Dolgellau

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0:00:00 > 0:00:04- I can think of no town - in a better location than Dolgellau.

0:00:04 > 0:00:08- It nestles in the valley - below some wonderful mountains.

0:00:08 > 0:00:13- In this programme, we'll look at - the way its buildings...

0:00:13 > 0:00:16- ..reflect local tradition - and history.

0:00:16 > 0:00:18- Welcome to Y Dref Gymreig.

0:00:25 > 0:00:27- 888

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0:00:39 > 0:00:41- Dolgellau is a record in stone.

0:00:42 > 0:00:44- From T H Roberts...

0:00:44 > 0:00:48- ..to the Apollo, a small pavilion - hiding a big treasure.

0:00:48 > 0:00:53- We'll see a townhouse - in magnificent, Victorian gardens...

0:00:53 > 0:00:57- ..and an impressive hall - nestling beneath Cader Idris.

0:00:59 > 0:01:04- I can't imagine a better - starting point for this programme...

0:01:04 > 0:01:07- ..than the church tower, - in the centre of town.

0:01:08 > 0:01:12- We can look down at everyone, - except the gentry houses up there.

0:01:13 > 0:01:14- This is a very Welsh town.

0:01:15 > 0:01:20- It's below a mountain, and there - are stone buildings everywhere.

0:01:20 > 0:01:24- Local dolerite stone - is used in almost every building.

0:01:25 > 0:01:30- This is a handsome town. - And I mean handsome, not pretty.

0:01:34 > 0:01:37- Are there many listed buildings?

0:01:37 > 0:01:39- Are there many listed buildings?- - Yes, over 200 of them are listed.

0:01:40 > 0:01:42- We're in Snowdonia National Park...

0:01:43 > 0:01:46- ..so the town's character - can never be changed.

0:02:03 > 0:02:06- This house - is really close to the cemetery.

0:02:06 > 0:02:09- Is it linked to the church - in some way?

0:02:09 > 0:02:11- This path leads to the graveyard.

0:02:12 > 0:02:15- The house is called - Tan y Fynwent (Below the Graveyard).

0:02:16 > 0:02:18- It's older than the present church.

0:02:19 > 0:02:23- It's one of Dolgellau's - oldest buildings, as we can see.

0:02:23 > 0:02:25- There are clues about its age here.

0:02:26 > 0:02:32- The stone dormers are significant, - as is the rough stonework.

0:02:32 > 0:02:36- More recent, Victorian buildings, - have smooth stones.

0:02:46 > 0:02:50- It's a Victorian porch, but you - can see it isn't a Victorian house.

0:02:51 > 0:02:55- This 17th-century house - has some interesting plasterwork.

0:02:55 > 0:02:58- It's quite primitive, - and I'm very fond of it.

0:02:59 > 0:03:02- This oak door - dates back to the same period.

0:03:02 > 0:03:05- This is called Bolection moulding...

0:03:05 > 0:03:09- ..and it was fashionable - in the late 17th century.

0:03:10 > 0:03:13- The staircase is remarkable.

0:03:23 > 0:03:26- This is an early 18th-century - oak staircase.

0:03:27 > 0:03:29- It stretches over three floors.

0:03:33 > 0:03:36- There are - three types of baluster here.

0:03:36 > 0:03:40- These are splat balusters.

0:03:41 > 0:03:45- This is the most primitive - and the cheapest of the three types.

0:03:45 > 0:03:47- It's a late 17th-century design.

0:03:48 > 0:03:50- There are turned balusters...

0:03:50 > 0:03:54- ..and some fancy balusters at - the bottom, where the family lived.

0:03:55 > 0:03:57- This banister is wonderful.

0:03:57 > 0:04:00- This banister is wonderful.- - Yes, the craftsmanship is very good.

0:04:00 > 0:04:04- It's a wide staircase - made of oak, from top to bottom.

0:04:07 > 0:04:08- What's next, Greg?

0:04:08 > 0:04:12- We go from a 17th-century house - to a 17th-century bridge.

0:04:12 > 0:04:14- Have you seen Minti?

0:04:30 > 0:04:35- Centuries ago, this must have been - Dolgellau's most important feature.

0:04:36 > 0:04:40- This bridge made it possible - for people to cross the river.

0:04:40 > 0:04:44- Yes, this 17th-century bridge - was widened in the 19th century.

0:04:44 > 0:04:49- The top section was also rebuilt - after the Great Flood of 1903.

