Ifor a'r Afon Ganga

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0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888

0:00:00 > 0:00:02- 888- - 888

0:00:07 > 0:00:09- According to the Hindu faith...

0:00:09 > 0:00:12- ..the Ganga - or Ganges - - is the world's holiest river.

0:00:14 > 0:00:18- Bathing in the river - purifies your soul.

0:00:20 > 0:00:24- Dying on its banks - safeguards your place in heaven.

0:00:28 > 0:00:31- But if the river - is spiritually important...

0:00:31 > 0:00:35- ..it's also crucial - for the daily life of its people.

0:00:35 > 0:00:39- The Ganga and its tributaries - provide fresh water...

0:00:39 > 0:00:42- ..for half a billion Indian people.

0:00:43 > 0:00:48- I've come to India to follow - the river and meet its people.

0:00:48 > 0:00:51- My journey takes me - from the Himalayas...

0:00:52 > 0:00:54- ..to the country's holiest city.

0:00:54 > 0:00:57- I'll meet people - from all walks of life...

0:00:58 > 0:01:02- ..who rely on the river - for their livelihood.

0:01:02 > 0:01:04- On hearing their stories...

0:01:05 > 0:01:08- ..there's cause for concern - for the future.

0:01:08 > 0:01:11- India is in danger - of destroying the river...

0:01:12 > 0:01:16- ..that gives meaning to its faith - and life to its land.

0:01:38 > 0:01:43- For millions of Indians, life would - be impossible without the Ganga.

0:01:51 > 0:01:55- From its source in the Himalayas - to its delta in Bengal...

0:01:56 > 0:01:59- ..it flows over 1,500 miles - across northern India.

0:02:00 > 0:02:02- Along with the rivers - which flow into it...

0:02:02 > 0:02:05- ..the Ganga sustains - half the country's population.

0:02:06 > 0:02:10- For the Hindu faith, there is - a wider appeal for the river.

0:02:10 > 0:02:14- The river is the physical form - of the goddess Ganga.

0:02:16 > 0:02:18- It is a holy river.

0:02:25 > 0:02:28- For the past thousands of years...

0:02:28 > 0:02:33- ..Ganga has been the basis - of the country's culture and faith.

0:02:33 > 0:02:38- The history of the river and - that of the country is inseparable.

0:02:38 > 0:02:40- On my journey down the river...

0:02:41 > 0:02:44- ..I hope to grasp its importance - to the people of India...

0:02:44 > 0:02:47- ..and the dangers it faces.

0:02:51 > 0:02:54- First, I must reach - the river's source.

0:02:54 > 0:02:59- I'm heading to a little village - called Gangotri in the Himalayas.

0:03:03 > 0:03:06- As you can see, - India is a vast country.

0:03:07 > 0:03:09- We're here in Delhi.

0:03:09 > 0:03:12- We need to travel north to Gangotri.

0:03:12 > 0:03:15- On this map, - it's only a short journey...

0:03:15 > 0:03:18- ..but in this car, - it will take 19 hours.

0:03:18 > 0:03:20- So, let's go!

0:03:27 > 0:03:31- There's no way of avoiding - the hustle and bustle of India.

0:03:35 > 0:03:37- There are people everywhere.

0:03:41 > 0:03:46- The river's natural fertility - feeds these colourful crowds.

0:03:52 > 0:03:54- That's why they worship the river.

0:03:56 > 0:03:58- According to Hindu scriptures...

0:03:58 > 0:04:01- ..the Ganga used to flow in heaven.

0:04:01 > 0:04:05- It agreed to descend to earth - to help mankind...

0:04:05 > 0:04:09- ..by purifying the ashes - of the dead and resurrecting them.

0:04:10 > 0:04:15- To prevent the planet's destruction - as the Ganga descended to earth...

0:04:16 > 0:04:20- ..another God, Shiva, would absorb - the river's energy in his hair.

0:04:25 > 0:04:30- Today, Gangotri has grown around the - location where this all happened...

0:04:30 > 0:04:32- ..according to the legend.

0:04:33 > 0:04:37- During the winter, - it's impossible to reach Gangotri...

0:04:37 > 0:04:40- ..since the roads - are covered in snow.

0:04:41 > 0:04:45- Once spring arrives, - the snow starts to melt...

0:04:45 > 0:04:48- ..and pilgrims flock to the area.

0:04:57 > 0:05:01- After a two-day journey - from Delhi...

0:05:01 > 0:05:03- ..I join the masses.

0:05:07 > 0:05:11- Reaching Gangotri in a 4x4 vehicle - was dangerous enough.

0:05:13 > 0:05:17- It's hard to imagine - how these pilgrims feel...

0:05:17 > 0:05:20- ..after making the journey - in jam-packed buses.

0:05:25 > 0:05:29- Since Gangotri is three times higher - than the summit of Snowdon...

0:05:30 > 0:05:35- ..it's very cold here at daybreak - before the sun rises overhead.

0:05:39 > 0:05:41- The pilgrims don't mind.

0:05:42 > 0:05:44- They have only one thing - on their minds.

0:05:45 > 0:05:47- They've reached their journey's end.

0:05:52 > 0:05:56- Here, according to legend, - Ganga descended to earth.

0:05:56 > 0:06:00- That's why pilgrims flock here - in their thousands...

0:06:00 > 0:06:02- ..to bathe and worship.

0:06:04 > 0:06:09- Just as the goddess Ganga arrived - to purify the ashes of the dead...

0:06:09 > 0:06:14- ..these pilgrims believe the river - will wash away their sins.

