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0:00:00 > 0:00:03- Mold has - something of a troubled history.
0:00:03 > 0:00:06- The hill behind me - saw plenty of bloodshed...
0:00:07 > 0:00:09- ..even before the Normans turned up.
0:00:09 > 0:00:12- It has seen battles since then, too.
0:00:12 > 0:00:15- Throw in a church built - to mark a war victory...
0:00:16 > 0:00:21- ..the Industrial Revolution, Daniel - Owen and some architectural gems...
0:00:21 > 0:00:24- ..and you have - this episode of Y Dref Gymreig.
0:00:25 > 0:00:27- 888
0:00:30 > 0:00:32- 888
0:00:37 > 0:00:39- 888
0:00:43 > 0:00:45- 888
0:00:45 > 0:00:50- In this programme, the tower where - the mayor of Chester was hanged...
0:00:50 > 0:00:53- ..family portraits - hanging in Gwysaney Hall...
0:00:54 > 0:00:58- ..the innovative houses - of nuclear scientists...
0:00:58 > 0:01:01- ..and confident - local council architecture.
0:01:01 > 0:01:05- First, the Motte and Bailey - above the town of Mold.
0:01:28 > 0:01:31- Our journey through Mold - and the area...
0:01:31 > 0:01:33- ..begins here, on the Motte.
0:01:35 > 0:01:38- This isn't very familiar - even to those who live here...
0:01:39 > 0:01:41- ..but this is the root of the town.
0:01:41 > 0:01:44- Yes, we're standing - on the old castle Motte.
0:01:45 > 0:01:49- This Motte and Bailey - was the start of the town proper.
0:01:49 > 0:01:51- It was a Norman town.
0:01:51 > 0:01:55- This castle was built by the - Montalt family in the 11th century.
0:01:56 > 0:02:00- The origin of the name Mold - may be the Montalt family.
0:02:01 > 0:02:03- They built a timber castle here.
0:02:04 > 0:02:05- It wasn't made of stone.
0:02:06 > 0:02:09- There are no stones here, - which is interesting.
0:02:11 > 0:02:13- Every town has a purpose.
0:02:13 > 0:02:14- What is Mold's purpose?
0:02:14 > 0:02:16- What is Mold's purpose?- - It's a market town.
0:02:16 > 0:02:21- People came here to sell their wares - and the town developed from there.
0:02:21 > 0:02:24- Mold was a small town - until the 15th century.
0:02:25 > 0:02:27- It subsequently developed.
0:02:27 > 0:02:31- The Industrial Revolution - created the modern Mold.
0:02:31 > 0:02:34- There's a lot of coal and lead - in the area.
0:02:35 > 0:02:39- There were important brickworks - and potteries in the town.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43- It's the only - truly industrial town we've seen.
0:02:43 > 0:02:47- The town was established here, - so what came next?
0:02:47 > 0:02:52- We'll leave the Bailey and head down - to the High Street and the church.
0:02:52 > 0:02:54- Come on, then! Let's go!
0:03:11 > 0:03:15- We've come down the hill from - the Bailey to the top of town.
0:03:15 > 0:03:19- This is Saint Mary's Church - which towers over the town.
0:03:19 > 0:03:23- This is the best possible spot - to build a church.
0:03:23 > 0:03:24- Yes, that's true.
0:03:25 > 0:03:29- The High Street - follows the medieval pattern...
0:03:29 > 0:03:33- ..so we should see - the town's oldest building here.
0:03:34 > 0:03:36- The church dates back to 1485.
0:03:36 > 0:03:41- It was built by Margaret Beaufort, - the mother of Henry Tudor...
0:03:41 > 0:03:46- ..as a gift to Mold to celebrate - Henry's victory at Bosworth.
0:03:48 > 0:03:51- This church - has been restored a few times.
0:03:51 > 0:03:55- The tower was rebuilt - in the mid-18th century.
