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0:00:00 > 0:00:05- "A city that is set on a hill cannot - be hidden", according to the Bible.
0:00:05 > 0:00:08- That's what makes Llandeilo - so attractive.
0:00:08 > 0:00:12- It can be seen from near and far.
0:00:12 > 0:00:16- It also has a very colourful - architectural history.
0:00:16 > 0:00:18- Welcome to Y Dref Gymreig.
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0:00:39 > 0:00:44- The town of Llandeilo offers - a feast of architectural treats.
0:00:44 > 0:00:49- We'll visit a magnificent mansion - and an ancient castle.
0:00:49 > 0:00:54- We'll also see a church tower, - a fine bridge and a Neo-Tudor home.
0:00:55 > 0:00:59- Finally, we'll explore the interior - of one of the town's old banks.
0:01:32 > 0:01:35- We're in the market town - of Llandeilo.
0:01:35 > 0:01:40- It's an important town - in the history of Carmarthenshire.
0:01:40 > 0:01:44- There was a real buzz - about this town in Victorian times.
0:01:44 > 0:01:46- It was teeming with people.
0:01:46 > 0:01:49- Cattle was sold - opposite the church...
0:01:49 > 0:01:53- ..and pigs were sold on - the street behind us - King Street.
0:01:54 > 0:01:56- Horses were sold - on Carmarthen Road.
0:01:56 > 0:01:59- Tywi Valley corn was famous.
0:01:59 > 0:02:02- Corn, cheese and milk - were sold in Shire Hall.
0:02:02 > 0:02:04- It was a busy town.
0:02:04 > 0:02:07- There were over 70 shops here - in Victorian times!
0:02:08 > 0:02:11- Llandeilo - is named after Saint Teilo...
0:02:11 > 0:02:15- ..and this places the town - in the age of the saints.
0:02:15 > 0:02:18- Yes but this isn't a medieval town.
0:02:18 > 0:02:21- The majority of what you see - is Georgian.
0:02:21 > 0:02:25- There are also - a lot of Victorian houses here.
0:02:25 > 0:02:29- Our journey begins - on the outskirts of the town...
0:02:29 > 0:02:30- ..at Dinefwr Castle.
0:02:39 > 0:02:44- Dinefwr was the seat - of the Princes of Deheubarth.
0:02:44 > 0:02:47- This important Welsh castle...
0:02:47 > 0:02:51- ..was built by Rhys Grug, - Rhys Mewchyll and Rhys Fychan.
0:02:51 > 0:02:54- It eventually fell to Edward I - in 1277.
0:02:54 > 0:02:56- What a great location!
0:02:56 > 0:02:59- It's a great strategic location.
0:02:59 > 0:03:03- You can see for miles from here, - all the way down to the valley...
0:03:05 > 0:03:07- ..and down to Dryslwyn Castle.
0:03:08 > 0:03:13- This location was strategically - important even in Roman times.
0:03:13 > 0:03:15- The Romans built a temple.
0:03:15 > 0:03:19- They also built forts - in what is now Dinefwr Park.
0:03:20 > 0:03:23- This area was very important - in Rhys's time.
0:03:24 > 0:03:26- Llandeilo Fawr is adjacent to it.
0:03:27 > 0:03:31- This is one of the most important - of the Welsh castles.
0:03:31 > 0:03:34- This was - an important Welsh cultural centre.
0:03:34 > 0:03:37- That's why the Normans - wanted to capture it.
0:03:38 > 0:03:40- They did just that - in the late 13th century.
0:03:52 > 0:03:55- CADW has since restored the castle.
0:03:55 > 0:04:00- We're familiar with a painting of it - taken from the bridge...
0:04:00 > 0:04:02- ..by Turner, the famous artist.
0:04:03 > 0:04:05- Our next destination - is that bridge...
0:04:06 > 0:04:08- ..and in particular, - the house next to it.
0:04:22 > 0:04:27- In the 1840s, - county surveyor William Williams...
0:04:27 > 0:04:30- ..designed - a new bridge for Llandeilo.
0:04:32 > 0:04:36- The project was completed - by Edward Haycock in 1851...
0:04:36 > 0:04:38- ..at the huge cost of 23,000.
0:04:40 > 0:04:43- This was known - as one of the wonders of Wales.
0:04:43 > 0:04:45- People came to see it.
0:04:45 > 0:04:48- It was one of the largest bridges - in Britain.
0:04:48 > 0:04:51- It still looks fantastic today...
0:04:51 > 0:04:54- ..although we're familiar - with modern bridges.
0:04:54 > 0:04:58- The bridge and the new road - gave this town a new image.