0:06:17 > 0:06:21- After bathing, - some pay local priests...

0:06:21 > 0:06:24- ..to perform - thanksgiving ceremonies...

0:06:24 > 0:06:26- ..in the river.

0:06:27 > 0:06:31- For a few rupees, a few pennies...

0:06:31 > 0:06:35- ..this man offers the goddess Ganga - an oblation on my behalf.

0:06:37 > 0:06:42- He blesses my family - and my journey along the river.

0:06:46 > 0:06:49- The blessing is - in a foreign language...

0:06:49 > 0:06:53- ..but sharing this ceremony - is quite an experience.

0:06:53 > 0:06:55- As Muhammad Ali once said...

0:06:56 > 0:06:58- .."Rivers, ponds, lakes and streams.

0:06:58 > 0:07:02- "They have different names - but all contain water."

0:07:02 > 0:07:06- The world's religions are the same.

0:07:06 > 0:07:09- They all have different names...

0:07:09 > 0:07:13- ..but they all contain truth.

0:07:26 > 0:07:31- Here in Gangotri, since the river - flows fresh from the mountain...

0:07:31 > 0:07:35- ..people believe the water can - purify even the most sinful soul.

0:07:35 > 0:07:40- That's why pilgrims travel - so far to reach here.

0:07:42 > 0:07:46- The most dedicated - don't arrive by bus.

0:07:47 > 0:07:49- They walk - every step of the way.

0:07:51 > 0:07:55- These people are called sadhus.

0:07:55 > 0:07:57- Sadhu literally means good man.

0:07:58 > 0:08:00- There are 5 million sadhus in India.

0:08:00 > 0:08:04- They are pilgrims who have forgone - the material world...

0:08:04 > 0:08:06- ..to worship the gods.

0:08:08 > 0:08:11- They wear orange as a symbol - of their poverty.

0:08:12 > 0:08:14- Sadhus survive on charity.

0:08:15 > 0:08:20- Some cover themselves in ash to show - the strength of their conviction.

0:08:20 > 0:08:25- For sadhus, toiling along - the long road to Gangotri...

0:08:25 > 0:08:29- ..is a sign of their commitment - to the goddess Ganga.

0:08:32 > 0:08:35- However, - for the most committed pilgrims...

0:08:35 > 0:08:37- ..Gangotri is not - the end of the journey.

0:08:37 > 0:08:42- This is the source of the river - according to Hindu scriptures...

0:08:42 > 0:08:47- ..but these days, the Ganga starts - ten miles in that direction...

0:08:47 > 0:08:49- ..in the mountains - around the Gamukh glacier.

0:08:52 > 0:08:55- The literal meaning of Gamukh - is cow's mouth.

0:08:56 > 0:09:00- It describes the cave - where the Ganga starts its journey.

0:09:00 > 0:09:03- Here, the river is cream in colour.

0:09:06 > 0:09:09- Over time, - the source of the river moves...

0:09:10 > 0:09:13- ..as the glaciers that feed it - melt away.

0:09:19 > 0:09:23- Back in Gangotri, I meet a man - who has witnessed these changes...

0:09:24 > 0:09:25- ..during his lifetime.

0:09:29 > 0:09:32- Swami Sundaranand is 81 years old.

0:09:32 > 0:09:36- He first arrived in Gangotri - when he was a young man.

0:09:41 > 0:09:44- I arrived in Gangotri in 1948.

0:09:44 > 0:09:49- Gangotri is 10,300 feet - above sea level.

0:09:51 > 0:09:54- The flowers which grew here then...

0:09:54 > 0:09:58- ..the deer and the brown and white - bears, have all disappeared.

0:09:59 > 0:10:01- Now, an entire town - has been built here.

0:10:06 > 0:10:10- For the past 60 years, - he has recorded all these changes...

0:10:10 > 0:10:12- ..using his camera.

0:10:19 > 0:10:23- From left to right, this is - a panorama of eight photographs.

0:10:26 > 0:10:29- Behind the summit of Shivling - is the Meru glacier.

0:10:32 > 0:10:36- It meets the Gangotri glacier here.

0:10:37 > 0:10:43- The Gangotri glacier in Gamukh - has retreated three kilometres...

0:10:44 > 0:10:46- ..and decreased by one kilometre.

0:10:49 > 0:10:52- The Gangotri glacier is melting.

0:10:53 > 0:10:56- It retreats 25 metres each year...

0:10:56 > 0:11:01- ..which explains the confusion - about the source of the Ganga.

0:11:04 > 0:11:07- Today, the river - begins its journey in Gamukh.

0:11:08 > 0:11:12- 4,000 years ago, when the Hindu - scriptures were first written...

0:11:12 > 0:11:17- ..the glacier stretched for miles - further down the valley.

0:11:19 > 0:11:24- That's why people believe that Ganga - descended to earth in Gangotri.

0:11:29 > 0:11:35- When the earth was formed, when the - Himalayas and glaciers were born...

0:11:35 > 0:11:38- ..the Gamukh glacier started here.

0:11:40 > 0:11:44- Because of global warming, - deforestation and fire...

0:11:44 > 0:11:46- ..as a result of modern living...

0:11:46 > 0:11:49- ..the wildlife has disappeared...

0:11:49 > 0:11:53- ..and the Gamukh glacier - is retreating further and further.

0:12:00 > 0:12:02- Within 50 years...

0:12:02 > 0:12:05- ..the eternal glacier - will disappear.

0:12:05 > 0:12:09- India and the whole world will long - for the smallest drop of water...