0:03:55 > 0:04:00- The Victorians had some fun with it, - but it's still beautiful.
0:04:00 > 0:04:04- The people of Mold were never - afraid of rebuilding things...
0:04:05 > 0:04:08- ..so it doesn't have the feel - of a heritage town.
0:04:08 > 0:04:10- Nothing here is precious.
0:04:11 > 0:04:15- People are happy to - demolish buildings and rebuild them.
0:04:16 > 0:04:21- Where you see these railings, - there once stood houses and shops.
0:04:22 > 0:04:26- There are gaps on the High Street - where shops once stood.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29- This town - is still regenerating itself.
0:04:49 > 0:04:51- We're standing on Earl Street.
0:04:52 > 0:04:55- There's a uniformity - about the buildings here.
0:04:56 > 0:05:00- Yes, that's because they were built - by one man during one period.
0:05:01 > 0:05:04- That man was a local architect - called Fred Roberts.
0:05:05 > 0:05:09- He designed the town hall - and the Territorial Force building.
0:05:10 > 0:05:13- He also designed Earl Chambers, - behind us.
0:05:13 > 0:05:17- He adopted a Neo-Baroque style, - and it's great.
0:05:17 > 0:05:19- Fred Roberts wasn't famous.
0:05:20 > 0:05:22- He only did work in and around Mold.
0:05:23 > 0:05:27- He designed houses, and he won a - few big commissions, like this one.
0:05:27 > 0:05:31- The uniformity I mentioned - ends right there!
0:05:31 > 0:05:35- This is Mold - and something had to be pulled down!
0:05:36 > 0:05:40- They probably demolished whatever - was on that side of the street.
0:05:40 > 0:05:44- There's a statue - of Daniel Owen on the square.
0:05:44 > 0:05:48- It's the work of Goscombe John, - the famous sculptor.
0:05:59 > 0:06:02- Our tour of of Mold - and the area continues...
0:06:02 > 0:06:05- ..with a visit - to a 17th-century mansion.
0:06:07 > 0:06:10- It belongs to - the Cooke-Davies family.
0:06:11 > 0:06:13- Built by John ap David...
0:06:13 > 0:06:18- ..the family can trace its history - to the times of Rhodri the Great.
0:06:23 > 0:06:25- We're on the outskirts of Mold.
0:06:25 > 0:06:29- We're at Gwysaney Hall, - looking towards the border.
0:06:29 > 0:06:30- Tell me about this place.
0:06:30 > 0:06:33- Tell me about this place.- - It's a wonderful Jacobean mansion.
0:06:34 > 0:06:37- The main house was rebuilt - in around 1603.
0:06:37 > 0:06:40- That's the oldest side - of the building.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46- This side is a Victorian extension.
0:06:46 > 0:06:50- The original house - was built in an H shape...
0:06:50 > 0:06:55- ..but it's hard to work out today - since a chunk of it has been lost.
0:06:55 > 0:06:57- This wing was one side of the H.
0:06:58 > 0:07:01- The middle section - was the bar in the middle of the H.
0:07:02 > 0:07:07- There was another wing, but it had - to be demolished in Victorian times.
0:07:08 > 0:07:13- That's why the house - looks so asymmetrical today.
0:07:23 > 0:07:26- There's a date and a name - on the door.
0:07:26 > 0:07:28- The year 1640.
0:07:29 > 0:07:32- Yes, but this door - is older than that.
0:07:33 > 0:07:37- It's thought this was - the front door which stood here...
0:07:37 > 0:07:40- ..before the mansion was rebuilt - in 1603.
0:07:40 > 0:07:41- It's really old.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46- During the Civil War, - this family had Royalist links...
0:07:46 > 0:07:50- ..making this - a target for Parliamentarian troops.
0:07:50 > 0:07:54- It's believed Cromwell's men - damaged this door.
0:07:54 > 0:07:57- That would explain - the extensive repair work.
0:07:58 > 0:08:00- It's a beautiful, decorative door.