0:04:59 > 0:05:03- It looks almost - like a continental village.
0:05:03 > 0:05:06- To me, this bridge - feels like the boundary...
0:05:07 > 0:05:09- ..between west and south Wales.
0:05:10 > 0:05:13- After crossing the bridge, - there's a different feeling.
0:05:13 > 0:05:17- Let's look at the first house - we see after you cross the bridge.
0:05:18 > 0:05:20- Moreb, Tudor-style house.
0:05:38 > 0:05:42- Moreb has its own unique style - within the town of Llandeilo.
0:05:42 > 0:05:45- When was it built?
0:05:45 > 0:05:47- It's a Neo-Tudor style.
0:05:48 > 0:05:50- Alterations - were carried out to it...
0:05:51 > 0:05:55- ..and most of what is seen today - dates back to the Victorian era.
0:05:55 > 0:05:59- The original house stood here...
0:05:59 > 0:06:02- ..before the bridge was built - in the 1840s.
0:06:03 > 0:06:05- Who lived here originally?
0:06:05 > 0:06:07- Who lived here originally?- - The agent of the Gelli Aur estate.
0:06:07 > 0:06:11- Lord Cawdor decided - to build this house for the agent.
0:06:11 > 0:06:15- It stands on the very edge - of the Gelli Aur lands.
0:06:15 > 0:06:18- It's a very strange choice - of location.
0:06:18 > 0:06:21- This is the entrance - to the Dinefwr estate...
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- ..but Lord Cawdor - built a house here for his agent.
0:06:26 > 0:06:31- I've never seen a house like this - with such a fancy porch before.
0:06:31 > 0:06:32- Isn't it wonderful?
0:06:33 > 0:06:36- It's a shame - no-one who builds houses today...
0:06:36 > 0:06:39- ..can afford to spend money - on fancy porches.
0:06:40 > 0:06:43- They used stonework - which was chiselled by hand.
0:06:44 > 0:06:48- In the Victorian age, - people had enough money...
0:06:48 > 0:06:51- ..to be able to splash out - on fancy porches.
0:06:52 > 0:06:57- External details such as porches, - windows and doors were important.
0:06:57 > 0:07:01- They used the same stones - to build Gelli Aur.
0:07:02 > 0:07:05- Ornate windows and a wonderful door.
0:07:06 > 0:07:09- The original bell still works.
0:07:09 > 0:07:12- There are some lovely details here.
0:07:16 > 0:07:22- Miranda Jones and her family have - lived in Moreb for over 20 years.
0:07:23 > 0:07:26- What attracted you to this house?
0:07:28 > 0:07:29- It's beautiful...
0:07:30 > 0:07:33- ..and it looks like a castle.
0:07:33 > 0:07:36- It's in a good position, - on the edge of town.
0:07:36 > 0:07:40- I like the high ceilings - and the spacious rooms.
0:07:41 > 0:07:42- They're not too big.
0:07:43 > 0:07:46- Every single room is really lovely.
0:08:00 > 0:08:01- We're in the hall...
0:08:01 > 0:08:05- ..which leads from the front door - to the rear of the house.
0:08:06 > 0:08:09- It's possible - the agent worked from home.
0:08:10 > 0:08:12- There are four reception rooms here.
0:08:12 > 0:08:16- A pair at the front - and a pair behind the stairs.
0:08:16 > 0:08:20- The agent's study or office - may have been at the front.
0:08:20 > 0:08:23- There's a Victorian fireplace there.
0:08:23 > 0:08:27- The other internal features - date back to the 1800s...
0:08:28 > 0:08:30- ..the time when the house was built.
0:08:30 > 0:08:32- In a house of this status...
0:08:32 > 0:08:36- ..one would expect to see - a splendid staircase.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38- We actually have a fine staircase...
0:08:39 > 0:08:43- ..but it somehow falls short of - the status of the rest of the house.
0:08:44 > 0:08:47- It's made of oak, - so at least it's not made of pine.
0:08:48 > 0:08:52- The craftsmanship is good and it's - a design that dates from 1800.
0:08:53 > 0:08:57- It's narrow and it looks like - a servants' staircase.
0:08:57 > 0:08:59- The house was remodelled...
0:08:59 > 0:09:03- ..so maybe they had no room - to build a fancy staircase.
0:09:04 > 0:09:07- The doors and the architraves - are top quality.
0:09:07 > 0:09:12- Craftsmen from the mansion were - available to work on this house.
0:09:17 > 0:09:20- One of Llandeilo's problems - had been...