0:12:10 > 0:12:11- ..from the Ganga.

0:12:13 > 0:12:16- It's hard to imagine this today...

0:12:16 > 0:12:20- ..but scientists agree that - Swami Sundaranand speaks the truth.

0:12:21 > 0:12:27- Scientists predict that the glaciers - could retreat even faster.

0:12:27 > 0:12:32- They could all melt - as early as 2035.

0:12:32 > 0:12:37- Then, the source of the Ganga - would disappear.

0:12:45 > 0:12:48- My journey, like the Ganga...

0:12:49 > 0:12:51- ..continues for the time being.

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0:13:04 > 0:13:07- From Gangotri, I follow the Ganga...

0:13:07 > 0:13:12- ..as it plunges down the mountains - towards northern India...

0:13:12 > 0:13:14- ..and the holy city of Haridwar.

0:13:18 > 0:13:21- The river descends - about 13,000 feet...

0:13:22 > 0:13:24- ..between Gangotri and Haridwar.

0:13:24 > 0:13:28- As you can see, - the Ganga is far too ferocious...

0:13:28 > 0:13:31- ..for me to think - about travelling on it.

0:13:31 > 0:13:33- We have to stick to the road.

0:13:33 > 0:13:36- From what I've seen, - it's just as dangerous.

0:13:43 > 0:13:47- The road is narrow, - and the drop below is frightening.

0:13:47 > 0:13:52- In places, the road - has worn away to almost nothing.

0:13:52 > 0:13:56- Other vehicles meet us - at almost every corner.

0:13:56 > 0:14:01- Bus after bus, packed with pilgrims - on their way to or from Gangotri.

0:14:01 > 0:14:05- There's hardly any room - for two horses on this road...

0:14:06 > 0:14:08- ..let alone two vehicles.

0:14:09 > 0:14:14- At least the Government has erected - signs to warn you of the dangers.

0:14:15 > 0:14:19- As the sun sets, I relax a little.

0:14:20 > 0:14:23- At least I can't see - the sheer drop in the darkness.

0:14:33 > 0:14:37- After spending the night in a tent - on the riverbank...

0:14:37 > 0:14:41- ..I stretch my legs - before returning to the car.

0:14:45 > 0:14:48- The riverbank is a hive of activity.

0:14:49 > 0:14:53- Men use the river as a quarry - to collect stones for construction.

0:14:57 > 0:15:01- A mother and her children - wash clothes in the water.

0:15:02 > 0:15:05- In these valleys, - there is little else.

0:15:05 > 0:15:10- The river is the only source - of fresh water...

0:15:10 > 0:15:13- ..for locals and their animals.

0:15:21 > 0:15:25- However, there are other benefits - to be found here.

0:15:26 > 0:15:30- The river's sand sparkles brightly.

0:15:31 > 0:15:35- This is caused by the minerals which - are washed down from the mountains.

0:15:35 > 0:15:39- It's carried as nourishment - and deposited on land...

0:15:39 > 0:15:43- ..as the Ganga winds its way - down to the sea.

0:15:43 > 0:15:47- That allows it to feed the millions - along its riverbank.

0:15:49 > 0:15:54- No wonder people think about - the Ganga as a divine being...

0:15:54 > 0:15:57- ..which brings so many blessings.

0:16:02 > 0:16:05- Finally, I reach Haridwar.

0:16:05 > 0:16:12- It's taken two days to travel - 140 miles from Gangotri to Haridwar.

0:16:14 > 0:16:19- It's an easier journey the - other way, along the Indian plains.

0:16:19 > 0:16:23- Each year, this town - attracts 18 million visitors.

0:16:25 > 0:16:29- Since so many people visit - to bathe in the water...

0:16:29 > 0:16:31- ..these steps, or ghats, - were built...

0:16:32 > 0:16:35- ..to help pilgrims - in and out of the water.

0:16:35 > 0:16:37- This is the Har-Ki-Pauri.

0:16:38 > 0:16:40- It is a special ghat.

0:16:40 > 0:16:44- This is where - the young, energetic river...

0:16:44 > 0:16:47- ..leaves the mountains - and comes of age...

0:16:47 > 0:16:52- ..stretching majestically - along the northern Indian plains.

0:16:52 > 0:16:55- This is a holy place.

0:17:00 > 0:17:04- However, take care before plunging - into the river here.

0:17:08 > 0:17:11- In Haridwar, - the current is so strong...

0:17:11 > 0:17:15- ..that many people are washed away - and drown every year.

0:17:20 > 0:17:24- But since every Hindu is expected - to visit the Ganga...

0:17:24 > 0:17:27- ..at least once in their life...

0:17:28 > 0:17:31- ..families come here - to fulfil their duties.

0:17:31 > 0:17:35- The town flourishes - thanks to its tourist trade.

0:17:36 > 0:17:40- On the banks of the river, - there are numerous priests...

0:17:41 > 0:17:44- ..who perform ceremonies - for visitors.

0:17:44 > 0:17:47- One of the most important - is the mundan.

0:17:50 > 0:17:54- During this ceremony, one-year-old - children have their heads shaved.

0:17:57 > 0:18:01- According to the Hindu faith, - a baby's first hair...

0:18:01 > 0:18:06- ..represents the sins - we performed in a previous life.

0:18:06 > 0:18:10- To ensure we don't carry our sins...

0:18:10 > 0:18:15- ..from the past to the present, - the priest shaves the baby...

0:18:15 > 0:18:18- ..and offers it to the Ganga - for purification.

