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0:00:00 > 0:00:04- Welcome to Llanandras or Presteigne - as it is known in English.
0:00:05 > 0:00:09- I'm so close to England, - if I took five steps backwards...
0:00:09 > 0:00:12- ..this show would be called - The English Town!
0:00:12 > 0:00:16- I'm ashamed to admit - not only have I never been here...
0:00:16 > 0:00:20- ..but I've never been inclined - to do so until now.
0:00:20 > 0:00:23- Presteigne is a fascinating place...
0:00:23 > 0:00:26- ..as we'll discover - in the next half hour.
0:00:27 > 0:00:29- Welcome to Y Dref Gymreig.
0:00:29 > 0:00:32- Presteigne is Welsh, not English!
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0:00:54 > 0:00:58- Presteigne is a beautiful town - in the Welsh Marches.
0:00:58 > 0:01:03- Tonight, we hear about a green man - who hides on a corbel.
0:01:03 > 0:01:06- We'll visit - a restored medieval home.
0:01:06 > 0:01:10- We'll also see - how judges lived the high life...
0:01:10 > 0:01:13- ..while prisoners - awaited their fate.
0:01:35 > 0:01:38- Here we are, on the church tower.
0:01:38 > 0:01:41- This is St Andrew's Church - in Presteigne.
0:01:41 > 0:01:46- Even Welsh speakers call this town - Presteigne, rather than Llanandras.
0:01:47 > 0:01:51- The border with England - is 100 yards from this spot.
0:01:51 > 0:01:53- Yes, but we're on the better side!
0:01:54 > 0:01:59- Presteigne is a town - packed with Tudor architecture.
0:01:59 > 0:02:04- There are more Tudor buildings here - than anywhere else in Wales.
0:02:04 > 0:02:07- What generated this town's wealth?
0:02:07 > 0:02:08- There are substantial houses here.
0:02:08 > 0:02:11- There are substantial houses here.- - Yes, it was a wealthy Tudor town.
0:02:11 > 0:02:15- We're talking about - the 16th and 17th centuries.
0:02:15 > 0:02:17- Local wool generated wealth.
0:02:18 > 0:02:21- During the 18th century, - and into Victorian times...
0:02:21 > 0:02:26- ..it was on the main route of the - coaches from London to Aberystwyth.
0:02:26 > 0:02:29- Its proximity to the border - also helps.
0:02:29 > 0:02:34- Looking at the town, I can see - precious few modern features.
0:02:34 > 0:02:38- I haven't seen a single PVC window - or door in this fantastic town!
0:02:39 > 0:02:40- It's my idea of heaven!
0:02:41 > 0:02:42- Let's explore it.
0:03:17 > 0:03:18- This is River Lugg...
0:03:19 > 0:03:23- ..the river which separates - Wales and England in this area.
0:03:24 > 0:03:28- This river has proved useful - to local industry over the years.
0:03:29 > 0:03:31- This was the town laundry.
0:03:31 > 0:03:34- People washed everything - in the river.
0:03:34 > 0:03:36- Prior to that, it was a tannery.
0:03:36 > 0:03:41- Animal skins were washed to - make leather here in the Tan House.
0:03:42 > 0:03:46- There's something interesting - in the attic.
0:03:56 > 0:04:01- You've dragged me up three flights - of stairs to someone's attic...
0:04:01 > 0:04:03- ..to see what exactly.
0:04:04 > 0:04:08- I brought you here to see - the fascinating roof structure.
0:04:08 > 0:04:12- Most of the house was revamped - in the 18th and 19th centuries...
0:04:13 > 0:04:16- ..but here, in the attic, - we see its history.
0:04:16 > 0:04:20- This is one of five medieval - first-storey hall houses...
0:04:21 > 0:04:24- ..discovered in the town - by the Royal Commission.
0:04:24 > 0:04:28- Using dendrochronology - to date the timber...