0:08:01 > 0:08:03- I'm freezing! Let's step inside.
0:08:07 > 0:08:11- We immediately meet the family, - thanks to these portraits.
0:08:12 > 0:08:14- Yes, it's an exceptional collection.
0:08:14 > 0:08:19- It includes a portrait of every - family member who has lived here.
0:08:19 > 0:08:24- There are portraits dating back - from Tudor times to present times.
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- There's a dining table here, - but this is the hallway.
0:08:33 > 0:08:35- These panels aren't in every room.
0:08:35 > 0:08:40- They spent money on the room - you see upon entering the house.
0:08:40 > 0:08:43- This painting - isn't a portrait of this house.
0:08:43 > 0:08:46- It's a house which has family links.
0:08:46 > 0:08:47- It's a house which has family links.- - Yes, this is Llannerch.
0:08:47 > 0:08:50- It's another family mansion.
0:08:50 > 0:08:53- Unfortunately, - it has since been lost.
0:08:53 > 0:08:56- Only the outbuildings have survived.
0:08:56 > 0:08:59- It's a fantastic, - 17th-century painting.
0:09:00 > 0:09:03- It tells us about - family's passion for their estate.
0:09:04 > 0:09:07- This old photograph album - is fascinating.
0:09:07 > 0:09:11- These are Victorian photos, - from the 1880s.
0:09:11 > 0:09:15- The house had been extended - by that time.
0:09:15 > 0:09:17- They are very romantic photographs.
0:09:17 > 0:09:22- The photographs of the town show - the family had close ties to Mold.
0:09:22 > 0:09:27- There are photos of the High Street - and the church in here.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31- It's a wonderful, - deeply personal collection.
0:09:55 > 0:09:59- We've entered a room - to the right of the central hall.
0:10:01 > 0:10:02- This is the parlour.
0:10:03 > 0:10:06- Is this the fireplace - you wanted me to see?
0:10:06 > 0:10:08- Yes, it's interesting.
0:10:08 > 0:10:12- Most of what you see - dates back to Jacobean times...
0:10:12 > 0:10:14- ..but the fireplace doesn't.
0:10:14 > 0:10:16- Parts of it are Jacobean...
0:10:17 > 0:10:23- ..but the Victorians had fun with it - when the house was transformed.
0:10:24 > 0:10:28- Those two newel posts - came from the house's old staircase.
0:10:29 > 0:10:33- They were re-used to create - a fancy, Victorian design.
0:10:35 > 0:10:39- It's difficult to say - which part comes from what period...
0:10:39 > 0:10:43- ..but we certainly know - the staircase has been moved.
0:10:43 > 0:10:49- Yes. This is a Jacobean staircase, - dating back to the 17th century...
0:10:49 > 0:10:51- ..but the Victorians moved it.
0:10:52 > 0:10:55- One wing of this building - was demolished.
0:10:55 > 0:10:58- There was a large gable - on this side...
0:10:58 > 0:11:01- ..where that lovely bay window - now stands.
0:11:02 > 0:11:06- The staircase may have - originally been on this side.
0:11:06 > 0:11:10- It's still here, - although it was redesigned.
0:11:10 > 0:11:13- The wood and the balusters - are Jacobean.
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0:11:37 > 0:11:39- 888- - 888
0:11:47 > 0:11:51- Our tour of Mold continues - along the High Street.
0:11:58 > 0:12:01- The Assembly Rooms - is a majestic building.
0:12:01 > 0:12:03- What do you know about it?
0:12:03 > 0:12:07- It stands at the heart of Mold, - on the crossroads.
0:12:08 > 0:12:12- Important buildings - have always stood here.
0:12:13 > 0:12:18- Leete Hall stood here in Tudor times - but this building isn't Tudor.
0:12:19 > 0:12:23- It dates back to 1849 and - was designed by Alfred Lockwood.
0:12:24 > 0:12:29- This central crossroads - gives the town a village-type feel.