0:18:20 > 0:18:25- Families make a huge effort to - ensure that the mundan ceremony...

0:18:25 > 0:18:27- ..happens on the riverbank.

0:18:33 > 0:18:35- Before leaving Haridwar...

0:18:35 > 0:18:37- ..I buy a gift as a memento.

0:18:39 > 0:18:42- These pots contain water - from the river.

0:18:42 > 0:18:45- They are called Ganga jals.

0:18:49 > 0:18:52- This is no ordinary mineral water.

0:18:52 > 0:18:55- This isn't something to drink.

0:18:55 > 0:18:58- This is something to be used - drop by drop.

0:19:02 > 0:19:06- Hindus believe that - the smallest drop of Ganga jal...

0:19:06 > 0:19:09- ..in your bath is both - beneficial for your health...

0:19:10 > 0:19:13- ..and eliminates all your sins.

0:19:17 > 0:19:21- While tourists like me - pay for the pretty packaging...

0:19:21 > 0:19:24- ..locals are far more sensible.

0:19:24 > 0:19:28- They buy plastic bottles - and fill them themselves.

0:19:31 > 0:19:34- It is claimed - that a bottle of Ganga jal...

0:19:34 > 0:19:36- ..stays fresh for years once opened.

0:19:37 > 0:19:41- Some claim that mosquitoes - can't live in the river's waters.

0:19:42 > 0:19:48- For Hindus, this is proof that the - goddess Ganga is alive and well...

0:19:48 > 0:19:50- ..in the river itself.

0:19:55 > 0:19:58- As night draws in over Haridwar...

0:19:58 > 0:20:03- ..pilgrims gather for the nightly - prayer service - the Ganga arti.

0:20:03 > 0:20:06- It literally means - the worship of the river.

0:20:08 > 0:20:12- There are a number of stages - in the ceremony.

0:20:12 > 0:20:16- It is a request for a blessing - on one's whole family.

0:20:17 > 0:20:22- I was asked to chant - "Om shivaya Ganga devaya namaha"...

0:20:22 > 0:20:25- ..to make the blessing - more effective.

0:20:31 > 0:20:35- It was odd being part of a ceremony - without understanding a single word.

0:20:35 > 0:20:40- After all, in our tradition, - the Word is all-important.

0:20:40 > 0:20:43- It was a pleasant experience - nonetheless.

0:20:50 > 0:20:54- In the middle of such - a mass expression of faith...

0:20:54 > 0:20:59- ..it was hard not to think about - the pollution of modern life...

0:20:59 > 0:21:03- ..which threatens this holy river - as it flows.

0:21:16 > 0:21:20- The following day, - I follow the river...

0:21:21 > 0:21:25- ..over the northern Indian plains.

0:21:30 > 0:21:33- After the winding roads - of the Himalayas...

0:21:33 > 0:21:36- ..it's nice to be - on a straight road.

0:21:36 > 0:21:39- It's also nice being inside the car.

0:21:44 > 0:21:48- I've reached some - of the most fertile land in Asia.

0:21:48 > 0:21:51- This is all thanks to the Ganga.

0:21:52 > 0:21:55- As the river flows down - from the mountains...

0:21:56 > 0:21:59- ..the silt that's carried - in the water...

0:21:59 > 0:22:02- ..is deposited over the fields - and fertilizes the land.

0:22:14 > 0:22:17- The natural fertility - of the river...

0:22:17 > 0:22:20- ..also sustains a different type - of fertility.

0:22:21 > 0:22:23- Here, in Uttar Pradesh...

0:22:23 > 0:22:27- ..India's population growth - is at its most intense.

0:22:27 > 0:22:31- In the middle of this bustling - market, it's plain to see.

0:22:32 > 0:22:35- If this growth continues, - India, not China...

0:22:35 > 0:22:39- ..will become the world's most - populated country in 20 years' time.

0:22:40 > 0:22:43- This sudden increase - threatens the river.

0:22:46 > 0:22:48- India's industry and economy...

0:22:48 > 0:22:51- ..is growing as quickly - as its population.

0:22:52 > 0:22:53- It is poisoning the river...

0:22:54 > 0:22:56- ..and the people who rely on it.

0:22:57 > 0:22:57- .

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0:23:07 > 0:23:11- Kanpur is the first large city - on the Ganga.

0:23:14 > 0:23:19- It's home to 3 million people - and a flourishing leather industry.

0:23:24 > 0:23:28- The city has been built on India's - most fertile agricultural land...

0:23:29 > 0:23:33- ..giving it a plentiful supply - of animal skin.

0:23:35 > 0:23:38- There are over 350 tanneries - in Kanpur...

0:23:38 > 0:23:43- ..producing leather - worth 200m per annum.

0:23:46 > 0:23:49- However, for the people - who live and work here...

0:23:49 > 0:23:54- ..the poisonous waste of - the factories threatens their lives.

0:23:57 > 0:24:01- With poisonous smoke - rising from the chimneys...

0:24:02 > 0:24:07- ..the number of people with lung - disease is extremely high here.

0:24:11 > 0:24:14- The effect on the river - is just as serious.

0:24:22 > 0:24:27- Legally, the tanneries must treat - their waste before disposing it...

0:24:28 > 0:24:31- ..but more than half don't.

0:24:31 > 0:24:34- All kinds of pollution - enter the river...

0:24:35 > 0:24:38- ..from animal hides - to carcinogenic chemicals.

0:24:39 > 0:24:42- They flow from the gutters - straight into the river.