0:04:28 > 0:04:33- ..they know this side - of the building was erected in 1436.
0:04:33 > 0:04:35- It's very, very old.
0:04:35 > 0:04:39- This is probably the earliest - secular building in Powys.
0:04:39 > 0:04:42- It couldn't be much earlier...
0:04:42 > 0:04:47- ..as Owain Glyndwr torched the town - at the start of the 15th century.
0:04:53 > 0:04:57- There are more timber-framed - buildings on High Street.
0:04:57 > 0:05:02- Some of the facades are Victorian, - but the frames are made of oak.
0:05:08 > 0:05:10- Despite the obvious new sections...
0:05:10 > 0:05:14- ..it looks almost as natural - as when it was built.
0:05:14 > 0:05:18- Yes, this is the old shop front - from the 16th century.
0:05:18 > 0:05:21- It's very old, - and it's great to see it.
0:05:21 > 0:05:23- I'd never seen one before.
0:05:24 > 0:05:28- The glass in the windows is new, - but the structure is original.
0:05:28 > 0:05:31- This is indeed an old, Tudor shop.
0:05:31 > 0:05:33- What makes this place so special?
0:05:33 > 0:05:35- What makes this place so special?- - The architectural details.
0:05:36 > 0:05:39- Take a look - at the side of the corbel.
0:05:40 > 0:05:43- There's a Green Man carving there.
0:05:44 > 0:05:46- This is an ancient pagan symbol...
0:05:46 > 0:05:51- ..which became fashionable - during the Renaissance.
0:05:51 > 0:05:53- Is it original to the building?
0:05:53 > 0:05:55- Is it original to the building?- - Yes, I think so.
0:05:55 > 0:05:57- That's amazing!
0:06:05 > 0:06:09- This is the crossroads - in the centre of Presteigne.
0:06:09 > 0:06:13- That's the road from the border, - and this is High Street.
0:06:13 > 0:06:18- The four architectural periods - in the history of Presteigne...
0:06:18 > 0:06:21- ..can be seen on these four corners.
0:06:21 > 0:06:25- The jettied, timber-framed shop - must be the oldest.
0:06:25 > 0:06:30- Yes, beneath that plaster - is a 16th or 17th-century building.
0:06:30 > 0:06:33- You can see some sections - of the oak frame.
0:06:33 > 0:06:35- It's typical of Presteigne.
0:06:36 > 0:06:39- Many oak-framed buildings - are hidden by plaster.
0:06:40 > 0:06:43- Plastering is an old, - 17th-century tradition.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46- It was used to mask - or to decorate oak frames.
0:06:47 > 0:06:51- To our right - is the first Post Office in Wales.
0:06:51 > 0:06:54- It looks like - a Georgian building to me.
0:06:55 > 0:06:58- The wide eaves suggest - it dates back to Georgian times.
0:06:59 > 0:07:01- It may even be a Victorian building.
0:07:02 > 0:07:05- This building behind us - is 100% Victorian!
0:07:08 > 0:07:12- The Assembly Rooms - had public rooms upstairs.
0:07:12 > 0:07:15- There was a market under the arcade.
0:07:15 > 0:07:19- This design is our old chum, - the Italianate Gothic style!
0:07:19 > 0:07:21- Yes, indeed!
0:07:21 > 0:07:24- The Campanile tower - gives it an Italian style.
0:07:25 > 0:07:28- Without a doubt, this is - a crossroads of wonders...
0:07:29 > 0:07:32- ..and that is - the most amazing building of all.
0:07:32 > 0:07:36- Yes, though it's the newest - of the four buildings.
0:07:37 > 0:07:39- It was built in around 1900.
0:07:39 > 0:07:43- It's a good example - of Aesthetic Movement urban design.
0:07:43 > 0:07:46- It dates back to - late Victorian times.
0:07:48 > 0:07:53- Here we see some plasterwork panels, - known as pargeting.