0:12:30 > 0:12:32- That's what - makes it feel as though...
0:12:33 > 0:12:36- ..this town has grown very naturally - from here.
0:12:36 > 0:12:41- The old photos show a memorial stone - in the middle of this junction.
0:12:41 > 0:12:43- They decided to get rid of it.
0:12:43 > 0:12:48- I think it was a mistake because - the traffic here is very busy.
0:12:48 > 0:12:52- If the stone still stood there, - it would be quieter and safer.
0:12:53 > 0:12:57- There is the road that leads down - from the church on the hill.
0:12:58 > 0:13:02- From here, you can appreciate - just how big the church is.
0:13:03 > 0:13:05- It dominates Mold High Street.
0:13:44 > 0:13:47- This is The Tower - on the outskirts of Mold.
0:13:48 > 0:13:52- It looks as if it belongs to - four or five different periods.
0:13:52 > 0:13:53- Yes, that's true.
0:13:54 > 0:13:57- It's an old example of a tower house - and it's unusual.
0:13:58 > 0:14:01- This is the first tower house - we've seen...
0:14:01 > 0:14:03- ..on this series of Y Ty Cymreig.
0:14:04 > 0:14:07- There isn't - a tower house tradition in Wales.
0:14:08 > 0:14:12- In medieval Scotland and Ireland, - people built tower houses.
0:14:12 > 0:14:14- They are castellated houses.
0:14:15 > 0:14:18- In Wales, it was traditional - to build hall houses.
0:14:20 > 0:14:22- The tall tower - is the original house.
0:14:23 > 0:14:27- You can also see touches from the - 17th century and Victorian times.
0:14:28 > 0:14:32- The tower looks more recent - than any other part of the house.
0:14:32 > 0:14:37- Yes, but that is the oldest section - of the property.
0:14:37 > 0:14:41- The Victorians re-dressed - some of the external stones.
0:14:41 > 0:14:43- That's why they seem newer.
0:14:44 > 0:14:47- These large windows - weren't here, originally.
0:14:48 > 0:14:52- Rheinallt Gruffydd ap Bleddyn - lived here...
0:14:52 > 0:14:57- ..and the ground floor was fortified - since this was a castellated house.
0:14:57 > 0:15:00- Large windows - don't make a building secure!
0:15:01 > 0:15:04- In a house with links to - so many different periods...
0:15:05 > 0:15:09- ..there are several features - on the front of the house.
0:15:09 > 0:15:13- Yes. The 18th century - and Victorian features are great.
0:15:13 > 0:15:18- Things like the gargoyles - on the corners of the tower...
0:15:19 > 0:15:23- ..and the section of wall - built to look like crenellations.
0:15:26 > 0:15:31- The maculations remind me of the - work of Burgess in Cardiff Castle.
0:15:31 > 0:15:33- Let's take a look inside.
0:16:08 > 0:16:11- We're on the ground floor - of the tower.
0:16:11 > 0:16:13- The barrelled ceiling looks old.
0:16:13 > 0:16:16- Yes, that's the original ceiling.
0:16:19 > 0:16:21- The craftsmanship is fantastic.
0:16:21 > 0:16:24- This was built in the 15th century.
0:16:25 > 0:16:28- This sort of stonework - is linked with that period.
0:16:29 > 0:16:31- It's top quality work.
0:16:32 > 0:16:34- Almost everything else - in this room...
0:16:35 > 0:16:38- ..dates back only - to the 18th or 19th centuries.
0:16:38 > 0:16:42- The Victorians created - this splendid oak fireplace.
0:16:42 > 0:16:46- This panelling dates back - only to the 1870s...
0:16:46 > 0:16:49- ..but it helps create - a fantastic ambience.
0:16:51 > 0:16:54- Yes, there's a very baronial feel - to the room.
0:16:55 > 0:16:58- There's style and status about it.
0:16:58 > 0:17:01- I know an interesting story - about this room.
