love the arches above the doors.
0:14:46 > 0:14:50- These would have been ordered - from a catalogue...
0:14:50 > 0:14:55- ..and delivered by train from - London, Liverpool or Birmingham.
0:15:15 > 0:15:18- There are two staircases - in this house.
0:15:18 > 0:15:20- That suggests there were maids.
0:15:20 > 0:15:22- Yes, that's true.
0:15:22 > 0:15:25- There were maids and a gardener.
0:15:26 > 0:15:30- My father pioneered - artificial insemination...
0:15:30 > 0:15:34- ..and it all started - in his laboratory outside.
0:15:35 > 0:15:38- They collected - from two or three bulls...
0:15:38 > 0:15:41- ..and Jac y Crown - did the inseminating.
0:15:41 > 0:15:44- We kept five Jersey - milking cattle here.
0:15:44 > 0:15:49- We sold milk, buttermilk and butter.
0:15:54 > 0:15:56- The vet was part of the community.
0:16:22 > 0:16:27- The longer you stand here, the more - you see where the money was spent.
0:16:27 > 0:16:31- This kink serves no purpose - but it's wonderful.
0:16:31 > 0:16:35- People spent money on - the reception areas of the house.
0:16:36 > 0:16:40- We now spend money on kitchen units - and bathroom fittings.
0:16:40 > 0:16:44- In other words, we spend money - on the house's private areas.
0:16:46 > 0:16:50- The fireplaces, the doors - and the stairs took precedence...
0:16:50 > 0:16:53- ..as those were the areas - visitors would see.
0:16:54 > 0:16:58- This is the heart of the public area - of the vet's house.
0:16:59 > 0:17:02- What are the rooms - around the staircase?
0:17:02 > 0:17:04- The house was built for a solicitor.
0:17:05 > 0:17:09- The solicitor and probably the vets - used this room as an office.
0:17:09 > 0:17:14- Behind there, in the service area, - was the vet's dispensary.
0:17:14 > 0:17:16- Those are the original cupboards.
0:17:16 > 0:17:21- These were private family rooms - - the drawing room and the parlour.
0:17:31 > 0:17:33- This house is part of my life.
0:17:34 > 0:17:39- It's only bricks and mortar - and it isn't a pretty house...
0:17:39 > 0:17:41- ..but I'm a part of this house.
0:17:41 > 0:17:46- I've lived here all my life - and it's a very homely house.
0:18:23 > 0:18:27- This is Small World Centre, - Cardigan's newest building.
0:18:28 > 0:18:30- It's so new, it isn't finished!
0:18:30 > 0:18:34- It's good to see it before they add - the finishing touches.
0:18:34 > 0:18:38- The community wanted to create - something sustainable.
0:18:39 > 0:18:42- We can see - just how sustainable it really is.
0:18:42 > 0:18:45- You can see the lime render here.
0:18:46 > 0:18:49- You can see willow wattle walls...
0:18:49 > 0:18:51- ..and the sedum roof.
0:18:52 > 0:18:56- This is the time to see - this building's eco credentials.
0:18:56 > 0:18:59- What are those eco credentials?
0:18:59 > 0:19:01- What are those eco credentials?- - There's something everywhere.
0:19:01 > 0:19:06- Everyone who worked on this building - lives within 20 miles of Cardigan.
0:19:06 > 0:19:08- That's fantastic.
0:19:09 > 0:19:13- Many people buy green goods - sourced from far away.
0:19:13 > 0:19:18- Here, not only are the materials - local but the workers are too.
0:19:19 > 0:19:20- It looks a bit like a pagoda.
0:19:20 > 0:19:21- It looks a bit like a pagoda.- - Yes. It's lovely.
0:19:22 > 0:19:24- It's one huge space inside.
0:19:24 > 0:19:26- It's a theatre.
0:19:26 > 0:19:29- The arts scene in Cardigan - is vibrant.
0:19:29 > 0:19:33- This is Small World Centre - and Theatr Mwldan is next to it.
0:19:33 > 0:19:38- The old slaughterhouse nearby has - been converted into creative units.