0:09:20 > 0:09:25- ..access up the steep hill from the - bridge and around the churchyard.
0:09:25 > 0:09:29- In 1815, a road running - through the churchyard was built.
0:09:30 > 0:09:35- That road was widened and improved - when this bridge was built in 1851.
0:09:42 > 0:09:45- One of the perks of this job - is accessing areas...
0:09:46 > 0:09:49- ..which are out of bounds - to everyone else.
0:09:49 > 0:09:52- Yes, we're at the top - of the church tower.
0:09:52 > 0:09:56- The town was named after Saint Teilo - and so was this church.
0:09:57 > 0:10:01- This tower was built - circa the 16th century.
0:10:01 > 0:10:03- It looks like a Norman tower.
0:10:06 > 0:10:10- The church was founded here during - St Teilo's time, in the 6th century.
0:10:10 > 0:10:14- Teilo was a famous man and he lived - in the same era as Saint David.
0:10:14 > 0:10:17- A cult developed around him - and his name.
0:10:18 > 0:10:22- Were parts of this church - redesigned by the Victorians?
0:10:22 > 0:10:24- Yes, that's true.
0:10:24 > 0:10:28- Apart from this tower, - the church was demolished in 1850...
0:10:29 > 0:10:34- ..and rebuilt by famous Victorian - architect, George Gilbert Scott.
0:10:36 > 0:10:37- He was an important man.
0:10:37 > 0:10:39- He was an important man.- - Yes, this is an important town.
0:10:40 > 0:10:44- The architecture - is of the highest quality.
0:10:45 > 0:10:48- These are - 18th and 19th century buildings.
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0:10:55 > 0:10:55- 888
0:10:55 > 0:10:57- 888- - 888
0:11:16 > 0:11:20- We're standing outside The Cawdor - on Llandeilo High Street.
0:11:21 > 0:11:24- This is the main - coaching inn of the town.
0:11:24 > 0:11:28- Llandeilo was a centre - where people gathered...
0:11:28 > 0:11:31- ..and this was - the main meeting point.
0:11:31 > 0:11:34- Farmhands stood outside here - on market day...
0:11:34 > 0:11:39- ..in the hope of a farmer - hiring them for the following year.
0:11:40 > 0:11:42- Tell me about the building.
0:11:42 > 0:11:43- When was it erected?
0:11:44 > 0:11:47- Most of what you see - dates back to the 18th century.
0:11:47 > 0:11:50- It was redesigned circa 1840.
0:11:50 > 0:11:53- The bay windows - date back to that period.
0:11:54 > 0:11:58- One can sit in the bay window - with a pint or a cuppa...
0:11:58 > 0:12:00- ..watching the world go by.
0:12:22 > 0:12:27- The next house for us to visit - was built by Edward Rice in 1660.
0:12:28 > 0:12:32- This magnificent house is now - the property of the National Trust.
0:12:47 > 0:12:52- We're a mile from the centre - of Llandeilo, in Dinefwr Park.
0:12:52 > 0:12:54- The house is called Newton House.
0:12:54 > 0:12:58- What stands here today - looks relatively new.
0:12:59 > 0:13:01- Yes, it looks Victorian.
0:13:01 > 0:13:06- The exterior seems unexciting - but it's full of surprises.
0:13:06 > 0:13:11- This facade of Victorian stonework - conceals a 17th-century manor.
0:13:12 > 0:13:15- This style - is called Venetian Gothic.
0:13:15 > 0:13:18- It refers - to the shape of the arches...
0:13:18 > 0:13:21- ..and to the striped stonework - above them.
0:13:21 > 0:13:27- That's a feature seen - in Venice in Gothic times.
0:13:29 > 0:13:33- It also reminds me - of mansions seen in Scotland.
0:13:33 > 0:13:34- It's very Baronial.
0:13:34 > 0:13:37- The towers look French to me.
0:13:37 > 0:13:39- Yes, it's a fusion of styles.
0:13:39 > 0:13:43- The Victorians took elements - of all sorts of styles...
0:13:43 > 0:13:48- ..and blended them to erect romantic - historic-looking buildings.
0:13:49 > 0:13:51- They're not historic, of course.
0:14:31 > 0:14:33- We're at the rear of the house.
0:14:33 > 0:14:35- Oh, wow!
0:14:35 > 0:14:37- What a splendid staircase!
0:14:37 > 0:14:41- This is evidence - that this is no Victorian house.
0:14:41 > 0:14:45- It's a fantastic, - 17th-century staircase.
0:14:46 > 0:14:49- Is this glorious plaster work - original?
0:14:50 > 0:14:52- Yes, it's all original.