0:17:02 > 0:17:04- Do you see the hook in the ceiling?
0:17:04 > 0:17:06- Do you see the hook in the ceiling?- - Yes.
0:17:06 > 0:17:11- It's believed the mayor of Chester - was hanged there, in 1465.
0:17:15 > 0:17:18- Who was that poor man - and why was he hanged?
0:17:18 > 0:17:20- His name was Robert Byrne...
0:17:21 > 0:17:24- ..and his crime was to insult - a friend of Rheinallt's.
0:17:25 > 0:17:27- He was shopping in Mold, - years later...
0:17:28 > 0:17:30- ..and he was captured - by Reinallt's men.
0:17:31 > 0:17:35- They brought him here - and, apparently, hanged him.
0:17:36 > 0:17:40- An unfortunate end - to a day in the sales!
0:17:42 > 0:17:44- Yes, slightly!
0:18:07 > 0:18:11- In the history of Y Ty Cymreig - and Y Dref Gymreig...
0:18:11 > 0:18:15- ..we've never seen a house - from this period.
0:18:15 > 0:18:18- That's true. Isn't it fantastic?
0:18:18 > 0:18:23- It looks like a 1930s house, - but it was built in 1941...
0:18:24 > 0:18:26- ..when World War II was raging.
0:18:26 > 0:18:29- It was built for the staff - of a local Mold factory.
0:18:30 > 0:18:34- It was an ICI factory - - Imperial Chemical Industries.
0:18:34 > 0:18:37- They were developing mustard gas, - and such nasties.
0:18:38 > 0:18:42- They were also working on - a secret project to split the atom.
0:18:42 > 0:18:44- They split the atom in Mold!
0:18:44 > 0:18:46- The scientists lived here.
0:18:46 > 0:18:49- This period - has some interesting features.
0:18:50 > 0:18:54- Take this corner, for example, - built with curved bricks.
0:18:54 > 0:18:56- Yes, it's totally modernist.
0:18:57 > 0:19:01- Across the street, you'll see - some typical 1930s houses.
0:19:02 > 0:19:04- It's a stunning contrast.
0:19:04 > 0:19:08- Modernists - like Le Corbusier and Bauhaus...
0:19:08 > 0:19:12- ..built houses on the continent - during the 1920s.
0:19:12 > 0:19:16- This was built in 1941, and it's - modern enough to be built today.
0:19:16 > 0:19:19- There's a lot of concrete - in this house.
0:19:20 > 0:19:25- Concrete wasn't a new material, - but it was rarely used in houses.
0:19:26 > 0:19:30- It does have a concrete structure, - though it looks like a brick house.
0:19:31 > 0:19:34- There's hardly any wood - in this house.
0:19:34 > 0:19:37- These are local, curved - Buckley bricks.
0:19:37 > 0:19:41- This design reflected the lifestyle - of the 1930s and 1940s.
0:19:42 > 0:19:46- These designs were new - and very, very modern.
0:20:01 > 0:20:04- Catrin Davies and her family - live in Eirianell.
0:20:07 > 0:20:10- You've done quite a lot of work - to the house.
0:20:10 > 0:20:14- Yes, we built the extension - two years ago.
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- It has given us a new kitchen - and a new bedroom.
0:20:19 > 0:20:21- Was it important to you...
0:20:21 > 0:20:26- ..to make sure the extension matched - the style of the original house?
0:20:26 > 0:20:30- Yes, although we struggled - to find a similar brick.
0:20:30 > 0:20:33- They don't make Buckley Bricks - any more...
0:20:33 > 0:20:37- ..but a company from Warrington - made the bricks for us.
0:20:37 > 0:20:42- The original bricks are narrow and - finding something to match was hard.
0:20:43 > 0:20:46- The house had steel framed windows, - originally.
0:20:47 > 0:20:51- You made a valiant effort - to replicate the pattern.