0:04:51 > 0:04:55- The top end was extended - to accommodate the railway...

0:04:56 > 0:04:59- ..which was - where the main road lies today.

0:04:59 > 0:05:05- It must have attracted visitors here - to see this untamed countryside.

0:05:05 > 0:05:09- Yes. Tourism began to flourish - in the 1930s and the 1940s.

0:05:11 > 0:05:15- It only took five hours to get - to London from here in the 1930s.

0:05:15 > 0:05:20- It would take five hours - to drive to London from here today.

0:05:20 > 0:05:24- We can see some of the town's - best buildings from here.

0:05:25 > 0:05:27- The Magistrates Court - is very striking.

0:05:28 > 0:05:31- It was built by architect, - Edward Haycock...

0:05:32 > 0:05:35- ..for 3,000 which was - a huge sum of money back then.

0:05:36 > 0:05:41- This was designed by an architect, - and it's an outstanding building.

0:05:41 > 0:05:44- It's quite different from - the other buildings in the town.

0:05:45 > 0:05:49- The best way to see Dolgellau - and its narrow streets is on foot.

0:05:50 > 0:05:51- Minti is ready to go.

0:06:08 > 0:06:12- Here we are in Eldon Square - in the centre of the town.

0:06:12 > 0:06:15- It's the focal point of Dolgellau.

0:06:15 > 0:06:18- Yes, it's the heart of the town.

0:06:18 > 0:06:20- All the shops are here.

0:06:21 > 0:06:25- We can see the town's history - through its buildings.

0:06:26 > 0:06:31- The white building with the bays - is the square's oldest building.

0:06:32 > 0:06:35- I'm fond of Eldon Row - which was built in 1830.

0:06:36 > 0:06:38- Neuadd Idris is the main building.

0:06:38 > 0:06:42- It was originally built - as a market hall in 1870.

0:06:42 > 0:06:46- It was open on the ground floor, - but it's now full of shops.

0:06:47 > 0:06:50- There are assembly rooms - above the shops.

0:06:52 > 0:06:54- It's as busy as it's always been.

0:06:55 > 0:06:57- Yes, there's heavy traffic here.

0:06:57 > 0:07:01- I think the traffic - causes problems in Dolgellau.

0:07:01 > 0:07:06- The street patterns are complicated, - and there's nowhere to park.

0:07:06 > 0:07:08- It's a common problem.

0:07:19 > 0:07:23- Here we are, - in a street called Wtra'r Felin.

0:07:23 > 0:07:26- Wtra means narrow lane - and Felin means mill.

0:07:26 > 0:07:29- This narrow lane leads to the mill.

0:07:29 > 0:07:32- This is the town's industrial area.

0:07:32 > 0:07:35- There were several - woollen mills here.

0:07:35 > 0:07:40- Dolgellau's wealth was generated by - the wool and leather industries.

0:07:40 > 0:07:43- There were several tanneries here.

0:07:44 > 0:07:49- The mills must have been very noisy, - and the tanneries were very smelly.

0:07:50 > 0:07:53- The tanneries used water - from the river, down there.

0:07:54 > 0:07:58- The evidence - of this town's industrial past...

0:07:58 > 0:08:02- ..lies in old mill buildings - and warehouses, like this one.

0:08:02 > 0:08:06- There are doors on each floor - and a roof for the winch.

0:08:07 > 0:08:10- Dolgellau has several - mill buildings.

0:08:10 > 0:08:12- The word Wtra is fascinating.

0:08:13 > 0:08:17- There are several examples - of roads called Wtra in Dolgellau.

0:08:17 > 0:08:22- The word Wtra comes from an English - word from the Shropshire area.

0:08:22 > 0:08:26- People in Shropshire - use the word out-tracks.

0:08:26 > 0:08:30- Dolgellau people probably - did business with Shropshire people.

0:08:31 > 0:08:35- Out-tracks filtered - across the border and became Wtra.

0:08:49 > 0:08:51- On we go to the T H Roberts shop.

0:08:52 > 0:08:55- This once thriving ironmongery - is now a coffee shop.

0:09:35 > 0:09:36- Thank you.

0:09:36 > 0:09:38- Thank you very much.

0:09:38 > 0:09:40- Tell me about T H Roberts.

0:09:40 > 0:09:42- It's an old shop, of course.

0:09:42 > 0:09:46- They sold all sorts of things - in this hardware store.