0:14:54 > 0:14:57- The ceiling right at the top - is papier mache...
0:14:58 > 0:15:00- ..so that's definitely Victorian.
0:15:01 > 0:15:04- The plaster work beneath the stairs - is 17th century.
0:15:05 > 0:15:07- The house was built circa 1660.
0:15:08 > 0:15:12- This looks like an open - cantilevered staircase...
0:15:12 > 0:15:14- ..and yet, there are columns.
0:15:15 > 0:15:19- It's said the stairs were unstable - in Victorian times...
0:15:19 > 0:15:23- ..so they added - these quite ugly columns.
0:15:26 > 0:15:30- Massive paintings are needed - to fill these huge walls.
0:15:30 > 0:15:31- Who are these people?
0:15:32 > 0:15:34- They're portraits - of the Rice family.
0:15:35 > 0:15:36- Edward Rice and his wife.
0:15:37 > 0:15:40- My favourite paintings - are in the hallway.
0:15:40 > 0:15:44- They show how the house looked - when it was built in 1660.
0:15:45 > 0:15:46- They're fantastic.
0:16:05 > 0:16:08- We're standing on the roof - of the mansion - Newton House...
0:16:08 > 0:16:12- ..looking towards Llandeilo, - Garn Goch and Ffairfach.
0:16:12 > 0:16:17- In front of the mansion, - we see the famous Dinefwr cattle.
0:16:19 > 0:16:24- Park Whites are an important part - of the heritage of Dinefwr Park.
0:16:25 > 0:16:28- It's believed to be - the oldest breed in Britain.
0:16:28 > 0:16:32- It's great to see them here - after 1,000 years.
0:16:33 > 0:16:34- This is a wonderful park.
0:16:35 > 0:16:37- It's one of the best in Wales.
0:16:37 > 0:16:40- I'm fond of the clumps of trees - planted here.
0:16:40 > 0:16:43- Capability Brown worked here.
0:16:43 > 0:16:47- He was the most important - landscape architect in history.
0:16:47 > 0:16:50- That's the castle we saw earlier...
0:16:50 > 0:16:54- ..and the outbuildings - look like a separate village!
0:16:56 > 0:17:01- The name Newton House refers to the - new town built behind the mansion.
0:17:02 > 0:17:04- Yes, Newe Towne - was built by Edward I.
0:17:04 > 0:17:09- When they captured the castle, - they established a new town here.
0:17:09 > 0:17:13- In the Middle Ages, - you had the Welsh town of Dinefwr...
0:17:14 > 0:17:16- ..the English Newe Towne here...
0:17:16 > 0:17:19- ..and Llandeilo over there.
0:17:19 > 0:17:21- Let's head back there now.
0:17:45 > 0:17:47- Something draws people to Llandeilo.
0:17:47 > 0:17:50- Something draws people to Llandeilo.- - It's a great place to have a cuppa.
0:17:50 > 0:17:52- Maybe I should say cappuccino!
0:17:52 > 0:17:54- This town has changed.
0:17:54 > 0:17:58- A century ago it was - full of farmers and full of pubs.
0:17:58 > 0:18:00- There were over 20 pubs here...
0:18:01 > 0:18:05- ..which equated to one pub - for every 10 houses!
0:18:06 > 0:18:12- Cafes, delicatessens and boutiques - have taken over from the pubs.
0:18:12 > 0:18:15- There's still money - coming into the town.
0:18:16 > 0:18:20- Yes, money plays an important part - in Llandeilo's history.
0:18:34 > 0:18:37- We're back on the old road - into the town.
0:18:37 > 0:18:41- This was the main road into the town - before the bridge was built.
0:18:42 > 0:18:44- Is that why - the houses here are so big?
0:18:44 > 0:18:47- Yes, this would have been - the main terrace.
0:18:48 > 0:18:52- They're wonderful, Georgian houses - with views of the valley.
0:18:53 > 0:18:55- That's why they're so elevated.
0:18:56 > 0:19:01- Almost every building on this street - was a bank, at some point.
0:19:01 > 0:19:04- This was the main bank - - The Black Ox Bank.
0:19:04 > 0:19:07- It was built in 1887 - by a London company.
0:19:07 > 0:19:09- The architect was Calder of London.
0:19:10 > 0:19:13- A thatched cottage stood here - until 1887.
0:19:13 > 0:19:17- There's a link between the bank - and the house next door.
0:19:18 > 0:19:22- The original branch - of the Black Ox Bank was next door.
0:19:23 > 0:19:26- The banking took place - in the front rooms of the house.