0:07:53 > 0:07:56- It's a fantastic example - of pargeting...
0:07:57 > 0:08:00- ..but it doesn't reflect - local traditions.
0:08:01 > 0:08:04- You see pargeting - in south-east England.
0:08:14 > 0:08:19- Two miles outside the town, - there's a medieval hall house...
0:08:19 > 0:08:23- ..which has been restored - to its original glory.
0:08:27 > 0:08:32- You've brought me here to Discoed, - just outside Presteigne.
0:08:32 > 0:08:35- We're in a graveyard - opposite a lovely church...
0:08:36 > 0:08:38- ..in which stands this ancient yew.
0:08:38 > 0:08:41- This tree - must be thousands of years old.
0:08:42 > 0:08:46- Yes, the experts tell us - this is over 5,000 years old!
0:08:48 > 0:08:50- It's the oldest tree in Wales.
0:08:51 > 0:08:53- The church is medieval.
0:08:54 > 0:08:58- I like the relationship - between the features.
0:08:58 > 0:09:03- The old castle motte, dating back - to Norman times, is over there.
0:09:05 > 0:09:10- This ancient yew tree stands here, - in front of a medieval church.
0:09:10 > 0:09:14- We're here to see - the medieval manor house behind it.
0:09:27 > 0:09:29- The location of this house...
0:09:29 > 0:09:32- ..and the fact - the fancy side faces the church...
0:09:33 > 0:09:36- ..suggests the owner - was a man of status.
0:09:36 > 0:09:41- Yes, the house was built for - a wealthy wool merchant from Ludlow.
0:09:41 > 0:09:43- From what period does it come?
0:09:43 > 0:09:44- From what period does it come?- - It spans two periods.
0:09:46 > 0:09:50- The original, stonework hall house - stands here.
0:09:52 > 0:09:54- It was extended in 1536.
0:09:54 > 0:09:56- The timber has been dated...
0:09:56 > 0:10:01- ..which is how we know - the cross-wing was added in 1536.
0:10:01 > 0:10:05- This is one of the prettiest houses - we've seen on our programmes.
0:10:22 > 0:10:23- Minti!
0:10:25 > 0:10:30- Our tour begins in what was - the hall of the original hall house.
0:10:32 > 0:10:37- The ceiling doesn't seem straight. - Did it used to be open to the roof?
0:10:38 > 0:10:42- Yes, it was open during the time - when it was a hall house.
0:10:42 > 0:10:48- In the 17th century, the open hall - was rebuilt as a two-storey house.
0:10:48 > 0:10:52- The original oak-framed house - was rebuilt in stone.
0:10:52 > 0:10:56- The ceiling and the fireplace - come from the same period.
0:11:00 > 0:11:05- This room, behind the partition, - was a private family room...
0:11:05 > 0:11:07- ..when this was a hall house.
0:11:07 > 0:11:10- This was the main living room - in Tudor times...
0:11:11 > 0:11:13- ..when the cross-wing was added.
0:11:13 > 0:11:15- The ceiling in here is lovely.
0:11:15 > 0:11:20- It's a traditional style for - the county and the Presteigne area.
0:11:20 > 0:11:23- There are several examples - in the area.
0:11:31 > 0:11:33- This staircase looks incredible!
0:11:34 > 0:11:39- I thought this was a 17th-century - staircase, but I was wrong!
0:11:41 > 0:11:43- Only one baluster is original!
0:11:45 > 0:11:47- The pattern here is different.
0:11:47 > 0:11:52- This led to the servants' quarters, - and it's an original staircase.
0:12:02 > 0:12:03- What a delightful room!
0:12:05 > 0:12:10- This is the fancy gable you can see - from the outside of the house.
0:12:11 > 0:12:15- Here, you can get a good impression - of the decorative studwork inside.
0:12:16 > 0:12:17- In the winter...