0:09:46 > 0:09:51- It was built in 1886, at a time when - the gold rush was on in Dolgellau.

0:09:51 > 0:09:55- There were over 500 gold miners - working in the area...

0:09:55 > 0:09:58- ..and they needed shops like this.

0:09:58 > 0:10:00- T H Roberts sold everything...

0:10:00 > 0:10:04- ..from gunpowder to paraffin - to picks and shovels.

0:10:05 > 0:10:08- It's good - to see everything still intact.

0:10:08 > 0:10:11- The old shelves - and the old counter are here.

0:10:12 > 0:10:17- The wood has been stripped, which - wasn't the fashion in the 1880s.

0:10:17 > 0:10:20- Apart from that, it looks authentic.

0:10:21 > 0:10:26- It lends itself well to a cafe. - No huge changes were necessary.

0:10:27 > 0:10:28- That's the old office.

0:10:29 > 0:10:31- The mahogany is beautiful.

0:10:31 > 0:10:35- Local legend has it - that the glass and mahogany box...

0:10:35 > 0:10:37- ..came from an old ship.

0:10:37 > 0:10:39- I'm not convinced about that.

0:10:40 > 0:10:44- It looks like it was made in 1886 - when the shop opened.

0:10:44 > 0:10:46- Anyway, it's a nice story!

0:10:46 > 0:10:50- I take it the interior - of this building is listed.

0:10:50 > 0:10:53- Nothing's changed - since it was a shop.

0:10:53 > 0:10:55- Yes, it was listed quite recently.

0:10:56 > 0:10:58- No-one can alter it in any way.

0:11:02 > 0:11:06- Many treasures lie - on the narrow streets of Dolgellau.

0:11:06 > 0:11:08- This is a very unusual 1960s gem.

0:11:12 > 0:11:16- This is one of the most - remarkable buildings in Dolgellau.

0:11:16 > 0:11:18- It's a Catholic church.

0:11:18 > 0:11:22- Yes, and it's the newest - of the buildings we've seen here.

0:11:22 > 0:11:25- This lovely building - only dates back to 1966...

0:11:26 > 0:11:29- ..but it looks traditional, - in many ways.

0:11:30 > 0:11:33- It's a copy of Romanesque designs.

0:11:33 > 0:11:36- Tell me about the crucifix - above the door.

0:11:37 > 0:11:41- It's the work of an Italian sculptor - called Castiglione.

0:11:42 > 0:11:45- It's said he did some work - at St Peter's in Rome...

0:11:45 > 0:11:50- ..and he made the bronze doors - for the front of Milan Cathedral.

0:11:51 > 0:11:56- It's interesting because it was the - personal project of a local priest.

0:11:56 > 0:11:59- His name - was Father Francis Scalpell.

0:11:59 > 0:12:05- He believed Catholics in Dolgellau - deserved a nobler church building...

0:12:05 > 0:12:07- ..than a former chip shop.

0:12:07 > 0:12:12- He made it his personal project to - raise funds to build a real church.

0:12:21 > 0:12:23- It's a really powerful design.

0:12:23 > 0:12:27- Yes, I'm really fond of the design, - especially the columns.

0:12:28 > 0:12:32- It reminds me of the work - of Clough Williams-Ellis.

0:12:32 > 0:12:34- Clough came from the same area...

0:12:34 > 0:12:38- ..and he used the same stone - and the same styles.

0:12:38 > 0:12:41- Clough liked the Norman styles - we see here.

0:12:41 > 0:12:45- The openings in the columns, - called squints...

0:12:45 > 0:12:47- ..are lovely details.

0:12:47 > 0:12:50- This is a solid, cave-like design.

0:12:50 > 0:12:54- Yes, and it was designed by - local architect, Maurice Pritchard.

0:12:55 > 0:12:57- The builders were also local.

0:12:57 > 0:13:03- We also know that Father Scalpell - had a hand in the design process.

0:13:04 > 0:13:08- He designed the chandeliers, - for example.

0:13:15 > 0:13:20- They struck the right balance - between traditional columns...

0:13:20 > 0:13:24- ..and modern, 1960s items - such as the pews and the windows.

0:13:25 > 0:13:27- Yes, they're really pretty.

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0:14:11 > 0:14:14- We're a mile - from the centre of Dolgellau.

0:14:14 > 0:14:16- What's the history of Dol Rhyd?