0:24:48 > 0:24:53- A few kilometres from Kanpur - is the fishing village of Nadar Pur.

0:24:54 > 0:24:56- It's an entirely different world.

0:24:56 > 0:25:00- It's the cleanest - and tidiest place along the Ganga.

0:25:00 > 0:25:03- However, there is a problem here...

0:25:03 > 0:25:07- ..which I noticed - as I watched the villagers fish.

0:25:12 > 0:25:16- Kishan Pal Kashyap has been - a fisherman throughout his life.

0:25:17 > 0:25:20- He explained to me - how things had changed.

0:25:20 > 0:25:23- We used to watch our fathers - fishing here.

0:25:24 > 0:25:28- They had to take their fish home - in buffalo carts.

0:25:29 > 0:25:33- They would catch big fish - weighing 20 kilos.

0:25:33 > 0:25:36- It was impossible - to carry them sometimes.

0:25:39 > 0:25:43- Then, as we grew up, - fish numbers dwindled.

0:25:45 > 0:25:48- Some species don't swim here - any more...

0:25:48 > 0:25:51- ..because of the filthy water - in Kanpur.

0:25:51 > 0:25:55- Sometimes, we find piles - of dead fish on the riverbank.

0:25:55 > 0:25:57- It stinks here.

0:26:04 > 0:26:08- One of the few fish - that can still live in the water...

0:26:09 > 0:26:10- ..is this one.

0:26:11 > 0:26:13- The rohu.

0:26:13 > 0:26:16- When these are caught, - their flesh is poisoned.

0:26:20 > 0:26:24- Sometimes, we think, - "OK, there's nothing else."

0:26:24 > 0:26:26- "We'll eat this."

0:26:26 > 0:26:30- But the flesh is disgusting - - it makes our children ill.

0:26:35 > 0:26:38- The people of Nadar Pur - know better than most...

0:26:38 > 0:26:41- ..about the effect of pollution - on the Ganga...

0:26:41 > 0:26:43- ..but they can't escape from it.

0:26:43 > 0:26:47- They rely on the river - to sustain them.

0:26:49 > 0:26:51- When we're out fishing...

0:26:52 > 0:26:55- ..this is the only water - we can drink.

0:26:56 > 0:26:59- When you place your hand - in the water, it stinks.

0:26:59 > 0:27:02- You can feel the animal fat - floating in it.

0:27:03 > 0:27:06- Your hand is filthy - and the water is disgusting.

0:27:06 > 0:27:10- It makes you sick. - It's not fit for human consumption.

0:27:11 > 0:27:15- When you cup a handful of water, - you can see the animal fat.

0:27:20 > 0:27:22- The Ganga is so polluted...

0:27:22 > 0:27:26- ..it's impossible to make a living - as an angler.

0:27:27 > 0:27:30- Kishan has turned to farming...

0:27:30 > 0:27:34- ..but even the land - has been poisoned by the river...

0:27:34 > 0:27:37- ..as the crops are irrigated by it.

0:27:41 > 0:27:45- We want to use the sand to grow - cucumbers, melons and vegetables.

0:27:45 > 0:27:49- When you plant seeds in the soil, - they don't germinate.

0:27:49 > 0:27:54- If they do germinate, - the plant grows to a certain size...

0:27:54 > 0:27:56- ..and then dies.

0:28:00 > 0:28:03- That's the way it is. - Life is hell for us.

0:28:09 > 0:28:12- The future is bleak - for Kishan and his family...

0:28:13 > 0:28:15- ..and Kanpur's - leather industry grows.

0:28:21 > 0:28:26- The economic growth attracts - thousands of people to the city.

0:28:27 > 0:28:30- This only serves - to exacerbate the problem.

0:28:31 > 0:28:36- The population of Kanpur - produce their own pollution.

0:28:36 > 0:28:38- Tonnes of sewage every day.

0:28:39 > 0:28:43- Much of it is poured - straight into the river.

0:28:55 > 0:28:59- Here in Kanpur, like many - other areas along the Ganga...

0:29:00 > 0:29:02- ..bathing is important - to local Hindus.

0:29:03 > 0:29:06- Myself - I wouldn't dip - my big toe in this river...

0:29:06 > 0:29:10- ..because I know that - the city's main sewage pipe...

0:29:10 > 0:29:13- ..empties its contents - into the river over there.

0:29:21 > 0:29:23- Here, in the city's hospital...

0:29:24 > 0:29:27- ..the effect of Kanpur's pollution - can be clearly seen.

0:29:28 > 0:29:33- About 300 people come here daily - for treatment for lung diseases...

0:29:33 > 0:29:36- ..caused by pollution in the air.

0:29:38 > 0:29:42- Even more contract illnesses - carried in the river's waters.

0:29:45 > 0:29:49- Women and children suffer the most.

0:29:52 > 0:29:56- Dr Kiran Pandey is an obstetrician.

0:29:56 > 0:30:02- She sees first-hand the effect - pollution has on the population.

0:30:05 > 0:30:08- If the water is polluted - and people drink it...

0:30:08 > 0:30:10- ..pollution enters the body.

0:30:12 > 0:30:14- Parasites live in the water.

0:30:15 > 0:30:18- Diarrhoea and viral diseases - come from the water.

0:30:23 > 0:30:27- In addition to the diseases - carried in the water...

0:30:27 > 0:30:29- ..the river is full of chemicals.

0:30:32 > 0:30:35- The water people drink is treated...

0:30:35 > 0:30:40- ..but it contains high levels - of chromium which can cause cancer.

0:30:40 > 0:30:42- The untreated water...