0:12:18 > 0:12:22- ..they would place woollen hangings - on the walls for insulation.
0:12:22 > 0:12:26- Oak-framed houses - are some of the coldest in Wales.
0:12:26 > 0:12:29- I like the way the decorative work - has an impact on the interior.
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0:12:52 > 0:12:57- There is another medieval hall house - on the outskirts of Presteigne.
0:12:57 > 0:13:01- This one features carpentry - of the highest calibre.
0:13:02 > 0:13:05- I know you're awestruck - by this porch, Greg.
0:13:06 > 0:13:08- I can see it's a splendid porch...
0:13:08 > 0:13:13- ..but I'm not totally sure - why you're so excited about it.
0:13:15 > 0:13:17- It may not be instantly obvious...
0:13:17 > 0:13:20- ..but I think - this is the best porch in Wales.
0:13:21 > 0:13:25- This is Tudor carving work - at its very best.
0:13:25 > 0:13:27- This was built in around 1542.
0:13:28 > 0:13:30- The carpentry is truly amazing.
0:13:31 > 0:13:35- The triangular section of timber, - known as the corbel...
0:13:36 > 0:13:39- ..features carvings - of the carpenter's tools.
0:13:39 > 0:13:43- The carpenter carved - images of his tools on the corbel.
0:13:44 > 0:13:48- This was an era when carpenters - were as famous as poets and authors.
0:13:49 > 0:13:52- Yes, they were esteemed - in Tudor times.
0:13:52 > 0:13:56- Reparatory work has been - carried out to this porch...
0:13:57 > 0:13:59- ..but I'm amazed it's still here.
0:13:59 > 0:14:00- ..but I'm amazed it's still here.- - Yes, I agree.
0:14:00 > 0:14:05- I'd expect to find a fancy room - above here, but it's now a bathroom.
0:14:05 > 0:14:07- Minti is already inside!
0:14:28 > 0:14:32- The ceiling carpentry here is - just as excellent as on the porch.
0:14:32 > 0:14:35- Yes, it's probably - the work of the same carpenter.
0:14:39 > 0:14:41- But this pattern is unusual.
0:14:41 > 0:14:46- The joists are laid in different - directions within these sections.
0:14:46 > 0:14:48- Yes, it's a fancy ceiling.
0:14:48 > 0:14:50- It's a top quality ceiling.
0:14:51 > 0:14:54- The fireplace is interesting.
0:14:54 > 0:14:57- It looks as if someone, - during the Victorian era...
0:14:58 > 0:15:03- ..collected 17th-century panels - from trunks and four-poster beds...
0:15:03 > 0:15:07- ..and slotted them together - to create a fancy decoration.
0:15:07 > 0:15:11- It was fashionable - to butcher old furniture...
0:15:11 > 0:15:14- ..and use decorative sections - to create a patchwork.
0:15:15 > 0:15:17- Yes. Trunks were cheap.
0:15:38 > 0:15:43- Back to the town to see an elegant - building called The Manor House.
0:15:51 > 0:15:56- It's a majestic, plain design - which looks Georgian to me.
0:15:56 > 0:15:59- Yes, this is - one of the town's largest houses.
0:16:00 > 0:16:01- It's sophisticated.
0:16:02 > 0:16:03- I love the architecture.
0:16:04 > 0:16:06- This is how it looked in the 1840s.
0:16:06 > 0:16:10- There's been a house on this site - since the 16th century.
0:16:11 > 0:16:12- Who lived in this house?
0:16:13 > 0:16:15- Some important people - have lived here.
0:16:16 > 0:16:19- In the early days, - it was the Bradshaw family home.
0:16:20 > 0:16:25- It then became the judges' lodgings - when the court was held here.
0:16:25 > 0:16:26- Let's take a look inside.
0:16:26 > 0:16:28- Let's take a look inside.- - You're in for a surprise.
0:16:31 > 0:16:33- You're right - I am surprised.