0:14:17 > 0:14:20- Dol Rhyd mansion - was built for the Vaughan family.

0:14:21 > 0:14:24- We're not here - to look inside the mansion...

0:14:24 > 0:14:26- ..because it's been modernized.

0:14:27 > 0:14:31- We're here to see a small building - with a very Welsh history.

0:14:41 > 0:14:43- Look up there!

0:14:43 > 0:14:46- It's one of Dolgellau's hidden gems.

0:14:47 > 0:14:49- It's a remarkably detailed design.

0:14:49 > 0:14:53- I may be guilty of overusing - the words top quality...

0:14:54 > 0:14:59- ..but this really is top quality, - 18th-century plasterwork.

0:15:00 > 0:15:02- I can see many cultural symbols.

0:15:03 > 0:15:06- This building - was erected by William Vaughan.

0:15:06 > 0:15:08- He was an interesting man.

0:15:10 > 0:15:13- He was President - of the cultural body...

0:15:13 > 0:15:16- ..the Honourable Society - of Cymmrodorion.

0:15:17 > 0:15:20- He built this for its meetings - in 1763.

0:15:20 > 0:15:24- The symbols represent - the society's cultural passion.

0:15:24 > 0:15:27- This celebrates all things Welsh.

0:15:27 > 0:15:29- Yes, I can see some pan pipes.

0:15:31 > 0:15:35- You could look at it all day long - and still find something new.

0:16:11 > 0:16:14- On we go to a substantial townhouse.

0:16:14 > 0:16:19- Built for the Griffiths family, - it stands in a fine two-acre garden.

0:16:25 > 0:16:30- We're above Dolgellau, looking at - lovely views above the rooftops.

0:16:31 > 0:16:35- The house behind us seems to date - from two different periods.

0:16:35 > 0:16:38- Yes, we're looking at - a Victorian house...

0:16:38 > 0:16:43- ..but the middle section - is an old, early 19th-century villa.

0:16:47 > 0:16:49- The building - which is now a garage...

0:16:50 > 0:16:55- ..is an old, wooden hut which was - used as a private Sunday school.

0:16:55 > 0:16:58- We know that - Bible classes were held here.

0:16:58 > 0:17:04- Dolgellau has links with the Quakers - dating back to the 17th century.

0:17:08 > 0:17:13- The Griffiths family spent money on - this wing of the house in the 1870s.

0:17:14 > 0:17:17- It's interesting - because this was the service wing.

0:17:18 > 0:17:21- They employed a cook - and a couple of maids.

0:17:22 > 0:17:26- The date is carved into - this lovely, slate fireplace.

0:17:27 > 0:17:31- This serving hatch - leads into the dining room...

0:17:31 > 0:17:35- ..which is - on the other side of this wall.

0:17:52 > 0:17:56- Craig y Ffynnon's main feature - is its stunning gardens...

0:17:57 > 0:17:59- ..which keep its owners very busy.

0:17:59 > 0:18:03- I can see why - you don't work full-time, Shan!

0:18:03 > 0:18:05- There's always work to be done here.

0:18:05 > 0:18:09- Has the garden been - a burden or a pleasure for you?

0:18:09 > 0:18:11- It's been a real pleasure.

0:18:11 > 0:18:16- We've raised three children here, - and we both work hard on the garden.

0:18:16 > 0:18:20- There's a highly unusual - collection of plants here.

0:18:20 > 0:18:25- Yes, and we think most of them were - brought here in Victorian times...

0:18:25 > 0:18:30- ..when people went to foreign lands - to gather plants and seeds.

0:18:31 > 0:18:33- You've added to the collection.

0:18:34 > 0:18:38- Yes, but we tried to keep - the garden's Victorian character.

0:18:40 > 0:18:44- We worked with the paths and - the walls which were already here.

0:18:45 > 0:18:49- I hear you and your family - climbed one of these trees!

0:18:50 > 0:18:53- Yes, we climbed the tallest tree - in the year 2000.

0:18:54 > 0:18:56- It's a coastal redwood.

0:18:57 > 0:19:03- It's an unusual experience to climb - a tree and see the view from there.

0:19:04 > 0:19:06- Weren't you scared?

0:19:07 > 0:19:09- No, we were totally safe!

0:19:42 > 0:19:44- From one garden...

0:19:44 > 0:19:49- ..to another garden which is almost - the size of Merionethshire!

0:19:49 > 0:19:52- Yes, and people did think of it - as a garden.