0:30:42 > 0:30:45- ..the water - which irrigates the crops...

0:30:46 > 0:30:51- ..contains 64 times more arsenic - and 120 times more mercury...

0:30:51 > 0:30:54- ..than international guidelines - permit.

0:30:56 > 0:30:59- These chemicals - not only cause illnesses...

0:31:00 > 0:31:03- ..but they also destroy - the nourishment in the crops.

0:31:04 > 0:31:07- For these women, - polluted water leads to a poor diet.

0:31:09 > 0:31:13- About half the patients - have anaemia.

0:31:13 > 0:31:18- In a healthy person, the level - of haemoglobin in the blood...

0:31:18 > 0:31:21- ..is between 11 and 13 milligrams.

0:31:22 > 0:31:25- In India, - and this area in particular...

0:31:25 > 0:31:28- ..where there are - nourishment problems...

0:31:28 > 0:31:33- ..we often see people with levels - between one and three milligrams.

0:31:35 > 0:31:38- This affects a child's growth - in the womb.

0:31:38 > 0:31:42- It could lead to women - giving birth prematurely...

0:31:42 > 0:31:46- ..babies with low birth weight - and babies who die at birth.

0:31:52 > 0:31:58- The polluted river is responsible - for many deaths in Kanpur.

0:32:01 > 0:32:04- But the people can't afford - to protest too much.

0:32:04 > 0:32:08- The wealth of the tanneries - drives the local economy.

0:32:09 > 0:32:12- If the river is polluted...

0:32:12 > 0:32:14- ..well, so be it.

0:32:17 > 0:32:21- Further down the river, there - are cities where the economy...

0:32:22 > 0:32:25- ..relies just as much on pilgrims - as it does on industry.

0:32:26 > 0:32:31- Here, the polluted Ganga - is an enormous problem.

0:32:33 > 0:32:38- From Kanpur, I follow the Ganga - to the holy town of Allahabad.

0:32:40 > 0:32:44- This is where the Yamuna - joins the Ganga...

0:32:44 > 0:32:47- ..and the invisible Saraswati.

0:32:47 > 0:32:51- According to the Hindu scriptures...

0:32:51 > 0:32:54- ..the gods and the devil - fought here...

0:32:54 > 0:32:59- ..releasing some - eternal nourishment in Allahabad.

0:33:00 > 0:33:02- It's busy here today...

0:33:02 > 0:33:06- ..but it's even busier when - the festival of Kumbh Mela is held.

0:33:07 > 0:33:10- It attracts millions of people - who bathe in the river.

0:33:13 > 0:33:17- The Kumbh Mela of 2007 - attracted 70 million people.

0:33:18 > 0:33:22- It was possibly - the world's largest gathering.

0:33:25 > 0:33:29- The most important event - of the festival is the royal bath.

0:33:29 > 0:33:33- Pilgrims who bathe - during this ceremony...

0:33:33 > 0:33:36- ..grant the goddess Ganga - an important favour.

0:33:36 > 0:33:41- When she agreed to descend to earth - to purify mankind...

0:33:41 > 0:33:44- ..she asked who would purify her?

0:33:45 > 0:33:49- It was decided that the sadhus - would undertake the work.

0:33:49 > 0:33:51- This is the royal bath.

0:33:53 > 0:33:57- As they bathe, - sadhus absorb the river's sins...

0:33:57 > 0:33:59- ..into themselves.

0:34:03 > 0:34:07- During the 2007 Kumbh Mela, - things didn't go to plan.

0:34:09 > 0:34:13- Because of the pollution and rubbish - floating in the Ganga...

0:34:14 > 0:34:18- ..pilgrims were so fed up, - they refused to bathe...

0:34:18 > 0:34:22- ..until the authorities - cleaned the waters.

0:34:23 > 0:34:25- Some threatened to kill themselves.

0:34:27 > 0:34:31- In panic, the authorities - opened a dam further up the river...

0:34:31 > 0:34:35- ..to increase the flow - and wash away some of the pollution.

0:34:36 > 0:34:39- The sadhus backed down - and the festival continued.

0:34:44 > 0:34:48- Their protest was an important - milestone in the river's history.

0:34:48 > 0:34:53- Even the most religious pilgrims - were ready to compromise...

0:34:53 > 0:34:56- ..their faith - in the river's purity...

0:34:56 > 0:34:59- ..because of the true condition - of the water.

0:35:04 > 0:35:06- As I approach - the end of my journey...

0:35:06 > 0:35:09- ..this is the paradox - that sticks in my mind.

0:35:10 > 0:35:14- Why do people who worship the river - so readily pollute it?

0:35:16 > 0:35:16- .

0:35:20 > 0:35:20- 888

0:35:20 > 0:35:22- 888- - 888

0:35:28 > 0:35:33- The holy city of Varanasi is - journey's end for me and the Ganga.

0:35:34 > 0:35:36- And for countless others.

0:35:42 > 0:35:44- It's 80 miles from Allahabad - to Varanasi.

0:35:45 > 0:35:48- It's the last resting place - for many Hindus.

0:35:53 > 0:35:57- It has its own university - and silk industry...

0:35:57 > 0:36:00- ..but these aren't - the city's main attractions.

0:36:01 > 0:36:03- I knew before arriving...

0:36:04 > 0:36:07- ..that Varanasi was one - of the Ganga's holiest cities.

0:36:08 > 0:36:12- There are over a hundred ghats - along the riverbank for pilgrims...

0:36:12 > 0:36:15- ..but I didn't expect - the city to be so beautiful.