0:16:33 > 0:16:35- It's not what I expected.
0:16:35 > 0:16:39- It doesn't match - the exterior of this building.
0:16:39 > 0:16:41- This is the old structure - of the house.
0:16:42 > 0:16:45- I think this dates back - to the 16th century.
0:16:45 > 0:16:49- One feature caught my eye - when I walked through the door.
0:16:49 > 0:16:53- That, of course, is the panel - at the back of the room.
0:16:53 > 0:16:58- It doesn't look like the usual - patchwork of trunks and chests...
0:16:58 > 0:17:01- ..cobbled together - to create a pattern.
0:17:01 > 0:17:03- It looks original to me.
0:17:03 > 0:17:06- Yes, that's a magnificent fireplace.
0:17:06 > 0:17:10- It's a great example - of 17th-century Jacobean carving.
0:17:10 > 0:17:15- Do you think this house is tied to - the structure of the original house?
0:17:16 > 0:17:18- Is that why the ceilings are so low?
0:17:19 > 0:17:21- I'm not sure.
0:17:21 > 0:17:25- The current owners tell me - the building is oak-framed.
0:17:25 > 0:17:30- It has a new, stone front and - stone extensions were added to it.
0:17:30 > 0:17:33- This room - may well have been like this...
0:17:34 > 0:17:38- ..since the building was erected, - during the 16th century.
0:17:47 > 0:17:50- Well! Out of the darkness - and into the light.
0:17:50 > 0:17:53- Yes, it feels - totally different upstairs.
0:17:53 > 0:17:57- This was a reception room - rather than a bedroom.
0:17:57 > 0:17:59- The plasterwork was expensive.
0:18:00 > 0:18:03- The ceiling rose, the cornicing...
0:18:04 > 0:18:08- ..and the fancy marble fireplace - weren't cheap.
0:18:08 > 0:18:11- When was this - added to the original house?
0:18:12 > 0:18:14- It was built around 1840.
0:18:15 > 0:18:18- That explains - the two huge windows in here.
0:18:34 > 0:18:38- The judges' lodgings were moved from - Manor House to this building.
0:18:39 > 0:18:44- It was erected in 1820 as a - judges' lodgings and a court of law.
0:18:46 > 0:18:48- Well, well!
0:18:48 > 0:18:51- You instantly see - the sheer luxury of the place.
0:18:52 > 0:18:55- Huge amounts of money - were spent on the judges.
0:18:55 > 0:18:58- They only stayed here twice a year!
0:18:58 > 0:19:00- It was like a luxury holiday - for them.
0:19:01 > 0:19:02- There was real money here.
0:19:03 > 0:19:07- They would come here from Brecon - having heard maybe 100 cases...
0:19:08 > 0:19:12- ..and there may not have been - a single case awaiting them here.
0:19:12 > 0:19:16- They would dine here at night - and hunt during the day.
0:19:16 > 0:19:17- What a lifestyle!
0:19:18 > 0:19:20- The crockery looks interesting.
0:19:20 > 0:19:23- Yes, it all came from this house.
0:19:23 > 0:19:27- Everything you see here was bought - for this house in the 1860s.
0:19:31 > 0:19:34- The crockery and the glasses - are original.
0:19:34 > 0:19:38- The table is set - for an ordinary, midweek dinner.
0:19:38 > 0:19:40- There's a choice of six glasses!
0:19:41 > 0:19:45- The smallest glass is - a sherry glass, to go with the soup.
0:19:45 > 0:19:50- White wine with the fish course, - red wine with the meat course...
0:19:50 > 0:19:53- ..sweet wine with dessert, - also port and water.
0:19:54 > 0:19:56- That wasn't even a special dinner!
0:19:57 > 0:19:59- I use six glasses every night, too!
0:19:59 > 0:20:00- I use six glasses every night, too!- - Yes - you're a gentleman!