0:19:52 > 0:19:55- The waterfalls around here - are spectacular.

0:19:56 > 0:20:01- The Richards family of Caerynwch, - the local mansion, developed it...

0:20:01 > 0:20:05- ..and came to think of it - as its personal garden.

0:20:06 > 0:20:08- The paths and the bridge...

0:20:09 > 0:20:13- ..are designed to make the most of - this fantastic landscape.

0:20:14 > 0:20:17- Was the aim - to create something natural?

0:20:18 > 0:20:23- Yes. We're talking about the - Picturesque period around 1800.

0:20:24 > 0:20:29- You couldn't travel abroad because - of wars and problems in France...

0:20:29 > 0:20:33- ..so wealthy people holidayed here - in Great Britain.

0:20:34 > 0:20:37- Many people came here - to enjoy the romance...

0:20:39 > 0:20:41- ..and to taste the danger - posed by nature.

0:20:42 > 0:20:44- You can feel it here, - above the water.

0:20:44 > 0:20:47- If you were rich - and well-connected...

0:20:47 > 0:20:52- ..you came to stay with - the Richards family at Caerynwch.

0:20:56 > 0:21:00- Two mansions were built - on Caerynwch Estate land.

0:21:00 > 0:21:04- The first - dates back to late medieval times.

0:21:04 > 0:21:09- The second, built in 1801, - capitalizes on views of Cader Idris.

0:21:16 > 0:21:19- The entrance corridor - is very disappointing.

0:21:19 > 0:21:22- It's small, and it's very dark.

0:21:22 > 0:21:26- You then turn the corner and you see - the house's main feature.

0:21:26 > 0:21:31- It's a light, bright main vestibule - with a wonderful staircase.

0:21:37 > 0:21:40- None of the decorative touches - are too fancy.

0:21:41 > 0:21:46- No. The plasterwork is plain, - and there's no plaster ceiling rose.

0:21:46 > 0:21:49- The door mouldings - are relatively plain.

0:21:50 > 0:21:52- That was early 19th-century fashion.

0:21:53 > 0:21:57- Things had changed by - the mid-19th century, as we'll see.

0:22:00 > 0:22:05- We're in the part of the house - which as added in Victorian times.

0:22:05 > 0:22:08- Yes, this drawing room - was added in 1867.

0:22:08 > 0:22:12- The architectural details - are Georgian in style.

0:22:12 > 0:22:15- The wood and the plasterwork - around the doors...

0:22:16 > 0:22:19- ..are an echo - of the designs of the 1750s.

0:22:22 > 0:22:25- The fireplace is pretty special.

0:22:25 > 0:22:27- The fireplace is pretty special.- - Yes, it was a fashionable fireplace.

0:22:28 > 0:22:32- The 1851 Great Exhibition in London - started this fashion...

0:22:32 > 0:22:34- ..for arched fireplaces.

0:22:35 > 0:22:36- This chandelier...

0:22:37 > 0:22:41- ..was exhibited - in the Paris Exhibition of 1855.

0:22:42 > 0:22:44- This was the family's holiday home.

0:22:45 > 0:22:47- They lived in London - most of the time.

0:22:48 > 0:22:54- This is Richard Richards, and he - worked for the Exchequer in London.

0:22:54 > 0:22:56- Lord Eldon was a friend of his.

0:22:56 > 0:23:01- Eldon Square in Dolgellau - was named after him.

0:23:15 > 0:23:17- This is a fantastic room.

0:23:17 > 0:23:21- It was added in 1900, and - I don't think it's changed one bit.

0:23:21 > 0:23:23- It hasn't been used much.

0:23:23 > 0:23:26- The original table is still here...

0:23:27 > 0:23:30- ..and the paint - is the original colour.

0:23:30 > 0:23:34- This magnificent oak fireplace - is also original.

0:23:34 > 0:23:37- It carries - the Richards family crest.

0:23:37 > 0:23:42- The family motto is also here, - "Loyal to the Truth."

0:23:43 > 0:23:45- That's an original sign.

0:23:45 > 0:23:48- "Gentlemen please use the rest.

0:23:48 > 0:23:51- "Do not smoke or spin coins - over the table."

0:23:54 > 0:23:59- It would be a shame to leave without - having a quick frame of snooker.

0:23:59 > 0:24:02- I am the king of the green baize!

0:24:52 > 0:24:55- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

0:24:55 > 0:24:55- .