0:19:27 > 0:19:31- The bank flourished, so they rebuilt - the thatched cottage...
0:19:31 > 0:19:34- ..and created this majestic bank.
0:19:34 > 0:19:37- Like today, a lot of banks - went out of business...
0:19:38 > 0:19:41- ..and people were concerned - about their money.
0:19:41 > 0:19:45- A new building of status - with studs on its doors...
0:19:45 > 0:19:47- ..seemed like a safe place to bank.
0:19:48 > 0:19:51- There's a clue to its function - above the door!
0:19:51 > 0:19:53- Yes, just in case you forget!
0:20:12 > 0:20:16- Here we are, in the banking hall, - which hasn't changed a bit.
0:20:17 > 0:20:19- In a building of this age...
0:20:19 > 0:20:25- ..I'd expect it to have been - divided into rooms to create a home.
0:20:27 > 0:20:30- It was renovated during the 1970s...
0:20:30 > 0:20:34- ..and the owner preserved - all the original features.
0:20:35 > 0:20:38- This is a lovely - Victorian fireplace.
0:20:39 > 0:20:42- The counter was a kitchen worktop - in the 1970s...
0:20:42 > 0:20:46- ..but it's an office today.
0:20:53 > 0:20:58- Helen and Osian Rees own the company - located in the old bank.
0:20:58 > 0:21:02- Very conveniently, - they also live in Bank House...
0:21:02 > 0:21:04- ..the house next door.
0:21:05 > 0:21:08- We knew nothing about its history.
0:21:09 > 0:21:13- We saw it and thought, - "Wow! It's perfect for our office."
0:21:13 > 0:21:18- We did some research into its - history at the museum in Abergwili.
0:21:18 > 0:21:21- We found out - about the Black Ox Bank...
0:21:21 > 0:21:25- ..and the fact - this was the bank manager's house.
0:21:26 > 0:21:30- It was important to us to be able - to reunite the two buildings.
0:21:30 > 0:21:32- It works brilliantly for us...
0:21:33 > 0:21:37- ..on a business level - and on a personal level.
0:21:38 > 0:21:42- You have a photocopy - of one of the Black Ox bank notes.
0:21:42 > 0:21:43- Where did you get it?
0:21:46 > 0:21:50- We found a picture of one and we - gained permission to photocopy it.
0:21:51 > 0:21:54- Curiously, as legend has it...
0:21:54 > 0:22:00- ..drovers had more respect for Black - Ox notes than Bank of England notes!
0:22:00 > 0:22:03- It's amazing - that a small, west Wales bank...
0:22:03 > 0:22:07- ..was regarded as more solid - than the Bank of England!
0:22:07 > 0:22:10- Are you tempted - to unite the two buildings?
0:22:11 > 0:22:14- No, we'll always separate - home and work.
0:22:14 > 0:22:18- It would be easy to open up - the old linking doorway...
0:22:18 > 0:22:20- ..but we have no plans to do it.
0:22:32 > 0:22:35- Where did they keep the money?
0:22:35 > 0:22:37- Where did they keep the money?- - Under the counter.
0:22:39 > 0:22:42- When I say under the counter, - I mean right under it!
0:22:42 > 0:22:44- The old bank vaults are here.
0:22:45 > 0:22:47- Mind your head on the way down.
0:22:47 > 0:22:48- This is huge.
0:22:49 > 0:22:52- There must have been a lot of money - in Llandeilo!
0:22:52 > 0:22:57- It's like something out of Indiana - Jones and the Temple of Doom!
0:22:57 > 0:22:59- Look at the thickness of this door!
0:23:00 > 0:23:01- There's also a gate here.
0:23:02 > 0:23:05- This is where they stored - bank documents.
0:23:05 > 0:23:07- It's used - for a similar purpose today.
0:23:09 > 0:23:12- There's another iron door here.
0:23:12 > 0:23:15- They stored gold and money in here.
0:23:16 > 0:23:19- You knew - your money would be safe here!
0:23:20 > 0:23:22- Customers were brought down here...
0:23:23 > 0:23:26- ..to see the security measures - for themselves.
0:23:44 > 0:23:47- Our journey around Llandeilo - has come to an end, Greg.
0:23:48 > 0:23:51- Little has changed here - in 150 years.
0:23:51 > 0:23:53- No, just the colours.
0:23:54 > 0:23:56- It's a pretty town.
0:23:57 > 0:24:01- Local people are aware - of its beauty...
0:24:01 > 0:24:03- ..and want - to safeguard the architecture.
0:24:38 > 0:24:40- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:24:40 > 0:24:41- .