0:20:01 > 0:20:02- Let's head upstairs.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27- There are a couple - of lovely bedrooms here...
0:20:27 > 0:20:30- ..but the bathroom - is my favourite room.
0:20:31 > 0:20:34- That's like - taking a bath in a coffin!
0:20:34 > 0:20:37- Yes. It's a good quality, tin bath.
0:20:37 > 0:20:40- It's shaped like a coffin - in order to save water.
0:20:40 > 0:20:42- There was no tap here...
0:20:43 > 0:20:47- ..so if you wanted a bath, - the maid had to fill it with cans.
0:20:47 > 0:20:52- Keep it in mind there are 41 steps - between here and the kitchen!
0:20:52 > 0:20:55- This is an original can - which has been painted.
0:20:55 > 0:20:59- I'm told it took an hour and a half - to fill this bath!
0:20:59 > 0:21:02- I'm not sure - how often the judges had a bath!
0:21:23 > 0:21:24- This is the kitchen.
0:21:25 > 0:21:27- Lots of hard work was done here.
0:21:27 > 0:21:31- I think this is the biggest dresser - I've seen in my life!
0:21:31 > 0:21:35- Yes, and it was probably - custom-built for this room.
0:21:35 > 0:21:39- Most of the structure dates back - to 1829 when the house was built...
0:21:39 > 0:21:42- ..but the wares - date back to the 1860s.
0:21:44 > 0:21:46- That explains these gas lights.
0:21:46 > 0:21:51- But the judges were worried about - having gas lights fitted upstairs...
0:21:52 > 0:21:55- ..so they tested them out - on the servants down here!
0:21:55 > 0:21:58- This feels a bit dark to us...
0:21:58 > 0:22:02- ..but it's nothing compared to - the prisoners' experience!
0:22:02 > 0:22:06- They were held down the corridor - in damp, cold cells.
0:22:22 > 0:22:23- It's cold in here.
0:22:24 > 0:22:27- It's luxurious - and it has an en suite!
0:22:27 > 0:22:29- Yes, en suite in the corner!
0:22:30 > 0:22:33- Let's head upstairs to see - the building's main feature.
0:22:40 > 0:22:44- I'm doomed! Hell's fire - is burning bright above me!
0:22:45 > 0:22:46- You're in the dock.
0:22:47 > 0:22:49- This is the bar.
0:22:49 > 0:22:52- That's what - "Called to the Bar" means.
0:22:52 > 0:22:55- The judge sat opposite us - and the lawyers sat here.
0:22:56 > 0:22:59- Journalists sat to one side, - in that box.
0:23:00 > 0:23:02- Is the design of this courtroom...
0:23:04 > 0:23:08- ..original to the period - in which the building was erected?
0:23:08 > 0:23:11- Yes, and very little - has been renovated.
0:23:11 > 0:23:13- The structure is original.
0:23:13 > 0:23:18- The timber was recently painted - but nothing else has been done here.
0:23:19 > 0:23:22- When you stand in the dock, - you feel exposed.
0:23:22 > 0:23:26- People can see you - from every side of the courtroom.
0:23:26 > 0:23:30- Yes, but you feel quite different - when you stand in the witness box.
0:23:33 > 0:23:35- It's the highest box - in the courtroom.
0:23:36 > 0:23:40- The thing I like most about this - museum is that everyone can use it.
0:23:40 > 0:23:45- They allow children to come in here - and act out courtroom roles.
0:23:45 > 0:23:48- You're allowed to touch everything.
0:23:49 > 0:23:51- There's an old judge's wig here.
0:23:52 > 0:23:54- It's really old.
0:23:57 > 0:23:59- Stay here where you belong...
0:23:59 > 0:24:03- ..and I'll claim my place - on the other side of the bench.
0:24:04 > 0:24:05- Any excuse to dress up!
0:24:39 > 0:24:42- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:24:42 > 0:24:42- .