0:36:18 > 0:36:22- Apparently, the Ganga - cherished this city so much...

0:36:22 > 0:36:26- ..it turned back on itself - so that it could stay here.

0:36:28 > 0:36:32- Staying here is the aim - of many since then.

0:36:34 > 0:36:37- They say that if you die - on the banks of the Ganga...

0:36:37 > 0:36:41- ..in Varanasi, your soul - rises straight to heaven.

0:36:41 > 0:36:45- Because of this, - many old and sick people...

0:36:45 > 0:36:48- ..flock here to live out - their final days.

0:36:51 > 0:36:53- This is true of these women.

0:36:54 > 0:36:58- While they stay here, - for months or years on end...

0:36:59 > 0:37:03- ..they are looked after - by this man - Surendra Peasad.

0:37:07 > 0:37:11- The old people here believe - that if they distance themselves...

0:37:11 > 0:37:14- ..from their family, - they move closer to God.

0:37:14 > 0:37:19- If you sacrifice one thing, - you receive another.

0:37:19 > 0:37:22- People come here - to move closer to God.

0:37:28 > 0:37:31- Surendra cares for them - while they are alive...

0:37:32 > 0:37:34- ..and also after they die.

0:37:35 > 0:37:40- When these people die, Surendra - grants them their final wish...

0:37:40 > 0:37:44- ..by organizing their cremation - on the riverbank.

0:37:49 > 0:37:54- This is the Manikarnika ghat, - where most bodies are cremated.

0:37:56 > 0:38:00- Before even reaching the ghats, - I was sweating pints...

0:38:00 > 0:38:04- ..as the midday temperature - reached 45 degrees Celsius.

0:38:05 > 0:38:10- How difficult is life for the men - who build these bonfires...

0:38:10 > 0:38:12- ..day and night?

0:38:16 > 0:38:22- These men belong - to the untouchable caste.

0:38:24 > 0:38:25- In India...

0:38:26 > 0:38:29- ..the untouchables have - the lowest status of all castes...

0:38:30 > 0:38:31- ..but here, in Manikarnika...

0:38:32 > 0:38:34- ..they are respected by everyone.

0:38:39 > 0:38:43- Whether rich or poor, - from a high or low caste...

0:38:43 > 0:38:48- ..the dead rely on these workers - to help their souls reach heaven.

0:38:52 > 0:38:55- As I walk along - the back streets to the ghats...

0:38:55 > 0:38:59- ..Surendra explains - how the funeral system works.

0:39:04 > 0:39:06- For one payment of 1,000 rupees...

0:39:06 > 0:39:08- ..around 12...

0:39:08 > 0:39:12- ..you can buy as much firewood, - incense and manpower...

0:39:12 > 0:39:14- ..as you require.

0:39:24 > 0:39:29- Surendra invited me to watch - the ceremony from the sidelines.

0:39:30 > 0:39:34- There was something odd - in watching a stranger's funeral.

0:39:34 > 0:39:37- Then again, - amidst the hustle and bustle...

0:39:37 > 0:39:40- ..it was like attending - a public funeral.

0:39:45 > 0:39:48- After placing the corpses - on the bonfire...

0:39:48 > 0:39:52- ..the fire is lit - from a nearby eternal flame...

0:39:52 > 0:39:57- ..which, according to legend, - has been burning for an eternity.

0:39:59 > 0:40:05- In the meantime, the chief - mourner, usually the eldest son...

0:40:05 > 0:40:08- ..shaves his head - as a symbol of his loss.

0:40:10 > 0:40:15- Then, he lights the holy straw - from the eternal flame...

0:40:16 > 0:40:18- ..and ignites the bonfire.

0:40:25 > 0:40:29- In the heat of the fire, - the departed's soul...

0:40:29 > 0:40:31- ..rises to heaven.

0:40:41 > 0:40:46- Here, the ceremony of death - is surrounded by everyday life.

0:40:47 > 0:40:51- It's not pushed to the sidelines - as is the case in our culture.

0:40:51 > 0:40:57- Earlier, I saw a grandfather - barking swimming instructions...

0:40:57 > 0:40:59- ..to his grandson...

0:41:00 > 0:41:04- ..and corpses being burned - only a few yards away.

0:41:04 > 0:41:07- I can't imagine that happening - in Wales.

0:41:07 > 0:41:11- That's what I saw on the banks - of this remarkable river.

0:41:18 > 0:41:24- After the cremation, the ashes - are scattered on the river.

0:41:24 > 0:41:27- Mourners leave without looking back.

0:41:27 > 0:41:31- In the meantime, workers - rummage through the charcoal...

0:41:32 > 0:41:34- ..for gold teeth and other gems.

0:41:40 > 0:41:44- Ashes aren't the only human remains - floating in the river.

0:41:47 > 0:41:52- Pregnant women and young babies - are believed to be without sin.

0:41:52 > 0:41:56- Since they have no need - for purification by fire...

0:41:56 > 0:42:00- ..their corpses are released - straight into the river.

0:42:09 > 0:42:14- Yet, every morning, - Hindus gather to bathe in the river.

0:42:15 > 0:42:19- They are drawn by their faith - in the water's purity.

0:42:23 > 0:42:27- One of them - is Professor Bhadra Mishra.

0:42:28 > 0:42:33- When he was 14, in accordance - with family tradition...

0:42:33 > 0:42:35- ..he became a Hindu priest.

0:42:35 > 0:42:40- Professor Mishra - is also an hydraulic engineer.