0:19:39 > 0:19:43- It's only a small town - of something like 3,000 people....
0:19:43 > 0:19:45- ..but it's a lively place.
0:19:46 > 0:19:50- Do buildings such as this - inspire people to build homes...
0:19:50 > 0:19:52- ..which are more sustainable?
0:19:53 > 0:19:54- Yes, it certainly does.
0:19:54 > 0:19:59- Next, we'll see a new house built - using green materials and ideas.
0:20:23 > 0:20:26- We've reached the estuary - of River Teifi.
0:20:27 > 0:20:31- Yes, we've travelled - two miles from the town.
0:20:31 > 0:20:35- Pembrokeshire is across there - and this is Ceredigion.
0:20:35 > 0:20:38- We're here - to see this wonderful house.
0:20:39 > 0:20:42- Ceredigion - is famous for its bungalows.
0:20:43 > 0:20:47- This is almost a single-storey house - but it's a contemporary gem.
0:20:48 > 0:20:50- Yes. - It's in a stunning location too.
0:20:50 > 0:20:55- It's raised on stilts, which gives - you a great view of the estuary.
0:20:55 > 0:21:01- Ceredigion planning department has a - reputation for being conservative.
0:21:01 > 0:21:06- People don't think they can - build something modern like this.
0:21:06 > 0:21:10- One of the reasons planning - permission was granted here...
0:21:10 > 0:21:13- ..is it's a very sustainable design.
0:21:23 > 0:21:26- In addition to - sustainable building materials....
0:21:27 > 0:21:30- ..Nant Saeson uses - sustainable fuel - wood pellets.
0:21:31 > 0:21:35- Rainwater is collected from the roof - and used in the toilets.
0:21:35 > 0:21:39- Insulation is provided - by waste newsprint fibre.
0:21:56 > 0:21:58- Isn't this a magnificent room?
0:21:59 > 0:22:02- You see why Dai and his wife - wanted to build a home here.
0:22:03 > 0:22:06- You also see - why they wanted it to be elevated.
0:22:06 > 0:22:09- This is one of the best views - in Ceredigion.
0:22:10 > 0:22:12- Yes, it's a wonderful canvas.
0:22:13 > 0:22:16- This must be - the only house on this road...
0:22:16 > 0:22:20- ..from which you can see - along the river, down to the sea.
0:22:21 > 0:22:23- The floor plan is very simple.
0:22:23 > 0:22:24- It's open plan.
0:22:25 > 0:22:29- There's a kitchen, - a dining area and a lounge.
0:22:29 > 0:22:33- They dropped the level - to create a private lounge area.
0:22:33 > 0:22:34- I think that's great.
0:22:35 > 0:22:37- It reminds me of 1970s designs.
0:22:38 > 0:22:39- Yes, it's sunken almost.
0:22:40 > 0:22:43- The structure of the house - you see outside...
0:22:43 > 0:22:47- ..is part of the beauty of the house - on the inside.
0:22:47 > 0:22:50- The wood - adds to the warmth of the house.
0:22:50 > 0:22:54- The wood adds to the sustainability - of the house.
0:22:54 > 0:22:59- The pine comes from forests - where they replant trees constantly.
0:22:59 > 0:23:02- All the oak you see in the house...
0:23:02 > 0:23:06- ..came from one huge oak tree which - had to be felled after a storm.
0:23:07 > 0:23:10- Even in the midst - of all this modernism...
0:23:10 > 0:23:16- ..there will come a point during the - Welsh summer when it's too hot here.
0:23:18 > 0:23:20- Yes but they've got that covered!
0:23:20 > 0:23:22- Look - I have a toy!
0:23:22 > 0:23:25- This is the remote control - for the blinds.
0:23:25 > 0:23:27- There's a blind on every window.
0:23:28 > 0:23:33- It's possible to have privacy even - in a house which has so much glass.
0:23:34 > 0:23:35- It's very James Bond.
0:23:36 > 0:23:37- Shaken not stirred, Greg!
0:24:37 > 0:24:39- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:24:39 > 0:24:40- .