0:20:52 > 0:20:56- Was it important to have windows - which wrapped around the corner?
0:20:57 > 0:20:59- We thought it suited the house.
0:21:00 > 0:21:03- Which feature of the house - is your favourite?
0:21:04 > 0:21:07- The stairs, - with all that natural light.
0:21:07 > 0:21:09- Half way up the stairs...
0:21:09 > 0:21:13- ..and we see the curved wall - with the glass bricks.
0:21:13 > 0:21:16- The glass bricks run along the roof.
0:21:16 > 0:21:17- It's a great design.
0:21:18 > 0:21:21- It reminds me of a 1930s cinema.
0:21:23 > 0:21:26- We link such architecture - with public buildings.
0:21:27 > 0:21:32- Planning permission for a house like - this was rarely granted in Wales.
0:21:32 > 0:21:35- It's unusual to see glass bricks.
0:21:35 > 0:21:41- From the outside, it looks like - one continuous wall of glass...
0:21:42 > 0:21:45- ..but inside, - you have a series of pillars.
0:21:46 > 0:21:49- The glass bricks - have been placed in front of them.
0:21:51 > 0:21:52- I hadn't noticed that.
0:21:52 > 0:21:54- Well done, Aled!
0:21:54 > 0:21:56- It's also very solid.
0:21:56 > 0:21:58- These are all concrete walls.
0:21:58 > 0:22:01- The stairs - are also made of concrete.
0:22:02 > 0:22:04- It's all concrete.
0:22:05 > 0:22:07- There's very little wood here.
0:22:07 > 0:22:11- The idea was that this house - could withstand an aerial attack.
0:22:12 > 0:22:15- What I've learnt from this series...
0:22:15 > 0:22:19- ..is that heritage is something - which develops every day.
0:22:19 > 0:22:23- Things we see today - will be valuable tomorrow.
0:22:23 > 0:22:25- This house should be listed.
0:22:25 > 0:22:29- Yes, but CADW hasn't listed - any of the houses on this street.
0:22:30 > 0:22:32- They considered it 15 years ago...
0:22:33 > 0:22:37- ..when the houses - still had their original windows.
0:22:37 > 0:22:41- Many of the original windows - have now been lost...
0:22:42 > 0:22:46- ..and along with them an important - part of the architecture of Mold.
0:22:47 > 0:22:50- They are historically important.
0:22:50 > 0:22:54- The scientists who lived here - worked on splitting the atom...
0:22:55 > 0:22:58- ..a project which ultimately - shaped history.
0:23:14 > 0:23:17- Among all the notable buildings - of Mold...
0:23:17 > 0:23:22- ..this is the one most people - would expect you not to feature!
0:23:22 > 0:23:24- I'm very fond of this building.
0:23:25 > 0:23:30- It was built in 1968 by - the county architect, Robert Harvey.
0:23:30 > 0:23:31- Harvey isn't famous...
0:23:32 > 0:23:36- ..but this group of buildings - designed by him is a huge success.
0:23:37 > 0:23:42- His confident, strong design uses - concrete and small glass tiles.
0:23:42 > 0:23:44- It looks fantastic.
0:23:45 > 0:23:48- Everyone who goes past here - notices this building.
0:23:49 > 0:23:54- Yes, but do they say, "County Hall - is a magnificent building!"
0:23:55 > 0:23:57- "We embrace it and praise it!"
0:23:57 > 0:23:58- If not, why not?
0:23:59 > 0:24:03- Mold's civic buildings - built in the early 20th century...
0:24:05 > 0:24:07- ..replicated Georgian designs.
0:24:08 > 0:24:12- Rather than look back, - county architects looked forward...
0:24:12 > 0:24:14- ..in the 1960s and the 1970s.
0:24:15 > 0:24:17- They looked to the future, - not the past.
0:24:18 > 0:24:22- This building reflects a new world - and a new way of life.
0:24:48 > 0:24:51- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:24:51 > 0:24:51- .