0:42:42 > 0:42:44- The first question I asked him...

0:42:45 > 0:42:49- ..was how did he reconcile - his faith in the river's purity...

0:42:49 > 0:42:52- ..with his scientific knowledge?

0:42:52 > 0:42:55- It's like this - - the people who worship the Ganga...

0:42:56 > 0:43:00- ..in the same way that fish - cannot survive without water...

0:43:00 > 0:43:03- ..they cannot live - without the river.

0:43:03 > 0:43:06- I won't break with that tradition...

0:43:06 > 0:43:09- ..but I realize - that the river is polluted.

0:43:09 > 0:43:13- It's my duty to stop the pollution.

0:43:17 > 0:43:19- According to Professor Mishra...

0:43:19 > 0:43:24- ..the main problem lies - with the authorities' attitude.

0:43:25 > 0:43:27- This is the greatest problem.

0:43:27 > 0:43:33- 95% of the pollution happens because - in many parts of the river...

0:43:33 > 0:43:37- ..sewage and industrial chemicals - are released into the water.

0:43:41 > 0:43:47- Over 1m litres of sewage is released - into the river every second.

0:43:48 > 0:43:51- Shocked by the apathy - of the authorities...

0:43:52 > 0:43:56- ..Professor Mishra has opened - his own research laboratory...

0:43:56 > 0:43:58- ..next door to his temple.

0:43:58 > 0:44:02- Here, they test water samples - for fecal coliform...

0:44:02 > 0:44:05- ..bacteria which lives in sewage.

0:44:07 > 0:44:11- The bacteria can cause - all sorts of illnesses...

0:44:11 > 0:44:13- ..such as typhoid and hepatitis.

0:44:16 > 0:44:20- Tests shows that the levels - of fecal coliform in Varanasi...

0:44:20 > 0:44:27- ..are 160 times higher than - international guidelines permit.

0:44:33 > 0:44:36- The root of the problem - is poor town planning.

0:44:39 > 0:44:43- In Varanasi, the city's - electricity supply often fails.

0:44:43 > 0:44:46- Without it, - the sewage treatment works closes.

0:44:47 > 0:44:50- The sewage is then poured - straight into the river.

0:44:54 > 0:45:00- This is in addition to the corpses - and the rubbish evident all around.

0:45:03 > 0:45:08- The problem is so serious, ordinary - people can't find a solution...

0:45:08 > 0:45:13- ..but because of their love for - the river, they do what they can.

0:45:24 > 0:45:28- The paradox of the situation - strikes me once again.

0:45:29 > 0:45:34- According to the scriptures, - the river in Varanasi...

0:45:34 > 0:45:36- ..can purify souls.

0:45:36 > 0:45:40- Scientific research - and this disgusting sight...

0:45:40 > 0:45:43- ..prove that the water - isn't pure at all.

0:45:48 > 0:45:52- Does the Hindu faith - shield followers...

0:45:52 > 0:45:55- ..from the dangers they face?

0:45:58 > 0:46:01- According to Dr Mishra, - it's not as simple as that.

0:46:03 > 0:46:08- Today, if I tell the people - that the Ganga is polluted...

0:46:08 > 0:46:14- ..within seconds, they will reply, - "Don't say such a thing.

0:46:14 > 0:46:17- "You're insulting - the goddess Ganga."

0:46:17 > 0:46:21- If I show them where - the sewage flows into the river...

0:46:21 > 0:46:23- ..and say, "Look at this"...

0:46:23 > 0:46:27- ..they reply, "This is terrible.

0:46:27 > 0:46:31- "Sewage shouldn't be allowed - to enter the Ganga."

0:46:31 > 0:46:35- If we can harness the respect - and love for this river...

0:46:36 > 0:46:39- ..it could be a power - that can help us in so many ways.

0:46:46 > 0:46:49- If love can save this river, - there's still hope.

0:46:51 > 0:46:55- No other river - is loved as much as the Ganga.

0:46:59 > 0:47:03- Can 4,000 years of faith - in the purity of the water...

0:47:03 > 0:47:06- ..overcome the apathy - of the modern age?

0:47:10 > 0:47:15- Pollution is just one of the - problems that need to be solved.

0:47:16 > 0:47:18- If global warming continues...

0:47:19 > 0:47:22- ..the very future of the Ganga - will be under threat.

0:47:25 > 0:47:30- As the river flows from Varanasi - towards its delta in Bangladesh...

0:47:30 > 0:47:34- ..the effects of global warming - can be seen today...

0:47:34 > 0:47:38- ..in the floods experienced - in these areas.

0:47:40 > 0:47:44- In years to come, drought and not - floods will be the main problem.

0:47:44 > 0:47:48- Back in Gangotri - where I started my journey...

0:47:48 > 0:47:52- ..the Himalayan glaciers - are retreating.

0:47:52 > 0:47:57- Experts are adamant that - if the glaciers continue to melt...

0:47:57 > 0:48:02- ..the source of the Ganga - will disappear within 25 years.

0:48:03 > 0:48:08- It's a catastrophe which was - predicted in the Hindu scriptures.

0:48:09 > 0:48:11- According to one tradition...

0:48:11 > 0:48:15- ..a time will come when the Ganga - cannot wash away human sins.

0:48:18 > 0:48:21- Then, it will disappear - underground...

0:48:21 > 0:48:24- ..to safeguard its purity - until the next age.

0:48:24 > 0:48:30- That belief could well be realized - in today's India.

0:49:09 > 0:49:12- S4C subtitles by Simian 04

0:49:12 > 0:49:12- .